Nice video again I especially liked your parametric box videos. I always wanted to draw up a maritime radio room clock the one with the green and red quite zones on the clock face. I never could successfully draw up the hinge assembly on the side of the clock case. Hint hint 😉
@@learnitalready you are at this moment one of the smallest F360 channels, but my absolute favorite F360 channel. So I stay here and wait for what is coming. I am SURE that with time, this will be one of the best F360 channels. Just keep going strong, I can already now see it is growing strong, day buy day. Wonder why? hihihi High quality educational content, and VERY well explainen tutorials. What is there not to love.... Well I hate inches - never understood what drunk or muschroom high person, said: Hey guys, forget the metrics, lets make things a bit more complicated, lets use Inches, Feet etc LOL - No harm intended, just Dark Danish humor
@@morgenkaffe Your comments are truly appreciated. We hope to continue to provide good quality education for those that want to improve their Fusion skills. With encouragement like yours, we look forward to what the future may bring. Also, did you notice that the last tutorial was all in metric? 😂 Lastly, interesting fact about Canada and Denmark. I just learned that Canada shares a border with Denmark. Hans Island. Unbelievable! I mean, I don’t know who would want to live on that island, but a good useless fact regardless.
McMaster is great for all of those engineering details and models, but when buying a more affordable option off of, say, Amazon, what’s the best way to figure out the ideal holes to model?
Usually, the specs will be the same. Just compare the thread sizes. Also, if you're unsure, make sure to message the Amazon store that you'd like to buy from and ask them to provide those specs. If they are reputable they will provide that info for you.
So I am designing tool holders which I 3d print. I typically create a component that models the object I want to hold, and then I use it as a cutting tool into the body which I'll actually print. Obviously I need some relief so that it fits, but I am not sure the best way to do it. I could make the first component larger than the real world object, but I don't really like that. What I typically do is cut it into the object, and then use push/pull to add a relief. Would be curious to know if you know a better way to do it. Thanks!
That is definitely a good method to use! Just like was taught in the tutorial, use a “Relief” parameter to easily adjust for the real-life component. I would also start out 3D printing a much smaller set of mating components so that you can see how much relief to set. Once verified, print your entire set of mating components and then adjust again as needed. Great job applying techniques that you’re learning from our channel! Keep up the great work :)
For some reason, the acrylic component disappears as in it cannot be seen even after activating that component, this happens after I insert the heat set fasteners into the main box and also the construction lines created to place the fasteners and their holes are not parametric at all, when the thickness of the wall is increased the lines and position of the holes don't adjust accordingly and holes get tucked away in the main box. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but many of the parts are not parametric. If you can provide solutions for the problems I will much appreciate it. I will also meanwhile try to figure this out by myself. Thanks in advance!
Instead of the rabbet being WallThickness it would be better to create a parameter for AcrilicThickness and use that on your extrudes…. No telling if you can get acrylic in your desires thickness - or your over paying for acrylic on thick walled parts
![[DRIP] ‘Woke Up In Tokyo (RUKA & ASA)’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QN44lcR_VkI/mqdefault.jpg)
Fascinating, and as always greatest F360 channel!
You are too kind to us. Thank you for your support.
Watching this was a terrific watch to start my Saturday. I learned several new tips I can’t wait to incorporate. Thank you
So glad to hear that you benefitted from it. Thanks for taking the time to comment and support us.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for your support!
Nice video again I especially liked your parametric box videos. I always wanted to draw up a maritime radio room clock the one with the green and red quite zones on the clock face. I never could successfully draw up the hinge assembly on the side of the clock case. Hint hint 😉
I’ve got a hinge assembly that’s going to be featured in the shed door tutorial coming up… hopefully next week. 😎
really great and usefull video - thank you so much
Thank you for your encouragement and continued support. Much appreciated.
@@learnitalready you are at this moment one of the smallest F360 channels, but my absolute favorite F360 channel. So I stay here and wait for what is coming. I am SURE that with time, this will be one of the best F360 channels. Just keep going strong, I can already now see it is growing strong, day buy day. Wonder why? hihihi High quality educational content, and VERY well explainen tutorials. What is there not to love.... Well I hate inches - never understood what drunk or muschroom high person, said: Hey guys, forget the metrics, lets make things a bit more complicated, lets use Inches, Feet etc LOL - No harm intended, just Dark Danish humor
@@morgenkaffe Your comments are truly appreciated. We hope to continue to provide good quality education for those that want to improve their Fusion skills. With encouragement like yours, we look forward to what the future may bring.
Also, did you notice that the last tutorial was all in metric? 😂
Lastly, interesting fact about Canada and Denmark. I just learned that Canada shares a border with Denmark. Hans Island. Unbelievable! I mean, I don’t know who would want to live on that island, but a good useless fact regardless.
@@learnitalready Oooh yes and I loved it - Thx a lot
@@morgenkaffe 😎
McMaster is great for all of those engineering details and models, but when buying a more affordable option off of, say, Amazon, what’s the best way to figure out the ideal holes to model?
Usually, the specs will be the same. Just compare the thread sizes. Also, if you're unsure, make sure to message the Amazon store that you'd like to buy from and ask them to provide those specs. If they are reputable they will provide that info for you.
So I am designing tool holders which I 3d print. I typically create a component that models the object I want to hold, and then I use it as a cutting tool into the body which I'll actually print. Obviously I need some relief so that it fits, but I am not sure the best way to do it. I could make the first component larger than the real world object, but I don't really like that. What I typically do is cut it into the object, and then use push/pull to add a relief. Would be curious to know if you know a better way to do it. Thanks!
That is definitely a good method to use! Just like was taught in the tutorial, use a “Relief” parameter to easily adjust for the real-life component. I would also start out 3D printing a much smaller set of mating components so that you can see how much relief to set. Once verified, print your entire set of mating components and then adjust again as needed. Great job applying techniques that you’re learning from our channel! Keep up the great work :)
For some reason, the acrylic component disappears as in it cannot be seen even after activating that component, this happens after I insert the heat set fasteners into the main box and also the construction lines created to place the fasteners and their holes are not parametric at all, when the thickness of the wall is increased the lines and position of the holes don't adjust accordingly and holes get tucked away in the main box. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but many of the parts are not parametric. If you can provide solutions for the problems I will much appreciate it. I will also meanwhile try to figure this out by myself. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for commenting. There could be several reasons as to why. Have you resolved your issue?
Instead of the rabbet being WallThickness it would be better to create a parameter for AcrilicThickness and use that on your extrudes…. No telling if you can get acrylic in your desires thickness - or your over paying for acrylic on thick walled parts
Excellent suggestion! Yes, I fully agree with you.