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You should try it with just an old fashioned AVR and CD player and see how they sound. Nothing extra , no extra DAC no EQ just the basics like most people would have
You missed the point of the review, you need a good upstream to make these speakers work well, in other words don’t buy these if you have an AVR and budget CD player.
Good lesson in synergy! Years ago I passed up a couple of great deals on Klipsch La Scala’s because the seller auditioned them with cheap receivers in terrible rooms. Once I listened to a pair with good quality equipment I was sold!
They're very revealing. I have a decent Yamaha amp with tone controls and a subwoofer added. Ive heard things through these speakers that I've never heard before and that's always fun!
I love B&W! I have a pair of 683 S1 I love them. I have upgraded my amp a few times and they have grown with every new amp. Rn it's hooked up to an NAD c389 really amazing! My local hifi store has a lot of b&w and I often come down to listen and I have never been disappointed
The B&W 600 series speakers have been a great “budget” speaker. In my experience,and as you have shown, if they don’t sound good, check the source before assuming the speakers are at fault. I bought a pair of 601 S2 speakers 22 years ago and they are still in daily use. They were $427 new which would be $743 today. The current equivalent speakers are the 607 S3 which are $900 list. The price has outpaced inflation a bit but is still reasonable. I’m planning on upgrading to the new 600 series next year and retiring my 601 S2’s. They’ll still be used but not as daily drivers.
@@jamesrobinson9176 they are not made on England anymore now made in China I believe. Buy a old pair. My old ones sound good but lack mids somewhat. I haven't heard the new ones but I've read they don't sound quite as good as the old ones
@@mattm2684 The ones I spoke of that had a big midrange suckout and too hot tweeter all had a minimalist 1st order crossover too, which is usually not a good thing. However, some designers are fixated on them, even though they present many problems that you don't see in even 2nd order filters. But, they do cost less 'cause there's fewer parts. A good compromise is a 2nd order filter on woofer and tweeter, which uses an inductor and capacitor on both the woofer and tweeter and has a 12db per octave rolloff. 1st order crossovers will only an inductor on the woofer and a capacitor on the tweeter, and will have only 6db per octave rolloff, which creates more overlap between drivers, which can lead to phase and other issues.
Not a fan of B&W, that being said people should check also their cables, many audiophiles have Audioquest cables (interconnects or speaker), AQ cables are not friend of revealing speakers, if you have brightness issues try some regular copper inexpensive cables that will make the sound less bright, trust me
One thing I've never understood is the passivity many audiophiles seem to have regarding tone controls. I got an earlier version of these in a sale, found them way too bright (especially when listening to a digital source), so I turned the treble down slightly and voila, they sounded perfect. Yes, blame B&W if you like for over-accentuating the top end, but it's not like there's nothing you can do about it! They're your speakers, after all. Something else interesting, after about a year I found that the B&Ws settled down (or perhaps my ears did) and the treble didn't need to be adjusted so much. I've never known other speakers change quite so much in character with use, or, alternatively, take quite so long to "break in".
I've had 606s2, 706s2, 606s2, and now 702s2 Bowers. HT and audiophile applications. They all have a break in period. I now have my 702s2 pair in a 2.2 music arrangement. Wouldn't have anything else handle my music
Obviously they are used to auditioning audio under closer to 'ideal' situations where signal purity can be replicated, but doesn't always account for less than ideal room acoustics, or in my case, less than perfect hearing where I actually usually need to boost the treble for clarity, so I pretty much always need to boost levels too. Also, some music is just recorded less than perfectly!
I've had the 606s2 for about 4 years. A lot of people hated them as harsh tweeter made the ears bleed. I initially didn't care for them either. I finally decided to give them no tow in and the harshness smoothed out. That fact and a lot of hours of playing they actually sound pretty darned good.
I picked up a new pair of 606 s2 anniversary editions for $405 and I've thoroughly enjoyed them. I knew of B&Ws reputation for being hot in the high frequencies and that's why I sought them out. I'm pushing 70yrs old and my high frequency hearing is diminishing, so the B&Ws are a perfect match for me...allowing me to hear the highs like I could, years ago. Nice bass & mid-range too.
Drop the Audioquest cables, speaker or interconnects, and put some regular inexpensive copper ones. This will bring the brightness down for anyone having too much brightness issues that happen to have AQ cables installed, trust me
I heard some 606’s a few years ago before buying some ProAc Tablette 10’s. They shrieked at me through most gear. I did get to hear them sound ok, never great, through an Audiolab system. The Tabs are better in every way and sound great with any gear. They are very well made and look good.
I have ordered a pair after having auditioned some at a hifi store in my city. I really love the open top-end, although I understand that it's not everyone's cup of tea. My current speakers are great, but lack that 'sparkle'. System matching is important though, so hope they play well with my home set-up. The store have them playing through both the Audiolab 7000A (spectacular IMO) and the NAD c3050 (not bad, but no where near the 'body' of the Audiolab). I don't want to keep spending, but... that Audiolab.. sigh. EDIT: they arrived and I have been loving them. I have the black and I think the finish is very good, personally - I've had speakers in real wood veneers, but I'd trade them for the better sound any day!
Suggestion for a test track, dire straits "you and your friend". Had never heard it till a few months ago, but it seems to be on almost every hi fi play list I've come across on spotify or amazon. It had sounds coming from places where a speaker wasn't even close. The different guitars come through clear as day, and the way you can hear the little finger tube thingy sliding across the strings. The imaging for a song that old is next level.
Had Bowers and Wilkins for years and you are spot on, put crap in and it will punish your ears. Currently have 704s2 powered by a Rotel power amp. I use a my iPad as my primary source wired into a chord Mojo 2 and it sounds really good.
I use to mix on a pair of Bowers & Wilkins in the late 90s into the mid 00s. The Matrix 805s and I used them simply because they were what 90% of the engineers I grew up listening too in the ealry 90s were using for all those amazing records like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, The Breeders, Candlebox and many of the big Nashville acts like Tracy Byrd (watermelon Crawl) and engineers like Justin Niebank were using. Everyone back then had 3 sets of speakers a big pair they only used when clients came in that were loud but we never mixed on them (we had JBLs) the B&W speakers and the god awful Yamaha NS10 yet I preferred the 3-way Yamaha 6490 to the NS10. But like most engineers I moved to powered studio monitors Genelec 1031A's in the mid 00s and I still use them. But I went to a studio the other day and they had a pair of 7 inch B&Ws and I fogot how good those actually were. I wish they made a powered speaker but oh well... I have been looking and I'm seriously considering a new pair of B&Ws for my studio.
I picked up a pair of early 90's B&W dm 620's awhile back for the purpose of putting together an all British system. When I went to audition these speakers they sounded absolutely terrible. It sounded like both tone controls were set at -6. I figured that for $100 for the pair it was worth the risk. I took them home and hooked them up to a Cambridge amp and Rotel cd player. Well the sound coming out of these speakers now is absolutely fabulous! So I concur that you need high quality amp and source to get the most out of this brand of speakers.
It has been a hundred years since i had a b& w speaker- 602 s2, and what i remember is that they were revealing of sources, even with their own colored interpretation. I loved them, but was rewarded when applying a better source- a rotel cd player.
i have a sa7800 vintage amplifier hooked up to a pair of B&W DM601S1, it sounds so good. Detailed sound with good bass is present to me too, it can shake my wooden ceiling . Detailed mids and highs, i just liked it so far.
That is a really good review. The upper tilt you hear on the B&Ws is why they appear to image so well for a speaker that size and price. The speaker is meticulously designed. B&W knows how to make a small speaker sound big. For cheap you can make a huge improvement. Take the speakers to a technician and have the tech change the sand cast resistors on the crossover for the tweeters to milled resistors of the stock values. That change makes any six series B&W first class.
... I would start with the caps , start with tweeter , than resistors , leave the inductors as is . Than replace crossover wires for quality all pure copper in Teflon . After all set try to add quality copper foil bypass like Miflex 0.1uf to tweeter , it will add lot of space and better imaging . Have fun 😉
I feel like a redesigned crossover would do more lol . Not sure why people hate ceramic case resistors; there's hardly any change when with the tiny amount of inductance, and you can get non inductive ones too.
@@kdomster9141 I agree except I think a redesign of the crossover is advantageous. All of the issues that people have with -pretty much any- B&W is from their signature crossover design. A design that turns the tweeter response into pyramid shape and used the yellow driver nearly as a full range driver, which lets it bring it's built in peaks around 1khz, 4-6k hz and in this ones case another at 8k hz or so, into it's final response in unhelpful ways. I used a bigger inductor on the mid and tweeter and now the 2 drivers play their own regions cleanly where the stock crossover rides the tweeter over the top of the mid for a long time and to negative result. Mundorf aluminum and oil caps with a miflex .1 uf bypass cap, better resistors and an air core inductor for the bass driver and my old 603 s3s are amazing compared to stock.
@@bayard1332 I agree , but for someone not knowing or willing to go extra mile just swapping a stock El cheapo MKP cap for quality one will yield much cleaner tweeter output, bypass with warmer Miflex 0.1uf will further tame brightness of B&W Alu tweeter . Mills resistors would also sound round and warm that can also benefit rather aggressive tweeter
Recently I switched from a gen3 apple TV to a Wiim Mini (Used your affiliate link, thank you!) and noticed a drastic difference when using the Wiim's app versus the native amazon music app. Airplay would never exceed 24/44.1 regardless of the track quality, frustrating when you're subscribing for hi-res. The Wiim app streams full resolution, but it will take me a little while to get used to the UI/UX and I do miss the credits and lyrics provided in Amazon. At the same time I upgraded my Aiyima DAC-A2 to the SMSL SU1, and let me say I'm a DAC believer now. Had I continued to use the A2, I doubt I would have noticed the difference between Airplay and Wiim. For reference I'm currently running B&W 606 S2 Anniversary on a Marantz model 1060, I love this setup. Thanks for the reviews, Randy!
Glad you were able to resolve the elephant in the room for these speakers. I'm now wondering how much of a sound change I'll get for my own speakers in altering my current streaming / DAC sources.
I'm also curious about whether it's worth upgrading from Diamond 12.2's, which I would characterize as a totally issue free, easy listening, speaker for music and movies.
@@NsteveAyou'd probably be better picking Wharfedale Evo if you already like the diamonds. Though I feel the Evo will be very slightly on the warmer side. B&W is a whole different sound; maybe try to EQ the diamonds to the frequency response of b&W
I have 606 s2 they sound ok with marantz slim line AVR. I was not so thrilled as expectation was high, now I have connected to arcam avr 11 it is different altogether with Dirac room correction. Using Amazon music which not higher resolution via Apple TV it sounds very good. Garbage input will alway put garbage output. Good content will sound very good. I have large room with cathedral ceiling and it still sounds good. It will much punch in small room.
What you described regarding the top end is exactly what I experienced with my B&W's before break in. They need a good 80 hours before they come to life. I've had mine for 2 years and they just sound better and better. I have a NAD receiver as preamp and use Rotel 980 power amp. Sublime
Bowers legendary break in period. You're sitting there enduring this and all of a sudden beautiful music appears. I have 702s2's and they had a break in period. Worth it though
It's interesting that you had trouble with Airplay. I always thought Airplay was terrible. I have a nice sounding Denon AV receiver, but streaming from Roon using Airplay always sounded awful, whereas using an external streamer, even a chromecast dongle, was far better. I don't know if it is the compression Airplay uses, but it's always sounded bad to me. Glad it's not just me.
Yes, the compression Apple uses is tailored to sound best with earbuds and those USB speakers the size of a stuffed toy (95%+ of their users I'd wager). Putting their stuff through a real speaker/amp setup is almost as bad as playing rock music over AM radio. Yes, years ago we had one station where I lived that was cheap and did that, so I unfortunately remember. lol.
HiFi World magazine (UK) had a great tip for taming bright speakers like this Bowers & Wilkins model. They suggested wiring your amp to the woofer terminals, then use the included jumper to connect the two minus terminals but then substitute for the jumper a 2 ohm resistor (5 watts or greater) when connecting the positive terminals. Feel free to try different resistor ohm values. Fancy audiophile resistors are worthwhile but hardly necessary. Cheap, easy, adjustable, reversible, won’t void your warranty, and you can’t break anything.
Just bear in mind that when you add a resistor, that increases the impedance of the tweeter, which lowers the crossover frequency for the tweeter, so there will be more overlap between drivers, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on the design. In many B&Ws, which have a big midrange suckout and too hot tweeter, that will improve the sound all the way around, as it will fill in the mids and reduce the too hot treble.
@@DougMen1 Seems to me the added resistor would increase the impedance of the tweeter (and change the crossover frequency) only if the resistor is placed after the tweeter crossover components right at the tweeter’s terminal inside the enclosure. A resistor placed at the system’s input before the crossover would only cause the amplifier to see a higher impedance of the tweeter section and result in less power input to the tweeter crossover, which, of course, is the goal here.
i have the B W CM6S2 with the decoupled tweeter on top . To this day they are powerful very clear with very good bass .Clarity is amazing as long as your giving them a good source .If you can find them used buy them . I paid over 2k with stands many years ago New .Im sure now they are far cheaper.
Good stuff, makes me miss my first pair of “audiophile” speakers, the old entry level b&w 602s with the gold tweeter, definitely sad I let those go 😢, thanks Randy!
Here’s a TIP for anyone having too much brightness issues with their speakers, if you happen to have Audioquest cables (speaker or interconnects), drop them! and use regular inexpensive copper ones, that will take the speaker and sound fuller/warmer. From my 10 year audiophile experience Audioquest (and maybe other hi end brands) are not friend of revealing speakers, the combination may end in too much brightness
B&Ws are hard to beat. I've owned a pair of Matrix 803s2 for a quarter of a century now, and they sound amazing to this day. They are driven by a custom-made dual mono 250 Wpc power amp of the same vintage.
Thanks a bunch Randy! Speaker position seems important. My front speakers sound like voices are coming through center channel or TV. No center channel speaker installed. Finally a little audio success on my relatively cheap stuff
This comment is not about your current video. It is about your recommendation of the Aiyima A08 Pro. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I bought this amp last week off Amazon for less than $80 to use with my desktop computer and Jamo Speakers. This is by fair the best “cheap” set up I have ever owned/heard. These comments are coming from a guy who has far to much expensive audio equipment (a system in just about every room). I truly appreciate your recommendation. Spot on!
Information coupled with entertainment, as always! On a different note, this might be an interesting comparison: Edifier S360DB (a $500 powered 2.1 with planar tweeter, 4 inch aluminum mid-driver and a wireless 8 inch ported sub) vs a similarly priced 2.1 made-up of passive bookshelf, amp and sub. For many, $500 is probably a reasonable budget. If the Edifier's able to hold its own, it could be an easy recommendation for those seeking a simpler setup.
I find B&Ws speakers particularly the 600 series to be bright and boomy. I returned mine and bought the Focal Aria 926 instead and boy it sounds way more better and pleasing to my ears. It has smooth and natural sounding midrange. Sonorous highs without being harsh and shrilling. Tight and punchy bass that is not overpowering. In short, excellent tonal accuracy.
I've had the 606 abd and older model 703 B & W models. 606 anniversary was just too bright for me. 703s were ok but a bit of a disappointment. A set of Focals at a discounted price of $999 impressed me at the store. A bit bright but not too bright with a great soundstage. Seemed more musical and warmer compared to the 606s driven by the same components. Didn't buy them and now the price is nearly double so will have to wait. Better looking speakers too.
@@memcdm Yes you described it very well with the Focal speakers. It’s a perfect middle ground. Not too bright, not too boomy and not too warm. I used a mains power conditioner with mine and it greatly improves the sound stage. It’s more taller and wider now but with similar sound signature.
I'm not sure what they were paired with but I have these with my Anthem 225 and it couldn't have better separation. Remarkable soundstage height and width. Just great. But as with ALL resolving speakers.....garbage in, etc. etc.
Great review Randy. I would like to hear more about this airplay delima. You referenced a Darko video? Cant seem to find it. Can you provide a link? Thanks
I always wonder about that too with these "giveaways". If someone will clickbait, they might not be above baiting their hook with fantasy without substance. I 've seen this kind of thing on other channels and on this one before. TH-cam should check up on these guys occasionally and make them produce proof they sent someone something, with the date sent of utmost importance. Fudging something once you are called out on it, is what I think they would try. Using a friend or relative to deceive. Not saying this happened; but it's a good bet it has happened before on TH-cam.
That makes a lot of different devices in where the signal are switching and travelling. Of course it sounded bad. I've tested these but with a cd player and a turntable, in a receiver and in a combo pre-amp/power, and they sounded like for my taste.
When you first listen to a new speaker don’t use a streaming source. Why not just use a high quality CD player with a high quality preamp and amplifier? The fewer pieces of electronics that you have in the audio chain the better everything sounds. It’s an old fashioned theory that actually works. After the first listen then use a goofy streaming source. But minimize the equipment in the playback chain. Each piece of gear adds noise and distortion of different types. You may not agree with this but it’s reality and that’s all it is.
My go-to for years was an old (vintage) Pioneer amp with a CD player attached to it. The brick would go down to 4 ohms, so the problem was never the speaker - lol. But I get it - he's trying to replicate the experience us "cheap audio" people are likely to experience. But, yes, so many things in a chain, with so many little chips all waiting to have a headache with something else.
The problem with B&W is that they are really high end speakers and need to be matched with high end components- I guarantee you the "problems" with the sound you mentioned can be resolved with better quality/matched electronics.
All of the issues people have with B&W speakers, and I'm talking almost all of them because they all use the same design choice, is from the crossover. They choose to use the yellow driver as a nearly full range driver and ride the tweeter on top of it to give it a bit of sharpness/clarity. This is very problematic, it uses the mid driver up into 3 zones where the driver has a response peak and those peaks correspond exactly to the frequencies that bug people and to the lumpy and spiky over-all frequency response. It turns the tweeter into a spike. It's kinda crazy because the tweeter is actually pretty nice and plays dead flat from like 1k hz to 20k hz... So bin the crap binding post for tube connectors and re design the crossover and you can have a radically better speaker than you started with. Yes, it does change away from the signature B&W sound that comes from those (bad) design choices, you will no longer feel the tweeter is too much or harsh etc and you won't have the long overlap of the drivers making those frequencies variable depending on the location of your ears.
@cheapaudioman - Thanks for these. Two questions. I still own my pair of ELAC UB52’s primarily because of what I read about them and TH-cam reviews like yours on them. Three years later, how do you feel they hold up? Also, I’ve them paired up with an ELAC S10.2 sub and a Marantz SR5013 140W/channel @ 6 ohms. I play locally stored lossless ALAC files via WiFi & AirPlay 2 hosted on my MacBook Pro. So I get CD quality “lossless” playback. You mention your application of AirPlay was bad here in this video. Can you recommend a way to get better playback of the lossless files on my MacBook with my AVR? Thanks, bud.
You can't use cheap audio amps or poor recordings with Bowers. They actually used to be worse. They have smoothed them out a little the last few releases. It's all about clarity and details. Bad sources are shrill...
I got the Px8 around a month back. And omfg these are the best headphones I have tried. After comparing against QC45, they are not even in the same league. I know that's not saying much. I haven't compared to other brands like AudioTechnica or Sony (I don't like Sennheiser at all) but Px8 will crush them all imo. The only other headphones which can beat the Px8 would be Focal headphones. Although they are quite expensive, and at that price I would definitely get B&W loudspeaker set. B&W speakers and tech reproduce sound faithfully imho.
Is BW 606 S3 sounds good with WIIM Amp? I am now connecting WIIM Amp with KEF 50 which is almost 10 years old, the combination is pretty bad, I don't know what's wrong, I think it's similar to what you've said at the beginning, feeling want to send them back. :)
Hi Randy . Another great interesting video, how do you compare these over the 606s2 annerversary, I have still have dm602s3 with my Rotel A11 tribune , also sounds petty good but I prefer my old b&W speakers . Regards mark
I have the Rotel A11 Tribute and I am running it through the old 600 bookshelves. I like it, but I will be upgrading to these new S3's... The bookshelves will go in my office with the A10 and turntable. I love that A11!
@@geographyinaction7814 hi, I also have dm600 s3 they are on my Hitachi ax-m140 system and sound pretty good, I recently bought 606 s2 anniversary although they sound good I still have my old dm 602 s3 , as you know on the A11 you have 2 sets of speaker outputs so I can still enjoy my old and new sound . I think the new A10 is great but won’t be replacing my A11 as new mk2 don’t have a b speakers and no pre output for your sub . Good luck with your new system it’s going to sound great . Regards mark
I tried a bunch of speakers. Really disliked them all except the b&w… which I totally loved. I’ve got a WiiM amp at the moment. I think that’ll be an upgrade path for me in the future.
Got me a wiim pro plus on Amazon day, seems decent. Bluetooth is kinda weak, no surprise. Anyone know what bit rates it can output digitally? Pretty sure one of y'all youtubers ia getting an affiliate kickback 😊
it ranks high in this product category, especially since it costs around €1,800 in Europe, and in this product category, this is actually the best choice, because all the other brands that say at least this way are significantly more expensive
I'd buy these speakers before any other speaker you've +ever reviewed. The only exception might be the Tektons. I would definitely bi-amp them to dial in the woofer to the tweeter to my liking. I'd still high pass them at 100 hz and send the lows to my quad 15" woofers.
Just wondering if the grilles fall off incredibly easily and frustratingly like the 607 and 606 S2s do? With both of those models, all you have to do is breathe on them a bit too heavily and the grilles drop right off. Annoying.
Bowers and Wilkins are generally on the cool side, but they are very transparent, I think what your hearing is rubbish in rubbish out. Note to self when testing higher priced speakers, make sure the rest of your test rig is up to it !!. Some Speakers will make rubbish sound okay, but really good speakers will tell it how it is and that's not always a bad thing.
I think rubbish in rubbish out is such an old terminology but if it makes people think they sound intelligent & knowledgeable then let them wallow in it. I personally think hifi critics can sound full of b s & obnoxious. Just enjoy music on a reasonably priced system without all the twaddle. If it is crap then you wouldn't buy it, that's why I listen to them before I buy after expert views from the likes of hifi magazines that have been around the block for many years before I decide on purchases. Hifi is in most of my families blood, I have a very successful dj in law that supports top chart bands at his gigs & another brother that was so obsessed with my system in the early 80's he baby sat for free while the wife & I had nights out, he eventually has such a collection of music running into hundreds of thousands with a personally hand built vinyl deck. Having hifi is infectious. Fun, relaxing, entertaining, obsessive, mesmerising, compulsive & costly if it gets out of hand. But you only live once. Oh I do own Bowers & Wilkins I bought them for the reason tens of thousand others have, because they are up in the top when it comes to speaker design & innovative tech.
@@ENGLISHISBEST Nothing wrong with reasonably priced anything, just best not to put with a highly resolving pair of 2 grand speakers and wonder why it sounds crap. Its not obnoxious just factual. Put a mini gear box in a porsch, it will pull away from the lights like a mini. I have a budget system in a spare room and its fab, because it's comparitviely priced. Put an expensive anything through something cheap and 99% of the time your getting the best out of it. As for Bowers and Wilkins I do not live far from them and have done the factory tour, personally I prefer the Dali house sound Bowers. Having hi Fi blood sounds obnoxious to me, but remember we are all entiltled to an opinion.
I seen these on sale on Amazon during prime days for $599 but stayed away. All the reviews sounded like these had horrible top end. Holding out for the Revel Concerta2 M16 to go on sale in black.
I had the B&W CM6 S2, now about at same price point, but originally a step above at >$2K/pair. The mid range was horribly mushed compared to my new Pearlacoustics Sibelius SG (higher price league) on a Rotel RA1572 (B&W and Rotel have same parent company, so should be tuned to one another) back then, with direct source input. Was happy to get rid of them. I think with B&W you pay a lot for the name, but not a lot of quality. I would look elsewhere. The B&W CM6 SII were my first serious speaker, so I paid for my mistake and lack of experience. Putting better electronics on the Sibelius (PrimaLuna Evo 300 pre, PassLabs XA25 power, solid sources) improved sound even further.
I thought it was a really fun speaker. I wouldn't mind having a pair to rotate in every now and again. Probably wouldn't be my forever speaker but they can be fun with the right tracks and the right front end.
I still own the cm6s2 and i drive em with an LFD LE3 amp. No mushed up midrange at all. Huge soundstage, staggering transients, transparency & dynamics & with a super extended airy & sweet treble. Even after listening to some super duper setups, i don’t feel short changed when listening to my cheap cm6s2. When i listened to the cm6s2 at the showroom, they sounded really meh. Brought them home & i got a huge WOW! I pair them with a REL T7i sub & what a blast!
I say that all the time abt jazz & acoustic, especially if it's an older recording bfore the 80's. Alot of the newer overly compressed stuff with alot of sibilance would probably sound best on a more neutral speaker.
Many heavy metal recordings are terrible, best way to gauge heavier , or heavy instrumental music go with a well produced , great music production Progressive Rock albums , Rush, Dream Theater , Aryeon albums are usually produced well . Grunge music is Terrible for any test listening runs .
Is this the same issue with the 606 S2? They were being sold on ebay for under $400 for a white pair. There were a bunch of bad reviews here so I didn’t pull the trigger.
All B&W 600 speakers have had a midrange dip and tipped up tweeter, but the 600S3 series in the early 2000s were the last ones that had a mild mid dip and treble rise that was listenable. All the subsequent 600 series since then, until now, had that huge midrange suckout and way too hot tweeter, which only accentuated the midrange suckout, and they all sounded terrible, totally unlistenable. This is the first 600 series since those 600S3 series in the early 2000s that toned it down again, and don't have a too huge midrange suckout and way too hot tweeter, and are now finally more listenable again, with the tamer balance that they had back in the day. But, if a record or CD is mixed with hot treble, these are still going to maybe accentuate it too much, compared to more balanced speakers.
Got the original 606 a couple of years ago for half off (like 450$). It sounds like the new tweeter's too bright. I don't have that lack of detail/overly bright issues on the original and the S2 HTM6. Not sure if you do this, but maybe try the older generations? See what you think in comparison.
Perhaps using a lower cost DAC would do a better job of demonstrating the kind of results that most users can expect with the more affordable gear in their systems. Its good to have your reference gear to see just how good something can sound when paired with it, but using more affordable gear for reviews helps us common folk form reasonable expectations. Lol Keep grinding CAM!
These remind me of the old Tannoy Revolution bookshelf speakers from about 20 years ago. Solid, and about as good as you can expect for something this small. That said, no, they are not even as good as my old JBLs from the 90s. But then again, large bookshelf speakers the size of a PA speaker /mini fridge haven't been a popular option for a while. TL;DR: As good as these are, they are not a similar priced 8 inch speaker if you have the space, because mass generally wins in the end.
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You should try it with just an old fashioned AVR and CD player and see how they sound. Nothing extra , no extra DAC no EQ just the basics like most people would have
Most people with $1100 B&W speakers don’t have a CD player and a cheap AVR. And if they do, why?
You missed the point of the review, you need a good upstream to make these speakers work well, in other words don’t buy these if you have an AVR and budget CD player.
Good lesson in synergy! Years ago I passed up a couple of great deals on Klipsch La Scala’s because the seller auditioned them with cheap receivers in terrible rooms. Once I listened to a pair with good quality equipment I was sold!
@@tylerhackman6832I have a Rotel cd player. Sounds great.
@@tylerhackman6832 who said cheap AVR? Mine were in the 1500 dollar range and would power those speakers easily
They're very revealing. I have a decent Yamaha amp with tone controls and a subwoofer added. Ive heard things through these speakers that I've never heard before and that's always fun!
I love B&W! I have a pair of 683 S1 I love them. I have upgraded my amp a few times and they have grown with every new amp. Rn it's hooked up to an NAD c389 really amazing! My local hifi store has a lot of b&w and I often come down to listen and I have never been disappointed
Thanks!
Thank you so much!!!
The B&W 600 series speakers have been a great “budget” speaker. In my experience,and as you have shown, if they don’t sound good, check the source before assuming the speakers are at fault.
I bought a pair of 601 S2 speakers 22 years ago and they are still in daily use. They were $427 new which would be $743 today. The current equivalent speakers are the 607 S3 which are $900 list. The price has outpaced inflation a bit but is still reasonable.
I’m planning on upgrading to the new 600 series next year and retiring my 601 S2’s. They’ll still be used but not as daily drivers.
Totally. Got an ancient pair of 601 S2 and they are amazing. You can pick them up as used in the UK for next to nothing
I'm stuck wondering if they're made in the same factory as the old ones. What's the extra $ gone towards?
@@jamesrobinson9176 they are not made on England anymore now made in China I believe. Buy a old pair. My old ones sound good but lack mids somewhat. I haven't heard the new ones but I've read they don't sound quite as good as the old ones
@@mattm2684 The ones I spoke of that had a big midrange suckout and too hot tweeter all had a minimalist 1st order crossover too, which is usually not a good thing. However, some designers are fixated on them, even though they present many problems that you don't see in even 2nd order filters. But, they do cost less 'cause there's fewer parts. A good compromise is a 2nd order filter on woofer and tweeter, which uses an inductor and capacitor on both the woofer and tweeter and has a 12db per octave rolloff. 1st order crossovers will only an inductor on the woofer and a capacitor on the tweeter, and will have only 6db per octave rolloff, which creates more overlap between drivers, which can lead to phase and other issues.
Not a fan of B&W, that being said people should check also their cables, many audiophiles have Audioquest cables (interconnects or speaker), AQ cables are not friend of revealing speakers, if you have brightness issues try some regular copper inexpensive cables that will make the sound less bright, trust me
And that's why the proper way to debut speakers is with the same reference setup and physical media every time.😅
One thing I've never understood is the passivity many audiophiles seem to have regarding tone controls. I got an earlier version of these in a sale, found them way too bright (especially when listening to a digital source), so I turned the treble down slightly and voila, they sounded perfect. Yes, blame B&W if you like for over-accentuating the top end, but it's not like there's nothing you can do about it! They're your speakers, after all.
Something else interesting, after about a year I found that the B&Ws settled down (or perhaps my ears did) and the treble didn't need to be adjusted so much. I've never known other speakers change quite so much in character with use, or, alternatively, take quite so long to "break in".
I've had 606s2, 706s2, 606s2, and now 702s2 Bowers. HT and audiophile applications. They all have a break in period. I now have my 702s2 pair in a 2.2 music arrangement. Wouldn't have anything else handle my music
+1 for tone controls, a must for me. Especially if you want to listen at different volume levels
Obviously they are used to auditioning audio under closer to 'ideal' situations where signal purity can be replicated, but doesn't always account for less than ideal room acoustics, or in my case, less than perfect hearing where I actually usually need to boost the treble for clarity, so I pretty much always need to boost levels too. Also, some music is just recorded less than perfectly!
I've had the 606s2 for about 4 years. A lot of people hated them as harsh tweeter made the ears bleed. I initially didn't care for them either. I finally decided to give them no tow in and the harshness smoothed out. That fact and a lot of hours of playing they actually sound pretty darned good.
A few dealers have remaining brand new stock at £349 ( about 440 USD)
End of line now Were £699 in UK. Many bad reviews on the tweeter
I picked up a new pair of 606 s2 anniversary editions for $405 and I've thoroughly enjoyed them.
I knew of B&Ws reputation for being hot in the high frequencies and that's why I sought them out. I'm pushing 70yrs old and my high frequency hearing is diminishing, so the B&Ws are a perfect match for me...allowing me to hear the highs like I could, years ago.
Nice bass & mid-range too.
Drop the Audioquest cables, speaker or interconnects, and put some regular inexpensive copper ones. This will bring the brightness down for anyone having too much brightness issues that happen to have AQ cables installed, trust me
Awesome analysis, Randy. Your description of the sound at freqs was great. Love the new interlude music.
Glad you liked it!
Congats on 200k!
I am glad you have reviewed these b&w speakers which I always considered to buy. very helpful. thanks
Great review. Love the detail,and comparisons. Keep it up.
Awesome review Randy. Always love your perspectives.
I appreciate that!
I heard some 606’s a few years ago before buying some ProAc Tablette 10’s. They shrieked at me through most gear. I did get to hear them sound ok, never great, through an Audiolab system. The Tabs are better in every way and sound great with any gear. They are very well made and look good.
Thanks CAM, fun review! 🙃
I have ordered a pair after having auditioned some at a hifi store in my city. I really love the open top-end, although I understand that it's not everyone's cup of tea. My current speakers are great, but lack that 'sparkle'. System matching is important though, so hope they play well with my home set-up. The store have them playing through both the Audiolab 7000A (spectacular IMO) and the NAD c3050 (not bad, but no where near the 'body' of the Audiolab). I don't want to keep spending, but... that Audiolab.. sigh. EDIT: they arrived and I have been loving them. I have the black and I think the finish is very good, personally - I've had speakers in real wood veneers, but I'd trade them for the better sound any day!
Suggestion for a test track, dire straits "you and your friend". Had never heard it till a few months ago, but it seems to be on almost every hi fi play list I've come across on spotify or amazon. It had sounds coming from places where a speaker wasn't even close. The different guitars come through clear as day, and the way you can hear the little finger tube thingy sliding across the strings. The imaging for a song that old is next level.
Had Bowers and Wilkins for years and you are spot on, put crap in and it will punish your ears.
Currently have 704s2 powered by a Rotel power amp.
I use a my iPad as my primary source wired into a chord Mojo 2 and it sounds really good.
I have the 606s3 in combi with the Marantz cinema 70s for two weeks without a sub. Just awesome 💪🏼
Please do not forget to mention which amplifier you have used while testing.
I use to mix on a pair of Bowers & Wilkins in the late 90s into the mid 00s. The Matrix 805s and I used them simply because they were what 90% of the engineers I grew up listening too in the ealry 90s were using for all those amazing records like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, The Breeders, Candlebox and many of the big Nashville acts like Tracy Byrd (watermelon Crawl) and engineers like Justin Niebank were using. Everyone back then had 3 sets of speakers a big pair they only used when clients came in that were loud but we never mixed on them (we had JBLs) the B&W speakers and the god awful Yamaha NS10 yet I preferred the 3-way Yamaha 6490 to the NS10. But like most engineers I moved to powered studio monitors Genelec 1031A's in the mid 00s and I still use them. But I went to a studio the other day and they had a pair of 7 inch B&Ws and I fogot how good those actually were. I wish they made a powered speaker but oh well... I have been looking and I'm seriously considering a new pair of B&Ws for my studio.
I picked up a pair of early 90's B&W dm 620's awhile back for the purpose of putting together an all British system. When I went to audition these speakers they sounded absolutely terrible. It sounded like both tone controls were set at -6. I figured that for $100 for the pair it was worth the risk. I took them home and hooked them up to a Cambridge amp and Rotel cd player. Well the sound coming out of these speakers now is absolutely fabulous! So I concur that you need high quality amp and source to get the most out of this brand of speakers.
200K??!!! Let’s go!!!
It has been a hundred years since i had a b& w speaker- 602 s2, and what i remember is that they were revealing of sources, even with their own colored interpretation. I loved them, but was rewarded when applying a better source- a rotel cd player.
i have a sa7800 vintage amplifier hooked up to a pair of B&W DM601S1, it sounds so good.
Detailed sound with good bass is present to me too, it can shake my wooden ceiling .
Detailed mids and highs, i just liked it so far.
That is a really good review. The upper tilt you hear on the B&Ws is why they appear to image so well for a speaker that size and price. The speaker is meticulously designed. B&W knows how to make a small speaker sound big. For cheap you can make a huge improvement. Take the speakers to a technician and have the tech change the sand cast resistors on the crossover for the tweeters to milled resistors of the stock values. That change makes any six series B&W first class.
... I would start with the caps , start with tweeter , than resistors , leave the inductors as is .
Than replace crossover wires for quality all pure copper in Teflon .
After all set try to add quality copper foil bypass like Miflex 0.1uf to tweeter , it will add lot of space and better imaging . Have fun 😉
I feel like a redesigned crossover would do more lol .
Not sure why people hate ceramic case resistors; there's hardly any change when with the tiny amount of inductance, and you can get non inductive ones too.
@@kdomster9141 I agree except I think a redesign of the crossover is advantageous. All of the issues that people have with -pretty much any- B&W is from their signature crossover design. A design that turns the tweeter response into pyramid shape and used the yellow driver nearly as a full range driver, which lets it bring it's built in peaks around 1khz, 4-6k hz and in this ones case another at 8k hz or so, into it's final response in unhelpful ways. I used a bigger inductor on the mid and tweeter and now the 2 drivers play their own regions cleanly where the stock crossover rides the tweeter over the top of the mid for a long time and to negative result. Mundorf aluminum and oil caps with a miflex .1 uf bypass cap, better resistors and an air core inductor for the bass driver and my old 603 s3s are amazing compared to stock.
@@bayard1332 I agree , but for someone not knowing or willing to go extra mile just swapping a stock El cheapo MKP cap for quality one will yield much cleaner tweeter output, bypass with warmer Miflex 0.1uf will further tame brightness of B&W Alu tweeter .
Mills resistors would also sound round and warm that can also benefit rather aggressive tweeter
Great to see you try out this speaker!
Recently I switched from a gen3 apple TV to a Wiim Mini (Used your affiliate link, thank you!) and noticed a drastic difference when using the Wiim's app versus the native amazon music app. Airplay would never exceed 24/44.1 regardless of the track quality, frustrating when you're subscribing for hi-res. The Wiim app streams full resolution, but it will take me a little while to get used to the UI/UX and I do miss the credits and lyrics provided in Amazon.
At the same time I upgraded my Aiyima DAC-A2 to the SMSL SU1, and let me say I'm a DAC believer now. Had I continued to use the A2, I doubt I would have noticed the difference between Airplay and Wiim. For reference I'm currently running B&W 606 S2 Anniversary on a Marantz model 1060, I love this setup.
Thanks for the reviews, Randy!
Would Marantz M1 be a good pairing for them?
Glad you were able to resolve the elephant in the room for these speakers. I'm now wondering how much of a sound change I'll get for my own speakers in altering my current streaming / DAC sources.
I'd be really curious: does a speaker like this compare at all with something like a Wharfedale Diamond 12.2, which is way cheaper?
I'm also curious about whether it's worth upgrading from Diamond 12.2's, which I would characterize as a totally issue free, easy listening, speaker for music and movies.
@@NsteveAyou'd probably be better picking Wharfedale Evo if you already like the diamonds. Though I feel the Evo will be very slightly on the warmer side.
B&W is a whole different sound; maybe try to EQ the diamonds to the frequency response of b&W
I have 606 s2 they sound ok with marantz slim line AVR. I was not so thrilled as expectation was high, now I have connected to arcam avr 11 it is different altogether with Dirac room correction. Using Amazon music which not higher resolution via Apple TV it sounds very good.
Garbage input will alway put garbage output. Good content will sound very good. I have large room with cathedral ceiling and it still sounds good. It will much punch in small room.
What you described regarding the top end is exactly what I experienced with my B&W's before break in. They need a good 80 hours before they come to life. I've had mine for 2 years and they just sound better and better. I have a NAD receiver as preamp and use Rotel 980 power amp. Sublime
Same. Mine are still going strong from 2002 but took ages to break in. Prolly 3 days
Mine are bi amped with arcam alphas from the 90's . Biwire is 99% snake oil but bi amp is useful
Bowers legendary break in period. You're sitting there enduring this and all of a sudden beautiful music appears. I have 702s2's and they had a break in period. Worth it though
It's interesting that you had trouble with Airplay. I always thought Airplay was terrible. I have a nice sounding Denon AV receiver, but streaming from Roon using Airplay always sounded awful, whereas using an external streamer, even a chromecast dongle, was far better. I don't know if it is the compression Airplay uses, but it's always sounded bad to me. Glad it's not just me.
Yes, the compression Apple uses is tailored to sound best with earbuds and those USB speakers the size of a stuffed toy (95%+ of their users I'd wager). Putting their stuff through a real speaker/amp setup is almost as bad as playing rock music over AM radio. Yes, years ago we had one station where I lived that was cheap and did that, so I unfortunately remember. lol.
HiFi World magazine (UK) had a great tip for taming bright speakers like this Bowers & Wilkins model. They suggested wiring your amp to the woofer terminals, then use the included jumper to connect the two minus terminals but then substitute for the jumper a 2 ohm resistor (5 watts or greater) when connecting the positive terminals. Feel free to try different resistor ohm values. Fancy audiophile resistors are worthwhile but hardly necessary. Cheap, easy, adjustable, reversible, won’t void your warranty, and you can’t break anything.
Just bear in mind that when you add a resistor, that increases the impedance of the tweeter, which lowers the crossover frequency for the tweeter, so there will be more overlap between drivers, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on the design. In many B&Ws, which have a big midrange suckout and too hot tweeter, that will improve the sound all the way around, as it will fill in the mids and reduce the too hot treble.
@@DougMen1 Thanks for your thoughtful addition 👍
@@DougMen1 Seems to me the added resistor would increase the impedance of the tweeter (and change the crossover frequency) only if the resistor is placed after the tweeter crossover components right at the tweeter’s terminal inside the enclosure. A resistor placed at the system’s input before the crossover would only cause the amplifier to see a higher impedance of the tweeter section and result in less power input to the tweeter crossover, which, of course, is the goal here.
I loved old B&W speakers a lot
The ones using paper cones
Then they switched to kevlar and i can't say if it was a great change
Huge B&W fan here from Grapevine thanks buddy for the review.
What up, brother! Been a while
Same old same ol, i still use my 804 D3's from B&W and a full set of their out door speakers too, @@cheapaudioman
i have the B W CM6S2 with the decoupled tweeter on top . To this day they are powerful very clear with very good bass .Clarity is amazing as long as your giving them a good source .If you can find them used buy them . I paid over 2k with stands many years ago New .Im sure now they are far cheaper.
Hi! Would YOU buy these or the ELAC UBR62? I need help with decision, quickly!
Well, it's a good thing you didn't send them back! Excellent review, Randy! 🙋♂️✌️🙋♂️
Good stuff, makes me miss my first pair of “audiophile” speakers, the old entry level b&w 602s with the gold tweeter, definitely sad I let those go 😢, thanks Randy!
Here’s a TIP for anyone having too much brightness issues with their speakers, if you happen to have Audioquest cables (speaker or interconnects), drop them! and use regular inexpensive copper ones, that will take the speaker and sound fuller/warmer. From my 10 year audiophile experience Audioquest (and maybe other hi end brands) are not friend of revealing speakers, the combination may end in too much brightness
B&Ws are hard to beat. I've owned a pair of Matrix 803s2 for a quarter of a century now, and they sound amazing to this day. They are driven by a custom-made dual mono 250 Wpc power amp of the same vintage.
Thanks a bunch Randy! Speaker position seems important. My front speakers sound like voices are coming through center channel or TV. No center channel speaker installed. Finally a little audio success on my relatively cheap stuff
This comment is not about your current video. It is about your recommendation of the Aiyima A08 Pro. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I bought this amp last week off Amazon for less than $80 to use with my desktop computer and Jamo Speakers. This is by fair the best “cheap” set up I have ever owned/heard. These comments are coming from a guy who has far to much expensive audio equipment (a system in just about every room).
I truly appreciate your recommendation. Spot on!
Information coupled with entertainment, as always!
On a different note, this might be an interesting comparison: Edifier S360DB (a $500 powered 2.1 with planar tweeter, 4 inch aluminum mid-driver and a wireless 8 inch ported sub) vs a similarly priced 2.1 made-up of passive bookshelf, amp and sub. For many, $500 is probably a reasonable budget. If the Edifier's able to hold its own, it could be an easy recommendation for those seeking a simpler setup.
I find B&Ws speakers particularly the 600 series to be bright and boomy. I returned mine and bought the Focal Aria 926 instead and boy it sounds way more better and pleasing to my ears. It has smooth and natural sounding midrange. Sonorous highs without being harsh and shrilling. Tight and punchy bass that is not overpowering. In short, excellent tonal accuracy.
I've had the 606 abd and older model 703 B & W models. 606 anniversary was just too bright for me. 703s were ok but a bit of a disappointment. A set of Focals at a discounted price of $999 impressed me at the store. A bit bright but not too bright with a great soundstage. Seemed more musical and warmer compared to the 606s driven by the same components. Didn't buy them and now the price is nearly double so will have to wait. Better looking speakers too.
@@memcdm Yes you described it very well with the Focal speakers. It’s a perfect middle ground. Not too bright, not too boomy and not too warm. I used a mains power conditioner with mine and it greatly improves the sound stage. It’s more taller and wider now but with similar sound signature.
I'm not sure what they were paired with but I have these with my Anthem 225 and it couldn't have better separation. Remarkable soundstage height and width. Just great. But as with ALL resolving speakers.....garbage in, etc. etc.
that intro was hilarious
Great review Randy. I would like to hear more about this airplay delima. You referenced a Darko video? Cant seem to find it. Can you provide a link? Thanks
Another excellent review. Will you review the Yamaha R-N1000A network receiver/amp? or the KEF R3 Metas? Thanks
Just out of curiosity, did anyone, not a patron, win a give-a-way item? I didn't see anything about it.
I always wonder about that too with these "giveaways". If someone will clickbait, they might not be above baiting their hook with fantasy without substance. I 've seen this kind of thing on other channels and on this one before. TH-cam should check up on these guys occasionally and make them produce proof they sent someone something, with the date sent of utmost importance. Fudging something once you are called out on it, is what I think they would try. Using a friend or relative to deceive. Not saying this happened; but it's a good bet it has happened before on TH-cam.
Use a warm, powerful amp with these speakers (Parasound, Arcam, Hegel, Accuphase, McIntosh, etc..) & get rewarded.
If you can afford those amps, you're not going with B&W's entry level.
That makes a lot of different devices in where the signal are switching and travelling. Of course it sounded bad. I've tested these but with a cd player and a turntable, in a receiver and in a combo pre-amp/power, and they sounded like for my taste.
"We can live beside the ocean... Watch the world die." From Lincoln Nebraska (1963 - 1990) to Clearwater Beach Florida.
When is the review of the Vanatoo transparent one encore plus. I have them, they rule, but I'd like to hear your opinion.
GOOD JOB !!!!! KEEP IT UP!!!!!!
How would they combine with the Wiim Amp?
When you first listen to a new speaker don’t use a streaming source. Why not just use a high quality CD player with a high quality preamp and amplifier? The fewer pieces of electronics that you have in the audio chain the better everything sounds. It’s an old fashioned theory that actually works. After the first listen then use a goofy streaming source. But minimize the equipment in the playback chain. Each piece of gear adds noise and distortion of different types. You may not agree with this but it’s reality and that’s all it is.
My go-to for years was an old (vintage) Pioneer amp with a CD player attached to it. The brick would go down to 4 ohms, so the problem was never the speaker - lol. But I get it - he's trying to replicate the experience us "cheap audio" people are likely to experience. But, yes, so many things in a chain, with so many little chips all waiting to have a headache with something else.
The problem with B&W is that they are really high end speakers and need to be matched with high end components- I guarantee you the "problems" with the sound you mentioned can be resolved with better quality/matched electronics.
I've got the 707 s2 with my powernode I love them
All of the issues people have with B&W speakers, and I'm talking almost all of them because they all use the same design choice, is from the crossover. They choose to use the yellow driver as a nearly full range driver and ride the tweeter on top of it to give it a bit of sharpness/clarity. This is very problematic, it uses the mid driver up into 3 zones where the driver has a response peak and those peaks correspond exactly to the frequencies that bug people and to the lumpy and spiky over-all frequency response. It turns the tweeter into a spike. It's kinda crazy because the tweeter is actually pretty nice and plays dead flat from like 1k hz to 20k hz... So bin the crap binding post for tube connectors and re design the crossover and you can have a radically better speaker than you started with. Yes, it does change away from the signature B&W sound that comes from those (bad) design choices, you will no longer feel the tweeter is too much or harsh etc and you won't have the long overlap of the drivers making those frequencies variable depending on the location of your ears.
@cheapaudioman - Thanks for these. Two questions. I still own my pair of ELAC UB52’s primarily because of what I read about them and TH-cam reviews like yours on them. Three years later, how do you feel they hold up? Also, I’ve them paired up with an ELAC S10.2 sub and a Marantz SR5013 140W/channel @ 6 ohms. I play locally stored lossless ALAC files via WiFi & AirPlay 2 hosted on my MacBook Pro. So I get CD quality “lossless” playback. You mention your application of AirPlay was bad here in this video. Can you recommend a way to get better playback of the lossless files on my MacBook with my AVR? Thanks, bud.
Hey, B&W installer here.
Just use a Sonos AMP or a Rotel amp. No less than 125w per speakers.
They’re high end speakers, not $300 speakers.
B&W doesn't rate them that way.
I'm using a Bryston 3bst.
Would it be ok to pair them with a Yamaha Rn 602? Or would they require a better receiver?
You can't use cheap audio amps or poor recordings with Bowers. They actually used to be worse. They have smoothed them out a little the last few releases. It's all about clarity and details. Bad sources are shrill...
I got the Px8 around a month back. And omfg these are the best headphones I have tried. After comparing against QC45, they are not even in the same league. I know that's not saying much. I haven't compared to other brands like AudioTechnica or Sony (I don't like Sennheiser at all) but Px8 will crush them all imo. The only other headphones which can beat the Px8 would be Focal headphones. Although they are quite expensive, and at that price I would definitely get B&W loudspeaker set. B&W speakers and tech reproduce sound faithfully imho.
THANKS RANDY 🤗😎REVIEW…SHOWING,THIS IS THE BEST TIME TO BE AN AUDIOPHILE 💚💚💚
What do you call "directly from the wiim" Chromecast?
Is BW 606 S3 sounds good with WIIM Amp? I am now connecting WIIM Amp with KEF 50 which is almost 10 years old, the combination is pretty bad, I don't know what's wrong, I think it's similar to what you've said at the beginning, feeling want to send them back. :)
Hi Randy . Another great interesting video, how do you compare these over the 606s2 annerversary, I have still have dm602s3 with my Rotel A11 tribune , also sounds petty good but I prefer my old b&W speakers . Regards mark
I have the Rotel A11 Tribute and I am running it through the old 600 bookshelves. I like it, but I will be upgrading to these new S3's... The bookshelves will go in my office with the A10 and turntable.
I love that A11!
@@geographyinaction7814 hi, I also have dm600 s3 they are on my Hitachi ax-m140 system and sound pretty good, I recently bought 606 s2 anniversary although they sound good I still have my old dm 602 s3 , as you know on the A11 you have 2 sets of speaker outputs so I can still enjoy my old and new sound . I think the new A10 is great but won’t be replacing my A11 as new mk2 don’t have a b speakers and no pre output for your sub . Good luck with your new system it’s going to sound great . Regards mark
I tried a bunch of speakers. Really disliked them all except the b&w… which I totally loved.
I’ve got a WiiM amp at the moment. I think that’ll be an upgrade path for me in the future.
Got me a wiim pro plus on Amazon day, seems decent. Bluetooth is kinda weak, no surprise. Anyone know what bit rates it can output digitally? Pretty sure one of y'all youtubers ia getting an affiliate kickback 😊
You can go into the menu and select your output resolution, up to 24/192.
@@pnichols6500 thanks 👍
I have seen an oak finish with a black baffle surround on a you tube video.
Might be available in another region.
it ranks high in this product category, especially since it costs around €1,800 in Europe, and in this product category, this is actually the best choice, because all the other brands that say at least this way are significantly more expensive
I'd buy these speakers before any other speaker you've +ever reviewed. The only exception might be the Tektons. I would definitely bi-amp them to dial in the woofer to the tweeter to my liking. I'd still high pass them at 100 hz and send the lows to my quad 15" woofers.
Tekton Lores and Zu Audio speakers made in the U.S.A. are bona fide excellent. But I have Martin Logans.
You should buy these and the tektons then. I would personally like to hear his experience.
Just wondering if the grilles fall off incredibly easily and frustratingly like the 607 and 606 S2s do? With both of those models, all you have to do is breathe on them a bit too heavily and the grilles drop right off. Annoying.
True!
Cool!
hey, a trumpet can only play c6 & that’s about 1040 hertz, other reviewers loved the sound
Bowers and Wilkins are generally on the cool side, but they are very transparent, I think what your hearing is rubbish in rubbish out. Note to self when testing higher priced speakers, make sure the rest of your test rig is up to it !!. Some Speakers will make rubbish sound okay, but really good speakers will tell it how it is and that's not always a bad thing.
I think rubbish in rubbish out is such an old terminology but if it makes people think they sound intelligent & knowledgeable then let them wallow in it. I personally think hifi critics can sound full of b s & obnoxious. Just enjoy music on a reasonably priced system without all the twaddle. If it is crap then you wouldn't buy it, that's why I listen to them before I buy after expert views from the likes of hifi magazines that have been around the block for many years before I decide on purchases. Hifi is in most of my families blood, I have a very successful dj in law that supports top chart bands at his gigs & another brother that was so obsessed with my system in the early 80's he baby sat for free while the wife & I had nights out, he eventually has such a collection of music running into hundreds of thousands with a personally hand built vinyl deck. Having hifi is infectious. Fun, relaxing, entertaining, obsessive, mesmerising, compulsive & costly if it gets out of hand. But you only live once. Oh I do own Bowers & Wilkins I bought them for the reason tens of thousand others have, because they are up in the top when it comes to speaker design & innovative tech.
@@ENGLISHISBEST Nothing wrong with reasonably priced anything, just best not to put with a highly resolving pair of 2 grand speakers and wonder why it sounds crap. Its not obnoxious just factual. Put a mini gear box in a porsch, it will pull away from the lights like a mini. I have a budget system in a spare room and its fab, because it's comparitviely priced. Put an expensive anything through something cheap and 99% of the time your getting the best out of it. As for Bowers and Wilkins I do not live far from them and have done the factory tour, personally I prefer the Dali house sound Bowers. Having hi Fi blood sounds obnoxious to me, but remember we are all entiltled to an opinion.
I am confused what the problem was with AIrplay
He was going to say they were bad until he saw the check again 😂
I seen these on sale on Amazon during prime days for $599 but stayed away. All the reviews sounded like these had horrible top end. Holding out for the Revel Concerta2 M16 to go on sale in black.
Any luck troubleshooting the original signal path?
Anyone have these or even the 607 s2 paired with a Cinema 50?
I had the B&W CM6 S2, now about at same price point, but originally a step above at >$2K/pair. The mid range was horribly mushed compared to my new Pearlacoustics Sibelius SG (higher price league) on a Rotel RA1572 (B&W and Rotel have same parent company, so should be tuned to one another) back then, with direct source input. Was happy to get rid of them. I think with B&W you pay a lot for the name, but not a lot of quality. I would look elsewhere. The B&W CM6 SII were my first serious speaker, so I paid for my mistake and lack of experience. Putting better electronics on the Sibelius (PrimaLuna Evo 300 pre, PassLabs XA25 power, solid sources) improved sound even further.
I thought it was a really fun speaker. I wouldn't mind having a pair to rotate in every now and again. Probably wouldn't be my forever speaker but they can be fun with the right tracks and the right front end.
Rotel doesnt pair well with B&W. Marantz is muuuch better pairing.
I still own the cm6s2 and i drive em with an LFD LE3 amp. No mushed up midrange at all. Huge soundstage, staggering transients, transparency & dynamics & with a super extended airy & sweet treble. Even after listening to some super duper setups, i don’t feel short changed when listening to my cheap cm6s2. When i listened to the cm6s2 at the showroom, they sounded really meh. Brought them home & i got a huge WOW! I pair them with a REL T7i sub & what a blast!
Can you compare it with klh model 3?
B&Ws may not be best Metal or Grunge speakers , but they shine with folk, classical, jazz, acoustical.
I say that all the time abt jazz & acoustic, especially if it's an older recording bfore the 80's. Alot of the newer overly compressed stuff with alot of sibilance would probably sound best on a more neutral speaker.
Many heavy metal recordings are terrible, best way to gauge heavier , or heavy instrumental music go with a well produced , great music production Progressive Rock albums , Rush, Dream Theater , Aryeon albums are usually produced well . Grunge music is Terrible for any test listening runs .
How I play via iPhone ?
I assume none of the described sound was due to the room instead?
What happened to the "cheapaudioman"?
That IS cheap for Audiophile gear!
Is this the same issue with the 606 S2? They were being sold on ebay for under $400 for a white pair. There were a bunch of bad reviews here so I didn’t pull the trigger.
Do you think the new 706 s3 have abandoned the excessive presence of bass with respect to 606 s3?
All B&W 600 speakers have had a midrange dip and tipped up tweeter, but the 600S3 series in the early 2000s were the last ones that had a mild mid dip and treble rise that was listenable. All the subsequent 600 series since then, until now, had that huge midrange suckout and way too hot tweeter, which only accentuated the midrange suckout, and they all sounded terrible, totally unlistenable. This is the first 600 series since those 600S3 series in the early 2000s that toned it down again, and don't have a too huge midrange suckout and way too hot tweeter, and are now finally more listenable again, with the tamer balance that they had back in the day. But, if a record or CD is mixed with hot treble, these are still going to maybe accentuate it too much, compared to more balanced speakers.
Got the original 606 a couple of years ago for half off (like 450$). It sounds like the new tweeter's too bright. I don't have that lack of detail/overly bright issues on the original and the S2 HTM6. Not sure if you do this, but maybe try the older generations? See what you think in comparison.
I like these better than my 909’s because the tweeters are on top.
…wait a minute…
😂
Perhaps using a lower cost DAC would do a better job of demonstrating the kind of results that most users can expect with the more affordable gear in their systems. Its good to have your reference gear to see just how good something can sound when paired with it, but using more affordable gear for reviews helps us common folk form reasonable expectations. Lol Keep grinding CAM!
These remind me of the old Tannoy Revolution bookshelf speakers from about 20 years ago. Solid, and about as good as you can expect for something this small. That said, no, they are not even as good as my old JBLs from the 90s. But then again, large bookshelf speakers the size of a PA speaker /mini fridge haven't been a popular option for a while.
TL;DR: As good as these are, they are not a similar priced 8 inch speaker if you have the space, because mass generally wins in the end.