Great video SVB! Couple of tips and comments: The big subframe replacement bushings are a bit easier to install if you toss them in the freezer for about an hour before. We can't recommend the practice of torque striping, the blue lines/marks on the hardware, enough for cars that are driven enthusiastically (even do it for OEM!). It makes visual checks for loose hardware much easier. Something that many people seem to miss with the sway bar upgrades is that the more spring you put into the car, the less effective the roll bar is. That's because sway bars produce their anti-roll resistance by twisting; they're torsion springs essentially. Higher spring rates, less body roll, more sway bar thickness needed for them to produce the same anti-roll contribution (if desired). This is why a NASCAR runs a 40+mm hollow sway bar. Personally, I recommend a strong spring rate bias with the coil spring(s), paired with a bar that gives me enough rotation mid-corner without hindering droop travel and lifting the driven inner wheel(s) (many differentials strongly dislike this). Lastly, the sway bar endlinks should be setup and tightened with the suspension on the ground/loaded to ensure no preload.
This is cool af, I have the whole front setup on my M3, the rear lockout and swaybar links too..! Subframe bushings were done around the same time...ironic how this video showed just about everything! Turner at SPL{Lead Engineer} is the man!
I would add the rear camber arm bushing and the rear trailing arm bushing to that list. I would even argue that the rear camber arm bushing contributes the most deflection in the rear and switching to a monoball in this position will yield most performance compared to the other arms.
Great video of the parts and install, but you should have gotten into what geometry angles you were going for, how much bump steer anti squat anti dive you were trying to dial in or out, how the alignment went, what was the behavior of the car before and after, some driver feedback on track, etc. This is why you are actually installing all the parts for, but the most important content was left out.
just need a cnc trailing arm and a set of eccentric bushes for the rear control arms and trailing arms to complete the package. Solid diff mounts on top for full track mode.
For the rear we have the outer LCA bushing on the knuckle side out now, and in a week or so we'll be announcing the inner LCA spherical bushing. Just a quick update for those that find the video.
No differential bushings nor a brace. Would love to hear how it sounded going down the highway over the expansion strips. No mention of which springs nor spring rates, either.
@@MrSoremuscles wtf thats garbage then is there any sealed ones that will last a long time i was under the impression that since they are metal and no rubber that it would last much much longer
@@X11CHASE is there any sealed ones that will last a long time i was under the impression that since they are metal and no rubber that it would last much much longer
1:27 brake lines love when you do that 🤦🏽♂️
I’ve been a loyal customer for 5 years cause I’ve had nothing but the best work done on all my bmws!
Great video SVB! Couple of tips and comments: The big subframe replacement bushings are a bit easier to install if you toss them in the freezer for about an hour before. We can't recommend the practice of torque striping, the blue lines/marks on the hardware, enough for cars that are driven enthusiastically (even do it for OEM!). It makes visual checks for loose hardware much easier.
Something that many people seem to miss with the sway bar upgrades is that the more spring you put into the car, the less effective the roll bar is. That's because sway bars produce their anti-roll resistance by twisting; they're torsion springs essentially. Higher spring rates, less body roll, more sway bar thickness needed for them to produce the same anti-roll contribution (if desired). This is why a NASCAR runs a 40+mm hollow sway bar. Personally, I recommend a strong spring rate bias with the coil spring(s), paired with a bar that gives me enough rotation mid-corner without hindering droop travel and lifting the driven inner wheel(s) (many differentials strongly dislike this).
Lastly, the sway bar endlinks should be setup and tightened with the suspension on the ground/loaded to ensure no preload.
This is cool af, I have the whole front setup on my M3, the rear lockout and swaybar links too..! Subframe bushings were done around the same time...ironic how this video showed just about everything! Turner at SPL{Lead Engineer} is the man!
how would you rate comfort on the system?
I would add the rear camber arm bushing and the rear trailing arm bushing to that list. I would even argue that the rear camber arm bushing contributes the most deflection in the rear and switching to a monoball in this position will yield most performance compared to the other arms.
Cant wait to get the whole set
E91 love is needed! My suspension is ragged, ready to upgrade.
Send us an email and we can surely put together a refresh/upgrade kit for you!
Great video of the parts and install, but you should have gotten into what geometry angles you were going for, how much bump steer anti squat anti dive you were trying to dial in or out, how the alignment went, what was the behavior of the car before and after, some driver feedback on track, etc. This is why you are actually installing all the parts for, but the most important content was left out.
Track ready 🏎️🏎️
That’s some nice big balling parts
just need a cnc trailing arm and a set of eccentric bushes for the rear control arms and trailing arms to complete the package. Solid diff mounts on top for full track mode.
For the rear we have the outer LCA bushing on the knuckle side out now, and in a week or so we'll be announcing the inner LCA spherical bushing. Just a quick update for those that find the video.
Would have been nice to see a test drive...
Car looks awesome above and below. Damn!!!
is that akropovic exhaust i see?
🔥🔥🔥🔥 because race car!!!
What length adjustable end links would you suggest going with? I've got a set of KW Clubsports and Hotchkis sway bars for my 2008 E92 M3 on the way.
No differential bushings nor a brace. Would love to hear how it sounded going down the highway over the expansion strips. No mention of which springs nor spring rates, either.
They’re just clout chasers/hypebeasts.. don’t expect that level of depth
Clean install, what size wheels are those?
So much bling bling 🤑
This is awesome, keep it up 👍
Is the kit available for non-M e90?
What’s the longevity like on those spherical bearings?
They aren't sealed.. gonna go with 6 months of street driving before dirt and dust start creating more slop and noise than stock arms.
Yes water and dirt will kill this expensive garbage
@@MrSoremuscles wtf thats garbage then is there any sealed ones that will last a long time i was under the impression that since they are metal and no rubber that it would last much much longer
@@captainminecraftist just put some boots on them. SPL uses FK bearings.
Great Video `!!! I will I can do the full replace ~!! Car must handle like a razor ~!
Thanks for watching. Handling definitely improved drastically.
Because race car all day 😂😎😎
When it comes to just the control arms, does this effect ride quality and is there any sounds
You are getting rid of most of the rubber bushings, there will most certainly an increase in NVH.
If you were just installing rear toe arms do they need to be torqued with the car on the ground? No right?
Hi, they should be torqued under load.
Any budjet friendly set? Maybe under 2500$?
Please inquire with us through email and we can cater something for your budget.
What's the weight difference?
Is it hurting to drive?
Is the trailing arm stock or upgraded?
Will the parts fit BMW E92 325I LCI - non M3 model
Absolutely
Does anybody know if these are good for a road car? I dont want to lose the comfort.
It’s not an ideal way to go about it for someone who cares about luxury and comfort.
Please Name tools used
Will this suspension upgrade increase my oil leak?
Will this kit fit a non M car?
Yes
Would be compatible for E8x?
Yup!
unsealed rose joints aren't going to last long
They’re here for a good time, not a long time…
@@X11CHASE is there any sealed ones that will last a long time i was under the impression that since they are metal and no rubber that it would last much much longer
@@captainminecraftistthese do last much longer in the sense that they are serviceable probably for life
what exhaust is that?
Gt Haus Meisterschaft GT/GT2.
Ill bet that back box cost more than my car .
Hotchkeez?? Cameber? 🤦🏻♂️
Deliver “more power to the wheels”. Seriously? No.