Glad we could help you out. Feel free to subscribe if you haven't already done so. We are thinking of doing a video on rebuilding a wet end. Would something like that be of interest to you? Thanks for watching.
thanks for the video, it helps to dismantle the pump. what if water gets inside the copper wires that surrond the shaft, if the the inside motor gets dry is the pump likely to run without issues? i got hold of a 2nd hand pump which runs hot and switches off after 2-3mins. i removed the top lid and found some rusty water and burnt smell. i wonder if I can save the pump or not.
The stator is the windings in the housing. The rotor is the thing you clamped in the vise, rotor because it rotates. Lube the daylights out of the through bolt threads with anti seize compound so you can get it apart next time.
My pump is really loud, so I assume that I need to replace the bearings inside the motor. I also need to get a bearing puller. Mine is a Waterway Executive 56. Where can I find those parts?
If you take the motor apart and look at the bearings, you should be able to find the bearing number on them, or you will have to measure them to figure out what size of bearings they are. You can google how to create the bearing number from measurements. You should be able to find a bearing puller at your local automotive supply store. As for the bearings, you can order them online or go to a local shop that carries bearings.
My 6hp pump impeller (2 speed) is not broken, but does have a hairline crack on the plastic stem that goes on the Stator steel. Does the impeller need to be replaced then?
I would have to see a picture, but if it has a crack and you already have it apart I would suggest replacing it. The last thing you want is for it to break after you have put it back in service. In my experience that always happens at the worst possible time.
I did this rebuild but the pump just clicks. I also have the flo error. Noticed it’s hard to spin the shaft from the backside also. The other motor spins freely with a flathead on the shaft.
My superflow motor old bearing was a 6203, but a new 6203 won't fit on. The shaft is clean. I swear both bearings read 6203. In fact I got four new bearings and all are too small for the rear shaft although they fit the front nicely. What to do? There was a noticeable difference in the size of the bearing inner races, I think .62" for the new and .635 for the old. Makes no sense to
A 6203 bearing should have a bore diameter of 17mm (.669 inches) so it should fit. Do you have a caliper that you can measure the shaft diameter? Is there any build-up on the shaft? It should be a tight fit where it will slip on to the first section of the shaft and then it needs to be pressed on or hammered on until it is seated properly.
Well done, nice pacing
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video. Thanks for sharing. Minor point- the part with the rotating shaft is the rotor and the housing has the stator. Thanks again!
Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching.
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Nicely done sir. Very clear directions and good demonstration of bearing puller. Thank you very much.
Glad we could help you out. Feel free to subscribe if you haven't already done so. We are thinking of doing a video on rebuilding a wet end. Would something like that be of interest to you? Thanks for watching.
Bless you for sharing this knowledge
My pleasure
Thank you. The video helped a bunch.
You're welcome!
Thanks for your clear guidance .
Regards
Peter
You are welcome!
Please tell me this motor run clockwise and anti clockwise
It should only run in one direction.
Good video, Thx.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
thanks for the video, it helps to dismantle the pump. what if water gets inside the copper wires that surrond the shaft, if the the inside motor gets dry is the pump likely to run without issues? i got hold of a 2nd hand pump which runs hot and switches off after 2-3mins. i removed the top lid and found some rusty water and burnt smell. i wonder if I can save the pump or not.
Sorry, I am hesitant to provide any advice on that one. A bit out of my comfort level. Good luck.
The stator is the windings in the housing. The rotor is the thing you clamped in the vise, rotor because it rotates. Lube the daylights out of the through bolt threads with anti seize compound so you can get it apart next time.
Thanks for the insight, great tip on the anti seize compound. Thanks for watching and commenting.
great walk through - might want to add that this is for a 56Y frame in the title (exact same as mine)
Thanks
Nice work!! Thank you
Thanks.
Any tips for when plastic impeller is siezed so tight thor cant move it?
You will have to grip the shaft with a pair of locking pliers. Then you can use more force to take the impeller off.
Great walk trough!
Thanks
My pump is really loud, so I assume that I need to replace the bearings inside the motor. I also need to get a bearing puller. Mine is a Waterway Executive 56. Where can I find those parts?
If you take the motor apart and look at the bearings, you should be able to find the bearing number on them, or you will have to measure them to figure out what size of bearings they are. You can google how to create the bearing number from measurements. You should be able to find a bearing puller at your local automotive supply store. As for the bearings, you can order them online or go to a local shop that carries bearings.
If the rotor has rust, do you add grease to it or just clean it before assembly?
Definitely clean it off. I don't think the grease will hurt, but it isn't necessary.
Does the hot tub need to be drained
Nope, just close off the gate valves and you should be good.
My 6hp pump impeller (2 speed) is not broken, but does have a hairline crack on the plastic stem that goes on the Stator steel. Does the impeller need to be replaced then?
I would have to see a picture, but if it has a crack and you already have it apart I would suggest replacing it. The last thing you want is for it to break after you have put it back in service. In my experience that always happens at the worst possible time.
@@gtrsquared919 Thanks, I bought a new one anyway, they're not very expensive and while its apart why not replace it. TY.
I did this rebuild but the pump just clicks. I also have the flo error. Noticed it’s hard to spin the shaft from the backside also. The other motor spins freely with a flathead on the shaft.
Does the shaft spin easily on the pump you rebuilt?
@@gtrsquared919 no when I put the flat head on the back it spins, but not easily like the other motor.
Sounds like something is not seated properly or a bearing was damaged.
Did you replace both bearings?
@@gtrsquared919 yup
My superflow motor old bearing was a 6203, but a new 6203 won't fit on. The shaft is clean. I swear both bearings read 6203. In fact I got four new bearings and all are too small for the rear shaft although they fit the front nicely. What to do? There was a noticeable difference in the size of the bearing inner races, I think .62" for the new and .635 for the old. Makes no sense to
A 6203 bearing should have a bore diameter of 17mm (.669 inches) so it should fit. Do you have a caliper that you can measure the shaft diameter? Is there any build-up on the shaft? It should be a tight fit where it will slip on to the first section of the shaft and then it needs to be pressed on or hammered on until it is seated properly.
O
Mount that vice!
You can probably tell it doesn't get used often. Thanks for watching.
My shaft broke off, so I guess I'll be buying a new pump! 😵
Unfortunately if the leak has been going on for some time the shaft can corrode through.