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Perfect explanation and demonstration of the compression and exhaust strokes and TDC and the valve adjustment itself. I've got a double OHV 44 series Briggs and the valve screws are a little different. The outer nut holds the position and the screw tightens the gap. A bit harder to fumble around with since the nut doesn't extend up very high to easily hold it. Maybe I'll get an extra box wrench and grind the walls down thin so I can fit it in there next time.
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My 2018 motor manual says for my 18.5 HP Briggs and Stratton motor intake valve set on 4 but exhaust valve set on 6 . Is it common for two different sets
As I said in the first minute of the video, the valve lash may be different from model to model. I tend to make the valve lash a little tight because they seem to get larger as they run and wear. Do what you feel is correct for your machine.
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Thanks for the great video. I have the same engine in my Craftsman 42 inch lawn tractor but the manual shows clearances of .003 - .005 for intake and .005 - .007 on the exhaust. I have been using .004 on the intake as an average but I use .006 on the exhaust but you suggest using .004 on both. My question is why are you not setting the exhaust to the larger setting or do you find that it doesn't make much difference? Thanks in advance!
I have noticed through the years of doing this that the clearances loosen up and the exhaust runs so hot that it loosens up a little more so I use 4 on both. It works for me. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please tell your friends about my channel and give it a like to help my channel. It would be greatly appreciated!
hanks for sharing. Question: so if piston is full visible does that mean that valves are ready for adjustment. (can a light be use to see the piston position ) please correct me if wrong. Again thanks and God Bles
A surge in the engine normally means the engine is running lean. The engine can also surge if the engine is over reving . Most of the time it is a lean condition. Check to make sure the fuel is flowing good from the tank to the carburetor. If all that checks out, you most likely will need a new carburetor. Only buy an original manufacturer carburetor if you don’t want headaches of a aftermarket.
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Great video, im just curious. I set mine exactly as instructed here and after im done if i rotate engine the exhaust valve at closed state can get up to like quarter inch valve lash. But if i go back to TDC on compression it is .004. is this normal?
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines My dad put a new decompression cam in and this is what happened after we got it all back together. So something happened during that.
The decompression cam will make the valve open a little bit so engine will decompress but 1/4” is a bit much. It should be more like 1/16th. It’s not much. I’m not sure of the exact measurement. Let me know how you make out. Im curious. I have never had this issue. Did you purchase Briggs and Stratton cam or was it aftermarket?
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines it was an aftermarket cam. It had lots of good reviews. Also it's not the decompression bump that is 1/4 inch it's when i take the valve cover off after trying it. Also i get some major backfires some out of exhaust and some big ones out of carb.
Yep, definitely a valve issue. Double check to make sure your on the compression stroke when adjusting the valves.You should feel a puff of air coming out of the spark plug hole when the piston is coming up to top dead on the compression stroke. Put a piece of tissue paper on top of the hole to see. I wonder if the cam lobes are incorrect. Or a tappet or valve sticking. Where do live? State?
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Correct me if I am wrong, but I put my finger in the spark plug hole and let the compression in the cylinder push my finger off the hole to find the compression stroke [the intake stroke will suck your finger onto the plug hole].
Without the spark plug out, you will have suction on the intake stroke and the power stroke. You should feel more suction on the power stroke because both valves are shut. Same as you will feel air blow out on the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke but more on the compression stroke as both valves are closed. Top dead center is on the compression stroke with both valves closed with piston moving up.
It's exactly the opposite of cars on which I have adjusted the valves; on those the nut is what locks things down and the adjustment/clearance is obtained by turning the centre screw. Am I correct in stating that it is better to have the valve clearance a bit loose then too tight?
Cars and small engines are different in many ways. 30 plus years performing valves adjustments on small engines and never had a valve too tight that I had to loosen them. They have always needed to be adjusted tighter so I adjust accordingly and all is good.
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Does it matter if you turn engine clockwise on counter clockwise? I think my engine turns over clockwise when starting it. Briggs and Stratton OVH 19.5 hp.
Im glad it was helpful and thank you for the kind content. Please give this video a like, subscribe if you haven’t already and share my channel to help it grow. It would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for watching:)
I have a husky mower with same or similar engine and I'm having a problem where it only starts when cold. When it is warm it has to much compression for the starter motor. I was hoping ajusting valves would help, it runs better now but still same problem. Any ideas?
I would first check to make sure the battery is ok and check to make sure the charging system is working. If that is ok, then pull the spark plug when your have the issue to make sure your not loading up the cylinder will fuel. You make have a carburetor issue leaking fuel into the cylinder when engine is hot. Rare but can happen. Don’t come across that much at all and can not remember the last time I did. Normally if the engine has too much compression, it will be all the time and that would be a bad compression release on the cam inside the engine. I will have a video out on the cam issue in the next day or two.
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Your the only video I've seen where you leave the feeler gauge in when you tighten it all the other vids they take it out for some reason then tighten the lock nut. I've always kept it in cause I felt it was necessary to keep it at the measurement you want
Every body does it there own way. Bottom line is just get the clearances correct! It’s just easy for me to do it that way. Thank you for watching and commenting. Please give this video a thumbs up if you liked it!
Thank you. I’m glad it was helpful. Please give this a thumbs up, subscribe and tell your friends to help my channel grow. It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for watching and the kind comment:)
Excellent video. I had to set the valve clearances on my B&S snow blower engine after changing 3 gaskets. This video made it simple.
Hi Greg, I’m glad this was helpful and thank you for the kind comment. Please give this video a like, subscribe and tell your friends about my channel. It would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you for watching:)
Perfect explanation and demonstration of the compression and exhaust strokes and TDC and the valve adjustment itself. I've got a double OHV 44 series Briggs and the valve screws are a little different. The outer nut holds the position and the screw tightens the gap. A bit harder to fumble around with since the nut doesn't extend up very high to easily hold it. Maybe I'll get an extra box wrench and grind the walls down thin so I can fit it in there next time.
I’m glad it was helpful and thank you for the kind comment. Please give this a like and tell your friends to help my channel grow. It would be greatly appreciated.
hey man nice video that was pretty impressive seeing you holding a wrench with your arm dont give up man
Thanks for the kind comment! Will do:)
Great job, don't let anything or anyone hold you back!
Thank you! Will do :)
Great explanation, thanks!! Now I have got to find a .004 tool mine only goes down to .005
My 2018 motor manual says for my 18.5 HP Briggs and Stratton motor intake valve set on 4 but exhaust valve set on 6 . Is it common for two different sets
As I said in the first minute of the video, the valve lash may be different from model to model. I tend to make the valve lash a little tight because they seem to get larger as they run and wear. Do what you feel is correct for your machine.
Best valve adjustment off all great detail
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Thank you so much for the instructional video. It's clean and concise. I just subscribed.
I’m glad it was helpful. Thank you for the kind comment and supporting my channel.
La idea
perfect, well done! exact same thing for an old school, air cooled vw
I’m glad it was helpful and thank you for the kind comment.
Thanks for the great video. I have the same engine in my Craftsman 42 inch lawn tractor but the manual shows clearances of .003 - .005 for intake and .005 - .007 on the exhaust. I have been using .004 on the intake as an average but I use .006 on the exhaust but you suggest using .004 on both.
My question is why are you not setting the exhaust to the larger setting or do you find that it doesn't make much difference? Thanks in advance!
I have noticed through the years of doing this that the clearances loosen up and the exhaust runs so hot that it loosens up a little more so I use 4 on both. It works for me. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please tell your friends about my channel and give it a like to help my channel. It would be greatly appreciated!
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines Your explanation makes sense so I will follow your lead. Thanks again!
hanks for sharing. Question: so if piston is full visible does that mean that valves are ready for adjustment. (can a light be use to see the piston position ) please correct me if wrong. Again thanks and God Bles
The piston has to be at top center on the compression stroke as stated.
Will loose valves call my B&S 19 horse to surge? I've already gone through the carburetor so I feel confident about that.
A surge in the engine normally means the engine is running lean. The engine can also surge if the engine is over reving . Most of the time it is a lean condition. Check to make sure the fuel is flowing good from the tank to the carburetor. If all that checks out, you most likely will need a new carburetor. Only buy an original manufacturer carburetor if you don’t want headaches of a aftermarket.
Thanks for sharing. Very helpful. Awesome!
I’m glad it was helpful! Thank you for the kind comment.
Very nice video brother! Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you so much, excellent presentation
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Great video, im just curious. I set mine exactly as instructed here and after im done if i rotate engine the exhaust valve at closed state can get up to like quarter inch valve lash. But if i go back to TDC on compression it is .004. is this normal?
That is Not normal, you may have other issues. I cannot say what that would be without seeing the engine.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines My dad put a new decompression cam in and this is what happened after we got it all back together. So something happened during that.
The decompression cam will make the valve open a little bit so engine will decompress but 1/4” is a bit much. It should be more like 1/16th. It’s not much. I’m not sure of the exact measurement. Let me know how you make out. Im curious. I have never had this issue. Did you purchase Briggs and Stratton cam or was it aftermarket?
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines it was an aftermarket cam. It had lots of good reviews. Also it's not the decompression bump that is 1/4 inch it's when i take the valve cover off after trying it. Also i get some major backfires some out of exhaust and some big ones out of carb.
Yep, definitely a valve issue. Double check to make sure your on the compression stroke when adjusting the valves.You should feel a puff of air coming out of the spark plug hole when the piston is coming up to top dead on the compression stroke. Put a piece of tissue paper on top of the hole to see. I wonder if the cam lobes are incorrect. Or a tappet or valve sticking. Where do live? State?
Thank you for your videos! You are 😎 awesome.
Glad you like them! and thank you for watching :)
Great instructions!!
I'm glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and the kind comment. Please give this video a like and share my channel to help it grow. It would be greatly appreciated!
Correct me if I am wrong, but I put my finger in the spark plug hole and let the compression in the cylinder push my finger off the hole to find the compression stroke [the intake stroke will suck your finger onto the plug hole].
Without the spark plug out, you will have suction on the intake stroke and the power stroke. You should feel more suction on the power stroke because both valves are shut. Same as you will feel air blow out on the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke but more on the compression stroke as both valves are closed. Top dead center is on the compression stroke with both valves closed with piston moving up.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines So I was right ???
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines Would a compression gauge be useful in finding the TDC of the compression stroke?
It's exactly the opposite of cars on which I have adjusted the valves; on those the nut is what locks things down and the adjustment/clearance is obtained by turning the centre screw. Am I correct in stating that it is better to have the valve clearance a bit loose then too tight?
Cars and small engines are different in many ways. 30 plus years performing valves adjustments on small engines and never had a valve too tight that I had to loosen them. They have always needed to be adjusted tighter so I adjust accordingly and all is good.
perfect video , many thanks
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Does it matter if you turn engine clockwise on counter clockwise? I think my engine turns over clockwise when starting it. Briggs and Stratton OVH 19.5 hp.
It doesn’t matter which way you turn the engine when adjusting the valves as long as you are at the correct spot on stroke.
Love it brother,thank you for your help eh!
I’m glad it was helpful and thank you for the kind comment!
Awesome show thanks😊😊
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Great detailed video, thanks again!!!
Glad you liked it! Thank you for the kind comment and for watching..
Great video
Works !!
I’m glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and commenting.
I have a husky mower with same or similar engine and I'm having a problem where it only starts when cold. When it is warm it has to much compression for the starter motor. I was hoping ajusting valves would help, it runs better now but still same problem. Any ideas?
I would first check to make sure the battery is ok and check to make sure the charging system is working. If that is ok, then pull the spark plug when your have the issue to make sure your not loading up the cylinder will fuel. You make have a carburetor issue leaking fuel into the cylinder when engine is hot. Rare but can happen. Don’t come across that much at all and can not remember the last time I did. Normally if the engine has too much compression, it will be all the time and that would be a bad compression release on the cam inside the engine. I will have a video out on the cam issue in the next day or two.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines alright, thanks.
Thanks for the instruction !
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Your the only video I've seen where you leave the feeler gauge in when you tighten it all the other vids they take it out for some reason then tighten the lock nut. I've always kept it in cause I felt it was necessary to keep it at the measurement you want
Every body does it there own way. Bottom line is just get the clearances correct! It’s just easy for me to do it that way. Thank you for watching and commenting. Please give this video a thumbs up if you liked it!
It makes sense to leave it.
Good video
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@@JohnsonsSmallEngines will do
Thank you mate 👍👍👍
I’m glad it was helpful! Your very welcome:)
Thanks Sir Please keep up the good work man Thanks again
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excellent ..... to the point
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