Thanks Matt for taking the initiative to film this video for us without your camera crew vs not at all. Videos like this shows how much thought process you put into providing us good content. You could have very easily skipped this video till you had someone record you but you didn’t. I’m sure many of us appreciate you and your efforts! Can’t thank you enough!
Your Filming is great, I can see you, I can see what your are doing, and I understand what you are doing. That is where I find most self filming fails.
Liking the longer videos Matt. Great craftsmanship as always. Thank you for introducing us to a lot of these new products. Can't wait to build my forever home using your teaching.
I've been waiting for this vid! TY! Knowing how to water and air seal corners from foundation to roof is Sooooo important! Look forward to more of the same!
I would like to thank you for filming this video yourself. The video came out with top notch quality as usual, but it had that “old school TH-cam” feel at the same time. Great work on the video and, of course, displaying another great product for building a solid home!
It's fun watching these videos; goodness knows I've probably watched 100 hours. There's a lot to learn with regard to technique which is good because very often I call my suppliers in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area) and learn that half of the products you show aren't available in my area. There are different products available, to be sure, but then I need to do more research because I didn't see it on TBS.
If that flashing is not considered air sealing, then wouldn't it be necessary to air seal the ZIP sheathing to the concrete with the SIGA tape and then add the kick out flashing for the masonry? I imagine its only a minimal amount a of air loss but with enough area it may add up. Thanks!
Thanks for making another great video. I think the Zip flashing tape up top is a great idea, but I have to question whether it makes sense to continuously caulk the bottom part of your flashing. If water ever gets in there, its trapped. I know you did a lot to prevent that from happening, but water finds a way of getting in, especially on jobs where the boss isn't standing directly over the installation work.
Matt, you did not use saga tape to create an air and bug barrier behind this brick ledge flashing. It would seem to me it is an appropriate belt and suspender detail for just a few bucks that should have been done. Would you please comment on why it was not done?
You should make yourself a work table with some big wheels that has some locking system so that you can do your cuts and applying the caulk at a comfortable level as well as keep it alot cleaner. Phenomenal details guys!
Should probably some concrete primer a day before also the water based type, i use a "water glass" one and it gives the concrete a glossy surface, binds the dust to a hard substance that makes tape and caulking adhere much better 😁
Hey, great work Matt. Appreciating your channel from Queensland, Australia. Is there any code requirement for you guys to use a sheet metal termite capping in your home state of Texas? Cheers🤘
Great video as always, no need for a film crew!😆 Would love to see more video's on block construction. Not too common in the States but I'm going to build a house in Mexico where all houses are build with block construction and all houses are extremely leaky! They leak air and they leak water, thats just the norm here but would love tips on how to build them better 😃
Interesting product. A couple questions at the system level. Do you prefer to seal the seam between the sheathing and the slab on these thick Zip-R systems or provide some sort of condensation outward ventilation/drying? This system seemed to be an updated brick ledge flashing with a drainage screen(assuming that drainage screen wouldn't be pinched closed by the weight of the masonry or sealed by wicking up mortar,) this system would be open to breath along the veneer/cladding drainage plane but appears to be sealed by a fluid applied sealant on the aforementioned condensation plane. Also is there an structural loss or modifications required for the masonry install where it meets the slab or otherwise to account for the loss of mortar bond to the foundation?
Hey Matt, great video! What was the resson for the walls switching from flush with the concrete to 5-6" inside of it? We like to have our framing flush with the outside of the slab then run the sheathing over the joint by 3". Just before we nail it we will run a bead if expanding foam to stick the insulation of zip r to the slab. Any squeeze out gets cut away, then we go around the whole house with prosoco airdam spread over the joint. Finish out with Siga Fentrim 9". Bomber!
What else can you do at the bottom of the OSB -- I see some use SIGMA Tape or some MESSY GOOPY PINK or BLACK stuff -- My concern is that the SIGA Fentrim 430 product info states that it needs a "Minimum surface contact for masonry substrate of 2 inches". Then it states "Max UV exposure 4 months" -- So what happens to the 2" stuck to the concrete after 4 months -- does it deteriorate like we see Duct Tape do? What other ways can be used to seal the bottom of the LP Weather Logic OSB (or ZIP) sheathing "that is permanent" and not look like someone made a mess using some black goo? I want a clean look at the beginning of my siding! Any good ideas on what to use to keep the OSB dry at the bottoms?
Milwaukee 18 volt, caulking gun is a must have. Especially, if you can get you caulking in 20 oz sausage tubes. I like this video format. Perfect timing, as I head out to my project to install flashing.
Any commercial roofing supply will likely carry poly term bar that could be used in places like the inside corner. In my experience water block would make a substantially better seal behind the term bar as well
2:13, That spot to the right looks like it has a nice, upward-facing gap between the tapes, right where they overlap. It looks like a good spot to trap water. I guess that's why you're supposed to start at the bottom and work your way up when applying these tapes.
I suppose that it would make sense to also flash/tape over all of the vertical seams where those panels come together. Since there is no overlap. But other than that one shot in the second half where it was mostly your back haha, great job on the self film. It was better than previous times where there was no tripod and it was just shaky all the time.
I learn a lot in all your video but those people I hired they didn’t careful do the way like yours, they always cut corner and always said they are doing the right way. Never wrong 😱I end up being so upset , even I don’t know how to build stuff I’m enjoying your shows and much of your experience !
I was wondering the same but if you look carefully the metal trim doesn't go to the edge of that piece but they had to align that metal with the corner one. That made the "loose" overhang too long for that section of wall.
Should you wipe down the Zip tape with rubbing alcohol or acetone until the writing is wiped off before applying anything over itself unless it's the peel Zip tape, just for better adhesion? Same with the flashing tape, mild detergent and rinse/dry concrete? I'm sure it will be fine :) I'm OCD, which is why I love your channel haha. Finally I finished my house because of you, thank you sir! Lol at that tube of zip flashing used for the 3 pipes, surprised they didn't press the material up to it and cut it out
I’m a small time builder in a rural Texas area (outside of Wichita Falls), and the owner would fall over dead if I suggested using this stuff over a roll of felt paper 😂 not to mention having to use all of that adhesive lol. I wish I could do it the right way. But without inspections and with a super tight wallet owner, that house won’t be sealed up nearly as well as this one.
I feel you. I have done some real estate development (40+ townhomes) over the years. Early on, I have a GC that insisted we use felt paper. That stuff was flapping in the wind totally worthless. I also learned my lesson on cutting corners -> turn into callbacks -> turn into lawsuits. I have another buddy that refuses to step up his water proofing game and every year is involved in lawsuits. Just much much easier to do it right the first time.
Kind of an aside, but I'm wondering what build show or fans do when OSB sheathing isn't on the table. I'd like to use ZIP but am in a flood zone so have to use treated plywood. what would you use to get zip like benefits?
Looks like the outside corner the black rubber should be longer to help water get out. By the looks of it water will drain to metal plate then back under rubber Great video
If I were building a custom home and had an unlimited budget, my overhangs would be so large the widows and siding would never see a drop of water. You are going to be maintaining and or replacing the roof anyway - might as well have it completely protect the siding/widows. I’ve seen so many custom homes with water rot issues. It seems no matter how they try they always miss something.
I love these videos. If you came to Florida, especially the Tampa Bay area, you would make a fortune because even the multi million dollar homes here are built like crap. Best practice is a cuss word to contractors around here. Their favorite phrase here is "it'll be fine".
Mr. Risinger, Sir, IMO and you are the expert, but on the black corner piece I would've put a bead on the inner lines 12:56 also as there maybe a droop in the product. The reason is you always preach belt and suspenders and/or a bomber approach to building. While that piece Is off that's the only time you would have to put them on. I was just thinking for the small price of maybe 1 more tube of caulking, is it worth it to skimp as your houses are built with such a high standards. Great video on an interesting concept I haven't seen before but makers total sense.
I thought you would have taped the bottom of the zip-r with the siga tape as part of your belt and suspenders approach to building. Was there a reason not to, I may have missed it in the video.
Matt, would you ideally have put that flashing down before you put the Zip-R siding on, to have a true shingling for water runoff? Looks like you are depending totally on the adherance of the Zip tape and butyl smear to prevent water from getting behind there. And since you did not push the back of the flashing material all the way back under the edge of the Zip-R, have you created a critter crawl-way behind it? Not criticizing, just asking.
Good job! What if you keep the vertical section intact and bend around the corner. Cut the horizontal section so it opens up and laps on the corner piece. Why caulk the leading (bottom) edge? Is that to keep it in place?
You did not tape the zip sheathing to the concrete where you are putting the flashing. In terms of air/bug sealing, should that have been taped first or does the flashing make that unnecessary?
Should a shim board be added at the bottom of the Zip behind the final layer to prevent that back slope where you pushed it in under the Zip sheeting edge to prevent water from pooling?
Did I see zip tape on the bottom of the window at the 27:55-time mark? Window looks to be a non-operative window but is that correct? Does the bottom of the window not have to drain? Also it looks like you have no flashing pan on the bottom of the window only tape over the flange.
As you continue down the wall you will find that you now have to remove some of your screws on the term bar as the next piece must go under the one you have down
I was confused why the decision to use Siga Fentrum was skipped before bonding the demonstration mock up whereas The Fentrum was used ending where the MortarNet product was mocked up and continued.
My experience with this product is that I can do more flashing with individual components of drip edge corner flashings and peal and stick flashing. Also caulk the top of the term bar. As I said this product works best if you work from right to left.
Ok so I’m building a new home. I don’t know Matt. Who can I use to go with me around the home to make sure these things are done correctly if I can’t rely on the builder?!
That siga isn’t going to prevent water from rotting out the bottom 2 feet of sheathing/siding. Rain water WILL bounce off that concrete up onto that siga. Unless they have decent roof overhangs, they’re screwed
All the butt joints on the flashing seem like they'd be an entry point for any water coming down the wall. I'm surprised they don't call for a lap joint.
That moistop masonry flashing was installed wrong according to Zip mfg instructions anyway. They put it behind the sheathing as if it were Thermoply, but it should be taped to the front of the zip.
Late comment, but it seems like no one reads the manufacturer's instructions, they just watch a demonstration at a trade show. I know there are a lot of products, with different ones on each job, and they get paid to build, not read. But someone should read the instructions for a product on each job site before using it.
Thanks Matt for taking the initiative to film this video for us without your camera crew vs not at all. Videos like this shows how much thought process you put into providing us good content. You could have very easily skipped this video till you had someone record you but you didn’t. I’m sure many of us appreciate you and your efforts! Can’t thank you enough!
I love the hands-on video. It really shows the thought process and the details of working with the product.
It's a treat to see you get hands-on to show how it's done. 👍
Your Filming is great, I can see you, I can see what your are doing, and I understand what you are doing. That is where I find most self filming fails.
I like the self filming. Feels more involved.
Nice. Not too many of these videos containing actual labor. Not bad. Learning every day here, thanks man.
Liking the longer videos Matt. Great craftsmanship as always. Thank you for introducing us to a lot of these new products. Can't wait to build my forever home using your teaching.
Great job waterproofing and kick out the water. Wonderful job. Thank you very much.
I've been waiting for this vid! TY! Knowing how to water and air seal corners from foundation to roof is Sooooo important! Look forward to more of the same!
I would like to thank you for filming this video yourself. The video came out with top notch quality as usual, but it had that “old school TH-cam” feel at the same time. Great work on the video and, of course, displaying another great product for building a solid home!
It's fun watching these videos; goodness knows I've probably watched 100 hours. There's a lot to learn with regard to technique which is good because very often I call my suppliers in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area) and learn that half of the products you show aren't available in my area. There are different products available, to be sure, but then I need to do more research because I didn't see it on TBS.
Your self-filming has gotten much better.
👆👆Great fans🎊Congratulations🎁 dm for your reward
If that flashing is not considered air sealing, then wouldn't it be necessary to air seal the ZIP sheathing to the concrete with the SIGA tape and then add the kick out flashing for the masonry? I imagine its only a minimal amount a of air loss but with enough area it may add up. Thanks!
Thanks for making another great video. I think the Zip flashing tape up top is a great idea, but I have to question whether it makes sense to continuously caulk the bottom part of your flashing. If water ever gets in there, its trapped. I know you did a lot to prevent that from happening, but water finds a way of getting in, especially on jobs where the boss isn't standing directly over the installation work.
Samesies
Matt, you did not use saga tape to create an air and bug barrier behind this brick ledge flashing. It would seem to me it is an appropriate belt and suspender detail for just a few bucks that should have been done. Would you please comment on why it was not done?
You should make yourself a work table with some big wheels that has some locking system so that you can do your cuts and applying the caulk at a comfortable level as well as keep it alot cleaner. Phenomenal details guys!
Love this How-Tos videos. Thank You Matt
Should probably some concrete primer a day before also the water based type, i use a "water glass" one and it gives the concrete a glossy surface, binds the dust to a hard substance that makes tape and caulking adhere much better 😁
Cool product! Filmed very entertaining. I would just cut rubber flanges to glue around the tubes. Taping the top of the flashing is so satisfying!!
Hey, great work Matt.
Appreciating your channel from Queensland, Australia.
Is there any code requirement for you guys to use a sheet metal termite capping in your home state of Texas?
Cheers🤘
Great video as always, no need for a film crew!😆 Would love to see more video's on block construction. Not too common in the States but I'm going to build a house in Mexico where all houses are build with block construction and all houses are extremely leaky! They leak air and they leak water, thats just the norm here but would love tips on how to build them better 😃
Great job as always. The point on the screw is called a self tapping screw. Also great job on filming this episode
Absolutely applying this if I ever get the opportunity to build!
Wow! Matt actually doing work 😜
Thanks for the education. Detail oriented best practices.
Interesting product. A couple questions at the system level.
Do you prefer to seal the seam between the sheathing and the slab on these thick Zip-R systems or provide some sort of condensation outward ventilation/drying?
This system seemed to be an updated brick ledge flashing with a drainage screen(assuming that drainage screen wouldn't be pinched closed by the weight of the masonry or sealed by wicking up mortar,) this system would be open to breath along the veneer/cladding drainage plane but appears to be sealed by a fluid applied sealant on the aforementioned condensation plane.
Also is there an structural loss or modifications required for the masonry install where it meets the slab or otherwise to account for the loss of mortar bond to the foundation?
Hey Matt, great video! What was the resson for the walls switching from flush with the concrete to 5-6" inside of it? We like to have our framing flush with the outside of the slab then run the sheathing over the joint by 3". Just before we nail it we will run a bead if expanding foam to stick the insulation of zip r to the slab. Any squeeze out gets cut away, then we go around the whole house with prosoco airdam spread over the joint. Finish out with Siga Fentrim 9". Bomber!
What else can you do at the bottom of the OSB -- I see some use SIGMA Tape or some MESSY GOOPY PINK or BLACK stuff -- My concern is that the SIGA Fentrim 430 product info states that it needs a "Minimum surface contact for masonry substrate of 2 inches". Then it states "Max UV exposure 4 months" -- So what happens to the 2" stuck to the concrete after 4 months -- does it deteriorate like we see Duct Tape do? What other ways can be used to seal the bottom of the LP Weather Logic OSB (or ZIP) sheathing "that is permanent" and not look like someone made a mess using some black goo? I want a clean look at the beginning of my siding! Any good ideas on what to use to keep the OSB dry at the bottoms?
You've gotten pretty decent at self filming over the years but your camera crew is definitely still worth their pay.
👆👆Great fans🎊Congratulations🎁 dm for your reward✔️✔️
Nice flashing system. I would encourage the use of a seam roller around to ensure good adhesion around the perimeter of your flashing system.
Good camera work. Looks good 👍
👆👆Great fans🎊Congratulations🎁 dm for your reward
what an amazing video, thank you so much Matt!
Milwaukee 18 volt, caulking gun is a must have. Especially, if you can get you caulking in 20 oz sausage tubes.
I like this video format. Perfect timing, as I head out to my project to install flashing.
Except when the casing busts and calk gets all inside in hard to clean places.
This is experience talking.
Any commercial roofing supply will likely carry poly term bar that could be used in places like the inside corner. In my experience water block would make a substantially better seal behind the term bar as well
Yes all looks good. Enjoyed watching it
This was a really great video. Thanks for providing insight and expertise!
👆👆Great fans🎊Congratulations🎁 dm for your reward✔️✔️
2:13, That spot to the right looks like it has a nice, upward-facing gap between the tapes, right where they overlap. It looks like a good spot to trap water. I guess that's why you're supposed to start at the bottom and work your way up when applying these tapes.
I suppose that it would make sense to also flash/tape over all of the vertical seams where those panels come together. Since there is no overlap. But other than that one shot in the second half where it was mostly your back haha, great job on the self film. It was better than previous times where there was no tripod and it was just shaky all the time.
Those panels do overlap if you watch closely.
Hey Matt trying to find Siga tape for the block to wood transition but having trouble finding it in FL
I learn a lot in all your video but those people I hired they didn’t careful do the way like yours, they always cut corner and always said they are doing the right way. Never wrong 😱I end up being so upset , even I don’t know how to build stuff I’m enjoying your shows and much of your experience !
I liked this one a lot.
Awesome glad you helped him out , which will safe him more money down the road 😀 👍 👏
What kind of camera do you use to film these vids? Quality looks really good.
Why did you trim the flash panel rather rather than shifting it to the right?
Wondering the same
I was wondering the same but if you look carefully the metal trim doesn't go to the edge of that piece but they had to align that metal with the corner one. That made the "loose" overhang too long for that section of wall.
They were supposed to use a starter panel which isn't required to be trimmed, but they made a mistake.
Should you wipe down the Zip tape with rubbing alcohol or acetone until the writing is wiped off before applying anything over itself unless it's the peel Zip tape, just for better adhesion? Same with the flashing tape, mild detergent and rinse/dry concrete? I'm sure it will be fine :) I'm OCD, which is why I love your channel haha. Finally I finished my house because of you, thank you sir!
Lol at that tube of zip flashing used for the 3 pipes, surprised they didn't press the material up to it and cut it out
I’m a small time builder in a rural Texas area (outside of Wichita Falls), and the owner would fall over dead if I suggested using this stuff over a roll of felt paper 😂 not to mention having to use all of that adhesive lol. I wish I could do it the right way. But without inspections and with a super tight wallet owner, that house won’t be sealed up nearly as well as this one.
I feel you. I have done some real estate development (40+ townhomes) over the years. Early on, I have a GC that insisted we use felt paper. That stuff was flapping in the wind totally worthless. I also learned my lesson on cutting corners -> turn into callbacks -> turn into lawsuits. I have another buddy that refuses to step up his water proofing game and every year is involved in lawsuits. Just much much easier to do it right the first time.
Super cool Matt ,I really like that tape
Very informative thanks
Great vid. Is fentrem tape better than liquid flash at the zipR to concrete intersection????
Kind of an aside, but I'm wondering what build show or fans do when OSB sheathing isn't on the table. I'd like to use ZIP but am in a flood zone so have to use treated plywood. what would you use to get zip like benefits?
Looks like the outside corner the black rubber should be longer to help water get out. By the looks of it water will drain to metal plate then back under rubber Great video
My man Kevin needs to get a no-drip caulk gun 🤣
I was telling him to press the pressure release tab while watching all that and he didn't listen!
If I were building a custom home and had an unlimited budget, my overhangs would be so large the widows and siding would never see a drop of water. You are going to be maintaining and or replacing the roof anyway - might as well have it completely protect the siding/widows. I’ve seen so many custom homes with water rot issues. It seems no matter how they try they always miss something.
I love these videos. If you came to Florida, especially the Tampa Bay area, you would make a fortune because even the multi million dollar homes here are built like crap. Best practice is a cuss word to contractors around here. Their favorite phrase here is "it'll be fine".
Mr. Risinger, Sir, IMO and you are the expert, but on the black corner piece I would've put a bead on the inner lines 12:56 also as there maybe a droop in the product. The reason is you always preach belt and suspenders and/or a bomber approach to building. While that piece Is off that's the only time you would have to put them on. I was just thinking for the small price of maybe 1 more tube of caulking, is it worth it to skimp as your houses are built with such a high standards. Great video on an interesting concept I haven't seen before but makers total sense.
Out of curiosity can that be a replacement for termite blocks around the foundation?
I thought you would have taped the bottom of the zip-r with the siga tape as part of your belt and suspenders approach to building. Was there a reason not to, I may have missed it in the video.
Matt, would you ideally have put that flashing down before you put the Zip-R siding on, to have a true shingling for water runoff? Looks like you are depending totally on the adherance of the Zip tape and butyl smear to prevent water from getting behind there. And since you did not push the back of the flashing material all the way back under the edge of the Zip-R, have you created a critter crawl-way behind it? Not criticizing, just asking.
Would flashing behind/before installing the Zip panels be a cleaner option?
Reminds me of some of your first videos
On some commercial jobs the tape at the top is required. Depends on the archietect
When the mason installs the rock or brick? I guess the mortar will just sit in that product and bond ?
Nice hands on tutorial!
👆👆Great fans🎊Congratulations🎁 dm for your reward
When belt and suspenders isn't good enough... Just add some Zip tape to make sure.
👆Great fans🎊Congratulations🎁 dm for your reward
Good job! What if you keep the vertical section intact and bend around the corner. Cut the horizontal section so it opens up and laps on the corner piece. Why caulk the leading (bottom) edge? Is that to keep it in place?
How will the cement bond to the flashing where you’re going to lay the bricks/stones?
It bonds between the weep tabs
mortarnet.com/totalflash-panel/
You did not tape the zip sheathing to the concrete where you are putting the flashing. In terms of air/bug sealing, should that have been taped first or does the flashing make that unnecessary?
Have you heard about 22 khz airborne frequency in an appt and how to remediate it. Thx
Should a shim board be added at the bottom of the Zip behind the final layer to prevent that back slope where you pushed it in under the Zip sheeting edge to prevent water from pooling?
Did I see zip tape on the bottom of the window at the 27:55-time mark? Window looks to be a non-operative window but is that correct? Does the bottom of the window not have to drain? Also it looks like you have no flashing pan on the bottom of the window only tape over the flange.
Why not something like apoc water proofer for the bottom 6" of sheathing and top of foundation?
Ryobi makes a nice 18V battery powered caulking gun, I've used mine for years
May I please get a link to that tape, thank you
As you continue down the wall you will find that you now have to remove some of your screws on the term bar as the next piece must go under the one you have down
I was confused why the decision to use Siga Fentrum was skipped before bonding the demonstration mock up whereas The Fentrum was used ending where the MortarNet product was mocked up and continued.
Great filming for a solo effort. Jayman...
My experience with this product is that I can do more flashing with individual components of drip edge corner flashings and peal and stick flashing. Also caulk the top of the term bar. As I said this product works best if you work from right to left.
Where do I purchase this product?
Don’t you need to cover the zip with a wrb as well if it’s been out for 6 months for warranty?
Flex-all would do it🤠
Why no gray tape on this section behind that flashing?
3/4 wood screws with zip tape would be better ......those tex screws are too long and dont like wood
All this labor intensive taping and flashing is yet another reason to go ICF.
So why not make the exterior wall flush with the concrete foundation and then tap the seam?
Ok so I’m building a new home. I don’t know Matt. Who can I use to go with me around the home to make sure these things are done correctly if I can’t rely on the builder?!
Hire an independent home inspector to evaluate at crucial phases/stages. They will represent you ( not the bank or county/city).
@@12dollacigarette Ahhhh thank you!
Don't you need the steel kickout on the inside corner?
Would it be better to put that under the zip sheathing?
For this product the drainage plane fabric must be at the face to collect water and weep it out at all those horizontal tabs.
Shouldn't a fluid applied be about the best?
oh so close to that 1 mil sub mark..
How about stone above a water table
Would this be installed before or after water table?
👆👆Great fans🎊Congratulations🎁 dm for your reward
That siga isn’t going to prevent water from rotting out the bottom 2 feet of sheathing/siding. Rain water WILL bounce off that concrete up onto that siga. Unless they have decent roof overhangs, they’re screwed
New video title: “Liquid flash, I put that shit on everything”
All the butt joints on the flashing seem like they'd be an entry point for any water coming down the wall. I'm surprised they don't call for a lap joint.
Yeah.. not real impressed by this.
Read all of the directions before installing
Matt, I need a builder in Central Florida that is able to do ICF. Do you know any?
👆👆Great fans🎊Congratulations🎁 dm for your reward
Metal drip edge should be under the interior corner flashing.
That stuff looks like Dow 995 I use for bomb blast security film attachment system.
Matt, you need lipstik for marking holes
25:24...make sure that stuff is compatible with FlowGuard...
That moistop masonry flashing was installed wrong according to Zip mfg instructions anyway. They put it behind the sheathing as if it were Thermoply, but it should be taped to the front of the zip.
Late comment, but it seems like no one reads the manufacturer's instructions, they just watch a demonstration at a trade show. I know there are a lot of products, with different ones on each job, and they get paid to build, not read. But someone should read the instructions for a product on each job site before using it.