This is probably one of the better videos on blue stuff. Something my brain cannot get over is no t being able to use all the pieces of a box. Example: inquisitorial agents - I'd like to be able to build all the possible models with the one box I built, or at the least a couple of them. So I may attempt to build 1 or 2 or the bodies. Maybe that is my adhd talking, causing a little obsession.
For best results 1 use a stealable thermous with bioling hot water. This will retain more heat for you molds. 2 use legos to build a housing for your molds. 3. Use a pen or beads to make 3 -4 guiding hole to make sure your mold lines up the way it should. 4. Use just enough green stuff/ miliput. You want minimal flash. 5. Allow the first side to fully cool before making the second. 6. Lastly put something on top to apply even pressure. Enjoy!!
Definitely using this for some legs and torsos for my up and coming necrons. and possibly some Carnifex torsos and legs too if I can help it. Too many bits, not enough of what matters
Just bought some blue stuff this week. Thank you for the super informative video. Felling a lot more confident about using the blue stuff now. Can’t wait!
Great video! Some extra tips, just because I've been messing with this stuff all month: 1. You don't need to use all of it at once, unless you're casting something big. Less is better. Thicker moulds are also harder to remove. 2. For your first casts, use something expendable. It can be a little tricky, and you don't want to lose your favourite mini while learning the ropes. 3. TT Combat makes the same stuff: search for "mini mould" or "white stuff" when comparing prices.
Thanks! I love the TT combat buildings and models, never seen their moulding materials I’ll have to take a look. I’ve done an updated version of this video recently with a couple of changes to how I do things, always learning!
Wonder if it is possible to youse bluestuff to cast the body parts of imperial knights because my problem with imperial knights is that all the boxes have the bits to build the other versions of questoris knights and that stops me to build an imperial or chaos knights army
It would be a lot of work but it would be possible, I did an updated version of this video on the channel recently where I cast an old sentinel up, the issue with the knight would be the size of alot of the panels, you would need a lot of blue stuff!
I love this stuff for making bits n bobs for scenery, basing etc. My biggest triumph though is repairing broken figures where weapons (bows, swords in my case) are missing/missing parts. Those I used sprue goo to recast replacement parts and rescuing those figures for use 👍☺
@@adamshobbystuff Don't use it too runny and leave in the mold considerably longer than milliput and the like to give the plastic time to set. I would wait for the smell of glue to clear too to absolutely sure. This obviously takes longer but I think it's worth it to rescue figures.
i also use blue stuff, i cast some bitz for my orks, add some rokkits and mines on tank bustaz, making more Glyphs for scratch built vehicles and you could even cast your own damaged orky armor plates, don’t sleep on this product if you have orks s or love converting.
It’s a fantastic product for any army that like to cobble stuff together. I actually have some casts from the ork kill team terrain that Ive yet to use in anything!
Never tried the body filler, I’ll take a look, doing the UV resin could be an interesting way of making clear screens/port holes etc, may have to experiment!
How to get easy corpses for your bases: 1) try to actually copy a mini for the purposes of having a playable mini 2) fail spectacularly and have a misaligned mess 3) use said misaligned mess as a corpse on your base
How would you cast a very flat, thin piece? Would you use a single 2-part mold or two 1-part mold of each side, then glue them together? I imagine making a very thin 2-part mold is difficult
I have cast up the wings of plague drones before which are fairly flat and thin using a 2 part mould, the challenge comes in how much you then fill it with, quite easy to overfill when it’s a very thin piece and end up bulging in parts. If you are careful it’s possible to cast virtually anything. The only thing I have cast and glued together is when I have done very large pieces so it does work. 👍
How can I mould tank tracks using blue stuff? I bought one of those big kit sets but the Sherman tracks broke when I tried to wrap them around the wheels. When I contacted Airfix, I was asked what the part number was. To my surprise, the person on the other end of the phone didn’t recognise the part number. It was a blooming tank track for gods sake. How many part numbers does a tank track have? Anyway, that didn’t solve my problem. So I need to mould my own. David Damek did a great video about moulding parts with blue stuff so I thought I would ask you this question.
You can absolutely mold a tank track, you could do either a single part or a 2 part mold depending on whether the track is attached to anything/loose. When you come to cast it up I’d do it with pure green stuff as it would then be very flexible so you can bend it etc round the shape of the tank. I’ve done a more recent vid on casting with blue stuff you may want to check out as well as it may give you more info.
Hi, for the pieces in this video it’s milliput. It’s a 2 part putty, works it a similar way to greenstuff but a lot cheaper and a bit easier to work with. Very easy to get hold of in the UK and I believe it’s a worldwide brand. Greenstuff works though if you can’t get milliput and does hold more detail if you are doing smaller parts.
I'm already doing it with fine results. You can use Oyumaru stuff, you get the same results. I prefer the Tamiya epoxy putty, as the Milliput tends to desagregate. In the end, same results ^^
@@adamshobbystuff Well, you get a more "plastic" result, which I prefer. I tried green stuff years ago, but can't get it properly now (I'm currently living in Asia). Still, if you mix Milliput with isopropyl alcohol, you can blend it marvelously. The two are quite useful, but for sculpting and casting, I still prefer Tamiya ;-)
@@klug5916 when you mean by the milliput disintegrating how so? does it flake off over time by itself or get cracks after getting handled too many times?
@@B1-997 Well, it creates some kind of sandy or dusty texture, even when dried. It's disagregating, you could say. So, when I cut parts of the cast made with this, I god quite bad results. Never have this problem with Tamiya putty or basic epoxy putty, so that's why I don't acknowledge Milliput that much.
@@B1-997 Well, it's a bit like a sand castle. The material crumbles, small parts, like sand corns, go off. So I don't believe it takes time well. No such problem with the other putties, and I don't avec access to Green Stuff anymore, so can't speak about this now. But I never had any problem with Green Stuff years ago, when I used it.
That's good to know, sounds manageable for a noob modeller like myself - thanks for the quick response, keep making the vids as they are really inspiring 💪
I’ve never used oyimaru personally but have been told multiple times that it’s as good if not the same as blue stuff. What part of the process didn’t work for you?
@@adamshobbystuff hi, I was trying to duplicate stuff in a few areas of interest, first case, I was trying to clone a carapace from the knight kit, after who knows how many attempts, come back sometime later and try again that sort of deal, I was unable to duplicate that piece, possibly due to the fact that it is a really curvy form, the oyimaru just couldn't get a full sharp details, I tried many different approach from youtube vids, all failed, I even tried to replace the oyimaru with green stuff hoping will yield a better result and failed miserably... the second case would be on some common surface areas from various 40k kits, I found out that quite often they would be bubble and tearing formed within the oyimaru causing the result to be imperfect, and also it is not good with large piece duplication as it tends to break and since they cool down pretty fast (strange, I live in Hong Kong), I just didn't have enough time to mold the entire piece, thats my story so far, thanks for your question :)
Sounds like it could be the fault of the oyimaru, I’ve personally made a blue stuff mould of a knights shoulder armour panel before and that is very curved (on my third nurgle knight vid) i have found blue stuff can tear if you try to make the mould too thin so maybe use more of the product to make a sturdy mould if that’s the issue for you?
@@adamshobbystuff arh, interesting, may be, the only way to find out is to get my hands on these lovely blue stuff, but I will need to find a supplier that willing to delivery to where I live as Green Stuff World doesn't do business with Hong Kong, at least not any more, so its really difficult to get their stuffs over here, shame, they have tons of really good products...
Came here as my next project requires 7 copies of a weapon for which the kit only has 6 present in the box and I don't want to go go a bits reseller and pay exorbitant shipping for just one weapon.
I tried this the other day. The blue stuff kept sticking to my part so bad that I gave up. And when I would apply blue stuff top layer mold it would stick to the other blue stuff.. wtf Everyone seems to have an easy time
When you formed the first half of the mould did you leave it to cool before using the second half? It being too hot will cause the two halves to stick together. When you put the blue stuff onto the piece it will stick but shouldn’t be sticky (if that makes sense) when fully cooled it should peel off easy ish. What were you moulding? Was it something heat sensitive?
@@adamshobbystuff thanks for the advice! I was trying to cast a gijoe control stick for a cockpit.. not sure about its heat sensitivity etc. Maybe if I lightly oil the peice? Opinion?
I’ve never tried oil on something. I have used very light levels of talcum powder (baby powder) on things I’m doing traditional rubber moulds on. Not sure if this would work with blue stuff though?
This is probably one of the better videos on blue stuff. Something my brain cannot get over is no t being able to use all the pieces of a box. Example: inquisitorial agents - I'd like to be able to build all the possible models with the one box I built, or at the least a couple of them. So I may attempt to build 1 or 2 or the bodies. Maybe that is my adhd talking, causing a little obsession.
Nothing wrong with trying to get all the models used! I use a lot of blue stuff castings across my conversions, it’s a great little tool to have.
For best results
1 use a stealable thermous with bioling hot water. This will retain more heat for you molds.
2 use legos to build a housing for your molds.
3. Use a pen or beads to make 3 -4 guiding hole to make sure your mold lines up the way it should.
4. Use just enough green stuff/ miliput. You want minimal flash.
5. Allow the first side to fully cool before making the second.
6. Lastly put something on top to apply even pressure.
Enjoy!!
That about sums it up although I don’t do the Lego part when using blue stuff, that is something I use when making moulds in rubber though.
Definitely using this for some legs and torsos for my up and coming necrons. and possibly some Carnifex torsos and legs too if I can help it. Too many bits, not enough of what matters
Make the most of all the spares in the kits!
Just bought some blue stuff this week. Thank you for the super informative video. Felling a lot more confident about using the blue stuff now. Can’t wait!
Glad you enjoyed the vid, hope you have fun casting stuff up!
Great video!
Some extra tips, just because I've been messing with this stuff all month:
1. You don't need to use all of it at once, unless you're casting something big. Less is better. Thicker moulds are also harder to remove.
2. For your first casts, use something expendable. It can be a little tricky, and you don't want to lose your favourite mini while learning the ropes.
3. TT Combat makes the same stuff: search for "mini mould" or "white stuff" when comparing prices.
Thanks! I love the TT combat buildings and models, never seen their moulding materials I’ll have to take a look. I’ve done an updated version of this video recently with a couple of changes to how I do things, always learning!
Wonder if it is possible to youse bluestuff to cast the body parts of imperial knights because my problem with imperial knights is that all the boxes have the bits to build the other versions of questoris knights and that stops me to build an imperial or chaos knights army
It would be a lot of work but it would be possible, I did an updated version of this video on the channel recently where I cast an old sentinel up, the issue with the knight would be the size of alot of the panels, you would need a lot of blue stuff!
I love this stuff for making bits n bobs for scenery, basing etc. My biggest triumph though is repairing broken figures where weapons (bows, swords in my case) are missing/missing parts. Those I used sprue goo to recast replacement parts and rescuing those figures for use 👍☺
Never tried sprue goo in the moulds to be honest, I’ll have to give that a go.
@@adamshobbystuff Don't use it too runny and leave in the mold considerably longer than milliput and the like to give the plastic time to set. I would wait for the smell of glue to clear too to absolutely sure. This obviously takes longer but I think it's worth it to rescue figures.
I’ll give it a try, I’ve always got a pot of it on the go for gap filling.
@@adamshobbystuff Don't forget to thicken it up, ideally to the consistency of milliput/green stuff and you shouldn't go far wrong ☺
Great vid, definitely using this to cast the Smasha on my mek gun so I can equip a pile of (gw sprue) scrap mek guns with easy to recognize weapons.
Definitely a great use for this stuff, good luck!
Exactly what I need for making unique terrain pieces :) thanks!
Really glad you liked the vid! Cheers 👍
Very handy video - thanks for this. Going to buy some blue stuff now!
Cheers, have fun playing with it!
I’ve recently started this myself. Mainly to make more components to help with converting a set.
It’s a great little technique and makes conversions so much easier when you can bash out lots of parts without spending a fortune.
i also use blue stuff, i cast some bitz for my orks, add some rokkits and mines on tank bustaz, making more Glyphs for scratch built vehicles and you could even cast your own damaged orky armor plates, don’t sleep on this product if you have orks s or love converting.
It’s a fantastic product for any army that like to cobble stuff together. I actually have some casts from the ork kill team terrain that Ive yet to use in anything!
thank you for this informative video
Glad you liked it 👍
you also can do one use molds using hotglue soaked in boiling water
really?thats interesting!!!
I have heard of doing it that way but never tried, might have to give it a go sometime.
Great vid
Thanks 😊
You can also use 2 part car body filler (bondo etc.), which cures in about 10 minutes , Or even put the blue stuff in the freezer then use UV resin.
Never tried the body filler, I’ll take a look, doing the UV resin could be an interesting way of making clear screens/port holes etc, may have to experiment!
@@adamshobbystuff The great thing about UV resin is that you can also use powders first (Mica, metallic etc.) to cold cast
You’ve definitely got me in the mood to experiment when opportunity allows (buried in death guard at the moment!)
Great vid dude👍
Thanks, glad you liked it 👍
How to get easy corpses for your bases:
1) try to actually copy a mini for the purposes of having a playable mini
2) fail spectacularly and have a misaligned mess
3) use said misaligned mess as a corpse on your base
Great way of using up test casts/failures!
How would you cast a very flat, thin piece? Would you use a single 2-part mold or two 1-part mold of each side, then glue them together? I imagine making a very thin 2-part mold is difficult
I have cast up the wings of plague drones before which are fairly flat and thin using a 2 part mould, the challenge comes in how much you then fill it with, quite easy to overfill when it’s a very thin piece and end up bulging in parts. If you are careful it’s possible to cast virtually anything. The only thing I have cast and glued together is when I have done very large pieces so it does work. 👍
How can I mould tank tracks using blue stuff? I bought one of those big kit sets but the Sherman tracks broke when I tried to wrap them around the wheels. When I contacted Airfix, I was asked what the part number was. To my surprise, the person on the other end of the phone didn’t recognise the part number. It was a blooming tank track for gods sake. How many part numbers does a tank track have? Anyway, that didn’t solve my problem. So I need to mould my own. David Damek did a great video about moulding parts with blue stuff so I thought I would ask you this question.
You can absolutely mold a tank track, you could do either a single part or a 2 part mold depending on whether the track is attached to anything/loose. When you come to cast it up I’d do it with pure green stuff as it would then be very flexible so you can bend it etc round the shape of the tank. I’ve done a more recent vid on casting with blue stuff you may want to check out as well as it may give you more info.
Make this more liked than ‘I’m a bald guy’
I had to search that, thanks 😄
Hi. I was wonder what product you use to form for the final product aka the white clay thing. I'm a beginner to this whole molding process
Hi, for the pieces in this video it’s milliput. It’s a 2 part putty, works it a similar way to greenstuff but a lot cheaper and a bit easier to work with. Very easy to get hold of in the UK and I believe it’s a worldwide brand. Greenstuff works though if you can’t get milliput and does hold more detail if you are doing smaller parts.
@@adamshobbystuff thank you for the information
I'm already doing it with fine results.
You can use Oyumaru stuff, you get the same results. I prefer the Tamiya epoxy putty, as the Milliput tends to desagregate.
In the end, same results ^^
I’ve never used Tamiya epoxy putty, I’ll have to get hold of some and try it out.
@@adamshobbystuff Well, you get a more "plastic" result, which I prefer. I tried green stuff years ago, but can't get it properly now (I'm currently living in Asia). Still, if you mix Milliput with isopropyl alcohol, you can blend it marvelously.
The two are quite useful, but for sculpting and casting, I still prefer Tamiya ;-)
@@klug5916 when you mean by the milliput disintegrating how so? does it flake off over time by itself or get cracks after getting handled too many times?
@@B1-997 Well, it creates some kind of sandy or dusty texture, even when dried. It's disagregating, you could say.
So, when I cut parts of the cast made with this, I god quite bad results.
Never have this problem with Tamiya putty or basic epoxy putty, so that's why I don't acknowledge Milliput that much.
@@B1-997 Well, it's a bit like a sand castle. The material crumbles, small parts, like sand corns, go off. So I don't believe it takes time well.
No such problem with the other putties, and I don't avec access to Green Stuff anymore, so can't speak about this now. But I never had any problem with Green Stuff years ago, when I used it.
Superb! When you are manipulating the blue stuff do you need to wet your hands like when working with milliput ? How sticky is it ?
No need to wet hands or anything, not sticky at all 👍
That's good to know, sounds manageable for a noob modeller like myself - thanks for the quick response, keep making the vids as they are really inspiring 💪
wondering if blue stuff is better than the oyimaru, as I didn't have much success with the later one...
I’ve never used oyimaru personally but have been told multiple times that it’s as good if not the same as blue stuff. What part of the process didn’t work for you?
@@adamshobbystuff hi, I was trying to duplicate stuff in a few areas of interest, first case, I was trying to clone a carapace from the knight kit, after who knows how many attempts, come back sometime later and try again that sort of deal, I was unable to duplicate that piece, possibly due to the fact that it is a really curvy form, the oyimaru just couldn't get a full sharp details, I tried many different approach from youtube vids, all failed, I even tried to replace the oyimaru with green stuff hoping will yield a better result and failed miserably... the second case would be on some common surface areas from various 40k kits, I found out that quite often they would be bubble and tearing formed within the oyimaru causing the result to be imperfect, and also it is not good with large piece duplication as it tends to break and since they cool down pretty fast (strange, I live in Hong Kong), I just didn't have enough time to mold the entire piece, thats my story so far, thanks for your question :)
Sounds like it could be the fault of the oyimaru, I’ve personally made a blue stuff mould of a knights shoulder armour panel before and that is very curved (on my third nurgle knight vid) i have found blue stuff can tear if you try to make the mould too thin so maybe use more of the product to make a sturdy mould if that’s the issue for you?
@@adamshobbystuff arh, interesting, may be, the only way to find out is to get my hands on these lovely blue stuff, but I will need to find a supplier that willing to delivery to where I live as Green Stuff World doesn't do business with Hong Kong, at least not any more, so its really difficult to get their stuffs over here, shame, they have tons of really good products...
It's good for one part moulds, two part moulds are tricky, imho. 🤓
The two part ones can take some practice to get used to using. Good fun to do though 🙂
Came here as my next project requires 7 copies of a weapon for which the kit only has 6 present in the box and I don't want to go go a bits reseller and pay exorbitant shipping for just one weapon.
It’s a great bit of kit for doing just that, loads of my builds use cast up parts it’s also really fun!
👍
🙂👍
Oyumaru is just like blue stuff and a lot cheaper
I have been told about Oyumaru a few times, I will have to source some from somewhere and give it a go.
@@adamshobbystuff ebay
I tried this the other day. The blue stuff kept sticking to my part so bad that I gave up. And when I would apply blue stuff top layer mold it would stick to the other blue stuff.. wtf Everyone seems to have an easy time
When you formed the first half of the mould did you leave it to cool before using the second half? It being too hot will cause the two halves to stick together. When you put the blue stuff onto the piece it will stick but shouldn’t be sticky (if that makes sense) when fully cooled it should peel off easy ish. What were you moulding? Was it something heat sensitive?
@@adamshobbystuff thanks for the advice! I was trying to cast a gijoe control stick for a cockpit.. not sure about its heat sensitivity etc. Maybe if I lightly oil the peice? Opinion?
I’ve never tried oil on something. I have used very light levels of talcum powder (baby powder) on things I’m doing traditional rubber moulds on. Not sure if this would work with blue stuff though?
final result is very bad, doesnt worth so much trouble for this
Do you mean the final result on the vid or have you had a go and it hadn’t worked?