Got a 02 Chevy express van 1500 with the 5.7 Vortec and at first thought the problem was with the Transmission Range Sensor/Neutral Safety Switch due to pulling code P0706 and P0300. Took it to a trans shop and they said that the sensor is working perfectly and that the code was old in the history. The van only has 17,000 original miles but sat on and off for a while. I figured a wire might have been chewed by a squirrel or rat but once reassured by the trans shop that the sensor was good and they the engine has a severe misfire I took it to another shop. The new shop tried to say I needed to replace the sensor (red flag) and that the distributor cap was charred and I should replace the whole distributor! (Another red flag) just curious how likely it would be that I do in fact need to replace the distributor and not just the cap and rotor being the vehicle only has 17000 miles on it. Also just to note I replaced the cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires less than a year ago. Van is super sluggish, poor fuel economy, loss in power and recently won’t start and even died on the road a few times.
How much can the dwell vary With engine running? I set mine for 27, it varies from 26.5-27.5 while idling. Is that normal or does that mean I have too much wobble in the distributor shaft? I have a vibration in park at different rpm’s. I just swapped out the harmonic balancer. Seems smoother driving down the road, but still has vibration in park or neutral.
I had a random misfire issue and took the distributor cap off. It might have looked slightly rusty with some rusted dust inside but everything looked good for the most part. I put it back on, being careful to label the spark plugs to ensure everything is connected in the correct order and now when starting I sometimes get a split-second awful grinding noise initially. Is it possible that I need to replace the distributor/rotor?? Thanks.
Can a bad distributor causes white smoke that smells like too much fuel? Runs little rough but has new coil and wires, good sparks and new ICM Is a F150 1995 throws some codes but related to EGR
I accidentally removed one spark plug cable. The shortest one. I drove the car Then car stopped Put back the cable didn't help How to repair the distributor??
I have a question if that’s fine my mechanic is a good dude but he slow with finding issues I bought a high performance engine and he said he heard a popping noise the engine was checked and compression test was done but I think it’s the distributor Wht do u think
I put paint stirring sticks under my rotor, then put screw drivers on both sides between the sticks and the old rotor. Gently tap with a small hammer the screw driver handles and they will wedge the rotor up and off the shift without leaving tool marks on the distributor.
94 f150 5.0 I replaced the ignition control module and the ignition coil and new plugs and wires and now it has a misfire could that be the distributor?
Hey just wanted to say I got a 1995 f150 with a 5.0 302... Just the other day which is now 6-21-23 how to replace ignition control module and put a brand new ignition coil from AutoZone and I'm still not getting my truck to crank.. now it's not fuel pump so I'm having the same problem.! I'm thinking it could be distributed because it does work with ignition coil
I have a GMC Jimmy 2000 the distrubotor cap had all 6 pins corrodded replace cap and rotor and does not crank check the cable from the ignition coil to the distibutor and im getting spark but im not getting spark comming out what can it be ????? some help
🚨🚨I have a 1987 Chevy g20 van . I purchased a eBay distributor n put in it. I’ve replaced mostly everything new. But my issue now is when I’m driving and it rides like it should before it start’s warming up, then once warmed up I’ll drive 10 mph, 20mph and then it will want to idle up in like I’m on the interstate riding and coasting like I’m going 50, but in actuality I’m doing 35? Then when I stop at a light it runs VERY VERY LIGHT , like I can’t tell if it’s on or not. Something’s happening from when I start driving it has good power and then later it’s like very low idle too smooth. 😖 please help me.🤝
@@rahccigang1345 not yet, I’m suspecting it could be the computer, because I put on everything new, trying to troubleshoot can be difficult especially if your on a budget. What problem do you have with yours? I know I did buy a cheap distributor from eBay. I will get a new more expensive one.
I have a Joyner 650 sand spider. Put new distributor cap, new ignition coil, new plug wires and new plugs. Engine turns but not getting spark. Could it be the distributor needs to be replaced or possibly wiring? I get power to ignition coil according to my meter/tester. Side note, I couldn’t find ignition coil for the buggy but the guy at the parts store recommended a coil off a 79 F100. Both 12V so not sure if the coil could still be the issue. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I got it from a buddy that bought all new toys and didn’t want to mess with it anymore. It was all running fine till he broke the drive shaft. He took it all apart to replace the drive shaft and also did the hydraulic steering, radiator, alternator and clutch. When he put everything back together it would only turn but not fire. I have done the previously mentioned trying to trouble shoot the problem. Has brand new battery as well and plenty of juice in that to turn it. Not sure if this is worth mentioning but, when I pull it and pop the clutch it fires but as soon as I hit the gas it bogs and when the pull stops it kills. That through me off to because it sounds like a fuel issue is a possibility too.🤦🏼♂️ Probably over my head on this one and it is most likely something little and easy but I’m not seeing it. Thanks
I'm having the same problem today 6-21-23 TODAY and it's raining which is just my bad luck.. no shop either.. but my problem is when I put the new in ignition control modular and the new ignition coil I'm getting a constant instant pulsing spark? What's that about? Never seen that?
I have 4.3 v6 99 Sierra was getting random p0300 so I bought new plugs and started getting a cylinder number 2 misfire so changed out all spark plugs then got a p0300 code so I changed out distributor cap bc the distributor is new and now getting a no start just crank
Can this be my problem? I have a 2009 lincoln mkz and i have school from 7:30 to 4:30 so i wake up at 6 to warm my car but since its so cold outside it runs horrible even when my temperature gage is in the right spot and then when i try to drive it the wrench symbol comes on and theres hardly any power to the vehicle when i try to drive it. but as it starts warming up near the afternoon like around 11 or 12 it runs completely fine and the wrench symbol turns off this problem has been so difficult to deal with since me and my dad can figure out the issue.
I have a 1965 mercury comet straight 6 3.3L my problem is the car start fine and doesn’t die when is park but when I start driving after 2 miles the car dies on me. Can you give me an advice if possible thanks 🙏
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[2/2] เมาท์มอยกับ 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้ ที่พร้อมขยี้พ่อหมีได้ทุกเมื่อ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wwn7WnylNtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thats a freakin good video. Straight to the point, clear, concise. Loves the recap. Liked, subscribed.
Got a 02 Chevy express van 1500 with the 5.7 Vortec and at first thought the problem was with the Transmission Range Sensor/Neutral Safety Switch due to pulling code P0706 and P0300. Took it to a trans shop and they said that the sensor is working perfectly and that the code was old in the history. The van only has 17,000 original miles but sat on and off for a while. I figured a wire might have been chewed by a squirrel or rat but once reassured by the trans shop that the sensor was good and they the engine has a severe misfire I took it to another shop. The new shop tried to say I needed to replace the sensor (red flag) and that the distributor cap was charred and I should replace the whole distributor! (Another red flag) just curious how likely it would be that I do in fact need to replace the distributor and not just the cap and rotor being the vehicle only has 17000 miles on it. Also just to note I replaced the cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires less than a year ago. Van is super sluggish, poor fuel economy, loss in power and recently won’t start and even died on the road a few times.
It would be helpful if you showed what good and bad parts of a distributor should look like.
Tanks for the explanation. And taking your time for this.🤝🤝🙌🙌
Had the same problem. Random misfire tab on rotor keeps breaking ended up replacing distributor.
Mine leaking oil. Would this effect engine power in my b18 ir just dosent have that same pull.
If i had 5 dollars for everyone you said distributor, id still be broke
😂😂
How much can the dwell vary With engine running? I set mine for 27, it varies from 26.5-27.5 while idling. Is that normal or does that mean I have too much wobble in the distributor shaft? I have a vibration in park at different rpm’s. I just swapped out the harmonic balancer. Seems smoother driving down the road, but still has vibration in park or neutral.
I had a random misfire issue and took the distributor cap off. It might have looked slightly rusty with some rusted dust inside but everything looked good for the most part. I put it back on, being careful to label the spark plugs to ensure everything is connected in the correct order and now when starting I sometimes get a split-second awful grinding noise initially. Is it possible that I need to replace the distributor/rotor?? Thanks.
Yes the thrust bearing is bad and that sound is most likely it hitting the cam sensor
@@hannashoulders3357 Thanks for the advice. The sound went away and I later replaced the spark plug wires which finally fixed the misfire issue.
Hey brother I have a 95 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 L engine and can’t figure out if my distributor is bad after watching your video I believe it could be
Great simple info !👍🏻
Thank you!
98 toyota 4 runner idles perfectly, but as soon as you put it in gear no power and lots of backfires. Could that still be a Distributor?
Can a bad distributor causes white smoke that smells like too much fuel?
Runs little rough but has new coil and wires, good sparks and new ICM
Is a F150 1995 throws some codes but related to EGR
I accidentally removed one spark plug cable.
The shortest one.
I drove the car
Then car stopped
Put back the cable didn't help
How to repair the distributor??
My car 1994 jeep cherokee will not turn over. Just cranks only! Gonna try this out
I have a question if that’s fine my mechanic is a good dude but he slow with finding issues I bought a high performance engine and he said he heard a popping noise the engine was checked and compression test was done but I think it’s the distributor Wht do u think
Hard to know without actually hearing the popping noise, could have been a misfire due to distributor tho
My rotor is stuck on and will
Not come off with my bare strength what are the suggestions
I put paint stirring sticks under my rotor, then put screw drivers on both sides between the sticks and the old rotor. Gently tap with a small hammer the screw driver handles and they will wedge the rotor up and off the shift without leaving tool marks on the distributor.
I sprayed my engine with water and now truck wont start it just cranks and makes pop noises is this distributor???
How long will a stock distributor typically last? My dodge 5.9 magnum has 182k feeling its time
Would it cause a false start?
Could be, could be a fuel issue aswell as battery
94 f150 5.0 I replaced the ignition control module and the ignition coil and new plugs and wires and now it has a misfire could that be the distributor?
Yes and also check the camshaft sensor
@@alonsozuniga91I have a question? The camshaft sensor those numbers crank pulley? Isn't that where you use a timing light?
Hey just wanted to say I got a 1995 f150 with a 5.0 302... Just the other day which is now 6-21-23 how to replace ignition control module and put a brand new ignition coil from AutoZone and I'm still not getting my truck to crank.. now it's not fuel pump so I'm having the same problem.! I'm thinking it could be distributed because it does work with ignition coil
@@athensboy123I have same truck and currently having same issue you figure it out?
I have a GMC Jimmy 2000 the distrubotor cap had all 6 pins corrodded replace cap and rotor and does not crank check the cable from the ignition coil to the distibutor and im getting spark but im not getting spark comming out what can it be ????? some help
🚨🚨I have a 1987 Chevy g20 van . I purchased a eBay distributor n put in it. I’ve replaced mostly everything new. But my issue now is when I’m driving and it rides like it should before it start’s warming up, then once warmed up I’ll drive 10 mph, 20mph and then it will want to idle up in like I’m on the interstate riding and coasting like I’m going 50, but in actuality I’m doing 35? Then when I stop at a light it runs VERY VERY LIGHT , like I can’t tell if it’s on or not. Something’s happening from when I start driving it has good power and then later it’s like very low idle too smooth. 😖 please help me.🤝
Did you ever find out if it was the distributor?
@@rahccigang1345 not yet, I’m suspecting it could be the computer, because I put on everything new, trying to troubleshoot can be difficult especially if your on a budget. What problem do you have with yours? I know I did buy a cheap distributor from eBay. I will get a new more expensive one.
I have a Joyner 650 sand spider. Put new distributor cap, new ignition coil, new plug wires and new plugs. Engine turns but not getting spark. Could it be the distributor needs to be replaced or possibly wiring? I get power to ignition coil according to my meter/tester. Side note, I couldn’t find ignition coil for the buggy but the guy at the parts store recommended a coil off a 79 F100. Both 12V so not sure if the coil could still be the issue. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
It could be any of those things. Was it working before replacing all the parts? You could swap them back in one at a time to see which is the issue.
I got it from a buddy that bought all new toys and didn’t want to mess with it anymore. It was all running fine till he broke the drive shaft. He took it all apart to replace the drive shaft and also did the hydraulic steering, radiator, alternator and clutch. When he put everything back together it would only turn but not fire. I have done the previously mentioned trying to trouble shoot the problem. Has brand new battery as well and plenty of juice in that to turn it.
Not sure if this is worth mentioning but, when I pull it and pop the clutch it fires but as soon as I hit the gas it bogs and when the pull stops it kills. That through me off to because it sounds like a fuel issue is a possibility too.🤦🏼♂️
Probably over my head on this one and it is most likely something little and easy but I’m not seeing it.
Thanks
Dude i just got mine replaced and im still getting misfire on cylinder #3
400$ dwn the drain
Double check the firing order. It is easy to get two spark plug wires off which will cause issues.
I'm having the same problem today 6-21-23 TODAY and it's raining which is just my bad luck.. no shop either.. but my problem is when I put the new in ignition control modular and the new ignition coil I'm getting a constant instant pulsing spark? What's that about? Never seen that?
These jeeps are a pain in the as!!!!
I have 4.3 v6 99 Sierra was getting random p0300 so I bought new plugs and started getting a cylinder number 2 misfire so changed out all spark plugs then got a p0300 code so I changed out distributor cap bc the distributor is new and now getting a no start just crank
having the same exact problem did you figure out the problem
@@blshotlexusjay9537 cracked cylinder heads did myself a favor and cut my loses sold the truck
Crankshaft position sensor, it's at the botto. behind the harmonic balancer, good luck!
@@ElPadrino610 one of the 1st things I did was replaced my crank sensor wasn’t that ez of fix for me
Can this be my problem? I have a 2009 lincoln mkz and i have school from 7:30 to 4:30 so i wake up at 6 to warm my car but since its so cold outside it runs horrible even when my temperature gage is in the right spot and then when i try to drive it the wrench symbol comes on and theres hardly any power to the vehicle when i try to drive it. but as it starts warming up near the afternoon like around 11 or 12 it runs completely fine and the wrench symbol turns off this problem has been so difficult to deal with since me and my dad can figure out the issue.
Me lchanic told my wife she needs to fix distribution every 30000 miles for $600. Is she being scammed?
distributor for my car is around a $90 part, and it'll take no more than 15 min to replace. that's just my car tho, so do with that info what you will
I am Stranded. No money. I have to replace distributor on 97 nissan sentra.
I have a 1965 mercury comet straight 6 3.3L my problem is the car start fine and doesn’t die when is park but when I start driving after 2 miles the car dies on me. Can you give me an advice if possible thanks 🙏
Thank you. ❤
I sprayed my engine with water and now truck wont start it just cranks and makes pop noises is this distributor???
I sprayed my engine with water and now truck wont start it just cranks and makes pop noises is this distributor???
I sprayed my engine with water and now truck wont start it just cranks and makes pop noises is this distributor???
I sprayed my engine with water and now truck wont start it just cranks and makes pop noises is this distributor???
Maybe try taking of the distributor cap, could have lots of water and making the connection bad
I sprayed my engine with water and now truck wont start it just cranks and makes pop noises is this distributor???
Let it dry out and it will likely start.
It's been a day and truck no longer mis fires but still doesnt start
You figure this out?
@@THEMOUSTACHEGUY3545 nope but truck is in shop now and was told I might have damaged my Ecm when spraying with water