👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻, I've have the 2.5 Metalcloak Game Changer lift on my JK 2 dr for 8 yrs with 45k miles and it's still tight as a drum, though outfitting overland "gear" the springs needed replacing. I went with 4.5 in the rear and 3.5 in the front as the majority of the weight was back. Fully loaded it sits level now and a decent height with a firm ride, unlike the stock suspension..
I did the Clayton Overland + 2.5" kit on my diesel Gladiator, and I've been really happy with it. I found out they did their testing with the Fox shocks, which made the choice even easier as I had decided on using the 2.5" remote res Fox's on the front and rear. The only thing was a month or so after I got everything on I found out they came out with a diesel specific kit (basically the only change was a heavier duty front spring). I'll probably grab a set of those diesel specific springs at some point.
Hi - would you recommend the Fox shocks? I'm looking to get the 2.5" Clayton overlanding lift but can't decide on the shocks. I have a set of practically new Falcon 3.3 Adj Schocks from my prior Wrangler, but they are sooo stiff, that I'm looking for something smoother. Fox came to mind. I also run 35x12.5R17 and I use my Wrangler mainly for overlanding - washboard roads, gravel, occasional rock garden.
@@joegenshlea6827 I would highly recommend them. They are a little pricey, but well worth the extra money. The Falcons are nice, but I’ve heard more than a few stories on them - one from the main guy at a highly respected shop I’ve used in the past. When I talked to Clayton, they let me know their R&D on all their products is done using Fox shocks. I got the ones with the dual adjuster, and I could fine tune them for different circumstances (like towing) far beyond what I’ve been able to do with the Icons I’ve had on other vehicles.
@@cobblecrazy Thanks for the tip. I'm looking at the 2.0 with the resevoir. I may splurge on the 2.5s. I have a 4xe so it's heavy like yours, just makes the whole outfitting that much more difficult lol
This discussion comes down to matching lift components to your use case and is why people end up with suspension kits with mixed components. Thanks for sharing your experience and I think this review could be helped by noting the actual spring rates for each company’s springs instead of describing one as saggy and another less so. Facts are that Clayton springs are a higher spring rate and will work better for an overland type build that carries more weight on the vehicle. The down side is a firmer ride in your daily driving if you don’t carry all the extra weight of racks and roof top tent all the the time. All of them have Tradeoffs and key is to minimize the Tradeoffs to your setup.
There's a warranty recall on those RK joints. (Should help with resale) I'm still running my triple rate 3.5 coils with their upgraded shocks on my two door BUT with MetalCloak arms and notice some sag in the rear even with angle correction capture hardware from MetalCloak on the rear. I have a RK front track bar and have already rebuilt it twice.
Air bags are popular but they’re just one more thing that can fail - not a big deal when you’re wheeling for the day with your buddies but fairly significant when you’re miles away from pavement. Even if you didn’t need them now, you definitely would have needed stiffer springs if/when you get a LRA auxiliary fuel tank. It goes to show you the importance of stopping occasionally during your build to really evaluate whether what you’re doing/running is truly working for what your end goal is. I’m on my 3rd (and final) set of rear springs as my build has progressed.
Did you get the triangulated 4 link with your rock krawler suspension. idk about there shocks but that and there arms are super strong. the 4 link lets the gladiator rear end actually flex instead of getting bound up. I would rather get the RK stuff and then install proper springs and shocks for the weight. Coils aren't rated in inches of lift they are measured in length and spring rate.
Hey Matt, great channel, been watching everything lately while dreaming of building my own rig before I retire. Any chance of a video comparing bead locked vs non bead locked wheels/tires?
@OzarkOverlandAdventures wow that's interesting based on all of your videos I have watched and some of your other buddies channels as well. Do you find that would be more necessary if Rock Crawler dedicated rig? I love to hear your insight. My 21 JLUR is going in the shop for an Overland build and sure a sure still a daily driver but I'm retired so gonna be Overlanding a lot!! I've seen you take your rig on some serious trails more in line with Rock crawling when you've taken some friends to Moab and wow interesting to hear you say you don't have beadlocks. I am a Newbie what an amazing Midlife Awakening and now a Jeeper for Life. I would like to hear your perspective about this topic if you have the time. Thx!
We have built several Jeeps (Wranglers) over the years. I've always been a fan of Rock Krawler... their progressive springs ride so nicely. But, I am really looking at the Clayton Overland kit for our 2021 JL Rubi (2 Door). This video definitely helped me make up my mind.
I have been doing a ton if research for my build...although a daily driver I am early retired so no daily commuting. Plan for a lot of Overlanding. Was more convinced I have made the correct choice once again after seeing Matt follow thru with getting the Clayton Overland + as he had mentioned how impressed he was with it in Cara's install video, then his compare and contrast to Rock Krawler in this video was great to actually SEE, as Rock Krawler is what my shop was recommending, seeing the Clayton Overland + install on his wife, Cara's, JLUR and her telling me she loves it when i asked her, Brad @TrailRecon also put it on his Overland rig, @Coddiwomple also switched to the Clayton Overland + kit. I am definitely sold. Great video Matt. Thank you! ✌️
I may be in the market for another set of springs, as my Metal Cloak springs are starting to sag. I might have to give them a shot. I however love my synergy control arms - adjustment is super easy!
Hi Matt! This video closed the deal I think. I narrowed my two choices to the Teraflex 2.5" CT lift or the Clayton 2.5" Overlander lift. I have a set of Falcon 3.3 shocks from my prior Jeep that I don't like. They are SOOO stiff, even on the "1" setting. Could you share what shock you're running? You mentioned "Bilstein" in the video but you didn't say the model. 5100? 8100? Something else? Like you, my use case is overlanding, however I don't do as much rock-crawling as you seem to do, so I run 35" wheels on my Wrangler 4xe.
Should have waited and got the Rock Krawler 3.0 Adventure Pro. Quad rate rear springs. I removed the Clayton and installed the Adventure Pro. Drives substantially better on the road than the Clayton
Lite Brite claims in an old video the 38 Patagonia are not as good as the 37 because the tread blocks are closer together (less mud cleanout). You notice any difference?
When you installed the Clayton adjustable track bar and mounted the 38” tire underneath, did you have to remove the metal shield between the spare and exhaust?
What size bump stops did you go with? I'm running the clayton 3.5" overland kit on 37x12.5 and the bump stops that came with the kit and am very close to the fenders currently, but really want to go up to 38x13.5s. I also have a rubicon with the stock fenders.
I was wondering about the premium vs the overland lifts. Even though its 2 differemt vehicles, do you see better articulation with the johnny joints on the gladiator vs the wrangler?
Great review. My buddy has the Clayton 3.5" kit on his gladiator and we hit some hard trails and it performs outstanding. He also tows a pretty heavy trailer, around 4K with little sag if any. I had rock krawler on my JKU which I loved but joints do go bad fast. While I wanted to go Clayton went with Metalcloak and may swap the springs with clayton in future. I have a relatively light trailer 1.2K lbs so I'll se how it goes.
Idk if you have some kind of sponsorship with Milestar or not but it makes me wonder why you still run those in terrain you are on most of the time. Im sure they do excellent out in moab and such but I only ran them on my gladiator (37s) for about a week before switching back to my Micky Thompson baja boss MTs. A trail I regularly run required me to lock up front and back with the Milestars and I can do unlocked with the MT's. Don't get me wrong, Liked the way the milestars drove and gained some MPG but they just didn't like the muddy trails in Kentucky.
I have been very happy with the Milestars in mud and we have a lot of it in the Ozarks. The only time I've had issues when the tread has worn down. I run the milestars because they are my favorite tire I've wheeled in Arkansas, Kentucky, New Mexico, Colorado, Tennessee, Utah and Michigan. And I've run Toyo AT, MT, Nitto Trail Graps, Ridge Graps, and Mastercraft MXTs to personally compare them to.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures I find that very interesting you say it out flexes it. If they’re the same height they should articulate the same on extension. Actually compression travel should be increased(to coil bind) with a lighter rate (smaller coils) as wheel loads compress the springs easier with a lighter rate(less resistance).
Had RK on my 2016 JK and loved it although the joints did get loose pretty quickly. On my 2021 Gladiator Mojave I went with a 3.5 Clayton Overland Plus and it's a perfect pairing with the Gladiator.
Your video quality and audio quality is nice. May I ask what you use for video and audio? Also, do you use special settings, shutter speed, color profiles, and color grade or do you simply record on automatic settings ?
I'm putting on my 3.5 clayton lift next week and changing out the drive shafts. I've been told the clayton 3.5 lift is actually closer to 4 inches. Did you change out your shafts or are you still running factory?
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures damn. no wonder I am unhappy with the overall stiffness of the suspension. Spoke to Evo and they told stiff springs in the rear of the JT tent to pop out easily, they recommended coilovers. what do you think?
I had legit questions regarding your axles and my comment was deleted. Are you running stock axles? Any upgrades to them or issues running such large tires and using your Jeep as intended?
Can you tell me why you choose Clayton's "Premium" lift kit over the "Overland" kit? Were the springs or shocks different? I saw the $550 bump,but couldn't tell what you got for that? Thanks cheers
The control arm joints are different. They provide more flex than the joints on the Overland kit. However the joints do need to be maintained where the Overland kit is maintenance free.
Oh OK I missed that part in your video. CARA put the Oveland + on her JLUR correct? You choose the Premium which I missed that key detail in your video. If I'm building a 21 JLUR to be used for Overlanding and a minimal daily driver as I am retired and plan is be on traveling a long time with no deadline. Overlanding my 21 JLUR pulling a Off Grid Trailer based on your experience your wife's build and her pulling a offroad trailer now as well etc, my plans for long offroad time across the country, from the GSMs to trails across Wyoming and Colorado and all in between, would you recommend the Overland + or the Premium on my 21 JLUR rig build? Ty in advance Goong in the shop soon for build.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have a pretty similar setup, except mine is a diesel, and sagging is a major issue in the rear of mine now. I am putting together a Clayton lift and there is an option for HD Rear springs. Did you go with the HD or the standard rear springs?
Great video on some real world experiences, sometimes one specific kit or attribute to a kit is not tailored to ones personal goal for their vehicle which sounds like what you had when adding a bunch of weight to the back with your gear. I like watching informational stuff on here so in no way take this as me trying to bust your ass but I did notice you said a couple things that are either misleading to some people or just not acutely stated. So you mentioned you had the same exact shock on both kits, you added more bump stop to the Clayton kit, and you say you have more flex. So how can you gain more flex out of a vehicle with the same shock? You just stated you took away travel from the same length shock by adding more bump stop. So by math that means you have less flex because you now have less travel. Unless something else with your shock mounting changed from one kit to the other that I'm not gathering because you didn't mention it.
Thanks! No worries at all. I said I needed to add more bump stop because I was getting more up travel with the Clayton vs the RK. Not sure of the RK links were binding more to limit up travel or what but I was definitely rubbing more in the flares with the Clayton lift than the RK.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures You also changed to a larger tire at the same time as the Clayton kit you said, correct? So the tire diameter increased meaning at the shocks complete compression the tire now rubbed the fender (where it did not rub the fender at complete compression before) and you had to add bump stop to eliminate that rub which would mean you just decreased the distance the shock can travel. In order to say the RK arms bound up limiting your flex you would have had to confirm that your shocks, in the old setup, were not reaching full compression. Was that the case or are you just basing that "more flex" statement off of the fact that with a different kit and different tire you now had fender rub? Because that's not necessarily proving the Clayton kit has more flex. If the shock is identical and the shock mounting points didn't change, the axle can only physically move the exact same amount. If it was using the entire shock travel before and you now have more bump stop with the same shock, you lost flex. I'm not arguing that it doesn't meet your expectations better with the new setup, just that from what I gather it sounds like you didn't actually gain any travel (flex) but lost some.
Did you upgrade your driveshaft with your 3.5" lift? I am getting conflicting info and you actually offroad yours which is my plan. My JT gets delivered today!
I had upgraded my drive shaft with the 3" lift. If you're going to off road it and flex it out it's a matter of when, not if, the factory shaft is going to go bad on you.
I've never run Metalcloak but I've heard they don't hold up to the added weight very well either. Metalcloak would be great for a rock crawler but maybe not for a heavier overland rig.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures I’ve heard good things about the Tera flex kit. Getting that lift installed next week. Hope it rides and performs as good as they say. I was stuck between Clayton and teraflex for the new gladiator
@@RaceMentally teraflex is definitely a great lift and very happy with it. Have already gone to Moab and Colorado with the new 3.5 lift. Rides great on and off road
I wish you woulda waiting till after Memorial Day I was hoping they would have a sale, now since your so popular everything will be on backorder 😜😜😜😜 haha!
Lots of gaslighting and double speak in this. Im not buying what you’re selling, most of it doesn’t make sense and is completely misleading. Clayton is a great lift but you don’t have to make RK look bad just to sell Clayton. I’m sure there are a lot of new jeepers who will bite so good luck with the sponsored content, hope you make a lot of money.
Gaslighting and double speak? 😂😂😂 that’s hilarious!! Joke on you dude. I don’t make a dime if someone purchases Clayton over Rock Krawler. I’m just sharing my real world experience and I think I was pretty clear. Thanks for watching.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures No the joke is comparing joints you have trailed for 20k to joints with 2k, saying that Clayton joints are rebuildable(implying RK aren’t, not realizing that those joints were revamped, buying springs and acting as if sag shouldn’t happen when adding payload and/or pulling a trailer, also you should have read RK and paid attention to the manufacturer upon purchase of that was your OG intentions because RK states plainly that added spring height is needed if adding serious payload. Clayton is a great lift but so is RK, like I said no need to trash them because you didn’t purchase right the first time.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures I have not personally ran both lifts. I have had RK lifts on several vehicles. Look, maybe i came on strong, I’m not trying to troll or be a dick. Just saying I felt your video was a little over the top. Most people, who truly live the jeep life, wind up with a blend of different components that Taylor their ride. You compared one of RK’s cheapest lifts to Clayton’s top end lift. If you would have spent the same money on the RK lift, you would have a triangulated 4 link in the back end of your Truck. So, I’m saying you aren’t comparing apples to apples. Show me a KOH or a Baja 1000 win with a Clayton suspension. All I’m saying.
Great, great, great video!!! I've been seeing all of the hype about Clayton....this video.....Now I get it!!! Thank you!!!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻, I've have the 2.5 Metalcloak Game Changer lift on my JK 2 dr for 8 yrs with 45k miles and it's still tight as a drum, though outfitting overland "gear" the springs needed replacing. I went with 4.5 in the rear and 3.5 in the front as the majority of the weight was back. Fully loaded it sits level now and a decent height with a firm ride, unlike the stock suspension..
Some good points. I LOVE my RK Pro X kit on my JTR but worried about spring longevity. She's squishy! 😆
I did the Clayton Overland + 2.5" kit on my diesel Gladiator, and I've been really happy with it. I found out they did their testing with the Fox shocks, which made the choice even easier as I had decided on using the 2.5" remote res Fox's on the front and rear. The only thing was a month or so after I got everything on I found out they came out with a diesel specific kit (basically the only change was a heavier duty front spring). I'll probably grab a set of those diesel specific springs at some point.
What size tire are you running?
@@dwook1234 35x12.5 17’s
Hi - would you recommend the Fox shocks? I'm looking to get the 2.5" Clayton overlanding lift but can't decide on the shocks. I have a set of practically new Falcon 3.3 Adj Schocks from my prior Wrangler, but they are sooo stiff, that I'm looking for something smoother. Fox came to mind.
I also run 35x12.5R17 and I use my Wrangler mainly for overlanding - washboard roads, gravel, occasional rock garden.
@@joegenshlea6827 I would highly recommend them. They are a little pricey, but well worth the extra money. The Falcons are nice, but I’ve heard more than a few stories on them - one from the main guy at a highly respected shop I’ve used in the past. When I talked to Clayton, they let me know their R&D on all their products is done using Fox shocks. I got the ones with the dual adjuster, and I could fine tune them for different circumstances (like towing) far beyond what I’ve been able to do with the Icons I’ve had on other vehicles.
@@cobblecrazy Thanks for the tip. I'm looking at the 2.0 with the resevoir. I may splurge on the 2.5s.
I have a 4xe so it's heavy like yours, just makes the whole outfitting that much more difficult lol
I love my Clayton Premium 2.5 inch lift on my ecodiesel Rubicon !!
Not any information that I need but I still enjoy watching. Keep it up Thanks! 👍🏼
This discussion comes down to matching lift components to your use case and is why people end up with suspension kits with mixed components.
Thanks for sharing your experience and I think this review could be helped by noting the actual spring rates for each company’s springs instead of describing one as saggy and another less so. Facts are that Clayton springs are a higher spring rate and will work better for an overland type build that carries more weight on the vehicle. The down side is a firmer ride in your daily driving if you don’t carry all the extra weight of racks and roof top tent all the the time. All of them have Tradeoffs and key is to minimize the Tradeoffs to your setup.
Well this dude is taking a whole house with him when he’s over landing. Guys are hilarious
Glad I ordered Clayton for my gladiator ecodiesel.. thanks Matt
There's a warranty recall on those RK joints.
(Should help with resale)
I'm still running my triple rate 3.5 coils with their upgraded shocks on my two door BUT with MetalCloak arms and notice some sag in the rear even with angle correction capture hardware from MetalCloak on the rear. I have a RK front track bar and have already rebuilt it twice.
Wow what a difference in those springs.
Air bags are popular but they’re just one more thing that can fail - not a big deal when you’re wheeling for the day with your buddies but fairly significant when you’re miles away from pavement. Even if you didn’t need them now, you definitely would have needed stiffer springs if/when you get a LRA auxiliary fuel tank. It goes to show you the importance of stopping occasionally during your build to really evaluate whether what you’re doing/running is truly working for what your end goal is. I’m on my 3rd (and final) set of rear springs as my build has progressed.
I went with EVO 2.5" lift for my JT overland rig..used Ram 1500 springs in the back. HAVE Too.
EVO is the best
Did you get the triangulated 4 link with your rock krawler suspension. idk about there shocks but that and there arms are super strong. the 4 link lets the gladiator rear end actually flex instead of getting bound up. I would rather get the RK stuff and then install proper springs and shocks for the weight. Coils aren't rated in inches of lift they are measured in length and spring rate.
Hey Matt, great channel, been watching everything lately while dreaming of building my own rig before I retire. Any chance of a video comparing bead locked vs non bead locked wheels/tires?
i've never run a beadlock wheel. Never had a need to.
@OzarkOverlandAdventures wow that's interesting based on all of your videos I have watched and some of your other buddies channels as well. Do you find that would be more necessary if Rock Crawler dedicated rig? I love to hear your insight. My 21 JLUR is going in the shop for an Overland build and sure a sure still a daily driver but I'm retired so gonna be Overlanding a lot!! I've seen you take your rig on some serious trails more in line with Rock crawling when you've taken some friends to Moab and wow interesting to hear you say you don't have beadlocks. I am a Newbie what an amazing Midlife Awakening and now a Jeeper for Life. I would like to hear your perspective about this topic if you have the time. Thx!
Great real world honest comparisons with pros n cons for each. Thank you!
We have built several Jeeps (Wranglers) over the years. I've always been a fan of Rock Krawler... their progressive springs ride so nicely. But, I am really looking at the Clayton Overland kit for our 2021 JL Rubi (2 Door). This video definitely helped me make up my mind.
I have been doing a ton if research for my build...although a daily driver I am early retired so no daily commuting. Plan for a lot of Overlanding. Was more convinced I have made the correct choice once again after seeing Matt follow thru with getting the Clayton Overland + as he had mentioned how impressed he was with it in Cara's install video, then his compare and contrast to Rock Krawler in this video was great to actually SEE, as Rock Krawler is what my shop was recommending, seeing the Clayton Overland + install on his wife, Cara's, JLUR and her telling me she loves it when i asked her, Brad @TrailRecon also put it on his Overland rig, @Coddiwomple also switched to the Clayton Overland + kit. I am definitely sold. Great video Matt. Thank you! ✌️
I may be in the market for another set of springs, as my Metal Cloak springs are starting to sag. I might have to give them a shot. I however love my synergy control arms - adjustment is super easy!
Hi Matt! This video closed the deal I think. I narrowed my two choices to the Teraflex 2.5" CT lift or the Clayton 2.5" Overlander lift.
I have a set of Falcon 3.3 shocks from my prior Jeep that I don't like. They are SOOO stiff, even on the "1" setting.
Could you share what shock you're running? You mentioned "Bilstein" in the video but you didn't say the model. 5100? 8100? Something else?
Like you, my use case is overlanding, however I don't do as much rock-crawling as you seem to do, so I run 35" wheels on my Wrangler 4xe.
diggin' the new low profile tail lights 😎👍
Should have waited and got the Rock Krawler 3.0 Adventure Pro. Quad rate rear springs. I removed the Clayton and installed the Adventure Pro. Drives substantially better on the road than the Clayton
Very helpful and probably persuaded me to go with Clayton
What shock would you pair the Clayton with?
Lite Brite claims in an old video the 38 Patagonia are not as good as the 37 because the tread blocks are closer together (less mud cleanout). You notice any difference?
I saw that video. These are the new MT02 version. Not sure how the tread block spacing compares. I haven’t seen a set of 37s to compare them to.
Any thoughts from an overlanding viewpoint on the Dobinson system?
I've never used them or known anyone that has other than on Toyotas and they like them.
Did you run with the HD rear springs? I have same rig and set up but was going to also put a dirt bike on the back rear hitch
I do have the HD rear springs now. I didn't at the beginning. They make a difference.
I like the limited amount of tire width exposed from your fenders .. you stated 38 x 13.5 tires what is your wheel size and offset ?
Wheels are 17x9 with -12 offset.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures thanks
When you installed the Clayton adjustable track bar and mounted the 38” tire underneath, did you have to remove the metal shield between the spare and exhaust?
Nope. It’s still there.
I'm glad you're calling this out . Lots of Wranglers I see have suspension that's too "squishy".
Edit : yep. You said it lol.
If your goal was overlanding, why not go with the Mojave? Same Dana’s, rear locker, better Fox shocks with reservoirs, same 4:10 gears
Because front locker, better transfer case, sway bar disconnect, and I was replacing the suspension anyway and running 38s.
What size bump stops did you go with? I'm running the clayton 3.5" overland kit on 37x12.5 and the bump stops that came with the kit and am very close to the fenders currently, but really want to go up to 38x13.5s. I also have a rubicon with the stock fenders.
I was wondering about the premium vs the overland lifts. Even though its 2 differemt vehicles, do you see better articulation with the johnny joints on the gladiator vs the wrangler?
Just slightly but honestly not enough to make a difference.
What wheel and tires specs do you have? I’m going to 3” lift and 37” x 12.5 tires but not sure about wheel specs I need. I have a Sport with max tow.
Not me on the Clayton website after this
Are those tail lights stock or aftermarket? I’d love something like that on mine.
They are aftermarket. They are made by Oracle.
Great review. My buddy has the Clayton 3.5" kit on his gladiator and we hit some hard trails and it performs outstanding. He also tows a pretty heavy trailer, around 4K with little sag if any. I had rock krawler on my JKU which I loved but joints do go bad fast. While I wanted to go Clayton went with Metalcloak and may swap the springs with clayton in future. I have a relatively light trailer 1.2K lbs so I'll se how it goes.
Idk if you have some kind of sponsorship with Milestar or not but it makes me wonder why you still run those in terrain you are on most of the time. Im sure they do excellent out in moab and such but I only ran them on my gladiator (37s) for about a week before switching back to my Micky Thompson baja boss MTs. A trail I regularly run required me to lock up front and back with the Milestars and I can do unlocked with the MT's. Don't get me wrong, Liked the way the milestars drove and gained some MPG but they just didn't like the muddy trails in Kentucky.
I have been very happy with the Milestars in mud and we have a lot of it in the Ozarks. The only time I've had issues when the tread has worn down. I run the milestars because they are my favorite tire I've wheeled in Arkansas, Kentucky, New Mexico, Colorado, Tennessee, Utah and Michigan. And I've run Toyo AT, MT, Nitto Trail Graps, Ridge Graps, and Mastercraft MXTs to personally compare them to.
I’m wondering if a spacer and the rock crawler would’ve been better. Lighter rate is really good for flex.
Spacers don’t add articulation. I can tell you with certainty the Clayton out flexes the RK.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures I find that very interesting you say it out flexes it. If they’re the same height they should articulate the same on extension. Actually compression travel should be increased(to coil bind) with a lighter rate (smaller coils) as wheel loads compress the springs easier with a lighter rate(less resistance).
@@RaceMentally 🤷🏼♂️ Just telling you my experience
Had RK on my 2016 JK and loved it although the joints did get loose pretty quickly.
On my 2021 Gladiator Mojave I went with a 3.5 Clayton Overland Plus and it's a perfect pairing with the Gladiator.
Your video quality and audio quality is nice. May I ask what you use for video and audio? Also, do you use special settings, shutter speed, color
profiles, and color grade or do you simply record on automatic settings ?
I'm putting on my 3.5 clayton lift next week and changing out the drive shafts. I've been told the clayton 3.5 lift is actually closer to 4 inches. Did you change out your shafts or are you still running factory?
the clayton coil springs you have are they the HD ones
Not in this video but I just switched to them and love them.
did you receive the Clayton for as sponsor ?
Wondering the same
He has a five percent discount code, so I’m guessing there’s some sort of relationship…
Nice video - in a similar situation with my overland built JT. Have you weighed your truck? I'm at 8800 lbs fully loaded.
I have. I was about 6800. Just a little over gvwr.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures damn. no wonder I am unhappy with the overall stiffness of the suspension. Spoke to Evo and they told stiff springs in the rear of the JT tent to pop out easily, they recommended coilovers. what do you think?
I had legit questions regarding your axles and my comment was deleted. Are you running stock axles? Any upgrades to them or issues running such large tires and using your Jeep as intended?
that's odd. I replied to your question. Axles are stock. The JL/JT Rubicon axles are much stronger than the JK axles.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures thanks!
Can you tell me why you choose Clayton's "Premium" lift kit over the "Overland" kit? Were the springs or shocks different? I saw the $550 bump,but couldn't tell what you got for that? Thanks cheers
The control arm joints are different. They provide more flex than the joints on the Overland kit. However the joints do need to be maintained where the Overland kit is maintenance free.
Oh OK I missed that part in your video. CARA put the Oveland + on her JLUR correct? You choose the Premium which I missed that key detail in your video. If I'm building a 21 JLUR to be used for Overlanding and a minimal daily driver as I am retired and plan is be on traveling a long time with no deadline. Overlanding my 21 JLUR pulling a Off Grid Trailer based on your experience your wife's build and her pulling a offroad trailer now as well etc, my plans for long offroad time across the country, from the GSMs to trails across Wyoming and Colorado and all in between, would you recommend the Overland + or the Premium on my 21 JLUR rig build? Ty in advance
Goong in the shop soon for build.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have a pretty similar setup, except mine is a diesel, and sagging is a major issue in the rear of mine now. I am putting together a Clayton lift and there is an option for HD Rear springs. Did you go with the HD or the standard rear springs?
I don't remember having an option for an HD rear. So not sure.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures No worries, thanks.
Can you use your stock shocks with the clayton lift? I noticed its pretty pricey lift with no shocks included
You'll want longer shocks to go with the lift. Don't go cheap on the most important thing that determines ride quality and handling.
Great video on some real world experiences, sometimes one specific kit or attribute to a kit is not tailored to ones personal goal for their vehicle which sounds like what you had when adding a bunch of weight to the back with your gear. I like watching informational stuff on here so in no way take this as me trying to bust your ass but I did notice you said a couple things that are either misleading to some people or just not acutely stated. So you mentioned you had the same exact shock on both kits, you added more bump stop to the Clayton kit, and you say you have more flex. So how can you gain more flex out of a vehicle with the same shock? You just stated you took away travel from the same length shock by adding more bump stop. So by math that means you have less flex because you now have less travel. Unless something else with your shock mounting changed from one kit to the other that I'm not gathering because you didn't mention it.
Thanks! No worries at all. I said I needed to add more bump stop because I was getting more up travel with the Clayton vs the RK. Not sure of the RK links were binding more to limit up travel or what but I was definitely rubbing more in the flares with the Clayton lift than the RK.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures You also changed to a larger tire at the same time as the Clayton kit you said, correct? So the tire diameter increased meaning at the shocks complete compression the tire now rubbed the fender (where it did not rub the fender at complete compression before) and you had to add bump stop to eliminate that rub which would mean you just decreased the distance the shock can travel. In order to say the RK arms bound up limiting your flex you would have had to confirm that your shocks, in the old setup, were not reaching full compression. Was that the case or are you just basing that "more flex" statement off of the fact that with a different kit and different tire you now had fender rub? Because that's not necessarily proving the Clayton kit has more flex. If the shock is identical and the shock mounting points didn't change, the axle can only physically move the exact same amount. If it was using the entire shock travel before and you now have more bump stop with the same shock, you lost flex. I'm not arguing that it doesn't meet your expectations better with the new setup, just that from what I gather it sounds like you didn't actually gain any travel (flex) but lost some.
With the 3.5" lift did you have to get a new front drive shaft?
Eventually yes.
Hi Matt! Did you replace your front driveshaft with this setup or do u feel like it's needed?
Yes I have. If you’re gonna wheel it you’ll definitely need a new driveshaft. It’s a matter of when, not if the factory driveshaft will go bad.
Thanks Matt! I know you knew about every weak point on the gladiator when lifting and wheeling it.
Did you upgrade your driveshaft with your 3.5" lift? I am getting conflicting info and you actually offroad yours which is my plan. My JT gets delivered today!
I had upgraded my drive shaft with the 3" lift. If you're going to off road it and flex it out it's a matter of when, not if, the factory shaft is going to go bad on you.
Awesome, thanks for the quick reply, love your content! My wife has a Tuscadero JLU so that is how we found you lol
Where can I buy the kit for my eco diecel 2022
I believe Clayton makes a kit for the diesel.
What is your axle width, or are you on stock Dana 44s?
They are stock Rubicon axles.
Hi Matt. How are liking the Clayton 3.5” plus lift after a while? What shocks are you running?
Love it!!!! Highly recommend. I have the Elka adjustable remote reservoir shocks.
Any change in your opinion after 2 years?
Nope. LOVE Clayton!!
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures Awesome. Thanks for the vid and feedback.
3.5 clayton vs. 3.5 Metalcloak coils?
I've never run Metalcloak but I've heard they don't hold up to the added weight very well either. Metalcloak would be great for a rock crawler but maybe not for a heavier overland rig.
So basically, you didn't plan ahead for your fitout correctly?
Didn’t know what I didn’t know. 🤷🏼♂️
Clayton 3.5 or teraflex 3.5?
I have no experience with the Teraflex but I hear their Alpine arms are very nice.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures I’ve heard good things about the Tera flex kit. Getting that lift installed next week. Hope it rides and performs as good as they say. I was stuck between Clayton and teraflex for the new gladiator
@@off-roadskys4250 update?
@@RaceMentally teraflex is definitely a great lift and very happy with it. Have already gone to Moab and Colorado with the new 3.5 lift. Rides great on and off road
I bet your roll stability is WAY up.
I wish you woulda waiting till after Memorial Day I was hoping they would have a sale, now since your so popular everything will be on backorder 😜😜😜😜 haha!
LOVE😍Could you please check the email from me, thanks!😊
Lots of gaslighting and double speak in this. Im not buying what you’re selling, most of it doesn’t make sense and is completely misleading. Clayton is a great lift but you don’t have to make RK look bad just to sell Clayton. I’m sure there are a lot of new jeepers who will bite so good luck with the sponsored content, hope you make a lot of money.
Gaslighting and double speak? 😂😂😂 that’s hilarious!! Joke on you dude. I don’t make a dime if someone purchases Clayton over Rock Krawler. I’m just sharing my real world experience and I think I was pretty clear. Thanks for watching.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures No the joke is comparing joints you have trailed for 20k to joints with 2k, saying that Clayton joints are rebuildable(implying RK aren’t, not realizing that those joints were revamped, buying springs and acting as if sag shouldn’t happen when adding payload and/or pulling a trailer, also you should have read RK and paid attention to the manufacturer upon purchase of that was your OG intentions because RK states plainly that added spring height is needed if adding serious payload.
Clayton is a great lift but so is RK, like I said no need to trash them because you didn’t purchase right the first time.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures not buying your flex claim either.
@@PUGLIA_JO you don’t have to agree with me. Doesn’t bother me at all. I am curious if you have run both Clayton and RK lifts.
@@OzarkOverlandAdventures I have not personally ran both lifts. I have had RK lifts on several vehicles. Look, maybe i came on strong, I’m not trying to troll or be a dick. Just saying I felt your video was a little over the top. Most people, who truly live the jeep life, wind up with a blend of different components that Taylor their ride.
You compared one of RK’s cheapest lifts to Clayton’s top end lift. If you would have spent the same money on the RK lift, you would have a triangulated 4 link in the back end of your Truck. So, I’m saying you aren’t comparing apples to apples.
Show me a KOH or a Baja 1000 win with a Clayton suspension. All I’m saying.