According to the SPL install guide "One of the smaller bumpsteer spacers (3) needs to go underneath the rod end for articulation purposes regardless of how many spacers are on top of the rod end. At 18:08 it appears you do not have this setup and the bolt "can" hit the rod end when articulating as seen in your vid.
great video! I am wondering if I should get the SPL lower arm to max out the track width while at the mean time adjusting the camber plate to acheive my target camber. However, will that increase too much caster causing rub in the fender liner?
I did LCA and also the Upper Monoball on F30 340i, big mistake, potholes or even small bumps feel like landmines, returning the upper back to stock and going with only lower
Thanks for the video! I’m installing SLP lower control arms and can’t clear the sway bar end link. From watching your video it looks like you jacked the wheel hub to get the lower control arm horizontal? Also let me know if you have a video for the DIY alignment.
Yes, technically everything should be torqued at ride height so you have to jack up the arm to line everything up and then torque it down before letting the suspension droop.
New Subscriber. Been following a lot of your content as of recent. So much helpful information. I do have a question about these adjustable control arms. I am planning on running the H&R/Bilstein B8 combo with monoballs. I want to run a little more negative camber in the front, However I don't want to switch to a camber plate because I'm afraid those won't last very long especially for a daily driver. Will these be able to help with that a bit? if so, how much camber could you theoretically get? I also looked into M3 wishbones, not too convinced on that set up. or Should I call it day and run a camber plate with the H&R/B8 combo? Thanks! :)
Great video! after seeing it I want to install the F2x / F3x Control Arms too. But first I would like to ask you a couple of informations: - Is it recommended to install control arms only for racing use or are they also suitable for normal street use? - Have you encountered premature wear due to salt and water that you find along the road? - I want to install it on 17 "wheel. Do you think that the screw of the arm touch the wheel? Thank you a lot
It will work well for street driving. I havent driven it in salt, but the bearings have a self-cleaning coating that prevents them from wearing fast. A 17" wheel will be very close but ut might fit
The M arms are a good upgrade from worn components, call it a 10% improvement. Properly installed and setup, our arms are night and day different, like a 25 - 30% improvement. A lot more steering precision, better steering feel and tire feedback, and considerably more grip with more camber angle and optimized toe. Less roll and bumpsteer if you're lowered. The tradeoff is a bit more road noise and feedback on rough roads, moreso with spherical caster arms or caster rod bushings.
hey i have a 2020 supra and as you know they have a notorious problem with bumpsteer Can you just purchase and install JUST the bump steer kit? or should i get the LCA aswell? cheers.
I don't think so. For my total ride quality, 80% is from the coilovers, 10% from camber plates and 10% from these arms. Mostly i just feel more feedback in the wheel but it's not harsh or noisy
@@kern417 I see have you don the tension arms since installing these. I would most likely hold off on the tie rods n=since I'm not lowered and just do the LCAs and the tension rods.
@@FritzRamos actually i haven't done the tension rods yet. But i will say the LCAs make the biggest difference and I'd do them first. The tie rods are more of a "nice to have."👍🏾
@@kern417 Thanks so much for making this video and sharing your experience. It really helped me in making my videos on the LCA and thrust arms. Hope you are doing well.
Hey dude, Ive got a F80 m3 lowered on Ac Shnitzer coilovers, Just had my Geometry set up and installed New front inner and outer tie rods, i feel as if im getting more bump steer now then ever before, you reckon having stock control arms and uprated SPL front tie rods would eliminate bump steer..i dont hit the track, just street driving.
You can fix a lot of that with our adjustable tie rod ends, which allow you to correct the tie rod angle via 1/8" and 1/4" spacers. A typical alignment won't fix bumpsteer.
How are they holding up? Was thinking to just get their caster adjustable bushing to pair with the M's LCA to revert the suspension geometry closer to OEM.
Yeah. But I pop mine twice during full locked as i've lowered my ride height. Just got it change so to avoid it as the links seems slightly under tension when using the oems ones.
I didn't notice a tradeoff in comfort but I'm already lowered on camber plates. Coilovers made the biggest difference, and since then i haven't felt it get much more harsh. Theres more road noise and road feel through the steering wheel, but nothing that I'd consider to much for daily driving. If youre not as low as me then it may be more noticeable. And yes, Definitely more steering feel. It responds much faster to steering input.
@@kern417 I am running an e90 328 and so far I have swapped the upper/lower control arms with the m3 arms and it was great. Better control and more feel with no increase in nvh. Next I am going to get the B14 coilovers from Bilstein and add these tie rods. Looking for a really good handling daily.
Thanks for this very informative video. I’m on the fence on purchasing the rear toe arms and the front tie rod ends from SPL as well since I am lowered on coils and doing an entire suspension refresh for my E92. Serious question for you. How long do you think these will hold up used on the street as a daily? How is your experience so far with SPL parts? They only warranty 1 year for track use only.
I haven't had any issues. I think they will last a long time, and they sell spare parts in case you need to replace bearings. It mostly depends on if you drive in rough conditions like a lot of dirt or salt.
@@kern417 Thanks for the reply. That's good to know they have replacement parts. Did it increase much NVH at all? Was it noticeable to you? Would you say the rears stiffened up a lot? I understand coilovers and your height already added stiffness but just wondering if it will be passable for a daily / mostly street driven car. Thanks again!
Our warranty is technically the 1 year but we often work with customers that run into issues on a case-by-case basis. We want people to enjoy the parts, go on track days, auto-x, etc. That's what we do with them and that's why we make them. Like any bushing, the sphericals are a wear item. They will eventually start to wear out and develop a bit of rattle. We order our rod ends with the tightest possible clearance so that they have the longest service life, which ranges between 2 - 5 years (or longer) for street cars and 1 to maybe 2 years for aero-laden, race tire track cars. Rod ends are currently about $13 - 25 / ea depending on size and type, so pretty affordable. They can be replaced without having to re-align the car as well.
Like any bushing, the sphericals are a wear item. They will eventually start to wear out and develop a bit of rattle. We order our rod ends with the tightest possible clearance so that they have the longest service life, which ranges between 2 - 5 years (or longer) for street cars and 1 to maybe 2 years for aero-laden, race tire track cars. Rod ends are currently about $13 - 25 / ea depending on size and type, so pretty affordable. They can be replaced without having to re-align the car as well.
@@kern417 do you know if the front upper control arm (tension rods) are necessary? Bc im about to buy the lca, tie rod, and endlink (uuc one broke) but its damn expensive.
The arms on the G2x are different than F2x/F3x and have slightly different shapes. I wouldn't try to make the SPL fit without taking measurements to confirm first.
@@FaRKle0079 I was planning on buying the f80 arms because they looked the same and I knew people used OEM f80 arms on our cars, but when I contacted SPL they told me they were making one's design for our cars and I waited. I bet it's the same thing for the G20. 👍🏾
This is an amazing video explaining how the Mcpherson strut should be setup when you lower the car... thanks! Much gratitude!
Clean ass build bro, nice video learned a lot. Just grabbed some SPL arms and have been a little confused how everything works
Great video! Really helpfull. Many thanks fir your effort and sharing knowledge and experience
According to the SPL install guide "One of the smaller bumpsteer spacers (3) needs to go underneath the rod end for articulation purposes regardless of how many spacers are on top of the rod end. At 18:08 it appears you do not have this setup and the bolt "can" hit the rod end when articulating as seen in your vid.
That's not on the install guide for my car. I've had this setup for over 3 years now without any issues.
Should I be running spacers on stock suspension?
great video! I am wondering if I should get the SPL lower arm to max out the track width while at the mean time adjusting the camber plate to acheive my target camber. However, will that increase too much caster causing rub in the fender liner?
If you extend the toe arms it should compensate A bit
I have the Tie Rods and these LCA on my e92 M3
I did LCA and also the Upper Monoball on F30 340i, big mistake, potholes or even small bumps feel like landmines, returning the upper back to stock and going with only lower
Thanks for the video! I’m installing SLP lower control arms and can’t clear the sway bar end link. From watching your video it looks like you jacked the wheel hub to get the lower control arm horizontal? Also let me know if you have a video for the DIY alignment.
Yes, technically everything should be torqued at ride height so you have to jack up the arm to line everything up and then torque it down before letting the suspension droop.
I haven't had a chance to make the DIY alignment video yet but I will do that in the future
New Subscriber. Been following a lot of your content as of recent. So much helpful information.
I do have a question about these adjustable control arms. I am planning on running the H&R/Bilstein B8 combo with monoballs. I want to run a little more negative camber in the front, However I don't want to switch to a camber plate because I'm afraid those won't last very long especially for a daily driver.
Will these be able to help with that a bit? if so, how much camber could you theoretically get? I also looked into M3 wishbones, not too convinced on that set up.
or Should I call it day and run a camber plate with the H&R/B8 combo? Thanks! :)
@17:30 is that inner tie rod supposed to still be able to move after you lock down the blue screw?
when it's tightened it should move with the outer tie rod
Great video! after seeing it I want to install the F2x / F3x Control Arms too.
But first I would like to ask you a couple of informations:
- Is it recommended to install control arms only for racing use or are they also suitable for normal street use?
- Have you encountered premature wear due to salt and water that you find along the road?
- I want to install it on 17 "wheel. Do you think that the screw of the arm touch the wheel?
Thank you a lot
It will work well for street driving. I havent driven it in salt, but the bearings have a self-cleaning coating that prevents them from wearing fast. A 17" wheel will be very close but ut might fit
@@kern417 How long have you mounted the arms?
How many kilometers have you traveled?
thank you
About 7000 mi
I understand that these are better, im not going to be on track just spirited driving. Do i still go for spl parts or upgrade to the M stuff?
these are better than the f8x arms
The M arms are a good upgrade from worn components, call it a 10% improvement. Properly installed and setup, our arms are night and day different, like a 25 - 30% improvement. A lot more steering precision, better steering feel and tire feedback, and considerably more grip with more camber angle and optimized toe. Less roll and bumpsteer if you're lowered. The tradeoff is a bit more road noise and feedback on rough roads, moreso with spherical caster arms or caster rod bushings.
In which case would you want to upgrade the upper control arm (thrust arm)?
If you feel excessive wheel movement during braking
hey i have a 2020 supra and as you know they have a notorious problem with bumpsteer
Can you just purchase and install JUST the bump steer kit? or should i get the LCA aswell? cheers.
Yes you can just get one but the LCA provides the biggest performance benefit
Would you say this is too rough for a daily? If stock is a 10/10 for comfort, where would you rank this set up?
I don't think so. For my total ride quality, 80% is from the coilovers, 10% from camber plates and 10% from these arms. Mostly i just feel more feedback in the wheel but it's not harsh or noisy
@@kern417 I see have you don the tension arms since installing these. I would most likely hold off on the tie rods n=since I'm not lowered and just do the LCAs and the tension rods.
@@FritzRamos actually i haven't done the tension rods yet. But i will say the LCAs make the biggest difference and I'd do them first. The tie rods are more of a "nice to have."👍🏾
@@kern417 thanks! That was a big help
@@kern417 Thanks so much for making this video and sharing your experience. It really helped me in making my videos on the LCA and thrust arms. Hope you are doing well.
How have these help up so far? Also, how foes these compare to the VAC monoball option from kies?
Holding up great
No idea but probably similar
@@kern417 debating between these 2 as i do plan on running coils in the near future so i love the idea of the adjustability the SPL’s offer
Hey dude, Ive got a F80 m3 lowered on Ac Shnitzer coilovers, Just had my Geometry set up and installed New front inner and outer tie rods, i feel as if im getting more bump steer now then ever before, you reckon having stock control arms and uprated SPL front tie rods would eliminate bump steer..i dont hit the track, just street driving.
Double check your alignment first. Make sure the front toe is not out of wack
@@kern417 getting it back in the shop for another geo set up soon.
You can fix a lot of that with our adjustable tie rod ends, which allow you to correct the tie rod angle via 1/8" and 1/4" spacers. A typical alignment won't fix bumpsteer.
@AlanAtSPL send me a link for the tie rod ends please
How are they holding up? Was thinking to just get their caster adjustable bushing to pair with the M's LCA to revert the suspension geometry closer to OEM.
They're holding up great
Surprise to see you are still on stock drop links eventhough u are lowered that much..
@@colinng9113 there's no real benefit to adjustable ones for me. I won't be corner balancing the car
Yeah. But I pop mine twice during full locked as i've lowered my ride height. Just got it change so to avoid it as the links seems slightly under tension when using the oems ones.
@@colinng9113 something else is wrong if you're breaking them.
I was just wondering how the trade off between comfort and performance is with these tie rods? Also did you get more steering feel?
I didn't notice a tradeoff in comfort but I'm already lowered on camber plates. Coilovers made the biggest difference, and since then i haven't felt it get much more harsh. Theres more road noise and road feel through the steering wheel, but nothing that I'd consider to much for daily driving. If youre not as low as me then it may be more noticeable.
And yes, Definitely more steering feel. It responds much faster to steering input.
@@kern417 I am running an e90 328 and so far I have swapped the upper/lower control arms with the m3 arms and it was great. Better control and more feel with no increase in nvh. Next I am going to get the B14 coilovers from Bilstein and add these tie rods. Looking for a really good handling daily.
All tie rods are solid. So there's little to no vibration difference.
I want to get the lower control arms for more front camber for a stance build (just about-3/-5 degrees) how would add camber to it?
Extend it from the adjustable joint
@@kern417 thanks!
think i’d be able to get -10 camber with these and regular airlift plates?
I doubt it
what’s max you’d say?
@@dfishr maybe like 6-7
meh not too shabby
Do you plan on buying their rear setup as well?
In the future, but it's not in the budget right now. Too many rear arms 😅
kern417 yea I feel you lol. Spl offers a lot for our cars
Do you plan on doing same for the rear? Also would the rear help for traction in drag for rwd
I do but it's not a priority for me. It can help with wheel hop if you're experiencing that.
Thanks for this very informative video. I’m on the fence on purchasing the rear toe arms and the front tie rod ends from SPL as well since I am lowered on coils and doing an entire suspension refresh for my E92. Serious question for you. How long do you think these will hold up used on the street as a daily? How is your experience so far with SPL parts? They only warranty 1 year for track use only.
I haven't had any issues. I think they will last a long time, and they sell spare parts in case you need to replace bearings. It mostly depends on if you drive in rough conditions like a lot of dirt or salt.
@@kern417 Thanks for the reply. That's good to know they have replacement parts. Did it increase much NVH at all? Was it noticeable to you? Would you say the rears stiffened up a lot? I understand coilovers and your height already added stiffness but just wondering if it will be passable for a daily / mostly street driven car. Thanks again!
No noticeable increase in nvh for me. No rattles or anything
Our warranty is technically the 1 year but we often work with customers that run into issues on a case-by-case basis. We want people to enjoy the parts, go on track days, auto-x, etc. That's what we do with them and that's why we make them. Like any bushing, the sphericals are a wear item. They will eventually start to wear out and develop a bit of rattle. We order our rod ends with the tightest possible clearance so that they have the longest service life, which ranges between 2 - 5 years (or longer) for street cars and 1 to maybe 2 years for aero-laden, race tire track cars. Rod ends are currently about $13 - 25 / ea depending on size and type, so pretty affordable. They can be replaced without having to re-align the car as well.
hey my shop says the spherical bearings on the LCA will wear out quickly. Was this an issue for you?
nope
Like any bushing, the sphericals are a wear item. They will eventually start to wear out and develop a bit of rattle. We order our rod ends with the tightest possible clearance so that they have the longest service life, which ranges between 2 - 5 years (or longer) for street cars and 1 to maybe 2 years for aero-laden, race tire track cars. Rod ends are currently about $13 - 25 / ea depending on size and type, so pretty affordable. They can be replaced without having to re-align the car as well.
Did you consider using a f80 controll arm since your not xdrive
These are better than the F80 control arms
how was the NVH difference now that you've driven on them for awhile?
No difference to me
for the headlight adjustment part, is it ok to use the oem plastic piece?
Yes, that's what I did. Just push it onto the knob fitting.
Starting at 13:06 you can see it's just the OEM piece attached to the control arm.
@@kern417 do you know if the front upper control arm (tension rods) are necessary? Bc im about to buy the lca, tie rod, and endlink (uuc one broke) but its damn expensive.
@@letmeknow4167 not necessary for most people
Did you already change to M3 LCA & TS as well ?
This is an LCA, you can't run both. I don't have the TS.
Bro xdrive plz
who is xdrive
Will this fit awd?
Yes
Thanks 🐐
Is it the same with G series....?
The process is the same, but they need to confirm fitment on G2x models
The arms on the G2x are different than F2x/F3x and have slightly different shapes. I wouldn't try to make the SPL fit without taking measurements to confirm first.
@@FaRKle0079 I was planning on buying the f80 arms because they looked the same and I knew people used OEM f80 arms on our cars, but when I contacted SPL they told me they were making one's design for our cars and I waited. I bet it's the same thing for the G20. 👍🏾