So if i use a lighte Casing with a Tire Noodle, i get a Tire that likes to contact the ground better and has more Safety. But if i would use a stiff DH Casing, i would have the same amount of contact?
I run a maxxis assegai exo+ on the front, and an assegai dh in the rear and the main difference between the two is that the dh casing will be much tougher (but also VERY heavy) and it also tends to hold its shape better. If you want the best of both worlds you could do a lighter casing tire like an exo+ with a foam insert which would cause the tire to hold its shape a bit better (which means it won’t move around underneath you as much and the contact patch stays a bit more consistent) and the whole setup would be lighter than the dh casing tire. Personally I just run the dh tire because I don’t want to deal with the extra step of putting in the foam insert. Hope that helps any?
i can not say enough how rad Fanatik is. They are just as stoked to help you with your new parts as you are getting them. Their wheel builder part of the website just makes you drool over a wheel set. As soon as I can afford a new wheel set for my Trasition Sentinel I will be buying it from Fanatik and you should too. There is no need to buy from anyone else Fanatik has it all, with the fastest shipping, best customer support and the best overall group of people to do business with.
Dang Anthony, high praise!! Thanks for taking the time to write in, and we look forward to helping you out when the time comes! All the best - Dan at Fanatik
Right you are, sorry for the flub. Maxxis does a few things to alter their various casings. With their tougher EXO+ and DD tires they are combining 120 tpi layers with other inserts to toughen things up (or for DD two 120 tpi layers), and then with a full DH casing they use two 60 tpi layers. Thanks for the clarification, and thanks for watching! Dan at Fanatik
Can you go deeper into matching rim width to tire width? It seems that rim manufacturers and tire manufacturers have some conflicts with each other and it's very unclear what the right answer is
There's no such thing as the "right answer," but here's a fine rule of thumb: 2.3-2.5" tires // 26-30mm rims 2.5-2.6" tires // 30-35mm rims 2.6-3" tires // 35-40mm rims If you're close to those ranges, it'll work fine and is not worth stressing about. Typically, people will run either two of the same size tires, or a slightly wider tire in the front, as that is the tire that is doing the turning. Cheers - Dan at Fanatik
For the sake of time and because of minimal availability, I'll not discuss 26" wheels because mountain bikes haven't been made with that size wheel in years. You can however extrapolate the differences going from 29" to 27.5" to get an idea. 27.5" wheels have a larger "attack angle," as it's typically referred to, than 29" wheels. Think of both wheels hitting the same rock; the obstacle will hit the 27.5" wheel higher up the tire where it is more vertical and results in a more jarring sensation as it rolls over the obstacle. A 29" wheel won't have started curving up as much (given we're talking about the same size obstacle) as it hits it, and is less jarring. That's the big one in my mind. There are differences in the shape of the contact patch of the two wheel sizes, even if we're talking the same width/model tire. 29'ers have a longer contact patch, which changes how traction feels. It's not something I think is especially noticeable though. Also, for a given bottom bracket height, your weight sits further below your axles with a 29'er, which affects how cornering feels. I'd say that pros of 29 are that to me it feels faster in a straight line, and less jarring. Pros of 27.5" bikes are that they accelerate more quickly, since it's a smaller diameter wheel, and feel more snappy in corners. They also are more maneuverable in the air. Cons of 29" are that the wheels are going to be weaker, flexier, and heavier, all else equal (again, larger diameter), and slower to accelerate. Shorter people often find that they hit their bums on the back wheel when they put their weight back really far. I'd argue that's more of a technique thing than anything else though. Cons of 27.5" are that they result in a more jarring ride feel and don't seem as fast in a straight line. Hopefully that's helpful. - Dan at Fanatik
So if i use a lighte Casing with a Tire Noodle, i get a Tire that likes to contact the ground better and has more Safety.
But if i would use a stiff DH Casing, i would have the same amount of contact?
I run a maxxis assegai exo+ on the front, and an assegai dh in the rear and the main difference between the two is that the dh casing will be much tougher (but also VERY heavy) and it also tends to hold its shape better. If you want the best of both worlds you could do a lighter casing tire like an exo+ with a foam insert which would cause the tire to hold its shape a bit better (which means it won’t move around underneath you as much and the contact patch stays a bit more consistent) and the whole setup would be lighter than the dh casing tire. Personally I just run the dh tire because I don’t want to deal with the extra step of putting in the foam insert. Hope that helps any?
i can not say enough how rad Fanatik is. They are just as stoked to help you with your new parts as you are getting them. Their wheel builder part of the website just makes you drool over a wheel set. As soon as I can afford a new wheel set for my Trasition Sentinel I will be buying it from Fanatik and you should too. There is no need to buy from anyone else Fanatik has it all, with the fastest shipping, best customer support and the best overall group of people to do business with.
Dang Anthony, high praise!! Thanks for taking the time to write in, and we look forward to helping you out when the time comes!
All the best - Dan at Fanatik
120 TPI = lighter casing. 60 TPI = heavier casing (tougher) Counter intuitive I know. 60 TPI are thicker threads therefore tougher and more puncture resistant.
Right you are, sorry for the flub. Maxxis does a few things to alter their various casings. With their tougher EXO+ and DD tires they are combining 120 tpi layers with other inserts to toughen things up (or for DD two 120 tpi layers), and then with a full DH casing they use two 60 tpi layers.
Thanks for the clarification, and thanks for watching!
Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo Dan, thank you for that! Idnk that. I cant wait until they come out with airless tires!
Can you go deeper into matching rim width to tire width?
It seems that rim manufacturers and tire manufacturers have some conflicts with each other and it's very unclear what the right answer is
I agree, I’ve found that a 2.4-2.5 maxxis tire on a 30-35mm internal rim fits really really well as well as a 2.4 Schwalbe tire on a 30mm internal rim
There's no such thing as the "right answer," but here's a fine rule of thumb:
2.3-2.5" tires // 26-30mm rims
2.5-2.6" tires // 30-35mm rims
2.6-3" tires // 35-40mm rims
If you're close to those ranges, it'll work fine and is not worth stressing about. Typically, people will run either two of the same size tires, or a slightly wider tire in the front, as that is the tire that is doing the turning.
Cheers - Dan at Fanatik
What’s the pro and con of 26” 27.5” and 29” diameter wheels?
For the sake of time and because of minimal availability, I'll not discuss 26" wheels because mountain bikes haven't been made with that size wheel in years. You can however extrapolate the differences going from 29" to 27.5" to get an idea.
27.5" wheels have a larger "attack angle," as it's typically referred to, than 29" wheels. Think of both wheels hitting the same rock; the obstacle will hit the 27.5" wheel higher up the tire where it is more vertical and results in a more jarring sensation as it rolls over the obstacle. A 29" wheel won't have started curving up as much (given we're talking about the same size obstacle) as it hits it, and is less jarring.
That's the big one in my mind. There are differences in the shape of the contact patch of the two wheel sizes, even if we're talking the same width/model tire. 29'ers have a longer contact patch, which changes how traction feels. It's not something I think is especially noticeable though.
Also, for a given bottom bracket height, your weight sits further below your axles with a 29'er, which affects how cornering feels.
I'd say that pros of 29 are that to me it feels faster in a straight line, and less jarring. Pros of 27.5" bikes are that they accelerate more quickly, since it's a smaller diameter wheel, and feel more snappy in corners. They also are more maneuverable in the air.
Cons of 29" are that the wheels are going to be weaker, flexier, and heavier, all else equal (again, larger diameter), and slower to accelerate. Shorter people often find that they hit their bums on the back wheel when they put their weight back really far. I'd argue that's more of a technique thing than anything else though. Cons of 27.5" are that they result in a more jarring ride feel and don't seem as fast in a straight line.
Hopefully that's helpful.
- Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo thank you for the very informative and technical analysis. This will help with my decision making in my next build.
Yes I see ..... $$$$$$$$$ make me happy.
You cut your hair for this video. Nice not. Great series also
Thanks, glad you're finding it useful!
Cheers - Dan at Fanatik
@@FanatikBikeCo whoops I didn’t mean to say not! That sounded super mean.
@@benshapiroisgay Hahah, figured it was a typo