Replacing Septic Tank Concrete Baffles with PVC

This video documents the process I went through to replace the original concrete baffles in my septic tank with PVC baffles. I replaced the baffles because the original concrete ones were badly eroded due to age. An inlet baffle and an outlet baffle are required for a septic tank to function properly.
The inlet baffle directs solids downwards and the outlet baffle prevents solids from entering the drainfield and clogging it with debris.
Septic tanks are typically deep so they can be dangerous to work on and to have open. Also, any work done on them must be done properly or else many different issues can arise. This video is intended to be for informational purposes only. This work should be done by certified professionals.

[@tiparamorunga6668]

Thank you for posting up bro, very informative, very helpful.

[@MacMcCabe2456]

Good video. Wish it was narrated. Had trouble reading the fine print on the screen

[@candicebaker2663]

Nice repair.

[@JammyCrackcorn]

Great work ….Excellant Job

[@1justinburger]

My PVC inlet tee is broken and I’m thinking of replacing. Does the inlet T have to be vented? Won’t solids come out the vent instead of going down?

[@frylockthefryman]

Yeah, the top of the inlet baffle is supposed to be open. I think solids coming out of the top of the baffle isn't an issue because the water coming in helps to push it through the bottom of the baffle.

[@dblood8529]

I’d it possible to get a filter for the pvp pipe outlets?

[@frylockthefryman]

Yes, they sell 4" pvc outlet baffles, like the one I installed, but they come with a filter that can be pulled out and washed off. I chose not to install one because my tank has heavy concrete lids that I'd have to remove to clean one. If your tank has manhole covers or plugs, that aren't too difficult to remove, you can definitely install the filter if you'd like.

[@jameswright4777]

do I have to use cement to mate the new baffle to tank? Is there any easier way to do it?

[@frylockthefryman]

You can use mastic instead of mortar. They should supply it at plumbing and hardware stores. Sorry for the late reply.

[@JonathonNeville]

Great annotations. Would it make sense to put down plywood with rope through a hook so you don't need to be so careful about dropping big chunks of concrete? (The chunks would still need to be small enough to pick up with a post hole digger.)

[@frylockthefryman]

Thank you and yes I'd say that putting something under the falling concrete would be a good idea. I should have but thought I'd be able to avoid the large chunks falling.

[@rw6024]

Why not add some hydraulic cement to the deteriorated area??

[@frylockthefryman]

The bottom of the inlet baffle would have still been damaged. I also like the smooth walls of PVC. Less likely to clog than the course surface of concrete I believe.

[@JonathonNeville]

With baffles deteriorated that badly, why is the rest of the tank in good condition?

[@frylockthefryman]

From what I can tell it seems like the flow of water, through the baffles, is what erodes them. The tank walls are slightly eroded, where the water line is, but not like the baffles.

[@Highstranger951]

Sewer gasses eroded the baffle.

[@timgiles9413]

@@Highstranger951 yep, mine is the same way when I had my last clean-out.
The underside of my tank cover is slightly corroded too.
He did a nice repair.
I need to do mine as well.

[@larrylazure4288]

Emery paper would be better

[@ramrod175]

You wonder why they don’t put those in the first place.

[@frylockthefryman]

This tank was installed in the 50's. No PVC back then. I still have cast iron pipes under the concrete slab that I need to replace. Fun!