Which climb is your favorite? Did any of Dan's tips surprise you? I think the discussion on when to fall is a really interesting one that doesn't get talked about enough.
Totally agree that people need to learn to fall and know what height they are comfortable at. I see lots of folks scared to fall outside bouldering who then take their first unexpected fall and its scary to watch 😬
Hey made it into the video!! This officially qualifies as the most professional coaching I have ever received 🤔 I guess I’ll be hitting those wrist rows and bicep curls today 😮💨😂 Thank you guys!!
Great tips! Thanks for including information on falling safety! I've measured the impact of bouldering falls and I think for long term health it's important that falling safety becomes a much bigger topic than it currently is.
You reference “wrist rows” a few times, what are these? Are they different from regular rows (I.e. bent over rows with a barbell, inverted rows on rings, etc.)?
I think this was just at the very end with regards to Sleepwalker right? Basically just fast talking combined with video editing. Wrists, rows, etc. I’m not aware of any exercise called a wrist row, and I certainly didn’t mean to reference one. Thanks for clarifying!
Imagine wanting to show hooper your skills and he trash talks your scapula. 😂❤️ Jk I'd be honored. Biggest take away is I need to do more off the wall training. Posterior chain here we go!
There are bolts on top of Black Hat because it's a tall cube. The "easiest" DC is a techy V...3 or 4? I've heard of people DCing the V5 or 6 or whatever it is beside it because it's more straightforward. But yeah there are bolts for the descent.
@@pariahstelar42 Ah, I haven't checked in a long time, I must have misremembered the difficulty. I remember talking to someone about the DC and he said he preferred the harder route to the left(?), but then he was also super strong so a more secure/powerful V5 probably would feel better than a techier V2 as a DC for him even if not so much to us mere mortals.
@@cft103 Ah interesting. To each their own. I've found the downclimb for perfect poser pretty smooth, It wouldn't cause a sweat for a v9 climber, especially if they have the mental fortitude to highball a v9
Pull perpendicular to (“through”) the edge you’re grabbing rather than parallel to (“along”) it. As soon as the angle of your grip becomes less than perpendicular to the edge your ability to generate force on it diminishes accordingly :)
@@HoopersBeta I’m not quite understanding. 4 months into climbing. I think you’re saying instead of trying to go straight up the wall use the angle of the holds fully “perpendicular “ so you get maximum use out of it?
unrelated question, does anyone ever have issues like some sort of resistance when they lift items down off a shelf? My left shoulder feels "Stuck" with soreness / pain whenever I try to lift items down from a shelf or from the upper areas of a refrigerator. I also find pain there when I start bench pressing
@@smarbed3395 there is, but a little hard to clarify in text… 2 common ish mistakes: 1) upward rotation of scaps. First “set” (down), then protract (press forwards) 2) pressing as far as possible forwards, but still sagging in the back. Allows some winging and fails to properly engage serratus. Almost trying to round your back can help cue, assuming scaps are depressed and protracted already. Check some videos, feel it out, if it’s important to you, some in person or video instruction might be advisable.
Which climb is your favorite? Did any of Dan's tips surprise you? I think the discussion on when to fall is a really interesting one that doesn't get talked about enough.
Totally agree that people need to learn to fall and know what height they are comfortable at. I see lots of folks scared to fall outside bouldering who then take their first unexpected fall and its scary to watch 😬
Hey made it into the video!! This officially qualifies as the most professional coaching I have ever received 🤔 I guess I’ll be hitting those wrist rows and bicep curls today 😮💨😂 Thank you guys!!
Looking forward to seeing your Sleepwalker send video! 😁
@@HoopersBeta absolutely, whatever time it takes I’ll come back to this comment and let you know 😉😁
@@jorgecrimpsDid you get it?!?
@@KetchupKidKyle not yet, I’m currently on V13 level 😅 still a few years to go 🫡😂
I've never really thought about the fact that the undercling is mostly like a row, not a bicep curl. Blowing my mind!!!
Right!? So basic but so helpful!
Awesome episode! The bit about keeping the shoulder closed off on your weight bearing arm was 🔥
More of these please! I especially enjoyed the part comparing Red Wave stand to the low start.
Yeah I love the side by sides. We’ll have to do more of that!
Great tips! Thanks for including information on falling safety! I've measured the impact of bouldering falls and I think for long term health it's important that falling safety becomes a much bigger topic than it currently is.
It's definitely a topic that deserves more attention than it currently gets! Would save a LOT of people from nasty injuries.
Cant believe how amazing this video was. great work guys, so insightful
Thank you! Glad it was enjoyable :)
Incredible content. Thank you!
Thank you. Imma go back to the sit with that stuff in mind
You’ll crush it!
Great vid Jason & Emile Always good when you bring Dan to the table to unpack technique. Is Dan a physio?
Thanks Catherine! Dan is not a PT but probably has more anatomy knowledge than most PTs out there 😆
You reference “wrist rows” a few times, what are these? Are they different from regular rows (I.e. bent over rows with a barbell, inverted rows on rings, etc.)?
I think this was just at the very end with regards to Sleepwalker right?
Basically just fast talking combined with video editing. Wrists, rows, etc.
I’m not aware of any exercise called a wrist row, and I certainly didn’t mean to reference one.
Thanks for clarifying!
Yesssss. These tips are so helpful. Thank you 🙏
Awesome video! Would love to see more of this.
More of this please!!
I love the.... always pull through the holds 💯👌
Even though most times i do i always say it to myself and it helps so much 🙏
It’s surprisingly easy to forget when you’re mid-climb! 😄
@@HoopersBeta hahaha very true🤭
@@HoopersBeta i am not a native speaker, would you please elaborate a bit what exactly is meant by "pulling through the hold"? THanks
Imagine wanting to show hooper your skills and he trash talks your scapula. 😂❤️ Jk I'd be honored.
Biggest take away is I need to do more off the wall training. Posterior chain here we go!
😂😂 Scapula trash talking… something only climbers would understand! #respectthescapula
Hey! I didn't know you do this. My whole HUGE (tiny) channel consists of things I should improve... unfortunately, I see a lot of them myself :/
Could you make a video about overhead shoulder mobility for climbers? Thank you! Love the channel
We've done that! th-cam.com/video/ZhyBhad0zRM/w-d-xo.html :)
Thanks coach! Now I can send that thing! 😍
Thanks for submitted the great footage! We could have made an hour-long video just with that :)
There are bolts on top of Black Hat because it's a tall cube. The "easiest" DC is a techy V...3 or 4? I've heard of people DCing the V5 or 6 or whatever it is beside it because it's more straightforward. But yeah there are bolts for the descent.
Downclimb from perfect poser i'd say is at most a v2, upclimb is a v1. Its on the opposite side of black hat
@@pariahstelar42 Ah, I haven't checked in a long time, I must have misremembered the difficulty. I remember talking to someone about the DC and he said he preferred the harder route to the left(?), but then he was also super strong so a more secure/powerful V5 probably would feel better than a techier V2 as a DC for him even if not so much to us mere mortals.
@@cft103 Ah interesting. To each their own. I've found the downclimb for perfect poser pretty smooth, It wouldn't cause a sweat for a v9 climber, especially if they have the mental fortitude to highball a v9
Would love to see the same thing with climbs from Rocklands. Heading there in 3 weeks!
That would be a blast! We’re planning to do at least one episode for all the major climbing spots
Thanks y’all! Appreciate the tip
Thanks for sharing your vids! 😄
What exactly does pull through the hold mean?
Pull perpendicular to (“through”) the edge you’re grabbing rather than parallel to (“along”) it. As soon as the angle of your grip becomes less than perpendicular to the edge your ability to generate force on it diminishes accordingly :)
@@HoopersBeta I’m not quite understanding. 4 months into climbing. I think you’re saying instead of trying to go straight up the wall use the angle of the holds fully “perpendicular “ so you get maximum use out of it?
@@Everheartt He means pull on the holds in the direction they are facing. Don't pull along it on a weird angle because it won't be as strong.
unrelated question, does anyone ever have issues like some sort of resistance when they lift items down off a shelf? My left shoulder feels "Stuck" with soreness / pain whenever I try to lift items down from a shelf or from the upper areas of a refrigerator. I also find pain there when I start bench pressing
Could you do a video on hip labral tears and hip dysplasia (what Sasha Digiulian had)?
A mini series that I really want to do on this channel is analyzing injuries that pros have had and how they recovered. It's on the list! :)
-Emile
Namaste🙏🐥 have a good time😊
The guy on the right screen on Red Wave Low looks like he's just so much shorter than the other guy, comparing the bend in the knees.
It’s the same guy on Red Wave and Red Wave Low :)
@@HoopersBeta ooohhh wow. His feet seem like they're on the same holds though. I don't think I understand what's going on then.
what exactly do you count as a push-up plus? :D
Lots of examples online! Just search "pushup plus." Probably easier to look at those rather than trying to write it out here :)
@@HoopersBeta Thanks anyway, was wondering if there was a specific form
@@smarbed3395 there is, but a little hard to clarify in text…
2 common ish mistakes:
1) upward rotation of scaps. First “set” (down), then protract (press forwards)
2) pressing as far as possible forwards, but still sagging in the back. Allows some winging and fails to properly engage serratus. Almost trying to round your back can help cue, assuming scaps are depressed and protracted already.
Check some videos, feel it out, if it’s important to you, some in person or video instruction might be advisable.
nice
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