another additional double check is is to observe where the flywheel magnet is in relation to the coil/ignition module. If the magnet is not even close to the coil/ignition module, then you are NOT at top dead center. The compression stroke phase in a 4 cycle engine means that top dead center happens in TIME with the ignition. Watch how the magnet rotates closer and close to the coil/ignition module when the piston is pushing into compression...this is how you KNOW with PRECISION that the piston IS IN THE COMPRESSION CYCLE. . What I have found to be very helpful is to continue to move the piston past top dead center, and then just as it starts to move back down into the cylinder, this is the most optimal spot to do a valve clearance/gap/lash. The reason for this is two fold: a. most modern 4 stroke engines have a decompression mechanism. This decompression mechanism actually holds the BOTH valves open just slightly at top dead center. If you try to set valve clearance exactly at top dead center, then the valves will not actually be correctly gapped. b. You really want the valves completely closed during ignition...and this happens just as the magnet rotates to the leading "ARM" coil/ignition module. Ignition happens very quickly right at top dead center, not before, and not after. If the valves are opened too soon, then you will have engine performance issues. By slightly rotating the flywheel so that top dead center has already passed and the piston is just barely starting to move back down, you will notice the magnet has passed BY the first "arm" of the coil/ignition module. This means the ignition spark has already happened. And THAT is the right timing for valve clearance...(and you avoid the decompression mechanism problem stated above). I learned this through trial and error. I used a tachometer light. When I had initially set my valve and timing. I noticed that the ilde was not as smooth...I painted a timing mark on the flywheel. The timing light showed the mark dancing quite a bit back and forth. But when I set the valves just AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER and made sure the magnet had moved just slightly past the first arm, the timing strobe experiment showed great improvement. The timing mark did not erratically dance and the engine was silky smooth. Having a timing light is a great tool to have by the way. It can also help you find out other problems too, like keyway/woodruff key damaged...or a bad coil. Or spark plug problems. or a head gasket problem. A timing light, similar to how to properly use a leak down test, shows you the state of performance of your ignition health. it can reveal things that no other tool can, and is pretty simple to understand. God Bless America
Maybe you can answer this question: I have a Honda FR700 rototiller and it began to miss and backfire, got progressively worse until it wouldn't start at all. I have replaced the coil twice and even replaced the points with a universal ignition module. Still won't start and no spark occurs. I hooked up a timing light to the plug wire to see if I was getting spark. No light from the timing light. Can a magnet fail? The magnet is located on the internal rim of the flywheel. It still acts like a magnet when I put something up against it. It is odd that it got progressively worse rather than a complete failure at once. I'm stumped as to what is preventing it from firing. There's not that much to the ignition system.
@@BeanieandCecil I would think something is grounded. like the sparkplug cable or the shut off wire that attaches to the coil. read it with a meter to ground. but I could be completely wrong.
This is the one of the best tips I've seen on determining when you're at TDC on the compression stroke. So glad I checked out MM1 before adjusting my valves! Cheers.
Briggs 31P777 involves what you mention at the end during valve adjustment. They want the piston to go about 1/4" in after being top dead center. Nice walkthrough! Haven't seen a video showing the piston inside the spark plug chamber. Getting ready to do this for the first time, but nervous and doing tons of research lol. Don't want to have to go back in to adjust after a fresh oil change.
I learned years ago when referring to “top dead center “on any four cycle engine meant that the piston has reached the top of the stroke before the ignition/power stroke only. However, Vanguard engine manufacturers recommends dropping piston 1/4” past tdc when setting valve lash on all their big block v- twin engines.
You are correct. Take valve cover off and all spark plugs out so you can watch the valves and KNOW you are on compression stroke. Briggs does say to go 1/4" past TDC but that can be on all engines. It only makes sense that both valves need to be closed during power stroke and the currect time to check tappet clearance. Check clearance before loosening anything. Great video.
@@philliphall5198 Yea, I’ve never understood people doing this at TDC. I grew up in a shop. Been twisting wrenches for 40 years. I’ve always adjusted valves while the other was wide open. Never had a problem.
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 He asked why not do it the easy way and you just replied basically 'do it the hard way'. Does that response make sense to you? Did you misunderstand the question?
I like to put two white timing marks on the top of the engine to make it easier to find TDC. The stationary one goes on the engine case and the other one goes on the rotating screen where the cooling air gets sucked in. After I find TDC the first time the marks make it easier to find it again later on. You can even find TDC without having to remove the spark plug and look inside the hole.
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I know. All I'm saying is that its easier to locate TDC if you have a external, visual reference rather than having to find TDC by looking at the piston through the spark plug hole.
What about when the piston is at the bottom of the compression stroke or half-way through the compression stroke? Wouldn't the valves still be closed then?
I've wasted far too much time worrying about finding TDC. Just rotate the engine until one of the valves is open, adjust the other one that is closed. Then, rotate the engine until the valve you adjusted is open and work on the other one. Done. No removing the spark plug, no piston position observation, etc. The whole point of piston observation is to find TDC so both valves are closed when you adjust them. If you're off a little, or by 180 degrees, your adjustment will be wrong. Save time and worry, do it the easier way.
That method is is incorrect. one valve open stays open for a long time during therotation of the crank, the valve you’re trying to adjust, may not be on the base circle of the cam, which will give you an incorrect reading. Always find top center It’s quick and easy.
❤ great video brother have you ever did any work on the new V-Twin igx800 by Honda? I have one with around 120 hours and it is lightweight surging but also it is losing power when we put a load on the 10 gallon a minute pressure pump we changed all the throttle body gasket intake gaskets the oil we had to replace the rectifier and someone told me that it might be the coil when it gets hot gets weak? If you have any suggestions or solutions to this we would really appreciate it thank you for the time it took you to put this great video together❤❤
I have a motorcycle with a engine similar.. and yes I lashed the valves in the wrong stroke.. it will kinda start but not run very long.. and I have to be giving it almost half throttle at that…
I been doing m for years n found for me it's easier on tdc exhaust stroke Rock crank till ex opens, adjust int Rock crank till int opens, adjust ex Cos decompressor on tdc comp stroke means you have to send piston over centre by 6mm n that's just a hassle But don't let me confuse the newbie's, if you do it often enough, you'll work out what I mean. GT'S RUNNING REPAIRS OZ
I have a 13 hp Honda clone. It’s on a splitter from a family member that let it set for years. I replaced the carb , plug, and coil. It had the cylinder filled with a dirt dauber nest of mud. They went up the exhaust. I cleaned the cylinder and changed the oil. I got it to hit once on starter fluid. I have spark. Any suggestions? I did torque the head when I put it back. I just got a feeler gauge to check the gap. Just running out of ideas.
I took the governor off my kt196 go kart. Worked fine before, just slow. I just put the engine back on the frame and now when I pull the pull string it’s impossible to pull. It snaps back. If I take the spark plug out it pulls fine. Thoughts?
@@ofner13 When you remove the plugs you've got no compression and you're pulling against no resistance. If it won't pull with the plugs in check the valve set. If it's a Briggs it has a compression release and the compression release won't work if the valves aren't set right.
My bike has Line mark for TDC,i aligned it and adjusted both valves as the manual says,now the engine is ticking even more,do you know what it could be ?
OK, I'm a decent mechanic so I think I know how to do this. Never had a problem w/with engines but for some reason I get to TDC on comp stroke, set both valves correctly, check them again, and still I get the engine locking up when I try to start it. It WILL start fine if the engine wasn't right at the comp stroke, but when I start it and the engine is about TDC it will only turn a tiny bit and stop. I have to manually rotate the fly wheel, then it will start since it's now past the comp stage. I know what you're thinking... I don't have the valves adjusted correctly, but they are. this is very frustrating... any ideas? Some people say to turn the engine about a quarter turn past TDC, then set the valves. thoughts??? THANKS!!
This is really valuable info that no one on other videos showing how to adjust valves ever mentioned. I will soon be adjusting valves for the first time and was aware that the piston had to be TDC but I did not know about intake stroke TDC only .
Great video I got a 22hp briggs vtwin its on a 2014 model john deere d140 rider it's got 214 hrs on it and it runs great but I noticed the valves are ticky would you say they needed and adjustment mower medic 1? I believe jd recommends it at 200hrs I just wish I was confident enough to do it, never done it before. Wrench on the regular but never had to do it as of yet. Any recommendations for a first time valve lasher 🤣
My guy My kawasaki just started smoking white and blue smoke no stop its on a BaD boy mower .put oil in no leaks but keeps going empty..fr730v? Would you be able to give me your input it will help a lot been running around for 4 days trying to figure this out
So having one valve completely open to adjust the other valve is not the proper way? I assumed if one valve is completely open, the other should be completely closed allowing for adjustment.
Check your work both ways and the lash drag will be the same. TDC on comp stroke (after air blows past your finger in the spark plug hole and then using a dowel or screwdriver in the hole watching for the highest movement) with both valves closed set the lash. Then check rotating engine until one valve is completely open and set the other valve then repeat for the other valve and you will get the same feeler gauge drag. IMO your wasting your time with TDC. The manual says to do it with TDC on comp stroke so you can save time and adjust both valves at the same time. Both ways are just as accurate as the other. When one valve is fully open (spring compressed) then the other is fully closed. On a car the best method is the EOIC method. Whether you have a solid or hydraulic cam. I started setting solid lifter lashes on my Z28 since 1974. Whoever wrote the procedure for setting solid lifter by setting 4 valves at each 1/2 rotation (180*) is not 100% accurate. Sure I did it this way for many yrs until my engine builder who built race engines for decades corrected me with his 90* rotation method. But, as always, you do what you want. For hydraulic valves, the best way is to set valves when the engine is at operating temp and RUNNING. If you have an old set of steel valves covers, partially cut the top open to get your ratchet in to adjust the valve. Loosen the nut until the rocker arm starts to chatter, the tighten until the chatter stops, wait 10 sec, then turn nut 1/2 turn more. GM Dealers set them 3/4 turn down so you wouldn’t come back complaining about noisy lifters. Racers set them 1/4 turn down. When assembling a new hydraulic cam engine or replacing parts then when setting the lash cold, do not spin the push rod. Instead check for zero lash by moving the push rod up and down cause it’s more accurate. Then from zero lash which is when the slack is all out, turn the adjusting nut to your desired setting. Once fired up and on an engine with a cam already broke in, set lifters while the engine is running. On a solid lifter cam, it’s very hard to get the correct drag on a feeler gauge when the rocker arm is pounding down on the gauge. I always set my lash cold and not running because my lash did not change when the engine was hot and when the lash was checked the next day. So no more hot burning oil on my hands.
Wow dude thanks so much. Between this video describing the combustion stroke and your recommendation I set the valves like a champ! It's so much easier and much more accurate then tinkering with TDC. You know you're good to adjust when the one liftet starts going down. All the way through that cycle nothing changes so you just do the exhaust or the intake vice versa it's much more accurate. My Generac is so quiet and start so easy now. Thank you so much
I got a 22hp v twin briggs off a 2014 john deere d140 and I'm trying to get up the gumption to give it a go on the lash adjustment valves are ticky sounding 214 hrs on it they have never been adjusted it runs good no issues there.. but not sure how to do it on a v twin confidently I'd love to give it a shot though
Per Chevrolet the procedure to set the lifters on ALL Chevy V-8 small blocks is the same. Bring the piston to TDC on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder and set the intake on 1-2-5&7 and the exhaust on 1-3-4&8. Rotate the engine 180 degrees and set the intake on 3-4-6&8 and the exhaust on 2-5-6&7. Chevrolet recommends tightening the rocker arm to where the push tube no longer spins easily, then backing the nut off 3/4 turn. I back mine off 1/4 because it lets the engine rev higher. 3/4 of a turn has a tendency to choke the motor down. After the initial setting I generally run the motor and back the nut off to where the rocker arm just starts clacking, then run it down to where it's quiet, and add 1/4 turn. Works every time.
Champion generator video shows directions wait exhaust valve be open then adj intake. Wait intake be fully open then adj exhaust. Not sure which first but done couple videos. I did like you on my Pulsar then checked see if Champion way have same specs seemed tighter couldnt get .007 0r .009 in. Way tight from factory which weird all do build motors China.
It doesn't matter which stroke it is on, the back side of the camshaft clearance does not change. If there is a compression release, there is a timing mark on the starter bell.
So the Piston is at the top twice. After the intake valve closes. And then again after the exhaust valve closes to repeat the cycle. TDC is the first time the Piston makes it to the top. When the intake valve closes and the exhaust valve is about to open?
4 cycle engine: Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust. On the intake stroke the piston is on it's way down and sucks fuel. On compression the piston is headed up and both valves are closed to build compression. The plug fires and the piston heads down on the power stroke, then comes back up to exhaust the combustion gases. IOW the piston moves up on the Compression and exhaust stroke. When the intake valve closes with the piston coming up, you are on the way to TDC on the compression stroke, and both the Intake and Exhaust valve are closed.
I just spent about 1500 on performance parts and a Outlaw Tillotson Hemi head that’s what the man who built the head called it and y’all have to excuse cause I just get a kick out of saying that but anyhow point being the only way this engine will start is adjusting the valves on TDC of the compression stroke. Like many folks I learned on a 350 Chevy and the procedure was to adjust the closed valve turn 180 and adjust the other that will get a stock engine running but when you put a couple grand into a pressure washer engine if you don’t know the right way your not going to enjoy a mini bike that will take off like a CBR does
If you bring the engine to TDC on the compression stroke for no 1 cylinder you can set the intake on 1-2-5& 7, and the exhaust for 1-3-4&8. Rotate the engine 180 degrees and set the intake on 3-4-6&8, and the exhaust on 2-5-6&7 and it will start and run every time. You can run the engine and fine tune it one rocker at the time by backing off the rocker to where it has just started clacking, then run it down to where the rocker is quiet, and add 1/4 to 3/4 of a round to the nut. Chevrolet says 3/4 of a round, but 1/4 will give you higher RPM's, and 3/4 has a tendency to choke the engine down. MOST manufacturers want the valves set with the piston on TDC of the compression stroke, and a few want it done on TDC, then rotate the engine 1/4 turn to avoid valve overlap.
" you will get false settings because of valve overlap" I have watched five of these in a row now and believe the TDC people are doing it 'factory,' but failing on the explaining. If I understand it, I should check the respective valve when it is CLOSED and the piston is at TDC. I wonder if anyone has a written factory reference I might read online or d/l. I think I might understand it better if I could read it.
The damn rocker just needs to be slack. That's all. Position only matters if you are in the wrong position ie valve is being operated by rocker , rod, cam
Well in this case yes you have to place the engine on the compression stroke. the question is this: do you know why? you are talking about cam timing here. again, in this case the cam sits in the proper position for valve adjustment . However most engines don't.
Some engine manufactures want the valves set with the engine cold. My Generac generator specifies a cold set for the valves. That's where it pays to KNOW the specs for a particular engine.
Lot of great information here but please work on the production side. Sound quality was poor. Often, you could barely hear the narration. And camera control needs work. The subject of your narration was often not in frame, or was barely so. Review your work before you upload and don’t settle for half-assed. Your channel and your viewers deserve better.
A "Rookie " shouldn't be working on an engine in the first place , If you don't know what you are doing , leave it alone and let someone who does know fix it .
another additional double check is is to observe where the flywheel magnet is in relation to the coil/ignition module. If the magnet is not even close to the coil/ignition module, then you are NOT at top dead center. The compression stroke phase in a 4 cycle engine means that top dead center happens in TIME with the ignition. Watch how the magnet rotates closer and close to the coil/ignition module when the piston is pushing into compression...this is how you KNOW with PRECISION that the piston IS IN THE COMPRESSION CYCLE. .
What I have found to be very helpful is to continue to move the piston past top dead center, and then just as it starts to move back down into the cylinder, this is the most optimal spot to do a valve clearance/gap/lash. The reason for this is two fold:
a. most modern 4 stroke engines have a decompression mechanism. This decompression mechanism actually holds the BOTH valves open just slightly at top dead center. If you try to set valve clearance exactly at top dead center, then the valves will not actually be correctly gapped.
b. You really want the valves completely closed during ignition...and this happens just as the magnet rotates to the leading "ARM" coil/ignition module. Ignition happens very quickly right at top dead center, not before, and not after. If the valves are opened too soon, then you will have engine performance issues. By slightly rotating the flywheel so that top dead center has already passed and the piston is just barely starting to move back down, you will notice the magnet has passed BY the first "arm" of the coil/ignition module. This means the ignition spark has already happened. And THAT is the right timing for valve clearance...(and you avoid the decompression mechanism problem stated above).
I learned this through trial and error. I used a tachometer light. When I had initially set my valve and timing. I noticed that the ilde was not as smooth...I painted a timing mark on the flywheel. The timing light showed the mark dancing quite a bit back and forth. But when I set the valves just AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER and made sure the magnet had moved just slightly past the first arm, the timing strobe experiment showed great improvement. The timing mark did not erratically dance and the engine was silky smooth. Having a timing light is a great tool to have by the way. It can also help you find out other problems too, like keyway/woodruff key damaged...or a bad coil. Or spark plug problems. or a head gasket problem. A timing light, similar to how to properly use a leak down test, shows you the state of performance of your ignition health. it can reveal things that no other tool can, and is pretty simple to understand.
God Bless America
You are the greatest ever
Maybe you can answer this question: I have a Honda FR700 rototiller and it began to miss and backfire, got progressively worse until it wouldn't start at all. I have replaced the coil twice and even replaced the points with a universal ignition module. Still won't start and no spark occurs. I hooked up a timing light to the plug wire to see if I was getting spark. No light from the timing light. Can a magnet fail? The magnet is located on the internal rim of the flywheel. It still acts like a magnet when I put something up against it. It is odd that it got progressively worse rather than a complete failure at once. I'm stumped as to what is preventing it from firing. There's not that much to the ignition system.
@@BeanieandCecil I would think something is grounded. like the sparkplug cable or the shut off wire that attaches to the coil. read it with a meter to ground. but I could be completely wrong.
Probably the best video explaining how to determine which is the compression and which is the exhaust stroke.
Short, straight foreward and no bull shiet fluff. Good video! Ty!
This is the one of the best tips I've seen on determining when you're at TDC on the compression stroke. So glad I checked out MM1 before adjusting my valves! Cheers.
Thanks for showing how one can tell which stroke the engine is on and when to adjust the valves. Excellent job. Thanks for the video's.
LOL I remember doing this. Took me most of the day to finally get it right. Oh if we only had YT 40 years ago.
Stay safe, Joe Z
I have been adjusting my valves on the intake stroke for a year now. Its been running.... It sounds great but the power is not the same. Thank You.
Great to see my buddy posting again!
Briggs 31P777 involves what you mention at the end during valve adjustment. They want the piston to go about 1/4" in after being top dead center. Nice walkthrough! Haven't seen a video showing the piston inside the spark plug chamber. Getting ready to do this for the first time, but nervous and doing tons of research lol. Don't want to have to go back in to adjust after a fresh oil change.
There are videos where the head is replaced with lexan and you can watch everything
Awesome Video !
No BS , all knowledge 💯
Thank you!
Exactly what I did and by chance I saw this video pop up. You'e the man. Thank you!
I learned years ago when referring to “top dead center “on any four cycle engine meant that the piston has reached the top of the stroke before the ignition/power stroke only. However, Vanguard engine manufacturers recommends dropping piston 1/4” past tdc when setting valve lash on all their big block v- twin engines.
You are correct. Take valve cover off and all spark plugs out so you can watch the valves and KNOW you are on compression stroke. Briggs does say to go 1/4" past TDC but that can be on all engines. It only makes sense that both valves need to be closed during power stroke and the currect time to check tappet clearance. Check clearance before loosening anything. Great video.
Why don’t you adjust the intake valve while the exhaust valve is wide open and adjust the exhaust valve while the intake valve is wide open?
It’s the safe way to do it and less confusing
TDC just messes people up
@@philliphall5198 Yea, I’ve never understood people doing this at TDC. I grew up in a shop. Been twisting wrenches for 40 years. I’ve always adjusted valves while the other was wide open. Never had a problem.
@LaneAWD_OwO adjust both valves at the same time just make sure you line up the arrow on the fly wheel with the timing mark on the ignition coil
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 He asked why not do it the easy way and you just replied basically 'do it the hard way'. Does that response make sense to you? Did you misunderstand the question?
I like to put two white timing marks on the top of the engine to make it easier to find TDC. The stationary one goes on the engine case and the other one goes on the rotating screen where the cooling air gets sucked in. After I find TDC the first time the marks make it easier to find it again later on. You can even find TDC without having to remove the spark plug and look inside the hole.
The only thing that you have to do is be sure that it’s on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I know. All I'm saying is that its easier to locate TDC if you have a external, visual reference rather than having to find TDC by looking at the piston through the spark plug hole.
@@joevignolor4u949 👍
Good info here and explained in such a simple way I believe anyone could follow.
So you adjust the (exhaust valve,and intake valve) both on the compression stroke only??
Excellent explanation. Thanks for being so clear and concise.
What's the exhaust decompression startup mode on the cam got to put it at top dead center and then turn it a quarter turn.
Thanks man, gonna give this a shot do to my 18 hp has been hard to start from day one of ownership, I’ll let y’all know how it went at a later date,
How’d it go
Okay y'all I gave it a shot never adjusted valves before so I took my time adjusted the valves to 5000 haven't had a problem since great video
Thank you. Very helpful information that I will use when I adjust my valves on my snow blower.
What model and Valve gaps?
What about when the piston is at the bottom of the compression stroke or half-way through the compression stroke? Wouldn't the valves still be closed then?
so what is a simple way for a novice to know you are on compression stroke
Put your finger over the spark plug hole and “feel” for compression.
Thanks! I was wondering the samething.
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 So you mean feel for "air" coming out of the spark plug hole, right? That's the compression, or compressed air coming out?
i’m pretty sure if you turn the engine by hand that when it gets harder turn that’s when you hit the compression stroke
Exactly, this is the question that could be explained a little more clearly. Hope @themowermedic1 sees this!!
I am exactly in this situation! Wondering why the heck my exhaust valve is so tight.
I've wasted far too much time worrying about finding TDC. Just rotate the engine until one of the valves is open, adjust the other one that is closed. Then, rotate the engine until the valve you adjusted is open and work on the other one. Done. No removing the spark plug, no piston position observation, etc. The whole point of piston observation is to find TDC so both valves are closed when you adjust them. If you're off a little, or by 180 degrees, your adjustment will be wrong. Save time and worry, do it the easier way.
I just used your method on my 4 stroke outboard, so simply great advise.
That method is is incorrect. one valve open stays open for a long time during therotation of the crank, the valve you’re trying to adjust, may not be on the base circle of the cam, which will give you an incorrect reading. Always find top center It’s quick and easy.
You have to make absolutely sure the closed valve is on the base circle of the camshaft. If not, you’re not going to get it set correctly.
@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I did it by finding top dead center, thanks for your reply.
My predator 212 hemi does kickback sometimes and i hate it how do u get rod of that
Sounds like timing.
Great video.may save someone from making a bad mistake.
❤ great video brother have you ever did any work on the new V-Twin igx800 by Honda? I have one with around 120 hours and it is lightweight surging but also it is losing power when we put a load on the 10 gallon a minute pressure pump we changed all the throttle body gasket intake gaskets the oil we had to replace the rectifier and someone told me that it might be the coil when it gets hot gets weak? If you have any suggestions or solutions to this we would really appreciate it thank you for the time it took you to put this great video together❤❤
How do you fix it if you do make adjustments on the exhaust stroke?
Simple. Roll the engine over and when the piston comes up to TDC adjust the valves.
I have a motorcycle with a engine similar.. and yes I lashed the valves in the wrong stroke.. it will kinda start but not run very long.. and I have to be giving it almost half throttle at that…
I put a new camshaft Briggs and Stratton and now it makes a clicking sound when I turn it over by hand
I been doing m for years n found for me it's easier on tdc exhaust stroke
Rock crank till ex opens, adjust int
Rock crank till int opens, adjust ex
Cos decompressor on tdc comp stroke means you have to send piston over centre by 6mm n that's just a hassle
But don't let me confuse the newbie's, if you do it often enough,
you'll work out what I mean.
GT'S RUNNING REPAIRS
OZ
I have a 13 hp Honda clone. It’s on a splitter from a family member that let it set for years. I replaced the carb , plug, and coil. It had the cylinder filled with a dirt dauber nest of mud. They went up the exhaust. I cleaned the cylinder and changed the oil. I got it to hit once on starter fluid. I have spark. Any suggestions? I did torque the head when I put it back. I just got a feeler gauge to check the gap. Just running out of ideas.
So you are confident when you replaced the coil you spaced it off the flywheel and all wires are correct? Have you checked the carb float operation?
I took the governor off my kt196 go kart. Worked fine before, just slow. I just put the engine back on the frame and now when I pull the pull string it’s impossible to pull. It snaps back. If I take the spark plug out it pulls fine. Thoughts?
Adjust the values
@@ofner13 When you remove the plugs you've got no compression and you're pulling against no resistance. If it won't pull with the plugs in check the valve set. If it's a Briggs it has a compression release and the compression release won't work if the valves aren't set right.
My bike has Line mark for TDC,i aligned it and adjusted both valves as the manual says,now the engine is ticking even more,do you know what it could be ?
I simply use valve overlap. When the intake opens adjust the exhaust valve and vise versa.
Have a wonderful Thanksgiving sir
OK, I'm a decent mechanic so I think I know how to do this. Never had a problem w/with engines but for some reason I get to TDC on comp stroke, set both valves correctly, check them again, and still I get the engine locking up when I try to start it. It WILL start fine if the engine wasn't right at the comp stroke, but when I start it and the engine is about TDC it will only turn a tiny bit and stop. I have to manually rotate the fly wheel, then it will start since it's now past the comp stage. I know what you're thinking... I don't have the valves adjusted correctly, but they are. this is very frustrating... any ideas? Some people say to turn the engine about a quarter turn past TDC, then set the valves. thoughts??? THANKS!!
Comp release
Broken on cam
This is really valuable info that no one on other videos showing how to adjust valves ever mentioned. I will soon be adjusting valves for the first time and was aware that the piston had to be TDC but I did not know about intake stroke TDC only .
Happy Thanksgiving Jeremy 👍
Great video I got a 22hp briggs vtwin its on a 2014 model john deere d140 rider it's got 214 hrs on it and it runs great but I noticed the valves are ticky would you say they needed and adjustment mower medic 1? I believe jd recommends it at 200hrs I just wish I was confident enough to do it, never done it before. Wrench on the regular but never had to do it as of yet. Any recommendations for a first time valve lasher 🤣
My guy My kawasaki just started smoking white and blue smoke no stop its on a BaD boy mower .put oil in no leaks but keeps going empty..fr730v?
Would you be able to give me your input it will help a lot been running around for 4 days trying to figure this out
Blown head gasket
So having one valve completely open to adjust the other valve is not the proper way? I assumed if one valve is completely open, the other should be completely closed allowing for adjustment.
No that’s wrong. Both valves closed at tdc compression stroke
Both valves are open “valve overlap” on the exhaust stroke
Oh yeah the valve overlap. With the exhaust valve fully open, the intake valve is just starting to open.
You are correct. th-cam.com/video/8PEUt_KAcYk/w-d-xo.html
You know, I always did it that way. With one open the other should be closed. Seems as though that should be right.
Been trying to do this on a coleman motor I just don't get it!
Check your work both ways and the lash drag will be the same. TDC on comp stroke (after air blows past your finger in the spark plug hole and then using a dowel or screwdriver in the hole watching for the highest movement) with both valves closed set the lash.
Then check rotating engine until one valve is completely open and set the other valve then repeat for the other valve and you will get the same feeler gauge drag. IMO your wasting your time with TDC. The manual says to do it with TDC on comp stroke so you can save time and adjust both valves at the same time. Both ways are just as accurate as the other. When one valve is fully open (spring compressed) then the other is fully closed.
On a car the best method is the EOIC method. Whether you have a solid or hydraulic cam. I started setting solid lifter lashes on my Z28 since 1974. Whoever wrote the procedure for setting solid lifter by setting 4 valves at each 1/2 rotation (180*) is not 100% accurate. Sure I did it this way for many yrs until my engine builder who built race engines for decades corrected me with his 90* rotation method. But, as always, you do what you want.
For hydraulic valves, the best way is to set valves when the engine is at operating temp and RUNNING. If you have an old set of steel valves covers, partially cut the top open to get your ratchet in to adjust the valve. Loosen the nut until the rocker arm starts to chatter, the tighten until the chatter stops, wait 10 sec, then turn nut 1/2 turn more. GM Dealers set them 3/4 turn down so you wouldn’t come back complaining about noisy lifters. Racers set them 1/4 turn down.
When assembling a new hydraulic cam engine or replacing parts then when setting the lash cold, do not spin the push rod. Instead check for zero lash by moving the push rod up and down cause it’s more accurate. Then from zero lash which is when the slack is all out, turn the adjusting nut to your desired setting. Once fired up and on an engine with a cam already broke in, set lifters while the engine is running.
On a solid lifter cam, it’s very hard to get the correct drag on a feeler gauge when the rocker arm is pounding down on the gauge. I always set my lash cold and not running because my lash did not change when the engine was hot and when the lash was checked the next day. So no more hot burning oil on my hands.
Thanks for the tip! I’m be sure to pass this along to the manufacture and let them know they are wrong!
Wow dude thanks so much. Between this video describing the combustion stroke and your recommendation I set the valves like a champ! It's so much easier and much more accurate then tinkering with TDC. You know you're good to adjust when the one liftet starts going down. All the way through that cycle nothing changes so you just do the exhaust or the intake vice versa it's much more accurate. My Generac is so quiet and start so easy now. Thank you so much
I got a 22hp v twin briggs off a 2014 john deere d140 and I'm trying to get up the gumption to give it a go on the lash adjustment valves are ticky sounding 214 hrs on it they have never been adjusted it runs good no issues there.. but not sure how to do it on a v twin confidently I'd love to give it a shot though
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 it's merely an idiot proof step
Per Chevrolet the procedure to set the lifters on ALL Chevy V-8 small blocks is the same. Bring the piston to TDC on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder and set the intake on 1-2-5&7 and the exhaust on 1-3-4&8. Rotate the engine 180 degrees and set the intake on 3-4-6&8 and the exhaust on 2-5-6&7. Chevrolet recommends tightening the rocker arm to where the push tube no longer spins easily, then backing the nut off 3/4 turn. I back mine off 1/4 because it lets the engine rev higher. 3/4 of a turn has a tendency to choke the motor down. After the initial setting I generally run the motor and back the nut off to where the rocker arm just starts clacking, then run it down to where it's quiet, and add 1/4 turn. Works every time.
Champion generator video shows directions wait exhaust valve be open then adj intake. Wait intake be fully open then adj exhaust. Not sure which first but done couple videos. I did like you on my Pulsar then checked see if Champion way have same specs seemed tighter couldnt get .007 0r .009 in. Way tight from factory which weird all do build motors China.
It doesn't matter which stroke it is on, the back side of the camshaft clearance does not change. If there is a compression release, there is a timing mark on the starter bell.
So the Piston is at the top twice. After the intake valve closes. And then again after the exhaust valve closes to repeat the cycle. TDC is the first time the Piston makes it to the top. When the intake valve closes and the exhaust valve is about to open?
4 cycle engine: Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust. On the intake stroke the piston is on it's way down and sucks fuel. On compression the piston is headed up and both valves are closed to build compression. The plug fires and the piston heads down on the power stroke, then comes back up to exhaust the combustion gases. IOW the piston moves up on the Compression and exhaust stroke. When the intake valve closes with the piston coming up, you are on the way to TDC on the compression stroke, and both the Intake and Exhaust valve are closed.
I just spent about 1500 on performance parts and a Outlaw Tillotson Hemi head that’s what the man who built the head called it and y’all have to excuse cause I just get a kick out of saying that but anyhow point being the only way this engine will start is adjusting the valves on TDC of the compression stroke. Like many folks I learned on a 350 Chevy and the procedure was to adjust the closed valve turn 180 and adjust the other that will get a stock engine running but when you put a couple grand into a pressure washer engine if you don’t know the right way your not going to enjoy a mini bike that will take off like a CBR does
If you bring the engine to TDC on the compression stroke for no 1 cylinder you can set the intake on 1-2-5& 7, and the exhaust for 1-3-4&8. Rotate the engine 180 degrees and set the intake on 3-4-6&8, and the exhaust on 2-5-6&7 and it will start and run every time. You can run the engine and fine tune it one rocker at the time by backing off the rocker to where it has just started clacking, then run it down to where the rocker is quiet, and add 1/4 to 3/4 of a round to the nut. Chevrolet says 3/4 of a round, but 1/4 will give you higher RPM's, and 3/4 has a tendency to choke the engine down. MOST manufacturers want the valves set with the piston on TDC of the compression stroke, and a few want it done on TDC, then rotate the engine 1/4 turn to avoid valve overlap.
Nice info. Good video
Good advice . Looking forward to the 19th December
Really easy,with one valve wide open,adjust the other
found tighter setting
Very helpful
" you will get false settings because of valve overlap"
I have watched five of these in a row now and believe the TDC people are doing it 'factory,' but failing on the explaining. If I understand it, I should check the respective valve when it is CLOSED and the piston is at TDC.
I wonder if anyone has a written factory reference I might read online or d/l. I think I might understand it better if I could read it.
The damn rocker just needs to be slack. That's all. Position only matters if you are in the wrong position ie valve is being operated by rocker , rod, cam
Waste of time. When one is fully open, adjust the other and vis versa.
You aren't much of a mechanic. Don't work on anything with any moving parts.
Almost to 100k! 🔧🎇🎆🎇
Great video, thank you brother!
Well in this case yes you have to place the engine on the compression stroke. the question is this: do you know why? you are talking about cam timing here. again, in this case the cam sits in the proper position for valve adjustment . However most engines don't.
I don’t see how it’s keeping proper adjustment with all the cracks I’m seeing in the head.
Those are casting lines. Poor quality control at the foundry.
Thanks buddy
Another common mistake is not doing the adjustment with the engine at operating temperature
Some engine manufactures want the valves set with the engine cold. My Generac generator specifies a cold set for the valves. That's where it pays to KNOW the specs for a particular engine.
Depends on the motor. My Generac generator calls for valves set at .003 with a cold engine.
Lololo we call them new boots 🥾
Crossflow head scavenging. Both valves will be cracked open at a certain time.
Well im surprised, what else is new
Great video. Might have been nice to actually adjust them. Please use another mic placement. :-) Thanks!!
A/v is just fine here
Volume is f up
KEEP the mick up sometimes we cant here you thanks ?
Half of the picture is missing mr cameraman
Lot of great information here but please work on the production side. Sound quality was poor. Often, you could barely hear the narration.
And camera control needs work. The subject of your narration was often not in frame, or was barely so. Review your work before you upload and don’t settle for half-assed. Your channel and your viewers deserve better.
Thanks
For watching! I appreciate the input. 😂😂😂
I would think the "rookie mistake" would not be pulling the valve cover first.
A "Rookie " shouldn't be working on an engine in the first place ,
If you don't know what you are doing , leave it alone and let someone who does know fix it .
sound is poor
Or if you're a mechanic you never adjust the valves on a small engine at Top Dead center. Open one and adjust the other! why would you complicate it?
Compression releases make that incorrect.