This is really helpful to have lots of concrete details for the dye on different woods and with different sanding grits, etc. I have some of your dyes that I tried out on a piece of ash, only to realize my sample of ash is some other wood, instead. But your colors look nice and bright. Looking forward to more experimentation with other woods.
What an excellent demo video, love it! I've always been a slave of over the counter Varathane oil based stains available at big box stores, and bemoaned the lack of bright colors but no more! These are amazing colors! I work a lot with wood. Here is a tip: Use an angle grinder (Bosch 5" $119 on Amazon) and a crimped wire cup brush ($5 at Harbor Freight) to texturize wood fast. Works best on pine, redwood, cedar, but not oak or hardwoods. Gives you textural depth. After that a light toasting with a propane torch ($40 Home Depot - get the auto ignition version) gives the dark contrast. Looks authentic. Don't spray Polyurethane, ever. It creates mini air bubbles on surface and feels grainy to the touch. Dilute your oil based clear satin poly with mineral spirits in a second jar, and stir well, then apply 2-3 coats with any cheap brush. Should go on very thin and absorb into the wood deeply. Wipe excess off with paper towels before it gets tacky. This takes care of bubbles on surface and drips, and also makes wood look hand rubbed, not like cheap furniture. Sand lightly between coats -raised grain issue gone, bubbles gone, dust gone. Finish off with a wax polish. If you use high gloss poly like on your projects, and you want the shiny resin finish look, then don't wipe off. I wonder if a heat gun or blow dryer would take care of the bubbles? Your project samples look fantastic! Love the clear colors. I think Keda dyes are in my future project for many years. Question - Have you or anyone else out there, found a way to make oil based stains from these Keda pigments? That would solve the raised grain issue. I have held back from water based stains solely due to the raised grain when wood is wet. Not sure how it will affect my project. I need a formula for an oil base stain which can now be tinted to custom colors. FYI - 'Cedar being a little bit darker OF A WOOD' is not correct English. Try - 'Cedar being a darker wood' is correct and better style.
My yellow dye is coming in today and I'm so excited about doing a douglas fir/ syp joined faceplate on my speakerbox. That yellow on the fir n pine looks AWESOME. Love channel and instructions, it's like being with my old shop teacher. Very well done sir A+ product and channel.
@@KedaWoodDye 💯 what would be your best recommendation to mix the alcohol dye with for a sugi ban finish? I've got some mineral spirits here already, anything seem to work better than others for this? Thanks again, amazing colors!
@johnnycorn7225 for the powders, mixing the powder to a splash of water then adding say 91% isopropyl alcohol seems to work the best for me. Especially with the yellow powder dyes 👍
@@KedaWoodDye I want to try the powders next I just got the alcohol based in just now😀 I've got some mineral spirits and 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol would that work or should it be denatured alcohol or laquer thinner just want to make sure I'm doing it right thank you again!!!!
@johnnycorn7225 oh sorry about that. I misunderstood. Yes the liquid dyes love denatured, or wood alcohol, lacquer thinner, or acetone. I personally like lacquer thinner, but that is because I have more of it for thinning lacquer lol. Any of those 3 work stellar though 😉
I think what they mean by True yellow is the Pantone name Pantone 803 Example Caution Yellow, True yellow, Burt Yellow, Banana Yellow. Lemon Yellow in this case Just yellow base marker. Been looking at Keda dyes your video has put me over the tipping point with Transtint, thinks its time to try Keda.
No green? Does this also work if you dissolve it in polyurethane itself? I'm looking for something to color polyurethane and put that as a transparent color over a guitar body. thx
im assuming the colors can be mixed to create desired hues - yellow and blue should make green, yellow and red should make orange, etc. im looking into the 5 color kit to use to try to create a tigers eye finish on a guitar - i have no clue if it can be mixed directly into finish though.
I would not tint poly directly. With everything you do, especially technical stuff like staining, you want control over the color shade. You don't get that if you mix it in. Stain separately first. There are dyes like Transol can be mixed directly to Polyurethane, Varnish, etc. Do not mix with water or water based poly. You can also mix with alcohol. More toxic than Keda dyes. Amazon: www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Powdered-Solvent-Color/dp/B07LCY5VBV I believe Keda Dyes have to be mixed with water first, then isopropyl alcohol (denatured alcohol is no longer available in CA) for direct wood application. You can mix Keda dyes with water based poly, but not oil based poly. Keda comes in jewel colors that include green. This demo was for yellow only.
I have enjoyed watching your videos. They have helped me with several projects that I do. Just wondering if you could give some advice on mixing a maroon color. I tried purple but I need a maroon color like the Texas A&M color. I was thinking about starting with the red base and mixing with brown dye. Do you have any thoughts?
What’s the best way / measurement to get an amber like finish that’s not too orange? The colour I’m trying to achieve would be the amber colour of Slashs AFD guitar? What’s the best way to get that colour?
Hi, thanks for your videos! I'm using the water soluble dye powder,and my question is- where can I get a water based poly or sealer spray can? From what I'm reading, using an oil based spray lacquer would be a no-no.
Honestly, I would recommend the amber yellow liquid dye for that type of task. 💛 Will not disappoint ;) Liquid dyes are more traditional type of finish, and will mix with any non oil based wood sealer ❤️🤍💙
I have dye stains that are over 2 years old already that i still use after they have been mixed. Every once in awhile I will toss some fresh wood dyes in just to add a little freshener. They should last quite a long time even after mixing, but are strongest in the first week, after that is probably around 90% strength which is still quite color potent. Thank you for watching 👍🏻
Awesome video man. This is my first time using this product. My question is what do you recommend mixing the dye with to get the most color pop? Water, alcohol etc? And what exactly did you use for your finish coat to give it that awesome shine? Thanks bro!
If you use the powder, then I found that water is the only thing that it will properly dissolve in. If you want to use something that dries quicker, like acetone or alcohol, then use the bottled version.
Keda mixes with water or alcohol. Acetone is very toxic to breathe and evaporates in seconds, don't use it. Alcohol will dry fast and not raise wood grain much.
Good to see you back with your dyes and stains. Your hiatus has coincided with my lack of progress with my guitar finishing. Like you, I have limited space to work, especially in cold weather. I am curious; is Keda dye your product, or just your preferred product for your uses? You sure have mastered it! Always enjoy your videos.
Sorry for the delayed reply! I didnt see this come through sigh. I did not use any pre stain on any of my videos yet. I have not gotten to that point yet. Now with that said, it really can depend on the wood, the color, the wood prep, and honestly, the wood coloring agent. As mentioned, I have not used any wood conditioners, so no it really is not needed. The pre stain can make the wood more uniform, but also reduces the coloring power of the wood dye. Typically, just a good ol sanding is all you really need. Hey thank you for watching :)
Hay have you ever stained Bass wood with the keda dye, and how would you recommend doing it. On a Bass wood veneer, would you still sand with 180 grit? Would there be any other prep work before staining?
Thank you :) I just used polyurethane over the yellow. I like the oil based over yellow personally. Ages well ;) As for mixing, is pretty much the same with water or iso alcohol, but again, personally, I like adding the powders to a splash of water then adding rubbing alcohol, but I get iso by the gallon from a family member for next to nothing ;) Thank you again 👍🏻
Can I ask a question? I ordered yellow and blue from Keda. (Liquid) I was just getting ready to dye my bench an aquamarine. But I practiced on some pine, and the stain was so light. Also I dabbed on just yellow. It didn’t look yellow to me at all. Then I noticed the bottle, it said Amber Yellow. I’m so bummed. Is that the same color you use to make aquamarine? Please help! Thanxs!
I think you mean this color? Everyone has different names for certain colors...sorry. May want to dilute the yellow a little more. Is very strong color. Here is a video that may help though: th-cam.com/video/3cOhgYoZLRI/w-d-xo.html
@@oddone1316 Same here, Walmart sells it cheap btw. Rit makes one named race red worked great on that blood red color of the old russian sets of years past, I even did a mosin with it looks graet.
@@oddone1316 Use the spar polly btw it works much better than the cheaper minwax polly, I used clear glooss spar polly then the satin as last coat helps with the amber coloring problem polly can give with many coats.
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I admire a man that puts his family first
This is really helpful to have lots of concrete details for the dye on different woods and with different sanding grits, etc.
I have some of your dyes that I tried out on a piece of ash, only to realize my sample of ash is some other wood, instead. But your colors look nice and bright. Looking forward to more experimentation with other woods.
Thank you! Happy I could help out 👍
That maple looks incredible!
What an excellent demo video, love it! I've always been a slave of over the counter Varathane oil based stains available at big box stores, and bemoaned the lack of bright colors but no more! These are amazing colors!
I work a lot with wood. Here is a tip: Use an angle grinder (Bosch 5" $119 on Amazon) and a crimped wire cup brush ($5 at Harbor Freight) to texturize wood fast. Works best on pine, redwood, cedar, but not oak or hardwoods. Gives you textural depth. After that a light toasting with a propane torch ($40 Home Depot - get the auto ignition version) gives the dark contrast. Looks authentic.
Don't spray Polyurethane, ever. It creates mini air bubbles on surface and feels grainy to the touch. Dilute your oil based clear satin poly with mineral spirits in a second jar, and stir well, then apply 2-3 coats with any cheap brush. Should go on very thin and absorb into the wood deeply. Wipe excess off with paper towels before it gets tacky. This takes care of bubbles on surface and drips, and also makes wood look hand rubbed, not like cheap furniture. Sand lightly between coats -raised grain issue gone, bubbles gone, dust gone. Finish off with a wax polish. If you use high gloss poly like on your projects, and you want the shiny resin finish look, then don't wipe off. I wonder if a heat gun or blow dryer would take care of the bubbles?
Your project samples look fantastic! Love the clear colors. I think Keda dyes are in my future project for many years.
Question - Have you or anyone else out there, found a way to make oil based stains from these Keda pigments? That would solve the raised grain issue. I have held back from water based stains solely due to the raised grain when wood is wet. Not sure how it will affect my project. I need a formula for an oil base stain which can now be tinted to custom colors.
FYI - 'Cedar being a little bit darker OF A WOOD' is not correct English.
Try - 'Cedar being a darker wood' is correct and better style.
My yellow dye is coming in today and I'm so excited about doing a douglas fir/ syp joined faceplate on my speakerbox. That yellow on the fir n pine looks AWESOME. Love channel and instructions, it's like being with my old shop teacher.
Very well done sir A+ product and channel.
That is so good to hear 👍 Thank you for that as well as for watching!
@@KedaWoodDye 💯 what would be your best recommendation to mix the alcohol dye with for a sugi ban finish? I've got some mineral spirits here already, anything seem to work better than others for this? Thanks again, amazing colors!
@johnnycorn7225 for the powders, mixing the powder to a splash of water then adding say 91% isopropyl alcohol seems to work the best for me. Especially with the yellow powder dyes 👍
@@KedaWoodDye I want to try the powders next I just got the alcohol based in just now😀 I've got some mineral spirits and 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol would that work or should it be denatured alcohol or laquer thinner just want to make sure I'm doing it right thank you again!!!!
@johnnycorn7225 oh sorry about that. I misunderstood. Yes the liquid dyes love denatured, or wood alcohol, lacquer thinner, or acetone. I personally like lacquer thinner, but that is because I have more of it for thinning lacquer lol. Any of those 3 work stellar though 😉
I never get tired of curly maple.😁
Thanks for doing this video - very helpful - going to do some keda yellow myself here soon so this helps a lot! Love that curly maple!
Is the stain just water and the powder or should I add rubbing alcohol?
The Maple is the best looking piece.
I think what they mean by True yellow is the Pantone name Pantone 803 Example Caution Yellow, True yellow, Burt Yellow, Banana Yellow. Lemon Yellow in this case Just yellow base marker. Been looking at Keda dyes your video has put me over the tipping point with Transtint, thinks its time to try Keda.
No green? Does this also work if you dissolve it in polyurethane itself? I'm looking for something to color polyurethane and put that as a transparent color over a guitar body. thx
im assuming the colors can be mixed to create desired hues - yellow and blue should make green, yellow and red should make orange, etc. im looking into the 5 color kit to use to try to create a tigers eye finish on a guitar - i have no clue if it can be mixed directly into finish though.
I would not tint poly directly. With everything you do, especially technical stuff like staining, you want control over the color shade. You don't get that if you mix it in. Stain separately first.
There are dyes like Transol can be mixed directly to Polyurethane, Varnish, etc. Do not mix with water or water based poly. You can also mix with alcohol. More toxic than Keda dyes.
Amazon: www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Powdered-Solvent-Color/dp/B07LCY5VBV
I believe Keda Dyes have to be mixed with water first, then isopropyl alcohol (denatured alcohol is no longer available in CA) for direct wood application. You can mix Keda dyes with water based poly, but not oil based poly. Keda comes in jewel colors that include green. This demo was for yellow only.
Just use artist oil paint and oil polyurethane! Works awesome!
I have enjoyed watching your videos. They have helped me with several projects that I do. Just wondering if you could give some advice on mixing a maroon color. I tried purple but I need a maroon color like the Texas A&M color. I was thinking about starting with the red base and mixing with brown dye. Do you have any thoughts?
What’s the best way / measurement to get an amber like finish that’s not too orange? The colour I’m trying to achieve would be the amber colour of Slashs AFD guitar? What’s the best way to get that colour?
Hi, thanks for your videos! I'm using the water soluble dye powder,and my question is- where can I get a water based poly or sealer spray can? From what I'm reading, using an oil based spray lacquer would be a no-no.
If I do yellow polish and apply brown polish on top coat how will it looks please show me thank you
What about mixing dyes with shellac? Like an yellow dye with an amber shellac?
Honestly, I would recommend the amber yellow liquid dye for that type of task. 💛 Will not disappoint ;) Liquid dyes are more traditional type of finish, and will mix with any non oil based wood sealer ❤️🤍💙
@@KedaWoodDye What if I'm trying to achieve a "golden pine" look on European beech?
Why wouldn’t someone like maple. lol. It’s the nicest wood
Thank you for watching! Always an honor that a super small, hand made operation like mine can help. 😉
Would you shellac to the wood to keep the colour the same i.e. sides.
Hi sir. I was wondering what the shelf life is on these once its mixed? Put in an airtight container. Thank you.
I have dye stains that are over 2 years old already that i still use after they have been mixed. Every once in awhile I will toss some fresh wood dyes in just to add a little freshener. They should last quite a long time even after mixing, but are strongest in the first week, after that is probably around 90% strength which is still quite color potent. Thank you for watching 👍🏻
Awesome video man. This is my first time using this product. My question is what do you recommend mixing the dye with to get the most color pop? Water, alcohol etc? And what exactly did you use for your finish coat to give it that awesome shine? Thanks bro!
If you use the powder, then I found that water is the only thing that it will properly dissolve in. If you want to use something that dries quicker, like acetone or alcohol, then use the bottled version.
Keda mixes with water or alcohol. Acetone is very toxic to breathe and evaporates in seconds, don't use it. Alcohol will dry fast and not raise wood grain much.
Good to see you back with your dyes and stains. Your hiatus has coincided with my lack of progress with my guitar finishing. Like you, I have limited space to work, especially in cold weather. I am curious; is Keda dye your product, or just your preferred product for your uses? You sure have mastered it! Always enjoy your videos.
Did you use oil-based or water-based poly?
Hi i would like to ask if using soluble dyes on birch will cause blotching if i dont apply a prestain before dyeing
Sorry for the delayed reply! I didnt see this come through sigh. I did not use any pre stain on any of my videos yet. I have not gotten to that point yet. Now with that said, it really can depend on the wood, the color, the wood prep, and honestly, the wood coloring agent. As mentioned, I have not used any wood conditioners, so no it really is not needed. The pre stain can make the wood more uniform, but also reduces the coloring power of the wood dye. Typically, just a good ol sanding is all you really need. Hey thank you for watching :)
Hay have you ever stained Bass wood with the keda dye, and how would you recommend doing it. On a Bass wood veneer, would you still sand with 180 grit? Would there be any other prep work before staining?
Thank you :) I just used polyurethane over the yellow. I like the oil based over yellow personally. Ages well ;) As for mixing, is pretty much the same with water or iso alcohol, but again, personally, I like adding the powders to a splash of water then adding rubbing alcohol, but I get iso by the gallon from a family member for next to nothing ;) Thank you again 👍🏻
Can I ask a question? I ordered yellow and blue from Keda. (Liquid) I was just getting ready to dye my bench an aquamarine. But I practiced on some pine, and the stain was so light. Also I dabbed on just yellow. It didn’t look yellow to me at all. Then I noticed the bottle, it said Amber Yellow. I’m so bummed. Is that the same color you use to make aquamarine? Please help! Thanxs!
I think you mean this color? Everyone has different names for certain colors...sorry. May want to dilute the yellow a little more. Is very strong color. Here is a video that may help though: th-cam.com/video/3cOhgYoZLRI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, I'm going to try this
Nice video as always sir !! :)
Thank you T! I really appreciate that. Just trying to get caught up lol 👍
How have things been going with you Terry?
What colors would look more like a natural wood stain on pine. The yellow has a good finish, but definitely not natural looking!
is a indoor/outdoor stain
This is how Shou Sugi Ban is pronounced: th-cam.com/video/FPhyfP-qMM4/w-d-xo.html
Blond AK anybody?
Exactly what I'm doing at this moment. Bought his dye for this reason
@@oddone1316 Same here, Walmart sells it cheap btw. Rit makes one named race red worked great on that blood red color of the old russian sets of years past, I even did a mosin with it looks graet.
@@oddone1316 Use the spar polly btw it works much better than the cheaper minwax polly, I used clear glooss spar polly then the satin as last coat helps with the amber coloring problem polly can give with many coats.