This is the video I was hoping to find!! You answered the exact questions I had, which I could not find anywhere else (including from the manufacturer of my hardtail kit, which is wild). Thank you!
My only concern with the priorities is if your hardtail isn't square to the frame, you shouldn't start out by centering the wheel. You should KNOW without a doubt that the center of the neck is in line with the exact midpoint of the axle. I know this because i bought a frame with a hardtail installed once, and it was off a BUNCH. Took some work, but the wheel was true when i was done, and with some creative bending on the sissybar, it was very hard to tell
I have to disagree a little bit....your rear wheel does not have to be perfectly centered between the axle plates....an offset is acceptable and sometimes unavoidable.most important is that the wheel is parallel with the centerline of the frame and the front wheel.bottom line make sure your wheels are both pointing straight
This was a great video , couple of things I read throughout my journey hardtailing my shovel was that sprocket alignment was key. I used a stock shovel rear wheel and a stock small dished 51t sprocket and when I ran a string line down my wheel is approximately 3/16th of an inch toward the brake side of the bike . With the wheel centered the sprocket is to far toward the frame . This tells me that the bikes from the factory did not have perfect center alignment. I guess I will find out if it tracks funny... the general masses on the web seems to think it will be a non issue though.
Thanks, Grease. Concerning axle mods; yes, an easy job for a competent machinist. If you venture into making axles, in layman's metalleurgic terms, grade 5 is preferable to grade 8. Bending and stretching is way better than cracking and breaking. Don't use unknown steels. Just sayin'.
You know that’s a great question. I’m not sure honestly why the kits are sold that way. I made mine out of stainless so you can definitely use that. Maybe it’s just so it’s easier for the average person to cut it? Being that aluminum is so soft
When using the sharpie method, in many applications, I prefer to smear some localised sharpie and make my mark with a scriber. It's not much, but 'start better finish better'.
I've been wondering if my rear has been a little off. Thought my brakes had been sticking but i think alignment may not be perfect. Gonna use these methods to see if spacing is my issue. Has just been trusting the spacing it had when i bought it hardtailed.
About machine shops. Where i worked, i did most of the lathe and mill work. When i retired, that part of my job was contracted out. Young people today aren't learning machinist trade. Ive taught my kids all i know. They just need practice now. Very good explanation of spacers and centering.
I have a friend in his late 60’s who did his whole career as a manual machinist and has said many times that the manual side of the trade is disappearing. Both in people who can/want to do it and in companies even wanting to do it at all. Do you agree with that sentiment? Did you do manual and CNC?
@greasesgarage sadly most companies are only going with cnc machines. If a machine wears out its replaced with cnc. Not many trade schools that even offer manual machining classes, cnc yes. So kids, even young adults have no clue even on the basics. Used manual lathes and mills can be purchased for very reasonable prices now. People just don't want them now, owners are getting old and selling. I'm kind of rambling. I started and learned on an old manual Southbend lathe. I was 19 I think. I have used all three manual, NC, and CNC. I made engine parts for Mack that was all CNC. FN was manual mills. Clearly my home machines are manual.
Dude, your videos are awesome! All those dumb little maintenance/modification jobs are much easier after watching your channel. My tires are very old and since I am going to replace them, I'll take the opportunity to change the rims as well and I was wondering about the process. Now I know. Thanks!
Light at the end of the tunnel. I was stacking washers to keep axle stick out symmetrical and prayed it would work. Thanks for blazing the trail on that.
Doesn’t a lot of this go out the window if you’re using a asymmetrical frame like one to accommodate a wide tire especially when centering the wheel to the frame
I bought a custom bike. Has a 180 tire on the rear. Bought a new chain. Lined it all up square and the chain rubbed the tire. I attempted to realign everything a dozen times. I was going crazy. Took it to shop and found out it was built slightly off(out of align) to fit such a large tire. He added a dished sprocket and spacers , we’re good. Great video 👍
This is a great point, there are circumstances where a dished sprocket can be necessary but they’re more often the exception as opposed to the standard so for this video I kept it pretty basic. Glad you shared this though!
Just used this and your chain alignment video to get the rear wheel spacing right on my ‘73 flh stock swingarm frame. The previous owner had upgraded the brakes to ‘03 softail brakes, did a good job making the brake stay (I determined after watching your video on that), but never got the spacing right which I found after removing the rear fender and installing Baja tires. I had a hard time trying to mark the axle where I could read it, so I just pushed sewing tape through the axle to get the measurement which worked well. Thanks for your help!
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for making this video, it really helped me. You are a great teacher.
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate the kind words 🙏🏼 if you ever need a specific video in the future let me know
This is the video I was hoping to find!! You answered the exact questions I had, which I could not find anywhere else (including from the manufacturer of my hardtail kit, which is wild). Thank you!
I love to hear things like this, I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment 🙏🏼
My only concern with the priorities is if your hardtail isn't square to the frame, you shouldn't start out by centering the wheel. You should KNOW without a doubt that the center of the neck is in line with the exact midpoint of the axle.
I know this because i bought a frame with a hardtail installed once, and it was off a BUNCH. Took some work, but the wheel was true when i was done, and with some creative bending on the sissybar, it was very hard to tell
I have to disagree a little bit....your rear wheel does not have to be perfectly centered between the axle plates....an offset is acceptable and sometimes unavoidable.most important is that the wheel is parallel with the centerline of the frame and the front wheel.bottom line make sure your wheels are both pointing straight
I’m so glad you posted this I’m doing this step in about a week thank you
Perfect timing ⏱️
This was a great video , couple of things I read throughout my journey hardtailing my shovel was that sprocket alignment was key. I used a stock shovel rear wheel and a stock small dished 51t sprocket and when I ran a string line down my wheel is approximately 3/16th of an inch toward the brake side of the bike . With the wheel centered the sprocket is to far toward the frame . This tells me that the bikes from the factory did not have perfect center alignment. I guess I will find out if it tracks funny... the general masses on the web seems to think it will be a non issue though.
Thanks, Grease.
Concerning axle mods; yes, an easy job for a competent machinist.
If you venture into making axles, in layman's metalleurgic terms, grade 5 is preferable to grade 8. Bending and stretching is way better than cracking and breaking. Don't use unknown steels. Just sayin'.
That’s good to know! Very true, I certainly wouldn’t want to find out what happens when it breaks haha. Do you do axle mods?
Hey Grease. Why would spacers be aluminum? Its so soft. Wouldn't polished stainless steel be what you'd want?
You know that’s a great question. I’m not sure honestly why the kits are sold that way. I made mine out of stainless so you can definitely use that. Maybe it’s just so it’s easier for the average person to cut it? Being that aluminum is so soft
When using the sharpie method, in many applications, I prefer to smear some localised sharpie and make my mark with a scriber.
It's not much, but 'start better finish better'.
Good idea!
I've been wondering if my rear has been a little off. Thought my brakes had been sticking but i think alignment may not be perfect. Gonna use these methods to see if spacing is my issue. Has just been trusting the spacing it had when i bought it hardtailed.
Always a good idea to check, let me know what you find
About machine shops. Where i worked, i did most of the lathe and mill work. When i retired, that part of my job was contracted out. Young people today aren't learning machinist trade. Ive taught my kids all i know. They just need practice now. Very good explanation of spacers and centering.
I have a friend in his late 60’s who did his whole career as a manual machinist and has said many times that the manual side of the trade is disappearing. Both in people who can/want to do it and in companies even wanting to do it at all. Do you agree with that sentiment? Did you do manual and CNC?
@greasesgarage sadly most companies are only going with cnc machines. If a machine wears out its replaced with cnc. Not many trade schools that even offer manual machining classes, cnc yes. So kids, even young adults have no clue even on the basics. Used manual lathes and mills can be purchased for very reasonable prices now. People just don't want them now, owners are getting old and selling. I'm kind of rambling. I started and learned on an old manual Southbend lathe. I was 19 I think. I have used all three manual, NC, and CNC. I made engine parts for Mack that was all CNC. FN was manual mills. Clearly my home machines are manual.
Dude, your videos are awesome! All those dumb little maintenance/modification jobs are much easier after watching your channel. My tires are very old and since I am going to replace them, I'll take the opportunity to change the rims as well and I was wondering about the process. Now I know. Thanks!
Thank you Chip 🙏🏼
Light at the end of the tunnel. I was stacking washers to keep axle stick out symmetrical and prayed it would work. Thanks for blazing the trail on that.
Oh yea you’re good on that, flush to the axle head on the one side and spacer for the extra space on the opposite side 👍🏼
Doesn’t a lot of this go out the window if you’re using a asymmetrical frame like one to accommodate a wide tire especially when centering the wheel to the frame
It does, but wide tire occ style bikes aren’t something I feature on this channel so for that type of build I wouldn’t be suited to give any advice
Thanks for the great explanation for this kind of process. Keep the videos coming.
Glad to hear it came through as clear 🙏🏼 thanks for watching. Please share it with a friend who could use some help
Good video thanks!
I bought a custom bike. Has a 180 tire on the rear. Bought a new chain. Lined it all up square and the chain rubbed the tire. I attempted to realign everything a dozen times. I was going crazy. Took it to shop and found out it was built slightly off(out of align) to fit such a large tire. He added a dished sprocket and spacers , we’re good. Great video 👍
This is a great point, there are circumstances where a dished sprocket can be necessary but they’re more often the exception as opposed to the standard so for this video I kept it pretty basic. Glad you shared this though!
👍👍👍🏍️
In response to the machine shops... good machinists area leaving and becoming fabricators!!
But how will they talk about their tolerances?!?
Well if there weren't tolerances in fab before, there will be now!
@@djd34d14😂 exactly
This is a great video. I'm going to make a chopper build my winter project and this clear information is exactly what I need. Thanks!
Glad to hear it’s coming across clear, thanks for watching 🤘🏼
Just used this and your chain alignment video to get the rear wheel spacing right on my ‘73 flh stock swingarm frame. The previous owner had upgraded the brakes to ‘03 softail brakes, did a good job making the brake stay (I determined after watching your video on that), but never got the spacing right which I found after removing the rear fender and installing Baja tires. I had a hard time trying to mark the axle where I could read it, so I just pushed sewing tape through the axle to get the measurement which worked well. Thanks for your help!
That’s a great idea Mike! Glad you got it sorted 🤘🏼 thanks for checking out the videos I’m happy to hear they’ve been helpful 🙏🏼
Thanks for the video
Glad you enjoyed it 🙏🏼
Perfect explanation.
💯🫵🏼👍🏼🫡👊🏼✌🏼🇳🇱
Glad to hear it man! Thanks for watching