Great videos Billy.I think your budget build is just what we need more of these days.Too many high dollar builds out there and your calm methodic way of tackling each project is bang on. Too bad you were not closer as I have lots of parts to help your build along. Waiting for more videos to be coming out GREAT WORK!
Thank you for your support! Can't wait to get back on this project, feels too long ago. I'm working hard to get an engine to drop in. Thanks again for watching, have a great day
I had low compression on two cylinders ( # 7 & #8). It turned out the intake valves were too tight and it bent the pushrods too. Just backing off the adjustment by 1 mm and the idle increased by 100 rpm's right away. Still have to get the pushrods, even though they're just slightly bent.
I'm glad it helped. I dont have much experience with this stuff, but man its fun to learn. I think i have a bad lifter or something, because it keeps bending the push tubes, i changed rocker as well. Hoping to swap that boat anchor soon. Thanks for watching and have a great weekend
How can you tell when tightening down the push rods that they are perfect and not to tight. I am new to doing them and having to replace one bent push rod is my 71 c10.
@@Aaron-hd8ql This was my first time, so I really don't know. I counted the number of turns it took to remove the rocker arm, then moved the arm to the side. I pulled the push rod, and replaced it. Then I put the arm back on, and tightened it down the same amount of turns it took to take it off. I left out a 1/4-1/2 turn. So it took me 8 half turns to get the rocker arm off, I put it back on with 7 half turns. Then I cranked it. It sounded good, not ticking, and I went for a test drive.
I'm not the greatest mechanic or probably not even okay. I think if you're trying to go by a torque spec, you'd have to find top dead center and go through each cylinder individually as you move the respective intake or exhaust valve to fully closed. But I might be way over thinking this. I would probably try to get it close by sticking them all in and going like a half turn past hand tight, then starting it up and going by ear, when you hear and feel the valve stop clacking youre there. but this method is not easy and you can damage some things. We should probably both seek some professional advice and Def check out some more educated videos. Sorry I can't be of much help here, good luck on your build. Thank you for watching
Yes, I think so. It's been a while since I've had a ford engine, but I'm pretty sure even in the late model pushrod 5.0 they got the push tube on top of the lifter just like in my case. So yeah I think it would be pretty much the exact same process
Good question, but I just don't think that this engine will handle it. It's an late 70s early 80s Era emissions style engine that is really low on power to pass the tough restrictions of that time. It's currently a oem style 325cfm 2 barrel, the smallest 4 barrel I've seen is a 500 which I think would be tough to make reliable with this setup
@@billybuilds - 302s and 305s came with 4 bbl.s... pop one on... The Q-Jets only allow an engine to have as much fuel/air as it can swallow at any particular RPMs...
If a push rod was bent, likely a valve was bent, also... do a compression test on all 8 cylinders... Bent anything is prolly from weak valve springs... some Z28 level valve springs allowing 6,500 RPMs are available for about $35 for all 16... can be replaced without removing the head with a $5 valve spring lever tool... Of course, your 305 also needs some high compression pistons and Summit 1102 cam/lifters, as well...
When I was doing mine, I counted the number of turns I was making with my socket to get the rocker loose enough to come off the push rod. It was 8 half turns. So when I put the new push rod in, I tightened it down 7.5 half turns. I let it run a little bit, then adjusted according to feel, it needed about a 1/4 turn. so far so good, hasn't blown up yet lol. Thank you for watching!!
@@aidenvandeerve9991 I havent figured anything out yet, that push tube is still straight. but it still ticking, so i changed rocker as well. Still ticking, i think ive got a bad lifter, or even worse a bad cam.
Great videos Billy.I think your budget build is just what we need more of these days.Too many high dollar builds out there and your calm methodic way of tackling each project is bang on.
Too bad you were not closer as I have lots of parts to help your build along.
Waiting for more videos to be coming out
GREAT WORK!
Thank you for your support! Can't wait to get back on this project, feels too long ago. I'm working hard to get an engine to drop in. Thanks again for watching, have a great day
love the truck hope to see more videos about it
Thank you!
Keep On Truckin. Truck is looking good
I had low compression on two cylinders ( # 7 & #8). It turned out the intake valves were too tight and it bent the pushrods too. Just backing off the adjustment by 1 mm and the idle increased by 100 rpm's right away. Still have to get the pushrods, even though they're just slightly bent.
Maybe this is my problem as well, nice work
Thanks for the video bro. Exactly what I was looking for on my 350. And how much is involved.
I'm glad it helped. I dont have much experience with this stuff, but man its fun to learn. I think i have a bad lifter or something, because it keeps bending the push tubes, i changed rocker as well. Hoping to swap that boat anchor soon. Thanks for watching and have a great weekend
great diy Billy
Thank you, I was a bit nervous but it turned out all right
Tick, ping, ching not good. Good video man. Keep ‘em coming. Had to cruise over and show some love to your channel.
Always appreciated, thanks for stopping by. I'm pumped to see how your quad air hole sucker turns out
How can you tell when tightening down the push rods that they are perfect and not to tight. I am new to doing them and having to replace one bent push rod is my 71 c10.
@@Aaron-hd8ql This was my first time, so I really don't know. I counted the number of turns it took to remove the rocker arm, then moved the arm to the side. I pulled the push rod, and replaced it. Then I put the arm back on, and tightened it down the same amount of turns it took to take it off. I left out a 1/4-1/2 turn. So it took me 8 half turns to get the rocker arm off, I put it back on with 7 half turns. Then I cranked it. It sounded good, not ticking, and I went for a test drive.
Definitely need a fan shroud.
Especially living in Texas.
🥵
Very true, great idea. And, might keep me from losing a finger lol. Thank you!
If I took all my pushrods out on the one side and don’t know how many turns it is to go back to normal what is the torque specs for it?
I'm not the greatest mechanic or probably not even okay. I think if you're trying to go by a torque spec, you'd have to find top dead center and go through each cylinder individually as you move the respective intake or exhaust valve to fully closed. But I might be way over thinking this. I would probably try to get it close by sticking them all in and going like a half turn past hand tight, then starting it up and going by ear, when you hear and feel the valve stop clacking youre there. but this method is not easy and you can damage some things. We should probably both seek some professional advice and Def check out some more educated videos. Sorry I can't be of much help here, good luck on your build. Thank you for watching
I have the same problem on my sbf 302, should this process virtually be the same?
Yes, I think so. It's been a while since I've had a ford engine, but I'm pretty sure even in the late model pushrod 5.0 they got the push tube on top of the lifter just like in my case. So yeah I think it would be pretty much the exact same process
How come you don't put a four barrel carb on it?
Good question, but I just don't think that this engine will handle it. It's an late 70s early 80s Era emissions style engine that is really low on power to pass the tough restrictions of that time. It's currently a oem style 325cfm 2 barrel, the smallest 4 barrel I've seen is a 500 which I think would be tough to make reliable with this setup
@@billybuilds - 302s and 305s came with 4 bbl.s... pop one on... The Q-Jets only allow an engine to have as much fuel/air as it can swallow at any particular RPMs...
If a push rod was bent, likely a valve was bent, also... do a compression test on all 8 cylinders...
Bent anything is prolly from weak valve springs... some Z28 level valve springs allowing 6,500 RPMs are available for about $35 for all 16... can be replaced without removing the head with a $5 valve spring lever tool...
Of course, your 305 also needs some high compression pistons and Summit 1102 cam/lifters, as well...
I'm currently doing this and for some reason #8 cylinder keeps bending my pushrods l have already put 2 of them...
When I was doing mine, I counted the number of turns I was making with my socket to get the rocker loose enough to come off the push rod. It was 8 half turns. So when I put the new push rod in, I tightened it down 7.5 half turns. I let it run a little bit, then adjusted according to feel, it needed about a 1/4 turn. so far so good, hasn't blown up yet lol. Thank you for watching!!
Mine too have you figured out anything!!??
@@aidenvandeerve9991 I havent figured anything out yet, that push tube is still straight. but it still ticking, so i changed rocker as well. Still ticking, i think ive got a bad lifter, or even worse a bad cam.
Why no ls swap video
Hahaha I like your style, maybe in the near future....
Killer video. Everyone does LS swaps. Leave it be and enjoy the ride.
@@billybuilds Don't go with the herd and their monotonous ways. Leave it be. Stay old school