I have this same noise too. 2012 Tundra, 5.7L V8 with 221,000 miles. It's been sitting at a shop for almost a week now, undiagnosed. Thank god for TH-cam.
It's a big job to replace the tensioners. Let me know what it costs if they determine it is the tensioners. I replaced all 4 chains, 4 tensioners and 4 guides. It was about 300 for those parts. The labor will be 10 to 15 hours i bet.
Hi John, here is the repair video. This might give them a heads up on what might be causing the noise and how to fix it. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
@@NHBackcountryGuide cool. I'm curious to see what a dealer gets vs an independent repair shop. Its a time consuming repair. I bet some shops won't even do it.
2nd comment...sorry. As I said already, its the primary chain tensioner on the drivers side. When the oil is cold the tensioner keeps dropping pressure which is letting the chain slap down at the crank. The VVT will try to compensate and by the time it does, the tensioner builds pressure again...It will do this on and off about 20 times until the engine warms up enough and the tensioner pressure stays and it wont return all day unless the engine oil is able to cool a lot.
Thanks for posting this video, I have 2010 tundra 5.7 with 174,000 miles and my truck makes the same noise . Took it to Toyota dealer for a diagnostic. Was told it was a piston slap. I disagreed with the diagnostic. So they currently have a lead tech rechecking my vehicle. Will post what there findings are.
I doubt very much it's piston noise. Does it go away when it warms up? All these 5.7’s make some amount of valvetrain noise from the tappet clearances but I have never heard any real piston slap noise from mine. They all sound the same. My engine made progressively more tappet noise as it got older. As for the timing chain noise, mine made noise mostly when it was cold for the first 10 minutes. However, eventually, it made noise just about all the time. In fact, I got worried the chain was so loose, it would eventually derail or double up and jam. If it does, your screwed because this is an interference engine for sure. In the end, what I found was both lower tensioners were sticking and just not extending out as they should have once the engine applied oil pressure to them. One thing you may notice in the video is the sudden change in rpm and chain noise. I'm speculating the VVT solenoids are being activated by the ECU during warmup for various reasons as they should be and when they open/close, they can cause a sudden drop in oil pressure OR a sudden increase in oil pressure depending on whether they are feeding the phasers with pressurized oil or allowing the phaser to drain off and return the cam to the "straight up" position. (If you notice, the phasers have a return spring on them that brings them back to “neutral” if oil pressure is released by one of the VVT solenoids switching to the “drain” mode) It makes some sense that if the sticking plunger on the tensioner suddenly got a quick burst of pressure from one of the solenoids switching the bleed off one of the phasers, it might be just enough additional pressure to free and push the plunger on the tensioner out and tighten the chain. Again, watch the video and notice that rpm suddenly changes and the noise vanishes for a while. That can’t be just a coincidence every time it happens because it happens almost every time the RPM change quickly. Just a theory on my part after inspecting all the parts I pulled out of mine a few weeks ago. Both my lower tensioners were very “sticky” and had difficulty fully extending when I pulled them out. I'm still trying to put a video together on that job and what I found while doing it. Stay tuned for that.
Its the primary chain tensioner on the driver side. Its not a massive common problem, but enough of one. I just replaced mine 2 months ago after procrastinating about a year. Its a hefty job but driveway doable if you have much higher than average mechanical ability. I replaced all 4 tensioners, primary and secondary chains along with all new guides and rails, because I have 200K on the engine. You will need to pull the plugs, valve covers, water pump, all plumbing, air pump tubes, all accessories (AC, P/S, alt) and let them hang, remove the oil filter housing and cooler, front crank, front timing chain cover, radiator, fan, shroud....Then you can get to the chains and tensioners. Gotta set all primary and secondary marks... There are a lot of 0-rings, and a few gaskets and you will need some FIPG from Toyota along with new coolant (Zerex from Napa is the same as Toyota pink/red)....Its a kick in the ass, a knowledgeable friend would be a great help. If you are familiar, its a 2 day job....if not, expect 3 days. BTW, I ordered all TOYOTA parts from online sources....I compared my 200K chains to the new ones...zero stretch. Good luck
@@chapin615 I have them all. Truth be told, I only had to replace the bad tensioner but with 200K, I replaced everything. A side note, the 200K chains were the exact length of the brand new Toyota chains.
I have a 2015 Tundra bought new, now have 321,000 miles on it started doing the exact same thing about a month ago runs fine for the first minute then starts ticking from the driver side and somewhat of a rumble like a diesel comes and goes and then right at the 6-minute mark it quits and it's fine all day I can go to the lake park the truck leave it there for 6 hours startup doesn't do it it's only in the mornings
This is precisely the noise I have had on my 2016, 5.7 tundra for a few months now. It comes & goes but nothing catastrophic has happened. I just want ti get through winter before I tackle it...
I ran mine with this noise for quite some time. 6 months at least. You should be fine because the chain stays tight enough even if the tensioners are not working great. The tensioner ratchets out, so it should be tight enough for now. Rest up.... that job is time consuming!
I’m a little late to the part here but try amsoil engine flush. Works like a champ. I saw a few comments mentioning piston slap and this is not it. Piston slap will make it sound more like a diesel than anything. Plus once it’s warm it usually goes away
Any updates?? I have seen several other videos where the tensioner was the culprit as ThatGeniusMind stated. Maybe it won't hurt to run seafoam through the oil. Maybe a port in the tensioner is clogged. Seafoam may clear it before you have to pull the timing cover and do all that work.
I ran the seafoam through the oil for 500 miles then changed the oil. Still behaves the same. Tomorrow i am going to pull it apart in my shop. I have all 4 chains, 4 slides, 4 tensioners, 2 sprockets, a new water pump, new oil pump kit, new radiator hoses and new radiator, all the gaskets , etc. I don't plan on changing the VVT units on the cams (400 bucks each!) because i don't have any vvt codes on the ECU so they should be ok. I could probably get away with just changing the 1 tensioner on the drivers side for the long chain but since i will have it all apart, i will replace it all. I plan to buy a new tundra once they work all the kinks out of the new model. My boy will have his license by them so he can drive this one with all new parts in it. Hopefully that makes it reasonably reliable for him. I'm also doing both rear axle bearings, backing plates, all hardware, new rotors, calipers and pads. I have a complete update kit from Toyota that includes the new style backing plates that DON'T rub when you turn slowly. I also have all front brakes and rotors to do as well. I'm too old to bother with changing parts ad hoc. I would rather do them all at once and be good for another 10 years than replace stuff every year to spread out the cost. If I'm doing all the work for free, I'm fine buying all new parts for all these systems that are 10 years old. I will probably video the work and post it. I haven't seen anything posted on yt thats super detailed on this topic so maybe i can create it.
@@danmccarthy206 oh man that sounds like lots of work! But also sounds like a great video. I really hope you record and post it. I'd for sure appreciate it. I have a sequoia with the 5.7 engine in and so far so good but I want to be aware of some potential issues. I've done similar repairs on my ram 5.7 hemi but of course every engine is different and I love watching these repairs. I'm gonna subscribe in anticipation. Good luck
@@ryanv7195 here is the video. No need to make fun of the hair. It was early.... th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html In the end, both lower tensioners were varnished up and the plungers were sticking. I took those bad boys and cut them up with a Whizzer to look inside. I expected to see a bunch of coked-up oil but the oil was fine, no coke, no metal, no nothing.... just sticky plungers from varnished oil and a very very slight wear mark on one of the plungers. That pisses me off because I have changed the oil at the recommended service intervals (on the speedo) and used Valvoline full syn every time. In the video you can see the varnish on the internals and, to me, it looks pretty normal for this engine with 170k on it but I'm not a mechanic and I don't see these engines every day so WTF do I know. This opens up a whole new can of worms for the question " What's the best oil to use?. I think each case is different and it depends on the engine, load, etc. I had an expert Porsche mechanic (Gerry Woods) tell me that he rebuilt a 3.0L boxer engine and it was loaded with varnish despite the owner religiously using the top grade oils at that time (1980's for all you young fuckers out there) and what he determined was, in this case, the engine was air-cooled (not water-cooled) and it presented a whole different set of requirements than what that oil was designed to do for the "general automotive market". So, now, I run Mercedes oil and filters in my bi-turbo V6 as recommended by the manufacturer. MB designs that oil for the engine AND Turbo it comes with. No doubt, there are good oils out there, I just don't want to wait 100k miles to see if I chose the right one! BTW- the shitty oil was Valvoline and that company did more advertising than McDonalds back in the 80's so just because you see it on TV, doesn't necessarily mean it's the best.
@@danmccarthy206 Castrol is same shitty as valvoline tested myself.. the oil I happy with is a surprisingly Mobil 1 from Costco for engines over 75k . Using it for 150k on Santa Fe 2.0 Turbo, which I bought new.. 3k intervals …recently partly disassembled engine and it all it perfect shape.. absolutely clean… for notorious Hyundai GDI engine great results, whereas other engines of this type die at around just 75k
Thanks for posting this video.. I have a 2010, thank goodness I don't have this problem. It's always good to have videos like this if the problem should arise.. ✌️
I have been working on replacing the chains and tensioners over the last few days. Definetly more work and more difficult than I anticipated. I have taken some video and pics of various parts of the job and I will assemble a video soon to show some tips on doing the job. In my case, I think the hydraulic tensioners were both gummed up and wouldn't extend under oil pressure. Oddly enough, the passenger side chain seemed very loose and the lower sprocket showed some wear even though all the noise was coming from the driver side. Lots of tips on doing the job, but I wouldn't recommend doing it at home unless you are pretty experienced and have a decent set of tools. More to come.
I have the same thing on my 2014 tundra, 123k miles. cold start, intermittent, non-rhythmic clacking, then goes away when engine is fully warmed up. took it to Toyota dealership and they recommended replacing the timing chains, tensioners and the cam vvt’s. 9 freaking thousand dollars. $9,000!! i had such high hopes for my tundra. all the guys bragging about their 300k mile tundras. As soon as i pay it off and my 3 year extended warranty ends, this shit comes out of nowhere. Now i gotta figure out how to unload it. Word to the wise. If your tundra starts doing this, dont take it to a Toyota dealership. The diagnosis will end up on Carfax
The dealers are thieves. Find a local Toyota mechanic who can do the job for a fair price. It's a very involved job and time-consuming. I would replace the 4 chains, 4 tensioners, and 4 guides along with the 2 bottom sprockets. You can buy a kit from Mellings or Asin with all these parts in it for $300. (Instead of 2k from Toyota) The 4 VVT sprockets are most likely fine and won't need to be replaced unless the teeth are worn or they have an internal failure. You will need gaskets for valve covers and maybe a new water pump since it's easy to replace while it's all apart. You should be able to get it done for $2000-$3000 if you can find the right mechanic. I did mine last year at 170k miles, and it's still quiet at 197k. Don't give up on it. The new Tundra is unproven, so I wouldn't jump into one of those. All the other vendors have problems with their trucks as well. Stay with the devil that you know.
Dan, thanks so much for that reply. I had a feeling the price was outrageous. I did watch an hour long sort of step by step on a 5.7 tundra by a guy named Sergay, whole timing kit replacement and it does look like a very extensive job taking out the radiator and all the accessories that are mounted to the timing cover, alternator, water pump, etc. but yes, 9k seemed excessive and we all know how shocking the price of used trucks are right now. So i appreciate the encouragement and the cost estimates you provided that i can use as a guide. Thanks again, Dan!
@@danmccarthy206 Dan- after you put on the new tensioners, chains, guards, etc…did you turn the engine using the crank pulley? If so, did you notice the tensioners on bank 1 stay still while the tensioner on bank 2 actually extends and retracts?
@@Twim82 I did turn the crank pulley with a bar and socket slowly after everything was installed to verify there was no interference. I didn't notice if either tensioner showed slack when I spun it but without oil pressure, I would expect slack on either side or both banks because the cams are both "spring loaded" (valve springs) and depending on where they are in the cycle, you may get forward or backward force on the longer chain because those cams somtimes jerk backward because of the valve spring force on the lobes. Until you have oil pressure, you can't really make any assessment on the chain tension. As long as the installation pin is pulled out, you should have enough tension on the chain to prevent it from jumping teeth. Once the oil pressure comes up, they will tighten properly.... As long as everything is installed properly. Verify all the marks are where they should be and slowly turn the crank to verify you don't have any collisions. If the timing isn't right, you can definitely have a collision.
timing chain tensioner works using oil pressure coming in from a small orifice on its back, best to stick to oem oil, I ve noticed Mobil1 seems to not pressurize the tensioner properly, getting rid of Mobil 1 quieted things down, btw oem oil is made by Mobil but Toyota specifies their own additive package
Just changed chain and tensioner. Truck still did it. Put sea foam in motor stopped it. Old tensioner was fine but tarnish keep it from moving getting stuck on tarnish of shaft of tentioner.
Same noise on same side for 75,000 miles now and about 3 years. Local dealership doesn't know and I'm not tearing apart a motor to guess but I do believe its a timing chain tensioner issue. Hasn't really changed much over time.
Sounds typical with these 5.7L V8. Toyota needs to get a TSB and fix this. It won't be good for their image. But also owners need to publish this in social media to get the momentum going...... It's a shame the owner have to fix Yoda failure
I don't hold Toyota responsible for the problem. I have 175k on the truck so it would be a little much to ask them to flag it as a problem for the 5.7 V8's. The chains were all pretty much perfect, the slides were barely worn, the sprockets were pretty good too. Just the hydraulic tensioners were bad. One in particular (the passenger side i think... have to double check). I changed the oil every 5500 or 7500? as the maintenance light comes on and did the filter as well. OEM toyota filters and Valvoline 0-20 full synthetic oil every time like clockwork. I was actually surprised the chains were in such good condition. I'm not sure what you could do to prevent it. Maybe run an engine cleaner like Seafoam or one of the Lucas products once in a while? There are two things i noticed about the old tensioners. They had thick, varnished old oil in them and one of them showed a spot on the plunger where it was really polished like something was rubbing against it in a certain area. I will show this on a video as soon as i get all my footage sorted out.
@@danmccarthy206 Thanks Dan for chiming in. From your description it sounds like a mechanical problem on the part (tensioner). That's why I still think a faulty part was built in by the manufacturer, or this part is not being properly lubricated, when using NON-TOYOTA synthetic oil. Now I have two more follow up questions: Is this issue also coming up with the Land Cruiser? As I believe, Tundra/Sequoia/LandCruiser all share the same 5.7L V8 engine. I haven't hear a report of this issue on the LC. just wondering if this is just maintenance issue with the grade of oil. The Reason why I noticed the engine noise on my 2016 Sequoia LTD, is when you run the synthetic bulk oil from Toyota dealer (what you can't get at their part department), you the engine is pretty quite. I've been using Mobile1 Synthetic as well a OEM filters, FROM DAY ONE and I can hear a similar noise AT COLD START ONLY and as soon as the engine warms up, the noise goes away, what behavior I don't observe when running the Toyota synthetic bulk oil I get from the dealership servicing my car. FYI: I've observed a similar noise on my 16 Sequoia (now with 23000 miles on it) as soon as I finished my first 4 free oil change, that came with the new car purchase. Since then I've been doing my oil change my self with Mobile1. I'm considering going back to the Toyota Synthetic oil they sell at their part department, as I tried it last on my last oil change and It took down the noise level at code start considerably. Also I'm planning to keep my ride for as long as it'll drivable, that's why I'll like to correct this sooner than later, hoping not to end up with this very same issue you're describing in your video. Thanks for your inputs/feedback.
This. And cam tower leaks etc. Will become more prevalent as this generation Tundra ages. I believe this is one of the reasons Toyota retired the 5.7L motor.
They retired it due to government emissions. That's why they did what ford did. 3.5 twin turbo. V8s only get retired because of emissions. That's why chevy and fiat are retiring theirs
this needs to be a recall, thats exactly what my truck does, also i pull the serpentine belt off to see if was ac compressor or alternator, how does a recall starts who we need to call?
I doubt Toyota would recall this problem because it's related to vanishing which means poor maintenance in thier eyes. Mine started making noise at 170k miles. It's had a pretty long life so they won't call it a defect. You can probably solve the problem with some oil flush products. I just flushed mine today with ATS 505 CRO oil treatment. It seems very strong unlike any other products I have seen. It's not cheap but I would try a few flushes with that product to see if it might resolve the vanishing issue. I have already fixed the hardware but I figured the flush might help loosen carbon on the rings and keep them from sticking to the ring lands. It may also remove other varnish so what the hell...he'll.... I'll give it a try.
These problems happen all over the place and should damage Toyota’s reputation accordingly. Hell they recommend 10k intervals for oil changes, yet claim this is caused by bad oil. Clearly bs
We should sue toyota in a class action suit. There is this same problem all over youtube. Lol. Countless videos. I wouldn't buy another Toyota again since I'm having to deal with this engineering/design flaw
Add CRO 505 oil treatment / flush only replace oil filter and new oil also get the 2 pack CRO 505 gas treatment 60$ for both it will free up the carbon and quite it down is timing chain tensioner this will work, also on cold start try to see if you turn A/C on n off if it goes away n stops or put in Neutral could be belt tensioner if you take off serpentine belt and see if you can hear , this is a recall and they have not dealt with it stand up cause i can say that specific additives read directions and 1/2 quart oil more specs are wrong from Toyota and I can tell you it’s Timing Chain tensioner clatter on this Toyota motor will run forever but sounds ratty
I tried running 1 flush of CRO 505 through the engine, but it didn't free up the tensioner. I would do the flush 2 or 3 times every 500 miles (as well as the oil changes) and see if it resolves the problem. It's certainly worth a try before you take it all apart.
@@josethomas1054the hydraulic chain tensioners were bad. I replaced all 4 timing chains, 4 tensioners, 4 guides. The parts were about $325 or so. It was a lot of work to repair.
@danmccarthy206 truck is a the collision center right now. Yea, go figure. Havent owned the truck 10 days and this idiot hit me on the highway. So I'll get it back in 2 more weeks. It'll be a month. Be this is Southern CA
With the VVT and tensioners controlled by oil pressure, I wonder how much oil circulates through these systems when the temps are below 20 Deg F, let alone when it's 20 or 30 deg F below zero. Just put a quart of oil in the freezer, with a thermometer, and see how thick the oil is. My 5.7 runs much better after a good 300 mile road trip. That might be the best help, every few months, to keep the tensioners clean.
The way the tensioner system is designed does not allow for any "new" oil to routinely circulate through the tensioner to "flush" the oil through. It's a dead-end system and the only oil that passes through it is the oil that leaks past the plunger and that amount is very small. This is how old, dirty, varnished oil builds up in the tensioner and eventually causes it to stick tr totally seize in place.
I ran seafoam and an oil cleaner though it but it didn't remove enough varnish to fix it but if you flush it 3 or 4 times, I bet it would dissolve enough of the varnish on the tensioners to free them up in most cases. I would definetly flush it several time before spending all that money to replace the hardware. I bet in 90% of the cases it would fix it.
@@cjm5161 I ran half a bottle through mine on a 2600 mile trip and then the other half right after and still have the driver side top tensioner noise intermittent. Pissing me off. I am considering trying to pb blast the tensioner through the oil fill port.
My dealership just quoted me 3-4 hundred for parts and labor for both tensioners to be replaced. chain kit is a big expense, but thats a lifetime part so ????
I have a 2010 With 250,000 miles that’s making this same noise... I look forward to the video on how to fix it. A list of parts and whatnot it took to fix it would also be great! Thanks for the info.
@@goober24787 This should give you a ballpark idea of what it takes to fix the chain. It's not a step by step but it should help answer some questions before you tackle the job. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you have done similar work before. It was a bitch to get it all apart. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
I drove mine for quite a while. Probably 6 months before I fixed it. The dealer in my area said about 2-4k to fix it. I would look for a good local Toyota mechanic to fix it for less.
My started this at 75,000 miles. Have close to 150,000 now. Hasn't changed much Goes away when engine warm. I use mobile 1 0-20w oil with 5000 mile change intervals Miles.
I have 2012 tundra. From day 1 when I bought. Makes this stupid sound got worse and worse but doesn't shake. The same noise the. My buddy took off the front and said it can be the man I forgot the name of the part but they look like door wedges by the timing chain. There are three of them. I never changed it because I'm lazy as fuck. The noise at 260k miles is the same as yours. It got louder and louder. I believe it will start shaking soon. Tensioners that's what they are called
Mr McCarthy did the noise start of at a minimum and increaes over time and when mine does that i hear it better behind drivers tire and around the upper control arm I took it to toyota today and they said I need 12k engine replacement please other info would be helpful thanks...Mike
My noise was mostly around the drivers side tire well area like yours. I can't tell you if it's the same exact issue, but if it runs well, it might be. I doubt it needs a new engine. Get a second opinion from another dealer or a good local Toyota mechanic. The 5.7 engines are pretty durable and they seldom just fail and require replacement.
The noise got progressively louder over time. You can hear it better near the driver side wheel well. You probably need the timing chain (or at least tensioners) replaced. I replaced mine and now its fine. I put 20k miles since i replaced them and its still perfect.
So my 2011 tundra just started doing this as well. Same exact thing for me. Starts and stops with no rhyme or reason. I do notice that it does completely stop after the engine is good and warm. Did you find out exactly what it was?
Yes, it was the hydraulic chain tensioners on the driver's side. I replaced all of the timing hardware last year and it's been fine ever since. I have 205k miles on it now. See the repair here. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4D6xRUhsFauvJpG9
@@amitsomnath8737 I spent about 500 replacing all the timing chain components myself. A dealer would probably charge 3 to 4k to do this work using Toyota parts. It's a lot of labor!
I have the exact noise on my 200xxxkm 2015 5.7 maybe mine lil less but it comes and goes. I got it checked at the dealership, he said it might possibly the water pump, but am sure it's not the water pump, how do I make sure it's the time chain? And do I have to change the whole thing or just tensioner? Thank you for your video!!
The water pump would make noise all the time, not just once in a while. There is also a fixed idler pulley on the serpentine belt. That could be making some noise too but it would be constant. Its difficult to isolate the noise but if it happens when cold and goes away after a few minutes, its probably the tensioner. Mine made intermittent noise but always when cold. There are also 4 VVT sprockets on the cams. Those can make noise as well. It probably has to come apart to really determine root cause. If the chains are in good shape, you could just replace the tensioners. I did everything because i never want to take it apart again. I did not replace the VVT's. They are 400 bucks each!
I really hate to tell you this but it will do it still even once fixed. i spent over $2.5k on genuine oem toyota parts, even changed all 4 phasers. job took me 5-6 days, now it just does it on start up til warm, then goes away after driving, whereas before it did the opposite lol. annoying but reliable. makes no since, oh well. wish i would have video'd it as it was one heckuva job. i have 3 of these 2nd gens.
That job sucks. I just did it over Christmas break. However, my truck is silent now. I did take some video and I will post it soon. I did all 4 chains, 2 sprockets , 4 slides and 4 tensioners. I didn't change the phasers because they are 400 bucks each and I didn't think they were making the noise. Not sure what might be causing your noise. It seems like those are all the parts that could possibly make any noise. Maybe you have some excessive valve clearance on a few of the valves? Also, I'm glad I'm not the only one who burned up 5 days doing it! Every little part on that engine was a bitch to get off. You can't see anything, the bolts are really difficult to reach. I won't do that job again.
@@danmccarthy206 Wow, have yet to run across a bank 2 primary chain tensioner go bad. Regardless, there is no way I would go that far into a motor with 100K+ miles not not replace it all.
Correct, drivers side, primary chain tensioner. Common issue, just did my own. I hate to see all this other bad advice in here, guy already has a hell of a job in front of him, bad advice wont help that at all.
Be smart and give the 4.6 a few years to see how it holds up before you buy one. There are a whole slew of fit and finish issues and wastegate issues on the new turbos. Do you want to see your cab taken off the frame at the dealership because that's the only way to repair turbos? F that. I'm sure there will be other issue that come up over time. Why be a Guinea pig for Toyota. Besides, the new truck looks horrible with that oversized grill and nerdy side panels. It's embarrassing for Toyota. I wouldn't take one for free. Mine runs great now and only has 190k on it so I have plenty of time to find a decent replacement. It won't be a new gen Tundra that's for sure. Good luck.
@@danmccarthy206 don’t be such a fan boy, tensioner failures at 100k for a fix of $4000 isn’t anything to be proud of. Chevys do better than this crap lol
@@74nova36 yeah, GM makes a great engine. So great, they had to discontinue cylinder deactivation because it would implode and destroy the engine with 25k miles on it. They suck too. That's the dilemma, Toyota has given up on quality just like the American manufacturers so there's really no great truck to buy now.
@@danmccarthy206 fuck at least you can admit that. Just saying anything after the dawn of Amazon has led to cost effectiveness over longevity. Chevys these days don’t impress me. I mean the 2012 and prior models, they just don’t die, I’ve got a chain rattling on my tundra while my wife’s 09 Tahoe would take me to California from Texas no questions asked. Sucks but after the ability to source cheaper and cheaper parts, it’s all gone downhill
My noise started 3 wks ago and mechanic said I have slack on timing chain but why does my car drive normal except for this awful noise? I had a timing BELT snap and it was terrifying
The slack is most likely due to a sticky hydraulic tensioner. Does the noise go away after the engine warms up? The noise is annoying for sure but the chain is tight enough not to allow it to jump a notch on the sprocket so you are probably pretty safe until you get it figured out. I drove mine for months like that. If I were you, I would try a really good oil flush product a few times and see if it goes away. The 2010's seemed to have this issue more than some other years for some reason even though they are all the same engine. You could also have VVT issues that could be making some noise. I would have someone throw it on a Diagnostic reader (Thinktool or similar) and see if they can read the cam sensor and crank sensor timing to see if they are out of spec. You might find the drivers side bank seems a few degrees off from the passenger side. This issue seems to happen on the drivers side mostly. In my case, both my tensioners were very varnish because of the shitty oil i used. Valvoline full synthetic for 10 years and this is what I get? I just switched to Mobil 1 to see if the engine stays cleaner after each oil change and flush.
@@danmccarthy206 I’m taking it to the dealership since I’m still under warranty but noise doesn’t go away and seems like it’s getting worse when I drive it back and forth to work. It is loud during cold starts but seems just as loud now at idle and slow accelerating. I heard these Terrains blow through oil fast
All right folks I got the solution for this problem always added another quarter oil because the Toyota failed to put the right amount oil for some reason needs to be another quarter to meet the level with the engine. Add a quarter and tell me about it.
Work on engine tarnish use until it stops. These engines need be really clean because of such close talerance. Be sure cct valves are very clean. No code ever shows.
Same exact thing im getting on my 2016 at 135k miles. Usually only on cold start, intermittent tapping/clacking then goes away after idling for 10 minutes or so. Been running it like this for prob 20k miles but sometimes it gets so loud i get nervous. Seems like it goes away with a new oil change but comes back after a thousand miles or so. So i brought it to local dealer, Master Tech said he was stumped and never really sees this and called Toyota who recommended changing all 4 cam gears lol to the tune of 3k. I'm pretty confident its the timing chain tensioner based on similar videos and symptoms. Frustrating when even the dealer cant give you a warm fuzzy that they know exactly what the problem is and how to fix it.
Yeah, sometimes its not completely clear where the noise is coming from. Most likely, it's the tensioners. I know the dealers like to push the VVT sprocket as well. They are 400 each times 4. I didnt replace mine and they seemed fine when i took it all apart. You might find a small shop that can do the work for a more fair price. I would do all 4 chains, 4 tensioners and 4 guides since you have it apart. You can get a complete kit of parts from Mellings for 390 bucks. They are good quality. Good luck with it!
@@clintwalker2596 the Toyota parts are expensive. 4 x 4 sprockets ar 400 bucks each is 1600. Plus the 4 chains, 4 tensioner and 4 chain guides are probably 2k for oem Toyota parts. Plus all the gaskets, antifreeze, etc. Plus labor. I paid about 325 for a timing chain "kit" that contains 4 chains, 4 tensioner and 4 guides. That's an aftermarket Mellings kit, not oem Toyota. The Toyota parts are always the best to use no doubt but the aftermarket stuff looks identical and they are all probably manufactured by the same place so, good enough for me. The labor is costly. Not sure how much time Toyota allows for the job but its probably 15hours or so? At 150 bucks an hour, labor adds up fast.
@@danmccarthy206 That's crazy expensive, may just be time to trade it for all that. The dealers I've talked to said they've never seen an issue like this, or have had a timing chain or tensioner replaced on a 5.7. I guess most just roll with it? Sounds like it's pretty rare occurrence and most probably don't even realize there's an issue. Seems like the odds of it causing engine failure is very low if you're just able to deal with it.
@@clintwalker2596 I would fix it sooner than later. The chain is loose when it's making noise and it could jump a tooth on the timing for that bank. If you plan to keep the truck, I would get it fixed before it jumps a tooth and you have a valve collision. If that happens, you'll see what expensive is.
Odd part is. I’ve owned 3 tundras and one sequoia. The sequoia and one tundra being a 2010 and sure enough it was the chain tensioner and vvt actuators on both. That was a odd year for the 5.7
I don't think so. The 5.7 has been the same since 2007 until now for the most part. Maybe they used a different vendor for those parts in 2010? Good question.
@@danmccarthy206 Having owned and maintained 18 Toyotas including the 2017 Tundra Trd pro I have now. I can confirm that they do change vendors based on the oem parts I’ve purchased. The quality seems to remain the same for the most part. I strongly believe they had a bad run of tensioners that year as the majority of the complaints about this issue were for that model year. After 2010-2011 you don’t hear about the issue as much. Then from 2014+ it’s negligible. Also going by the other comments somewhat confirms this. Most of them seem to have the 2010
Bro you’re right. I’ve done enough digging to determine mode years 2010-2015 are susceptible to this. It always seems to happen right at 100k as well. Which is when most warranty stop covering your. Surprise surprise.
It might be the VVT gears on the camshafts. Some folks have had to replace them because they make noise. Mine were fine. They are about 400 bucks each and there are 4 of them.
Alguien que me ayude porfavor tengo ese mismo problema en mi Toyota tundra 2011 hace 4 meses me le cambiaron la cadena del tiempo porque hacía ese ruido se le quitó pero ahora ya esta lo mismo hace como que es motor diésel
Talvez el problema es que solo te cambiaron la cadena del tiempo !! Esa Madre lleva varias parts sprocket tensador, ect es un kit completo de 3 cadenas deveria ir al taller a pedir garantia.
@@chrisluo4162 Yes, I replaced all 4 chains, 4 guides and 4 hydraulic tensioners. Only the two lower tensioners were "bad" but since I was so deep into the engine, I replaced all the timing parts so I never have to open it again. I didn't replace the 4 VVT's on the cams. Mine we good and they are $400 each! Here is the video of the replacement. www.tundras.com/threads/timing-chain-stretch.38764/
That could be the exhaust manifolds. When they are cold, they shrink and any gaps will be larger and you may hear exhaust noise through those gaps. As the engine warms and expands, it can close those gaps up so you can't hear the leaking exhaust. That problem was actually pretty common on the 2000-2006 4.7L Tundra's.
So I have this same noise on my 280k 5.7l. But usually only at cold startup's but goes away within max 1 min after startup. Yours is a lot longer than 1min.. very likely the stuck/sticking tensioners have gone bad and need replacing if I have to arm chair mechanic guess it. BTW before doing the tensioner replacement try the following 1. A few people have used some fuel additives to unstick the tensioners which worked... 2. also using correct weight oil (Mobile 1 I think is preferred) 3. and also putting enough oil in the engine as well like up to 8 qts for this big engine. Hope that helps.
My tensioners had varnish on the plungers which caused them to sick and prevented them from pushing out against the chains when the oil pressure came up. If you can use some kind of oil flush to help dissolve the varnish, you can probably save yourself a bunch of money if varnish on the plunger is the root cause. ( I think in most cases, the hardware is fine, its just all varnished up) I tried a few oil flush products but I was a little worried that those products dilute the oil and reduce the effective lubricating properties of the oil. I don't know if it's enough to really cause any internal engine wear but I didn't want to find out the hard way. I use the 0-20 or 5-20 oil in my truck for the most part. It doesn't seem to make any difference in valvetrain noise. All the 5.7's have the same noisy top end but they still run fine.
I have the same noise but it doesn't go away when it warms up or when I drive it. Tundra only has 51K miles. As RPMs go up noise gets worse. It's more loke a tick tock sound, almost identical pattern to turn signal at idle.
![Top 5 Symptoms of a BAD TIMING CHAIN [What to Look Out For]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7beQX8cE-18/mqdefault.jpg)
I have this same noise too. 2012 Tundra, 5.7L V8 with 221,000 miles. It's been sitting at a shop for almost a week now, undiagnosed. Thank god for TH-cam.
It's a big job to replace the tensioners. Let me know what it costs if they determine it is the tensioners. I replaced all 4 chains, 4 tensioners and 4 guides. It was about 300 for those parts. The labor will be 10 to 15 hours i bet.
Hi John, here is the repair video. This might give them a heads up on what might be causing the noise and how to fix it. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
@@danmccarthy206 Thanks, Dan.
@@danmccarthy206 The shop I took it to is backed up. They gave me a loaner. As soon as they diagnose it and give me a quote, I'll share it.
@@NHBackcountryGuide cool. I'm curious to see what a dealer gets vs an independent repair shop. Its a time consuming repair. I bet some shops won't even do it.
2nd comment...sorry. As I said already, its the primary chain tensioner on the drivers side. When the oil is cold the tensioner keeps dropping pressure which is letting the chain slap down at the crank. The VVT will try to compensate and by the time it does, the tensioner builds pressure again...It will do this on and off about 20 times until the engine warms up enough and the tensioner pressure stays and it wont return all day unless the engine oil is able to cool a lot.
Thanks man icant believe a youtube video helped me diagnose this while a certified toyota tech ddnt know what the hell was going on smh
Great! I hope you can get it resolved.
Thanks for posting this video, I have 2010 tundra 5.7 with 174,000 miles and my truck makes the same noise . Took it to Toyota dealer for a diagnostic. Was told it was a piston slap. I disagreed with the diagnostic. So they currently have a lead tech rechecking my vehicle. Will post what there findings are.
I doubt very much it's piston noise. Does it go away when it warms up? All these 5.7’s make some amount of valvetrain noise from the tappet clearances but I have never heard any real piston slap noise from mine. They all sound the same. My engine made progressively more tappet noise as it got older. As for the timing chain noise, mine made noise mostly when it was cold for the first 10 minutes. However, eventually, it made noise just about all the time. In fact, I got worried the chain was so loose, it would eventually derail or double up and jam. If it does, your screwed because this is an interference engine for sure. In the end, what I found was both lower tensioners were sticking and just not extending out as they should have once the engine applied oil pressure to them. One thing you may notice in the video is the sudden change in rpm and chain noise. I'm speculating the VVT solenoids are being activated by the ECU during warmup for various reasons as they should be and when they open/close, they can cause a sudden drop in oil pressure OR a sudden increase in oil pressure depending on whether they are feeding the phasers with pressurized oil or allowing the phaser to drain off and return the cam to the "straight up" position. (If you notice, the phasers have a return spring on them that brings them back to “neutral” if oil pressure is released by one of the VVT solenoids switching to the “drain” mode) It makes some sense that if the sticking plunger on the tensioner suddenly got a quick burst of pressure from one of the solenoids switching the bleed off one of the phasers, it might be just enough additional pressure to free and push the plunger on the tensioner out and tighten the chain. Again, watch the video and notice that rpm suddenly changes and the noise vanishes for a while. That can’t be just a coincidence every time it happens because it happens almost every time the RPM change quickly. Just a theory on my part after inspecting all the parts I pulled out of mine a few weeks ago. Both my lower tensioners were very “sticky” and had difficulty fully extending when I pulled them out. I'm still trying to put a video together on that job and what I found while doing it. Stay tuned for that.
Take a peek at this video. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
Its the primary chain tensioner on the driver side. Its not a massive common problem, but enough of one. I just replaced mine 2 months ago after procrastinating about a year. Its a hefty job but driveway doable if you have much higher than average mechanical ability. I replaced all 4 tensioners, primary and secondary chains along with all new guides and rails, because I have 200K on the engine. You will need to pull the plugs, valve covers, water pump, all plumbing, air pump tubes, all accessories (AC, P/S, alt) and let them hang, remove the oil filter housing and cooler, front crank, front timing chain cover, radiator, fan, shroud....Then you can get to the chains and tensioners. Gotta set all primary and secondary marks... There are a lot of 0-rings, and a few gaskets and you will need some FIPG from Toyota along with new coolant (Zerex from Napa is the same as Toyota pink/red)....Its a kick in the ass, a knowledgeable friend would be a great help. If you are familiar, its a 2 day job....if not, expect 3 days. BTW, I ordered all TOYOTA parts from online sources....I compared my 200K chains to the new ones...zero stretch. Good luck
Some video of that job. A friend is a good idea but none of mine are smart enough.... th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
You wouldn’t happen to have part numbers would you?
@@chapin615 Some of the part numbers I used are at the beginning of the video. You can look up the part numbers on any Toyota parts website.
@@chapin615 I have them all. Truth be told, I only had to replace the bad tensioner but with 200K, I replaced everything. A side note, the 200K chains were the exact length of the brand new Toyota chains.
can you replace the tensioners without taking off the chains?
I have a 2015 Tundra bought new, now have 321,000 miles on it started doing the exact same thing about a month ago runs fine for the first minute then starts ticking from the driver side and somewhat of a rumble like a diesel comes and goes and then right at the 6-minute mark it quits and it's fine all day I can go to the lake park the truck leave it there for 6 hours startup doesn't do it it's only in the mornings
This is precisely the noise I have had on my 2016, 5.7 tundra for a few months now. It comes & goes but nothing catastrophic has happened. I just want ti get through winter before I tackle it...
I ran mine with this noise for quite some time. 6 months at least. You should be fine because the chain stays tight enough even if the tensioners are not working great. The tensioner ratchets out, so it should be tight enough for now. Rest up.... that job is time consuming!
I’m a little late to the part here but try amsoil engine flush. Works like a champ. I saw a few comments mentioning piston slap and this is not it. Piston slap will make it sound more like a diesel than anything. Plus once it’s warm it usually goes away
Any updates?? I have seen several other videos where the tensioner was the culprit as ThatGeniusMind stated. Maybe it won't hurt to run seafoam through the oil. Maybe a port in the tensioner is clogged. Seafoam may clear it before you have to pull the timing cover and do all that work.
I ran the seafoam through the oil for 500 miles then changed the oil. Still behaves the same. Tomorrow i am going to pull it apart in my shop. I have all 4 chains, 4 slides, 4 tensioners, 2 sprockets, a new water pump, new oil pump kit, new radiator hoses and new radiator, all the gaskets , etc. I don't plan on changing the VVT units on the cams (400 bucks each!) because i don't have any vvt codes on the ECU so they should be ok. I could probably get away with just changing the 1 tensioner on the drivers side for the long chain but since i will have it all apart, i will replace it all. I plan to buy a new tundra once they work all the kinks out of the new model. My boy will have his license by them so he can drive this one with all new parts in it. Hopefully that makes it reasonably reliable for him. I'm also doing both rear axle bearings, backing plates, all hardware, new rotors, calipers and pads. I have a complete update kit from Toyota that includes the new style backing plates that DON'T rub when you turn slowly. I also have all front brakes and rotors to do as well. I'm too old to bother with changing parts ad hoc. I would rather do them all at once and be good for another 10 years than replace stuff every year to spread out the cost. If I'm doing all the work for free, I'm fine buying all new parts for all these systems that are 10 years old. I will probably video the work and post it. I haven't seen anything posted on yt thats super detailed on this topic so maybe i can create it.
@@danmccarthy206 oh man that sounds like lots of work! But also sounds like a great video. I really hope you record and post it. I'd for sure appreciate it. I have a sequoia with the 5.7 engine in and so far so good but I want to be aware of some potential issues. I've done similar repairs on my ram 5.7 hemi but of course every engine is different and I love watching these repairs. I'm gonna subscribe in anticipation. Good luck
@@ryanv7195 here is the video. No need to make fun of the hair. It was early.... th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html In the end, both lower tensioners were varnished up and the plungers were sticking. I took those bad boys and cut them up with a Whizzer to look inside. I expected to see a bunch of coked-up oil but the oil was fine, no coke, no metal, no nothing.... just sticky plungers from varnished oil and a very very slight wear mark on one of the plungers. That pisses me off because I have changed the oil at the recommended service intervals (on the speedo) and used Valvoline full syn every time. In the video you can see the varnish on the internals and, to me, it looks pretty normal for this engine with 170k on it but I'm not a mechanic and I don't see these engines every day so WTF do I know. This opens up a whole new can of worms for the question " What's the best oil to use?. I think each case is different and it depends on the engine, load, etc. I had an expert Porsche mechanic (Gerry Woods) tell me that he rebuilt a 3.0L boxer engine and it was loaded with varnish despite the owner religiously using the top grade oils at that time (1980's for all you young fuckers out there) and what he determined was, in this case, the engine was air-cooled (not water-cooled) and it presented a whole different set of requirements than what that oil was designed to do for the "general automotive market". So, now, I run Mercedes oil and filters in my bi-turbo V6 as recommended by the manufacturer. MB designs that oil for the engine AND Turbo it comes with. No doubt, there are good oils out there, I just don't want to wait 100k miles to see if I chose the right one! BTW- the shitty oil was Valvoline and that company did more advertising than McDonalds back in the 80's so just because you see it on TV, doesn't necessarily mean it's the best.
@@danmccarthy206 Castrol is same shitty as valvoline tested myself.. the oil I happy with is a surprisingly Mobil 1 from Costco for engines over 75k . Using it for 150k on Santa Fe 2.0 Turbo, which I bought new.. 3k intervals …recently partly disassembled engine and it all it perfect shape.. absolutely clean… for notorious Hyundai GDI engine great results, whereas other engines of this type die at around just 75k
Thanks for posting this video.. I have a 2010, thank goodness I don't have this problem. It's always good to have videos like this if the problem should arise.. ✌️
I have been working on replacing the chains and tensioners over the last few days. Definetly more work and more difficult than I anticipated. I have taken some video and pics of various parts of the job and I will assemble a video soon to show some tips on doing the job. In my case, I think the hydraulic tensioners were both gummed up and wouldn't extend under oil pressure. Oddly enough, the passenger side chain seemed very loose and the lower sprocket showed some wear even though all the noise was coming from the driver side. Lots of tips on doing the job, but I wouldn't recommend doing it at home unless you are pretty experienced and have a decent set of tools. More to come.
th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
It’s the timing chain tensioner on one of the sides. Look up car care nut videos are has shown it
I have the same thing on my 2014 tundra, 123k miles. cold start, intermittent, non-rhythmic clacking, then goes away when engine is fully warmed up. took it to Toyota dealership and they recommended replacing the timing chains, tensioners and the cam vvt’s. 9 freaking thousand dollars. $9,000!! i had such high hopes for my tundra. all the guys bragging about their 300k mile tundras. As soon as i pay it off and my 3 year extended warranty ends, this shit comes out of nowhere. Now i gotta figure out how to unload it. Word to the wise. If your tundra starts doing this, dont take it to a Toyota dealership. The diagnosis will end up on Carfax
The dealers are thieves. Find a local Toyota mechanic who can do the job for a fair price. It's a very involved job and time-consuming. I would replace the 4 chains, 4 tensioners, and 4 guides along with the 2 bottom sprockets. You can buy a kit from Mellings or Asin with all these parts in it for $300. (Instead of 2k from Toyota) The 4 VVT sprockets are most likely fine and won't need to be replaced unless the teeth are worn or they have an internal failure. You will need gaskets for valve covers and maybe a new water pump since it's easy to replace while it's all apart. You should be able to get it done for $2000-$3000 if you can find the right mechanic. I did mine last year at 170k miles, and it's still quiet at 197k. Don't give up on it. The new Tundra is unproven, so I wouldn't jump into one of those. All the other vendors have problems with their trucks as well. Stay with the devil that you know.
th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
Dan, thanks so much for that reply. I had a feeling the price was outrageous. I did watch an hour long sort of step by step on a 5.7 tundra by a guy named Sergay, whole timing kit replacement and it does look like a very extensive job taking out the radiator and all the accessories that are mounted to the timing cover, alternator, water pump, etc. but yes, 9k seemed excessive and we all know how shocking the price of used trucks are right now. So i appreciate the encouragement and the cost estimates you provided that i can use as a guide. Thanks again, Dan!
@@danmccarthy206 Dan- after you put on the new tensioners, chains, guards, etc…did you turn the engine using the crank pulley? If so, did you notice the tensioners on bank 1 stay still while the tensioner on bank 2 actually extends and retracts?
@@Twim82 I did turn the crank pulley with a bar and socket slowly after everything was installed to verify there was no interference. I didn't notice if either tensioner showed slack when I spun it but without oil pressure, I would expect slack on either side or both banks because the cams are both "spring loaded" (valve springs) and depending on where they are in the cycle, you may get forward or backward force on the longer chain because those cams somtimes jerk backward because of the valve spring force on the lobes. Until you have oil pressure, you can't really make any assessment on the chain tension. As long as the installation pin is pulled out, you should have enough tension on the chain to prevent it from jumping teeth. Once the oil pressure comes up, they will tighten properly.... As long as everything is installed properly. Verify all the marks are where they should be and slowly turn the crank to verify you don't have any collisions. If the timing isn't right, you can definitely have a collision.
What Toyota over 150k doesn't get chain noise? Still good for another 250k.
timing chain tensioner works using oil pressure coming in from a small orifice on its back, best to stick to oem oil, I ve noticed Mobil1 seems to not pressurize the tensioner properly, getting rid of Mobil 1 quieted things down, btw oem oil is made by Mobil but Toyota specifies their own additive package
I read this from a couple of forums... gonna try something other than mobile first.
Just changed chain and tensioner.
Truck still did it.
Put sea foam in motor stopped it.
Old tensioner was fine but tarnish keep it from moving getting stuck on tarnish of shaft of tentioner.
I am going to try with the sea foam. My just started yesterday:/
Same noise on same side for 75,000 miles now and about 3 years. Local dealership doesn't know and I'm not tearing apart a motor to guess but I do believe its a timing chain tensioner issue. Hasn't really changed much over time.
my dealership said 3-4 hundred parts and labor for both tensioners. if its the chain, thats big money
ME TOO.....goes away once it reaches normal temp. Couldn't tell if it was lifters, manifold, timing chain? You think its the tc cover?
It's probably one of the chain tensioners. You might be able to tell with a stethoscope by running the engine and hunting around for the noise.
Sounds typical with these 5.7L V8. Toyota needs to get a TSB and fix this. It won't be good for their image.
But also owners need to publish this in social media to get the momentum going...... It's a shame the owner have to fix Yoda failure
I don't hold Toyota responsible for the problem. I have 175k on the truck so it would be a little much to ask them to flag it as a problem for the 5.7 V8's. The chains were all pretty much perfect, the slides were barely worn, the sprockets were pretty good too. Just the hydraulic tensioners were bad. One in particular (the passenger side i think... have to double check). I changed the oil every 5500 or 7500? as the maintenance light comes on and did the filter as well. OEM toyota filters and Valvoline 0-20 full synthetic oil every time like clockwork. I was actually surprised the chains were in such good condition. I'm not sure what you could do to prevent it. Maybe run an engine cleaner like Seafoam or one of the Lucas products once in a while? There are two things i noticed about the old tensioners. They had thick, varnished old oil in them and one of them showed a spot on the plunger where it was really polished like something was rubbing against it in a certain area. I will show this on a video as soon as i get all my footage sorted out.
@@danmccarthy206 Thanks Dan for chiming in. From your description it sounds like a mechanical problem on the part (tensioner). That's why I still think a faulty part was built in by the manufacturer, or this part is not being properly lubricated, when using NON-TOYOTA synthetic oil.
Now I have two more follow up questions:
Is this issue also coming up with the Land Cruiser? As I believe, Tundra/Sequoia/LandCruiser all share the same 5.7L V8 engine. I haven't hear a report of this issue on the LC. just wondering if this is just maintenance issue with the grade of oil.
The Reason why I noticed the engine noise on my 2016 Sequoia LTD, is when you run the synthetic bulk oil from Toyota dealer (what you can't get at their part department), you the engine is pretty quite. I've been using Mobile1 Synthetic as well a OEM filters, FROM DAY ONE and I can hear a similar noise AT COLD START ONLY and as soon as the engine warms up, the noise goes away, what behavior I don't observe when running the Toyota synthetic bulk oil I get from the dealership servicing my car.
FYI: I've observed a similar noise on my 16 Sequoia (now with 23000 miles on it) as soon as I finished my first 4 free oil change, that came with the new car purchase. Since then I've been doing my oil change my self with Mobile1. I'm considering going back to the Toyota Synthetic oil they sell at their part department, as I tried it last on my last oil change and It took down the noise level at code start considerably.
Also I'm planning to keep my ride for as long as it'll drivable, that's why I'll like to correct this sooner than later, hoping not to end up with this very same issue you're describing in your video.
Thanks for your inputs/feedback.
Here is the video of the repair. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
Hi guys, I own 2010 tundra with 126000 miles and I have the same problem and I replaced the exhaust manifold gasket. PROBLEM SOLVED .
If you replaced the manifold gaskets, you didn't have this problem.
sounds like you had an exhaust leak
This. And cam tower leaks etc. Will become more prevalent as this generation Tundra ages. I believe this is one of the reasons Toyota retired the 5.7L motor.
They retired it due to government emissions. That's why they did what ford did. 3.5 twin turbo. V8s only get retired because of emissions. That's why chevy and fiat are retiring theirs
this needs to be a recall, thats exactly what my truck does, also i pull the serpentine belt off to see if was ac compressor or alternator, how does a recall starts who we need to call?
I doubt Toyota would recall this problem because it's related to vanishing which means poor maintenance in thier eyes. Mine started making noise at 170k miles. It's had a pretty long life so they won't call it a defect. You can probably solve the problem with some oil flush products. I just flushed mine today with ATS 505 CRO oil treatment. It seems very strong unlike any other products I have seen. It's not cheap but I would try a few flushes with that product to see if it might resolve the vanishing issue. I have already fixed the hardware but I figured the flush might help loosen carbon on the rings and keep them from sticking to the ring lands. It may also remove other varnish so what the hell...he'll.... I'll give it a try.
These problems happen all over the place and should damage Toyota’s reputation accordingly. Hell they recommend 10k intervals for oil changes, yet claim this is caused by bad oil. Clearly bs
We should sue toyota in a class action suit. There is this same problem all over youtube. Lol. Countless videos. I wouldn't buy another Toyota again since I'm having to deal with this engineering/design flaw
Add CRO 505 oil treatment / flush only replace oil filter and new oil also get the 2 pack CRO 505 gas treatment 60$ for both it will free up the carbon and quite it down is timing chain tensioner this will work, also on cold start try to see if you turn A/C on n off if it goes away n stops or put in Neutral could be belt tensioner if you take off serpentine belt and see if you can hear , this is a recall and they have not dealt with it stand up cause i can say that specific additives read directions and 1/2 quart oil more specs are wrong from Toyota and I can tell you it’s Timing Chain tensioner clatter on this Toyota motor will run forever but sounds ratty
I tried running 1 flush of CRO 505 through the engine, but it didn't free up the tensioner. I would do the flush 2 or 3 times every 500 miles (as well as the oil changes) and see if it resolves the problem. It's certainly worth a try before you take it all apart.
209,567 miles and still running quiet!
What was the problem and how much did you pay to fix it?
@@josethomas1054the hydraulic chain tensioners were bad. I replaced all 4 timing chains, 4 tensioners, 4 guides. The parts were about $325 or so. It was a lot of work to repair.
@@danmccarthy206dealership = $6k to fix. I'm stuck in this now. Either thicker oil, clean out gunk, or final, replace all ir sell the truck
@@TheYoungerSemiOldMan where is the truck?
@danmccarthy206 truck is a the collision center right now. Yea, go figure. Havent owned the truck 10 days and this idiot hit me on the highway. So I'll get it back in 2 more weeks. It'll be a month. Be this is Southern CA
With the VVT and tensioners controlled by oil pressure, I wonder how much oil circulates through these systems when the temps are below 20 Deg F, let alone when it's 20 or 30 deg F below zero. Just put a quart of oil in the freezer, with a thermometer, and see how thick the oil is.
My 5.7 runs much better after a good 300 mile road trip. That might be the best help, every few months, to keep the tensioners clean.
The way the tensioner system is designed does not allow for any "new" oil to routinely circulate through the tensioner to "flush" the oil through. It's a dead-end system and the only oil that passes through it is the oil that leaks past the plunger and that amount is very small. This is how old, dirty, varnished oil builds up in the tensioner and eventually causes it to stick tr totally seize in place.
Throw some seafoam in your oil, run it hard and switch to 5w30. Solved my issues.
I ran seafoam and an oil cleaner though it but it didn't remove enough varnish to fix it but if you flush it 3 or 4 times, I bet it would dissolve enough of the varnish on the tensioners to free them up in most cases. I would definetly flush it several time before spending all that money to replace the hardware. I bet in 90% of the cases it would fix it.
@@danmccarthy206 I thought I was up for an engine rebuild and seafoam completely changed my motor, in sold on the product 👍🏻
@@cjm5161 any updates Dan McCarthy
@@cjm5161 I ran half a bottle through mine on a 2600 mile trip and then the other half right after and still have the driver side top tensioner noise intermittent. Pissing me off. I am considering trying to pb blast the tensioner through the oil fill port.
@@teamhogmeat did the same. Seafoam didn’t change a thing. I’ve hot changed the oil 3 times and it’s only getting worse. 107k on a 2014
My dealership just quoted me 3-4 hundred for parts and labor for both tensioners to be replaced. chain kit is a big expense, but thats a lifetime part so ????
I don't think that quote is correct. The labor is like 10 hours alone. I would verify.
I have the same issue in Land Cruiser 5.7 engine, what should I replace ?
Timing chain tensioner
Dose it cause big damage if I leave it like this ?
It gets worst as you get closer to needing your oil changed!
I've noticed the same thing with my truck
I have a 2010 With 250,000 miles that’s making this same noise... I look forward to the video on how to fix it. A list of parts and whatnot it took to fix it would also be great! Thanks for the info.
I'm working on it.... it should help.
No rush!
@@goober24787 This should give you a ballpark idea of what it takes to fix the chain. It's not a step by step but it should help answer some questions before you tackle the job. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you have done similar work before. It was a bitch to get it all apart. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
Please help how long can I drive it like this for before getting fixed and how much is it to replace the chains from dealer ????
I drove mine for quite a while. Probably 6 months before I fixed it. The dealer in my area said about 2-4k to fix it. I would look for a good local Toyota mechanic to fix it for less.
@@danmccarthy206 I have a 2 year warranty and I have 130k miles hopefully they fix it thank you !
My started this at 75,000 miles. Have close to 150,000 now. Hasn't changed much
Goes away when engine warm. I use mobile 1 0-20w oil with 5000 mile change intervals
Miles.
I have 2012 tundra. From day 1 when I bought. Makes this stupid sound got worse and worse but doesn't shake. The same noise the. My buddy took off the front and said it can be the man I forgot the name of the part but they look like door wedges by the timing chain. There are three of them. I never changed it because I'm lazy as fuck. The noise at 260k miles is the same as yours. It got louder and louder. I believe it will start shaking soon. Tensioners that's what they are called
Mine does the exact same thing same side. Was it the tensioners?
Yup.
Mr McCarthy did the noise start of at a minimum and increaes over time and when mine does that i hear it better behind drivers tire and around the upper control arm I took it to toyota today and they said I need 12k engine replacement please other info would be helpful thanks...Mike
My noise was mostly around the drivers side tire well area like yours. I can't tell you if it's the same exact issue, but if it runs well, it might be. I doubt it needs a new engine. Get a second opinion from another dealer or a good local Toyota mechanic. The 5.7 engines are pretty durable and they seldom just fail and require replacement.
The noise got progressively louder over time. You can hear it better near the driver side wheel well. You probably need the timing chain (or at least tensioners) replaced. I replaced mine and now its fine. I put 20k miles since i replaced them and its still perfect.
So my 2011 tundra just started doing this as well. Same exact thing for me. Starts and stops with no rhyme or reason. I do notice that it does completely stop after the engine is good and warm. Did you find out exactly what it was?
Yes, it was the hydraulic chain tensioners on the driver's side. I replaced all of the timing hardware last year and it's been fine ever since. I have 205k miles on it now. See the repair here. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4D6xRUhsFauvJpG9
How much did it cost to do that type of job? Mine 2016 sequoia making that same noise when cold start
@@amitsomnath8737 I spent about 500 replacing all the timing chain components myself. A dealer would probably charge 3 to 4k to do this work using Toyota parts. It's a lot of labor!
I have the exact noise on my 200xxxkm 2015 5.7 maybe mine lil less but it comes and goes. I got it checked at the dealership, he said it might possibly the water pump, but am sure it's not the water pump, how do I make sure it's the time chain? And do I have to change the whole thing or just tensioner?
Thank you for your video!!
The water pump would make noise all the time, not just once in a while. There is also a fixed idler pulley on the serpentine belt. That could be making some noise too but it would be constant. Its difficult to isolate the noise but if it happens when cold and goes away after a few minutes, its probably the tensioner. Mine made intermittent noise but always when cold. There are also 4 VVT sprockets on the cams. Those can make noise as well. It probably has to come apart to really determine root cause. If the chains are in good shape, you could just replace the tensioners. I did everything because i never want to take it apart again. I did not replace the VVT's. They are 400 bucks each!
@@danmccarthy206 Thank you, I really appreciate your info!!
Run a higher viscosity oil, and it will go away. 5w-40
My 5.7 had 300k miles and it had this sound so do u think I should Flush the oil or change the Timing Chain
Flush it for sure before you spend the money for new hardware.
How much is it to change a timing chain
@@abdullahhashim2845 My quote from Toyota was $4,800
I really hate to tell you this but it will do it still even once fixed. i spent over $2.5k on genuine oem toyota parts, even changed all 4 phasers. job took me 5-6 days, now it just does it on start up til warm, then goes away after driving, whereas before it did the opposite lol. annoying but reliable. makes no since, oh well. wish i would have video'd it as it was one heckuva job. i have 3 of these 2nd gens.
That job sucks. I just did it over Christmas break. However, my truck is silent now. I did take some video and I will post it soon. I did all 4 chains, 2 sprockets , 4 slides and 4 tensioners. I didn't change the phasers because they are 400 bucks each and I didn't think they were making the noise. Not sure what might be causing your noise. It seems like those are all the parts that could possibly make any noise. Maybe you have some excessive valve clearance on a few of the valves? Also, I'm glad I'm not the only one who burned up 5 days doing it! Every little part on that engine was a bitch to get off. You can't see anything, the bolts are really difficult to reach. I won't do that job again.
Because its not the VVT, its the primary chain tensioner on the drivers side.
@@fillupread both the lower tensioners were bad. I had noise on both banks. 3000 miles since the repairs and its silent so far.
@@danmccarthy206 Wow, have yet to run across a bank 2 primary chain tensioner go bad. Regardless, there is no way I would go that far into a motor with 100K+ miles not not replace it all.
Its the timing chain Tensioner cam
Correct, drivers side, primary chain tensioner. Common issue, just did my own. I hate to see all this other bad advice in here, guy already has a hell of a job in front of him, bad advice wont help that at all.
The repair. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
This is why I’m selling my 5.7 for a 4.6.
These videos are all the 5.7
Clearly a problem with their tensioner design
Be smart and give the 4.6 a few years to see how it holds up before you buy one. There are a whole slew of fit and finish issues and wastegate issues on the new turbos. Do you want to see your cab taken off the frame at the dealership because that's the only way to repair turbos? F that. I'm sure there will be other issue that come up over time. Why be a Guinea pig for Toyota. Besides, the new truck looks horrible with that oversized grill and nerdy side panels. It's embarrassing for Toyota. I wouldn't take one for free. Mine runs great now and only has 190k on it so I have plenty of time to find a decent replacement. It won't be a new gen Tundra that's for sure. Good luck.
@@danmccarthy206 are you stupid? The new motors are twin turbo 3.5
I’m referring to the motor option available from 2007-2021
@@danmccarthy206 don’t be such a fan boy, tensioner failures at 100k for a fix of $4000 isn’t anything to be proud of. Chevys do better than this crap lol
@@74nova36 yeah, GM makes a great engine. So great, they had to discontinue cylinder deactivation because it would implode and destroy the engine with 25k miles on it. They suck too. That's the dilemma, Toyota has given up on quality just like the American manufacturers so there's really no great truck to buy now.
@@danmccarthy206 fuck at least you can admit that. Just saying anything after the dawn of Amazon has led to cost effectiveness over longevity. Chevys these days don’t impress me.
I mean the 2012 and prior models, they just don’t die, I’ve got a chain rattling on my tundra while my wife’s 09 Tahoe would take me to California from Texas no questions asked. Sucks but after the ability to source cheaper and cheaper parts, it’s all gone downhill
My noise started 3 wks ago and mechanic said I have slack on timing chain but why does my car drive normal except for this awful noise? I had a timing BELT snap and it was terrifying
The slack is most likely due to a sticky hydraulic tensioner. Does the noise go away after the engine warms up? The noise is annoying for sure but the chain is tight enough not to allow it to jump a notch on the sprocket so you are probably pretty safe until you get it figured out. I drove mine for months like that. If I were you, I would try a really good oil flush product a few times and see if it goes away. The 2010's seemed to have this issue more than some other years for some reason even though they are all the same engine. You could also have VVT issues that could be making some noise. I would have someone throw it on a Diagnostic reader (Thinktool or similar) and see if they can read the cam sensor and crank sensor timing to see if they are out of spec. You might find the drivers side bank seems a few degrees off from the passenger side. This issue seems to happen on the drivers side mostly. In my case, both my tensioners were very varnish because of the shitty oil i used. Valvoline full synthetic for 10 years and this is what I get? I just switched to Mobil 1 to see if the engine stays cleaner after each oil change and flush.
@@danmccarthy206 I’m taking it to the dealership since I’m still under warranty but noise doesn’t go away and seems like it’s getting worse when I drive it back and forth to work. It is loud during cold starts but seems just as loud now at idle and slow accelerating. I heard these Terrains blow through oil fast
@@alexspicer6043 is it a 5.7 v8 Tundra??
All right folks I got the solution for this problem always added another quarter oil because the Toyota failed to put the right amount oil for some reason needs to be another quarter to meet the level with the engine. Add a quarter and tell me about it.
It's not the level of the oil (unless it's very low) that causes the problem. It's the stuck tensioner.
I did it and so far no more noise! Thank you!
Work on engine tarnish use until it stops.
These engines need be really clean because of such close talerance.
Be sure cct valves are very clean.
No code ever shows.
Vvt valves sorry
Bank 1 primary timing chain tensioner
Same exact thing im getting on my 2016 at 135k miles. Usually only on cold start, intermittent tapping/clacking then goes away after idling for 10 minutes or so. Been running it like this for prob 20k miles but sometimes it gets so loud i get nervous. Seems like it goes away with a new oil change but comes back after a thousand miles or so. So i brought it to local dealer, Master Tech said he was stumped and never really sees this and called Toyota who recommended changing all 4 cam gears lol to the tune of 3k. I'm pretty confident its the timing chain tensioner based on similar videos and symptoms. Frustrating when even the dealer cant give you a warm fuzzy that they know exactly what the problem is and how to fix it.
Yeah, sometimes its not completely clear where the noise is coming from. Most likely, it's the tensioners. I know the dealers like to push the VVT sprocket as well. They are 400 each times 4. I didnt replace mine and they seemed fine when i took it all apart. You might find a small shop that can do the work for a more fair price. I would do all 4 chains, 4 tensioners and 4 guides since you have it apart. You can get a complete kit of parts from Mellings for 390 bucks. They are good quality. Good luck with it!
@@danmccarthy206 All the parts for all 4 guides, tensioner and chains for only 400 bucks? Or is that times 4
@@clintwalker2596 the Toyota parts are expensive. 4 x 4 sprockets ar 400 bucks each is 1600. Plus the 4 chains, 4 tensioner and 4 chain guides are probably 2k for oem Toyota parts. Plus all the gaskets, antifreeze, etc. Plus labor. I paid about 325 for a timing chain "kit" that contains 4 chains, 4 tensioner and 4 guides. That's an aftermarket Mellings kit, not oem Toyota. The Toyota parts are always the best to use no doubt but the aftermarket stuff looks identical and they are all probably manufactured by the same place so, good enough for me. The labor is costly. Not sure how much time Toyota allows for the job but its probably 15hours or so? At 150 bucks an hour, labor adds up fast.
@@danmccarthy206 That's crazy expensive, may just be time to trade it for all that. The dealers I've talked to said they've never seen an issue like this, or have had a timing chain or tensioner replaced on a 5.7. I guess most just roll with it? Sounds like it's pretty rare occurrence and most probably don't even realize there's an issue. Seems like the odds of it causing engine failure is very low if you're just able to deal with it.
@@clintwalker2596 I would fix it sooner than later. The chain is loose when it's making noise and it could jump a tooth on the timing for that bank. If you plan to keep the truck, I would get it fixed before it jumps a tooth and you have a valve collision. If that happens, you'll see what expensive is.
Odd part is. I’ve owned 3 tundras and one sequoia. The sequoia and one tundra being a 2010 and sure enough it was the chain tensioner and vvt actuators on both. That was a odd year for the 5.7
I don't think so. The 5.7 has been the same since 2007 until now for the most part. Maybe they used a different vendor for those parts in 2010? Good question.
@@danmccarthy206 Having owned and maintained 18 Toyotas including the 2017 Tundra Trd pro I have now. I can confirm that they do change vendors based on the oem parts I’ve purchased. The quality seems to remain the same for the most part.
I strongly believe they had a bad run of tensioners that year as the majority of the complaints about this issue were for that model year.
After 2010-2011 you don’t hear about the issue as much. Then from 2014+ it’s negligible.
Also going by the other comments somewhat confirms this. Most of them seem to have the 2010
Bro you’re right. I’ve done enough digging to determine mode years 2010-2015 are susceptible to this. It always seems to happen right at 100k as well. Which is when most warranty stop covering your. Surprise surprise.
@@xdtrl3837 you’re entirely right. 2014s and it’s always at 100k
@@JB.1234 What's your oil change interval?
Is the chain noise the rattle or the diesel-ish combustion sound? Or does the chain cause both
The rattle.
Did you find out what the noise was? If so what fixed it?
th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html. The tensioners on the longer timing chains were stuck. I replaced them all.
Lifters? Exhuast leak?
Nope. Loose timing chain slapping against the plastic/nylon guides. Replaced it all. Silent now.
I have the same problem, I changed the entire chain and tensioner system and the same noise continues, what could it be?
It might be the VVT gears on the camshafts. Some folks have had to replace them because they make noise. Mine were fine. They are about 400 bucks each and there are 4 of them.
Try 5w-20 full synthetic Royal Purple oil
Here is a video of the tensioners being cut in half for inspection. th-cam.com/video/6scPpRqln7Y/w-d-xo.html
Hi
I have the same problem with my tundra
Could you tell me how fix this that problem
Please
See this video. th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
I have the issue on my 2010 tundra 122 k it’s the timing chain it will be very $$$$
Definitely sounds like a chain slapping, lack of oil pressure on tensioner. Drive it
Tensioner has gone bad
Alguien que me ayude porfavor tengo ese mismo problema en mi Toyota tundra 2011 hace 4 meses me le cambiaron la cadena del tiempo porque hacía ese ruido se le quitó pero ahora ya esta lo mismo hace como que es motor diésel
Talvez el problema es que solo te cambiaron la cadena del tiempo !! Esa Madre lleva varias parts sprocket tensador, ect es un kit completo de 3 cadenas deveria ir al taller a pedir garantia.
@@josethomas1054 lo hicieron pero ahora el mecánico dice que son los lister
@MiguelLopez-jy8no no pues ahi lo unico es llevarlo a un taller hacer strap vez el trabajo Desde cuando la Anda corriendo asi com ese problema
Got the same noise on my Lexus LX570 2015
Hey mate, is your fixed. Got the same issue on my 16 LX570
Hey man, did you fix this truck? What exactly was it? My 1016 is doing the EXACT same thing. Can u let me know? Appreciated
@@chrisluo4162 Yes, I replaced all 4 chains, 4 guides and 4 hydraulic tensioners. Only the two lower tensioners were "bad" but since I was so deep into the engine, I replaced all the timing parts so I never have to open it again. I didn't replace the 4 VVT's on the cams. Mine we good and they are $400 each! Here is the video of the replacement. www.tundras.com/threads/timing-chain-stretch.38764/
Only does when the engine is cold
That could be the exhaust manifolds. When they are cold, they shrink and any gaps will be larger and you may hear exhaust noise through those gaps. As the engine warms and expands, it can close those gaps up so you can't hear the leaking exhaust. That problem was actually pretty common on the 2000-2006 4.7L Tundra's.
So I have this same noise on my 280k 5.7l. But usually only at cold startup's but goes away within max 1 min after startup. Yours is a lot longer than 1min.. very likely the stuck/sticking tensioners have gone bad and need replacing if I have to arm chair mechanic guess it.
BTW before doing the tensioner replacement try the following
1. A few people have used some fuel additives to unstick the tensioners which worked...
2. also using correct weight oil (Mobile 1 I think is preferred)
3. and also putting enough oil in the engine as well like up to 8 qts for this big engine.
Hope that helps.
My tensioners had varnish on the plungers which caused them to sick and prevented them from pushing out against the chains when the oil pressure came up. If you can use some kind of oil flush to help dissolve the varnish, you can probably save yourself a bunch of money if varnish on the plunger is the root cause. ( I think in most cases, the hardware is fine, its just all varnished up) I tried a few oil flush products but I was a little worried that those products dilute the oil and reduce the effective lubricating properties of the oil. I don't know if it's enough to really cause any internal engine wear but I didn't want to find out the hard way. I use the 0-20 or 5-20 oil in my truck for the most part. It doesn't seem to make any difference in valvetrain noise. All the 5.7's have the same noisy top end but they still run fine.
I have the same noise but it doesn't go away when it warms up or when I drive it. Tundra only has 51K miles. As RPMs go up noise gets worse. It's more loke a tick tock sound, almost identical pattern to turn signal at idle.
Your guides are shot
Pague estilo pompa