I was happy to see you spray the hub. Rust can prevent the rotor from mounting properly and cause runout. I would also suggest greasing the outer edge of the hub that fits into the rotor to keep it from seizing.
The instructor was awesome! She had a great voice for this. I felt as if my aunt was helping me do my brakes. What a Great video! Very easy to follow. Thank you!!
+Jesse Hinds Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
The pace, camera work, and explanations are excellent and helping me a ton - a 2017 fiesta just arrived @ the pick and pull - excited to now go back today and practice front brake work - I might even get some more parts I watched your speaker video and got four speakers and two tweeters for $27 along with a few other small trim items I would never replace
Thank you i went to the ford dealer and they was over charging me for the fronts rotor and brakes 146.00 your site is awesome and they also added 179.00 labor just to front work. i will be ordering your pads and rotors today thanks again for the video.
+7thSojurn Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video. She’s an excellent technician. Wondering why the bleeder screw needs to be opened when setting the caliper piston. Won’t the brake fluid go back to the reservoir?
+Jim Gargas Thanks for checking us out! This allows the piston to retract easier and if you bleed this once you have everything installed this will flush out any possible back flow. As long as the stream coming from the screw is a constant stream, it is good to go! 1aauto.com
Great video!!! You mention at 9:10 a hardware kit. The tins, two boots and rubber bushins. I couldn't find that kit in your webpage. Can you share the link for this specific parts please? Thanks.
Awesome video. I just replace the pads because that's what I learned from friends. Never had any problems. When I have waited until the brakes squeal, I have rotated the rotors on disk brakes and rotated the drums on drum brakes (in back) because of pitting. If there are no grooves, there is no need to turn. Never heard of replacing rotor or drum unless very, very old car that has been turned so many times it is not safe (brake shop will tell you).
On a lot of cars since the 1980s, by the time the brakes squeal the rotor will be warped or so badly scored it needs either turned (if there's enough metal left) or replaced -- and if you're doing the work yourself, it's often cheaper to replace the rotors than have them turned (again, assuming you can't turn your own). I replaced rotors on my 1990 Aerostar for about $55 each (8 years or so ago), turning them would have cost over $100 a wheel and had the van out of service for a week (vs. same day done with replacement). It looks like with a Fiesta it's more of a PITA to even just replace pads than on any other car I've done brakes for (including front drums on a 1963 Galaxie) -- so mine, with 156,000 miles, is going to have to go into the shop. Time to start saving up, I guess...
by the time the new pads get to where the old pads are they would be missing that shaved edge too. ive done a few brake pad changes and 99% of pads have the shaved edges. Good video, its a shame you didnt encounter frozen slider bolts, semi rounded bolts on the bracket, as thats the normal situation i come across. still a good video, Great job.
Done mine today, watched this video tonight. Did not remove the caliper, did not open the bleeder valve. Pushed the pistons back in with the old pad against the piston and a 6" G-clamp. Sucked the excess fluid out the reservoir with a 50ml syringe. Good video though for doing a thorough clean.
In Nm calipers and main bolts recommended torque are 70Nm and 26 Nm, while 50 ftp and 20 ftp are roughly 68Nm and 27Nm, wonder if that difference matters or not
Anybody else here have a hate love relationship with their f*cking fiesta? Like it gets me to Point B and C from point A but god I wish I could sometimes just take a bat to the car
At 17:00 minutes mark, no grease applied to the pad tabs to minimize vibration noise (no grease on the caliper clips either). I wish that all these places that charge money for brake services would make a video that show EVERYTHING, not just 95%. If you make the decision to create a video, show the whole process.
The rust isn't gonna do anything when you put the rotor back on Yeah on the caliper yeah you cleaned it up but the backside where the rotor goes on come on I sounded like that crazy guy Biden
I'm not a mechanic but I have done that before on my own cars and not had any issue. But when she commented on that I can totally understand its a mistake now and the break dust could make it stick. Lesson learnt for me today.
No idea why she open the bleeder screw, that is not necessary. But it’s two extra steps, opening the bleeder screw, and then having to bleed the entire system again. The trick is not to open the system to any air unnecessarily. Other than that pretty accurate.
I swear there is something about a woman that can for real do some mechanic work. I hope someday I can marry a woman that will change my brakes and rotors. That is all
In hundreds of thousands of miles I put on cars and dozens of brake pad changes, I have never seen any reason to change a rotor. I don't understand the reasoning to change a rotor except to sell you more stuff and get money from you.
The only time you replace a rotor disc is when you have maxed its operational life span or when you were driving with completely worn out brake pads (steel on steel). Steel on steel results in groove out patterns or uneven thickness that will cause braking vibration, uneven brake pad wear or premature lifespan on newly installed brake pads due to the existing interface. Certain workshops do aftermarker skimming the rotor to even it out. It's recommended that you rather buy a new set than skim it. Cost of a new set vs the risk of faulty brakes is negligible (you are not purchasing one for Audi or BMW)
My sister drove her Fiesta until all brake pad material was gone, grinding metal to metal......New rotors. Wondered how it was possible, until I got in and started car to pump brakes up...... Stereo set to 11.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I was happy to see you spray the hub. Rust can prevent the rotor from mounting properly and cause runout. I would also suggest greasing the outer edge of the hub that fits into the rotor to keep it from seizing.
The instructor was awesome! She had a great voice for this. I felt as if my aunt was helping me do my brakes. What a Great video! Very easy to follow. Thank you!!
+Jesse Hinds Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Your voice is so relaxing!
Wow she is very good instructor,she speak real clear and explain very detailed
+Robert Gonzales Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
DO NOT FORGET: most rotors come with oils and such things that aren’t good, make sure to hit the entire rotor with brakleen.
The pace, camera work, and explanations are excellent and helping me a ton - a 2017 fiesta just arrived @ the pick and pull - excited to now go back today and practice front brake work - I might even get some more parts
I watched your speaker video and got four speakers and two tweeters for $27 along with a few other small trim items I would never replace
Nice video, the attention to detail and display of best practices is appreciated.
+Bernhard Schau Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you i went to the ford dealer and they was over charging me for the fronts rotor and brakes 146.00 your site is awesome and they also added 179.00 labor just to front work. i will be ordering your pads and rotors today thanks again for the video.
+7thSojurn Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Ford charged me $21 for pads, which is all that is required.
Great video. She’s an excellent technician. Wondering why the bleeder screw needs to be opened when setting the caliper piston. Won’t the brake fluid go back to the reservoir?
+Jim Gargas Thanks for checking us out! This allows the piston to retract easier and if you bleed this once you have everything installed this will flush out any possible back flow. As long as the stream coming from the screw is a constant stream, it is good to go! 1aauto.com
Yeah that parts not necessary. Just open the cap on the reservoir
Great video!!! You mention at 9:10 a hardware kit. The tins, two boots and rubber bushins. I couldn't find that kit in your webpage. Can you share the link for this specific parts please? Thanks.
Thanks so much, this was so helpful. Very detailed and easy to follow.👍
Fantastic instructional video. Clear, well shot. Could almost smell the brake dust 👍
Excellent instructor.
Awesome video. I just replace the pads because that's what I learned from friends. Never had any problems. When I have waited until the brakes squeal, I have rotated the rotors on disk brakes and rotated the drums on drum brakes (in back) because of pitting. If there are no grooves, there is no need to turn. Never heard of replacing rotor or drum unless very, very old car that has been turned so many times it is not safe (brake shop will tell you).
+Google User Thanks for the feedback!
On a lot of cars since the 1980s, by the time the brakes squeal the rotor will be warped or so badly scored it needs either turned (if there's enough metal left) or replaced -- and if you're doing the work yourself, it's often cheaper to replace the rotors than have them turned (again, assuming you can't turn your own). I replaced rotors on my 1990 Aerostar for about $55 each (8 years or so ago), turning them would have cost over $100 a wheel and had the van out of service for a week (vs. same day done with replacement).
It looks like with a Fiesta it's more of a PITA to even just replace pads than on any other car I've done brakes for (including front drums on a 1963 Galaxie) -- so mine, with 156,000 miles, is going to have to go into the shop. Time to start saving up, I guess...
Thank you for the video. I will have to purchase more things for my brake job.
by the time the new pads get to where the old pads are they would be missing that shaved edge too. ive done a few brake pad changes and 99% of pads have the shaved edges. Good video, its a shame you didnt encounter frozen slider bolts, semi rounded bolts on the bracket, as thats the normal situation i come across. still a good video, Great job.
Done mine today, watched this video tonight. Did not remove the caliper, did not open the bleeder valve. Pushed the pistons back in with the old pad against the piston and a 6" G-clamp. Sucked the excess fluid out the reservoir with a 50ml syringe. Good video though for doing a thorough clean.
Is the set up the same for 2015 ST models in the US as the fiesta in this video? Mines is all original factory parts, no mods.
Amazing job ... I learned a lot ... But yikes that fiesta is the dirtiest fiesta ever ... 😅
In Nm calipers and main bolts recommended torque are 70Nm and 26 Nm, while 50 ftp and 20 ftp are roughly 68Nm and 27Nm, wonder if that difference matters or not
1:06 oof
I had to replace my rims too after a pothole absolutely wrecked these factory dunks
This was so helpful. Thank you!!!
Did you have to bleed the brakes before starting this or doing this at all ? I have the 2013 Ford Fiesta SE 4 door hatchback thanks.
Anybody else here have a hate love relationship with their f*cking fiesta? Like it gets me to Point B and C from point A but god I wish I could sometimes just take a bat to the car
Quick question. I have a 2013 Ford Fiesta titanium hatch. Which side of the disc and top or bottom does the pad with the wear tab sit? Thank you.
Just did calipers, pads, and rotors on a ‘13 with TRQ parts
+TheBrakeMan Thank you for your order! We'd love to hear about your experience. Here's a link to leave us a review on Google: goo.gl/i5JFNY
Love that instructions very clear, she is good
At 17:00 minutes mark, no grease applied to the pad tabs to minimize vibration noise (no grease on the caliper clips either). I wish that all these places that charge money for brake services would make a video that show EVERYTHING, not just 95%. If you make the decision to create a video, show the whole process.
+G Wernette Thanks for the feedback. We'll pass this info along to our production team.
@G Wernette l’m not sure to understand you: should we or should we not apply grease on the pad tabs and the caliper clips?
It's nice learning
+Annavita Soto Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
After the bleeder screw was opened maybe Air is in the brake System? Is ist Right ? Actually the brake System must be bleed.
Thanks for answers.
You just did bleed them.
The rust isn't gonna do anything when you put the rotor back on Yeah on the caliper yeah you cleaned it up but the backside where the rotor goes on come on I sounded like that crazy guy Biden
How long can I expect the 1A brake pads and rotors to last?
+TehDogeMaster Brake pads and rotors typically last 40,000-50,000 miles with regular wear and tear.
Just broke a socket trying to get the bolts off
For the anti rattle clips how do you tell what side not to add the grease to?
excellent
+BIGS SCORE Thanks for the feedback!
You didn't show installing the inside pad - ???
I also don't put any brake grease on the ears of the pads or the top the hardware. I see a lot of mechanics do that it is a mistake.
I'm not a mechanic but I have done that before on my own cars and not had any issue. But when she commented on that I can totally understand its a mistake now and the break dust could make it stick. Lesson learnt for me today.
No idea why she open the bleeder screw, that is not necessary. But it’s two extra steps, opening the bleeder screw, and then having to bleed the entire system again. The trick is not to open the system to any air unnecessarily. Other than that pretty accurate.
Agreed! Just open the brake fluid filler cap to allow for the brake fluid to flow back.
I just don't see why you have to open the brake fluid lines. If you open them you have to bleed them.
"n i c e"
+FilmGeek Studios Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Lug nuts were pre broke
To much advertising of your personal products. Would be nice to see tools that are available in an average garage
I swear there is something about a woman that can for real do some mechanic work. I hope someday I can marry a woman that will change my brakes and rotors. That is all
In hundreds of thousands of miles I put on cars and dozens of brake pad changes, I have never seen any reason to change a rotor. I don't understand the reasoning to change a rotor except to sell you more stuff and get money from you.
The only time you replace a rotor disc is when you have maxed its operational life span or when you were driving with completely worn out brake pads (steel on steel).
Steel on steel results in groove out patterns or uneven thickness that will cause braking vibration, uneven brake pad wear or premature lifespan on newly installed brake pads due to the existing interface.
Certain workshops do aftermarker skimming the rotor to even it out. It's recommended that you rather buy a new set than skim it.
Cost of a new set vs the risk of faulty brakes is negligible (you are not purchasing one for Audi or BMW)
I bring work rotors and drums to a brake shop for turning. Not necessary to buy new unless nothing left. Brake shop will tell you.
My sister drove her Fiesta until all brake pad material was gone, grinding metal to metal......New rotors.
Wondered how it was possible, until I got in and started car to pump brakes up...... Stereo set to 11.