I'am 69 Years Old and had 2 Model A's back in the 60's. A31 Closed Cab Pick Up, and a 1930 Deluxe Coupe. The Truck got Traded by my Dad for Body Work On my Brother's 63 Plymouth, and the Coupe I drove for 29000 Miles, (Sold to Alphie Gearhardt in Los Gatos California a Long time ago) Built my own Engine for it with An OLD TIMER Named "SCOTTY" We Lived on the Same Street, that I work with for 10 Years till his Death (Very Sad Day For Me) back then, he was Like a Grandpa to me. "EVERYONE" Had there Engine's Built by us back then, Doctor A Pete Taormino, Ron Dunn, Dave Sorich, Lee Sherman, Everyone... We Built a Really GREAT Engine, SCOTTY Had some things he did for the Oiling of the Connecting Rods, and Main Bearings, that we Thought made the Rear Main Bearing Less Likely to have the Famous Leak it was known for. And we a Hand Made Machine that he built back in the 1930's to "CUT" the Groves in the Connecting Rods. It was So Much Nicer done and Looked PERFECT when it was cut. I did it ALL With Scotty. And Pete Just Loved My Wife Back in the Day, we were Married at age 16 in 1971, and I made Many Trips out to Allen Ave back then for Part's to Build the Engines with. COST For A Complete Short Block was $169.00. Balanced, $189.00. When Scotty Passed away, the Last Price I remember was $229.00. Greta Video, However, I personally would have Cleaned All the areas / Parts and applied New Lubrication to it all. That's just me tho. Nice Garage too, Wish I had that Kind of Room to Work. God Bless the FORD MODEL "A"!!
Thanks Ken sounds like you have some great friends and memories As for lubricant dry lubricant would probably be ok but oil and grease only attracts dust and gums things up, just my opinion
Nice video, Randal, I will be watching all that you publish. I've recently replaced the front spindle bolts and their bushings. I'm recalling that a single felt dust washer installs above the backing plate at the bottom of the spindle bolt???
Jeremy,you could probably leave the wedge in but I wanted to check the top brake adjusting shafts for wear, the brakes were way out of adjustment before ,so I didn't drive before installing floaters Thanks
I think his help applies brake’s. These only help center shoes in drum
Using the small pipe wrench to pop the shoes on is a great tip.
Thanks
How do you compare these to Flat Head Ted’s floaters? He removes the top spring in his application. I hear various opinions.
I'am 69 Years Old and had 2 Model A's back in the 60's. A31 Closed Cab Pick Up, and a 1930 Deluxe Coupe. The Truck got Traded by my Dad for Body Work On my Brother's 63 Plymouth, and the Coupe I drove for 29000 Miles, (Sold to Alphie Gearhardt in Los Gatos California a Long time ago) Built my own Engine for it with An OLD TIMER Named "SCOTTY" We Lived on the Same Street, that I work with for 10 Years till his Death (Very Sad Day For Me) back then, he was Like a Grandpa to me. "EVERYONE" Had there Engine's Built by us back then, Doctor A Pete Taormino, Ron Dunn, Dave Sorich, Lee Sherman, Everyone... We Built a Really GREAT Engine, SCOTTY Had some things he did for the Oiling of the Connecting Rods, and Main Bearings, that we Thought made the Rear Main Bearing Less Likely to have the Famous Leak it was known for. And we a Hand Made Machine that he built back in the 1930's to "CUT" the Groves in the Connecting Rods. It was So Much Nicer done and Looked PERFECT when it was cut. I did it ALL With Scotty. And Pete Just Loved My Wife Back in the Day, we were Married at age 16 in 1971, and I made Many Trips out to Allen Ave back then for Part's to Build the Engines with. COST For A Complete Short Block was $169.00. Balanced, $189.00. When Scotty Passed away, the Last Price I remember was $229.00. Greta Video, However, I personally would have Cleaned All the areas / Parts and applied New Lubrication to it all. That's just me tho. Nice Garage too, Wish I had that Kind of Room to Work. God Bless the FORD MODEL "A"!!
Thanks Ken sounds like you have some great friends and memories
As for lubricant dry lubricant would probably be ok but oil and grease only attracts dust and gums things up, just my opinion
With the greatest respect improving the sound quality of your video would be helpful. All the best from 🇳🇿
Working on it
Thank You, Great video, I am learning and learning, again Thanks!
Glad it helped
Nice video, Randal, I will be watching all that you publish. I've recently replaced the front spindle bolts and their bushings. I'm recalling that a single felt dust washer installs above the backing plate at the bottom of the spindle bolt???
Yes you are right, really don’t know why someone put these above wedge, I didn’t remove because it won’t bother anything
Thank you
Thanks for the tutorial.
you're welcome glad you liked
Thank you very much Randall for uploading this video which is very helpful to me. An affectionate greeting from Spain.
Glad it’s helpful for you thanks for watching
Great video! You don’t actually have to take the wedges out, right? And did you test drive it to see if it made a difference? Thanks!
Jeremy,you could probably leave the wedge in but I wanted to check the top brake adjusting shafts for wear, the brakes were way out of adjustment before ,so I didn't drive before installing floaters Thanks
This is a great modification for better brake operation that does not detract from originallity. I like it! Thanks for the tip and the 'how to' video.
you're welcome
Thanks, very clear and well explained! Well appreciated!🤝👍🏼
Thanks Myron
Do you put floaters on the rear too?
The rear already has a floating pin that goes through the brake actuator
great video, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed
Short and sweet!
Thank you