How to Get Better at Small Crimps - The Vacuum Style Ft. Aidan Roberts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2024
- Aidan Roberts is known as one of the strongest boulderers in the world, now having his sights set on a potential new V17 in Switzerland - aka the Midnight Project. But, Aidan is relatively unique in his love for small crimps and the style of climbing he uses to operate at the highest level on this terrain. This climbing method has been coined the "Vacuum Style".
In this video Aidan explains what the vacuum style is, how the mechanics work for crazy small crimps AND how to train for it! Importantly, it is not just about finger strength and has a lot to do with hip mobility and shoulder strength. Aidan shows climbing specific exercises for each of the key factors that will help you take your crimping to the next level.
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“Most of my training is on the board” all I needed to hear
That's super insightful. Makes so much sense to go beyond the single-metric approach (fingerstrength) to a more holistic approach of which parts of the body contribute to what. Amazing content! Also, Aidan's hip mobility is bonkers.
Could we please 🙏 get all this as a 6-week training plan on the Crimpd app?
Likely not happening since lattice stopped working with crimpd and have their own app now
@@eidreen oh wow I didn't know this. I'll check it out.
The lattice app is for their performance coaching plan and lite plans only not for free access like crimpd
@@eidreenah, so no more updates on the app anymore?
@@hyau23nah, lattice just stopped their colaboration with crimpd. They are still going. Crimped promotes their app on several platforms (youtube and pods e.g. Emil and Nugget) So I'm sure they have no intention of stopping.
Great video. Aidan really is absurdly strong, though. I have shoulder rotations in my plan and 8 reps of 5kg is about all I can manage in a set. Seeing him do it with what looks like 15kg is nuts!
He’s done over 20kg in previous videos
The weight is double the size of his head LOL =D
Those hip stretches are gold. Definitely going to consider doing adding that to my training
If you do add them I would recommend tracking your progress somehow. If you dont stretching can seem like you arent making progress and youll stop. that happened to me a few months ago and i just recently started again, only this time im tracking my progress
@@wyattmadson hah yeah I'm actually a physiotherapist myself, so I'm huge on those specific, measurable, attainable, relevant, and timed goals. It's definitely important to measure progress, and in this case it's pretty easy with a tape measure and rate of perceived exertion (out of 10). If you gain distance, that's obviously an improvement, but even if you don't gain any more range, being able to access that range with less effort is a big improvement. Sometimes the "plateau" is just when you are improving on another metric than your original target.
I love how chill and helpful you guys are. Thanks for this tidbit, going to try it out.
i clicked this shit so goddamn fast 😅
Amazing video, a lot of info, with amazing background in a compact and easily comprehendible format. Probs to Aidan for also presenting his part so well!
honestly the best climbing specific video so far! never heard of the vacuum style but that is exactly what I'm lacking.
i think that was by far the best video you have released yet.
Wow, this makes a lot of sense. Thanks Aidan & Lattice for another 💎
Thank you Lattice! Will add these into my routine!!
not even a minute into hearing aiden and he instantanously makes more sense than every other training video ou there
Incredibly insightful and helpful, thanks a lot!
Climbed with him in Leeds last Friday. Such a lovely man. Very enthusiastic. excited to see what happens this season!
*Cough* 9A+ *cough*
Where abouts in Leeds was he climbing?
It was this tenzing thing, he was showing me and others some tips on board climbing. I’m by all means no decent climber just was a pleasure to watch him and chat away
Nice. Love the concentration on the critical components here.
this is the only training video that i will ever need. thank you so much. if there are any other exercises to further improve in this style id love to know!
For the external rotation shoulder exercise, resistance bands work really well. They have higher resistance at the end of the range of motion so they're an ideal solution to the problem you mentioned with dumbbells.
I've been doing a lot of warm up for my rotator cuffs recently and this one is a go to
Yeah resistance bands are great for this one! The only down side is it's less measurable for progressive overload. Not a problem for warm-ups though.
So much stuff for me to work on thank you so much.
godam we know aidan for his crazy fingers but his flexibility is on point
The more flexibility and mobility you have the less strength you need so you appear stronger because you have better direction of pull/push on holds
Great video, thanks a lot!
Thank you so much for this
I think another area to focus on is scapular mobility/strength. Many of the positions Aidan holds in this video require quite a lot of scapular strength as well.
Great video!! 😁
Great stuff guys!
Excellent, thanks a lot! I'm a coach working with kids ages 9-12, most of whom are naturally well stretched, but some will definitely benefit from your advice.
Finally, some proper quality content!
The covered content is superb... but here the on the wall section was much to short. Would be super interesting to breakdown the technical elements, good vs. bad execution, when to apply, when not, ...
Brilliant 😊💪🙏
Great video, but most of us don't have anywhere near this level of flexibility so it's hard to connect with the exercises even when you show a 'less flexible version' because of the degree of Aidan's flexibility throughout his body on many movements - for example on the pancake progressions Aidain has great shoulder and lower back flexibility - a fair few of up would have a rounded back and or shoulders. Ergo. A video like this it would be great to have Aidan, and then have a mere mortal with poor flexibility doing the same exercises, so we can see what that looks like. I think that would make this video even better.
Damn, if you're a climber and the easiest versions are too difficult for you, then seriously what the hell? I've been sedentary for most of my life and have started working on my flexibility in the last 2 years. Still stiff as a board in my opinion, but I wouldn't consider these easiest options as something that is impossible for 'mere mortals'.
If you're looking for something basic, then there are countless beginner level flexibility resources available on TH-cam (e.g. Tom Merrick, Livinleggins or anything else really) if you're struggling with the easiest regressions shown here. Not every piece of content needs to cater to beginners, it's nice to have something more intermediate/ advanced tbh.
@@RazorOfOccam perhaps re-read my comment as you have misinterpreted it.
@@jallan7896he did but still thanks for the recomendations!
I was even worse than expected at most of these. Particularly surprised by the prone military press. Now I know what to work on, appreciate the exercises and explanations as always
Thanks guys that was cool
Great explanation for how to do it. I do think however that Aidans foot strength is highly overlooked. I mean he has to put all that force through his big toe on equally tiny edges. Have you ever tried that, my god I can barely stand on one foot on 15mm but I can almost hang from one arm on 20mm. Aidan looks like he can put his entire body weight on something ridiculous like 6mm, that’s one foot. Praise the foot strength!
D to G is the dream!
I've been doing variations on these shoulder rotation exercises using suspension trainers/rings for years now. More because of handstand pressing related goals, i do variations on face pulls with the military press at full contraction. Or even lifting to the military press using face pulls to superset it down. I haven't really used progressive overload to progress the exercises, so i'll try a period of these isolated versions, practice them a bit and do a max strength phase to see if i can ramp up the weights and see some benefits.
Now make one focused on compression climbing, please!
The only thing I usually find lacking in these videos is how often to train, and where to put in training schedule.
Aidan's frog is insane!!! Amazing flex!
Contrary to popular belief and often overlooked is that strength training is effective for increasing muscle flexibilty.
Also I find it interesting that with finger training it is underlined that training needs to be angle specific but this specificity rule doesn't seem to not apply on shoulder rotation exercise (which ofcourse it does). If you ask me shoulder rotation exercises might be relevant in the early stages of shoulder rehab, but furthermore has no specificity to climbing so the transfer of a rotation exercise to climbing would be close to zero. Also we know that a pull (shoulder extension) or push (shoulder flexion) motion or abduction also activates the rotatorcuff. This knowledge gives us the oppertunity to have exercises that target the rotatorcuff and are climbing specific so that there is a transfer to on the wall climbing.
Putting the vacuum of interstellar space on your fingertips is aid!
Aidian, I'm warm when I hang the 8mm in 3 finger acute angle. Then I can start to try Roberts 😂😂 you monster
Wow that's really outside the box thinking.
i have tried the frog, and it feels like my hips have bone on bone contact it hurts to push very far. to see aiden do the frog the first thing I said was "thats rediculous". glad to see you mention that in the video, makes me feel not alone.
In a past video about flexibility they told to tilt back your pelvis to avoid bone contact
Also just be careful people anatomy vary so going slow is essential. Its rare but some people hips differ so much that it may be unhealthy for them to do the split
I said your username when I saw Aiden do the frog stretch
Is it possible that the supine frog with the weights might cause lower back pain? I think it the root of my lower back pain comes from this exercise
Hips six inches closer, got it. One ticket to Lappnor please!
When doing the standing pancake fold, i get the feeling of sliding on my feet which is quite uncomfortable.. how should i avoid this?
Great stuff. I wonder whether the shoulder emphasis is the same for tiny crimps but on slabs or vertical walls. Is it?
Less than steep climbing because you are not fighting gravity ripping you off as much but still important to be able to stick to the wall when moving between holds. The hip mobility work would become even more important on the other hand for more vertical terrain
@@slapthesloper Yep, hip mobility is a total must. I guess none of this can be bad anyway. Cheers.
If you have access to a cable machine you can much more easily work the ranges of motion that you want with that rather than free weights. For example if you set up the cable pulley so that it is low to the ground and in front of you, the resistance for the rotator cuff exercise is consistent through the entire range of motion rather than much harder at the top or the bottom. Cables are amazing for working entire ranges of motion because of the ability to have consistent resistance through very wide ranges.
thats not true, because the angle you are pulling from does change within the movement, while the anchor stays fixed. The only way to hit it through the full range of motion is through using a machine with fixed levers and then having a specific "translator"-piece to have equal forced throughout the whole movement. Most highlevel Fitness and Rehabilitation devices use that (not the cheap ones you find in the usual gyms tho). This too has drawbacks, like less specificy to movement.
@groghnash I have a cable machine at home and it's extremely easy to set it up so that the angle of resistance closely matches the range of motion of the exercise. Obviously it isn't 100% perfect but it's noticeably way better than free weights. Much easier to overload safely as well.
Sounds like a good method but how would you keep your elbows in place so you can isolate it to the rotator cuffs?
@laavo3754 you don't need anything if you don't want. You can just stand and do the same arcing motion pulling the cable handle and focus on rotating , not pulling back like a facepull. You can also sit on a bench or the floor if you want to prop your arm against it or your leg like Aiden did. I just do them standing, simple and really effective.
How do u propose ppl do the shoulder retraction so u aren’t facing down on the floor where ppl step on with shoes ? Seems very unsanitary and idk how to do that in a gym setting
Do you feel any pain when you do the frog?
Wondering for shoulder rotation would bands be pretty good for this instead of bench? Can still get that angle and even increases in tension at the peak. At that point - is this basically a face pull?
I was thinking the same thing
Is it not possible to do the pan cake lifts with legs closed or barely spread out? It should train the same muscle, just without the necessity to have great outside rotational hip mobility.
Yeah this is possible, I call these Pike Leg Lifts. Great hip flexor activation but leg glute activation of hip abduction mobility.
Do we need rest days when doing the weighted frog and pancake stretches, or are they fine to do everyday?
You definitely want rest days. With stretching this intense often just 2x per week is enough.
Awesome video! Cant wait to implement some of these exercises.
I'd like to add a point about the vacuum style in terms of the effect on the shoulder. I personally find the vacuum/chicken wing position very strong and very reliable. However long term, if you are not highly diligent about the strength, mobility and and recovery of the shoulder, youre likely to create injury through relying on this style.
I totally understand the final point was to think about your personal style and create exercises to optimise this, but the message is still very much about the effectiveness of this style and how to achieve it.
I would argue the average climber should maintain a focus on avoiding chicken winging, and continue to maintain shoulder and hip health to optimise these positions regardless.
Would you recommend this as a rest days routine, or the fatigue will become to high for us, mare mortals?
Which routine? Just the flex stuff or the shoulders and board climbing too?
Flex and shoulders stuff@@LatticeTraining
@@blaszko333 flexibility work is ok on a rest day but only if it's more relaxed stretching. A lot of the loaded stretch can lead to DOMS so not good if you are aiming to rest and recover. The shoulder workout is definitely not a rest day activity.
would facepulls with resistance bands not be a great excercise for the external rotation, rather than pronated curls, bonus you can work on both arms at the same time
Facepulls often bias the rear delts. Rotator cuff is definitely present though but some prefer specific work
The benefit of doing external rotation this way is we support the upper arm and isolate the external rotator cuff. Face pulls are great but serves a slightly different purpose. More activation on the delts, traps and rhomboids.
It's all in the hips.
can this be added to crimpd please??
We don't own crimpd, they are independent from Lattice.
The tips from 10 minutes onwards are useful to prevent injury. Also do finger extensors (eg w/ a rubber band), lateral raises, wrist rotation and wrist extension/contraction, as well as neck exercises. If you are consistent with this it is hard to get injured, and you can push your body to and beyond the limits. (Bonus tip: consider pre-taping fingers if you are doing a lot of full crimps on a project; «pre» as in before you feel pain)
"Welcome to how to crip small crimps...... Let's get into the main technique, hip flexibility!"
*I only jest.
steching?!?! Nah think ill stick to 20mm one arm weighted hangs
That man is made out of rubber!
I met my partner because of these stretches
This video basicaly open new grades V7-V9
WOW, this guy is a frog... 🥵
4:00 Why I can only do ~100°. 😬
.
New video title "how to turbo crimp on grifters"
HIPS
First
just vacuum it bro, uh what?
ah yes, surely it is this handful of extremely specific, difficult to setup exercises and not spending multiple days every week over the course of multiple years consistently climbing on progressively smaller holds on progressively steeper walls. at last, the secret is revealed. thank you, lattice, for as always sharing practical, generalizable training content that will surely help less experienced climbers develop into skilled, well rounded athletes.
Not sure if sarcastic or not? But I may be mistaken. Worth noting this is a case study of an individual V17 climber, so is unlikely to be specific to any individual watching. You might find part useful or at least interesting. If you want more generalized advise, you're in luck. We have a whole playlist aimed at beginners - th-cam.com/video/pi6B3b0s7_U/w-d-xo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Honestly I heard grubbybaby fucks
maybe would have helped to have someone slightly more normal in the video next time please, lol
Try climbing for fun not to be cool. Alex climbs for for himself. Gym climbers ruined our sport
Hi James, I think there is enough room for everyone in climbing to have their own path. Climbing can be what ever you want it to be. Not sure who Alex is but I am glad he has found his own path.