For tricky panels and for putty spots ill still bust out the old school hard rubber sanding block. Blocking in a x pattern, old habit from my auto body days. I agree use a hard pad/backer on the orbit sander for anything that needs to be flat. Dennis, for heavens sake stop using that red putty man. 3M makes an Acryl-White glazing putty, I started using that over 5 years ago and never looked back. Dries fast and shrinks far less than the red. Keep up the great content brother.
so, do you hand sand between your two finish coats or still use the power sanders. If you do hand sand, what does that look like? How much? How agressive? Thanks for all your help!
If I had to guess the wobble was in the door prior to prime, the original coating likely had failures and the substrate took on a bit of moisture thus causing some minor swelling. If your substrate has a lifted coating then assume it needs sanded first. Why lay down a beautiful prime job only to sand most of the material off anyways? I know why we prime, but asking why we would prime over an incomplete prepped substrate. Just a thought I'd put out there to get some honest discussion and feedback on. Not pointing fingers.
We flat sand everything before we prime. Then prime 2 coats. Sanding between. To get perfect results this will give you the best results for the waterbase finishing systems were using. When spraying solvent its not as important. There is more room for error in your top coat. Waterbase top coats require perfect prep. For best results
@@dennisrodriguez9700 - I assumed you did. You mentioned at the beginning of the video that people ask you these questions and I was putting it back out there that we should be doing our best in the prep stages or we'll end up having to do more work and waste product at the later stages. I feel like we rush to get to get to topcoat or hit production expectations and then act surprised when we don't have the intended finish outcome. I didn't mean to come off as snarky. Thanks for helping all of us take our work to the next level. I certainly appreciate you and your time.
![ค้างคืนโรงเก็บกระสวยอวกาศร้างกลางทะเลทราย [Around The World Ep. 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E5bWZQhABJE/mqdefault.jpg)
For tricky panels and for putty spots ill still bust out the old school hard rubber sanding block. Blocking in a x pattern, old habit from my auto body days. I agree use a hard pad/backer on the orbit sander for anything that needs to be flat. Dennis, for heavens sake stop using that red putty man. 3M makes an Acryl-White glazing putty, I started using that over 5 years ago and never looked back. Dries fast and shrinks far less than the red. Keep up the great content brother.
I just got my Graco X5 but now I'm seeing there is so much to learn to just do a kitchen....thanks for all your tips....
so, do you hand sand between your two finish coats or still use the power sanders. If you do hand sand, what does that look like? How much? How agressive? Thanks for all your help!
How many total wet mills of primer are on that cabinet? / how many coats? Thanks!
Perfect explanation, always appreciate the knowledge D 🙏🙌 gotta listen to the G.O.A.T
why are you using the sponge pad on on flat surface with surfprep? use only the film.
Excellent point
Great explanation & demonstration!!!
Fantastic short video!
If I had to guess the wobble was in the door prior to prime, the original coating likely had failures and the substrate took on a bit of moisture thus causing some minor swelling. If your substrate has a lifted coating then assume it needs sanded first. Why lay down a beautiful prime job only to sand most of the material off anyways? I know why we prime, but asking why we would prime over an incomplete prepped substrate. Just a thought I'd put out there to get some honest discussion and feedback on. Not pointing fingers.
We flat sand everything before we prime. Then prime 2 coats. Sanding between. To get perfect results this will give you the best results for the waterbase finishing systems were using. When spraying solvent its not as important. There is more room for error in your top coat. Waterbase top coats require perfect prep. For best results
@@dennisrodriguez9700 - I assumed you did. You mentioned at the beginning of the video that people ask you these questions and I was putting it back out there that we should be doing our best in the prep stages or we'll end up having to do more work and waste product at the later stages. I feel like we rush to get to get to topcoat or hit production expectations and then act surprised when we don't have the intended finish outcome. I didn't mean to come off as snarky. Thanks for helping all of us take our work to the next level. I certainly appreciate you and your time.
@@customrefinishingSTL na. Never. I'm just here to help if I can with.my experience hope it is helpful
Great explanation!!
Great video!
Thank u!