Prayers over it all Mr. Richard. Very fine repair sir...well done. In addition to the kit you've shown, mechanics/machinists have drilled a tiny hole(s) between the insert and cylinder and driven a small pin to further lock those threads. JB also has a high temp formula which you are well aware in lieu of the lock-tite....my .02 cents. Another point, I am curious about the extra air intake and the condition of that cylinder, read scoring.. Beautiful time lapse and a job well done sir...
No scoring present, just carbon glazing on the piston. The plating on the cylinder walls is as hard as woodpecker lips. I'll consult with the owner and get him set up with a better plan going forward. Continued use with that gas and oil mix would have certainly caused some damage. The second intake is for fresh air. It adds a "puff" of clean air just before the fuel charge enters, read strato-charge. It helps displace the spent exhaust gasses out of the cylinder and creates a cleaner burn for the next combustion.
@@richardflagg3084 I am referring to the air intake around that loose plug. A loose or faulty compression release can be another source of air leak in a similar fashion. This didn't happen all the sudden. I had a rejected warranty claim the same situation. It was blamed on a senior citizen "straight gassing" the saw. My investigation revealed oil mix in the fuel, oil "pooled" in the crankcase. The seizure was due to a loose spark plug. I am familiar with a stratified unit however...
Roosters' comments are interesting..a new OEM cylinder is $370-$400. A new shortblock $550+ -.. Most Stihl dealership labor in my area is $90-$100 an hour. I would think your repair is justified and reliable..
@@Brian2bears Interestingly, the late model 441's have a steel insert installed at the factory now. I'm no harmonics professor, but I've seen a disproportionate amount of blown out threads on this model.
Do it on the saw! Grease the crap out of the tap! Remove muffler prior to starting. U can put cotton wadding into to cylinder thru the exhaust port. Wet the wadding with WD40. The wadding will capture the flakes of aluminum that don’t get caught by the grease on the tap! Another method is to use shop vac connected to exhaust port and suck the stuff out as you are cutting it!
New piston and cylinder is pretty pricy. This repair took less than an hour and the inserts are about $10. I've had reliable results in the past and feel this was a good option.
Hey Richard, I know this is an older video but I could really use some help. I have a 441 I’m working on with the M-Tronic carb. Since new it’s never idled and would fall in its face once you let off the throttle. I’ve rebuilt the carb, replaced the spark plug, air filter, fuel filter as well as fuel solenoid and it still will not run. It has spark and gets fuel, what else should I look for? Thanks so much!
I would pressure and vacuum test the saw. Coming off throttle creates more vacuum in the case, enough so to lean out the fuel to air ratio and stall. If it passes a pressure/vac test, I'd replace the carb.
Ok, I can try that. Could it possibly be the ignition coil module, sending too much fuel to the carb? The plug seemed excessively wet. I really appreciate the help! Keep up the great videos, I love them.
You have persuaded me to get this done at a repair shop rather than mess it up myself 😊 thanks man.
Pretty slick there 🤙🏽
Nice stand, good fix!
Slick Rick! 👍
Great repair that should last the life of the cylinder👍 so long as they keep the impact wrench away!
Hah!!
Prayers over it all Mr. Richard. Very fine repair sir...well done. In addition to the kit you've shown, mechanics/machinists have drilled a tiny hole(s) between the insert and cylinder and driven a small pin to further lock those threads. JB also has a high temp formula which you are well aware in lieu of the lock-tite....my .02 cents. Another point, I am curious about the extra air intake and the condition of that cylinder, read scoring.. Beautiful time lapse and a job well done sir...
No scoring present, just carbon glazing on the piston. The plating on the cylinder walls is as hard as woodpecker lips. I'll consult with the owner and get him set up with a better plan going forward. Continued use with that gas and oil mix would have certainly caused some damage.
The second intake is for fresh air. It adds a "puff" of clean air just before the fuel charge enters, read strato-charge. It helps displace the spent exhaust gasses out of the cylinder and creates a cleaner burn for the next combustion.
@@richardflagg3084 I am referring to the air intake around that loose plug. A loose or faulty compression release can be another source of air leak in a similar fashion. This didn't happen all the sudden. I had a rejected warranty claim the same situation. It was blamed on a senior citizen "straight gassing" the saw. My investigation revealed oil mix in the fuel, oil "pooled" in the crankcase. The seizure was due to a loose spark plug. I am familiar with a stratified unit however...
Roosters' comments are interesting..a new OEM cylinder is $370-$400. A new shortblock $550+ -.. Most Stihl dealership labor in my area is $90-$100 an hour. I would think your repair is justified and reliable..
@@Brian2bears I'm going to take a wild guess and say that the plug was threaded back into the damaged threads and the plug blew out.
@@Brian2bears Interestingly, the late model 441's have a steel insert installed at the factory now. I'm no harmonics professor, but I've seen a disproportionate amount of blown out threads on this model.
Do it on the saw! Grease the crap out of the tap! Remove muffler prior to starting. U can put cotton wadding into to cylinder thru the exhaust port. Wet the wadding with WD40. The wadding will capture the flakes of aluminum that don’t get caught by the grease on the tap!
Another method is to use shop vac connected to exhaust port and suck the stuff out as you are cutting it!
what size threading tool to use? i have a ms 441 and the spark plug came out two tomes and stripped it out.
Interesting, BUT, given the extent of your labor it seems to me a new jug would be more appropriate for cost/reliability concerns/ No?
New piston and cylinder is pretty pricy. This repair took less than an hour and the inserts are about $10. I've had reliable results in the past and feel this was a good option.
Hey Richard, I know this is an older video but I could really use some help. I have a 441 I’m working on with the M-Tronic carb. Since new it’s never idled and would fall in its face once you let off the throttle. I’ve rebuilt the carb, replaced the spark plug, air filter, fuel filter as well as fuel solenoid and it still will not run. It has spark and gets fuel, what else should I look for? Thanks so much!
I would pressure and vacuum test the saw. Coming off throttle creates more vacuum in the case, enough so to lean out the fuel to air ratio and stall. If it passes a pressure/vac test, I'd replace the carb.
Ok, I can try that. Could it possibly be the ignition coil module, sending too much fuel to the carb? The plug seemed excessively wet. I really appreciate the help! Keep up the great videos, I love them.
Are you in North Carolina or South Carolina?
South Carolina
Why not just put a new jug on it for another 50 bucks and piston if you gotta take it all apart anyway
MS441's are by far my least favorite saw to rebuild. What a cluster. 20lbs of crap in a 5lb bag.
The entire design team got every part they wanted on it.........
@@richardflagg3084 yup. They gave the engineers free reign to build a saw. Must have been old BMW engineers. Lol
You talk too much but don't show