Good for you managing that purple number 9. And interesting to hear you say its unnecessarily dangerous - because its what everyone else i've talked to about this one thought as well. For me, that was the end of the night, because I ruptured my ACL from a fall in that route because the fall resulting from committing to the "intended" beta was so uncontrollable that it didnt end well for me. As far as I am aware, the boulder was taken down a few days after the event, because multiple people injured themselves on that one.
Hilarious that even Natalia Grossman was saying in one of her interviews that she wanted the boulders at the world cups to stop trending so fiercley from parkour and no-tex back to outdoor style of climbing and then the routesetters come together to do this event XD. Thanks for showcasing the boulders for us Antsy!
Great climbing! This is the first time I've watched you climb, and I must say: it's so much fun. You can be proud of how you are overcoming scary parts. I go climbing three times a week but only started six months ago. So, I'm not the best girl to judge, but my head usually holds me back. Far from body position and body awareness, I feel that the most significant part of climbing is the "head game." And yes, please show more indoor bouldering stuff!
the first boulder was apparently set by nikken. you might know him from other climbing youtube videos. the audio is so quiet in this video. can hardly understand you. you might have to normalize the audio
Dude that first boulder is.. GNARLY. =D like, they invented the damn word for this specific boulder.. PS: on 2nd thought, most of the boulders look scary AF lulz. Badass! xD
I mean the moves and shapes are more interesting then ever but personally I hate dual/no tex. Or to be more precise I don't like how they are used. Using the slippery surface to limit the space of positions is what makes them good and gives routesetters more freedom for interesting climbs. But using the no tex part as holds/footsteps is for me at least just annoying. Nobody is happy outside if the hold looses the grip, or at least i have never seen somebody say: "yeah, when I climbed it in the past it had this super annoying grip, but nowadays I need to focus everything on not slipping and i love it when I hurt my shin bone after slipping"😅, or "wow, this gym got so much better since the hold got old, nobody brushes the holds and every round it's about how not to dryfire or slip instead". Sry, about my small rant. In the end it is just my opinion. And before somebody says just get gud: I don't hate them because I can't do them. I just don't have that much fun with them.
I mean for tiny footholds that are hard to stand on, we are okay with the risk of slipping, we hurt our shins when we slip on them, and while climbing we try to focus on not slipping and really trusting our feet on them. Why would dual texture be different?
@@colemantrebor6574 I think there are still differences. For one, it's a difference if it's a small foothold I slip of or a big volume/ big hold where my shin has a higher probability to be hit when falling. It's also a difference how one slips. If i slip from a no tex hold my shoe actually accelerates over the hold, while it will either pop of a small hold or smear over a volume with grip creating a at least bit more controlled fall. I will also never feel totally in control on no tex parts as you can always slip while small footholds are more about hitting them the right way and afterwards they feel secure (for me at least). And I am also just not the biggest fan of small slippery footholds with less then 90 degrees (though I love them with grip or more degrees). But I can totally understand your view and if you find it the same. It's just a difference for me mentally. Like I already said: It's just my opinion and it was asked what our opinion about the newer styles and that was my opinion.
Most of those boulders look quite dangerous and not really fun. The first one is at least interesting because it teaches you about positioning since you have no texture anywhere, and not just about doing a sketchy dyno or footswap on dual text for no reason in the middle of a boulder. Nice video!
I was watching a video of Magnus Midtbø climbing in Japan and he stated that all the Japanese gym boulders were frictionless, so yes modern boulder style indeed. Especially as climbing becomes more competitive with the Olympics.
Yeah. But at the same time I don’t think competition trends, especially dangerous ones, should be that much reflected in regular gym. People go there after work to have fun and train, so at least they should be well adapted for average climbers
@@antsypantsy that’s understandable, what’s considered an average climber could be more of a cultural interpretation though. I agree that if climbing was seen as too hard for most beginners, it would probably still be a niche sport. From what I heard, Japanese gyms are very specialized towards just climbing, while American gyms I attend are usually very general (weight room, cafe area, yoga, etc), but large enough for climbing different styles. While some smaller but harder climbing gyms in my area tend to be primarily for climbing too. There’s probably a relationship between specialization and the difficulty/dangerousness of a climbing gym, or between the generality of a gym and its recreational atmosphere. Whether it’s good or bad will mostly depend on what you’re looking for as a climber or what type of community a gym owner is hoping to build whether for cultural or financial reasons.
Good for you managing that purple number 9. And interesting to hear you say its unnecessarily dangerous - because its what everyone else i've talked to about this one thought as well. For me, that was the end of the night, because I ruptured my ACL from a fall in that route because the fall resulting from committing to the "intended" beta was so uncontrollable that it didnt end well for me. As far as I am aware, the boulder was taken down a few days after the event, because multiple people injured themselves on that one.
Hilarious that even Natalia Grossman was saying in one of her interviews that she wanted the boulders at the world cups to stop trending so fiercley from parkour and no-tex back to outdoor style of climbing and then the routesetters come together to do this event XD. Thanks for showcasing the boulders for us Antsy!
Do you remember where she talked about it? Would like to hear!
Found it! It was on The Struggle Climbing Show
Great climbing! This is the first time I've watched you climb, and I must say: it's so much fun. You can be proud of how you are overcoming scary parts.
I go climbing three times a week but only started six months ago. So, I'm not the best girl to judge, but my head usually holds me back. Far from body position and body awareness, I feel that the most significant part of climbing is the "head game." And yes, please show more indoor bouldering stuff!
Thank you! Will do!
I am loving your style and your honest comments. ❤
"this is so far, I don't want" 😂 relatable
wow trusting that no texture volume would be my nightmare lol Great video!
Love this type of content! Amazing video! And great job on those climbs, they look so scary
Thanks!
Hi mom, i'm in this video :)
Element is indeed the best gym in munich.
I love this video style, like more of it
Really nice seeing you tackle these problems, gonna try some tomorrow at Element :)
Thanks and have fun )
"ё маё" 🤣
Another excellent video 😊
😋
the first boulder was apparently set by nikken. you might know him from other climbing youtube videos.
the audio is so quiet in this video. can hardly understand you. you might have to normalize the audio
Eh, its because of noise reduction I think. Its so loud in the gym 😢
whoah that's sick! he's an awesome setter
Wow. Very strong 😊
На "ёмаё тяжко" я с перепугу вскрикнула даже ахааах
Dude that first boulder is.. GNARLY. =D
like, they invented the damn word for this specific boulder..
PS: on 2nd thought, most of the boulders look scary AF lulz. Badass! xD
i very much dislake no friction holds
Ypu ever stepped on polished granite
I need some new OCUN shoes. Which model is this and how do they compare to the bullit? 😏
they not in production yet, but bullit doesn't fits me, so I cant recommend, we proly have different foot types
@@antsypantsy thanks for the feedback! Yes narrow shoes don't fit my shape, so i have to try Something else 🫣
Fury should be fine for u i think 🤔
First, been loving the content!
Нужно было заставить художника там полазить по своим картинкам, может он бы решил использовать какую ни будь более цепкую краску :)
im only a 6a climber so i will never touch boulders like this XD but i dont like slippery sketchy shit.
Валя, ты очень крутая! Сделай видео про татухи.
Тут трэба пакiнуць камент на роднай мове ;)
I mean the moves and shapes are more interesting then ever but personally I hate dual/no tex. Or to be more precise I don't like how they are used.
Using the slippery surface to limit the space of positions is what makes them good and gives routesetters more freedom for interesting climbs. But using the no tex part as holds/footsteps is for me at least just annoying.
Nobody is happy outside if the hold looses the grip, or at least i have never seen somebody say: "yeah, when I climbed it in the past it had this super annoying grip, but nowadays I need to focus everything on not slipping and i love it when I hurt my shin bone after slipping"😅, or "wow, this gym got so much better since the hold got old, nobody brushes the holds and every round it's about how not to dryfire or slip instead".
Sry, about my small rant. In the end it is just my opinion. And before somebody says just get gud: I don't hate them because I can't do them. I just don't have that much fun with them.
I mean for tiny footholds that are hard to stand on, we are okay with the risk of slipping, we hurt our shins when we slip on them, and while climbing we try to focus on not slipping and really trusting our feet on them. Why would dual texture be different?
@@colemantrebor6574 I think there are still differences. For one, it's a difference if it's a small foothold I slip of or a big volume/ big hold where my shin has a higher probability to be hit when falling. It's also a difference how one slips. If i slip from a no tex hold my shoe actually accelerates over the hold, while it will either pop of a small hold or smear over a volume with grip creating a at least bit more controlled fall.
I will also never feel totally in control on no tex parts as you can always slip while small footholds are more about hitting them the right way and afterwards they feel secure (for me at least).
And I am also just not the biggest fan of small slippery footholds with less then 90 degrees (though I love them with grip or more degrees).
But I can totally understand your view and if you find it the same. It's just a difference for me mentally. Like I already said: It's just my opinion and it was asked what our opinion about the newer styles and that was my opinion.
Yeah, no-tex is like climbing outside when it rains "because the slippery holds are a challenge and it's something new"
Like... nah man
Most of those boulders look quite dangerous and not really fun. The first one is at least interesting because it teaches you about positioning since you have no texture anywhere, and not just about doing a sketchy dyno or footswap on dual text for no reason in the middle of a boulder. Nice video!
Thanks, and yeah, I agree
Так чего стесняться то родного языка ,ругайся на русском. Прекрасна как буд-то время на тебя не действует
I was watching a video of Magnus Midtbø climbing in Japan and he stated that all the Japanese gym boulders were frictionless, so yes modern boulder style indeed. Especially as climbing becomes more competitive with the Olympics.
Yeah. But at the same time I don’t think competition trends, especially dangerous ones, should be that much reflected in regular gym. People go there after work to have fun and train, so at least they should be well adapted for average climbers
@@antsypantsy that’s understandable, what’s considered an average climber could be more of a cultural interpretation though. I agree that if climbing was seen as too hard for most beginners, it would probably still be a niche sport.
From what I heard, Japanese gyms are very specialized towards just climbing, while American gyms I attend are usually very general (weight room, cafe area, yoga, etc), but large enough for climbing different styles. While some smaller but harder climbing gyms in my area tend to be primarily for climbing too.
There’s probably a relationship between specialization and the difficulty/dangerousness of a climbing gym, or between the generality of a gym and its recreational atmosphere.
Whether it’s good or bad will mostly depend on what you’re looking for as a climber or what type of community a gym owner is hoping to build whether for cultural or financial reasons.