You can pre or concurrent flash the frame to bring out the shadow detail again when pushing. The added contrast when pushing is simply because the film doesn’t reach its threshold for registered exposure. It’s electrochemical hysteresis. Flashing nudges it over the hump.
Interesting. This is the first I've heard this term. Just to make sure I grok this - pre-flashing would expose the film to some amount of light prior to capturing the final exposure? What's the best way to do that? Double exposure with some diffusion material over the lens to ensure a uniform lighting of the film? And what do people find is a good pre-saturation value? Like, if I push 2 stops, would I want say -4EV?
K. Adam Christensen common wisdom seems to be that it’s easy to underestimate how much is needed and that about -3EV is a good starting point for a two or three stop push. And it really does result in faster film. Failing double exposure on your camera you can preflash the whole roll. Not ideal though since the effect wears off a bit as the halide falls back after a few minutes or hours and you just get more fog. The best approach is really a simultaneous flasher, where you are flashing the film at the same time as you expose it through a 45 degree glass plate. More flexible and creative on all accounts. You have to build it yourself though. ;-) Look up Gerry Turpin and Light Flex for hints.
@@Frisenette well hot damn cannot wait to try this. Thanks! I had a feeling preflashing the roll would have plenty of downside, but I'm super curious about the 45 degree glass. Appreciate the pointers! Cheers
K. Adam Christensen don’t know if you are being sarcastic, I’m leaning to a “no” though. ;-) It’s not that hard to build. Toughest part is finding a suitable light panel.
Hi, thanks for sharing the video. If I want to shoot in low light, and put higher ISO film in my camera than I can set the cameras ISO to, that should over-expose to help in the low light. How do I then develop the film, as per box speed?
Remember that setting a a high ISO setting on the camera means it will give the film less light - but high ISO films can deal with that. If the film box says 400 ISO, but you set the camera to 1600 ISO, then you need to adjust the film development - in this case by +2 stops
The Darkroom UK Ltd I mean, the other way around ISO of camera say has max ISO of 800. But put 3200 in the camera because I know I will be shooting in low light.
I see. The camera will still expose for 800, but using a 3200 negative film in low light... hmm... You may have overexposed negatives but at least you'll get something. It's difficult to guess what the camera will do in very low light, but give it a go.
@@phillnavin1212 If it's C41 col negative, I wouldn't recommend adjusting the development - the film doesn't react well and you get some weird results in terms of colour balance. Better to have a contrasty/grainy looking neg. Just my opinion :)
Wonderful video
Thank you! Perfect explanation 🙏🏻
You can pre or concurrent flash the frame to bring out the shadow detail again when pushing.
The added contrast when pushing is simply because the film doesn’t reach its threshold for registered exposure.
It’s electrochemical hysteresis.
Flashing nudges it over the hump.
Interesting. This is the first I've heard this term. Just to make sure I grok this - pre-flashing would expose the film to some amount of light prior to capturing the final exposure?
What's the best way to do that? Double exposure with some diffusion material over the lens to ensure a uniform lighting of the film? And what do people find is a good pre-saturation value? Like, if I push 2 stops, would I want say -4EV?
K. Adam Christensen common wisdom seems to be that it’s easy to underestimate how much is needed and that about -3EV is a good starting point for a two or three stop push.
And it really does result in faster film.
Failing double exposure on your camera you can preflash the whole roll.
Not ideal though since the effect wears off a bit as the halide falls back after a few minutes or hours and you just get more fog.
The best approach is really a simultaneous flasher, where you are flashing the film at the same time as you expose it through a 45 degree glass plate.
More flexible and creative on all accounts.
You have to build it yourself though. ;-)
Look up Gerry Turpin and Light Flex for hints.
@@Frisenette well hot damn cannot wait to try this. Thanks!
I had a feeling preflashing the roll would have plenty of downside, but I'm super curious about the 45 degree glass. Appreciate the pointers!
Cheers
K. Adam Christensen don’t know if you are being sarcastic, I’m leaning to a “no” though. ;-)
It’s not that hard to build.
Toughest part is finding a suitable light panel.
@@Frisenette haha. Not being sarcastic at all (hope that doesn't sound sarcastic too 😂). Thanks again!
Very interesting!
Thank you for this.
🙏🙏
Thank you
Hi, thanks for sharing the video.
If I want to shoot in low light, and put higher ISO film in my camera than I can set the cameras ISO to, that should over-expose to help in the low light. How do I then develop the film, as per box speed?
Remember that setting a a high ISO setting on the camera means it will give the film less light - but high ISO films can deal with that. If the film box says 400 ISO, but you set the camera to 1600 ISO, then you need to adjust the film development - in this case by +2 stops
The Darkroom UK Ltd I mean, the other way around ISO of camera say has max ISO of 800. But put 3200 in the camera because I know I will be shooting in low light.
I see. The camera will still expose for 800, but using a 3200 negative film in low light... hmm... You may have overexposed negatives but at least you'll get something. It's difficult to guess what the camera will do in very low light, but give it a go.
The Darkroom UK Ltd yea I think I will give it a shot and see what the lab thinks. I know ISO 800 would be too low, so maybe develop -1?
@@phillnavin1212 If it's C41 col negative, I wouldn't recommend adjusting the development - the film doesn't react well and you get some weird results in terms of colour balance. Better to have a contrasty/grainy looking neg. Just my opinion :)