Barry, I just wanted to post to say THANK YOU! The last 30 seconds of this video when you commented about overtightening the socket set screw saved myself and the people who sold me my new mill A TON of work. I recently replaced my collet alignment screw and snugged up that socket set screw and it caused the last inch of quill travel to be extremely tight. After backing off the screw and lightly tightening it the quill feels good as new. Thank you so much for providing this content and saving me the headache of an inexperienced tech tearing apart my month old head of my mill!!!
BARRY YOUR THE MAN! my work was about to lay me off until i watched your videos on how to repair bridgeports! I am now the Bridgeport King at my work. thanks for keep my kids fed brother!
Wow I'm really impressed with the belt grinding the set screw, then reinstalling the set screw without cleaning it. Also, the attention to detail in your clean room is just....WOW!
Barry & Team - really appreciate these vids for us home gamers. I've always wondered why these machines were designed to use both grease and oil. Seems if you have a good oil system, you shouldn't need grease. I'm assuming that some operators get lazy about oiling and thus grease is used as it will stay in place for years? Given all the wear, chips, and dirt, grease seems to collect that junk and turn into a kind of very unwanted lapping compound...and grease oil mixtures are a mess, with the grease plugging some oil lines, drain holes..etc.
Always wash out the preservative oil so the grease will adhere to the ball and races. Great info, I enjoy all of your videos. They have been very helpful to me. Thanks
Thanks for all your videos! So many would keep this stuff secret, but you're putting this out so a dummy like me can work on an old mill with some degree of success.
I've always thought the Bridgeport spindle bearings were a little on the weak side. They angular contact set is easily upgradeable to a three bearing set with the bottom two in tandem and the top bearing back to back. When I was rebuilding our BP heads at work I did this. Rigidity in the spindle was also improved by adding 5 to 7 tenths preload. The new spacers need to parallel to under a tenth. Barden bearings running Kluber NBU 15 with the volume as prescribed with the syringes of NBU 15. Bearings were heated to 135° for installation. I never drove the spindle into the quill with a hammer. If a bearing set needs to be tapped into a bore make up a sleeve that matches the OD of the bearing and slides over the OD of the spindle. SKF makes a very good bearing fitting kit for this application. Spent 45 years repairing and rebuilding machinery a good portion of that complete rebuilds and high speed spinidle repair.
> If a bearing set needs to be tapped into a bore make up a sleeve that matches the OD of the bearing and slides over the OD of the spindle. Thanks for you comments. What do you mean by this exactly?
@@Anenome5 If you're still curious, he means you would make a sleeve that has an outside diameter that matches (or is a few thousandths under) the outside diameter of the outer race (the outside ring of the bearing that the balls rolls inside of) of the bearing. The sleeve has to slide over the outside diameter of the spindle though, or of course you won't be able to slide it over to put it up against the bearing. This gives you the ability to either press or tap the bearing into place without slamming the inner and outer races of the bearing together against the little rolling elements (the balls themselves) in the bearing. Ideally you want to avoid impacts to these parts as they are very hard and can develop tiny micro cracks or disturbances that accelerate wear. I hope this helps!
Thanks for this video, only thing I have seen on youtube like it. I followed this video and installed my new NSK Super Precision Bearings but runout in taper is now .002". It was .0007" with worn out bearings. The spacers matched within .0001" so I did not regrind them. What can I do?
The meticulousness of Robin is truly impressive - I think if you are rebuilding a surface grinder running at much higher speed watching Robin is well worth it.
Do you know if this bearing kit will fit on the Import Bridgeport clone mills. My mill is branded as McLane but is produced by Weihai Huadong Model X623B It has a 3 hp motor and R-8spindle and is belt drive, The spindle is produced in Tiawan.
These bearings are fairly standard in most milling machines. Just check that your spindle bearings are a 7207 and that the top bearing is a 6206 and the SRK-00 will work.
I love your video's and you're easy to understand. I do have a question-do you happen to have replacement parts for the Bridgeport "M" head? Thank you!!!!
Thank you. We have some parts available for the M-head. Most are obsolete and I may or may not have a used piece. All available new parts are listed on my website. Any part on there that says obsolete, you can email me with the item number you are looking for and I will let you know if I have that part used. machinerypartsdepot.com/m-head-2/ - headrepair@hwmachinerepair.com
The only difference is the bottom nosepiece being part of the process. Below the dirt shield in this video, on a quick change, is the nosepiece. The nosepiece will come off with the rest of the bearings as it shows on the video.
We don't have a dedicated video for the brake shoes, but if you want you can follow along in this video until you get to where we take off the top where the brakes are. At that point it's just taking off the old ones and putting the new ones. on. Eventually we may be able to get to that, but we have a very long list and no much time to do it: th-cam.com/video/mnhxoH4Sdc4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=H%26WMachineRepairandRebuilding
Not me noticing that when he was inserting the collet alignment set screw, that the bearings aren't aligned properly (marking arrows on the outer races)
1-If your spindle has up down play, but installation does not refer to preload, do you sort it by changine the spacers, although there are 3-? 2-My mill(ZX-45) has tapered roller bearing HRB 30208(Bottom) and HRB 30206(Top). I replace it with TRB-Timken bearings. The tech said it must just not be to tight for preload. There are no spacers between top and bottom bearings. 3-I am a bit confused that if preload is applied, how it actually works out in reality between inner and/or outer races-? 4-I also heard somebody said that mill spindles should have only angular contact bearings and not taper roller bearings-I am now more confused-?
If you are getting up and down play it could be spindle related or nose piece related. In a Bridgeport spindle the only bearings that matter are the two lower bearings with the spacers between. The bearing are angular contact bearings. The preload is achieved by the tightening of the lock nut on the top of the spindle assembly. The two spacers between the spindle bearings must be the same height and the bearings must be facing the correct direction. The easy test is once the lock nut is tight you should not be able to grab the outer spacer and it should be very tight. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 if you would like to discuss the problem over the phone
Say you are busy taking your spindle out, tap tap form the back and it gets stuck. The bottom bearing looks like its about an inch away from the spacer and no matter how many "taps" it's given, it refuses to move.
@@HWMachRepair it's fine thanks. The previous owner never put the clamping nut on top of the ac bearings and one came apart. Took the spindle shaft out and left the bearings in so I could tap them individually. It's really great that you guys follow up even on a 4 year old video. Have to say you folks have my respect.
Have them surface ground in the same setup to the exact same height. The two ends need to be extremely parallel for the bearings to last their normal lifespan. If they're not exactly the same then either the bearing might have seized, major rust problems or someone tried to add more preload which is not always the best idea.
Great demo Barry, but can you tell us WHY are these bearing so OVERPRICED???? I buy AIRPLANE bearings that come with a shitload of certifications and they are less than half the price. WTF am I missing here?
Joe Howard I have a question. I think my drawbar is gauled inside of a 1/2" collet. I cannot get the collet to loosed AT ALL. It just spins in the machine. Im now trying to get the spindle out but the spindle wont come out, I think, because the drawbar is still in the top of the spindle. Can you give me any suggestions? Im at wits end.
@@joehoward6644 You snapped the key in there. They get worn out over time. I'd watch this and see if you can replace the key before ripping the thing apart. th-cam.com/video/tj1XwSC9EZ4/w-d-xo.html One thing for sure, it sucks to be you! Hope ya get it apart.🤞😉
Exelentes vídeos ,felicidades pero si tuvieran subtítulos en español seria genial ,se van detalles de los comentarios del experto ,ojala los actualicen ,gracias
Depends on your runout needs. Turning the spindle taper inside its own bearings is always an option to minimize runout, but not always necessary, especially when using high precision bearings
I have problems with my R8 spindle, it makes noise and I feel there is a problem with it's Design. Can I send you the blueprints I made so you can help me to solve the issue?
If you have blueprints I assume you designed it yourself? A noisy spindle can mean that the bearings are preloaded too tight or too loose or some of the parts were not manufactured correctly.
What are symptoms of a worn out spindle bearing? I have a knockoff Bridgeport, Cadillac mill that I suspect is made by ENCO, there is obvious wobble as I bring the quill while the machine is running. Could this be a bad bearing?
You only need enough to lubricate the bearings. Using to much grease is going to cause friction which will cause excessive heat and degrade the bearing. If you have any questions please call us a 1-800-285-5271
Barry does typical repair tech type spindle O/H... If you have some time on your hands & would like to see a tool maker/spindle engineer build a spindle try this link... th-cam.com/video/grUdsTTRGl4/w-d-xo.html BTW Not meaning any disrespect to Barry's methods, He does it like I would do it... But sometimes it's good to see how engineers think... Take some of their knowledge & drag it back to our world... But don't take to much, you'll go crazy... LOL..
Barry, I just wanted to post to say THANK YOU! The last 30 seconds of this video when you commented about overtightening the socket set screw saved myself and the people who sold me my new mill A TON of work. I recently replaced my collet alignment screw and snugged up that socket set screw and it caused the last inch of quill travel to be extremely tight. After backing off the screw and lightly tightening it the quill feels good as new. Thank you so much for providing this content and saving me the headache of an inexperienced tech tearing apart my month old head of my mill!!!
BARRY YOUR THE MAN! my work was about to lay me off until i watched your videos on how to repair bridgeports! I am now the Bridgeport King at my work. thanks for keep my kids fed brother!
Thanks for your videos. You're making my Bridgeport Head repair much easier. Also like how you provide parts numbers, too.
I picked up a 1974 j2 series 1 Bridgeport a month ago. Thanks to your videos I have replaced bearings and half nuts. You guys are great!
Wow I'm really impressed with the belt grinding the set screw, then reinstalling the set screw without cleaning it. Also, the attention to detail in your clean room is just....WOW!
Thanks for this, fantastic professional, informative, basically a perfect video demonstration.
Barry & Team - really appreciate these vids for us home gamers. I've always wondered why these machines were designed to use both grease and oil. Seems if you have a good oil system, you shouldn't need grease. I'm assuming that some operators get lazy about oiling and thus grease is used as it will stay in place for years? Given all the wear, chips, and dirt, grease seems to collect that junk and turn into a kind of very unwanted lapping compound...and grease oil mixtures are a mess, with the grease plugging some oil lines, drain holes..etc.
Always wash out the preservative oil so the grease will adhere to the ball and races. Great info, I enjoy all of your videos. They have been very helpful to me.
Thanks
Thanks for all your videos! So many would keep this stuff secret, but you're putting this out so a dummy like me can work on an old mill with some degree of success.
I really appreciate that you share your knowledge !!!...thank you very much ...
I've always thought the Bridgeport spindle bearings were a little on the weak side. They angular contact set is easily upgradeable to a three bearing set with the bottom two in tandem and the top bearing back to back. When I was rebuilding our BP heads at work I did this. Rigidity in the spindle was also improved by adding 5 to 7 tenths preload. The new spacers need to parallel to under a tenth. Barden bearings running Kluber NBU 15 with the volume as prescribed with the syringes of NBU 15. Bearings were heated to 135° for installation. I never drove the spindle into the quill with a hammer. If a bearing set needs to be tapped into a bore make up a sleeve that matches the OD of the bearing and slides over the OD of the spindle. SKF makes a very good bearing fitting kit for this application. Spent 45 years repairing and rebuilding machinery a good portion of that complete rebuilds and high speed spinidle repair.
> If a bearing set needs to be tapped into a bore make up a sleeve that matches the OD of the bearing and slides over the OD of the spindle.
Thanks for you comments. What do you mean by this exactly?
@@Anenome5 If you're still curious, he means you would make a sleeve that has an outside diameter that matches (or is a few thousandths under) the outside diameter of the outer race (the outside ring of the bearing that the balls rolls inside of) of the bearing. The sleeve has to slide over the outside diameter of the spindle though, or of course you won't be able to slide it over to put it up against the bearing.
This gives you the ability to either press or tap the bearing into place without slamming the inner and outer races of the bearing together against the little rolling elements (the balls themselves) in the bearing. Ideally you want to avoid impacts to these parts as they are very hard and can develop tiny micro cracks or disturbances that accelerate wear. I hope this helps!
Many thanks for your show how to repair the spindle.
I’m planning to make homemade spindle too and I hope can
Thank you Barry you a true legend
That arbor press and leather hammer are very impressive!!!
Thanks for this video, only thing I have seen on youtube like it.
I followed this video and installed my new NSK Super Precision Bearings but runout in taper is now .002". It was .0007" with worn out bearings. The spacers matched within .0001" so I did not regrind them. What can I do?
I love wiss scissors thanks this is a great help 👍🏻
Quite a bit different than watching Robin's spindle rebuild.
The meticulousness of Robin is truly impressive - I think if you are rebuilding a surface grinder running at much higher speed watching Robin is well worth it.
What's the tolerance on the bearing spacer lengths? My outer spacer measures 0.0017" longer.
Nice video. I usually torque it until I shear the pin off of the spanner. Just kidding. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
LA50W10TM Wiss Scissors had me laughing for two minuets Thank You I needed that.
I want a pair!
Do you know if this bearing kit will fit on the Import Bridgeport clone mills. My mill is branded as McLane but is produced by Weihai Huadong Model X623B It has a 3 hp motor and R-8spindle and is belt drive, The spindle is produced in Tiawan.
These bearings are fairly standard in most milling machines. Just check that your spindle bearings are a 7207 and that the top bearing is a 6206 and the SRK-00 will work.
I love your video's and you're easy to understand. I do have a question-do you happen to have replacement parts for the Bridgeport "M" head? Thank you!!!!
Thank you. We have some parts available for the M-head. Most are obsolete and I may or may not have a used piece. All available new parts are listed on my website. Any part on there that says obsolete, you can email me with the item number you are looking for and I will let you know if I have that part used. machinerypartsdepot.com/m-head-2/ - headrepair@hwmachinerepair.com
@@HWMachRepair thank you for responding so quickly and will do. You explain the best in all the videos I've seen!
i like your video
Is there any advantage to using the sealed bearings?
less likely to get debris in them.
Lubed for life - no external lubrication required (
Timken bearings).
Could you replace the quill set screw with some light duty thread locker?
Yes, you can use the blue loctite on that screw.
No I meant put some light duty loctite on the nose piece thread into the quill and not used the locking grub screw at all? @@HWMachRepair
That isn't recommended. @@remoman
thanks for this!
Will this process be the same for a quick change assy
The only difference is the bottom nosepiece being part of the process. Below the dirt shield in this video, on a quick change, is the nosepiece. The nosepiece will come off with the rest of the bearings as it shows on the video.
Berry can you do a video on replacing the brake pads on a step pulley bridgeport j head
We don't have a dedicated video for the brake shoes, but if you want you can follow along in this video until you get to where we take off the top where the brakes are. At that point it's just taking off the old ones and putting the new ones. on. Eventually we may be able to get to that, but we have a very long list and no much time to do it: th-cam.com/video/mnhxoH4Sdc4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=H%26WMachineRepairandRebuilding
Not me noticing that when he was inserting the collet alignment set screw, that the bearings aren't aligned properly (marking arrows on the outer races)
1-If your spindle has up down play, but installation does not refer to preload, do you sort it by changine the spacers, although there are 3-?
2-My mill(ZX-45) has tapered roller bearing HRB 30208(Bottom) and HRB 30206(Top). I replace it with TRB-Timken bearings. The tech said it must just not be to tight for preload.
There are no spacers between top and bottom bearings.
3-I am a bit confused that if preload is applied, how it actually works out in reality between inner and/or outer races-?
4-I also heard somebody said that mill spindles should have only angular contact bearings and not taper roller bearings-I am now more confused-?
If you are getting up and down play it could be spindle related or nose piece related. In a Bridgeport spindle the only bearings that matter are the two lower bearings with the spacers between. The bearing are angular contact bearings. The preload is achieved by the tightening of the lock nut on the top of the spindle assembly. The two spacers between the spindle bearings must be the same height and the bearings must be facing the correct direction. The easy test is once the lock nut is tight you should not be able to grab the outer spacer and it should be very tight. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 if you would like to discuss the problem over the phone
Say you are busy taking your spindle out, tap tap form the back and it gets stuck. The bottom bearing looks like its about an inch away from the spacer and no matter how many "taps" it's given, it refuses to move.
The head tech says they need more information, can you please give us a call: 1-800-285-5271
@@HWMachRepair it's fine thanks. The previous owner never put the clamping nut on top of the ac bearings and one came apart. Took the spindle shaft out and left the bearings in so I could tap them individually. It's really great that you guys follow up even on a 4 year old video. Have to say you folks have my respect.
If the two spacers micrometer measurements were different, what would be the procedure?
Have them surface ground in the same setup to the exact same height. The two ends need to be extremely parallel for the bearings to last their normal lifespan.
If they're not exactly the same then either the bearing might have seized, major rust problems or someone tried to add more preload which is not always the best idea.
Great demo Barry, but can you tell us WHY are these bearing so OVERPRICED???? I buy AIRPLANE bearings that come with a shitload of certifications and they are less than half the price. WTF am I missing here?
Try looking at prices for ANY part for my Series II BP and it'll make you feel a lot better.
@@Steve_Just_Steve lol.. Thanks Steve.👍🍺
Joe Howard I have a question. I think my drawbar is gauled inside of a 1/2" collet. I cannot get the collet to loosed AT ALL. It just spins in the machine. Im now trying to get the spindle out but the spindle wont come out, I think, because the drawbar is still in the top of the spindle.
Can you give me any suggestions? Im at wits end.
@@joehoward6644 You snapped the key in there. They get worn out over time. I'd watch this and see if you can replace the key before ripping the thing apart. th-cam.com/video/tj1XwSC9EZ4/w-d-xo.html One thing for sure, it sucks to be you! Hope ya get it apart.🤞😉
Exelentes vídeos ,felicidades pero si tuvieran subtítulos en español seria genial ,se van detalles de los comentarios del experto ,ojala los actualicen ,gracias
en la sección de subtítulos ponle traducir a español,en el celular no se pueden traducir, solo en pc
I was all in up to the last min of the video. All that debris from sanding the set screw right next to the open bearing spindle. 🤦🏻♂️
What model arbor press do you use? Is it a 3-1/2 or a 3-3/4?
That thing is a beast
Our arbor press is a Greenerd 3-1/2.
When fitting the bearings, you could heat them up and they should slide on easily....
Does the r-8 taper need to be turned to insure run out and accuracy?
Depends on your runout needs. Turning the spindle taper inside its own bearings is always an option to minimize runout, but not always necessary, especially when using high precision bearings
Won't lie, i did not expect the rebuild kits to be that expensive 😳😬😪
Great video, thank you
I have problems with my R8 spindle, it makes noise and I feel there is a problem with it's Design. Can I send you the blueprints I made so you can help me to solve the issue?
If you have blueprints I assume you designed it yourself? A noisy spindle can mean that the bearings are preloaded too tight or too loose or some of the parts were not manufactured correctly.
Thanks!!!!
What are symptoms of a worn out spindle bearing?
I have a knockoff Bridgeport, Cadillac mill that I suspect is made by ENCO, there is obvious wobble as I bring the quill while the machine is running. Could this be a bad bearing?
Please give me number of replacing the spindle NOSE CAP QUILL on a Bridgeport R8 spindle
I believe you are looking for the Nose Piece correct? That is PN 1420: machinerypartsdepot.com/product/1420/
How do you get that unit out of the head?
th-cam.com/video/T1YJQUpNuaQ/w-d-xo.html
@@jagboy69 Thanks! Safe travels to you!!
Why don't you fill the bearings?
You only need enough to lubricate the bearings. Using to much grease is going to cause friction which will cause excessive heat and degrade the bearing. If you have any questions please call us a 1-800-285-5271
Show
Plz tell us bearing nomber witch used every thing you display on screen except bearing no.
Barry does typical repair tech type spindle O/H... If you have some time on your hands & would like to see a tool maker/spindle engineer build a spindle try this link... th-cam.com/video/grUdsTTRGl4/w-d-xo.html
BTW Not meaning any disrespect to Barry's methods, He does it like I would do it... But sometimes it's good to see how engineers think... Take some of their knowledge & drag it back to our world... But don't take to much, you'll go crazy... LOL..
make shipments to Mexico? zip code 25000
Really helpful thank you!