Another tip. I shrink wrapped wires with rare earth magnets to allow the wire to be strung along metal and stuck to the metal. Example towing a car with mounted temporary taillights. The wire from those taillights are stuck along the car's body to be plugged into the vehicle doing the towing.
Some great tips and techniques here👌. At the 2 minutes 40 seconds mark where you repair the broken arm on the spectacles if you add a piece of piano wire inside the heat shrink sleeve it will make the repaired arm much more robust and resistant to buckling under stress loads. For best user safety make sure the cut ends of the piano wire are fully covered inside the length of the shrink wrap tubing.
Also there is shrink tubing with heat-activated adhesives inside (as seen in most of these examples), and there is heat shrink WITHOUT that. The adhesive type will serve better for things needing sealing. The resistor example should really be demonstrated by having the piece of heat shrink slipped onto one wire BEFORE completing the soldering - a common example would be mending a damaged wire, where you can't slip it on from an end because the ends are already affixed to something. Keep it far enough back from the point you might be soldering so it does not shrink before you're ready to slide it over the joint and want to shrink it. Another application: screwdriver shafts so you're less likely to short out a screwdriver on something. Shrink tubing is available in much larger sizes, and can be used to encapsulate electronic components. I don't know that your black sealant goo was, but many silicone / RTV caulks and such contain acetic acid, which react with copper, so make sure what you're using doesn't have that.
The RCA end should have been completed a bit differently. The shield and cable jacket should have been crimped for a good strain relief and the whole thing could have been then heat shrink tubing out say two to three inches (2.5 to 5 cm) long for a good strain relief, but also utilizing the cover that threads in place over all of it.
Yep, 100% agree. The method shown is incorrect and would not be durable. The tabs at the end of the connector are meant to crimp over the cable insulation so when pulling/pushing the connector, the solder joints are not stressed.
@@Therapistinthewhitehouse From Wikipedia: "The name RCA derives from the company Radio Corporation of America, which introduced the design in the 1930s." See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector. RCA tip starts at 8:24.
The point of the video was using heat shrink. The RCA was specifically a repair. So assume you didnt have the screw on piece or crimping tools to put an rca end on properly, and all you had to repair it temporarily was heatshrink. How would you go about it differently?
If you had no way to get glasses I guess that would be a way to fix a broke the frame. One thing you could do a little different, cut another piece of plastic like a splint and then put the heat shrink tubing around both the splint and the glasses where you plan to join the two broke parts of the frame together and then heat shrink it. This would add much more strength.
Great video. I worked for raychem Corporation for 28 years the inventor of shrink tubing, now Tyco Electronics Endless Possibilities to shrink tubing used to irradiate the tubing with electron beams
Before putting heat shrink tube over protection glasses, put a little amount of hot glue in it, after that put that heat shrink sleeve on, and it would be totally perfect.
I’ve been buying glue lined heat shrink, which is fantastic. I bet you’re getting the same effect. Very strong, but you can’t peel it off if you want to redo it.
To panto. Extra large tube, cut length, place over, glue back together, flat bar inside at seam, fold bar over and over again rolling tube around it until fully covered or more, heat half "might try unravel so use finger on other half and only snug tube with heat", zip tie so flat bar don't flip undoing snug, repeat other side, give more heat to complete. Just an on the fly idea. If want more protection, add liquid electrical tape under joint but above bar. Don't know size of item but for flat bar can use popsicle stick and trim
Is that a bag/bottle of liquid also that would seal the same way he did? I was fond of the internet guys how they had a splice kit with gel inside a clip box that seems very solid
@@fasterthanaturtle 15 fluid ounces can with a self contained applicator brush . Amazon $60.00 . It is a brushed on coating which is fast drying . 3M Scotchkote FD Electrical Coating Consistency of a glue . Sometimes I use Dap 8889 an acrylic waterproof tub and tile caulk . 5.5 ounces squeeze tube $10.00
@@fasterthanaturtle 3M Scotchkote FD has the consistency of glue . Can with self contained application brush . Dap 8889 an acrylic tube and tile caulk in a squeeze tube also works well . I prefer Scotchkote .
At 11:43 the Lightning cable has a broken shield. Just covering up the damaged cable with heat shrink tubing is not fixing anything. It is just disguising it. The shield is there for a reason, to protect against electromagnetic interference. If all you are doing is charging, you can get away with it but if you are using it for data you might have a problem. The USB data lines carry low voltage but very fast signals. Stray EMI can cause errors in the data or even make it unusable. Better to repair the shield if you are using it for more than just charging.
Or get a spare from the tangle of cables in the bottom drawer. If you look there appears to be a clear piece under the black that we did not see fitted.
Once, I had a service powerline tech give a 6 inch piece of 3 inch diameter thickwall shrink tube. The shrink tube was applied to an axe handle where the handle joined the axe head. This was used to protect the handle from wear from splitting wood blocks. This lasted for years until it was stolen one day. The tech said that as long as heat was applied that the shrink tube would just keep shrinking until it completely enveloped what it was wrapping, even if it was around a 1/2 pipe. I could never find this shrink tube anywhere after this. I never did see the powerline tech guy again to acquire it.
There is a limit to how far heat shrink tubing will shrink, the shrink ratio. Heat shrink tubing is made of polyolefin and is sold in it's expanded form. When heated it returns to it's normal, relaxed state. The difference in the expanded and relaxed states are related by the shrink ratio. 2:1 and 3:1 are standard but it can be up to 6:1 in some cases. A shrink ratio of 2:1 means it has been expanded to twice it's normal diameter, thus when heated will shrink by 1/2, back to the relaxed state. Similarly, 3:1 shrink ratio will shrink to 1/3. When shopping for heat shrink tubing, keep in mind that the diameter can be given for either the relaxed or shrunken state, but most often it refers to the expanded size. Quality product from good sources will include the diameter and shrink ratio in the product description. This is just a peek into the fascinating details of heat shrink tubing.
You resin pot your shrink tube you are like royalty in the shrink tube zip tie arena. So simple of an idea. No more zip ties on a wiring harness. I can color match too.
Just be careful with the current going through a resistor that is covered. Those things have maximum current ratings, based on how quickly they can offload heat. Maximum power rating is the product of voltage drop across the resistor and current going through it. If you give the resistor a rubber coating, you impede its ability to disperse heat.
Exactly, you need to use something to give it structural strength. Of note, I have used heat shrink on the ends of the ear piece to make glasses and especially plastic safety glasses more comfortable.
There are some pretty neat ideas in this video. I may I may not have used some of those myself. These solder connectors look really intriguing. What solder did you use there? Some other things I cannot really recommend. Case in point: The edge protection thing is probably one of the goofiest uses for heat shrink I have seen. If you need any edge protection, improvised or otherwise, to protect a cable running over a hard point, there are some serious doubts in my mind as to why said cable is running over (and presumably rubbing on) a hard point in the first place. Either it lacks strain relief somewhere, or there were some really questionable design decisions.
Back in the '90's, I was a Raychem rep in the Southwest. What the author fails to note is that he's using adhesive-lined heat shrinkable tubing for many, if not all, the projects. It can be very hard to find, so I make my own out by using pieces of regular 2x polyolefin. I take melted hot-melt glue & spread it into a very thin sheet - the thickness depends on the app. Once it rehardens, I cut it to size & use it wrap the connection prior to sleeving it w/ the tubing. A normal heating to install also melts & seals the connection, making it very water (etc.) resistant. Of course, Raychem also sold ready-to-use heat-shrinkable, adhesive-lined butt connectors & other innovative products. At some point two decades ago, some guy that I visited in PHX bought the existing stock of Raychem solder butt connectors (& the patent rights?). Now many companies - domestic & off-shore - produce them. Amazing products!
One of the most interesting and inspirational 'how to' videos I have seen in many years! Thank you. I'm off to dig out my heat gun. I already know where my never-used-yet big box of assorted shrink tubing is...
Some good ideas and one I'd suggest avoiding. While the last tip may have made a reasonably good mechanical connection, the electrical connection is suspect and subject to oxidation (and thus increasing resistance) over time. I like the idea of making my own all-in-one heat shrink/butt connector - but did you have to use special low-temp solder? Shrink tends to split at higher temperatures. I've used the commercial version and don't feel they contain enough solder (although they do seem to work). I'd also never considered using the glue in the marine versions to stick the tubing to itself, creating tabs, separating wires or acting as cushioning material. Those are great suggestions!
Looking closely at the images, it doesn't seem like the solder in the shrink/butt connectors melts completely, so I'm not sure this is such a good idea. Also, considering the work involved in making each connector, it doesn't seem worth it. It you don't have premanufactured solder connectors, I would say it's easier to just solder the wires and and shrink wrap it the normal way.
A lot of them will be very helpful, thanks. I was thinking, is it always necessary to slide the tubes in place, or could you cut them open and roll them around the spot that needs covering?
For stabilization or strain relief purposes, I often use either a drop of hot glue inside or use some thin CA glue after the tubing cooled down. I recently put some cheap alligator clamps on barbecue sticks, put some heatshrink around it and CA glue.
Salve tutto interessantissimo; una domanda, però, qual'è la temperatura ideale per lavorare con la pistola ad aria calda sui termorestringenti? Grazie.
11:09 if you cut this up (or any factory-made solder butt splice) you'll see that the solder didn't actually flow to the inside strands - because they never get hot enough in this type butt splice. It may be OK for low-voltage solid (not stranded) wires, but never as good as a proper non-low-temperature solder with flux, followed by a flux cleanup and a marine grade heat shrink. 8:40 when applying heat to any solder type connector, it's best to do so when it's plugged in into a mating connector. This assures its geometry / pin alignment stays intact through the application of heat.
If you’re using a 1/8th watt resistor, sure. The example shown is probably a 1/4 watt or maybe a 1/2 watt, which I would absolutely not cover unless. If you know enough about the differences, you would not do this. If you don’t, then you should not do this.
@@J01466 That's pretty obvious, isn't it? Resistors can cope with a maximum internal temperature, above which they get destroyed permanently. When current flows through a resistor, heat is generated. The maximum power rating of the resistor is the maximum power at which the resistor can still operate normally without getting damaged. But, the maximum power rating of the resistor assumes an environment in which air can cool the resistor by flowing around it, and in which additional heat can be dissipated by radiation. When placing the resistor in a heat shrink tube (or under e.g. a warming blanket), both these premises are violated, so during operation heat accumulates and leads to a much higher temperature inside the resistor than without the heat shrink tube. Thus, the maximum power rating gets derated to a much lower power value. For example, a 0.25 W rated resistor will already get destroyed at much less than 0.25 W. Depending on the application, this may or may not be acceptable.
You are using the shrink tube with the thermal activated adhesive innige inside, Right? In the first example , how did that not stick to the Connector, or later on did actually fuse?
Anyone know if you can use that clear shrink tube over a label and make it work? Before i set my dymo maker aside and gave to go spend $150 on another dymo to make labels.
Excelentes proyectos , muy bien desarrollados y mejor ejecutados , yo también amo mucho los termoretractiles , es la mejor opción para sellar cables empatados , gracias por compartir sus conocimientos y experiencias , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón , Galicia ( España)😜🤓
Any needle nose will work. You can even use your fingers, although careful as it’ll be hot. You’re just squeezing the heatshrink together, nothing special.
I've re-attached eyewear arms to my childres' glases with some fantastic shrink tubing I've ahad fro 20 years....but i'm out. It was thick walled large shrink ratio and cooled to a fairly hard platic shell...but didn't crack or fail. Awesome stuff. If anyone knows a brand like that please let me know. I've been on the hunt for years.
rope end to the heat shrink is good to use to keep it from untwisting to ot fraying too someone let the air out of the tires use heat shrink to promote them trying to do it to
clear shrink tube i use with name tags and my tools with cords on them china finger trap i use with a new plug on the end of an electrical cord keeps the cord jacket from shrinking out of place heat shrinks the trap to make the end harder to let go too carry heat shrink in your fish tackle box if your rod breaks could repair it to
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Thanks! I bought a little selection of shrink tube for $2 and now I will use it for one of your ideas that I didn’t think of. Much appreciated.
Another tip.
I shrink wrapped wires with rare earth magnets to allow the wire to be strung along metal and stuck to the metal. Example towing a car with mounted temporary taillights. The wire from those taillights are stuck along the car's body to be plugged into the vehicle doing the towing.
Some great tips and techniques here👌. At the 2 minutes 40 seconds mark where you repair the broken arm on the spectacles if you add a piece of piano wire inside the heat shrink sleeve it will make the repaired arm much more robust and resistant to buckling under stress loads.
For best user safety make sure the cut ends of the piano wire are fully covered inside the length of the shrink wrap tubing.
I used a good ole paperclip. Cut it to twice the length that I needed and folded it over nice and tight using a pair of pliers. Same concept though
My aunt, who is a concert pianist, protested when I came with pliers and opened her Steinway piano.
I was about to make a similar suggestion except I used one or two pieces of thin copper wire. The heat shrink tubing by itself was not strong enough.
The cut end of a cable tie works well too.
Also there is shrink tubing with heat-activated adhesives inside (as seen in most of these examples), and there is heat shrink WITHOUT that. The adhesive type will serve better for things needing sealing. The resistor example should really be demonstrated by having the piece of heat shrink slipped onto one wire BEFORE completing the soldering - a common example would be mending a damaged wire, where you can't slip it on from an end because the ends are already affixed to something. Keep it far enough back from the point you might be soldering so it does not shrink before you're ready to slide it over the joint and want to shrink it. Another application: screwdriver shafts so you're less likely to short out a screwdriver on something. Shrink tubing is available in much larger sizes, and can be used to encapsulate electronic components. I don't know that your black sealant goo was, but many silicone / RTV caulks and such contain acetic acid, which react with copper, so make sure what you're using doesn't have that.
The RCA end should have been completed a bit differently. The shield and cable jacket should have been crimped for a good strain relief and the whole thing could have been then heat shrink tubing out say two to three inches (2.5 to 5 cm) long for a good strain relief, but also utilizing the cover that threads in place over all of it.
Yep, 100% agree. The method shown is incorrect and would not be durable. The tabs at the end of the connector are meant to crimp over the cable insulation so when pulling/pushing the connector, the solder joints are not stressed.
RCA?
@@Therapistinthewhitehouse From Wikipedia: "The name RCA derives from the company Radio Corporation of America, which introduced the design in the 1930s." See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector. RCA tip starts at 8:24.
@@johncronk1338it stated it was a repair though.. presumably the screw on piece is broken/missing and theres nothing available to crimp with
The point of the video was using heat shrink. The RCA was specifically a repair. So assume you didnt have the screw on piece or crimping tools to put an rca end on properly, and all you had to repair it temporarily was heatshrink. How would you go about it differently?
If you had no way to get glasses I guess that would be a way to fix a broke the frame. One thing you could do a little different, cut another piece of plastic like a splint and then put the heat shrink tubing around both the splint and the glasses where you plan to join the two broke parts of the frame together and then heat shrink it. This would add much more strength.
I was thinking of that, too - maybe a short length of old ballpoint pen tube? And glue the break, too!
I thought he was also going to glue it, but he didn't 🤷♂️
@@RestoreTechnique He's in the part of the world where you can get heatshrink but not super glue [:shrug:]
Great video. I worked for raychem Corporation for 28 years the inventor of shrink tubing, now Tyco Electronics Endless Possibilities to shrink tubing used to irradiate the tubing with electron beams
why would they do that
Before putting heat shrink tube over protection glasses, put a little amount of hot glue in it, after that put that heat shrink sleeve on, and it would be totally perfect.
I’ve been buying glue lined heat shrink, which is fantastic. I bet you’re getting the same effect. Very strong, but you can’t peel it off if you want to redo it.
And then throw them in the trash
I want to cover two cables but there is no way to insert the tube anywhere, can I cut the tube and then glue it and heat it?
The heat shrink he's using already has glue in it.
To panto. Extra large tube, cut length, place over, glue back together, flat bar inside at seam, fold bar over and over again rolling tube around it until fully covered or more, heat half "might try unravel so use finger on other half and only snug tube with heat", zip tie so flat bar don't flip undoing snug, repeat other side, give more heat to complete. Just an on the fly idea. If want more protection, add liquid electrical tape under joint but above bar. Don't know size of item but for flat bar can use popsicle stick and trim
3M Scotchkote Coating is highly recommended for underground electrical splices . Expensive but well worth it ! Nice Presentation .
Is that a bag/bottle of liquid also that would seal the same way he did? I was fond of the internet guys how they had a splice kit with gel inside a clip box that seems very solid
@@fasterthanaturtle 15 fluid ounces can with a self contained applicator brush . Amazon $60.00 . It is a brushed on coating which is fast drying . 3M Scotchkote FD Electrical Coating Consistency of a glue . Sometimes I use Dap 8889 an acrylic waterproof tub and tile caulk . 5.5 ounces squeeze tube $10.00
@@fasterthanaturtle 3M Scotchkote FD has the consistency of glue . Can with self contained application brush . Dap 8889 an acrylic tube and tile caulk in a squeeze tube also works well . I prefer Scotchkote .
At 11:43 the Lightning cable has a broken shield. Just covering up the damaged cable with heat shrink tubing is not fixing anything. It is just disguising it. The shield is there for a reason, to protect against electromagnetic interference. If all you are doing is charging, you can get away with it but if you are using it for data you might have a problem. The USB data lines carry low voltage but very fast signals. Stray EMI can cause errors in the data or even make it unusable. Better to repair the shield if you are using it for more than just charging.
Or get a spare from the tangle of cables in the bottom drawer.
If you look there appears to be a clear piece under the black that we did not see fitted.
Once, I had a service powerline tech give a 6 inch piece of 3 inch diameter thickwall shrink tube. The shrink tube was applied to an axe handle where the handle joined the axe head. This was used to protect the handle from wear from splitting wood blocks. This lasted for years until it was stolen one day. The tech said that as long as heat was applied that the shrink tube would just keep shrinking until it completely enveloped what it was wrapping, even if it was around a 1/2 pipe. I could never find this shrink tube anywhere after this. I never did see the powerline tech guy again to acquire it.
No home Depot where you're at?
There is a limit to how far heat shrink tubing will shrink, the shrink ratio. Heat shrink tubing is made of polyolefin and is sold in it's expanded form. When heated it returns to it's normal, relaxed state. The difference in the expanded and relaxed states are related by the shrink ratio. 2:1 and 3:1 are standard but it can be up to 6:1 in some cases. A shrink ratio of 2:1 means it has been expanded to twice it's normal diameter, thus when heated will shrink by 1/2, back to the relaxed state. Similarly, 3:1 shrink ratio will shrink to 1/3. When shopping for heat shrink tubing, keep in mind that the diameter can be given for either the relaxed or shrunken state, but most often it refers to the expanded size. Quality product from good sources will include the diameter and shrink ratio in the product description. This is just a peek into the fascinating details of heat shrink tubing.
@@jssamp4442 2:1 is cheaper, so that's what the retail stores sell. They go up to 4:1 and 3:1.
You resin pot your shrink tube you are like royalty in the shrink tube zip tie arena. So simple of an idea. No more zip ties on a wiring harness. I can color match too.
Just be careful with the current going through a resistor that is covered. Those things have maximum current ratings, based on how quickly they can offload heat. Maximum power rating is the product of voltage drop across the resistor and current going through it. If you give the resistor a rubber coating, you impede its ability to disperse heat.
What material is in black colour in poly bag? Please mention name...
The end part of the shoelace is called an aglet.
The safety glass repair would work a lot better if a partial paper clip was used to improve structural integrity.
Exactly, you need to use something to give it structural strength.
Of note, I have used heat shrink on the ends of the ear piece to make glasses and especially plastic safety glasses more comfortable.
@@johncronk1338 Can also be used to attach paracord or similar line for a retaining strap.
I'd use tiny nails instead they are decidedly stronger than paper clips.
There are some pretty neat ideas in this video. I may I may not have used some of those myself. These solder connectors look really intriguing. What solder did you use there?
Some other things I cannot really recommend. Case in point:
The edge protection thing is probably one of the goofiest uses for heat shrink I have seen. If you need any edge protection, improvised or otherwise, to protect a cable running over a hard point, there are some serious doubts in my mind as to why said cable is running over (and presumably rubbing on) a hard point in the first place. Either it lacks strain relief somewhere, or there were some really questionable design decisions.
Back in the '90's, I was a Raychem rep in the Southwest. What the author fails to note is that he's using adhesive-lined heat shrinkable tubing for many, if not all, the projects. It can be very hard to find, so I make my own out by using pieces of regular 2x polyolefin. I take melted hot-melt glue & spread it into a very thin sheet - the thickness depends on the app. Once it rehardens, I cut it to size & use it wrap the connection prior to sleeving it w/ the tubing. A normal heating to install also melts & seals the connection, making it very water (etc.) resistant. Of course, Raychem also sold ready-to-use heat-shrinkable, adhesive-lined butt connectors & other innovative products. At some point two decades ago, some guy that I visited in PHX bought the existing stock of Raychem solder butt connectors (& the patent rights?). Now many companies - domestic & off-shore - produce them. Amazing products!
Could you please tell me in minute 2:49 you use some aligator clips with articulated arms. Which name that receives? I find it very useful. Thank you
One of the most interesting and inspirational 'how to' videos I have seen in many years! Thank you. I'm off to dig out my heat gun. I already know where my never-used-yet big box of assorted shrink tubing is...
What is the black liquid that was poured into the connection for the underwater connection? It's at 14:30.
electrical insulation resin (3M scotchcast)
Some good ideas and one I'd suggest avoiding. While the last tip may have made a reasonably good mechanical connection, the electrical connection is suspect and subject to oxidation (and thus increasing resistance) over time.
I like the idea of making my own all-in-one heat shrink/butt connector - but did you have to use special low-temp solder? Shrink tends to split at higher temperatures. I've used the commercial version and don't feel they contain enough solder (although they do seem to work).
I'd also never considered using the glue in the marine versions to stick the tubing to itself, creating tabs, separating wires or acting as cushioning material. Those are great suggestions!
@@hauptuhrdotnetblog6700 I don't know for sure, but I'd guess that *your* guess is correct.
@@hauptuhrdotnetblog6700 I believe it’s some sort of epoxy mix
Looking closely at the images, it doesn't seem like the solder in the shrink/butt connectors melts completely, so I'm not sure this is such a good idea. Also, considering the work involved in making each connector, it doesn't seem worth it. It you don't have premanufactured solder connectors, I would say it's easier to just solder the wires and and shrink wrap it the normal way.
What is the stuff you used in the underwater cables section? (To fill up the shrinkwrap)
Yes, and how well does this work compared to HST that comes with an inbuilt layer of glue?
search online for "potting compound". 👍
What is the black compound you use for sealing inside the heat shrink is called?
Looks like 3M scotchcast eletrical insulation resin
Owh ok. Thanks mate
I learn somuch tricks in your video thanks 👍 dear 😊😊
What black adhesive or sealant is that at the minute 17:14 ? Where we can buy?
The soldering-inside-shrinkwrap at 10:32 was INSANE!
The solder heat shrink sleeves hack is my favorite @9:45
Looks cool, but you can achieve same or better result by soldering the wires first and then applying the heat shrink tube, isn't it?
The method in the video is faster
@@Danny-xe2sg the preparation to do so is slower
@@Paw_Low yes but if you have to join two wires on the fly and you have a bunch of theese is very easy and quick
@@robotics_and_stuff I agree. The normal use is more practical.. Maybe an advantage is no soldering iron needed.
Wow I never knew how to use shrink wrap...its amazing..
Great tips, love heat shrinks!
How well does a connection between two wires that is made as shown here compare to one that is soldered and then covered in HST?
A lot of them will be very helpful, thanks. I was thinking, is it always necessary to slide the tubes in place, or could you cut them open and roll them around the spot that needs covering?
For stabilization or strain relief purposes, I often use either a drop of hot glue inside or use some thin CA glue after the tubing cooled down. I recently put some cheap alligator clamps on barbecue sticks, put some heatshrink around it and CA glue.
Salve tutto interessantissimo; una domanda, però, qual'è la temperatura ideale per lavorare con la pistola ad aria calda sui termorestringenti?
Grazie.
11:09 if you cut this up (or any factory-made solder butt splice) you'll see that the solder didn't actually flow to the inside strands - because they never get hot enough in this type butt splice. It may be OK for low-voltage solid (not stranded) wires, but never as good as a proper non-low-temperature solder with flux, followed by a flux cleanup and a marine grade heat shrink.
8:40 when applying heat to any solder type connector, it's best to do so when it's plugged in into a mating connector. This assures its geometry / pin alignment stays intact through the application of heat.
Please don't shrink wrap air cooled components like resistors!
Most of the time you run a jillionth of an amp through resitors like that so it's fine.
If you’re using a 1/8th watt resistor, sure. The example shown is probably a 1/4 watt or maybe a 1/2 watt, which I would absolutely not cover unless. If you know enough about the differences, you would not do this. If you don’t, then you should not do this.
Lol I even shrink wrap heatsinks it keeps the dirt out from between the fins.
NOR pliers you can only use painters tape and superglue😢
Bad idea @@Freeknickers24
@14:01 what's the goo called?
@14:23 why put in a scrap piece of wire & remove it later?
Please reply,
thanks.
It might be liquid electrical tape but probably some resin that hardens after mixing.
For GX connector, what the purpose, it covered by plastic and female?
Very interesting! So many uses of heat shrink
Please say me !! While glasses putting in the stand ......where he did buy ? And what is the name of the stand
14:05 What's that black material in the bag?
Making the Y-transition breakou and grips for helping hands are actually great ideas.
14:01 what is the black liquid??
Scusa, in descrizione non ho visto il sito dove acquistare la soluzione nera liquida che inserisce dove hai effettuato le giunzioni.
Si trova su RS component
The glasses was not great but the rest are pretty nice. I like especially the shoe laces repair :)
For underwater connection, @ 14:00 what is that black liquid?
Can anyone tell me what was the material that was poured in the heat shrink used on the underwater cable? Also how long does it take to solidify?
Prob some sort of resin
Ah ok...
I’d like to know that too. Greetings from Maine
"Resistor protection" seems nice, but it's also resistor power derating.
Splain how.
@@J01466 That's pretty obvious, isn't it? Resistors can cope with a maximum internal temperature, above which they get destroyed permanently. When current flows through a resistor, heat is generated. The maximum power rating of the resistor is the maximum power at which the resistor can still operate normally without getting damaged. But, the maximum power rating of the resistor assumes an environment in which air can cool the resistor by flowing around it, and in which additional heat can be dissipated by radiation. When placing the resistor in a heat shrink tube (or under e.g. a warming blanket), both these premises are violated, so during operation heat accumulates and leads to a much higher temperature inside the resistor than without the heat shrink tube. Thus, the maximum power rating gets derated to a much lower power value. For example, a 0.25 W rated resistor will already get destroyed at much less than 0.25 W. Depending on the application, this may or may not be acceptable.
Come si chiama quel liquido nero per isolare per favore ?
Grazie del video
Wonderful , your style of using the sleeves inspired and skillful.👏👍💯
@14:00 I assume this is an epoxy. does anybody know what kind or brand? never seen it in a bag like that.
Il primo connettore, quello circolare, è impermeabile?
What is this Black thing at 14:00?
seams like Silicon gel but youtuber need to give subtitle or in 'read more' some kind of info about it. that trick is useful in wet area.
It’s some sort of 2 part epoxy
You are using the shrink tube with the thermal activated adhesive innige inside, Right? In the first example , how did that not stick to the Connector, or later on did actually fuse?
What is that black liquid (glue) used @14:00 ?
How would I remember all these?
The second one is the best! Thanks for these hacks!
Thanks for creative ideas of heat shrink.
@Daniele Tartaglia, in the second video (glasses) can I ask were did you get the apparatus from that held the glasses, thanks for the share
What kind of liquid was used for filling tubes at 14:01? Where I can order?
It looked like he was using: 3M Scotchcast 4N-A Black Epoxy Electrical Insulating Resin.
Can you tell me where to get the alligator third hand?
что за паяльник ты используешь
Where can I buy the spider/multi arm holder gadget to used?
Molto utile. La terza mano snodabile dove si può acquistare? Grazie mille.
If you're going to heatshrink resistors use clear heatshrink so you can see value
the tubes with solder in them was something that never crossed my mind :O
Anyone know if you can use that clear shrink tube over a label and make it work? Before i set my dymo maker aside and gave to go spend $150 on another dymo to make labels.
Yes, I do this often. Another trick is to use clear packing tape over your labels. This works great on wires or anywhere clear heat shrink won’t work.
What is the music at 06:11? Please. 😍
Excelentes proyectos , muy bien desarrollados y mejor ejecutados , yo también amo mucho los termoretractiles , es la mejor opción para sellar cables empatados , gracias por compartir sus conocimientos y experiencias , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón , Galicia ( España)😜🤓
Where to buy helping hand like in the video with the working glass?
Wish I could give you two thumbs up’s! Many great idea’s.
what is that Black Liquid at 13:58 ?
Good ideas. As soon as I get a new phone cable I do this. It makes them last much longer.
What is the liquid being poured into the heatshrink @13:50 ?
Огромное спасибо вам за ваше творчество , очень вдохновляет делать красивые вещи )
most amazing way to soldering 2 cables at 9:45
can anyone tell me what that black stuff in the bag was? It looks like some kind of two part epoxy or silicon.
I just used heat shrink to lessen the diameter of a ligature for a saxophone mouthpiece.
At 02:44 , what is that blue stand called?
Daniele sei sempre il numero 1
Hi guys what kind of pliers did he use at 1:59
Any needle nose will work. You can even use your fingers, although careful as it’ll be hot. You’re just squeezing the heatshrink together, nothing special.
Please post link to that holder with many arms?
I'm thinking you want a rigid "splint" of some sort in the "eyewear repair"... "music wire" has been a favorite of mine, lately...
Dear blogger, I would like to quote your video on the heat shrinkable product, OK?
11:21 looks like a cold weld. It seems a proper solder joint should be made before adding heat shrink tubing.
Bravo, Danielе ! Video molto utile ! Voglio vedere nuove macchine e dispositivi! Aspettiamo !
I've re-attached eyewear arms to my childres' glases with some fantastic shrink tubing I've ahad fro 20 years....but i'm out. It was thick walled large shrink ratio and cooled to a fairly hard platic shell...but didn't crack or fail. Awesome stuff. If anyone knows a brand like that please let me know. I've been on the hunt for years.
Raychem, now TE Connectivity make it MWTM is the thinner wall, WCSM is the thick wall,
@@robinjones4234 Thank you sir. I owe you a beer. Cheers.
What is that black stuff in the bag?
I can imagine this guy’s wife walking around saying, “Why did you put heat shrink on everything we own?!!”
Magníficos trucos y útiles. Enhorabuena por tus videos y tutoriales, sobre todo para novatos ;-D
None of this can be done unless you’re using the expensive shrink tubing that has glue inside and usually has a greater wall thickness.
Some of them yes but a lot of the wire ones are doable with the regular stuff.
Hi, the first hack is very very good! And next hacks are very good! Thanks you behind video!
I couldn't find the video of clock in the background. Have you removed it already?
rope end to the heat shrink is good to use to keep it from untwisting to ot fraying too
someone let the air out of the tires use heat shrink to promote them trying to do it to
Tracklist for the music?
You didn't crimp that RCA connector.!?
Crimp isn't really needed with glue lined heat shrink. It isn't going anywhere.
@@stargazer7644 but how will the connectivity be?
@@edwardonsax9919 The crimp has nothing to do with connectivity. It simply grips the insulation. It is not an electrical connection.
Awesome video compilation 👍
clear shrink tube i use with name tags and my tools with cords on them
china finger trap i use with a new plug on the end of an electrical cord keeps the cord jacket from shrinking out of place heat shrinks the trap to make the end harder to let go too
carry heat shrink in your fish tackle box if your rod breaks could repair it to
Creative as hell 😯👍
4:23 resistor protection for what give me please at least 2 3 examples? :) Tnx!
Cable pants are very cool :)