Horizontal Expansion Setting in Cura
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2020
- Chuck takes a look at Cura 4.6 Slicer and Horizontal Expansion Improvements in this episode of Filament Friday. He test the new Horizontal Expansion for holes only and discovers a few things. He also looks at a few other features new in Cura 4.6. Check it out.
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I was a bit skeptical so I model the exact object in solidworks, saved it with an extreme quality STL, used the same settings in CURA and printed. I got the same results, perfect external dimensions but holes are 0.5mm smaller. I hadn't noticed this problem before. Now we know the fix but I don't know why CURA is producing this error. Could you investigate further why? Thank you for your videos ;)
Giorgio Avato - Thank you for sharing. I’ve pinned this comment to help clarify the issue.
It's quite simple. Your slicer/stl does not create circles, instead it creates a many sided shape with tiny flat sides. The sides of these tiny flat sides protrude over the shape of the circle, making it smaller than the circle size. At least, that's my understanding of it - could be more to it
cnc kitchen did a video bout it
@@yonggor can't find that video
still no G2 from cura
I can't wait for your elephants foot video. I cannot get rid of it and it's always like the first four or five layers for me, not just the first. Thanks for posting helpful info!
When making circles in TinkerCAD you should change the "sides" option to max of 64, which will make it a proper circle. You can see in your design it has made a circle with lots of small straight lines, and this will affect your measurement.
A circle is ALWAYS made of small straight lines in a 3D model!
@@DarthChrisB Yes, but I'm saying you can make it a LOT smoother with a simple change in TinkerCAD. Just info for people that didn't know, it defaults to a circle of very low resolution (20 sides)
64 is not a proper circle either when you get to larger diameters...
@@uwezimmermann5427 I realise that. But like I said, that's the maximum setting in TinkerCAD. Just wanted beginners (TinkerCAD is great for beginners) to be aware that you can change this option.
Comment by Georgia stated he created same design in solidworks with extreme quality stl output and saw the same smaller hole results in Cura. So it’s more than just Tinkercad.
Thanks Chuck for yet another video about 3D printing. I've been watching and learning from your videos for over 6 months now and always pick up something new :D Again thank you for your awesome work!
Thanks Chuck for showing us this great thing. I have been missing this soooo much, and always had to change the model. Great news from Cura. Thanks again.
Thank you very much for this help! I had the problem to get fitting squares for 2040 Aluminum Rails for a Project. With this Video I was able to fix this. One little thing left are the horizintal lines, when 5 mm Holes are printed. In these areas the lines came slightly in- and outside from the Workpiece and needs filing or pressing them away with the Rails. But it also had a little advantage that the Parts came together not too loose. Next thing I will check out the "Elephant foot" in Cura 4.7.x..
Wow, great info and timely too. I've spent hours and hours lately trying to replicate screws and screw holes that are mechanically compatible with real hardware. This explains a lot, going to do some hole test prints now and look for this feature in PrusaSlicer2. Thanks for the great content.
Chep, you are a natural instructor. Love your video's. Greetz from Amsterdam.
Thanks CHEP! That was my big problem, I`m printing parts to my camera so (like a microphone adapter when the exact precise print is essential, and I have to adjust the model in Fusion, and it was a big pain... BUT! You have the right solution for this problem as usual! Thank you so much! (I faced the problem first time on 3rd of May... instant problem solving!!!) Ty
Did the test with my Geeetech A10 (marlin2), and had the same results. Thanks!
Very good! I also loved the tri color cube vid. I used your instructions to capture hex nuts in my prints. Works great! 👍 thank you!
Thank you so much for this! It gives us a way to fix this problem right in the slicer instead of adjusting for it in the model itself. I could have used it when I was first printing prototypes for the current window frame I'm working on. Oh well at least I know it for the next one. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. 💖
thanks for posting your profiles, I will start supporting you buying things from your links
Always great info and tips.
straight to the point no B.S. love the videos! thanks!
OK...I really appreciate all your work. And I learned a lot from your videos.
Thank you so much.
This is exactly the problem I was having. Now I can get back to designing my enclosers for Arduino stuff. Thanks Chuck!
Golden info. You keep crossing my path, Chuck. First YEARS ago when I was working with PBP, and now 3D printing.I knew that name sounded familiar. :)
That goes way back.
Interesting as always 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
thank you Mr.
you are the light for my printing knowledge for a better result🥰👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
GOD BLESSED YOU Sir🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great advice Chep.....as always ! 👍
Great video, Chep, exciting feature.
Thank you so much! Great video as always.
Hard to believe Cura is up to 4.11 now.
Anyway glad I found this. Chuck to the rescue! I designed a battery holder with tight tolerances and it ended up .5mm too small so I am attempting this tonight. I probably should stop the print and size test the footprint but I'll live.
Nice video Chuck, yes these kinds of features are nice to have in slicers.
Thanks a lot for this CHEP! I always have this problem on my printer because I don't have any part cooling. This is really going to help me out. I can't wait for you to cover Elephant Foot.
That's actually fantastic! When you need precision, that's what you want to see! 😃
Thanks a lot, Chuck! Stay safe there! 🖖😊
I've always compensated for this by making the holes .25 bigger in my fusion 360 drawings but this is much better. 👍
How is this better when your entire object/model won't fit with another one?
You have more control doing this in your cad. Avoiding the unwanted changes to other areas of your print.
You the Man Chep! great tips.
I'm fine tuning my Ender 3 Pro to print a NAS enclosure that is going to take about a month of hard work and 3 or 4 kg. of filament. This tuning is just what I needed. Thanks!!!
@@Kalvinjj Reasons? What are those? 🤣
Buying an old case would have made much more sense! But 3D printing one was much more fun. I printed the MK735 case from 3dwebe over at MyMiniFactory and it turned out great. Look for the entry at MMF and you'll see my build alongside others!
It's not a massive case, but it is very sturdy, and can hold 7 full-size HDDs, an ATX PSU and a mini-ITX main board.
Thanks for sharing! I mostly print mechanical type parts and the small hole issue has been a real pain. It's especially annoying for CAD modelers like myself, either you have to later drill the holes to size after printing or compensate for it the model. I'm use to basic CNC machining where accuracy is almost always spot on so I hate having to use compensated hole dimensions when modeling a part for 3d printing. I'm looking forward to trying this feature.
Good video.
My Z axis goes loose after few seconds when I am levelling the bed. I will play around with that "Disarm timeout" to hold it for a bit longer.
Cheers
Since hole diameter is an issue with many printers and slicers, I would still not use this setting in my designs, but rather design my holes with a gap of .25mm to begin with. Since I am almost exclusively use openSCAD for my designs I usually have a parameter "gap" which I set to a value in this range and which I use to make holes just slightly bigger. I don't want my slicer to modify my model in this way - too many other things could break, depending on what the algorithm counts as a hole.
Agreed! Though, sometimes the design you print is not your own. You could use Blender or other software to modify the holes, but it doesn't hurt to examine the slice in Cura before modifying the model.
Great information as always Chuck, thanks much. I appreciate your easy manner of communicating technical info in an easily digestible and understandable way. Also, I just realized a couple of months ago that you live just down the road! Who Knew :^)
Thank you for this excellent video!
Thanks Chuck, super helpful!
i am struggling with this for a week and now i see this video. :)
Thanks Chuck.
You are the real deal! Thank you
Very interesting feature. you might be able to override the issue of the numbers by adding overlay block and setting the expansion there to zero. thank you for testing stuff for us.
Thank you cheap like always a thats a good video, easy and well explained.
Hahaha I watch and love your channel and this video was used as a reference in a 3D printed firearm instruction manual for dialing in some print quality accuracy
Coincidentally I was searching for a fix for horizontal expansion yesterday and you released this just in time. I didn't known it was called elephants foot.
Per the stepper motor issue: you can also insert a g-code command to over-ride this, or if you are using your own customised firmware you can change this default behaviour.
I ran into this when doing two-colour prints, where I would not be keeping a close eye on progress, and the motors dropped out after five minutes. My solution was to change the firmware to stay locked until instructed otherwise (note that powering down always clears this). You can insert starting g-code to achieve the same, on a per-print basis, which I was not aware of at the time.
Check out the M18 and M85 commands in Marlin.
Just for reference: Slic3r / PrusaSlicer has a similar feature - "XY size compensation" (actually that feature was the reason why I switched from Cura to Slic3r a long time ago). And yes, it has the same problems - you don't really want to combine it with text. (and the initial layer horizontal expansion is called elephant foot compensation in PrusaSlicer)
OMG finally! This is going to help me so much
Wow, didn't know that. Great info!
Nice! Learned something new again! Thank you! Wondering how it would affect a "rectangular" hole though...
thank you mister. big congratulations by french
That is a nice new feature.
Just discovered Horizontal Expansion in the last few weeks. Suddenly I'm not drawing up CAD files with numbers I've had to "calibrate" myself! Now I just need to get my Z more accurate.
What a clever feature! I’m trying to love Cura again. For some weird reason, on my Ultimaker 2+ using their default settings for it... I get awful prints. Not so on the Ultimaker S5 and their profile for that! The mystery continues
I really enjoy your videos & knowledge.
Would you happen to know how to filament mix (color mix) in Cura 4.6.1 for Creality CR-X?
I had that issue with pause at height in 4.3 or 4.4, but It's been fixed for me since 4.5.
I like the new feature to Chuck.
Thank you
I always add „M18 S9999“ before the M0 in the gcode. This keeps all motors on for quite some time. On a direct extruder core xy system this also prevents to move the tool head when pushing the extruder lever.
Useful, thanks. Liked and subbed.
I always had big issues with precision... I don't want an nice looking print, I need a really precise print.
Thanks!
Awesome add on im gonna fine tuned my delta printer i got a bunch of parts for a project!
I tried this option on a back cover for my TFT screen as the screw holes were too small. It ended up removing the walls of 3 of the 4 sides of the case, left them with just infill. I'd say it's definitely a beta feature still, but looks promising.
Interesting topic, i wonder how other slicers perform with this hole sizing. When i design something in openscad i actually use an offset just for the holes.
Thank you :)
thanks! hole sizes have always been an issue for me, it would be nice to not need to drill it out.
Looking forward to see the "elephant foot" settings video you make as knowing this would help with both my A8 and Longer LK-1(5).
Same here, I get elephant foot on some prints and can't wait to get rid of them!
if you are trying to make precise small hole, it's simple.
make the hex hole, and after some tweak, you will get it.
this method can also reduce the size of stl file
Glad to know it is cura that makes the holes too small. As i thought it was fusion 360 making my threaded holes too small.
big thanks for this tip ! just a question : this ajustement 's hole size works with horizontal holes. but what about vertical holes? ( making a hole on the x or y axe and not on the z)
I'm working on a different X/Y calibration print that you measure distance between holes instead of measuring the print's outside dimensions. I design a lot of things that screw together so hole location is very important. This does leave the outside dimensions a little oversized though so I'll have to try the horizontal expansion for that as well as the holes to see if I can get holes a bit closer to the right diameter.
I think the commercial focus of 3D printers is on making useless knick nacks. I hope the resin printers and slicers fix this issue. How are you doing 2 years later?
So thats great ( truly ) but what about more complex pieces .. like one with square or rectangular holes and round holes .. and not necessarily on the same plane? Perhaps using a combination of scale and horizontal expansion if we can get all the dimensions to match? Can you do a video on that ?
Cura 4.6 Worked fine for me for what I do but 4.6.1 drew two skirts inside the skirt and messed up the start of the print. Did the same slice in 4.5 cura and it worked just fine. Something to watch out for
I usually get round this by taking at least 0.5mm extra out of the hole in my CAD design, to compensate for this problem. Things then normally fit very snug into it.
I do suffer from elephant's foot though and would love to know how to cure it. If I raise the bed to stop it, I get under extrusion and poor bed adhesion. This sounds like a setting need so I look forward to your future video.
-+-Chep, love your vids, got a question, I make round coins with round cutouts in the middle for insert that i put in there, now if my dia. of coin is 2" and a hole of 1" and print it and the dia. is actual 1.99" dia. and hole is.99" dia I.D. should i use the horizontal setting in cura or just go to my print and increase or decrease model and knowing thats how my printer works and design accordingly to a finished part? I did notice that when u adjusted using this setting it messed up the letters you had on there because they were a close loop .
Where can I download the STL of the 3-hole horizontal-expansion test model shown in the video?
Curious as to why squares would be fine but circles are affected. Weird but cool that you can do that. If you remember to do it when you run into it.
Could you use a support blocker to block out the holes so only they are affected by the setting? (similar to what you did for 100% infill in your video (3 Cura Slicer Setting Tricks For Beginners)
What setting sets the Z hold in Cura? The only relatable option I see is the Disarm timeout. I'm trying to set it so I can change filament without sagging. Thanks Chep!!
Great video man! I always had problems with horizontal expansion for letters, it just distorts them. I don't know how it does on larger characters as i only tested with my maker coin I did and those letters are real tiny. Will have to play around with this and see how it goes. Right now I am at about -.075 on my ender 5 to get holes close to being right but now that I see yours, I might still be WAY off. Waiting on parts for printer so I can't test again till they get here :( Always keep spare stuff on hand, lesson learned ;)
Good to know! Makes me wonder what the technical definition of a hole is according to the new setting - i.e. only applies to circles, ellipses, etc.
Good question
At 3:10 you can see that the holes are not circles but 20-gons or something like that. I wonder if they'd still be so inaccurate if the model would be exported with decent angular resolution. I usually use 1°.
I just want tome measuring tools in cura
do you have the .stl of the one that you've used in this video? thanks!
The hole expansion setting can cause havoc on models with thin (ish) walls... which you kind of covered with the issues on the 0's in your model. Most reliable way is to include tolerance in CAD for these situations in my opinion
In the video, the 2nd print seemed to be less circular (because of segment type streches across arcs around the circle - basically flat spots), but maybe it was my eyes.
Hey Chep! Great videos and love what you do for the community! After watching some of your videos i decided to buy ender 3. And i can tell you its been really hard for me to get the bed leveling just right, its been a pain and wasting almost half a spool (1kg PLA). I downloaded the 3 leveling and test files from your thingiverse (they are awesome). When everything looks good it is always one side that is bad so when i try print multiple pieces at once one of them fails and then carry the fail over to the other parts which are good at that point and destroying everything that is on the bed. So i decided to try and upgrade the firmware to marlin 2.0 so i could do the manual bed leveling and when i connected it with mini usb the whole plug on the ender came loose, snapped of board. Im not sure where im going with this but it just looks like you get them perfect and for me it feels like black magic at this point. I just want to print all day and not worry so much.
Replace it with a silent board. Print one thing at a time to get familiar with it. If it’s uneven on one side try this: th-cam.com/video/8qLJyaBlCCA/w-d-xo.html
In short, if you want to have the best experience get a BL Touch and an SKR Mini E3. The SKR Mini E3 is a drop in silent replacement for the original board and has the ports for a BL Touch and doesn't need a breakout board. The BL Touch allows you to just get the bed close to level then it does the rest. AKA no more fiddly bed leveling crap. Since I installed mine I got it close then it mesh levels every print.
after scaling a part of wing for rc plane the outer skin cant be printed it just prints the inside but before scaling it is all good, any ideas?
Can I copy the start and end G-code from Cura 4.5 onto Cura 4.6.1. Also, do your profiles work with Curea 4.6.1? Thanks great video.
Dog gone it! I have been using 4.6.1 for a couple of weeks. I had a case with holes, that I burned a couple of hours in OpenSCAD to “bore out” the holes to the right size! I wished I read the release notes of features first! Thanks for sharing.
so this setting will have to be adjusted with each different filaments types? I've notice my petg prints and as accurate as my pla on the Yaxis direction.
Hi, I had the problem with multicolor printing and the Z-axis (other axes too) not holding position. Tried it with the new setting in the pause at height script and that has fixed the positioning issue. One thing I noticed is that the extrusion motor is also blocked, I had to feed the filament manually and force the old color PLA out. I'm using the Ender 3 PRO. I have not taken the time to review the GCODE yet.
Tried to replace the M18 command in the GCODE with M18 X Y Z S1800, that did nothing... I saw a lot of other option in GCODE but most not supported by Marlin (On which Ender firmware is based if I'm correct).
Would be neat if, like the selective areas for supports in your other video via plugins, the main holes of the object is selected for expansion while leaving the numbers alone.
whats the regular horizontal expansion do you mentioned it but didnt explain??????? also my elephants foot wont go away with initial horizontal ex
So do we wait for a bug fix, or wait for Chep to update his MAGIC numbers? You do a true man's work Chep!
Bug fix for?
@@FilamentFriday for inaccurate holes
Not sure it’s a bug. Other slicers do it as well. The fix is the horizontal setting for now.
It will be great if there is a way to measure the size in slicer before printing.
Hello is there a way to put a brim on tree support?
A simple fix: you could change the zeros to be like in the army type fonts, which are meant to be without holes, optimized for making spray paint writings ;-)
THAT was very helpful!
Thanks!
Hi Chuck, I'm having issues printing PETG on my ender 3. It's been suggested that I print a temp tower. Can you point me to where I can learn how to setup the gcode?
Why do holes look segmented on print even they are not in slicer? Could this be a reason for smaller measures? Does this problem apears with square holes?
Decided to try this, apparently it doesn't work on square holes :( Should re-check my esteps though.
I also wonder if using Arc Welder plugin for Cura will change the issue with round holes being too small as it creates arcs instead of line segments. So far I can tell it makes smaller gcode files where circles are involved, almost two times smaller for my file with 4 buttons (for sewing) in it.
Does this only work on round holes?