For my CO2 laser the problem I have is with radiative heat escape, the target actually glows. So I think the sensor needs to be able to dissipate energy as fast as it comes in
Great video! Can you help me, is that matter which side of the peltier attached to the heatsink? Or just the voltage is inverted? Which side do you recommend, colt or hot?
If you have a temperature difference on the Peltier junction, it generates a voltage that you can measure. It doesn't matter if the temperature difference is created by the laser beam or the resistive heater wire I glued to the front of the Peltier junction. So I powered the resistive heater (not the Peltier junction) and I measured the resulting voltage on the Peltier junction leads. Hope this helps!
@@JoyeMusiccom does it improve in spreading the heat generated by the laser, because I was thinking of using a copper heat spreader plate and using an adhesive to stick to the Peltier surface
@@JoyeMusiccom Also, what is the power of your laser, mine is 10W, does the Peltier get damaged. I'm thinking of buying the same module you had mentioned in the description.
@@dr.technologist696 Yes, the calibration factor would be a little closer to one if you use a copper or aluminum heat spreader glued to the Peltier surface first. But there will still be reflection to calibrate out, and that's a significant reflection. Also, you need to defocus the laser beam or it will burn the paint!
There are several great articles and build threads on the laser pointer forums about making DIY low-cost laser power meters. Some of the folks who sell them...act like it’s impossible… And although you might not get perfect accuracy…. It’s much more accurate than some would like you to believe. The build threads are information rich, and extremely interesting! They discuss a lot of the important topics like heat spreading and surface finishes of the sensor. Good luck guys!
Wish there were more DIY laser stuff on TH-cam. If you’re not aware of him… Check out “zenodilodon”, also check out “Marco reps”. Both of whom are two of my favorite laser channels, And do some really great in-depth scientific and optical laser experiments. I would love to see more laser experiments on TH-cam, especially pertaining to decommissioned laser equipment and optical components. You can purchase ridiculously powerful lasers from eBay that have been retired out of the industrial, military, and medical fields. I’m talking multiple dozens of watts for pennies on the dollar. I got a beautiful 45watt (yes 45,000mw) Jenoptik Fiber laser last month for under $100. Truly a golden age for technology stuff on eBay!
Cool, I'll look those two folks up. Sound great. Nice find on the 45W fiber laser! That's 45W average, I take it? IR? I was toying with the idea of buying one of those 120W Nichia blue laser arrays, but there are so many Chinese fakes out there I couldn't tell them from the real ones.
For my CO2 laser the problem I have is with radiative heat escape, the target actually glows. So I think the sensor needs to be able to dissipate energy as fast as it comes in
Great video! Can you help me, is that matter which side of the peltier attached to the heatsink? Or just the voltage is inverted? Which side do you recommend, colt or hot?
I expect the voltage would be inverted.
how did you power and measure the voltage of the Peltier module at the same time. I'm making a similar setup for my CW laser
If you have a temperature difference on the Peltier junction, it generates a voltage that you can measure. It doesn't matter if the temperature difference is created by the laser beam or the resistive heater wire I glued to the front of the Peltier junction. So I powered the resistive heater (not the Peltier junction) and I measured the resulting voltage on the Peltier junction leads. Hope this helps!
@@JoyeMusiccom does it improve in spreading the heat generated by the laser, because I was thinking of using a copper heat spreader plate and using an adhesive to stick to the Peltier surface
@@JoyeMusiccom Also, what is the power of your laser, mine is 10W, does the Peltier get damaged. I'm thinking of buying the same module you had mentioned in the description.
@@dr.technologist696 Yes, the calibration factor would be a little closer to one if you use a copper or aluminum heat spreader glued to the Peltier surface first. But there will still be reflection to calibrate out, and that's a significant reflection. Also, you need to defocus the laser beam or it will burn the paint!
There are several great articles and build threads on the laser pointer forums about making DIY low-cost laser power meters.
Some of the folks who sell them...act like it’s impossible… And although you might not get perfect accuracy…. It’s much more accurate than some would like you to believe.
The build threads are information rich, and extremely interesting!
They discuss a lot of the important topics like heat spreading and surface finishes of the sensor.
Good luck guys!
Wish there were more DIY laser stuff on TH-cam. If you’re not aware of him… Check out “zenodilodon”, also check out “Marco reps”. Both of whom are two of my favorite laser channels, And do some really great in-depth scientific and optical laser experiments.
I would love to see more laser experiments on TH-cam, especially pertaining to decommissioned laser equipment and optical components.
You can purchase ridiculously powerful lasers from eBay that have been retired out of the industrial, military, and medical fields. I’m talking multiple dozens of watts for pennies on the dollar.
I got a beautiful 45watt (yes 45,000mw) Jenoptik Fiber laser last month for under $100. Truly a golden age for technology stuff on eBay!
Cool, I'll look those two folks up. Sound great. Nice find on the 45W fiber laser! That's 45W average, I take it? IR? I was toying with the idea of buying one of those 120W Nichia blue laser arrays, but there are so many Chinese fakes out there I couldn't tell them from the real ones.
@@laserhobbyist9751 Amen to that. I don't think he was around when I originally made that comment