1984 Mercedes 300SD W126 - Front Suspension Rebuild - Part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- #impalamansgarage
In this video I continue disassembling the driver's side
front suspension. I spent a couple of days waiting on delivery
of a new ball joint separator for the the lower control arm.
Tools
OTC 8149 Pitman Arm Puller - Also works for Mercedes lower control arm ball joints ! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You look like Red from the 70's show. Lol. I'm watching your videos waiting on you to call me a moron lol ha 🤣😆 I love the videos , keep them coming👍👍👍
Dude! The guys work say the same thing. LMAO
Perfect! Exactly what i'm doing right now. Liked and Subscribed Mr. Impalaman. Thank you!
Thank you for making these! Great reference tools!
More to come. This is an on going project.
@@ImpalamansGarage I'm sure this takes time! Keep up the good work! Thanks again!
You could spread the pads apart to allow them to get past the lip. I do it that way with my w123. Just saying.
For the removal of the calipers, get channel locks and squeeze the ears of the pads onto a lip of the caliper to decompress the pistons just a little... my ridge on the calipers were way worse, and i still got em out.
Good tip. Our VW does this as well. Must be a German car thing. I've never encountered this on my other vehicles.
FYI, the lip on rotor is for a quick check of rotor wear. Larger the lip on outer edge is to give even a layman a good idea of how much rotor is left. When working on a German engineered automobile, one must change from American junk and disposable cars to working on life long investment automobiles. Quite ingenious in my opine.
I completely disagree. It makes rotor removal overly difficult. Taking a rotor off should be like falling off a log.
I've been servicing Benz motorcars for over 4 decades and i understand German engineering. A simple large flat screw diver to push pads back seems fairly simple to me. Knock out 2 pins and anti-chatter spring, remove pad sensors and wala, remove pads!! They are 20 years ahead of any American car maker in the nation. They were smart enough to dump Mopar because of their incompetent car and truck manufacturing, and i won't even go into GM's total zero QC, or Fords crappy electronics. I'm in hopes that you too can understand the "why" they do things. Everything they do is anally thought out and meticulously assembled. I will agree that ALL the auto manufactures are in way over their heads in electronics though. 1 module goes down and one can be looking at hundreds if not thousands of $$$$$s to replace!!!!
@@Markdc94 thinking that this has the makings of a good video.... "brand bashing".
It's for safety during maintenance and avoiding a sharp 90 degree edge which is not good for heat stress and cracking.
The tie rod end looked like you put a grease point on it.
Which specific point in this video are you referring to ?
I use Moog tie rod ends later in the video series that have grease fittings for routine servicing.
I'm rebelding my front suspension also ,i got 126W 300Se 89..
Good luck to you!
Lip on the rotor is to prevent a sharp 90 degree sharp edge on the rotor. Not only is this for safety but prevents heat and stress cracking on the rotor. If your lip is so thick that the pads won't clear it and the pads don't fall off, likely your rotor is worn in too much and beyond the minimum rotor thickness for replacement.
Well I replaced them anyway. I still think it's stupid. LOL.....
I've never once a problem with any of my America car brakes. None of them are designed to develop a lip on the outside edge. They all use the entire surface of the surface during braking.
Now having said all that..... the brakes on this old W126 are wonderful. Extremely smooth and precise. So there is that.
Any chance you might link the rebuilt kit and moog tie rod ?
I used a variety of on line vendors to source all of the parts. (Pelican, FCP, PartsGeek, ECS, Rock Auto, RMEuro) Check Rock Auto for the tie rods.
Where did you order your braking support bracket bushings from?
I can't recall now but I usually order parts from Pelican, FCPEuro, Partsgeek, or Autohousaz.