@@malichi2395 sometimes, a chicken scratch drawing, can sub for something copyrighted as intellectual property. But usually even that will be frowned upon by the powers that be.
Quinn, your narrative structure, videography, the narration itself and post-production are all so, so excellent. Thanks for what you do. It's very informative in a succinct, clear and engaging way. You really are a master of technical communication, in addition to your machining skills.
Interesting - and beautiful work as always. This might be the most deviation from a full-scale locomotive yet. Interesting to see the design! Re: Intake vs. Exhaust - this is an interesting thing in steam locomotives, and one that puzzled designers for a very long time. Pressure on the exhaust side between the cylinders and the blast nozzle was what they call backpressure - you want some, to excite the fire and draw fresh air in as well, but too much kills efficiency. That balance was a subject of some of the super-modern steam stuff, and makes for a fun read. The other thing that ties into this is the expansion of the steam - Stephenson valve gear has a range of cutoff of ~9% to 85% or so. The higher the cutoff number, the longer the intake is open and you're filling the cylinder with steam, but once the point of cutoff is hit (85% through the powerstroke, etc.) the steam expands, and that's where the economy of a steam locomotive is re-gained - rather than raw steam flow in, you utilize the pressure you have and it's reduction to drive the gear. So, the lower the cutoff, the less total steam, the less it'd occupy on the outlet side of things. If I had to guess, the designers went for a balance between inlet and outlet based on the engine running with the gear not at full cutoff, but close, for full power. Speed also plays into it as well... simple yet complex machines these things are. :D
@@johnmoorefilm nope, solder flows around 90° corners very well, but I like the way you think. Larger area with the extra chamfer would necessitate more solder anyway. Yes, it does assist, but not needed, is the tl;dr version.
Your knowledge and way to share it it’s just beautiful. Alec Steele could have used some tips from you when he restored his steam power hammer. I think, also, you’d find his restoration series amusing. You guys have a similar sense of humor
Brilliant as always, Sunday morning ritual, get at silly o' clock because I cat sleep in, feed the cats, get breakfast and watch your latest video. If this is number 50, then that 100 Sundays gone by since the start.
Such beautiful work on the Steam-Tee, Quinn! And making both the bottom fittings the same size adds an additional element of symmetry, don't you think? Too bad it will be facing the track all the time so no one will get to appreciate that sweet little upgrade!
Making that Tee fit in the frame was not easy. Not sure if I did something wrong somewhere. I suspect my opening in the frame isn’t quite right. One of those areas where Kozo doesn’t give any real dimensions, yet everything turns out to depend on it being perfect. 😅
Just a thought. Someone else has probably already mentioned this but, …… How about studs and nuts to hold the manifold to the cylinders? It seems that it would be a lot easier to feed nuts and washers in there as opposed to screws. Love the channel. Keep up the great content!
I used to run CNC drills in a PCB factory 30 years ago. 0,7mm drill was big, 0,5mm was about average and 0,3mm was on the small end. I think that the max rpm of the spindles was around 50-60k. Posalux and Excellon equipment, I liked Posalux more.
Love the detailed explanations. You are one of my favorite people to watch, and then go and try some of this stuff. This week I recently added a rotary table to my milling machine and used your videos as a reference to making the keys. Sure it is a simple part but because of your instruction I was able to avoid many mistakes and produce parts that secure the table to the mill with no wiggle at all. Next I am going to make the table for the top!
@@peterandhelendean938 Some of us have multiple favorites purely by the virtue of their content being different enough that a single favorite can not be selected.
Really enjoying this series as I have one to make with my son. On a full size loco the cylinders have drain cocks/valves to blow out any condensate. Some also have relief valves on the front and rear. Better than blowing the bloody covers off ( read in a Michael Cane accent 😂).
1:18 "If the cylinders are too cold, then the steam will turn into water vapor or, even worse, liquid water". Are "steam" and "water vapor" not the same thing?
No they aren’t. Live steam is an invisible superheated gas that has immense energy in it. Water vapour is the puffs of cloud that come off a boiling pot. That’s just water droplets small enough to float in the warm air.
The more accurate answer is they are the same thing in different states (gas or liquid). Steam is the gaseous form of water and water vapor is liquid water in very small droplets. In this application the goal is super-heated steam because we don't want the steam to contain water vapor which is rather abrasive at high velocity or condense to liquid as the engine would 'hydraulic'. We are only interested in the pressure of the steam to move the pistons. This all makes sense when you understand a little more about steam generation and the relationship between steam temperature and pressure. I will try to explain . . . . When you heat water at sea level atmospheric pressure it boils at 100°C. This is what you see coming off a boiling pot or kettle. This is Saturated Steam. No matter how much more energy you add to the water the temperature will not increase as all the energy goes into BOILING the water which is the act of changing it from a liquid to a gas. Depending on the conditions under which this is done the steam may also contain a small amount of liquid water in droplets (vapor) which is what you see. If you boil water in a boiler which allows the pressure to rise before it is released at a controlled rate the steam is no only higher pressure but higher temperature. Steam at atmospheric pressure is 100°C but if the pressure is allowed to increase to 10 time that, the boiling point of the water and thus, the temperature of the steam increases to 184°C. This is still classed as Saturated Steam, which is liquid water that has completely changed to the gaseous phase. Saturated Steam is widely used though out many industries for heating applications as the energy used for the phase change is quickly given up to any surface that is at a lower temperate by way of CONDENSING. As long as there is a sufficient supply of steam the temperature or pressure will not drop. You will however begin to create liquid water condensate that must be allowed to exit the space in which the steam is condensing. This is normally accomplished with a Steam Trap. If the goal of the steam generation is to produce mechanical force (turbine or piston engine) then you do not want steam that is going to condense readily as you don't want to deal with liquid condensate. This is achieved by further heating of the steam AFTER it has boiled and exited the vessel where the boiling it taking place. Typically a steam line is taken from the outlet of the boiler and passed back through the boilers' heat source ( fire box or fire tubes or the furnace in stationary boilers) to be heated above the Saturation Temperature that it was originally boiled at. Pressure is not increased. The result is SUPERHEATED STEAM. This steam will not condensed intermediately on contact with colder surfaces as the 'Superheat' must first be dissipated, which must be done through conduction. It is also 100% gas with absolutely no entrained water vapor that could damage valves and rotation turbines. TLDR; A Steam Engine changes the chemical energy stored in the fuel to mechanical energy (high pressure gas) by the generation of Superheated Steam which is then used by a Piston Engine to product torque which is what moves the load. This is by no means a full explanation as I have skipped many of the details.
@@KiwiBassHead I think the problem was an imprecision my understanding of terms. The way I was interpreting it was that water vapor was synonymous with steam and both mean the gaseous phase of water. I'm not a chemist, but I think this is the case in (at least some segment of) the chemistry world. I'm also not a steam engine expert, but I assume things are different in that world, too. Thanks for the detailed explanation though!
Ah that explains why the holes in my lawn got bigger! Since I stopped chasing the Moles they are under less pressure so need bigger holes to get out! 😂
Hey, We paperclip (or whatever) to the bottom of the DRO (Or whatever) so why I never saw anybody else stick a thumbnail of what you are working on on their TH-cam is beyond me. Another Quinn genius innovation. . - You da best (And getting better all the time.
I really liked having the image of what you’re making in the corner as you’re making it. I know you’ve done some similar like that in the past. But thought I’d make a point of saying it 👍
This may be my all time favorite 'show' of yours! Everything just clicks right as my curiosity is fed well. Love the use of language, and well done articulating this build assembly. As always -->❤🤗
When drilling the holes in the brass do you change the drill bit cutting tip angle to prevent the drill bit from "grabbing" the brass and drawing the drill bit quickly into the brass and possibly "buggering" up the hole?
how do brakes work on scale locomotives like this? - assuming they even exist. Will there be a tiny cross-compound, an auxiliary air compressor, or just normal friction brakes akin to a bike?
Great video, as usual but I am curious, I've done a bit of electrical soldering, and a touch of plumbing, but nothing like this, so I have a question. Around 4 minutes in you used the scratch rod while soldering the first big piece in, was that an issue of surface tension holding some of the solder back from flowing in at that point?
That is really coming together! Quick question; the boiler didn't have any brass due to the dezinc-ing (?) of steam, so at what point does brass fittings or manifolds become tolerable?
Hi Quinn, That was really interesting learning about the Oiler, Exhaust Deflector and keeping the Steam Chest Hot. I’m really learning a lot from this build. 😁👍👍
Hopefully this isn't a stupid question. But im wondering if when silver soldering these larger blocks, could it be done with a smaller flame for point control if the bulk ofvthe piece was heated from below with, say a electric stove top coil element. Let it heat soak to get to the required 600-700°C. Just thinking by letting it heat soak it "may" heat for evenly to give a more equal soldering joint. Thinking out loud here, open to thoughts
Perhaps I missed the part, but why was the junction made from two pieces instead of willing it from one solid piece? I know that would take a lot of time and material, but still... Less risk of leaks...
Other than the cost I would have used a solid piece of brass and cut away the waste with a bandsaw to be saved for other projects, but I have zero experience with silver soldering. To be honest the amount of silver soldering needed for this build intimidates me a lot.
@@Blondihacks anticipating this, you added it to the FAQ, great, a mention in the video to that self same item would have gone a ways toward saving comment time, reading and responding.
I’ve answered the question in dozens of videos over the years and mentioned the existence of the FAQ and it’s linked at the top of every video description. There’s only so much I can do. I can’t anticipate every question in every video, unfortunately.
@@Blondihacks You anticipated many questions with that FAQ. I've been watching for years now but never bothered to check the links section. Wish I had now, it's a great document.
I know I'm a strange man, but that is an incredibly attractive little part. Don't know why, maybe it's the little house ends. Very well done and shiny.
@@Blondihacks Thanks. Checked some pictures in the meantime (not that big into steam locomotives .. but love this series!), which also confirmed this to me .. I just was expecting a "spacious" cab behind the boiler .. but this type doesn't have that?
Yah the engineer may have a small space beside the boiler but the fireman stands in the coal bunker of the tender, basically. Helps keep everything short for switching.
A bit OT, but I fell in love with steam locomotives after inheriting my grandfather's (in his youth he was a stem engine chief on ships) book "The structure and operation of steam locomotives" from 1932. The external combustion paradigm was surprisingly advantageous, the cylinders had only work strokes and there were two independent motors in case of a failure. It was a small scale miracle how they managed to run all the auxiliary systems on steam. i've been twice to the Berlin's Deutsches Technikmuseum to drool over the Prussian S 10, if I'm not mistaken a 4-6 wheel plan medium hauler, but still an imposing sight.
I noticed on your lathe you have t slot chip covers. After watching your videos, I decided to purchase a PM 1130V lathe but can't seem to source t slot covers for the 10.5 mm slots. Can you point me in the right direction where I an purchase these?
That little part thumbnail in the corner is a great addition. Our small lathe runs 7k rpm, the big one 2800 with a 250mm chuck. Frightening to say the least 😅
A very rare episode with no cold open. I honestly don’t know how you do them so often. They are much more difficult than they look! Hey also Im pretty sure that the blue part of your torch flame is relatively cool. Hold it a bit further back for best results. Im sure you probably knew that but I just enjoy the sound my keyboard makes when I type stuff.
Having the figure in the top left is a fantastic addition to your videos. Its much easier to keep track of what you're working on!
I’ve always included the drawing or CAD model when available, but a lot of times I don’t have access to it, it’s copyrighted, or there just isn’t one.
@@Blondihacks Ah, the copyright issue is something I didnt think about. Thanks for that
I agree
@@malichi2395 sometimes, a chicken scratch drawing, can sub for something copyrighted as intellectual property. But usually even that will be frowned upon by the powers that be.
Yes Malichi, her video work is unsurpassed. I enjoy the video quality as much as the parts that she is making, both products are outstanding.
The “eagle scream” sound fx were not missed and much appreciated 😂❤
Ah yes, the ubiquitous, "eagle scream", which isn't really the sound an eagle makes at all.
Wow, super-fantastic job on a super-complex part! Loving the build 😊
10:35 “were gonna get clearance from the tower” genius pun
Oh yes! "It's looking like a boat now" (21:00) !!! But it's a series that I've enjoyed every second of it. Amazing !
Quinn, your narrative structure, videography, the narration itself and post-production are all so, so excellent. Thanks for what you do. It's very informative in a succinct, clear and engaging way. You really are a master of technical communication, in addition to your machining skills.
When this project wraps up, I’m going to watch this playlist front to back at least twice.
that's a very good new feature to show a drawing in the left corner ... 1000 thanks for your videos
Great tip gapping the joint with the center punch, awesome video as always!
I have to say, that is rather an elegant solution to help get and keep the cylinders warm.
Quinn I agree with LewHarriman 100% fabulous stuff. also love your sense of humor
Interesting - and beautiful work as always. This might be the most deviation from a full-scale locomotive yet. Interesting to see the design!
Re: Intake vs. Exhaust - this is an interesting thing in steam locomotives, and one that puzzled designers for a very long time. Pressure on the exhaust side between the cylinders and the blast nozzle was what they call backpressure - you want some, to excite the fire and draw fresh air in as well, but too much kills efficiency. That balance was a subject of some of the super-modern steam stuff, and makes for a fun read.
The other thing that ties into this is the expansion of the steam - Stephenson valve gear has a range of cutoff of ~9% to 85% or so. The higher the cutoff number, the longer the intake is open and you're filling the cylinder with steam, but once the point of cutoff is hit (85% through the powerstroke, etc.) the steam expands, and that's where the economy of a steam locomotive is re-gained - rather than raw steam flow in, you utilize the pressure you have and it's reduction to drive the gear. So, the lower the cutoff, the less total steam, the less it'd occupy on the outlet side of things. If I had to guess, the designers went for a balance between inlet and outlet based on the engine running with the gear not at full cutoff, but close, for full power. Speed also plays into it as well... simple yet complex machines these things are. :D
A neat trick with the solder is to flat it out with a hammer it stops it rolling away with the torch
Any advantage to filing a slight bevel to increase surface area? 🙏
@@johnmoorefilm nope, solder flows around 90° corners very well, but I like the way you think. Larger area with the extra chamfer would necessitate more solder anyway. Yes, it does assist, but not needed, is the tl;dr version.
Your knowledge and way to share it it’s just beautiful. Alec Steele could have used some tips from you when he restored his steam power hammer. I think, also, you’d find his restoration series amusing. You guys have a similar sense of humor
Very nice work Blondi. Your level of work and attention to detail is outstanding. Good video. Thanks
Brilliant as always,
Sunday morning ritual, get at silly o' clock because I cat sleep in, feed the cats, get breakfast and watch your latest video.
If this is number 50, then that 100 Sundays gone by since the start.
"Clearance from the tower."
Negative Brassfiler, the chip tray is full.
Such beautiful work on the Steam-Tee, Quinn! And making both the bottom fittings the same size adds an additional element of symmetry, don't you think? Too bad it will be facing the track all the time so no one will get to appreciate that sweet little upgrade!
Making that Tee fit in the frame was not easy. Not sure if I did something wrong somewhere. I suspect my opening in the frame isn’t quite right. One of those areas where Kozo doesn’t give any real dimensions, yet everything turns out to depend on it being perfect. 😅
Beautiful work Quinn, having patience and good quality tools makes for a happier project.
Just a thought. Someone else has probably already mentioned this but, ……
How about studs and nuts to hold the manifold to the cylinders? It seems that it would be a lot easier to feed nuts and washers in there as opposed to screws. Love the channel. Keep up the great content!
Honestly that’s a very good idea. I may just do that
Sweet part! Great video Quinn.
and to think they did this without computers ! Amazing !
I love it, super exited for le next part/s 🍻
I used to run CNC drills in a PCB factory 30 years ago. 0,7mm drill was big, 0,5mm was about average and 0,3mm was on the small end. I think that the max rpm of the spindles was around 50-60k. Posalux and Excellon equipment, I liked Posalux more.
Love the detailed explanations. You are one of my favorite people to watch, and then go and try some of this stuff. This week I recently added a rotary table to my milling machine and used your videos as a reference to making the keys. Sure it is a simple part but because of your instruction I was able to avoid many mistakes and produce parts that secure the table to the mill with no wiggle at all. Next I am going to make the table for the top!
One of??? Surely no qualifier required. Quin is the best. Quin for president!
@@peterandhelendean938 Some of us have multiple favorites purely by the virtue of their content being different enough that a single favorite can not be selected.
Really enjoying this series as I have one to make with my son. On a full size loco the cylinders have drain cocks/valves to blow out any condensate. Some also have relief valves on the front and rear. Better than blowing the bloody covers off ( read in a Michael Cane accent 😂).
This has drain cocks too
Thanks!
1:18 "If the cylinders are too cold, then the steam will turn into water vapor or, even worse, liquid water". Are "steam" and "water vapor" not the same thing?
I had the same question.
No they aren’t. Live steam is an invisible superheated gas that has immense energy in it. Water vapour is the puffs of cloud that come off a boiling pot. That’s just water droplets small enough to float in the warm air.
The more accurate answer is they are the same thing in different states (gas or liquid). Steam is the gaseous form of water and water vapor is liquid water in very small droplets.
In this application the goal is super-heated steam because we don't want the steam to contain water vapor which is rather abrasive at high velocity or condense to liquid as the engine would 'hydraulic'. We are only interested in the pressure of the steam to move the pistons.
This all makes sense when you understand a little more about steam generation and the relationship between steam temperature and pressure. I will try to explain . . . .
When you heat water at sea level atmospheric pressure it boils at 100°C. This is what you see coming off a boiling pot or kettle. This is Saturated Steam. No matter how much more energy you add to the water the temperature will not increase as all the energy goes into BOILING the water which is the act of changing it from a liquid to a gas. Depending on the conditions under which this is done the steam may also contain a small amount of liquid water in droplets (vapor) which is what you see.
If you boil water in a boiler which allows the pressure to rise before it is released at a controlled rate the steam is no only higher pressure but higher temperature. Steam at atmospheric pressure is 100°C but if the pressure is allowed to increase to 10 time that, the boiling point of the water and thus, the temperature of the steam increases to 184°C.
This is still classed as Saturated Steam, which is liquid water that has completely changed to the gaseous phase. Saturated Steam is widely used though out many industries for heating applications as the energy used for the phase change is quickly given up to any surface that is at a lower temperate by way of CONDENSING. As long as there is a sufficient supply of steam the temperature or pressure will not drop. You will however begin to create liquid water condensate that must be allowed to exit the space in which the steam is condensing. This is normally accomplished with a Steam Trap.
If the goal of the steam generation is to produce mechanical force (turbine or piston engine) then you do not want steam that is going to condense readily as you don't want to deal with liquid condensate. This is achieved by further heating of the steam AFTER it has boiled and exited the vessel where the boiling it taking place. Typically a steam line is taken from the outlet of the boiler and passed back through the boilers' heat source ( fire box or fire tubes or the furnace in stationary boilers) to be heated above the Saturation Temperature that it was originally boiled at. Pressure is not increased. The result is SUPERHEATED STEAM. This steam will not condensed intermediately on contact with colder surfaces as the 'Superheat' must first be dissipated, which must be done through conduction. It is also 100% gas with absolutely no entrained water vapor that could damage valves and rotation turbines.
TLDR;
A Steam Engine changes the chemical energy stored in the fuel to mechanical energy (high pressure gas) by the generation of Superheated Steam which is then used by a Piston Engine to product torque which is what moves the load.
This is by no means a full explanation as I have skipped many of the details.
@@KiwiBassHead I think the problem was an imprecision my understanding of terms. The way I was interpreting it was that water vapor was synonymous with steam and both mean the gaseous phase of water. I'm not a chemist, but I think this is the case in (at least some segment of) the chemistry world. I'm also not a steam engine expert, but I assume things are different in that world, too. Thanks for the detailed explanation though!
Outstanding machining through out this whole series. Bravo....
Thanks .. again a nice Video about old Tech 😉
Ah that explains why the holes in my lawn got bigger! Since I stopped chasing the Moles they are under less pressure so need bigger holes to get out! 😂
Hey, We paperclip (or whatever) to the bottom of the DRO (Or whatever) so why I never saw anybody else stick a thumbnail of what you are working on on their TH-cam is beyond me.
Another Quinn genius innovation. . - You da best (And getting better all the time.
Thanks for sharing the center-punch trick for soldering. That will be handy! 👍
Wow, can't believe this is already episode 50! 😮 😎
That is a very cool part.
I like the drawing in the upper left corner, icier to understand your great jobb.
Love seeing your progress! Thank you for sharing
I really liked having the image of what you’re making in the corner as you’re making it. I know you’ve done some similar like that in the past. But thought I’d make a point of saying it 👍
Fine work as always Quinn.
I love this series!
Very nice work.
the tiniest yahtzee
This may be my all time favorite 'show' of yours! Everything just clicks right as my curiosity is fed well. Love the use of language, and well done articulating this build assembly. As always -->❤🤗
I'm looking forward to learning about the lubrication system.
I'd think that the steam pressure and gravity would push the oil back down.
When drilling the holes in the brass do you change the drill bit cutting tip angle to prevent the drill bit from "grabbing" the brass and drawing the drill bit quickly into the brass and possibly "buggering" up the hole?
Not needed at this small size
she who controls the solder controls the steam universe
Sweet 👍
21:08 It really starts to look like a boat now.
Well said Quinn. 😂😅
Nice!
If one day I do manage to make the simpliest part of that locomotive by myself, I would consider that an achievement.
A very complicated part perfectly formed!
how do brakes work on scale locomotives like this? - assuming they even exist. Will there be a tiny cross-compound, an auxiliary air compressor, or just normal friction brakes akin to a bike?
Models this size don’t need them, but larger models have mechanical or steam pressure brake shoes, just like the real thing
awesome
19:38 that eagle cry 😂
19:39 Great functioning test, Quinn ❤👍
This feels like a major organ of the engine. Given the symmetry, maybe the kidneys?
Great video, as usual but I am curious, I've done a bit of electrical soldering, and a touch of plumbing, but nothing like this, so I have a question. Around 4 minutes in you used the scratch rod while soldering the first big piece in, was that an issue of surface tension holding some of the solder back from flowing in at that point?
That is really coming together! Quick question; the boiler didn't have any brass due to the dezinc-ing (?) of steam, so at what point does brass fittings or manifolds become tolerable?
See FAQ linked above
Merci
Maybe you went over this and I missed it, but won't all those brass parts exposed to live steam lead to issues with dezincification?
See FAQ linked above
@@Blondihacks Aaah, it's been ages since I last read that, figured as much that it wouldn't be a issue or you wouldn't have done it like this.
I'm curious, can you silver solder with something like a heat treat oven? Are there any pro's/cons to such a technique?
Another A3 video, yes!
Yessssssssssssss
Very nice video, thanks!
I have one question: isn’t any sealing needed between manifold and cylinders?
Blondihacks gives you wingggsssss! That part made me belly laugh. I love your work.
Do bull noses come in a bunch of different radii?
Hi Quinn, That was really interesting learning about the Oiler, Exhaust Deflector and keeping the Steam Chest Hot. I’m really learning a lot from this build. 😁👍👍
As always a beautiful job, no gaskets, steam leaks?
Thanks for another great video! The center punch trick is a keeper. Have you looked at using brass-colo[u]red silver solder?
The center punch to cause spacing for the solder just blew my mind and I wish I knew that years ago
Wow!
Hopefully this isn't a stupid question. But im wondering if when silver soldering these larger blocks, could it be done with a smaller flame for point control if the bulk ofvthe piece was heated from below with, say a electric stove top coil element. Let it heat soak to get to the required 600-700°C. Just thinking by letting it heat soak it "may" heat for evenly to give a more equal soldering joint. Thinking out loud here, open to thoughts
Perhaps I missed the part, but why was the junction made from two pieces instead of willing it from one solid piece? I know that would take a lot of time and material, but still... Less risk of leaks...
1:45 "This would be much to big to mill out of a solid piece of brass"
@@flarkel Ah, thanks!
Other than the cost I would have used a solid piece of brass and cut away the waste with a bandsaw to be saved for other projects, but I have zero experience with silver soldering. To be honest the amount of silver soldering needed for this build intimidates me a lot.
One might wonder... At what point do all of these fittings get a pressure test?
Love the part displayed on screen during the machining! Great idea and addition to your channel!
Ohhhhh this is so informative on how trains work, dang
Finger of Cthulhu is disappointed that you didn't use it for your sanity check lines.
Just out of curiosity are you going to use coal or propane for your fire?
I thought that since it's brass you can't let it come into contact with steam without risk of failure? Did I misunderstand how this works?
See FAQ linked above
@@Blondihacks Brilliant, thanks!
@@Blondihacks anticipating this, you added it to the FAQ, great, a mention in the video to that self same item would have gone a ways toward saving comment time, reading and responding.
I’ve answered the question in dozens of videos over the years and mentioned the existence of the FAQ and it’s linked at the top of every video description. There’s only so much I can do. I can’t anticipate every question in every video, unfortunately.
@@Blondihacks You anticipated many questions with that FAQ. I've been watching for years now but never bothered to check the links section. Wish I had now, it's a great document.
That was a great video. I never knew how complicated a steam locomotive was until watching your Chanel, Quinn. Thank you for sharing each week.
I know I'm a strange man, but that is an incredibly attractive little part. Don't know why, maybe it's the little house ends. Very well done and shiny.
Is that at the end how the boiler is supposed to sit later or does it go more to the front?
That’s exactly where it sits
@@Blondihacks Thanks. Checked some pictures in the meantime (not that big into steam locomotives .. but love this series!), which also confirmed this to me ..
I just was expecting a "spacious" cab behind the boiler .. but this type doesn't have that?
@@VintageTechFan nope, as a "yard engine ye lucky ya get a place to stand" as the saying goes.
Yah the engineer may have a small space beside the boiler but the fireman stands in the coal bunker of the tender, basically. Helps keep everything short for switching.
I realize we're not at final assembly, but are there any gaskets that go between the manifold and the steam chests? Or just some high-temp RTV/other?
20:00 "... sorry my thumb was covering the notes..."😂
That is looking terrific.
When you finish this project are you going to build another train?
A bit OT, but I fell in love with steam locomotives after inheriting my grandfather's (in his youth he was a stem engine chief on ships) book "The structure and operation of steam locomotives" from 1932. The external combustion paradigm was surprisingly advantageous, the cylinders had only work strokes and there were two independent motors in case of a failure. It was a small scale miracle how they managed to run all the auxiliary systems on steam. i've been twice to the Berlin's Deutsches Technikmuseum to drool over the Prussian S 10, if I'm not mistaken a 4-6 wheel plan medium hauler, but still an imposing sight.
Looking real neat. great job, looking forward to more steam loco content.
That's neat!
Oh, and... TRIGONOMETRY!?! Oh no.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
I tend to use friggenometry. “why won’t the friggen thing fit?”
2:46 That centre-popping is darned clever!
Always fun seeing the new parts come to life! Good job, as always!!
"Well, it is really looking like a boat now". 😂
🤔 I wonder how well it floats.
@@NicholasMarshall Oh, is that a requirement for a boat?
Next project is a UP Big Boy loco.
I noticed on your lathe you have t slot chip covers. After watching your videos, I decided to purchase a PM 1130V lathe but can't seem to source t slot covers for the 10.5 mm slots. Can you point me in the right direction where I an purchase these?
That little part thumbnail in the corner is a great addition. Our small lathe runs 7k rpm, the big one 2800 with a 250mm chuck. Frightening to say the least 😅
Great work Quinn
amazing work. I hope it never has to come out of the frame ever again.
You and me both
you do great work Quinn
A very rare episode with no cold open. I honestly don’t know how you do them so often. They are much more difficult than they look!
Hey also Im pretty sure that the blue part of your torch flame is relatively cool. Hold it a bit further back for best results. Im sure you probably knew that but I just enjoy the sound my keyboard makes when I type stuff.
It’s usually just the camera angle that makes the torch look close
Your videos are high quality. I appreciate that.