Lowering the car, changes the angle of the LCA which changes the point of the Roll Center, moving it further from the Center of Gravity. This increases the leverage in a roll, and you actually get more weight for e in a roll with the lowered car. This is why you need to fix the RC. Some of the symptoms you ve mentioned are not RC related but due to the change in alignment, following the lowering
You need to remove the bolts on the rear control arm bush, leave the front one in. It will allow the control arm to pivot downwards. Then your grandma can hit it with her handbag and it will practically fall out.
You should also install rear endlinks and the Perrin steering dampener lockdown helps a lot with steering feel. And if you raise your car up close to stock height this will make things worse right?
This all I need to do to complete my suspension. Then I’m going to get Corner weighted and custom alignment. I’m going to have to shop do it all, after watching this! lol
Chrisfix made a really good video about this. To count the turns of the tierod as it's coming out. And when installing put that same amount of turns back into the new one. And it definitely helps. But for sure get a alignment after. But good video man
I fitted the Megan racing ones on my Nissan s14, huge toe in, I'm going back to stock. I would need to buy all the steering rods stuff to match and then I'll have camber problems....
Great video helped me understand the weird pulling I got after I put my new wheels (9.5 oF38 265-35r18).. I have gen7 fortune auto 500 with swift spring I haven’t installed them yet. What else should I do should I get the rear control arms also??
@@WRXGarage I only want to lower the car about quarter inch all around, I feel like running these wide tires the suspension isn’t up to it will the new coilovers with pillow balls help, and should I get the white line bump stop kit
nice. you have a 4runner too. i have one with a V8. its a great combo having a wrx and a 4runner. i thought a V8 model would be good in case i need to tow my wrx. i went with the eibach front and rear sway bars with white line front and rear end links and rear sway bar control braces. i also have white line lowering springs, pitch stop and rear lower control arms which i have not installed yet. im turning 41 in april so i thought about a cold air kit. any opinions on the cold air kit performance wise on these cars?
@@WRXGarage yeah my tuner said anything i do requires a tune as the fa's are pretty sensitive to airflow changes. i wanted to get her re dyno tuned anyways.
Hey, I have a 2019 wrx. I have a stock suspension with adjustable rear control arms by SPC, everything else is stock. Was planning on getting fortune auto 500s with Swift springs... apart from the roll center kit, what else would you recommend to drop the car approx 1inch mainly for daily driving? There's a lot of info online and you seem to have the setup im going for
That entire setup sounds perfect to be honest! The swift springs should be great too. As for the rear LCAs, those should help you add camber for the rear to match the front. Honestly, that sounds like a good setup on its own. Try it out and see how it feels. If you want later down the line, add a swaybar kit.
My understanding is that they're more variable in performance which means they're just as stiff while being more compliant at lower speeds, i.e. more comfortable
Did nobody tell him there is a ball joint separator tool? no hitting required...and it is like 40 bucks...also the lower bolt needs to be removed for the lower control arm to pop off.
Those ball joints are terrible. Living in the rust belt, most times people are bettor off buying a new knuckle. I've had success pulling the whole knuckle off, bolting a piece of steel to the ball joint and hammering it out.
Lowering the car, changes the angle of the LCA which changes the point of the Roll Center, moving it further from the Center of Gravity. This increases the leverage in a roll, and you actually get more weight for e in a roll with the lowered car. This is why you need to fix the RC. Some of the symptoms you ve mentioned are not RC related but due to the change in alignment, following the lowering
Just installed this kit. PB blaster, a breaker bar, and heavy hammer are your best friends
You need to remove the bolts on the rear control arm bush, leave the front one in. It will allow the control arm to pivot downwards. Then your grandma can hit it with her handbag and it will practically fall out.
You should also install rear endlinks and the Perrin steering dampener lockdown helps a lot with steering feel. And if you raise your car up close to stock height this will make things worse right?
This all I need to do to complete my suspension. Then I’m going to get Corner weighted and custom alignment. I’m going to have to shop do it all, after watching this! lol
Chrisfix made a really good video about this. To count the turns of the tierod as it's coming out. And when installing put that same amount of turns back into the new one. And it definitely helps. But for sure get a alignment after. But good video man
I fitted the Megan racing ones on my Nissan s14, huge toe in, I'm going back to stock. I would need to buy all the steering rods stuff to match and then I'll have camber problems....
I appreciate the full transparency and that earned you a like, sub, and ring on that bell!
just got my car tuned at bren tuning, theyre actulal gods
I really enjoyed your video. You keep it real, I've been there...
Grab a pinch and put it in between the ear to upen up the gap then take a pry bar or flat head and hit the ball joint out
Great video helped me understand the weird pulling I got after I put my new wheels (9.5 oF38 265-35r18).. I have gen7 fortune auto 500 with swift spring I haven’t installed them yet. What else should I do should I get the rear control arms also??
Depends on if you want to be able to control your camber in the rear!
@@WRXGarage I only want to lower the car about quarter inch all around, I feel like running these wide tires the suspension isn’t up to it will the new coilovers with pillow balls help, and should I get the white line bump stop kit
I'm wondering if you tried using leverage instead of impact force.
nice. you have a 4runner too. i have one with a V8. its a great combo having a wrx and a 4runner. i thought a V8 model would be good in case i need to tow my wrx. i went with the eibach front and rear sway bars with white line front and rear end links and rear sway bar control braces. i also have white line lowering springs, pitch stop and rear lower control arms which i have not installed yet. im turning 41 in april so i thought about a cold air kit. any opinions on the cold air kit performance wise on these cars?
Unfortunately the 4runner is not mine haha, it's my friend's. You're right tho that would be a great combo to own.
Cold air intakes are great, but make sure you run a tune for it!
@@WRXGarage yeah my tuner said anything i do requires a tune as the fa's are pretty sensitive to airflow changes. i wanted to get her re dyno tuned anyways.
A block of wood and rubber mallet
Hey, I have a 2019 wrx. I have a stock suspension with adjustable rear control arms by SPC, everything else is stock. Was planning on getting fortune auto 500s with Swift springs... apart from the roll center kit, what else would you recommend to drop the car approx 1inch mainly for daily driving? There's a lot of info online and you seem to have the setup im going for
That entire setup sounds perfect to be honest! The swift springs should be great too. As for the rear LCAs, those should help you add camber for the rear to match the front. Honestly, that sounds like a good setup on its own. Try it out and see how it feels. If you want later down the line, add a swaybar kit.
Also, we're going to post a video very soon on a tool specifically for pulling out the ball joints 👍 which will help immensely.
Thank you! Any idea how the swift springs differ on the FA500s for daily driving?
My understanding is that they're more variable in performance which means they're just as stiff while being more compliant at lower speeds, i.e. more comfortable
Did nobody tell him there is a ball joint separator tool? no hitting required...and it is like 40 bucks...also the lower bolt needs to be removed for the lower control arm to pop off.
Yeah.. look at the follow up video. I used the puller tool and it took 5 min.
Set the toe and let her go
Hit it with your purse.
Those ball joints are terrible. Living in the rust belt, most times people are bettor off buying a new knuckle. I've had success pulling the whole knuckle off, bolting a piece of steel to the ball joint and hammering it out.