Having many miles of 18 wheeler experience (read: drum brakes!) I can say with certainty that Paul is very much correct in his assertions. Start by adjusting your driving style and approach to these cars. Attention to the Brake condition, Adjustment and proper technique make drum brakes viable even today. Some new cars still have them on the rear. The biggest take away? Drive defensively within the limits of your car, yourself and the rules of the road. Thanks Paul! Good show! PS: You have my vote.
One thing about drum brakes... If you drive through deep water, you must dry out your brakes. This is a non-issue with discs. Here in Florida during the summer season we get torrential downpours that flood some know areas.
@@williamforbes5826I drive both big rigs and a pre war of my own. My normal truck of the last 7 years doesn't even have an engine brake, yet I never had an issue with brake fade even when going through the Rockies with a full load. Driving a pre-war car is pretty much the exact same as driving a truck. Shifting, braking, cornering, acceleration, and often even lack of visibility, are all very much like driving a big truck. So, if you ever get in one, drive it like your truck and you'll do fine.
VW is using drums on the rear of their EVs because they have regenerative braking and don't need rear discs, so it saves them money. Personally, every used car with drum brakes I've ever bought had leaking rear brake cylinders. You can't let cars with drum brakes sit for a long time, especially if the brake fluid isn't changed every few years.
My dad bought a model A truck back in 83, he let it sit for 37 years, until I inherited it 3 years ago. I never really wanted it because I wanted his 34 5 window at the time. Well I am now on the path of restoring his pick up . I’m learning and having fun doing it. I want to bring it to my local cars and coffee since the oldest thing there now is a mid 50s Buick. I watch your channel for inspiration and how to’s when applicable. Thanks for what you do.
Paul you and Tina have done more for Model A’s that anyone I could think of. Thank you for all you do. You are responsible for me buying my second Model A last year after a 40 year absence. Best regards, Ron
Great . I learned in a model A pickup , gradpa tought me , "don't use the brakes ,they are expensive ".. haha working on getting my own now that iam in my late 60s .. love ur show . Hope u win sir . Thanks for ur passion for a wonderful car
I was told by a fellow at Rochester brake in NY that the bonded or riveted linings of the material you showed go with Iron, woven with steel. Woven and Iron grab to aggressively and can squeal. The other way around, (steel to bonded) not good brakes. I have found this to be true. I put Iron on my car, well worth the investment. Proper adjustment is also super important, as you have said in previous videos.
Paul enjoyed your how to drive a Model-A segment, I call this common sense driving is applicable for all vehicles. Example when you see the light is going to change a block and take your foot off the gas and let the idiots pass you will end up passing them without having to touch the brakes.
I grew up driving drum brake cars and trucks, and I learned all the ins and outs of that braking system. When they are adjusted right, there is nothing wrong with drum breaks, you just need to be a well-trained driver like me, lol. You are right about using manual transmissions. You would be amazed at the things I did with my old cars and when motorcycle racing. Good luck guys, Mike
Hey Mike!! I was hoping you would chime in. That art of driving cars with drum brakes is completely lost on new generations. I hope to educate them on what you learned as part of normal driver training back in the day.
I was a T bird guy for years and got interested in vintage technology and started to look at Model T’s. After seeing your videos. I got a Model A to restore. I appreciate its clever simplicity and the support from the model A people. You have my vote
Thanks for such an informative and instructional video! When I finally get an A I will for sure re-visit that advice! Showing the different brake drums was instructional too! If I was a member of the MAFCA I would for sure vote for you!
The "go work on your car" was an extra nice touch. 😊 Though it seems like still years away (my 31 Deluxe Roadster is in 1000 pieces), I'm looking forward to using your tips once she's got some put-put back in her.
Man what a great demonstration you gave us. I've driven a lot of sticks and I know what it's like to see someone who knows how to drive and brake or slow down a stick, you are awesome. I didn't know about the history of the brake drums either, so I wasn't sure how they got to cast iron drums, but now I do. Thanks Paul for the history and the driving lesson, loved it. I hope everyone has a great weekend and that you and Bob G and the rest of the dad's out there have a fantastic Father's Day.
Thanks for an excellent vid Paul! Id like to mention that brake fade is not just limited to brake adjustment and the expansion of the drum, when the organic style shoes reach around 450 deg F they can 'glaze over' which causes friction loss. the reason 'steel' drums are easier to get brake fade is because steel holds on to heat better than cast iron just due to the metallurgical properties of steel vs cast iron. so the same long stop on the same down grade the steel drum will be way hotter and fade way faster than a cast iron drum. If you ever get severe brake fade in your vehicle I highly recommend tearing the brakes down for a complete inspection! the shoes can crystalize and you can lose a lot of your stopping power from just one mistake of severe over heating of the shoes or pads for that matter! If you smell burnt brakes and or they are smoking they need to be inspected! check for 'fire cracked' shoes pads and drum or rotor surfaces. 'bonded' shoes and pads are more easily damaged from over heating vs riveted shoes and pads.
I grew up around big rigs. And found it a pleasure to observe good shifting. (I learned on a 5/4). Watching you takes me back. And really is a pleasure to observe!
Thank you for another excellent presentation, and helping me along my path of learning. Watching you drive, it’s tough to tell where you stop and the car begins - you are truly one with the vehicle and it shows. Thanks to Model T as well for the video work - you two are awesome! ~ Chuck
Great video Paul! I’ve been having a hard time stalling when coming to a complete stop at a stop sign/stop light. I learned a couple new tricks from this video I’m going to try out. Thanks for showing your skills
Really interesting video-not just from a standpoint of how to prevent brake fade, but I see so many antique car driving videos where the driver has no idea how to double clutch and downshift. Well done!
I (born in '94) just bought a 1930 Model A Sport Coupe. It needs a lot of work, but I look forward to the project. Guess I need to go join up with the MAFCA! I've only ever driven automatic trans cars, so it'll be a learning experience. I love your videos, and wish you luck in the MAFCA elections. Love your channel, keep up the great work!
I know you've included it in some earlier videos but this also shows very well how to double-clutch/downshift and at what speed for the 3rd to 2nd shift. I'm still trying to get the hang of it without grinding!
This helped me really understand the engine and transmission of the model A much better. been thinking about buying one in the far future (by far future I mean 5+ years from now most likely) but I wanted to learn about the model A a bit more because I Really love their design and the craftsmanship.
Paul, Excellent, Excellent video. I almost ran my model A in the bushes coming down a steep hill, I have a confidence now. Thank You! You have my Vote *****!
Thank you for this video, I recently went through, and strictly adhered to, the recommended brake adjustment process, and found a big difference in stopping power overall. Prior, my vehicle was using mostly the front bakes.
I've found that driving a pre war car is just like driving a big rig or motorcycle. Slow before you need to, easy through the corners, more room for acceleration, double clutch both up and down shift, and often even lack of clear visibility are all very much like driving a truck. When I drove my 31 home, it was the first time I ever drove something of that era and I didn't grind a gear once, and didn't use the brake at all except to hold it while stopped. You are absolutely correct on that, typically, the lack of braking power has nothing to do with drums. They can lock up all 4 wheels just as easily as discs. For a normal car, drums are just as capable. The problem with drums is heat soak. As the heat builds from use, drums have a much harder time shedding that heat than discs do. This is the main advantage of discs for most people, being able to stop more often before fading occurs. After seeing the difference between the original steel and later cast iron, I can appreciate why they are so much better. Just that one lip helps a lot to shed heat from the drum. Good video on the driving, people definitely need that knowledge to run any pre war car safely on today's roads and with modern traffic.
Good work Daniel! Yes, that style of driving that we were taught has been lost. These days, people drive to the performance limits of their jellybean on wheels all the time.
I got a little forgetful one day and tried to stop on a yellow light and ended up stopping halfway through the intersection! The cop that was following me was alert and stopped just right so I could back up and didn’t even say a thing to us. I imagine she was laughing some, but she did follow us through town some! Great explanation of brake fade. I’d always heard the term, but never understood, or took the time to understand why it happens.
Nice video, Paul. Love the ride in the country. For what it's worth, in 1980 a Deluxe Roadster might be had for $12,000.00 to $15,000.00. A rebuilt engine back then was $500.00. Today a Deluxe Roadster might bring $20,000.00 to maybe $25,000.00 but what happened to the engine? 10 times even 20 times the price of 1980. That is a problem. Our country's greatest re-source is our youth but they had better be quite affluent to play in this sandbox.
That goes for pretty much any car related hobby these days. Back when, labor was cheap and technology was expensive. Today, it is the other way around.
This was great, from beginning to end! Thank you! I appreciate the deep dive into a subject that doesn't normally get that level of attention. Also, the VGG advise to get to work was needed.
I am waiting on my packet now joined last week. You'll have my vote for what ever you Run for! This club needs your knowledge. And thank you for stepping up Paul and I'm sure Model T will be in there some where what a great team.
Another great video Paul! Glad to hear you are running for a spot on the MAFCA board!! You certainly have my vote!! I’ll keep an eye out for my next Restorer magazine.
Great video as always, Paul and Congratulations on almost 41,000 subscribers! I’m proud to be one of them. You’re absolutely right about the braking and using the engine to help slow you down. My daily driver is a 2013 Chevy Cruze with a six speed manual transmission. I bought this car new. This car has 194k miles on it and I have never done any work on the brakes. This is because I apply all the techniques you described. Everything you talked about is relevant on modern cars, trucks and tractors, which is how I learned about it in the first place.
Dear Paul I'm first time watching your video. I really appreciate your work. You have explained and demonstrated greatly. Believe me I'm also heavy driver here & driving is my passion.Your driving style has made me to feel that I am listening the beautiful conversation between two true lovers. 🤵❤🚗 Love from Dubai 🇦🇪.
Great pointers that not only work on Model As but on any other manual transmission vehicle. That’s exactly how I learned stick shift back in the day. Almost a lost art now. Love that ending! Just like Ferris Bueller’s Day Off….🤣😩
Paul, thanks again for a great video. One of the issues I see with newbs (and some experienced drivers) is they don't understand the sequence of downshifting or how the transmission works. That in turn makes it difficult to "row" the gearbox. Keep up the good work.
Paul, best of luck on your campaign. You'll have my support. Thanks for another great informative video. Dad talked about many of the same things you just did. He hauled oilfield pipe from Ft Smith to Dallas with an AA. I try to channel him when I drive my Fordor. Sorry I've been away, new job keeping me busy. Be safe, God Bless.
I have always loved Model A's and hoped to acquire one someday. However, life happened and that bird has flown. Now I'm retired and on a fixed income. Vicariously is how I "enjoy" these pieces of art now.
Hi Paul, 50 yes ago I bought my 30 A Tudor. It had a rebuilt engine an trans, then I got dumb an sold it. I acquired a frame 2yrs ago to build a 28-29 P/U., now looking for a cab. May the torque be with you, Terry.😊
Good advice, a kind of a lost skill with so many vehicles being automatic. I ride my motorcycle in a similar way, very rarely ever use the brakes, except in an emergency stop.
You have created a realistic video captioning the real driving experiences from back in the days past. Driving was a learning experiences that you never forget. Your videos are professional and very easy to follow and understand. “But” I am sure Model T had the hardest part of all! Trying to keep you and the camera in line. Great job👍
I'm amazed at your ability to shift - it looks almost as if you drove synchro-mesh. My transmission would very much complain if I tried shifting it that quickly :o
Happy Saturday Paul! the driving techniques you describe are good ones, eaven for a modern car, and a automagic transmission, when my wife drives her car, when she is going down hill its in drive, and overdrive, i reach over and put it in second
Unrelated: I really like that temp gauge. Why guess as the Model A experiences loss of power and eventually emits enough steam to attract one’s attention. Appreciate your efforts in the Model A world.
Paul: I think you will be a GREAT addition to the MAFCA board and I am going to vote for you. In fact depending on the slate of canidtes you my be my only vote. Good video. In our club, Beaver Chapter Portland, Oregon, we will mentor new members and this includes a driving lesson if they want. David Adair
I think more brakes are used because some have a more difficult time down shifting without grinding the gears. My Oakland has the the break shoes on the outside of the drums I learned early on washing it and then driving it down the hill the stop sign was just a suggestion. Hope you get elected to the board your a good ambassador.
Thanks again, Paul. Another great video. Inthe future, maybe you could instruct on "arcing" brake shoes. BTW - what is with the "soggy" transmission? I didn't hear any "crunchiness" inyour shifts!
I plan to make a video about rebuilding brake systems, and will include that for sure! Thanks! Lots of practice. I did a video called "how to shift a Ford Model A" or similar. In that video, I show you how to drive like me. No gear clash.
The reason(s) that Model A enthusiasm versus 'newer' antique cars is less are: these cars from the 20s have engines that run 'dirty' and lack power, the cars themselves are primitively built, only a slight improvement over the Model T - itself a modest improvement over the horse-drawn carriage it replaced, and they are SLOW in their stock trim. Which is what restorers do and collectors want: stock and original as possible. The upside: There aren't many left plus the satisfaction of owning a piece of early automotive history is immeasurable, as I'm sure you can probably attest to, Paul!
I would love to own a Ford model A and keep the hobby alive but I don't know how anyone can afford to buy one unless it's a basket case then you still have a fortune in it and don't get to enjoy driving it for years. Paul is the engine really doing the breaking or is the transmission really providing the drag that is braking ?
Paul, I noticed as you go thru the gearing sequence that there is no gear clash. Is this because you filled the transmission with the correct lube (oil)? Not even any double clutching. Amazing!
I have a lot of experience. See my video on how to shift a Model A. I show you how to drive like this! You only need to double clutch when downshifting. I did that here. I just do it quick.
Model A's do make people happy, every time I drive mine, people smile and wave. I frequently giving rides to interested people and have even let some people drive it (I have a Mitchel syncro trans). I want to put that hook in their mouth and get them interested in owning. Trouble is, they ask to buy mine😅. P.S. You have my vote Paul
A 40-ton tractor trailer becomes a 40-ton runaway train on a long downhill incline if you don't drive it the same way. Spent enough time in the cab that I drive all my vehicles the same way. When full braking is needed, it's always best to have full braking.
Don’t know if the model A is the same as the slightly earlier Cadillac’s but they describe what you’re doing as the correct way of using the brakes in the manual, it specifically tells you in the manual to avoid using brakes (though of course theirs are superior and other road users might not be able to stop in time…)
I sure wish that cast iron drums were available for Model T Fords. I run auxiliary AC brakes on my 1924 and although they help a lot, they would be even better with cast iron drums. :)
Very informative. Still trying to figure out down shift points on mine. It seems like I have to over wind the engine to get it into lower gear. Maybe I'm just not used to it yet.
Not sure. This is the only standard vehicle I ever drove that I couldn't down shift with ease. I can usually shift up & down without even using the clutch on most standards even nonsynchromesh transmissions but this 1 is different. Reasonably sure in time I will master it. I tell everyone, "It isn't a pleasure to drive but it is fun.@@ModelA
Kinda leaning in that direction. Only thing stopping me is, it shifts perfect going up. Or at least it feels like it. I'll delve into it more when I go back to NY in May. She's sleeping for the winter. Treated the gas, ran the carb out, disconnected the battery & put the battery tender on her just before heading to Florida. Thank You & keep those informative videos coming. I learn a little more each time I watch 1. @@ModelA
Sorry to bother ya guys….but, I did watch the video on double clutching aka how to down shift. I cannot get it to work… I could go up through the gears with out touching the clutch petal…waiting for synchronization…but… Q is… I cannot down shift. Is there a possibility that there is a mechanical problem? Or reason? Thanks so much for your time! I inherited my model A from my uncle who passed away. I rode in it with my uncle to the store ONCE when I was a little kid. I’m now 57!
Thanks Paul for all the great videos, I just bought a 31 model A Roadster because of you after I"ve been watching you on youtube. I"m going through the car with the maintenance things that have to be done. Should I install an oil filter setup? And if so which way should I go?
If you plan to drive a lot, then definitely go with an oil filter. Which one depends on what you find. I use them both, see video about doing what's right. I talk about it in that one. Congratulations!
Adjusting the brake rod has been a challenge. I was told to go on a dirt road Then slam on the brakes. Then go back and see which ones grabbed the best then adjust the others
That method will not provide correct braking, and will make your pedal feel stiff like you have no brakes. I did a video on how to adjust Model A brakes. Do a search for that and try that method. You will get maximum braking that way.
Paul 2 years ago on your 'Shocked at mixed brake shoes' video you referred to this type of brake drum with the single rolled rim as Cast Iron! was that an error? Denis in the UK.
Great video, BUT... a lot of brake fade is caused by "off-gassing" whereas the brake material gets so hot that the material that the brake is made of emits fumes. These fumes then get between the "pad" material and the brake surface, and lubricate it. If you want, get a steam iron and run it across the iron board, and notice how easily it glides when you hit that steam button. If you ever noticed holes drilled through brake rotors, or lines carved into them, those aren't for cooling, but rather for that gas to escape, and allow the pad to get into contact with the rotor. Heat is still the enemy here, but what it does is elusive. I doubt if you heated a drum to several hundred degrees, it would expand more than a few thousandths. those ad-on bands probably did more for heat dissipation, than drum expansion. If it were expansion, as it heated up, it would expand as well. But as with any vehicle, let that engine work for you. I've always downshifted a manual. I learned to drive in a VW beetle, now I have an early 28 AR Roadster, thanks to my dad. Planning to return her to original, but keep her on the road. The Model A is an American icon. Never been a Ford guy, but proud to have one. Thanks for the channel!
Speaking of brakes, what is your opinion of the Flat Head Ted braking system. I spoke with Randy Gross and he said not to waste my money and Ford’s original concept works great. Others in my club (whom I very much respect) give them nothing by glowing marks. Does this kind of fit into the “what’s the best oil to use” category?
I agree with Randy. If you build your brakes properly, then floaters in the fronts are a waste of money. If they are worn out or you don't build them properly, then floaters will seem like an improvement. It comes down to doing it right or putting a band aid on a worn out or crummy workmanship job.
When my grandfather taught me how to drive his model a he would always stress the best brake you have in this car is the engine leave it in gear until you stop.
May the torque be with you, lol, would have been even funnier to release that on may 4th but probably would have offended a few Star Wars fans, but another great video, well said information and applied
Hi Paul your toys are impressive, I enjoy your videos every single minute that I have the chance, blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
@@ModelA wow you are amazing, outstanding Paul, most kind of you, muy gentil de tu parte caballero, I wish to have the. Opportunity to meet you in person one day, blessings to you and your love ones, happy father's day, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres
Paul, great video and you have my vote. MAGA…MAKING A’s Great Again! Talking about the clubs, at 62 I’m not the youngest one in the club. Brakes are what I’m working on at this moment with the 400A. MARC National meet in Hamilton Ohio is coming soon.
The reason the hobby is "dieing" is (at least in Australia anyway) is young people being priced out of being able to buy a Model A any more. Sellers asking $30k+ for a $15k car because they just gotta make money. Pisses me off greatly.
Point well taken. Nobody wants to lose money, but greed is alive and well. When MAFCA and MARC start providing restoration services for their members things will change. For example in the T club I belong to we rebuild our own engines, transmissions and other mechanical systems, pennys on the dollar. At least we keep em rolling! Ever wonder where all that money goes? Maybe Paul will help change things. Cheers
With the Model A's rod actuated mechanical shoe drum brakes, there is NO way to prevent SOME brake fade. ANY drum brakes without 1958 Chrysler-type Bendix eccentric "auto adjusters" only used on Imperials (like mine) fade-the Europeans started using them a few year earlier on their sports cars, before switching to disc brakes. It is illegal to sell a CAR or passenger VAN in the US with drum brakes since 1995 as they aren't "anti-lock/system fail " friendly. Today's friction compounds on brake shoes are so much better than available when I was a pump jockey 55 years ago, that helps immensely. Just make certain you cryogenically treat the drums so THEY won't wear thru in 10,000 miles!
You bring up some good points. However, you also need to consider that a Model A weighs half of what a new car does! Half the weight requires half the stopping power (energy conversion). Did not know about that law. How come some new cars are still coming with drum rear brakes then?
If you want to demonstrate that Model A’s have good brakes, go drive a Model T Ford. Now that’s a car with minimal brakes - even when equipped with so-called Rocky Mountain brakes.
While I agree with the driving style portion of the video the mechanical portion was a failure! Drums are only going to expand a few thousands of an inch so that isnt a real issue. The big issue is the extreme heat reduces the effectiveness of friction. No mention in the video of the mechanical condition of the brake system also no mention of shoe glazing from heat. also no mention of rearching the brake shoes to match the specific diameter of drum.
Fair enough. Hey, I have an idea! You should make a video that is helpful to Model A people and upload it to TH-cam, and then I go poop all over it, and see how that makes you feel!
Having many miles of 18 wheeler experience (read: drum brakes!) I can say with certainty that Paul is very much correct in his assertions. Start by adjusting your driving style and approach to these cars. Attention to the Brake condition, Adjustment and proper technique make drum brakes viable even today. Some new cars still have them on the rear. The biggest take away? Drive defensively within the limits of your car, yourself and the rules of the road.
Thanks Paul! Good show!
PS: You have my vote.
Well said!
One thing about drum brakes... If you drive through deep water, you must dry out your brakes. This is a non-issue with discs. Here in Florida during the summer season we get torrential downpours that flood some know areas.
@@williamforbes5826I drive both big rigs and a pre war of my own. My normal truck of the last 7 years doesn't even have an engine brake, yet I never had an issue with brake fade even when going through the Rockies with a full load. Driving a pre-war car is pretty much the exact same as driving a truck. Shifting, braking, cornering, acceleration, and often even lack of visibility, are all very much like driving a big truck.
So, if you ever get in one, drive it like your truck and you'll do fine.
VW is using drums on the rear of their EVs because they have regenerative braking and don't need rear discs, so it saves them money. Personally, every used car with drum brakes I've ever bought had leaking rear brake cylinders. You can't let cars with drum brakes sit for a long time, especially if the brake fluid isn't changed every few years.
I can’t think of a better person to be a director- you’ve got my support
Thank you!
I couldn’t agree more. You also have my support 100%
Thanks Chris!
I agree with the both of you also. Paul has my vote without hesitation!
My dad bought a model A truck back in 83, he let it sit for 37 years, until I inherited it 3 years ago. I never really wanted it because I wanted his 34 5 window at the time. Well I am now on the path of restoring his pick up . I’m learning and having fun doing it. I want to bring it to my local cars and coffee since the oldest thing there now is a mid 50s Buick. I watch your channel for inspiration and how to’s when applicable. Thanks for what you do.
Thank you Eric! Good luck on the pickup!
Paul you and Tina have done more for Model A’s that anyone I could think of.
Thank you for all you do. You are responsible for me buying my second Model A last year after a 40 year absence.
Best regards, Ron
Ah, shucks.. Thanks Ron! Good work buying a backup rig.
Great . I learned in a model A pickup , gradpa tought me , "don't use the brakes ,they are expensive ".. haha working on getting my own now that iam in my late 60s .. love ur show . Hope u win sir . Thanks for ur passion for a wonderful car
Grandpa was right! Good job Chuck.
Excellent on how to drive with original brakes. Every new Model A owner should watch this.
I was told by a fellow at Rochester brake in NY that the bonded or riveted linings of the material you showed go with Iron, woven with steel. Woven and Iron grab to aggressively and can squeal. The other way around, (steel to bonded) not good brakes. I have found this to be true. I put Iron on my car, well worth the investment. Proper adjustment is also super important, as you have said in previous videos.
Paul enjoyed your how to drive a Model-A segment, I call this common sense driving is applicable for all vehicles. Example when you see the light is going to change a block and take your foot off the gas and let the idiots pass you will end up passing them without having to touch the brakes.
Yep!
I grew up driving drum brake cars and trucks, and I learned all the ins and outs of that braking system. When they are adjusted right, there is nothing wrong with drum breaks, you just need to be a well-trained driver like me, lol. You are right about using manual transmissions. You would be amazed at the things I did with my old cars and when motorcycle racing. Good luck guys, Mike
Hey Mike!! I was hoping you would chime in. That art of driving cars with drum brakes is completely lost on new generations. I hope to educate them on what you learned as part of normal driver training back in the day.
@@ModelA The world needs you. Too much of our automotive history is being lost.
1949 Auto Service Postcards - Episode 1 - Kramer-Eberts Pontiac dealer, Detroit cars th-cam.com/video/Y8wBkpk-goI/w-d-xo.html
The Zen of Model A driving. Heard about your campaign at our last meeting. You've got my vote.
Thank you! How did your club hear about it I wonder? Just curious. What was the temperature of the news amongst your club? Support or the opposite?
@@ModelA A current board member belongs to our club in SoCal. Support with many pro comments on your videos
I was a T bird guy for years and got interested in vintage technology and started to look at Model T’s. After seeing your videos. I got a Model A to restore. I appreciate its clever simplicity and the support from the model A people. You have my vote
Thanks Timothy!
Thanks for such an informative and instructional video! When I finally get an A I will for sure re-visit that advice! Showing the different brake drums was instructional too! If I was a member of the MAFCA I would for sure vote for you!
You don’t have to own a Model A to be a member! 😬
You could always join... Just sayin! Thanks!
I had considered joining, but today the website membership page won't work, been having some internet problems today, that might be it.
The "go work on your car" was an extra nice touch. 😊
Though it seems like still years away (my 31 Deluxe Roadster is in 1000 pieces), I'm looking forward to using your tips once she's got some put-put back in her.
Excellent!!
Man what a great demonstration you gave us. I've driven a lot of sticks and I know what it's like to see someone who knows how to drive and brake or slow down a stick, you are awesome. I didn't know about the history of the brake drums either, so I wasn't sure how they got to cast iron drums, but now I do. Thanks Paul for the history and the driving lesson, loved it. I hope everyone has a great weekend and that you and Bob G and the rest of the dad's out there have a fantastic Father's Day.
Thanks Dan! I learned how to drive on manual, that's all I really knew until way into adulthood. Happy Father's day to you, my friend!
@@ModelA Thanks Paul☺
Thanks for an excellent vid Paul! Id like to mention that brake fade is not just limited to brake adjustment and the expansion of the drum, when the organic style shoes reach around 450 deg F they can 'glaze over' which causes friction loss. the reason 'steel' drums are easier to get brake fade is because steel holds on to heat better than cast iron just due to the metallurgical properties of steel vs cast iron. so the same long stop on the same down grade the steel drum will be way hotter and fade way faster than a cast iron drum. If you ever get severe brake fade in your vehicle I highly recommend tearing the brakes down for a complete inspection! the shoes can crystalize and you can lose a lot of your stopping power from just one mistake of severe over heating of the shoes or pads for that matter! If you smell burnt brakes and or they are smoking they need to be inspected! check for 'fire cracked' shoes pads and drum or rotor surfaces. 'bonded' shoes and pads are more easily damaged from over heating vs riveted shoes and pads.
I grew up around big rigs. And found it a pleasure to observe good shifting. (I learned on a 5/4). Watching you takes me back. And really is a pleasure to observe!
Thank you! I have lot of practice
Thank you for another excellent presentation, and helping me along my path of learning. Watching you drive, it’s tough to tell where you stop and the car begins - you are truly one with the vehicle and it shows. Thanks to Model T as well for the video work - you two are awesome! ~ Chuck
Thanks Chuck! Lots of practice!
I can't wait to get into the hobby. Prices are to high to begin. Should have started 10 years ago when I thought about buying my first one
Thank you Paul for doing this video on brake fade! We needed it.
Glad it was helpful Hal!
Great video Paul! I’ve been having a hard time stalling when coming to a complete stop at a stop sign/stop light. I learned a couple new tricks from this video I’m going to try out. Thanks for showing your skills
Paul 4 President 2024
My hope is to become technical director, but thanks!
Really interesting video-not just from a standpoint of how to prevent brake fade, but I see so many antique car driving videos where the driver has no idea how to double clutch and downshift. Well done!
Thank you! Lots of practice.
It’s amazing how much you can avoid the breaks with a little planning.
I (born in '94) just bought a 1930 Model A Sport Coupe. It needs a lot of work, but I look forward to the project. Guess I need to go join up with the MAFCA! I've only ever driven automatic trans cars, so it'll be a learning experience. I love your videos, and wish you luck in the MAFCA elections. Love your channel, keep up the great work!
Thank you! Best of luck to you and your new sport coupe!!
I know you've included it in some earlier videos but this also shows very well how to double-clutch/downshift and at what speed for the 3rd to 2nd shift. I'm still trying to get the hang of it without grinding!
This helped me really understand the engine and transmission of the model A much better. been thinking about buying one in the far future (by far future I mean 5+ years from now most likely) but I wanted to learn about the model A a bit more because I Really love their design and the craftsmanship.
Excellent Glad to help a Model A brother!!
Well said. I learned to drive this way driving dump truck back in the early 80ds A plus.
This was excellent, Paul!
Not sure if I will ever have an "A" but I do love your videos, Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Paul, Excellent, Excellent video. I almost ran my model A in the bushes coming down a steep hill, I have a confidence now. Thank You! You have my Vote *****!
g
Great tutorial for younger people intimidated about owning a Model A. They just have to realize this is REALLY driving ,ie, put the I phone down!!!
Hahaa! Yes, "Hang up and drive!!"
Thank you for this video, I recently went through, and strictly adhered to, the recommended brake adjustment process, and found a big difference in stopping power overall. Prior, my vehicle was using mostly the front bakes.
I've found that driving a pre war car is just like driving a big rig or motorcycle. Slow before you need to, easy through the corners, more room for acceleration, double clutch both up and down shift, and often even lack of clear visibility are all very much like driving a truck.
When I drove my 31 home, it was the first time I ever drove something of that era and I didn't grind a gear once, and didn't use the brake at all except to hold it while stopped.
You are absolutely correct on that, typically, the lack of braking power has nothing to do with drums. They can lock up all 4 wheels just as easily as discs. For a normal car, drums are just as capable.
The problem with drums is heat soak. As the heat builds from use, drums have a much harder time shedding that heat than discs do. This is the main advantage of discs for most people, being able to stop more often before fading occurs.
After seeing the difference between the original steel and later cast iron, I can appreciate why they are so much better. Just that one lip helps a lot to shed heat from the drum.
Good video on the driving, people definitely need that knowledge to run any pre war car safely on today's roads and with modern traffic.
Good work Daniel! Yes, that style of driving that we were taught has been lost. These days, people drive to the performance limits of their jellybean on wheels all the time.
Good info. I pretty much drive all manual transmission cars this way.
I got a little forgetful one day and tried to stop on a yellow light and ended up stopping halfway through the intersection! The cop that was following me was alert and stopped just right so I could back up and didn’t even say a thing to us. I imagine she was laughing some, but she did follow us through town some! Great explanation of brake fade. I’d always heard the term, but never understood, or took the time to understand why it happens.
You got a cool cop that day!
@@ModelA Yep!
Nice video, Paul. Love the ride in the country. For what it's worth, in 1980 a Deluxe Roadster might be had for $12,000.00 to $15,000.00. A rebuilt engine back then was $500.00. Today a Deluxe Roadster might bring $20,000.00 to maybe $25,000.00 but what happened to the engine? 10 times even 20 times the price of 1980. That is a problem. Our country's greatest re-source is our youth but they had better be quite affluent to play in this sandbox.
That goes for pretty much any car related hobby these days. Back when, labor was cheap and technology was expensive. Today, it is the other way around.
This was great, from beginning to end! Thank you! I appreciate the deep dive into a subject that doesn't normally get that level of attention. Also, the VGG advise to get to work was needed.
I am waiting on my packet now joined last week. You'll have my vote for what ever you Run for! This club needs your knowledge. And thank you for stepping up Paul and I'm sure Model T will be in there some where what a great team.
Much appreciated!
Another great video Paul! Glad to hear you are running for a spot on the MAFCA board!! You certainly have my vote!! I’ll keep an eye out for my next Restorer magazine.
Thank you!
Great video as always, Paul and Congratulations on almost 41,000 subscribers! I’m proud to be one of them.
You’re absolutely right about the braking and using the engine to help slow you down. My daily driver is a 2013 Chevy Cruze with a six speed manual transmission. I bought this car new. This car has 194k miles on it and I have never done any work on the brakes. This is because I apply all the techniques you described. Everything you talked about is relevant on modern cars, trucks and tractors, which is how I learned about it in the first place.
Yes!!! Thanks Matt
Dear Paul
I'm first time watching your video. I really appreciate your work. You have explained and demonstrated greatly. Believe me I'm also heavy driver here & driving is my passion.Your driving style has made me to feel that I am listening the beautiful conversation between two true lovers. 🤵❤🚗
Love from Dubai 🇦🇪.
Thank you very much!
@@ModelA my pleasure 😊
Great pointers that not only work on Model As but on any other manual transmission vehicle. That’s exactly how I learned stick shift back in the day. Almost a lost art now. Love that ending! Just like Ferris Bueller’s Day Off….🤣😩
Paul, thanks again for a great video. One of the issues I see with newbs (and some experienced drivers) is they don't understand the sequence of downshifting or how the transmission works. That in turn makes it difficult to "row" the gearbox. Keep up the good work.
Paul, best of luck on your campaign. You'll have my support.
Thanks for another great informative video. Dad talked about many of the same things you just did. He hauled oilfield pipe from Ft Smith to Dallas with an AA. I try to channel him when I drive my Fordor.
Sorry I've been away, new job keeping me busy.
Be safe, God Bless.
Awesome, thank you!
I have always loved Model A's and hoped to acquire one someday. However, life happened and that bird has flown. Now I'm retired and on a fixed income. Vicariously is how I "enjoy" these pieces of art now.
Hi Paul, 50 yes ago I bought my 30 A Tudor. It had a rebuilt engine an trans, then I got dumb an sold it. I acquired a frame 2yrs ago to build a 28-29 P/U., now looking for a cab. May the torque be with you, Terry.😊
Good luck Terry! And happy father's day!
Best Model A channel on youtube.
Thank you!
You've got my vote sir! Thank you for the amazing youtube content.
Much appreciated!
Thanx again for a good video Paul and Model T!! Good luck on your quest to be on the MAFCA board!!
Thank you!
Good advice, a kind of a lost skill with so many vehicles being automatic. I ride my motorcycle in a similar way, very rarely ever use the brakes, except in an emergency stop.
You have created a realistic video captioning the real driving experiences from back in the days past. Driving was a learning experiences that you never forget. Your videos are professional and very easy to follow and understand. “But” I am sure Model T had the hardest part of all! Trying to keep you and the camera in line. Great job👍
She has it made. I'm so fat that the camera gets a piece of me no matter what!
I'm amazed at your ability to shift - it looks almost as if you drove synchro-mesh.
My transmission would very much complain if I tried shifting it that quickly :o
My transmission is really tight (fresh rebuild). I run thick oil in it for break-in right now. Makes it easy!
Happy Saturday Paul! the driving techniques you describe are good ones, eaven for a modern car, and a automagic transmission, when my wife drives her car, when she is going down hill its in drive, and overdrive, i reach over and put it in second
I do that to Tina also! Hahaaa!!
Unrelated: I really like that temp gauge. Why guess as the Model A experiences loss of power and eventually emits enough steam to attract one’s attention. Appreciate your efforts in the Model A world.
That was one of those cheapo (but made in USA) guages that used to be in all the catalogs. Money well spent.
Paul:
I think you will be a GREAT addition to the MAFCA board and I am going to vote for you. In fact depending on the slate of canidtes you my be my only vote. Good video. In our club, Beaver Chapter Portland, Oregon, we will mentor new members and this includes a driving lesson if they want. David Adair
Cool, thanks David!
I think more brakes are used because some have a more difficult time down shifting without grinding the gears. My Oakland has the the break shoes on the outside of the drums I learned early on washing it and then driving it down the hill the stop sign was just a suggestion. Hope you get elected to the board your a good ambassador.
Thank you! Maybe it does come down to learning to handle the gearbox better.
Thanks again, Paul. Another great video. Inthe future, maybe you could instruct on "arcing" brake shoes.
BTW - what is with the "soggy" transmission? I didn't hear any "crunchiness" inyour shifts!
I plan to make a video about rebuilding brake systems, and will include that for sure!
Thanks! Lots of practice. I did a video called "how to shift a Ford Model A" or similar. In that video, I show you how to drive like me. No gear clash.
You have my vote Paul
Thank you!
I need to practice that braking with my 34. It should be the same, right?
The reason(s) that Model A enthusiasm versus 'newer' antique cars is less are: these cars from the 20s have engines that run 'dirty' and lack power, the cars themselves are primitively built, only a slight improvement over the Model T - itself a modest improvement over the horse-drawn carriage it replaced, and they are SLOW in their stock trim. Which is what restorers do and collectors want: stock and original as possible. The upside: There aren't many left plus the satisfaction of owning a piece of early automotive history is immeasurable, as I'm sure you can probably attest to, Paul!
A lot of the things you mention are more prejudices and believes people hold than actual fact....
Yea, but no. Have you ever driven a well maintained Model A? It appears not. Everything you mention is false.
@DrTheRich You're right!
Hi Paul. Thanks for the video. You have my vote!
Thank you!
I would love to own a Ford model A and keep the hobby alive but I don't know how anyone can afford to buy one unless it's a basket case then you still have a fortune in it and don't get to enjoy driving it for years.
Paul is the engine really doing the breaking or is the transmission really providing the drag that is braking ?
The engine
I think you'd be good on there I'm about to put my vote in
Thank you!
@@ModelA you're very welcome
Great video Paul. Does your car have a synchronized transmission? What are your thoughts about them?
I wish. I am going to install a Mitchell synchro trans in Tina's roadster soon.
Paul, I noticed as you go thru the gearing sequence that there is no gear clash. Is this because you filled the transmission with the correct lube (oil)? Not even any double clutching. Amazing!
I have a lot of experience. See my video on how to shift a Model A. I show you how to drive like this! You only need to double clutch when downshifting. I did that here. I just do it quick.
Model A's do make people happy, every time I drive mine, people smile and wave. I frequently giving rides to interested people and have even let some people drive it (I have a Mitchel syncro trans). I want to put that hook in their mouth and get them interested in owning. Trouble is, they ask to buy mine😅.
P.S.
You have my vote Paul
A 40-ton tractor trailer becomes a 40-ton runaway train on a long downhill incline if you don't drive it the same way. Spent enough time in the cab that I drive all my vehicles the same way. When full braking is needed, it's always best to have full braking.
Don’t know if the model A is the same as the slightly earlier Cadillac’s but they describe what you’re doing as the correct way of using the brakes in the manual, it specifically tells you in the manual to avoid using brakes (though of course theirs are superior and other road users might not be able to stop in time…)
Someday it will
I sure wish that cast iron drums were available for Model T Fords. I run auxiliary AC brakes on my 1924 and although they help a lot, they would be even better with cast iron drums. :)
I believe they are. I seen some advertised online a while back.
fantastic video, thanks Paul.
Thank YOU, Andy!
Very informative. Still trying to figure out down shift points on mine. It seems like I have to over wind the engine to get it into lower gear. Maybe I'm just not used to it yet.
Maybe you're revving too high? Or, your idle is too high?
Not sure. This is the only standard vehicle I ever drove that I couldn't down shift with ease. I can usually shift up & down without even using the clutch on most standards even nonsynchromesh transmissions but this 1 is different. Reasonably sure in time I will master it. I tell everyone, "It isn't a pleasure to drive but it is fun.@@ModelA
I'm curious if your gears or shift forks might be worn
Kinda leaning in that direction. Only thing stopping me is, it shifts perfect going up. Or at least it feels like it. I'll delve into it more when I go back to NY in May. She's sleeping for the winter. Treated the gas, ran the carb out, disconnected the battery & put the battery tender on her just before heading to Florida. Thank You & keep those informative videos coming. I learn a little more each time I watch 1.
@@ModelA
Sorry to bother ya guys….but, I did watch the video on double clutching aka how to down shift. I cannot get it to work… I could go up through the gears with out touching the clutch petal…waiting for synchronization…but… Q is… I cannot down shift. Is there a possibility that there is a mechanical problem? Or reason? Thanks so much for your time! I inherited my model A from my uncle who passed away. I rode in it with my uncle to the store ONCE when I was a little kid. I’m now 57!
Paul and model T happy Dads Day !
Happy father's day to you!
Thanks Paul for all the great videos, I just bought a 31 model A Roadster because of you after I"ve been watching you on youtube. I"m going through the car with the maintenance things that have to be done. Should I install an oil filter setup? And if so which way should I go?
If you plan to drive a lot, then definitely go with an oil filter. Which one depends on what you find. I use them both, see video about doing what's right. I talk about it in that one. Congratulations!
Adjusting the brake rod has been a challenge. I was told to go on a dirt road Then slam on the brakes. Then go back and see which ones grabbed the best then adjust the others
That method will not provide correct braking, and will make your pedal feel stiff like you have no brakes. I did a video on how to adjust Model A brakes. Do a search for that and try that method. You will get maximum braking that way.
Great video Paul. Sorry i can't vote for you. Kind regards from Belgium. Filip
You get a pass! Thanks!
Paul another great video, Curious where is the gas pedal in car, is it the little button right of the brake pedal , thks
Little circle
Paul, I noticed that you mention RPM control during driving and braking. You have an accessory temperature gauge but why not a tachometer? Lloyd
My ears are my tachometer
I see your feet model T lol good job kids lol love you guys teaching us old school stuff lol 😊❤😊
Wau good job bro... We like your work..
Thank you so much!
Paul 2 years ago on your 'Shocked at mixed brake shoes' video you referred to this type of brake drum with the single rolled rim as Cast Iron! was that an error? Denis in the UK.
Probably. I'm not perfect
Another good one
Thanks again!
Randy Gross always says, go down the hill in the same gear you went up the hill in.
Randy is smart!
Great video, BUT... a lot of brake fade is caused by "off-gassing" whereas the brake material gets so hot that the material that the brake is made of emits fumes. These fumes then get between the "pad" material and the brake surface, and lubricate it. If you want, get a steam iron and run it across the iron board, and notice how easily it glides when you hit that steam button.
If you ever noticed holes drilled through brake rotors, or lines carved into them, those aren't for cooling, but rather for that gas to escape, and allow the pad to get into contact with the rotor. Heat is still the enemy here, but what it does is elusive. I doubt if you heated a drum to several hundred degrees, it would expand more than a few thousandths. those ad-on bands probably did more for heat dissipation, than drum expansion. If it were expansion, as it heated up, it would expand as well.
But as with any vehicle, let that engine work for you. I've always downshifted a manual.
I learned to drive in a VW beetle, now I have an early 28 AR Roadster, thanks to my dad. Planning to return her to original, but keep her on the road. The Model A is an American icon. Never been a Ford guy, but proud to have one.
Thanks for the channel!
Science!
Speaking of brakes, what is your opinion of the Flat Head Ted braking system. I spoke with Randy Gross and he said not to waste my money and Ford’s original concept works great. Others in my club (whom I very much respect) give them nothing by glowing marks. Does this kind of fit into the “what’s the best oil to use” category?
I agree with Randy. If you build your brakes properly, then floaters in the fronts are a waste of money. If they are worn out or you don't build them properly, then floaters will seem like an improvement. It comes down to doing it right or putting a band aid on a worn out or crummy workmanship job.
When my grandfather taught me how to drive his model a he would always stress the best brake you have in this car is the engine leave it in gear until you stop.
He was right!
May the torque be with you, lol, would have been even funnier to release that on may 4th but probably would have offended a few Star Wars fans, but another great video, well said information and applied
I don't care if a snowflake gets offended, I'm with you man, I wish I had thought of it on May 4th also!
3:27 gears turn your 45 mph A to 52 mph cruiser.
Unless you live in hill country, then 3:27 gear turns your 45/50 MPH cruiser into a 30 MPH cruiser because it can't pull up hills in 3rd gear anymore.
Nice video
Thanks
Vote Shinn
Please!
I cant seem to get a clean downshift unless I'm doing 10mph is there a trick to downshifting at higher speeds?
Find my video called how to shift a Ford Model A. It will explain how to shift like a pro.
@@ModelA alright will do thank you!
Both me and my wife drive this way in our modern car ( coasting when we see a red light), and our brakes last a lot longer?
It works for modern cars too
Does that car have a fully synchronized transmission?
Hi Paul your toys are impressive, I enjoy your videos every single minute that I have the chance, blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
¡Gracias Jesús! Es un placer saber que mis videos son útiles para alguien tan agradable como tú.
@@ModelA wow you are amazing, outstanding Paul, most kind of you, muy gentil de tu parte caballero, I wish to have the. Opportunity to meet you in person one day, blessings to you and your love ones, happy father's day, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres
Ps. Got my vote.
Thank you!
Paul, great video and you have my vote. MAGA…MAKING A’s Great Again! Talking about the clubs, at 62 I’m not the youngest one in the club. Brakes are what I’m working on at this moment with the 400A. MARC National meet in Hamilton Ohio is coming soon.
MAGA indeed!! I like that Making A's Great Again!!
The reason the hobby is "dieing" is (at least in Australia anyway) is young people being priced out of being able to buy a Model A any more. Sellers asking $30k+ for a $15k car because they just gotta make money. Pisses me off greatly.
That is a problem. What is the solution? I don't know.
Point well taken. Nobody wants to lose money, but greed is alive and well. When MAFCA and MARC start providing restoration services for their members things will change. For example in the T club I belong to we rebuild our own engines, transmissions and other mechanical systems, pennys on the dollar. At least we keep em rolling! Ever wonder where all that money goes? Maybe Paul will help change things. Cheers
With the Model A's rod actuated mechanical shoe drum brakes, there is NO way to prevent SOME brake fade. ANY drum brakes without 1958 Chrysler-type Bendix eccentric "auto adjusters" only used on Imperials (like mine) fade-the Europeans started using them a few year earlier on their sports cars, before switching to disc brakes. It is illegal to sell a CAR or passenger VAN in the US with drum brakes since 1995 as they aren't "anti-lock/system fail " friendly. Today's friction compounds on brake shoes are so much better than available when I was a pump jockey 55 years ago, that helps immensely. Just make certain you cryogenically treat the drums so THEY won't wear thru in 10,000 miles!
You bring up some good points. However, you also need to consider that a Model A weighs half of what a new car does! Half the weight requires half the stopping power (energy conversion). Did not know about that law. How come some new cars are still coming with drum rear brakes then?
If you want to demonstrate that Model A’s have good brakes, go drive a Model T Ford. Now that’s a car with minimal brakes - even when equipped with so-called Rocky Mountain brakes.
Been there/Done that. Yep!
I just opened my July/August magazine, I didn’t find a voting ballot in it.
Odd... I'mma gonna ask Sandra.
I just recently learned that the ballots will instead be coming out in the September/October issue of The Restorer. Thank you!!
While I agree with the driving style portion of the video the mechanical portion was a failure! Drums are only going to expand a few thousands of an inch so that isnt a real issue. The big issue is the extreme heat reduces the effectiveness of friction. No mention in the video of the mechanical condition of the brake system also no mention of shoe glazing from heat. also no mention of rearching the brake shoes to match the specific diameter of drum.
Fair enough. Hey, I have an idea! You should make a video that is helpful to Model A people and upload it to TH-cam, and then I go poop all over it, and see how that makes you feel!