Faster CR10 Prints
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ย. 2019
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In this video I show an experiment on printing faster. I printed at 180mm/s, 140, 100, and 60, to show the differences in time printed.
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Dear god, you've saved me the risk of testing myself. Was pushing my stuff to 80 and being worried. Did a stormtrooper helm at 140 with almost no issues and saved me a ton of time! You're the best!
OMG another 3D Printer "guru"! You are a dope!!!! CHANGE THE ACCELERATION!!!
Due to acceleration and jerk you will cap out before you reach the max speed.
is that why?! thanks!!! lets connect offline and you can teach me!!
@@NikkoIndustries id be glad to but i dont know the actual math involved. I just know from experience on my ender 3s. But if you think about it scaled up. Say you can take your car dowm a 1/4 mile track with a 4 cylinder at hit 60 if you use a v8 you will probably hit 90. Its because of the acceleration power of the engine vs the distance traveled. Your tests may have slight diffrences but unless you have high speed recording to review you wont know if a machine paused at diffrent points which changed their print times.
@@NikkoIndustries i do love your videos and designs will you take a commision for a helmet? And if so whats your starting price before we talk about it?
@@coffinsnail6930 yea! Let's chat offline. Nikko. Props@gmail.com
@@NikkoIndustries If you want to reliably print fast, there are multiple things you need to address. On the software and firmware side, you need to dial in your extruder e-steps, and jerk or linear accelleration. You need to up travel speed. You also need to adapte retraction speeds to the printing speed you're seeking to achieve. You need to tune the printing speed sub-parameters - just default, a very large portion of your print (as there's little internal structure beyond support) is printing at highly reduced fractions of you "primary print speed".
To support these, you also need to address the hardware side. On the business end, you really should consider a volcano hotend or similar. Stock can't really keep up well with those speeds. You should also consider a dual gear extruder. A dual gear direct extruder might be beneficial; less time spent on retraction and refeed. But the trade off is head weight, adding more inertia to overcome.
As a final step, you might want to consider a lighter bed surface than glass.
the big issue with the first test was about length of travels, when you consider having to accelerate, slow down, travel etc. the cubes dont have enough space, the helmet would totally have more travel spaces.
another good thing to enable if youre self flashing marlin is something call S_CURVE - helps calculate the movements better and can help smooth out prints.
and THIS is why i make videos!! thanks for the commend dude!! learned something today!!
It seems pretty clear to me that your printers aren't actually doing the speeds you're setting them to, either because of volumetric flow limits or because of acceleration limits
Because of low acceleration and jerk, the travel distances aren't enough to reach the high speeds...
I'm going to have to try this. I just bought a cr10s and my first big print is your Mando helmet. It's 1 day into a 6 day print! It's probably didn't need support in the centre but I don't trust new printers for a while!! XD
I just bought a CR-10 v2 for the same reason. I've attempted the mando print twice with no success but it got better with some tweaks the second time around. I had trouble with adhering to the base. Do you have any suggestions on the layer print speed as well as the first layer print speed?
Love your videos! Just subscribed...I thought I was pushing my Mando helmet at 75! ;-) ...it's still printing.
You really have that printer dialed in, great looking prints!
Surley your outside wall settings are what slows all the cubes down to the same times and on complicated objects u need to take into account support speeds also....I would immagin max speed is going to be infill only over long legths/distances.
Do you have any tips on how to start making helmets how-do-you-do it? What is your process how do you know how big to make the helmet? What software do you use it doesn't tell you how big the item is say in inches or millimetres
Would you recommend the ender 5 plus? I would save money getting the cr 10 but i heard the ender 5 is more stable
Good to see you posting more videos! What temps are you using for ZYLtech PLA? I have one of their Texas Sized rolls that has heat creep issues with my all metal hotend...other brands are printing fine at 190-200.
thanks man! good to be back! i print zyltech PLA at 210
Hey Nikko,
I was wondering if the supports you used for the Mandalorian helmet were manual inserts or not? Thank you in advance!
Well I’m gonna jump on this bandwagon and crank my speed up. First print is printing and of course I used the free mando coin you gave me. I’ll see what it looks like when I get home from work 😁
Cool video, what layer height you use for the helmets?
Dont higher speeds shorten the the overall life of the printer whether it be from belts getting worn down or the motors going out?
Sem desligar a redução de velocidade na aba speed, não estará imprimindo na velocidade selecionada. Está na média de 60mms.
I'm ready to print a Mando helmet at 0.16 mm, I want to try this 100mm/s speed, any special prep I need to do before I print?
Nikko what size nozzle are you using to print helmets? thanks for all your help!!
Nikko not sure if you'll see this but do you think these speeds will work for all prints or just helmets because of the circular pattern?
There isn't much difference because there is not much speed difference. Look at @1:51 - look at the colors and then look at the legend. Compare all the cubes, all the same, only infill and top/bottom will go a little faster. Need to increase the perimeter speed.
thank you thank you thank you , ... i was printing at 25mm/s lmao, you helped me a lot
Started printing all my parts at 80mm/s. Now I want to test them out at higher speeds. But would need to be on larger items to see it being worth it.
I'm still trying to play with the speeds. Calculation is difficult and time consuming
Does anybody know how to fix the support.. Trying to print a helmet but support is missing so i get a faulty print.. Cr10 cura stock version
How is it that your print is 1d 20h, but in mine it's 6d 10h? I'm printing at .2mm, 60mm/s and only 110% of your print's size. Any suggestions? Using Cura, so not sure what the difference is between that and S3D for print time. No center supports either.
what diameter nozzle are you using? i'm using a .6mm with only 2 perimeters
@@NikkoIndustries I was using .4mm I believe. I switched to .6 but it was a bit meh.
@@NikkoIndustries I'm using .4mm but I think it's the scaling :P Looks like your's is a wee bit smaller
Any improvements on printing fast with the cr10?
So I did this on my CR-10 S4 and ended up with some slipping in the print where it made sort of steps in the helmet like everything started shifting forward out of alignment halfway through the print..... Can you please help?
Either your X axis (bed) stepper can't keep up and is missing steps, or your belt is too loose.
Awesome man, I was usually print at 65/70 tops, now printing 100mm/s as normal speed :P and obviously will check and if ok use 120/130mm/s until make sure everything is still ok:P
Thanks
Wouldn't minimum layer time be a big limiting factor?
Are you using a different size nozzle? I currently have the stock one (0.4).
I use a .6mm
Based off print times id say 100 was your top speed.
cant seem to change the default speed on superslicer.. its locked
I guess it because of the size but cura is estimating 6 days to print 🙃, with supports similar to yours 5% infill at 100% speed
Hi Jordan. I also use Cura and I have a Creality 10s. Did you get a chance to print it? And if so, how did it come out?
Hello Nikko, how are you doing? Can you tell me what size nozzle that you are using?
this one is a .5mm nozzle
@@NikkoIndustries thank you so much I'm using a 8 mm. Is there a big difference?
@@ratstarone 62% - .8 is 62% larger than .5
In practical terms - the larger the nozzle the more round your corners. You can't get a sharp corner on a 1mm nozzle for example. On corners tighter than 90° you can expect to see gaps - because you can't take a .8 nozzle and make it shove into a .6 hole. The tighter the corner and bigger the nozzle the larger the gap
Bruh, turn the print UPSIDE DOWN and save ALL of that infill material, for cryin' out loud. Remember when your geometry teacher was talking about "seeing in space"? Let me remind you ;* Other than that, thanks for the video and effort!
I almost forgot Happy Thanksgiving bro
Happy Thanksgiving pal
Dude, in order to increase speed you dont just crank the overall print speed and that's it !!!! there is a LOT other things to consider like outter wall speed, inner wall speed, infill speed, cooling wait time, top ,buttom and much much other things to do, and yes all will affect the speed of the print and you need to tune all these things in order to get a nice print with faster speed.
Where did you get those print plans?
My website. www.nikkoindustries.com/shop
Any chance you can share your profile with us so we can test out your settings?
What is your bed temp at?
i have never dared go above 65 and then i saw this lol
Do you have a profile for your prints? I'm having issues getting my prints to look as good as yours. What temperature and layer height are you printing at?
Yup! It's on my website. Go to NikkoIndustries.com and go to the profiles section
@@NikkoIndustries Great! Thank you!
I may have missed it, but what is the nozzle size on these?
.6mm
Have you run this experiment with the .4?
@@chadsine3814 I have not
Would that destroy the printer at those speeds?
good question man... i'll keep doing it and let you know hahahaha
I'm about to watch this video, IF I FIND OUT THAT I AM A MORON FOR PRINTING AT 50MM/S FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS TO MAKE GOOD PRINTS AND CAN DO IT MUCH QUICKER, I'M JUMPING OFF A BRIDGE
What was the layer height you went with? And did you play with the cooling fan settings as I can see layer adhesion being an issue
Layer adhesion wasn't an issue at all. It was at .2mm
Trying to print with Cura. It says 13 days. So I’m not going to do that. Can you help please.
did you put supports in the center? how fast are you printing?
CR10S4 stock will never go over 60
Joel over at 3d printing nerd just did a video on printing your helmet with no internal support and remote monitoring while he was on the road. Looked good.
th-cam.com/video/_1lhFqJh0vg/w-d-xo.html