Clutch adjustment procedure, as transcribed from the video [with my notes added]: 1. Put your cycle on a stand. 2. Move the gear shift lever out of the way. 3. Loosen the clutch cable so the clutch lever has no tension. [1/2" and 9/16" wrenches] 4. Remove the clutch inspection cover. [T27 Torx] 5. Push the arm back towards the rear wheel. 6. Turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise until it stops, then one quarter turn clockwise and replace the nut. [flat head screwdriver] 7. Replace the clutch inspection cover. [7-9 ft/lbs] 8. Tighten the clutch cable. 9. Squeeze the clutch lever several times. 10. Check the clutch cable free-play at the cable housing. 11. Tighten the locking nut and replace the rubber boot. Cheers, Greg!
Do you turn the adjustment screw counter clockwise until it stops or just until you feel it releasing? And then a quarter turn clockwise. I know the manual says a quarter to half a turn. If I go to half a turn, then would I not be putting more separation between the plates? Or if that's the wrong terminology a quarter turn if plates are not too worn. Also, on the forum you say to back off the adjustment screw clockwise a quarter turn. Isn't that really loading the throwout bearing when you turn it clockwise and you're not really backing off?
@@dylandream2248 it's been too long since I worked on that bike to answer your question. All I can say is what's written was exactly my procedure on a real bike.
Clutch adjustment procedure, as transcribed from the video [with my notes added]:
1. Put your cycle on a stand.
2. Move the gear shift lever out of the way.
3. Loosen the clutch cable so the clutch lever has no tension. [1/2" and 9/16" wrenches]
4. Remove the clutch inspection cover. [T27 Torx]
5. Push the arm back towards the rear wheel.
6. Turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise until it stops, then one quarter turn clockwise and replace the nut. [flat head screwdriver]
7. Replace the clutch inspection cover. [7-9 ft/lbs]
8. Tighten the clutch cable.
9. Squeeze the clutch lever several times.
10. Check the clutch cable free-play at the cable housing.
11. Tighten the locking nut and replace the rubber boot.
Cheers, Greg!
Do you turn the adjustment screw counter clockwise until it stops or just until you feel it releasing? And then a quarter turn clockwise. I know the manual says a quarter to half a turn. If I go to half a turn, then would I not be putting more separation between the plates? Or if that's the wrong terminology a quarter turn if plates are not too worn. Also, on the forum you say to back off the adjustment screw clockwise a quarter turn. Isn't that really loading the throwout bearing when you turn it clockwise and you're not really backing off?
@@dylandream2248 it's been too long since I worked on that bike to answer your question. All I can say is what's written was exactly my procedure on a real bike.
No if you put it on a swingarm stand, yes if you leave it on the side stand.
Not bad but Jesus I've never been so bored man!
Thanks I"ll give it a go, looks easy enuff....
So is the purpose of this to make the clutch engagement looser or stiffer when pressing on the lever?
So where did you get that gopro mount on the oil cooler?
Yes it is the same on XB12 models.
does it work the same on a xb12s?
God add some music or somethinng