when the moisture from the application dries the scratches will show through. Its the slip solution filling them like a wet surface does not show the scratches but when dry it will. always paint correct before ppf.
Thank you Christian for this video. I've been wrapping cars for 3 years and have been thinking about going to PPF as well. Every video of yours I watch is informative. You explain everything in great detail. Thanks again.
Proper way of paint correcting a paint is to clay the surface before running your polisher on the paint. So the paint definitely is decontaminated( claybared ) Keep it up Christian. Love your vids
Oraguard 280 has NO self healing properties. U can check that out in the PDF of the material. It only has "slight" self healing, which means some scratches will "self heal" but 90% wont. Oraguard 280 is the same thing as 270, just has better liner, and thus has more gloss after production. Its a polyurethane without top layer protection. I dont recommend u use this film for periods more than 2 years.... Max... Problem is, polyurethane has sponge-like structure. Without proper protection layer, it collects dust, pollen and other contaminates. It becomes yellowish and dull. Especially on dark colors. On some hoods, it even started to crumble... I recommend u skip this Orafol product. I love Oracal 970RA but this puppie still needs problem solving done.. I apply vinyls for 20 years and Oraguard 270 and 280 made some projects complete failures. Hoods and roofs are almost a NO NO with this film (2 years and up). Try Hexis or Lumar. Suntek is also nice. Price is a bit high, but I learned one thing with PPFs.... Dont go cheap.... Never... Keep it UP CK... We love watching ur videos :)
Dusan, The 270 is a PVC film and is a more economical PPF or Stoneguard offering for off-road vehicles which would require more routine refreshes after being out on the track. You might consider this to be a lower-cost recreational PPF. The 280 is an 8 mil Polyurethane and does have self-healing characteristics from light swirl marks, scratches, etc. This film is desirable for longer-term applications on vehicles that are subject to rock chips, etc. It's designed to take the abuse and protect the paint. You are correct, this film is not top coated for stain resistance, as ORAFOL offers other options with top coated solutions. The 280 is perfect for vehicles that are in rugged snowy type conditions, where roads are crumbling and rock chips are common, and constant car washes are called for. The film maintains its integrity and doesn't crumble as you mention. Good feedback, none the less. Just keep in mind that 270 and 280 are completely different films and shouldn't be classified in the same category.
@@joshculverhouse7387 I suppose u are talking from North American market perspective. Orafol made several presentation here in east Europe, presenting Oraguard 270 as cheaper PU option. I even have printed datasheets back in my shop, which we got from Orafol representative. It clearly states PU not polymer. I've sent the crumbling samples of 280 to Orafol in Germany with application video. Never did get a reply from them. Crumbling appeared in the upper sections of the hood close to windshield. Made my life a living hell those few days. Had to pay for new paint. After contacting several colleagues from Moscow and Zagreb, they had same issues and switched to other products. I DO thank u very much for your reply, couse communication is the ONLY way to solve issues like this. Your German colleagues does not seem to share your work ethics :)
Firstly, I should say that it’s really easy to get obsessed with CK's voice, hahaha XD… I’ve worked in Polyurethane industry for 10 years and totally agree with Dusan's view of PPFs- “Don’t go cheap”. Currently, most of those PPFs are made from PVC and TPU substrates. Both of them are transparent and hard to tell the two materials if just look at them. 1) PVC is a kind of tough plastic, must put a lot of plasticizers in to make the softer films. Both of plasticizers and PVC itself are not good for human health. PVC PPF is Cheaper/ Harder handle/ Yellowing/ Adhesive residual/ Cracks/Non-biodegraded and hazardous to burn or bury/ Service period general no more than 3 years 2) TPU is a kind of softer resin and does not need any plasticizers during processing. It has two types, Aromatic and Aliphatic. The most difference between them is Aliphatic TPU does not have the gene of yellowing and PPF will never turn yellow. TPU PPF is Expensive/ Elastic and flexible / Anti-yellowing/ Self-healing/ No Adhesive residual/ No Cracks or bubbles/ Excellent resistance of abrasion, oil, low temperature, etc./ Biodegraded and no hazardous to burn or bury/ Service period general over 5 years So, HOW to identify PVC and TPU PPFs? The easiest way is burning them(a small piece is enough for testing): PVC has a green flame and smelly gas (harm to health) when we put it on fire. It’s also hard to combust, no melting. TPU has a yellow flame and a slightly but comfortable aromatic odor, white smoke. It’s very easy to combust and has melting drops. Finally, let’s talk a bit about the costs. Put the processing expenses aside, just rough costs comparisons of raw materials: Aromatic TPU resin prices are 2-3 times of PVC particles'; Aliphatic TPU resin prices are 2-3 times of Aromatic type's. Well, please “Don’t go cheap”, and let’s pay a bit more to protect your health and the earth :-)
Use rapid-tac works better and evaporates if any is left. Also if you clean your hands really well...spray the surface and rub the solution around by hand it will remove the air bubbles from the solution. (I do this everyday) big flat-ish areas, you can use a window squeegee. Makes install time cut in half at least (finish with a rubber small squeegee. 👍
Lots of places do Xpel. Them and 3M are the biggest in the US. I'm at 5 years on my Xpel Pro install and happy with it, but I'm starting to see bigger hits take their toll on it. Will do PPF on the front of any car in the future. Great for those that do loads of highway driving.
Installing PPF over swirls is not the right way to do it. Paint correct it first, then PPF it. Your customer will thank you and the vehicle won't look like crap especially if you're only doing a partial front end
I will be starting to offer PPF for my business very soon. This is a great product and video
Please do more ppf installs!
More ppf installs!
I see you've been utilizing the new Jeep! That tan looks good!
It looks like he was wearing his sun glasses. LOL
👍🏻I I enjoyed the video and liked how it looked like it brought out the fact that the paint had flick in it more
when the moisture from the application dries the scratches will show through. Its the slip solution filling them like a wet surface does not show the scratches but when dry it will. always paint correct before ppf.
Agree
Thank you Christian for this video. I've been wrapping cars for 3 years and have been thinking about going to PPF as well. Every video of yours I watch is informative. You explain everything in great detail. Thanks again.
Proper way of paint correcting a paint is to clay the surface before running your polisher on the paint. So the paint definitely is decontaminated( claybared )
Keep it up Christian. Love your vids
Ck wraps disassembly videos?
Oraguard 280 has NO self healing properties. U can check that out in the PDF of the material. It only has "slight" self healing, which means some scratches will "self heal" but 90% wont.
Oraguard 280 is the same thing as 270, just has better liner, and thus has more gloss after production. Its a polyurethane without top layer protection. I dont recommend u use this film for periods more than 2 years.... Max...
Problem is, polyurethane has sponge-like structure. Without proper protection layer, it collects dust, pollen and other contaminates. It becomes yellowish and dull. Especially on dark colors. On some hoods, it even started to crumble...
I recommend u skip this Orafol product. I love Oracal 970RA but this puppie still needs problem solving done.. I apply vinyls for 20 years and Oraguard 270 and 280 made some projects complete failures. Hoods and roofs are almost a NO NO with this film (2 years and up).
Try Hexis or Lumar. Suntek is also nice. Price is a bit high, but I learned one thing with PPFs.... Dont go cheap.... Never...
Keep it UP CK... We love watching ur videos :)
Dusan,
The 270 is a PVC film and is a more economical PPF or Stoneguard offering for off-road vehicles which would require more routine refreshes after being out on the track. You might consider this to be a lower-cost recreational PPF.
The 280 is an 8 mil Polyurethane and does have self-healing characteristics from light swirl marks, scratches, etc. This film is desirable for longer-term applications on vehicles that are subject to rock chips, etc. It's designed to take the abuse and protect the paint. You are correct, this film is not top coated for stain resistance, as ORAFOL offers other options with top coated solutions.
The 280 is perfect for vehicles that are in rugged snowy type conditions, where roads are crumbling and rock chips are common, and constant car washes are called for. The film maintains its integrity and doesn't crumble as you mention.
Good feedback, none the less. Just keep in mind that 270 and 280 are completely different films and shouldn't be classified in the same category.
@@joshculverhouse7387 I suppose u are talking from North American market perspective. Orafol made several presentation here in east Europe, presenting Oraguard 270 as cheaper PU option. I even have printed datasheets back in my shop, which we got from Orafol representative. It clearly states PU not polymer.
I've sent the crumbling samples of 280 to Orafol in Germany with application video.
Never did get a reply from them. Crumbling appeared in the upper sections of the hood close to windshield. Made my life a living hell those few days. Had to pay for new paint.
After contacting several colleagues from Moscow and Zagreb, they had same issues and switched to other products.
I DO thank u very much for your reply, couse communication is the ONLY way to solve issues like this. Your German colleagues does not seem to share your work ethics :)
Firstly, I should say that it’s really easy to get obsessed with CK's voice, hahaha XD…
I’ve worked in Polyurethane industry for 10 years and totally agree with Dusan's view of PPFs- “Don’t go cheap”.
Currently, most of those PPFs are made from PVC and TPU substrates. Both of them are transparent and hard to tell the two materials if just look at them.
1) PVC is a kind of tough plastic, must put a lot of plasticizers in to make the softer films. Both of plasticizers and PVC itself are not good for human health.
PVC PPF is Cheaper/ Harder handle/ Yellowing/ Adhesive residual/ Cracks/Non-biodegraded and hazardous to burn or bury/ Service period general no more than 3 years
2) TPU is a kind of softer resin and does not need any plasticizers during processing. It has two types, Aromatic and Aliphatic. The most difference between them is Aliphatic TPU does not have the gene of yellowing and PPF will never turn yellow.
TPU PPF is Expensive/ Elastic and flexible / Anti-yellowing/ Self-healing/ No Adhesive residual/ No Cracks or bubbles/ Excellent resistance of abrasion, oil, low temperature, etc./ Biodegraded and no hazardous to burn or bury/
Service period general over 5 years
So, HOW to identify PVC and TPU PPFs? The easiest way is burning them(a small piece is enough for testing):
PVC has a green flame and smelly gas (harm to health) when we put it on fire. It’s also hard to combust, no melting.
TPU has a yellow flame and a slightly but comfortable aromatic odor, white smoke. It’s very easy to combust and has melting drops.
Finally, let’s talk a bit about the costs. Put the processing expenses aside, just rough costs comparisons of raw materials:
Aromatic TPU resin prices are 2-3 times of PVC particles';
Aliphatic TPU resin prices are 2-3 times of Aromatic type's.
Well, please “Don’t go cheap”, and let’s pay a bit more to protect your health and the earth :-)
What if you first wrap the hood with carbon fiber vinyl and then put the PPF in the front of the hood?
Another great video, thank you. Have you tried matte PPF?
Would/can you use PPF ontop of vinyl to protect your wrapped car?
hey CK where do you get this film.. there's no link
Awesome warping as always bruh
Right on CK!
Ppfilm Chris do they do that in a peal finish? 😀
Would doing this on chrome trim pieces cover blemishes?
Another good Video man. 👍
Use rapid-tac works better and evaporates if any is left. Also if you clean your hands really well...spray the surface and rub the solution around by hand it will remove the air bubbles from the solution. (I do this everyday) big flat-ish areas, you can use a window squeegee. Makes install time cut in half at least (finish with a rubber small squeegee. 👍
What’s the difference between 270 and 280? (Shown on video) besides thickness
Is this something your offering now? I think in one of you latest videos you said you don't. If you do, is it comparable in price to colour wraps?
id like to see more PPF
maybe even more brands not just installs
Ck wraps can you use this application on the seadoo trix???
Good video
not sure would this wet technique worked for concave surfaces..?
PPF "how to" videos would be great!
thank you for the video it is really helpful
I have an Xpel film is that a good brand too?
Lots of places do Xpel. Them and 3M are the biggest in the US. I'm at 5 years on my Xpel Pro install and happy with it, but I'm starting to see bigger hits take their toll on it. Will do PPF on the front of any car in the future. Great for those that do loads of highway driving.
Karl Poglitsch nice thanks :)
Awesome video! So do you recommend getting a paint correction before installing PPF... or will it have the same result without a paint correction?
Anyone have a favorite PPF install video from CK Wraps?
Whatever you do don’t use Vvidd PPF...left glue staining my hood 🤬
SoundBankzRec just means you squeegeed too hard. Any film will do that.
@@leviwday I'm sry friend but thats nonsense....
Installing PPF over swirls is not the right way to do it. Paint correct it first, then PPF it. Your customer will thank you and the vehicle won't look like crap especially if you're only doing a partial front end
Paint scratches will never go away. Doesn’t matter what you use. They’re still there. All hype.
If you want the best ppf on the market use suntek.