My man…good to see you wrenching on your bike but for the love of god follow my suggestions. First of all, after removing your pads from the caliper spray the caliper with a good dose of brake cleaner and wipe dry. Cleans all of the dirt out. Secondly, NEVER let your greasy dirty fingers touch the surface of your new brake pads…NEVER! Third, always get a new caliper retaining clip and pad pin for your pad installation. There’s a reason the MoCo supplies it with new pads. The clip and pin DO experience appreciable wear as they support the pads with constant spring pressure against them. For $6 you’d be foolish not to. Fourth, learn your torque specs. Get a service manual. They are a great help. Fifth, never pry against the surface of your new pads with a screwdriver. Good luck. Front pad pin torque is 75-102in lbs, brake caliper mounting screws are 28-38ft lbs. But you probably know that by now. And remember to loosen your rear cylinder reservoir cap to release some pressure. Wrap a paper towel or two around the cap to prevent leakage. That DOT 4 will eat any paint it touches. And don’t forget to retighten.
dont you have to loosen or open the break fluid reservoir cap and remove some break fluid just in case when you compress the calipers some fluid might come out? ive seen some people do it on other videos. thanks
The next real brake upgrade is sn AN BBK. I have it both my built streetglide and modded Dyna LRS and makes a great improvement. Also use Lyndall Golds on my SG. Get about 10k before minimum. 👍
My probem is the rear brake feels and is weak on my 2020 FLH bike. Rear brake felt weak from day one. Now at 8k Im going to upgrade the rear first. Front feels and is fine.
I have a new 2020 Street Glide, but I also owned a Road Glide Ultra. I find even on this new bike the rear brakes are terrible, especially when riding 2 up. Thinking of upgrading the rear first.
Out of curiosity - am I going through the same process for the rear brake? Noticed that the fronts are the same (and relatively easy) but looking to do the rear as well.
our gold plus stopping torque is phenomenal, and for the more aggressive rider our extreme pads are the ticket. reach out to us and we can get you setup.
@@lyndallbrakes I currently have the Z-Plus pads on the back for modulation control. They are quite nice. I went with Galfer Wave 13inch rotor and HH pads in the front since that's what's used by many at the track. The lyndall pads in the back are excellent for initial braking and transitioning into trail braking the front when corning fast and hard. Excellent pads.
Heatwave sunglasses probably the best sun glasses z87 approved for construction. Alot of California Ironworkers wear those including myself protect your eyes from debri and metal shavings. There bad ass glasses and don't fog up easy like other brands
I agree, I have been using Lyndall brake pads on my Harleys since 2006 never had a problem.
we love to see it!!! thank you for your continued support
My man…good to see you wrenching on your bike but for the love of god follow my suggestions. First of all, after removing your pads from the caliper spray the caliper with a good dose of brake cleaner and wipe dry. Cleans all of the dirt out. Secondly, NEVER let your greasy dirty fingers touch the surface of your new brake pads…NEVER! Third, always get a new caliper retaining clip and pad pin for your pad installation. There’s a reason the MoCo supplies it with new pads. The clip and pin DO experience appreciable wear as they support the pads with constant spring pressure against them. For $6 you’d be foolish not to. Fourth, learn your torque specs. Get a service manual. They are a great help. Fifth, never pry against the surface of your new pads with a screwdriver. Good luck. Front pad pin torque is 75-102in lbs, brake caliper mounting screws are 28-38ft lbs. But you probably know that by now. And remember to loosen your rear cylinder reservoir cap to release some pressure. Wrap a paper towel or two around the cap to prevent leakage. That DOT 4 will eat any paint it touches. And don’t forget to retighten.
Good video I’m thinking to upgrade. My rear is squeaking. HD don’t make good pads. I see you use no grease behind the pad? Interesting. Good luck
Its surprising easy 2 change out frt brake pads, i was amazed...
Thank you, Im doing my brakes now after watching your video
The calipers on a 14 and up touring are brembo, so how do they suck? Pads now that makes sense.
Awesome, I always do stage one. Then suspension, brakes, drivetrain, before anymore power. While getting my skills leveled up.
Great idea! Suspension and brakes are more important than motor upgrades in my opinion.
dont you have to loosen or open the break fluid reservoir cap and remove some break fluid just in case when you compress the calipers some fluid might come out? ive seen some people do it on other videos. thanks
I've seen it done both ways, I didn't have a problem the way I did it.
The next real brake upgrade is sn AN BBK. I have it both my built streetglide and modded Dyna LRS and makes a great improvement.
Also use Lyndall Golds on my SG. Get about 10k before minimum. 👍
Thanks for the info!
My probem is the rear brake feels and is weak on my 2020 FLH bike. Rear brake felt weak from day one. Now at 8k Im going to upgrade the rear first. Front feels and is fine.
The lyndall pads help a bit!
I have a new 2020 Street Glide, but I also owned a Road Glide Ultra. I find even on this new bike the rear brakes are terrible, especially when riding 2 up. Thinking of upgrading the rear first.
give us a shout, would be happy to get you dialed with stopping power that out performs the competition
My oems lasted 28k and I'm hard on the frt brakes almost nvr touch my rear brake...
Out of curiosity - am I going through the same process for the rear brake? Noticed that the fronts are the same (and relatively easy) but looking to do the rear as well.
Yeah it’s essentially the same process, just two Allen bolts and the caliper comes right off
Not going to vent the brake fluid housing?
Did your brakes squeal the first couple ride times cause mine do.
So do you have a review/impressions of these brake pads? Do they really help you stop after/with more force?
They definitely have a more consistent feel to them, and if you brake hard they don't fade. I'd recommend them!
@@JonsMotorcycles thats what im looking for. !
our gold plus stopping torque is phenomenal, and for the more aggressive rider our extreme pads are the ticket. reach out to us and we can get you setup.
@@lyndallbrakes I currently have the Z-Plus pads on the back for modulation control. They are quite nice.
I went with Galfer Wave 13inch rotor and HH pads in the front since that's what's used by many at the track.
The lyndall pads in the back are excellent for initial braking and transitioning into trail braking the front when corning fast and hard.
Excellent pads.
Lifting your truck and not changing tires is like owning a Harley and living in an apartment complex!
At least he’s got his priorities straight by owning a Harley and not some metric pos crotch rocket.
I got less than 5000 miles on the stock brake pads. I was very disappointed 😞
Ya try the lyndall ones they’re working better!
Same here but n rear brake pads. But front half way.
Nice 👍 writeup
Thanks!
Those new pins and clip are like $10. Off ebay. Free s/h
U dont need 2 take the calipers off.
Thats a NEWB for yah. Don`t know much a nuttin.
He probably couldn`t spell "mechanic" yesterday, today he R one.
Exactly, you use wood shims to compress the calipers. Take your pin out and the pads come right out.
Those are supposed 2b the best u can get.
If no one has mentioned it to you, man, those sunglasses are hideous... Way too big for your face shape.
They keep the bugs out of the helmet when I don’t wear a face shield! 🇺🇸
@@JonsMotorcycles probably deflect the bugs away from the car behind you, too XD
@@JonsMotorcycles I think they’re dope haha keep rocking em bro🤙🏼
Heatwave sunglasses probably the best sun glasses z87 approved for construction. Alot of California Ironworkers wear those including myself protect your eyes from debri and metal shavings. There bad ass glasses and don't fog up easy like other brands
80's B-Boy status 😎
drop the glasses just be you dude ...
oh come on dude, he`s a newb, he`ll grow into them. Most harley riders heads swell pretty quick.