Does your car stink? FRESHEN THAT AIR with our ALL NEW Cherry Unicorn Air Fresheners: mightycarmods.com/collections/accessories/products/copy-of-jdm-cherry-unicorn-air-freshener-3-pack
So, for those keeping track: SuperGramps is done. The Mira is done. The STI is (nearly) done. The SuperTurbo is here and ready to go. The only odd one out now is the Gemini.
I'm actually thinking about unsubscribing from every car youtuber except MCM for the exact reason what you just said. This channel is pure love for affordable cars and mods that the average person can afford.
@@dannyrocket77 Well. The average person probably can't afford to do the Haltech treatment. But even that is achievable. Twinturbo V8 swapping an obliterated Lamborghini, not so much.
Be careful with upgrading the rear sway bar without changing the actual connection mount on the car also getting upgraded. This is not the end link. This is the brackets that mount the sway bar to the chassis. The stock ones can break with a big bar. Fun fact, the anti life kit is actually just a copy of the stock Forester part which had this geometry stock. The main difference is the upgrade to the stiffer bushing. Some also do an offset bushing center in addition to help add caster, which these cars VASTLY lack which forces you to run a high static camber which limits straight line handling and noticeably braking. You can get away with less and less static camber if you add more caster angle. The ALK with an offset bushing can add some. More can be gained with an aftermarket caster adjusting upper shock mount (extremely few do this, like almost none that are actively for sale). This caster increase is a huge part of improving Subaru front end grip and will moderately improve tight corner grip (great for autocross). Another important note about sway bars. Sway bars are springs that are NOT damped. A big sway bar on soft suspension will mean you have a lot of rubberbanding side-to-side. This can often create snap oversteer if you're not careful about which dampers are used paired with a big bar. The car can get far more twitchy and far more sensitive to steering inputs. DON'T read this as "responsive." Read this as twitchy. The only good big sway bar is one that's also paired to moderate low speed damping. With coilovers and moderately upgraded spring/strut packages can offer enough damping for OK control. Better yet you can run a good damper with high low speed damping, but these kinds of dampers can be very rough on normal roads. Damping is NEEDED to control chassis motion. Understand there is a limit to how big you can go with a sway bar without making the car problematic to drive. To go bigger, you need dampers that are aggressive with low speed damping, if you're trying to stay soft in spring rates. Or you up the damper and springs with aftermarket strut/spring combos or coilovers, and then sway bars can follow along in larger sizing and still remain reasonably damped in motion not to cause problems. Final note about the whole damper spring thing. You do not "pick" a random damper setting. The damper follows the spring. There is almost always one, single setting (if adjustable) that is best for a single spring rate. If you want a stiffer setup or to change handling, you change springs, not dampers. You add 25 lbs/in or 50lbs/in to one side AND then follow by adjusting damper rates slightly to match that new spring rate. That's how you tune the suspension. Spring then damper to match, not damper alone, unless you like to create traction and chassis motion problems. This means if you're working with sway bar changes, and if you want to change dampers or damper settings, it's a spring -> damper -> sway process. It's true you can just toss a mild sway on and often improve the handling, but the sway bar can only be a mild change, say up to around 20mm to 21mm max in the case of the Subaru. If you toss a 24mm bar on, you're going to get problems because of the sheer lack of damping in side-to-side motion with that much added spring force.
+1 That comment needs to be pinned. Sway bars can be a huge trap for newbies with stock suspension and most of the time the cars end up handling worse and slower around corners.
Also note the front endlink issue with the WRX/STI isnt so much because of the model but because of the style of control arm... Steel control arms use those first endlinks they had installed, aluminum use the second kind. He also still had factory rear control links and trailing links, they should upgrade those too. The bigger sway bars put a lot of force on the control links and stock bushings. Those bushings being upgraded also don't hurt the NVH.
Just want to make a note that the front links they put on are incorrect for alloy arms. The 1s they installed are made for the steel 1s where they have bracket either side holding the bushing inside the link. Having them installed to alloy ones the bushing will most likely pop out
@@ErebosGR They can help with body roll and subsequently camber change of the tire. Generally stock setups are so soft with high roll that a mild sway bar can increase grip. Usually, you don't need to upgrade both though as the other part of the upgrade is addressing stock understeer. In most cases all you need to do is slightly increase the rear sway bar and you're done. A lot of the understeer is tuned out, and the remaining is likely from the near zero camber on the front of most oem setups. Where you run into big problems, other than adding too much spring to the system without adding any damping is by upgrading one or both to sizes that don't match well and you end up with weird understeer/oversteer and wheel lift issues. You can get strange handling shifts and moderate swings between under and over steer, in addition to the effects of the spring force added and twitchy behavior.
@@stevemartegani Yeah, the endlinks don't mix and match. I was referring to the mounts, if we're talking Whiteline stuff, these: www.rallysportdirect.com/part/sway-bar-mounts/whi-kbr21-24-whiteline-forged-aluminum-sway-bar-mounts-24mm Or www.rallysportdirect.com/part/sway-bar-mounts/per1-psp-sus-201-25-perrin-stout-mounts-sway-bar-mounts-25mm if you're a Perrin fan. (ones I've used) The stock ones break with big bars. Anything over a 21mm or 22mm size bar will likely break the stock mount, so this is often a necessary upgrade.
For those that dont know, dccd is an abbreviation for Driver Controlled Center Differential. Awesome video love the Subaru content! I have whiteline endlinks, strut tower bars front and rear, and their pitch stop mount on my 96 legacy lsi wagon. Big difference over oem stuff from just that.
And that's okay. It's a popular car with its own highlights. But you can't fault the hosts for moving onto things they love. It's a good car. But if it's not "yours" then it's fine to move on. Cars and modifying them is illogical. If they were wed all be driving teslas with 200 tw tires.
Hey guys I'm a single dad from the uk and I suffers with E. U. P. D and every week when I feel a bit down you guys pick me up and put a massive smile on my face every time I can't wait for the next video thank you guys so much for keeping it real and me going your amazing
Blade sway bar adjustment is a flattened piece of spring steel on the end of the sway bar that can be rotated so be stiffer when the blade is oriented vertically, or softer when it's oriented horizontally. It's a way to get an adjustable sway bar by just rotating a single part, no need to swap bars or move end links in different holes. It's more of a quick adjustment for motorsports and isn't necessary on a street car.
This is great. I just finished doing all of this a few weeks ago. Complete Whiteline overhaul on my 97 Impreza. Every single bushing. Did the rear subframe to chassis bushings with STI Group N.
Only recently found your channel when i bought a BRZ a few weeks ago and was searching for mod videos. Have Spent the past 2 weeks binge watching your channel. Love It!
You should mention adding anti-lift will decrease your anti-dive because you change the angle of the side view swing arm so expect the front end to dive more under braking since you didn’t add stiffer springs. Changing the control arm mounting point also changes steering tie rods alignment and can add bump steer which can be minimized by the alignment shop.
Guys... love the channel, love you guys, been following since the driveway days, from a true enthusiast ( WRX's R33 skyline XR6 turbo, VF SS, etc. ) went to the WA drive day, but I have to say one thing... Turbo and temples! I feel this is the reason I started watching you guys, it was about the culture and your personalities. I get the DIY side of things it what started it but in all honestly I don't want to watch you put sway bars on an STI. You guys rocked smashing through Japan ... drinking 1000+ lemon juice and that's the core of our culture. last few videos honestly have been a bit drawn out and more like a "how to guide" not trying to rag on the parade and like i said you guys are the core of the JDM car scene but please go back to the cinematics and the real "feel" of what a snapshot of the scene is, you guys are so good at capturing this. Big love !!!
@@Madaz It's the way to pronounce it! Imagine an Italian says it like Im-Pre-Z-Ah. We're not saying Impretza, the Z has its own syllable... Because Z's are cool... We even call the BRZ the... Brrrrr Z.. Like Breeze cause it looks aerodynamic. The Japanese get English more than other English speaking countries and that's a fact!
Haven’t had a project car in over ten years, but I’ve been watching you guys since the start. Seeing all the whiteline goodness makes me miss my old e21 323i that was stuffed full of whiteline, bilstein and h&r and spending my teen years tweaking it. LS powered e46 is in the works!
Heads up for anyone looking at soldering with the Ryobi iron, from factory they are set to be around 450 degrees C. Great if you're outside or in the wind but if you're inside it will be way too hot, especially on anything detailed like on a circuit board. Good news, really easy to adjust the temperature: Open the unit up and turn the blue and white dial anti-clockwise 1.5 stops. Drops the temp to ~350 deg C.
I live in the states and I've always been a car guy since I was knee high to a grasshopper but I have to thank you guys for getting me into cars from Japan turbo cars and just a whole other section of enjoyment so thanks fellas
@@mightycarmods Thank you so much! The thing is really painful, so to all good people in this comment section: keep your hands clean, a mask at hand and away from other people. After all, somebody needs to be there to chop them Golfs!
Moog looks and acts like an Australian version of a good friend of mine named Al that passed away in a motorcycle accident a few years ago. I think that's one of the reasons I watch this channel so much.
Love the commitment on the toe scene. All that grease on your toe for a 4 second clip to make all of your fans happy 😂😂 this is why we all love MCM! ✌️
As Milwaukee didn't make an M18 soldering iron (only M12) I made one with a KSGER T12 station and some other bits. I also added a power supply output for testing stuff in cars (adjustable power supply). All runs on M18 batteries. Works mint and I love it.
Blade adjustable sway bars, have a thin, wide sway bar link, That is flexible in one plane and very rigid in the other plane, and they swivel between soft and firm and are usually cockpit adjustable.
just felt my heart drop when you let go of that new lambda, for some reason I thought it wasn't attached to the wiring incase they could be a longer or short length to solder on or something and wow literally had that feeling of ohhh shit in my chest love the episodes been watching for years now big up you boys very inspiring
In my 99 2.5rs I was on coilovers and instantly regretted them. They looked and handled good but you would literally break your back daily driving. Rather then going back to stock I went to some used JDM KYB Wrx shocks and struts and for me they have perfect stiffness from the shorter springs. Probably the best mod I've done.
So many smiles and laughs throughout this one. Definitely want to go and throw some bushers on my own STI now. Also, really need that soldering iron. Good stuff.
Funny thing about the STI vs. regular end links. I learned about this by ordering a set of STI end links for a 1990 Subaru Legacy (which is largely parts-compatible with every Impreza and WRX from day 1 to 2007 because LEGO CARS) because they were VASTLY cheaper than the regular ones. They "worked", but flipped over the mounts on the first hard jolt. Up front, though, I'm pretty sure you can use the STI part on a regular car and it'll work fine - just wear out (potentially much) faster. Essentially, the STI ones are two ball joints connected by a stick. The regular ones are two bushings connected by a stick.With the regular hubs, the mounting dingus for the link is offset from the end of the sway, whereas with STI hubs, the two are in line. The balljoints on the STI part kinda-sorta make it so the STI part will physically fit both configurations, but the regular ones, at least the C's in the rear, also serve to limit sway bar travel, which the STI ones can't, so the sway bar can actually flip over the links. Up front, I don't think there's enough suspension travel to actually flip over the links.
Moar handling content please! Alignments, sway bars, corner balances, camber, caster, toes and tires. Stick it in my eyeholes! You already have Turbo Yoda, Mechanical Stig, Tuning Fork. How 'bout a handling guru instead of always saying, "and now we need an alignment." Love you guys. I've watched every episode at least once. G'day from a Canadian in the US!
Its okay Moog, we still love you even though it took you so long to come around and call it an STi. Lol. Love you guys, really shows you are best mates for life. Nothing better than enjoying working on your cars with your best mate and being able to have fun and poke at each other.
I love my koni adjustable strut inserts, originals struts with the right height stiffer springs. I have everything I want it's comfy and handles like it's on rails. I haven't done a white line suspension upgrade yet haven't found the need but identifying old tired suspension components is a must I just chose to go with stock replacements. Love it.
Im confused now...At 15:58 marty solders and heat shrinks the O2 wiring. I was taught and have read service information from vehicle manufactures stating to not do that, since the O2 sensor uses a reference air sample via the wiring.
Go from the STi setup to a Prodrive P1 setup and you have the perfect handling Impreza 2 door. Also the Prodrive Alcon brake upgrade kit is also designed for the GC8 and does not need the massive modding retro fitting Brembos from the later models.
The anti-lift kit was the best mod ever on a sti, then its front n rear sway bars. All other suspensions didnt yield as much performance per price value. Also a tip, add some locking collars to the rear sway bar, as the rear bar tends to shift to 1 side under heavy cornering. This will prematurely wear out the endlinks as it will place a load on the endlinks constantly and also not be vertical at rest.
I replaced all the suspension bushings on my Impreza GG Wagon (Hawk eye), plus the one on the rear diff, the small ones underneath the gearbox and the top mount engine, by somewhat soft polyurethane ones. I was already equipped with same droplinks as in the video. The handling is just amazing, it really fills being on rails! Enjoy the ride Marty! ;)
RCE [Racecomp. Engineering] Tarmac 2's coilover are like driving on a cloud on the road...they are modified KW V3's. They were also great at SCCA Autocross courses.
Nice,i just saw a video from you guys from 9 years ago when you where in japan putting a boost gauge and boost regulator on a suzuki alto 660cc turbo 4wd.Didn't realise how long you guys are making these awesome video's.This is at the beginning of the video,love the 2 door sti nut my money is on the brz.;-)
I had the same gear in my STI at first. You can really dial it in with tire pressure once you get used to the setup and tires. Three psi delta on track worked for me.
I have DCCD on my 2012 STi, it's fun in the winter to goof around with the bias but it's definitely faster on "auto" 99% of the time. A local guy even did some AutoX runs on his 2009 (I think) and proved the same - the idea being a continuously varying setting is better than something a human chooses.
I replaced just about everything rubber underneath my MK5 GTI with Whiteline stuff, and I love the way it drives. That said, even with the “street” offerings, you can never manage to avoid that “jangly change in the cupholder“ NVH when you go full poly.😂
When soldering make sure you're putting the iron on the one side of the copper and the solder on the other that way it heats the copper and its actually the copper melting the solder into it also make sure you tin the iron as well as I'm sure you know ;)
Just quietly, it's worlds easier to do the rear sway bar when the weight of the car is down on the wheels and reversed up on some ramps to give better clearance underneath. I put a GC8 STi sway bar into my old MY99 Forester GT with about 5 minutes of work on my own. Super easy that way, and you're not fighting the end links the whole time.
guys. i'm a mechanic living and working in the UK, it melts my mind when I see how easily those rust free nuts and bolts come apart (post penetration) compared with the rusted out sh*t I have to deal with here daily. I need to emigrate :')
Moog’s facial expressions throughout this episode were cracking me up! Awesome and informative video👍 Sway bars are an upgrade I plan on doing with my gc in the near future
The concise explanation for a swaybar is that it tries to lift the outside tire off the ground in a corner. How it does that is a bit more complicated, but that's what it's doing.
Yeah lol, loved the in between shots of handshakes 😂.... “ Emus live in pairs, or alone, or in groups. They mostly feed at night or during the day..” man that show is hilarious, everyone I show it to.. watch it blankly and I’m on the floor
I am really surprised you guys didn't put in Subframe bolts in the rear while under there. Simple, cheap (under 40 bucks US) and really makes a difference in how the rear end feels in a turn.
I have those whiteline adjustable length "sti" links on my front of my 04 WRX wagon. You're supposed to extend them to match the length of the factory endlinks. Also, whiteline is the best shiz and is actually bolt-on.
"I got some olive on mine" lmao. I made a couple home made margherita pizzas with anchovies last night that were great. I know a lot of people hate on anchovies but if you don't over use them and have some nice fresh sauce, herbs, and veggies to balance out the fishiness and oil they're pretty good. As for cars I "finished" my Turbocharged Ford SHO V6 powered RX8 over the weekend dyno'd in at 400rwhp with room to grow. Suspension was upgraded as well but more in the style of Marty's definitely-an-sti in the vid with it being a road car that can go to the track. I just have to paint it in the booth so the custom hood and bumpers match the body, thinking I'm gonna go with a nice China Blue then wrap it in a satin pearl white wrap for the time being.
![How To Turbo Your Car [IN ONE DAY!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Y-FXt7QAo/mqdefault.jpg)
Does your car stink? FRESHEN THAT AIR with our ALL NEW Cherry Unicorn Air Fresheners: mightycarmods.com/collections/accessories/products/copy-of-jdm-cherry-unicorn-air-freshener-3-pack
Hey guys, love your work!
But why dont you make an e36 328i turbo on e85? Would be a bloody beast!
Best regards Petar!
got a real cheryl smell to it... these will go well, cheers fellas.
Greetings from the Republic of Texas. Y'alls episodes are a breath of fresh air cain't wait for all y'alls freshest content.Keep'em Chopp'n✌
So, the WRX got an STI front end swap, as it looks with the rear item still on it.
yes because i just stinky shat with poo on my seats after eating taco bell ranch spicy taco
Id love to be a feature foot one day in MCM.
first time anyone has said this
😂😂😂😂 🦶 First time I've offered it.
Many foot lovers out there.
@@diann.c Just having a laugh.
@@mightycarmods feels like it would be a patreon type perk
Don’t forget kids: dakdaks are for wizzing. Also helps when you fandoogle.
somebody gets it
@@mightycarmods I don't
is this an australian joke i am to american to understand?
@@farhank8297 the rattle gun is how muricans call it i believe :D
Depends on how many Ugga Dugga's your using ;)
im genuinely impressed they got a foot that high up
I was going to ask who kicks that high
Right?! Someone had to do a handstand or something for that shot...
Moog back in the old days did break dancing as spear time.
Before it happened I said it would be funny to see a foot way up there and wishes come true! Lol. CANADIAN SUPERMAN APPROVES
Who needs an extra pair of hands.....just bring in the grease monkey toe
I burst out laughing on the foot part 😂
I had to fucking go back and see it again lmfao
Gen2ned 11:11
i had a wank when i saw that
Hahahahahahhaha it was hilarious
So did I 😂. My wife looked at me like I was dumb or sth 😁
So, for those keeping track: SuperGramps is done. The Mira is done. The STI is (nearly) done. The SuperTurbo is here and ready to go. The only odd one out now is the Gemini.
don't worry, we see it almost every day and it reminds us it needs a driveline!
The 180sx is still awaiting an episode too right?
The Mini is done as well
180 content please!
when is episode 4 of the uncharted lets play coming out dont be slaking
Love how MCM just so blatantly roast other TH-camrs about how they sell out for views and money... They know how to keep a loyal audience 😂❤️
I'm actually thinking about unsubscribing from every car youtuber except MCM for the exact reason what you just said. This channel is pure love for affordable cars and mods that the average person can afford.
@@dannyrocket77 which is exactly why I've watched them for 10years. They haven't changed their formula but just upped their game in every other way.
@@dannyrocket77 Well. The average person probably can't afford to do the Haltech treatment. But even that is achievable. Twinturbo V8 swapping an obliterated Lamborghini, not so much.
We don’t roast we just want everyone to try their best, don’t be lazy and don’t chase algorithm rubbish.
@@mightycarmods Keeping it real
Be careful with upgrading the rear sway bar without changing the actual connection mount on the car also getting upgraded. This is not the end link. This is the brackets that mount the sway bar to the chassis. The stock ones can break with a big bar.
Fun fact, the anti life kit is actually just a copy of the stock Forester part which had this geometry stock. The main difference is the upgrade to the stiffer bushing. Some also do an offset bushing center in addition to help add caster, which these cars VASTLY lack which forces you to run a high static camber which limits straight line handling and noticeably braking. You can get away with less and less static camber if you add more caster angle. The ALK with an offset bushing can add some. More can be gained with an aftermarket caster adjusting upper shock mount (extremely few do this, like almost none that are actively for sale). This caster increase is a huge part of improving Subaru front end grip and will moderately improve tight corner grip (great for autocross).
Another important note about sway bars. Sway bars are springs that are NOT damped. A big sway bar on soft suspension will mean you have a lot of rubberbanding side-to-side. This can often create snap oversteer if you're not careful about which dampers are used paired with a big bar. The car can get far more twitchy and far more sensitive to steering inputs. DON'T read this as "responsive." Read this as twitchy. The only good big sway bar is one that's also paired to moderate low speed damping. With coilovers and moderately upgraded spring/strut packages can offer enough damping for OK control. Better yet you can run a good damper with high low speed damping, but these kinds of dampers can be very rough on normal roads. Damping is NEEDED to control chassis motion. Understand there is a limit to how big you can go with a sway bar without making the car problematic to drive. To go bigger, you need dampers that are aggressive with low speed damping, if you're trying to stay soft in spring rates. Or you up the damper and springs with aftermarket strut/spring combos or coilovers, and then sway bars can follow along in larger sizing and still remain reasonably damped in motion not to cause problems.
Final note about the whole damper spring thing. You do not "pick" a random damper setting. The damper follows the spring. There is almost always one, single setting (if adjustable) that is best for a single spring rate. If you want a stiffer setup or to change handling, you change springs, not dampers. You add 25 lbs/in or 50lbs/in to one side AND then follow by adjusting damper rates slightly to match that new spring rate. That's how you tune the suspension. Spring then damper to match, not damper alone, unless you like to create traction and chassis motion problems. This means if you're working with sway bar changes, and if you want to change dampers or damper settings, it's a spring -> damper -> sway process. It's true you can just toss a mild sway on and often improve the handling, but the sway bar can only be a mild change, say up to around 20mm to 21mm max in the case of the Subaru. If you toss a 24mm bar on, you're going to get problems because of the sheer lack of damping in side-to-side motion with that much added spring force.
+1
That comment needs to be pinned. Sway bars can be a huge trap for newbies with stock suspension and most of the time the cars end up handling worse and slower around corners.
Also note the front endlink issue with the WRX/STI isnt so much because of the model but because of the style of control arm... Steel control arms use those first endlinks they had installed, aluminum use the second kind.
He also still had factory rear control links and trailing links, they should upgrade those too. The bigger sway bars put a lot of force on the control links and stock bushings. Those bushings being upgraded also don't hurt the NVH.
Just want to make a note that the front links they put on are incorrect for alloy arms. The 1s they installed are made for the steel 1s where they have bracket either side holding the bushing inside the link. Having them installed to alloy ones the bushing will most likely pop out
@@ErebosGR They can help with body roll and subsequently camber change of the tire. Generally stock setups are so soft with high roll that a mild sway bar can increase grip. Usually, you don't need to upgrade both though as the other part of the upgrade is addressing stock understeer. In most cases all you need to do is slightly increase the rear sway bar and you're done. A lot of the understeer is tuned out, and the remaining is likely from the near zero camber on the front of most oem setups.
Where you run into big problems, other than adding too much spring to the system without adding any damping is by upgrading one or both to sizes that don't match well and you end up with weird understeer/oversteer and wheel lift issues. You can get strange handling shifts and moderate swings between under and over steer, in addition to the effects of the spring force added and twitchy behavior.
@@stevemartegani Yeah, the endlinks don't mix and match.
I was referring to the mounts, if we're talking Whiteline stuff, these:
www.rallysportdirect.com/part/sway-bar-mounts/whi-kbr21-24-whiteline-forged-aluminum-sway-bar-mounts-24mm
Or
www.rallysportdirect.com/part/sway-bar-mounts/per1-psp-sus-201-25-perrin-stout-mounts-sway-bar-mounts-25mm
if you're a Perrin fan. (ones I've used)
The stock ones break with big bars. Anything over a 21mm or 22mm size bar will likely break the stock mount, so this is often a necessary upgrade.
14:12 Moogs face when Marty says "three diff holes to choose how stiff u want it to be" HA!
The highest quality content for my poop. Thank you.
I'm dropping off your brother at the pool as I watch as well 😁
Yup, bank deposit made
You sound congested :DDD
I also am at my place of employment..."Boss makes a Dollar, I make a Dime, that's why I poop on company time..."
For those that dont know, dccd is an abbreviation for Driver Controlled Center Differential. Awesome video love the Subaru content! I have whiteline endlinks, strut tower bars front and rear, and their pitch stop mount on my 96 legacy lsi wagon. Big difference over oem stuff from just that.
When Marty is applying the grease to the rear arm spindles!🤣🤣🤣
Marty: "stiff"
Moog: *stares directly into the camera*
Different holes for different stiffness 😏
@@Mardy72 3 different holes to try, just like Cheryl
That killed me lmao
I'm pretty sure @ 14:11 he is blinking Morse code. Who knows Morse code?
@@tmmtmm 🤣
Moog's BRZ is gonna go down the route of the S2000 and disappear into the "it was just a dream"
Same with the Evo 9
And that's okay. It's a popular car with its own highlights. But you can't fault the hosts for moving onto things they love. It's a good car. But if it's not "yours" then it's fine to move on. Cars and modifying them is illogical. If they were wed all be driving teslas with 200 tw tires.
@@steph_on_yt and Evo X
What S2000?
The one Moog owned for a year.
I you haven't seen it, it's worth a look.
Hey guys I'm a single dad from the uk and I suffers with E. U. P. D and every week when I feel a bit down you guys pick me up and put a massive smile on my face every time I can't wait for the next video thank you guys so much for keeping it real and me going your amazing
last time I was this early Rake still says he loves this.
Shit...Lol😂😂 That use to be a thing.
Rake and his dreamy R34.
Those were the days
Blade sway bar adjustment is a flattened piece of spring steel on the end of the sway bar that can be rotated so be stiffer when the blade is oriented vertically, or softer when it's oriented horizontally. It's a way to get an adjustable sway bar by just rotating a single part, no need to swap bars or move end links in different holes. It's more of a quick adjustment for motorsports and isn't necessary on a street car.
best part of this video for me was Moog's Santa Cruz bikes shirt. High elbow my MTB loving Homie!
This is great. I just finished doing all of this a few weeks ago. Complete Whiteline overhaul on my 97 Impreza. Every single bushing. Did the rear subframe to chassis bushings with STI Group N.
11:14 lmfao the foot always gets me!
Only recently found your channel when i bought a BRZ a few weeks ago and was searching for mod videos. Have Spent the past 2 weeks binge watching your channel. Love It!
The last time I was this early the blue turd was still a thing
2012
@@mightycarmods You were installing wind up motors in the doors and looked younger. Yes, we remember.
too soon, dude. too soon
The blue turd will always be a thing!!
Electric space wizard!
No matter what's going on in my life or the world in general, I can always look forward to new MCM videos. Thank you for all the years of content.
love the shot at the WIN THIS RS3 BUY A TICKET FOR $20 facebook ads lmao
Rs3 actually worth it thougb
ndh8 and LLF games
Love that during this I got an ad for that exact kind of thing. The people that end up winning them probably shouldn't be driving them!
Lottery scams are hilarious to me that people buy them
You should mention adding anti-lift will decrease your anti-dive because you change the angle of the side view swing arm so expect the front end to dive more under braking since you didn’t add stiffer springs. Changing the control arm mounting point also changes steering tie rods alignment and can add bump steer which can be minimized by the alignment shop.
13:53 it turns out that the addition of a thicker, stiffer rear swaybar is a minefield of double-entendres.
If you close your eyes, you can almost see them installing coilovers.
Guys... love the channel, love you guys, been following since the driveway days, from a true enthusiast ( WRX's R33 skyline XR6 turbo, VF SS, etc. ) went to the WA drive day, but I have to say one thing... Turbo and temples! I feel this is the reason I started watching you guys, it was about the culture and your personalities. I get the DIY side of things it what started it but in all honestly I don't want to watch you put sway bars on an STI. You guys rocked smashing through Japan ... drinking 1000+ lemon juice and that's the core of our culture. last few videos honestly have been a bit drawn out and more like a "how to guide" not trying to rag on the parade and like i said you guys are the core of the JDM car scene but please go back to the cinematics and the real "feel" of what a snapshot of the scene is, you guys are so good at capturing this. Big love !!!
I hope Moog starts calling it *_“The Impreza”_*
Impretza th-cam.com/video/LJPBBIouuCQ/w-d-xo.html
Blasphemy 😂
@@deanriley3701 totally agree, I don't know where poms get the T from
@@Madaz It's the way to pronounce it! Imagine an Italian says it like Im-Pre-Z-Ah. We're not saying Impretza, the Z has its own syllable... Because Z's are cool...
We even call the BRZ the...
Brrrrr Z..
Like Breeze cause it looks aerodynamic.
The Japanese get English more than other English speaking countries and that's a fact!
Haven’t had a project car in over ten years, but I’ve been watching you guys since the start. Seeing all the whiteline goodness makes me miss my old e21 323i that was stuffed full of whiteline, bilstein and h&r and spending my teen years tweaking it. LS powered e46 is in the works!
Dialing in the suspension: "PAGE UP, PAGE UP, PAGE UP" XD
Heads up for anyone looking at soldering with the Ryobi iron, from factory they are set to be around 450 degrees C. Great if you're outside or in the wind but if you're inside it will be way too hot, especially on anything detailed like on a circuit board.
Good news, really easy to adjust the temperature:
Open the unit up and turn the blue and white dial anti-clockwise 1.5 stops.
Drops the temp to ~350 deg C.
The “H” in NVH is Harshness
It is but I dont know what Moog said!
Really? All this while I thought the "H" stands for horny...
@@BlueXonar Noise, Vibration, Handling!
The H is for Honda
CriticalCurse that’s the effect, not the name. 😜😂
Good work boys. Magic that you actually film the work being done rather than finished product at each stage.
14:06 Moog's face 😂😂
I live in the states and I've always been a car guy since I was knee high to a grasshopper but I have to thank you guys for getting me into cars from Japan turbo cars and just a whole other section of enjoyment so thanks fellas
Thank you for making my 3rd day of Covid infection a lot better. Stay safe!
look after yourself
@@mightycarmods Thank you so much! The thing is really painful, so to all good people in this comment section: keep your hands clean, a mask at hand and away from other people.
After all, somebody needs to be there to chop them Golfs!
I must say i really love the positivity that both Marty and Moog have towards one another and there cars need more people like this
It's unusual for me seeing mighty car mods videos uploaded this late in the evening
For me it's 11pm. Still gonna watch this
Good morning from Trinidad 🤣
It's 420 am for me lol
Midday for me.. usually it’s at some bizarre time.
6:30am central....Pacific? Idk I'm bad at timezones
Moog looks and acts like an Australian version of a good friend of mine named Al that passed away in a motorcycle accident a few years ago. I think that's one of the reasons I watch this channel so much.
Totally different but kinda the same?
Seth's bike hacks reference 😁😁👍
I don't even Subaru but iWire blows me away as an amazing company
4am in Los Angeles and was about to go to sleep. But then, MCM 👍
No one cares where you are or what time it is, knuckle.
Love the commitment on the toe scene. All that grease on your toe for a 4 second clip to make all of your fans happy 😂😂 this is why we all love MCM! ✌️
11:13 took me awhile to realize it was a foot
As Milwaukee didn't make an M18 soldering iron (only M12) I made one with a KSGER T12 station and some other bits. I also added a power supply output for testing stuff in cars (adjustable power supply). All runs on M18 batteries. Works mint and I love it.
12:20 “Poly wants a cracker…?”
I can’t with you guys lmaoooo
Nirvana song lyrics
The good ol MCM banter! When Marty was talking stiffness and all and Moog was just lookin at the camera, i was lol’ing!
loved the final part of the lebanese food i have that like everyday haha
Manoosh everyday?
@@denisjovanovic7781 not everyday haha
I'll bet marty's lebanese mate is 1buck80 :D
rydalmere-bakery-cafe.business.site/
(I used to go to tech production school just up the road so I recognised the area.)
Best one is at the shops behind KFC on the corner of Victoria Rd and Marsden Rd.
Man I miss that place.
iWire is the best! Great products, and more importantly, the patience to walk me through it all. That alone was worth the price.
Moog looked so defeated when he had to admit it's an STI :D
Blade adjustable sway bars, have a thin, wide sway bar link, That is flexible in one plane and very rigid in the other plane, and they swivel between soft and firm and are usually cockpit adjustable.
Is it me, or are we all waiting for work to be done on Marty’s other jdm 2 door icon.....…………… his Gemini!!!!
just felt my heart drop when you let go of that new lambda, for some reason I thought it wasn't attached to the wiring incase they could be a longer or short length to solder on or something and wow literally had that feeling of ohhh shit in my chest
love the episodes been watching for years now big up you boys very inspiring
I fricking lost my shit when I saw you guys eating manoush (Lebanese pizza), made me miss home so much..... the mods were cool as well
huh, thats not even manoush habibi? doesnt manoush have zaatour or some shit?
@@albertkelly7129 different flavours cuz, you can get ones with suzuk on it if you want
@@TheMaroun101 cheers habibi my leb mates been leading me astray only showed me one type lol
In my 99 2.5rs I was on coilovers and instantly regretted them. They looked and handled good but you would literally break your back daily driving. Rather then going back to stock I went to some used JDM KYB Wrx shocks and struts and for me they have perfect stiffness from the shorter springs. Probably the best mod I've done.
So many smiles and laughs throughout this one. Definitely want to go and throw some bushers on my own STI now. Also, really need that soldering iron. Good stuff.
Marty: I've replaced every part of my STi to make it race ready
Moog: Haha BRZ go brrr
Yea except he got a shipment from whiteline as well.
I think I'd watch these guys do just about anything. Thanks for all the great entertainment and music over the years!
2:16 after all these years you're still cutting towards yourself,.. SMH
Cut toward your chum, not toward your thumb.
Could explain the bandaid on his left arm, too. I'd lie about it and say it was a hot exhaust burn.
Funny thing about the STI vs. regular end links. I learned about this by ordering a set of STI end links for a 1990 Subaru Legacy (which is largely parts-compatible with every Impreza and WRX from day 1 to 2007 because LEGO CARS) because they were VASTLY cheaper than the regular ones. They "worked", but flipped over the mounts on the first hard jolt. Up front, though, I'm pretty sure you can use the STI part on a regular car and it'll work fine - just wear out (potentially much) faster.
Essentially, the STI ones are two ball joints connected by a stick. The regular ones are two bushings connected by a stick.With the regular hubs, the mounting dingus for the link is offset from the end of the sway, whereas with STI hubs, the two are in line. The balljoints on the STI part kinda-sorta make it so the STI part will physically fit both configurations, but the regular ones, at least the C's in the rear, also serve to limit sway bar travel, which the STI ones can't, so the sway bar can actually flip over the links. Up front, I don't think there's enough suspension travel to actually flip over the links.
moog: "we will never do click bait titles"
also mcm: ....
us: "hahaha" :|
I went Whiteline everything on my Evo10 MR, huge game changer in going from slight push in the corners to slight oversteer.
Nobody ever: I’m going to make my car like a BRZ.
A Corolla is faster...
14:12 Moog's face, Lmaooo. Also, when Moog blinks it's perfectly in sync with the music.
I thought he was blinking Morse code, but you may be right. Who knows Morse code?
Moar handling content please! Alignments, sway bars, corner balances, camber, caster, toes and tires. Stick it in my eyeholes!
You already have Turbo Yoda, Mechanical Stig, Tuning Fork. How 'bout a handling guru instead of always saying, "and now we need an alignment."
Love you guys. I've watched every episode at least once. G'day from a Canadian in the US!
Its okay Moog, we still love you even though it took you so long to come around and call it an STi. Lol. Love you guys, really shows you are best mates for life. Nothing better than enjoying working on your cars with your best mate and being able to have fun and poke at each other.
I love my koni adjustable strut inserts, originals struts with the right height stiffer springs. I have everything I want it's comfy and handles like it's on rails. I haven't done a white line suspension upgrade yet haven't found the need but identifying old tired suspension components is a must I just chose to go with stock replacements. Love it.
Prefect! What goes well with a spot of lunch.. MCM upload of course. 👌🏻
I went with KW V3 coilovers for my car, on point! I won’t ever go cheap again.
Im confused now...At 15:58 marty solders and heat shrinks the O2 wiring. I was taught and have read service information from vehicle manufactures stating to not do that, since the O2 sensor uses a reference air sample via the wiring.
Go from the STi setup to a Prodrive P1 setup and you have the perfect handling Impreza 2 door. Also the Prodrive Alcon brake upgrade kit is also designed for the GC8 and does not need the massive modding retro fitting Brembos from the later models.
Sweet! Props to IWire! Great group of people. Can't go wrong with Whiteline either.
The anti-lift kit was the best mod ever on a sti, then its front n rear sway bars. All other suspensions didnt yield as much performance per price value. Also a tip, add some locking collars to the rear sway bar, as the rear bar tends to shift to 1 side under heavy cornering. This will prematurely wear out the endlinks as it will place a load on the endlinks constantly and also not be vertical at rest.
I replaced all the suspension bushings on my Impreza GG Wagon (Hawk eye), plus the one on the rear diff, the small ones underneath the gearbox and the top mount engine, by somewhat soft polyurethane ones. I was already equipped with same droplinks as in the video.
The handling is just amazing, it really fills being on rails!
Enjoy the ride Marty! ;)
I winced when he slapped that lovely anodised part against the suspension@ 13:07
The presenter-chemistry between these guys is just awesome
RCE [Racecomp. Engineering] Tarmac 2's coilover are like driving on a cloud on the road...they are modified KW V3's. They were also great at SCCA Autocross courses.
Nice,i just saw a video from you guys from 9 years ago when you where in japan putting a boost gauge and boost regulator on a suzuki alto 660cc turbo 4wd.Didn't realise how long you guys are making these awesome video's.This is at the beginning of the video,love the 2 door sti nut my money is on the brz.;-)
I had the same gear in my STI at first. You can really dial it in with tire pressure once you get used to the setup and tires. Three psi delta on track worked for me.
I have DCCD on my 2012 STi, it's fun in the winter to goof around with the bias but it's definitely faster on "auto" 99% of the time. A local guy even did some AutoX runs on his 2009 (I think) and proved the same - the idea being a continuously varying setting is better than something a human chooses.
I replaced just about everything rubber underneath my MK5 GTI with Whiteline stuff, and I love the way it drives. That said, even with the “street” offerings, you can never manage to avoid that “jangly change in the cupholder“ NVH when you go full poly.😂
When soldering make sure you're putting the iron on the one side of the copper and the solder on the other that way it heats the copper and its actually the copper melting the solder into it also make sure you tin the iron as well as I'm sure you know ;)
12:20 "a good time to inspect your other bushes" ....and moog said nothing... I am disappoint 😂
Just quietly, it's worlds easier to do the rear sway bar when the weight of the car is down on the wheels and reversed up on some ramps to give better clearance underneath. I put a GC8 STi sway bar into my old MY99 Forester GT with about 5 minutes of work on my own. Super easy that way, and you're not fighting the end links the whole time.
The look on Moogs face at 14:14....priceless.
guys. i'm a mechanic living and working in the UK, it melts my mind when I see how easily those rust free nuts and bolts come apart (post penetration) compared with the rusted out sh*t I have to deal with here daily. I need to emigrate :')
MCM.. showing nothing is impossible. Thanks guys
It’s called lahem aajin, staple quick breakfast or lunch in Lebanon.
I put a set of those Whiteline Anti lift kit on my Mk5 gti last weekend. Makes such a difference to the ride.
Moog’s facial expressions throughout this episode were cracking me up! Awesome and informative video👍 Sway bars are an upgrade I plan on doing with my gc in the near future
The concise explanation for a swaybar is that it tries to lift the outside tire off the ground in a corner. How it does that is a bit more complicated, but that's what it's doing.
Love the industrial estate meals when your waiting on work to be done to your car
Kinda crazy how much I’ve learned over the years of mightycarmods. Also crazy how much there is to learn.
Really good timing with this one, this is exactly what I'm working on with my car at the moment.
I’m loving the ‘All Aussie Adventures’ style in-between shots, it’s amazing 😂
Yeah lol, loved the in between shots of handshakes 😂.... “ Emus live in pairs, or alone, or in groups. They mostly feed at night or during the day..” man that show is hilarious, everyone I show it to.. watch it blankly and I’m on the floor
I never could get enough of your content. Keep up the great work...
I am really surprised you guys didn't put in Subframe bolts in the rear while under there. Simple, cheap (under 40 bucks US) and really makes a difference in how the rear end feels in a turn.
I was going to comment about there is no feet clips here but just before I did I saw it :) LOVE IT!
Doin the “Naked Gun” version of “Ghost” while applying the grease. 🤣🤣👍🏼
I have those whiteline adjustable length "sti" links on my front of my 04 WRX wagon. You're supposed to extend them to match the length of the factory endlinks. Also, whiteline is the best shiz and is actually bolt-on.
"I got some olive on mine" lmao. I made a couple home made margherita pizzas with anchovies last night that were great. I know a lot of people hate on anchovies but if you don't over use them and have some nice fresh sauce, herbs, and veggies to balance out the fishiness and oil they're pretty good.
As for cars I "finished" my Turbocharged Ford SHO V6 powered RX8 over the weekend dyno'd in at 400rwhp with room to grow. Suspension was upgraded as well but more in the style of Marty's definitely-an-sti in the vid with it being a road car that can go to the track. I just have to paint it in the booth so the custom hood and bumpers match the body, thinking I'm gonna go with a nice China Blue then wrap it in a satin pearl white wrap for the time being.