I had a massive highside on my Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport. A heavy old beast! I actually recovered it, just before the point of no-return. On a positive point, it cured my constipation
I have been riding fast bikes since 1974, in the beginning on Norton. You would have a 360 tyre on front and 410 on rear. The common tyres were Avon, with a round profile and Dunlop with a triangular profile. Being young, I listened to the marketing, wide tyres, triangular profiles for racers. So I went Dunlop, overtired the front end to 410, the rear end I couldn't without fouling the chain. And I rode like that. Several years later, I rebuilt the bike for probably the third time. I was learning so I moved my bike nearer the factory production racers. The ridiculously loud two into one pipe was dumped for standard Pea shooter silencers on 32 Inch pipes. It was faster and quieter. Tyres back to 360, 410 Avon. OMIGAWD it handled lighter, faster more precise, like a scalpel compared with an axe.
Changed from a 160 to a 200 on the rear of my yamie. Immediately had to be more careful into corners but would accelerate out of corners on the rear tyre very confidently. Never changed it back. It looked tough and I liked that. Plus it was a tricky job fitting the massive rear wheel and modified swingarm.
Cheers mate. Had an IAM’s saying he had recommended it to pupils and shared it on their forum so I feel honoured on that one 😊 sometimes people just do and say daft things about it all
Thank you for this new knowledge. I always thought of tire width as only, wider for more stability & floatation over rough ground, and reducing the amount of sinking in and getting stuck in mud, sand, and snow, or, choosing narrower tires for more agility, and to purposely cut into loose material for cornerning. But I never thought about choosing different tire width front & rear, to adjust oversteer/understeer balance at lean. Nor did I know that narrower tires are more likely to lowside, and less likely to high side, when they reach their limits. I currently deliver things by e-bike in NYC. The roads are very bad here, and my work bike is a hardtail. So, for added stability, safety, and comfort, I just put on a wider tire on the rear, and it worked. It goes over bumps, cracks, and rough surfaces so much better, but, it is noticeably harder to turn then I'm use to. I have more emergency stops to practice, but I'm also guessing the larger outer diameter from this new rear tire, also puts more leverage on the rear brakes, means it's also less likely to lockup the rear, which is an issue I have been having with emergency stops. I don't know if it's the diameter or also the width that will help maintain rear grip. I already wanted to put the same tire on the front, for the same comfort & stability benefits. I also love wider tires to protect hub motor wheels from being damaged by potholes, curbs, rocks, and tree bits. But you have shown me, I should chose tire width for handling right for me, and I guess tire profile for rim protection. And if the profile or width right for me, dosen't exist, in the rim size I want, then I also guess I can exchange tire width for profile height, by going to a narrower rim. I'm very excited to test all of this, with my work e-bikes, and homemade electric motorcycles. Including a hub motor in the front for All Wheel Drive. Fine-tuning handling behavior with torque adjustment front & rear, and choosing tire widths front & rear. I also thought about designing separate, horizontal suspension for lean angles, but it seems, at least for now, tire width will take care of that. Again, thank you.
Glad it helped mate. Adding drive on front will change things a lot I would guess. And you are right that bigger higher profile tyres will provide more of a cushion for the hub motors. E-bikes aren’t my area of expertise but the basic principles are the same. Just change things one step at a time. Little changes can make a lot of difference. Good luck my friend
I have used many combinations over the years, as long as they fit the rim width right it can be interesting to experiment. I guess i was going through a lot of tyres at one point and getting them cheap in batches, so I got more chance to experiment and trial the effects than most would
@@ClaudeSacthen the stock OEM 190/50/17. A 180/50/17 is usually 20-30$ cheaper than 190/50/17. The more expensive tires are 190/55/17 and 200/59/17; which a 6.0” wide rear will fit (180-200mm)
Your tire width theory actually makes sense to me. I accidentally ordered a rear tire for the front of my bike once. I used it, because it cost me $300. I actually preferred the way it handled. Big old cruiser though, not any kind of sport bike.
That's actually considered "going dark side"... But you would start with a car tire on the back first... I've heard of people getting 50,000 to 80,000 miles out of a car tire...
Most cruiser tires are never ridden near their limits of cornering adhesion. So they're essentially nothing more than rim protectors, and usually any old tire will 'work'...
paused @ 1:45~ I went from a stock 180 to a 200 on my 2013 dyna Fatbob. I had no question that that's the size I wanted. It had everything to do with looks and I doubted performance would be greater or less. In the end, My choice was left me very satisfied. The bit more meat set off a way nicer look. Felt different cornering but nothing I couldn't get used to. I didn't feel any more manlier nor can i say that it improved, or lessened the bike's overall handling. I say, nothing wrong with upping the rear width a bit. Unpause...
if we all thought the same it would be a boring world mate, but changing a bit within wheel rim parameters isnt an issue in most situations, i just dont choose anything bike related on looks or i wouldnt ride the Vstrom lol 🙂Cheers for watching. Ride Free 🙂
I upsized the rear of my sportster from 130 to 180 that was a bear to make fit. I’ll admit it wasn’t for the ride it just looked inadequate next to all the big Harley’s with rears wider than my cars. It’s a sportster so I wasn’t expecting great handling. It doesn’t really seemed to have influenced the handling much
@@chrissmith7669 i guess im just not really interested in the what it looks like as much as how well it works, i still have a standard relatively narrow rear on my FXDX and have left none Harley riders scratching their heads. one of the statements was "is your brake light not working?" because it does run on rails compared to most Harleys 🙂 see here th-cam.com/video/tlv0JgybX3Y/w-d-xo.html
@@barebonesmc I guess I’m spoiled. I’ve got a modern m8 Softail for days I want something that handles and the old sportster when I’m just playing around town. :-)
When roads were wet on my old beast 63 Norton 500 I would reduce tire pressure to 23 to 25 psi. A big factor as to wet heavily traveled roads is motor oil that oozes out during rain. Dry roads ... pumped up back to 30 to 32 psi. Anyhow I’ve always been a pleasure seeking slowish driver ... not into racing.
My first brand-new Moto Guzzi Monza 500 came with skinny A & M 38 Michelin tyres. In imperial sizes. I never found a better suited make of tyre yet, either for that Monza or my current 750-engined Monza. I could lean it over so far that I kept wearing away the edges of my bike boots. A pillion even collected some long grass down between the gap between her crash-helmet and visor, on a winding country road! Fun times. 😂😂
I run a 260 Metzler 888 on the back of my old Vrod. It handles much better than the original Michelin 240. The bike has a max lean angle of 32 deg and I'm 64 years old. You don't ride these bikes like superbikes so there is no issue with running a fat rear tire!
One of the biggest differences is tire pressure and how good you are at loading it upp and keeping it loaded. Last "sport" bike i used on track was a Suzuki Gsx-s 1000f. Originally on 190/50r17 rear and 120/70r17 front. I switched the rear to a 190/55r17 and it became so much better at cornering. Tip in better, higher rear hight, easier to load up (flatten) and much more lean angle before running out of rear tire.
In 1968 I got a mini-bike for my 10th birthday, the rear tire was 8" wide, and a narrow front tire, which didn't like to lean over and was dangerous, In 69, I got a motorcycle and have ridden until my second back surgery In 1998, for my H1 Kawasaki in 72, I went through a tire every 700 miles, so If I had a V-Max, I would choose a wide tire, just as I did when I was a drag racer, and for cornering I would chose a more narrower tire, I suppose It depends on what type of riding you do, Thank You Sir for your videos that help new riders decide what they need. 👍🇺🇸
YES!!! VICTORY COVERAGE ❤ I'm currently polishing a 2009 kingpin up, Please keep it coming, something sooooo good left to history 😥 at least Indian lives on thanks Polaris
🙂Cheers for watching and for the comment mate. Im sure i mentioned them somewhere else too ? trying to remember which video but it is eluding me, Ride Free 🙂
I received from Fortnine a set of new K591 Dunlop Harley Davidson tires that came stock on my 1996 XL 1200 S. My first set of those lasted 4000km WOT all the time, and drag racing at our local track.
in general the best tyre you want is the one with most grip, for road use.Ignore the fancy tyre threads and knobs on it and go for the tried and tested road performance one.
My 1985 GSXR-750 had a _huge_ (back then, 140 rear tyre!). Just 4 short years later, people freaked out at the _enormous_ 170 rear tyre on my 1989 ZXR750. Discussions were had as to the need for something so wide, with most bikers finding a 170 just extravagant and _totally unnecessary._
@@barebonesmc This sizes of tyres had never been seen before back in the day, certainly not on _any_ street bike. My local mechanic was amazed at the 170 tyre in the ZXR (as were the local police, who stopped me several times to check it was street legal).
Thanks for this excellent article. I've got a 1990 fzr1000 exup similar to yours at 13:00. This bike has a 3.5 inch width front rim and 5.5 inch rear. Tires from factory were 130/60 and 170/60 respectively. I think that the most important thing is the ratio between rim width and tire size. Most newer bikes than my 1990 Yamaha have 120/70 and 180/55 for the same rim widths than mine. I wanted a 120 width instead of the 130 size that nobody used after year 1990, but I didn't want to go to the 70% profile because my bike was already too lazy around small radius corners. So I ordered 120/60 which was a common size for the first honda cbr600. Handling was improved after having replaced the old 130/60 with the new 120/60. First step done! Regarding rear tires, I decided to go to 160/60 instead of 170/60, to maintain harmony after having gone narrower on front. Handling got better, grip was excellent for wet roads but size was clearly too narrow for the high torque and power of my exup 1002cc. I was leaving black marks after every rotary on first gear. Bike behaviour was excellent but bumps were too noticeable and worse of all was that applying huge torque and up to 145hp degraded rear tire very quickly consequently. Next I tried the modern size 180/55. No black marks anymore but handling was clearly worse after moving from 160 to 180mm width. Grip was excellent on good roads but it was no good in wet nor in bumpy roads either. I observe quick degradation at the center of the rubber because my rim was not quite wide enough for a 180mm width. Best modern bikes have a 6.0 inch rim to carry 180/55 or 190/50 tires, but my rim was only 5.5 inches wide. Finally I got a 170/60 and now I'm happy. It rides well with this one and the 120/60 front one. I agree that the minimum weight of any tyre is important because higher weight increases both the polar moment and non suspended weight resulting in much higher difficulty of turning and poorer suspension behavior. In my youth, I raced my motocross Bultaco 370cc on roads, hill climbing against the clock, using 2.75 and 4.00 trial tires instead of the 3.00 and 4.50 standard motocross tires. Handling and grip were both excellent, resulting in me winning very often during 5 years of racing. It's clear to me that too wide a tire respect to the rim width is horrible because causes distortion of the shape of the tire, resulting in very bad degradation on the center and very poor grip. Just the opposite of one might expect.
cheers for adding your piece mate, i knew it would be interesting. and it does seem like completely independently, we have reached very similar conclusions :-) have a great week my friend
@@barebonesmc Yes. It was great to find out that we completely agree. I wonder why some riders were answering otherwise. One of them was very rude and I loved your well chosen words to him.
@@josemariatrueba4568 i always try to be polite 🙂 some people just dont appreciate it is also our differences that make the world an exciting place 🙂 in general, we do have the most respectful subscribers. people who can disagree gracefully lol. but as you say, it is always good to find like minded souls 🙂 ride free brother 🙂 we finally got to Germany today 🙂 I will put some raw footage up as we travel
Good video. A lot of nonsense talked about tyres by many. I've always preferred black and round tyres in the recommended sizes. Preferably long lasting thesedays.
glad you enjoyed it mate 🙂 i do my best lol, it is a complex subject, Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching.Hope you will climb aboard. Ride Free 🙂
Great explanation. My first modern bike had a 190 rear and I never felt comfortable with it. The 120 front was similar enough to my previous bike but the back seemed very vague. I'm used to the modern bikes now but that first bike felt very alien to me
I've been riding BMW R75/5 for some 20 yrs. (Still have 'em.) Riding, never racing. I'm a fan of light weight ( and low unsprung masses). Plus I rather go with less leaning angle for the same speed in corners (especially minding the cylinders ;-) The original 75/5 had a dry weight of 190kg. After getting rid of the electric starter and it's one thick wire, it was 6kg less. Plus I was able to step down to a smaller 14Ah japanese battery. For a café racer, I'd rather go down one step on both front and rear wheel. Modern tires should be able to handle 50hp. In perspective: this should be the dry weight of a Yamaha SR500ccm with 27hp. Much more weight could be reduced. (The ignition coils weight 1,2kg. A double ignition coil from an older Suzuki is 360g. A standard seat is around 4,5kg. Located pretty much higher than the overall center of gravity.) I'm 63. I'm happy with that.
On my classic 750 when customizing it I went with wider tires, but not 10 inch, and I used the same width on the front and back. It handles extremely well.
I don’t think so. My Moto Guzzi V50 Monza comes with skinny little tyres (90/90 - 18 front, 100/90 -18 rear) handles excellently. However, when I first bought it, some Dilbert had fitted LeMans 1/2 size tyres front and back. The tyre profile was more curved, the contact patch subsequently reduced, and at 75mph, it went into a death-weave. With the proper size tyres fitted, it was rock-steady to its’ max speed. And handled great again with no death weave. I’ve since put a 750 motor in it. And it now exceeds its’ original design speed - but remains 100% stable. That’s just my thoughts on the matter. Also with a massive rear tyre, the circumference reduces at peak lean whilst engine revs increase. That could end up with the engine hitting the Rev-Limiter in extreme cases. My M8 had a Harley-Davidson with a vast rear tyre and I’ve yet to see him lean it much. He admits he doesn’t enjoy the sensation on it through corners!
You wouldn't really notice a 10 inch tyre's effects on handling on a bike with shite handling. I was having a nitron suspension unit fitted and tuned to my bike . The guy told me to have a look at the Hardley Ableson outside the premises that was there to have it's suspension fixed, specifically to look at the rear springs. The left unit had two springs fitted on the damper each a different rate and the right unit had a single spring. The guy that owned the business went on to say that was the standard arrangement from the manufacturer. Apparently to , in some way , compensate for the rubber chassis.
Looking at motogp bike tyres, there's a uniformity among them related to speed and handling. For that sport, all the riders seem comfortable with tyre choice. Whatever bike you ride, find the tyres that suit you, you'll enjoy your bike more.
true words except for the MotoGP bit, MotoGP tyres are all tied up with contracts and are very rarely the best tyre for the job, and to be fair, the riders are a damn site better than me lol and that is a whole big rabbit hole :-)
@@IamKlaus007 almost certainly more different makes and some different profiles and sizes. I still remember the years when Dunlop and Michelin both had tyre stock they tracelled around the circus with. and different tyres do just suit different bikes and riders
@@IamKlaus007 as with the engines and bikes, different tyres will have advantages on different circuits and surfaces, that was part of the unknowns in the days of multiple manufacturers. it got complicated when riders DIDNT get their choice because of contracts with the teams and tyre manufacturers. I just always think more choices are good, in most areas 🙂
glad you enjoyed it mate 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching.Hope you will climb aboard. Ride Free 🙂
On a track day yesterday, I talked to a guy with a 200+ horsepower bike. He told me that in the bends it automatically reduced power to max 90 hp. Cornering power is only a fraction of max power. A light bike don't need fat tyres to go fast in the bends. My little bike with 110 front and 140 rear does corner at speeds surprising many sports bike riders. Closing in cornering, left behind on straights. Old light 2-stroke race bikes corners faster than most sports bikes. I think that front tyre width is just as important to discuss as rear tyres. Also a discussion about wet or dry conditions would be interesting.
Interesting... Do you mean the guys 200bhp bike had lean sensitive TC? My bike has that but I've always thought of it as just using a more aggressive TC sensitivity as lean angle increases rather than available power being reduced as lean angle increased. Maybe other Manu's do it a bit differently compared to my Gen 3 MT09? Is it perhaps a proper race specced S1000RR with aftermarket mods where it can cut 2 cylinders to reduce torque while leaned over?
Cheers Mike, I wasnt just talking about the rear tyres to be clear, what i think is missed is the correlation (or not) of the 2 tyre widths.. The change in the angle of the frame is directly proportional to half the difference in width of the tyres at a preset lean angle. As with Paul, im interested to know the bike/electronics the guy was running. I know there are bikes that ramp down the power if the wheel lets go and the TC kicks in, or as with the anti wheelie device and holeshot systems where they ramp down the power if a preset series of conditions come into play, but im not sure ive ever seen a lean angle related power map. (that is not saying it doesnt exist, electronics on bikes is foreign territory for me :-) cheers for watching. I may do some others in time, but it isnt an area i pretend to be an expert in. There is so much about tyres that is bike and rider specific it is hard to make generalisations
@@barebonesmc Sadly didn't notice what bike he had. Not even sure of colour, maybe white. Just a very short talk before going home. I was only trying to point out that in bends most of friction is used for side forces, not for acceleration. So much power is only needed going straight.
@@Mike40M now that would be an equation and a half lol, lean angle vs tyre stiction vs surface abrasion and more, and then you have the slide and squirt factor, I wouldnt know where to start with that calculation, and im damn sure Joey Dunlop would have been able to use more power at higher lean angles than I ever could 🙂
true, overall radius/diameter is another key to what i was saying, but it was already getting complicated 🙂 profiles and as someone else said pressure too, a complicated subject
Thank you for this. Am no where near the speed experienced of most. I have an old heavy touring bike (Venture Royale 1200) that needs new tires. I am finding the sizes available for it are limited, in the type of treads that most interest me. So was considering wider tires to get the tire I like as well as the heavy load carrying capacity. This video explains very well what to expect. Thank you!
@@billybobbarker3175 moving size slightly as long as it is within range for the rim size isnt an issue, what sizes does it spec? and what is rim size? as to rear on front, that is one i have been quite baffled by for a long while, but unless i can understand it better i wouldnt do it personally. i would guess the carcass is made slightly differently to handle the different stresses caused by the changes in angle to road the front has to deal with, whereas the back i would guess is designed more for weight bearing and traction, but that isnt gospel at all, just me TRYING to understand the differences. the real problem is when people jump to a tyre thats just too big for the rim, in one of the other comments there is another explanation about the distortions caused by putting a tyre too big for the rim on, with a bike like that, load rating will be an important factor too its a big heavy beast, let me know rim sizes and type of tyre you want and i will have a look if you like see what i come up with
Oe rear 140/90-16 , oe front 120/90-18 Am having difficulty finding a “set” in those sizes. To get a set Am finding I either have to mix different brand/model of tire for front-rear, or choose a different size ratio, typically wider. For some options, to get a “set” means also chosing a “rear” tire to put on the front. Also my northern Canadian roadways are not all nice clean smooth blacktop. Much varied road surfaces, asphalt which often has sand or pebbles or dirt on it, and tar cracks -lotsa cracks. In other words, other than knowing I do not want the Dunlop 404, I have no idea, LoL
@@billybobbarker3175I’d say try Pirelli for the 16” rear then find similar tread pattern front to match. Sets is an industry con as long as profile is similar and you don’t mix bias ply and radial. Just make sure load rating is enough for such a heavy bike
Another thing, smaller vs bigger patch, well, if axle weight is 100 pounds and 2 inch patch has 50psi on it. And the smaller 1 inch pach would have 100 psi. But then bigger patch/tyre would desipate heat better. Theres a friction/weight coefficience chart somewhere, and temperature/adhesion. If irc those 2 are the biggest decisive factors but im no expert. Just like the way we have suvs hard to draw a line where necessity ends
I live in Malaysia where mopeds are the way most people go around,the trend of skinny tires actually concerns me bc these kids are crashing their rides bc the lack of rubber when they lean.. Its even worse during wet conditions as the lack of grooves on the small tires they're using...
Welcome my friend, there is always a balance, and knowing your limits whatever you ride is the key. I am sure riding in Malaysia can be a very different challenge to riding here in the UK. I hope you will join us, thanks for the comment. It is a surprise the trend there is for skinny tyres
I also live in Malaysia and the vast majority of bike fatalities are these scooters. Riding beyond their ability or the scooters capability is the problem, not tire width.
I've got a B-king (naked hayabusa) with a 240 rear tyre. It's fine around town but the faster I go, the harder it is to turn. In fact over 120kph on the autoroute, it's dangerous because it's really difficult to do a lane change or quick change of direction. I also have a Zontes 310v that came with a 180 rear tyre, I changed it for a 160 and it handles way better.
But you understand the difference my friend. Your not stupid. A skinny rear on bking would look silly. So it's suits wider, you know it's not designed to have handle bar ends 3 inches of ground.
racing and riding, light or heavy bike, plenty hp or not, size, weight and experience of rider, etc., all factors to consider. while on a 250cc, tried Metzler front tire which gave the feeling of traction going away, told the rider it's limits; tried a Dunlop which allowed you way more braking but once you reach the tire limit, you were a passenger. my humble opinion: skinnier tires for tight roads.
id agree with that 🙂 except the S20 just worked really well on the Daytona compared to how it worked on the EXUP's or the 750S Laverda, they were never my favourite tyre, they just suited the Daytona somehow
certainly the place to start, but we all ride differently, different riders will get better results with different tyres, the key is only SMALL changes
But what if you modify a sportbike's power? What if you give it active downforce like a hypercar? What if you give it All Wheel Drive with a hub motor in the front, or a system similar to Christini bikes?
The only thing I know from white tires and narrow tires is that it doesn't matter how wide or now.Your tire is as far as the traction footprint goes because that's a function of how much your bike weighs as to much lift.You're getting from the tire.Narrow tiresuse higher pressure.White tires she is lower pressure. I can't even say for sure.Whether one is good for dirt and sandin or not. If it gives you a comfortable ride.The bike is stable.You don't get death wobble at forty to seventy miles an hour. do what you want
Cross-section or Width of Rear Tyres of my Bikes : 2022 Gen 3 Hayabusa (190mm), 2023 XDiavel 1260 V2 (240mm), 2021 Trident 660 (180mm), Scrambler 400X (140mm) I so wish that my Busa had a 200-210mm rear tyre, just 10-20mm narrower than what i'd prefer, purely from Looks / Aesthetics point of view, ... it looks slimmer compared to the size or bulk of the whole bike, i know the cornering ability should get affected, with an already longer wheelbase, it'd be difficult to handle in twisties, but still...! 200mm is the Sweet Spot ... that's why MoToGP bikes have that tyre measurement
@@barebonesmc if i were to KeeP just one Bike for a Lifetime, my pick would be CCM Spitfire 600 single - producing 55 HP only OR Fantic Caballero 500 Scrambler (450cc single)
There is a very famous photo of Ray McCollough at the Ulster I believe, on a TD/TR yam, or an early TZ. He is SO far over! And that on probably Dunlop triangular tyres about 3cm wide! Hahaha. A hero. Great subject and vid has always BareBones. Many thanks.
hero's one and all, the Ulster GP is one of the best races there is. Over here I still remember watching Jarno Saarinen do things that seemed impossible at the time
Right, so between my old grey cells and an old roadrace buddy of mine😅. The tyres to use in 'the day' were Dunlop KR76 front and KR96 rear. Totally triangular!😅. Grant and Ditchburn used them on the works 750 Kawasakis at times, Croxford and Peter Williams on the Nortons. Oh, happy days.....showing my age too. 😅😅😅
glad you enjoyed it mate 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching. Ride Free 🙂
excellent analysis. indeed a very complicated subject. got me a few pointers i did not thought about, thx wider then "normal" tires are ... not my thing. and wider then factory tires on the same rim ... not a bright idea. modern rubber it so good that i think the normal rider should stick with the factory dimensions
glad you enjoyed it and it was useful mate, as you say, a complex subject, and one where small changes in size can make a profound difference in geometry when leant over in a corner 🙂
interesting, i ride a Harley among the others, but it is an FXDX with much narrower tyres than most cruisers, but i have a Laverda with old school skinny tyres on too, actually, i would say that dependent on tyre pressure, the narrow tyres jolt more, but you dont hit so many lumps and bumps lol, a bigger tyre can float over bumps a narrow one will feel more, but it is a complex one
Wide tires like to stay upright but with counter steering it will will be easier to corner when the tire doesn't really want to. I have ridden both cruisers, a victory hammer and the vegas jackpot and both have wide rear tires but when you get used to its handling, and not having a vast technical knowledge about tire widths, they do the job for me.
Honestly, with me its about using what the bike has as best i can, With the Daytona it was just better at late braking and early on the power, whereas the grey EXUP does better if you accelerate through the corners more gradually.increasing the power. The Naked EXUP is more YZF750 than FZR now and front is lower profile and it turns in faster, none compare to the 750S Laverda I had to be fair though, that thing just handled like nothing I have ever ridden before. The older one Im riding now is still a learning curve. but it does track cleanly through the corners
the Diablo is good on a decent surface, we just dont have many roads they would suit around me now lol, you need an ADV bike with big block tyres to get to the end of the road now 🙂
I believe the biggest size one can go (without noticeable handling changes from OEM S/S) is 240mm. Now with production bikes you can get OEM sized rubber in 17” (240/50/17 Pirelli) compared to “Touring tread tires” in 240/40/18. The Ducati Diavel is to blame. The added weight doesn’t help tho. 280/300/360 rear’s are for “trailer queens” and “bar hoppers”… On the other hand, going from a 190 to 180 rear (GSXR K1) will SHARPEN the handling even MORE than SWB with 190 rear (OEM size).
outside of the FASHION factor, rim size against tyre size is key, moving one size up or down as long as its within range of rim size is where it gets personal, but sounds like youve come to similar conclusions to me really 🙂
Thick tires look cool, which is why I think they're so popular. The problem is a lot of the big bikes that were built to use these tires tend to be really expensive.
@barebonesmc if you're pushing your bike too hard you're probably speeding. You'll have fans chasing you, you'll notice them with those blue flashing lights and the smell of rotten bacon 😂
very true, a small bike with skinny tyres will handle and corner better than a big heavy bike for sure. but the bike is designed and set up for a particular tyre/wheel size. I remember riding a mates CB750 which had as was the fad at the time of a 16" 'Fat' rear, it was horrible. like wise I wouldn't put an 120x18" on the back of my 916! However 'modern' sports bikes with 120x17 - 180x17 tyres have grip and handling far above almost any other combination IMHO.
true words, but re "have grip and handling far above almost any other combination" i would say that is perfectly true, however, i would add that even tyres on most 100x18 -120x18 combinations have more grip than most riders will ever use now too. 🙂
glad you enjoyed it mate 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching. Ride Free 🙂
Tyre pressure is more important than size.. most people run to high of psi.. the diagram of tyre size was of a tyre running 100psi as it had zero degree of tyre flex. Weight of bike, weight of person, on my road racing bikes I ran what people would call very low psi .. 24 rear 26 psi front. Even down to 22 and 24.. the tyre needs to flex, if your running high or manufacturer psi its maybe not a good thing. Suspension also plays a massive part. On my road bike, it has a much larger tyre on the rear for looks, but it barely gets leaned over so has pretty much no affect.
indeed there are many factors involved. and i guess i tend to run lower than rated pressure unless im carrying a heavy load, but that is just where it gets personal for me, finding the right combination for you and your bikes is the key, cheers for watching
You start low with road racing because you’re expecting to get the tires hot so the pressure will increase on its own. When riding on the street you don’t typically get the tires that hot so you need to start with a little higher pressures. There’s normally a plate on the bike that lists recommended tire pressures, but it’s often for when loaded.
Not quite myfriend, when you use nitrogen to fill tyres it does not expand. Its constant. I understand not all have access to such air.. But even without that, people use to much psi in tyres. You can tell even with the youtube wantabe road racers who crash alot in their videos its down to wrong pressure, too much psi combined with poor suspension set up does not allow tyre to bend or flex, its rock hard. Take a drag bike or car, when the trye squats under load its for grip, if they were too high psi, it has no grip. People think tyres need to be hard as nails, my custom bobber runs 20 and 22 psi where harly riders run near 40 psi so when you brake hard, the front wheel skids as it cant grip the road.@NBSV1
@@evelghostrider Nitrogen still expands and contratcs with temperature. Regular air is about 70% nitrogen anyway. One of the main problems is moisture in the air from a regular compressor. That will cause it to expand a lot more as it heats up. With nitrogen it’s been processed and had the moisture removed which is the biggest difference. I’ve dealt with a lot of vehicles running nitrogen and regular air. As long as the regular air is really dry the difference is maybe 1-2 psi when hot. Running the tires at a lower pressure doesn’t always mean more grip. There’s an optimal range. Drag tires are designed to work at lower pressure so more tire is in contact with the ground. Regular car or bike tires don’t respond the same at low pressure and you’ll actually get less grip if the pressure is too low.
As you have dealt with air vrs nitrogen you should understand the pros and cons. I am well into my very late years, i started racing motorcycles aged 5, at 15 years old id left school and had a successful business. Building and preping race bikes for motocross, road and tracks, by 18 i was into doing the same for road cars then race cars. I am not going into every tiny detail that helps people achieve grip my friend as its endless. My point still stands, the normal rider would achieve much better feel from lower tyre pressure than the standard pressure all manufacturers suggest. But most riders still add more air... of course if a tyre has to low psi it affects grip. But do you know how low ? You cant as it depends on set up. But low tyre pressure gives more grip than high tyre pressure. To be quick you find the sweet spot between too soft and to firm for your weight and set up. Less air is better than more air... as hard tyres cant fold as much as softer ones. Just as a hard compound does not stick aswell as a super aoft compound. @NBSV1
Harley riders (I am one, for the record, 2021 Sport Glide), often make me laugh. Those super wide tyres (such as on the POS Breakout) cause terrible and dangerous understeer. I rode a Breakout and couldn’t believe how badly/dangerously it pushed the front in corners.😳
sort of, if you mean the sort of Harley lowering that means there is no lean angle, but then if you are talking the sort of lowering that the old Guzzi Fallcone S and Aermacchi's used to lower the frontal area and centre of gravity, thats a different story 🙂 cheers for watching and adding your bit mate
Great vid, i think tyres are personal preference, i think we all find our faves but i would not change sizes, if honda fit a 180 section for example, everything has been designed around it. You can have any of the best big sticky boots money can buy but a yam 350LC with avon roadrunners beats them all😂
as long as you stick with tyres that fit the rim size you can change sizes a little without any issues. and sometimes it does work better, but it is all very personal for sure, ill take the LC but you can keep the roadrunners lol
Thanks, i agree with most of your video, i ask people this question, which would you rather have step on your foot a 99lb woman or 175lb guy, most people say the 99lb woman, then i tell them how wrong they are, 99lbs on your foot in a high heel is 99lbs in about onehalf inch square ,comes down to pounds per square inch , maybe that will help you explain to people, :)
i do sort of agree. having said that, suspension can play just as big a role in getting the power down as tyres do. narrow tyres with a well set up suspension may well get the power down better than wide tyres with poorly set up suspension :-) in a different vein, you could minimise the comment and say wide tyres are for power in a straight line lol, all are equally true :-) have a great weekend mate, cheers for adding your bit
glad you enjoyed it mate it is a complex issue but hope this cleared some of it up 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching.Hope you will climb aboard. Ride Free 🙂
lol, sort of, but that is relative. and things are rarely that simple unfortunately. If you are talking to someone on a bike with VERY narrow tyres, a SLIGHTLY wider tyre may be the solution 🙂Cheers for watching and for the comment mate. Ride Free 🙂
@@barebonesmc not talking about skinny tyres but the big fat things some fools think look good. A 180 rear will handle better than a 200 on my Super Sport when racing. 🇦🇺🏍
@@MICHAEL-ys3pu I have had similar, and in general, i would say the manufacturers tend to go bigger than they should these days, the reality, i'm not Casey Stoner, John McGuiness or Joey Dunlop 🙂 and I ride on nasty roads full of potholes too lol
maybe in part because they can be, because the rubber is better. but i will be honest and say i hadnt really thought much about it, the weight of modern bikes might be part of the reason too, cheers for adding
I have to be honest, I have always just ridden my bike to suit itself ,myself , the road and the weather. Regardless of the performance of the bike engine, I would guess that I have rarely actually used much more than 40 BHP. Tyres....again , my view is perhaps different to most.I am simply not interested in superior corner speed and sure footed side grip, I am interested in how the tyre and the bike stops in an emergency... does the bike just give up and dump me on the road or does the bike stand itself up or will the bike simply allow me to lose speed and attain a controlable drift. The tyre is just part of the package of weight distribution, rider, suspension, temperature, air pressure. Tremendously complicated as pointed out in this article. Also pointed out in this article is how the rider has to ride different machines with different tyres in different ways. I am not the most skilled rider and so I ride very much taking the sort of lines whereby if I have to brake suddenly , I have the room to stand the bike up. This doesnt always work since reflex panic reaction often takes over and I end up dumping the whole thing onto the road... how many times have we heard the "hero" tale " I had to lay the bike down"....total rubbish!Panic takes over and we mostly all do it! On one occasion as I was sliding down the road, I found that my sledging experience came in very handy.!The worst tyres I have ever encountered have , perhaps coincidentally, always been standard fitment.
You might be surprised. I would say it is definitely the place to start, small profile and width changes CAN improve things at times on some bikes though, the key is small, and not without careful consideration. On the Vstrom I use a more agressive 80 section front than the standard 90, purely and simply because it cuts through the dirt better. remember, the bikes are designed around people who are smaller nd lighter than me in general, and are designed and fittted with tyres that might not suit my particular riding style. there are always nuances. but you are right in general, at least to a certain extent. The lower profile front on the naked EXUP made it far better too. it turns in faster and holds its line better. there are always exceptions, cheers for the comment, have a great weekend
Is the contact patch really that much larger, or just a different shape? The tire wants to be round and weight presses it flat, creating the contact patch. So 40psi with 120lbs of weight is 3 inches of contact regardless your tire size... so the geometry of the tire and ratio of diameter or distance from axel is creating the ride profile. My guess understanding is wider over longer contact patch better transmits torque to the ground, thus big cruisers and sport bikes have wide tires at the cost of heavier lean in and less overall lean angle and why Moto GP throws out a knee while Moto3 and street keeps the knees in to maintain control and not add additional and unnecessary instability by peacocking the knee out.
lol, big questions 🙂It will be larger in general yes, but there are always exceptions, pressure applied to a smaller area will create more distortion than if the same pressure is applied to a larger area so yes the smaller tyre will distort more, but that isnt likely to make as much difference as the width, profile and the engineered in distortion pattern. Pressure changes within a bigger tyre from heat are also different, so the pressure change dure to heat is more with a narrower tyre as the tyre and air heats up faster. I hadnt thought about wider v longer in relation to torque in all honesty. but yes the wider tyre is harder to lean and requires more lean angle for the same turning radius. as to knee/elbows, out/down much of that is very personal, Jaarno Saarinen hung off narrow tyres, John McGuinness rides much more perpendicular to the bike, just as Mick Grant, Mike Hailwood and many others did. this is where it gets endless lol, every time you think you considered everything, you remember something you forgot 🙂 cheers for adding the comment mate 🙂
I meed yo get me a set of 140/17-17 for yhe back of a bike i want/cant name, ots a lot like rhe cbx250, looking t pilot streets, b46 and changing the back to 150/60 to te
lol, I bought a Harley, that was a move far enough to the Darkside for me :-) I cant imagine they would work well on British roads, we dont have so many straight bits :-)
Yeah, that explains why Moto GP bikes run a 120 section rear tyre... There's much, much more to this; like the fact that all of the talk about the relevant sizes of front and rear tyres here assumes that the front and rear wheels take the same line, which they don't exactly. There's also the ever changing weight distribution in three planes, slip angle, and a whole bunch of other stuff to take into account.
Indeed, as i said, there are many forces at play, some that work with and some that work against each other, it is a very complex subject. and to be clear, i wasnt assuming anything, i was trying to illustate a certain point, and that is just 1 aspect of the whole issue.
I read a cool story of how Yamaha had developed the fzr around the Dunlop k591 and it made sense. It was the profile of the tires that was important. If the engineers didn't design the bike around it seems like it's a guessing game
interesting. i was never a fan of Dunlop tyres to be honest, I found the EXUP's ran much better on Conti's. whereas my Daytona hated the Conti's and wants S20 Bridgestones or Michelin 2CT's. the EXUP really didnt like the S20, but was ok on the 2CT's, so Michelin won as the best general use i would say. but it shows how much difference tyre choice can make, the 2CT has a sharper turn in, the S20 has more feel when it starts to slide, and with the Conti's on the EXUP, it just never seemed to let go. 🙂Cheers for adding your bit mate. Ride Free 🙂
@barebonesmc had to do with the arc the front and rear tire chosen by the engineers and the way the frame worked with them. Was a pretty cool story if you can find the original. Cool post , take care.
I have found it is more the weight of the bike than anything. I have around 50 years of riding experience, on a bike that is 200 lbs. the tires are about the same, if you are over 1000 lbs. you need 2.5 to 1 rear tire, this will help the bike turn, if you go bigger like 4 to 1 you have a harder time turning at slow speed. and yes, the wife and I and the bike is around 1400 lbs. loaded.
I reckon we were close to half a ton rolling on the last 6K mile European tour on the Vstrom and it has barely a 1.5 to 1 ratio on the tyres with a (relatively) skinny tyre set up with semi off road tyres and it did everything i asked and kept us both smiling. As with most things, no one size fits all, cheers for adding your bit mate
@@craigg4925 it was, some amazing roads and out of the way places, i did start to edit the footage and got about 5 episodes in, but other videos took over. i have recently been doing bits of editing again, but im off again soon, so bike maintenance takes priority 🙂
@@craigg4925 welcome aboard mate, we do have a great bunch of subscribers, and there are some very interesting conversations in the comments too, surprisingly, we get very little in the way of stupid or insulting comments, and i dont delete any so what you see is what you get 🙂
Help : i really like the 80/20 ..road tire - cause i live on 1mile dirt road ... then i stay on pavement! yet im crazy about -want last looong time before needsreplaced. any ideas ?
If you care about handling wide tires stink. Had a 240 on one of my Harley’s - that combined with a slightly longer rake than some bikes it was horrible in parking lots and slow speed turns - which is a large percentage of most peoples riding.
Bobbed heirloom basketcase '79 shovel; staying under 88 In. displacement, trimming a few lbs. off the flywheel, 4×4(ish) w/offset wrist pins, mild stroke...19" mags, 140 in front 180 in back. Mid controls as well
id say thats always the best place to start, at least size wise, branding is irrelevent on that point tthough, id have never been able to take the Vstrom so far off road if i had always stuck with the original road tyres 🙂
Choppers with 300 series tires on the rear handle like shit at low speeds but choppers are choppers and fat tires are cool! A 300 on the back of a sport bike looks cool but eats up allot of power and is harder on chains but sometimes we do things for fun not because they are particle. When doing 23 26 or 30 inch front wheels the tires don't seem to get the best life but those wheels are all heavy and the extra weight dose make for a better ride especially on the highway. I have never been fond of the 23 and up wheels myself but everyone has different taste I do like the new trend of running a 180 series front wheel on the HD street glides because not only do they look cool but the tires last forever and you are probably tripling the weight of the OEM combo and they ride better than stock at any speed. When racing we go the other way with with the lightest wheel and tire combo possible like carbon fiber wheels or magnesium so we don't waste HP.
honestly, a 23 inch wheel is a bit silly to me, and i guess if looking cool was my priority then i wouldnt still be riding a Vstrom most 🙂 to me, the priority is that it does everything i want it to without breaking, but if we all thought the same it would be a boring world 🙂
Only ridden once with triangular tyres on a Aermacchi 350 racer. What I noted was that the very narrow centre section made it difficult to go a straight line. When at the leaning angle with most contact patch it was very stable resulting in that it was hard to change turning radius. Making overtaking more difficult.
@@Mike40M I too rode on triangulars mainly because those that knew better used them. I must admit the tyres were a major but for the clubman getting every last HP out of the engine seemed to be de rigueur de day with scant regard to how all this is transmitted to the road!
Good vid...I run a 260 on rear, cruiser, felt like a whale at first after 1k never think about it, get used to like all bikes, 85k now, but you can have some fun with your mates riding behind you in the rain lol as in rooster tail...ride safe...
The truth is, it depends. It depends on the goals of the rider and the bike. Examples, dark side on a Goldwing (using a car tire) is a great solution for cost effectiveness and durability. If optimal performance on track is your goal, then stick to the manufacturer suggestions. There is not one single answer to this question.
. Roadrace tires w/ low aspect ratios are great. Huge truck size rear tires on a fat boy make the bike want to fight you in a turn, and go straight off the road!
of course it depends what and how you are riding :-) Road race tyres are no good on gnarly single tracks, they need a good surface. but i get what you are saying :-)
@@barebonesmc know what you mean, got caught on a flooded road yesterday, on my RC390 W/ CONTI SPORT ATTACKS. Took me an hour to get the mud out of my fairings! 😆 reminded me of the Paul Simon song, " slip sliding away!"
depends on use, no use on useless potholed roads really, more of a pain, and as i said, different tyres suit different bikes and riders. there is no hard and fast rule in reality
Polar moment of inertia grows quickly with heavier wheels. Suspension works badly when adding non suspended weight. One extra kilogram is bad at the wheels but is almost nothing on top of the seat.
It isn't mentioned here, but a basic criterial of tire selection is LOOKING COOL....... Sorry about the science....But that's how it is..... Most of us believe a sliderule is the authority of a tire exiting a corner. So much for our engineering acumen...... Here's to skinny women and fat tires!
I find wide tires give a false feeling of center, making the central weight of the bike offset and I wasn't feeling comfortable once I tried wider tires, hard to explain but I don't think they are better for handling corners etc.
I think you hit the nail on the head there, but it does seem to work for some bikes in a certain way. a good designer can find solutions, but i prefer to stick to keeping the basic principles as right as possible so you dont need to design the flaws out afterwards
i wasnt thinking of looks at all here to be honest. and there are many things that go into the decision, especially as i said, what tyres suit the bike, looks and performance are very different ideas though, cheers for the comment mate, a complex subject as i said
No. These a point where the width just makes it impossible to turn... Which I guess some Americans is fine as they seem to not care about turning (from watching some of their car and bike shows)
Much as i would agree in some ways, we shouldnt generalise or people might think we still walk around with a knotted handkerchief on our heads in the summer lol. glad you enjoyed the video mate 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching.Hope you will climb aboard. Ride Free 🙂
going bigger with out moding anything is pointless unless its for looks but it can be done i have a Yamaha 1998 Fazer 600 stock is 110~160 i now run 120 ~190/55 and it is way better BUT i have also changed all the suspension to Aprilla 2000 RSV mille with rsvr magnesium wheels a Yamaha R1 2000 rear subframe and have lost 40kg
i put a ten milmeter wider on my gsxr1100 on the rear from a 160 to 170it slowed down the handling in the cornersi did not like iti could corner harder with narrow tire
I'm to hear about all this knowledge he received from engineers, journalists, and tire manufacturers. Okay, he starts sharing this after 6 minutes into the video
@barebonesmc Absolutely agree. Time is precious...(^.^) There are too many content creators that stretch their videos out to increase revenue , but I admit that I'm thankful that those who do that are least thinking about what's be seen. I appreciate the video it is ABSOLUTELY the most informative motorcycle road tire video that I've seen (more likely anyone has seen). Thank you for your time and positive reply. P.S. My struggle with ADHD doesn't help, and I refuse to take medicine for this..(^-^)v
I had a massive highside on my Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport. A heavy old beast! I actually recovered it, just before the point of no-return. On a positive point, it cured my constipation
PMSL :-) Been there :-)
@@barebonesmc thanks for that painful memory lol
@@jezza117 cheers for sharing mate, have a great day
It's the pucker factor...lol
@@jefmatttab indeed 🙂
I have been riding fast bikes since 1974, in the beginning on Norton. You would have a 360 tyre on front and 410 on rear. The common tyres were Avon, with a round profile and Dunlop with a triangular profile. Being young, I listened to the marketing, wide tyres, triangular profiles for racers. So I went Dunlop, overtired the front end to 410, the rear end I couldn't without fouling the chain. And I rode like that. Several years later, I rebuilt the bike for probably the third time. I was learning so I moved my bike nearer the factory production racers. The ridiculously loud two into one pipe was dumped for standard Pea shooter silencers on 32 Inch pipes. It was faster and quieter. Tyres back to 360, 410 Avon. OMIGAWD it handled lighter, faster more precise, like a scalpel compared with an axe.
a great story that illustrates my point entirely, dont believe the hype, whoever is screaming about it 🙂 cheers for adding your bit mate
Original Ninja, I fitted a fatter tyre....it totally screwed up the handling ! I went back to the standard size, much better !
Sometimes they do just get it right lol 🙂Cheers for watching and for the comment mate. Ride Free 🙂
Sometimes they do just get it right lol 🙂Cheers for watching and for the comment mate. Ride Free 🙂
Changed from a 160 to a 200 on the rear of my yamie. Immediately had to be more careful into corners but would accelerate out of corners on the rear tyre very confidently. Never changed it back. It looked tough and I liked that. Plus it was a tricky job fitting the massive rear wheel and modified swingarm.
Great video, again... 😊 I'm so glad you mentioned countersteering in relation to tyres, excellent points and all well-made.
Cheers mate. Had an IAM’s saying he had recommended it to pupils and shared it on their forum so I feel honoured on that one 😊 sometimes people just do and say daft things about it all
Thank you for this new knowledge.
I always thought of tire width as only, wider for more stability & floatation over rough ground, and reducing the amount of sinking in and getting stuck in mud, sand, and snow, or, choosing narrower tires for more agility, and to purposely cut into loose material for cornerning.
But I never thought about choosing different tire width front & rear, to adjust oversteer/understeer balance at lean. Nor did I know that narrower tires are more likely to lowside, and less likely to high side, when they reach their limits.
I currently deliver things by e-bike in NYC.
The roads are very bad here, and my work bike is a hardtail. So, for added stability, safety, and comfort, I just put on a wider tire on the rear, and it worked. It goes over bumps, cracks, and rough surfaces so much better, but, it is noticeably harder to turn then I'm use to.
I have more emergency stops to practice, but I'm also guessing the larger outer diameter from this new rear tire, also puts more leverage on the rear brakes, means it's also less likely to lockup the rear, which is an issue I have been having with emergency stops. I don't know if it's the diameter or also the width that will help maintain rear grip.
I already wanted to put the same tire on the front, for the same comfort & stability benefits. I also love wider tires to protect hub motor wheels from being damaged by potholes, curbs, rocks, and tree bits. But you have shown me, I should chose tire width for handling right for me, and I guess tire profile for rim protection. And if the profile or width right for me, dosen't exist, in the rim size I want, then I also guess I can exchange tire width for profile height, by going to a narrower rim.
I'm very excited to test all of this, with my work e-bikes, and homemade electric motorcycles. Including a hub motor in the front for All Wheel Drive. Fine-tuning handling behavior with torque adjustment front & rear, and choosing tire widths front & rear.
I also thought about designing separate, horizontal suspension for lean angles, but it seems, at least for now, tire width will take care of that.
Again, thank you.
Glad it helped mate. Adding drive on front will change things a lot I would guess. And you are right that bigger higher profile tyres will provide more of a cushion for the hub motors. E-bikes aren’t my area of expertise but the basic principles are the same. Just change things one step at a time. Little changes can make a lot of difference. Good luck my friend
in my sportsbike riding days I found a 180 section turned faster than the 190 section the bike came with, and usually a bit cheaper to
I have used many combinations over the years, as long as they fit the rim width right it can be interesting to experiment. I guess i was going through a lot of tyres at one point and getting them cheap in batches, so I got more chance to experiment and trial the effects than most would
... a bit cheaper to what?
@@ClaudeSacthen the stock OEM 190/50/17. A 180/50/17 is usually 20-30$ cheaper than 190/50/17. The more expensive tires are 190/55/17 and 200/59/17; which a 6.0” wide rear will fit (180-200mm)
I love 180s..on My Harley Sportster. Great grip and lean ..🎉
Your tire width theory actually makes sense to me. I accidentally ordered a rear tire for the front of my bike once. I used it, because it cost me $300. I actually preferred the way it handled. Big old cruiser though, not any kind of sport bike.
i do try to match the size of the tyre to rim size, but each to their own 🙂
@@barebonesmc Same size tire, 150-80-16, just accidentally ordered a rear instead of a front.
@@squidduck I have to say its something ive never tried so cant say much 🙂
That's actually considered "going dark side"... But you would start with a car tire on the back first... I've heard of people getting 50,000 to 80,000 miles out of a car tire...
Most cruiser tires are never ridden near their limits of cornering adhesion. So they're essentially nothing more than rim protectors, and usually any old tire will 'work'...
Great explanation of this very important aspect of riding! So many get it wrong. Kudos for addressing this so well my brother!!
thanks for your support 🙂Cheers for adding your bit too mate. Ride Free 🙂
First time ive seen the bike wheel setup to show lean angle and give meaning ,very good explenations
Glad it was helpful mate. I do my best 😊 I’m a simple bloke lol. Sometimes people get too complex and miss the simple explanation 😊
paused @ 1:45~ I went from a stock 180 to a 200 on my 2013 dyna Fatbob. I had no question that
that's the size I wanted. It had everything to do with looks and I doubted performance would
be greater or less. In the end, My choice was left me very satisfied. The bit more meat set off a way nicer look.
Felt different cornering but nothing I couldn't get used to. I didn't feel any more manlier nor can i say that it
improved, or lessened the bike's overall handling. I say, nothing wrong with upping the rear width a bit. Unpause...
if we all thought the same it would be a boring world mate, but changing a bit within wheel rim parameters isnt an issue in most situations, i just dont choose anything bike related on looks or i wouldnt ride the Vstrom lol 🙂Cheers for watching. Ride Free 🙂
I upsized the rear of my sportster from 130 to 180 that was a bear to make fit. I’ll admit it wasn’t for the ride it just looked inadequate next to all the big Harley’s with rears wider than my cars. It’s a sportster so I wasn’t expecting great handling. It doesn’t really seemed to have influenced the handling much
@@chrissmith7669 i guess im just not really interested in the what it looks like as much as how well it works, i still have a standard relatively narrow rear on my FXDX and have left none Harley riders scratching their heads. one of the statements was "is your brake light not working?" because it does run on rails compared to most Harleys 🙂 see here th-cam.com/video/tlv0JgybX3Y/w-d-xo.html
@@barebonesmc I guess I’m spoiled. I’ve got a modern m8 Softail for days I want something that handles and the old sportster when I’m just playing around town. :-)
@@chrissmith7669 each to their own as they say 🙂 as long as it makes you smile thats all that matters 🙂
When roads were wet on my old beast 63 Norton 500 I would reduce tire pressure to 23 to 25 psi. A big factor as to wet heavily traveled roads is motor oil that oozes out during rain. Dry roads ... pumped up back to 30 to 32 psi. Anyhow I’ve always been a pleasure seeking slowish driver ... not into racing.
Wild days, and even wilder nights 🙂Cheers for watching mate. Ride Free 🙂
My first brand-new Moto Guzzi Monza 500 came with skinny A & M 38 Michelin tyres. In imperial sizes. I never found a better suited make of tyre yet, either for that Monza or my current 750-engined Monza. I could lean it over so far that I kept wearing away the edges of my bike boots. A pillion even collected some long grass down between the gap between her crash-helmet and visor, on a winding country road! Fun times. 😂😂
Wild days, and even wilder nights 🙂Cheers for watching mate. Ride Free 🙂
I run a 260 Metzler 888 on the back of my old Vrod. It handles much better than the original Michelin 240. The bike has a max lean angle of 32 deg and I'm 64 years old. You don't ride these bikes like superbikes so there is no issue with running a fat rear tire!
if it suits you and your riding thats fine mate. If we all thought the same it would be a boring world 🙂Cheers for watching. Ride Free 🙂
One of the biggest differences is tire pressure and how good you are at loading it upp and keeping it loaded.
Last "sport" bike i used on track was a Suzuki Gsx-s 1000f. Originally on 190/50r17 rear and 120/70r17 front. I switched the rear to a 190/55r17 and it became so much better at cornering. Tip in better, higher rear hight, easier to load up (flatten) and much more lean angle before running out of rear tire.
I went this way on my Honda 1000RR. I haven’t went back to a 50 on the rear. Makes turn it quick, and sure felt more confident in the corners.
In 1968 I got a mini-bike for my 10th birthday, the rear tire was 8" wide, and a narrow front tire, which didn't like to lean over and was dangerous, In 69, I got a motorcycle and have ridden until my second back surgery In 1998, for my H1 Kawasaki in 72, I went through a tire every 700 miles, so If I had a V-Max, I would choose a wide tire, just as I did when I was a drag racer, and for cornering I would chose a more narrower tire, I suppose It depends on what type of riding you do, Thank You Sir for your videos that help new riders decide what they need. 👍🇺🇸
thanks for your support 🙂Cheers for adding your bit too mate. Ride Free 🙂
YES!!! VICTORY COVERAGE ❤ I'm currently polishing a 2009 kingpin up, Please keep it coming, something sooooo good left to history 😥 at least Indian lives on thanks Polaris
🙂Cheers for watching and for the comment mate. Im sure i mentioned them somewhere else too ? trying to remember which video but it is eluding me, Ride Free 🙂
I received from Fortnine a set of new K591 Dunlop Harley Davidson tires that came stock on my 1996 XL 1200 S. My first set of those lasted 4000km WOT all the time, and drag racing at our local track.
Yes, my bike has seen several sets of tires.
@@bradyelich2745 finding a tyre that suits you and your bike is always good
in general the best tyre you want is the one with most grip, for road use.Ignore the fancy tyre threads and knobs on it and go for the tried and tested road performance one.
My 1985 GSXR-750 had a _huge_ (back then, 140 rear tyre!). Just 4 short years later, people freaked out at the _enormous_ 170 rear tyre on my 1989 ZXR750. Discussions were had as to the need for something so wide, with most bikers finding a 170 just extravagant and _totally unnecessary._
The zxr was because it was aimed so much at track riders I guess. The H1 and H2 were probably the most focused track weapons of their day
@@barebonesmc This sizes of tyres had never been seen before back in the day, certainly not on _any_ street bike. My local mechanic was amazed at the 170 tyre in the ZXR (as were the local police, who stopped me several times to check it was street legal).
@@garyt123how times change lol
Thanks for this excellent article.
I've got a 1990 fzr1000 exup similar to yours at 13:00.
This bike has a 3.5 inch width front rim and 5.5 inch rear.
Tires from factory were 130/60 and 170/60 respectively.
I think that the most important thing is the ratio between rim width and tire size.
Most newer bikes than my 1990 Yamaha have 120/70 and 180/55 for the same rim widths than mine.
I wanted a 120 width instead of the 130 size that nobody used after year 1990, but I didn't want to go to the 70% profile because my bike was already too lazy around small radius corners. So I ordered 120/60 which was a common size for the first honda cbr600.
Handling was improved after having replaced the old 130/60 with the new 120/60. First step done!
Regarding rear tires, I decided to go to 160/60 instead of 170/60, to maintain harmony after having gone narrower on front.
Handling got better, grip was excellent for wet roads but size was clearly too narrow for the high torque and power of my exup 1002cc.
I was leaving black marks after every rotary on first gear.
Bike behaviour was excellent but bumps were too noticeable and worse of all was that applying huge torque and up to 145hp degraded rear tire very quickly consequently.
Next I tried the modern size 180/55. No black marks anymore but handling was clearly worse after moving from 160 to 180mm width. Grip was excellent on good roads but it was no good in wet nor in bumpy roads either.
I observe quick degradation at the center of the rubber because my rim was not quite wide enough for a 180mm width.
Best modern bikes have a 6.0 inch rim to carry 180/55 or 190/50 tires, but my rim was only 5.5 inches wide.
Finally I got a 170/60 and now I'm happy. It rides well with this one and the 120/60 front one.
I agree that the minimum weight of any tyre is important because higher weight increases both the polar moment and non suspended weight resulting in much higher difficulty of turning and poorer suspension behavior.
In my youth, I raced my motocross Bultaco 370cc on roads, hill climbing against the clock, using 2.75 and 4.00 trial tires instead of the 3.00 and 4.50 standard motocross tires.
Handling and grip were both excellent, resulting in me winning very often during 5 years of racing.
It's clear to me that too wide a tire respect to the rim width is horrible because causes distortion of the shape of the tire, resulting in very bad degradation on the center and very poor grip.
Just the opposite of one might expect.
cheers for adding your piece mate, i knew it would be interesting. and it does seem like completely independently, we have reached very similar conclusions :-) have a great week my friend
@@barebonesmc Yes. It was great to find out that we completely agree.
I wonder why some riders were answering otherwise. One of them was very rude and I loved your well chosen words to him.
@@josemariatrueba4568 i always try to be polite 🙂 some people just dont appreciate it is also our differences that make the world an exciting place 🙂 in general, we do have the most respectful subscribers. people who can disagree gracefully lol. but as you say, it is always good to find like minded souls 🙂 ride free brother 🙂 we finally got to Germany today 🙂 I will put some raw footage up as we travel
I had always wondered why the general advice was not to mix brands between front and rear. I had never thought of geometry changes, etc.
A subject that is often overlooked because of fashions and fads 😊
Good video. A lot of nonsense talked about tyres by many. I've always preferred black and round tyres in the recommended sizes. Preferably long lasting thesedays.
i think the rubber is so good these days it outperforms me 🙂
Best explanation of wide or narrow tires I have heard yet
glad you enjoyed it mate 🙂 i do my best lol, it is a complex subject, Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching.Hope you will climb aboard. Ride Free 🙂
Great explanation. My first modern bike had a 190 rear and I never felt comfortable with it. The 120 front was similar enough to my previous bike but the back seemed very vague.
I'm used to the modern bikes now but that first bike felt very alien to me
I've been riding BMW R75/5 for some 20 yrs. (Still have 'em.) Riding, never racing. I'm a fan of light weight ( and low unsprung masses). Plus I rather go with less leaning angle for the same speed in corners (especially minding the cylinders ;-)
The original 75/5 had a dry weight of 190kg. After getting rid of the electric starter and it's one thick wire, it was 6kg less. Plus I was able to step down to a smaller 14Ah japanese battery. For a café racer, I'd rather go down one step on both front and rear wheel. Modern tires should be able to handle 50hp.
In perspective: this should be the dry weight of a Yamaha SR500ccm with 27hp. Much more weight could be reduced.
(The ignition coils weight 1,2kg. A double ignition coil from an older Suzuki is 360g. A standard seat is around 4,5kg. Located pretty much higher than the overall center of gravity.) I'm 63. I'm happy with that.
sounds an interesting build, and cheers for adding your thoughts mate, have a great day
On my classic 750 when customizing it I went with wider tires, but not 10 inch, and I used the same width on the front and back. It handles extremely well.
finding what suits you is the important thing 🙂Cheers for watching and for the comment mate. Ride Free 🙂
I don’t think so. My Moto Guzzi V50 Monza comes with skinny little tyres (90/90 - 18 front, 100/90 -18 rear) handles excellently. However, when I first bought it, some Dilbert had fitted LeMans 1/2 size tyres front and back. The tyre profile was more curved, the contact patch subsequently reduced, and at 75mph, it went into a death-weave. With the proper size tyres fitted, it was rock-steady to its’ max speed. And handled great again with no death weave. I’ve since put a 750 motor in it. And it now exceeds its’ original design speed - but remains 100% stable. That’s just my thoughts on the matter. Also with a massive rear tyre, the circumference reduces at peak lean whilst engine revs increase. That could end up with the engine hitting the Rev-Limiter in extreme cases. My M8 had a Harley-Davidson with a vast rear tyre and I’ve yet to see him lean it much. He admits he doesn’t enjoy the sensation on it through corners!
Great story 🙂Cheers for adding your bit mate. Ride Free 🙂
I put small rear tire on mine, much safer than the fat one, more bite on wet or loose gravel and I run tubes and less psi which aids traction.
You wouldn't really notice a 10 inch tyre's effects on handling on a bike with shite handling.
I was having a nitron suspension unit fitted and tuned to my bike . The guy told me to have a look at the Hardley Ableson outside the premises that was there to have it's suspension fixed, specifically to look at the rear springs. The left unit had two springs fitted on the damper each a different rate and the right unit had a single spring.
The guy that owned the business went on to say that was the standard arrangement from the manufacturer.
Apparently to , in some way , compensate for the rubber chassis.
Not one I’ve seen lol. But nothing surprises me now 🤣
I always feel like i come away from your Videos wiser and more educated. Thank you BB
I couldnt ask for more than that, if i can pass on a few of the things ive learned then thats all good as far as im concerned, thanks
Looking at motogp bike tyres, there's a uniformity among them related to speed and handling. For that sport, all the riders seem comfortable with tyre choice. Whatever bike you ride, find the tyres that suit you, you'll enjoy your bike more.
true words except for the MotoGP bit, MotoGP tyres are all tied up with contracts and are very rarely the best tyre for the job, and to be fair, the riders are a damn site better than me lol and that is a whole big rabbit hole :-)
@@barebonesmc What might we be seeing if all riders weren't bound by contracts and were able to choose their own tyres?
@@IamKlaus007 almost certainly more different makes and some different profiles and sizes. I still remember the years when Dunlop and Michelin both had tyre stock they tracelled around the circus with. and different tyres do just suit different bikes and riders
@@barebonesmc I guess better racing outcomes for some riders on their own choice of tyre, who knows. Could make for some interesting racing.
@@IamKlaus007 as with the engines and bikes, different tyres will have advantages on different circuits and surfaces, that was part of the unknowns in the days of multiple manufacturers. it got complicated when riders DIDNT get their choice because of contracts with the teams and tyre manufacturers. I just always think more choices are good, in most areas 🙂
This is so well explained! I really appreciate the video and knowledge thanks 👍
glad you enjoyed it mate 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching.Hope you will climb aboard. Ride Free 🙂
On a track day yesterday, I talked to a guy with a 200+ horsepower bike. He told me that in the bends it automatically reduced power to max 90 hp. Cornering power is only a fraction of max power. A light bike don't need fat tyres to go fast in the bends. My little bike with 110 front and 140 rear does corner at speeds surprising many sports bike riders. Closing in cornering, left behind on straights. Old light 2-stroke race bikes corners faster than most sports bikes. I think that front tyre width is just as important to discuss as rear tyres. Also a discussion about wet or dry conditions would be interesting.
Interesting... Do you mean the guys 200bhp bike had lean sensitive TC?
My bike has that but I've always thought of it as just using a more aggressive TC sensitivity as lean angle increases rather than available power being reduced as lean angle increased.
Maybe other Manu's do it a bit differently compared to my Gen 3 MT09?
Is it perhaps a proper race specced S1000RR with aftermarket mods where it can cut 2 cylinders to reduce torque while leaned over?
Cheers Mike, I wasnt just talking about the rear tyres to be clear, what i think is missed is the correlation (or not) of the 2 tyre widths.. The change in the angle of the frame is directly proportional to half the difference in width of the tyres at a preset lean angle. As with Paul, im interested to know the bike/electronics the guy was running. I know there are bikes that ramp down the power if the wheel lets go and the TC kicks in, or as with the anti wheelie device and holeshot systems where they ramp down the power if a preset series of conditions come into play, but im not sure ive ever seen a lean angle related power map. (that is not saying it doesnt exist, electronics on bikes is foreign territory for me :-) cheers for watching. I may do some others in time, but it isnt an area i pretend to be an expert in. There is so much about tyres that is bike and rider specific it is hard to make generalisations
@@barebonesmc Sadly didn't notice what bike he had. Not even sure of colour, maybe white. Just a very short talk before going home. I was only trying to point out that in bends most of friction is used for side forces, not for acceleration. So much power is only needed going straight.
@@Mike40M now that would be an equation and a half lol, lean angle vs tyre stiction vs surface abrasion and more, and then you have the slide and squirt factor, I wouldnt know where to start with that calculation, and im damn sure Joey Dunlop would have been able to use more power at higher lean angles than I ever could 🙂
@@barebonesmc Not to mention speedway, where loss of power results in close contact with the fence.
It's not just the tryes it is the size of the wheels but I understand what you are saying
true, overall radius/diameter is another key to what i was saying, but it was already getting complicated 🙂 profiles and as someone else said pressure too, a complicated subject
This was very insightful. Thank you, Sir
Glad it was helpful! Cheers
Wassup Barebones. Back with another cool vid 😎👍
Hi CTG, glad you enjoyed it, ill get back into the lounge at some point, have you got either of the bikes back yet?
😎👍
@@Messier87_M87 #GOATARMY 🙂 remember, youtubes algorithm values comments with 4 words or more in most 🙂
Thank you for this. Am no where near the speed experienced of most. I have an old heavy touring bike (Venture Royale 1200) that needs new tires. I am finding the sizes available for it are limited, in the type of treads that most interest me. So was considering wider tires to get the tire I like as well as the heavy load carrying capacity.
This video explains very well what to expect. Thank you!
I will stick with stock size. Now I just need to figure out if I can put a rear tire on the front, and what the pros-cons of that may be.
@@billybobbarker3175 moving size slightly as long as it is within range for the rim size isnt an issue, what sizes does it spec? and what is rim size? as to rear on front, that is one i have been quite baffled by for a long while, but unless i can understand it better i wouldnt do it personally. i would guess the carcass is made slightly differently to handle the different stresses caused by the changes in angle to road the front has to deal with, whereas the back i would guess is designed more for weight bearing and traction, but that isnt gospel at all, just me TRYING to understand the differences. the real problem is when people jump to a tyre thats just too big for the rim, in one of the other comments there is another explanation about the distortions caused by putting a tyre too big for the rim on, with a bike like that, load rating will be an important factor too its a big heavy beast, let me know rim sizes and type of tyre you want and i will have a look if you like see what i come up with
Oe rear 140/90-16 , oe front 120/90-18 Am having difficulty finding a “set” in those sizes. To get a set Am finding I either have to mix different brand/model of tire for front-rear, or choose a different size ratio, typically wider. For some options, to get a “set” means also chosing a “rear” tire to put on the front. Also my northern Canadian roadways are not all nice clean smooth blacktop. Much varied road surfaces, asphalt which often has sand or pebbles or dirt on it, and tar cracks -lotsa cracks. In other words, other than knowing I do not want the Dunlop 404, I have no idea, LoL
@@billybobbarker3175I’d say try Pirelli for the 16” rear then find similar tread pattern front to match. Sets is an industry con as long as profile is similar and you don’t mix bias ply and radial. Just make sure load rating is enough for such a heavy bike
Another thing, smaller vs bigger patch, well, if axle weight is 100 pounds and 2 inch patch has 50psi on it. And the smaller 1 inch pach would have 100 psi. But then bigger patch/tyre would desipate heat better. Theres a friction/weight coefficience chart somewhere, and temperature/adhesion. If irc those 2 are the biggest decisive factors but im no expert. Just like the way we have suvs hard to draw a line where necessity ends
good points, and both relevent, it is a very complex subject 🙂 with many facets
I live in Malaysia where mopeds are the way most people go around,the trend of skinny tires actually concerns me bc these kids are crashing their rides bc the lack of rubber when they lean..
Its even worse during wet conditions as the lack of grooves on the small tires they're using...
Welcome my friend, there is always a balance, and knowing your limits whatever you ride is the key. I am sure riding in Malaysia can be a very different challenge to riding here in the UK. I hope you will join us, thanks for the comment. It is a surprise the trend there is for skinny tyres
I also live in Malaysia and the vast majority of bike fatalities are these scooters. Riding beyond their ability or the scooters capability is the problem, not tire width.
@@douglasbuckland8280 problem being is that most the moped riders use small tires to go faster..so it compounds the aftermath...
I've got a B-king (naked hayabusa) with a 240 rear tyre. It's fine around town but the faster I go, the harder it is to turn. In fact over 120kph on the autoroute, it's dangerous because it's really difficult to do a lane change or quick change of direction.
I also have a Zontes 310v that came with a 180 rear tyre, I changed it for a 160 and it handles way better.
But you understand the difference my friend. Your not stupid.
A skinny rear on bking would look silly. So it's suits wider, you know it's not designed to have handle bar ends 3 inches of ground.
Cheers for adding Rufus, 2 very different bikes :-)
@oldgolfpunk, its all relative, ie, the size of the rear relative to the front. snd to be fair ive seen a few people scraping the pegs down on a BKing
Tire selection is important for Toprak's weekend race results, less so for his weekday ride on public roads to get a latte.
true words 🙂
racing and riding, light or heavy bike, plenty hp or not, size, weight and experience of rider, etc., all factors to consider. while on a 250cc, tried Metzler front tire which gave the feeling of traction going away, told the rider it's limits; tried a Dunlop which allowed you way more braking but once you reach the tire limit, you were a passenger. my humble opinion: skinnier tires for tight roads.
id agree with that 🙂 except the S20 just worked really well on the Daytona compared to how it worked on the EXUP's or the 750S Laverda, they were never my favourite tyre, they just suited the Daytona somehow
decking out the gp100 or similar is all you ever needed to know.
?? U lost me there
Stick to factory sizes on sportbikes.
certainly the place to start, but we all ride differently, different riders will get better results with different tyres, the key is only SMALL changes
actually yea can commend that, stick to factory size on pretty much every bike, its the tyre type that makes the most difference and intended purpose.
But what if you modify a sportbike's power? What if you give it active downforce like a hypercar? What if you give it All Wheel Drive with a hub motor in the front, or a system similar to Christini bikes?
Excellent vid bones. thanks for putting in the time! RRRRRRRRRRRR
thanks for your support mate. Hope life is being good to you 🙂
The only thing I know from white tires and narrow tires is that it doesn't matter how wide or now.Your tire is as far as the traction footprint goes because that's a function of how much your bike weighs as to much lift.You're getting from the tire.Narrow tiresuse higher pressure.White tires she is lower pressure. I can't even say for sure.Whether one is good for dirt and sandin or not. If it gives you a comfortable ride.The bike is stable.You don't get death wobble at forty to seventy miles an hour. do what you want
🙂Cheers for adding your bit mate. Ride Free 🙂
Cross-section or Width of Rear Tyres of my Bikes : 2022 Gen 3 Hayabusa (190mm), 2023 XDiavel 1260 V2 (240mm), 2021 Trident 660 (180mm), Scrambler 400X (140mm)
I so wish that my Busa had a 200-210mm rear tyre, just 10-20mm narrower than what i'd prefer, purely from Looks / Aesthetics point of view, ... it looks slimmer compared to the size or bulk of the whole bike, i know the cornering ability should get affected, with an already longer wheelbase, it'd be difficult to handle in twisties, but still...!
200mm is the Sweet Spot ... that's why MoToGP bikes have that tyre measurement
Bikes with 200mm rear tyre : KTM 1390 Superduke, Honda Goldwing Tour DCT, RSV4 Factory, Panigale/Streetfighter V4, CBR1000RR-R Fireblade SP, M1000RR, Ninja H2
Bikes with 190mm rear tyre : K1600GT, Katana/GSXR1000/Hayabusa, S1000RR, YZF-R1M, ZX-10R, Z-H2
Bikes with 240mm rear tyre : Diavel V4, Fat Boy, Rocket 3R, Suzuki Intruder/Boulevard M1800R
did you see this link lol, skinny tyre 600cc 60HP single v 200HP Superbikes th-cam.com/video/dEYEn_fpv-4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jxs_ABRS3NUiLj0H
@@barebonesmc that was amazing, 600cc Single beating Litre-Class monsters with thicker/wider/bigger tyres
@@chirag4 what we are told and what the truth is are sometimes very different 🙂
@@barebonesmc if i were to KeeP just one Bike for a Lifetime, my pick would be CCM Spitfire 600 single - producing 55 HP only
OR
Fantic Caballero 500 Scrambler (450cc single)
There is a very famous photo of Ray McCollough at the Ulster I believe, on a TD/TR yam, or an early TZ. He is SO far over! And that on probably Dunlop triangular tyres about 3cm wide! Hahaha. A hero.
Great subject and vid has always BareBones. Many thanks.
hero's one and all, the Ulster GP is one of the best races there is. Over here I still remember watching Jarno Saarinen do things that seemed impossible at the time
You will find he ran a very low psi.
@@evelghostrider maybe, as someone else said, i think we all did back then on track or road
Right, so between my old grey cells and an old roadrace buddy of mine😅. The tyres to use in 'the day' were Dunlop KR76 front and KR96 rear. Totally triangular!😅. Grant and Ditchburn used them on the works 750 Kawasakis at times, Croxford and Peter Williams on the Nortons. Oh, happy days.....showing my age too. 😅😅😅
@@garytong3395 mine too mate lol, i always remember Croxford vs Chatterton at Cadwell was always an event 🙂
Best explanation I’ve ever read! Thank you!
glad you enjoyed it mate 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching. Ride Free 🙂
excellent analysis. indeed a very complicated subject.
got me a few pointers i did not thought about, thx
wider then "normal" tires are ... not my thing. and wider then factory tires on the same rim ... not a bright idea.
modern rubber it so good that i think the normal rider should stick with the factory dimensions
glad you enjoyed it and it was useful mate, as you say, a complex subject, and one where small changes in size can make a profound difference in geometry when leant over in a corner 🙂
You could say about this important subject, “it’s where the rubber meets the road”.
Welcome aboard mate, enjoy the ride and cheers for the support
I ride a cruiser, not a sport bike. With wider tires, you will feel every crack and crevice in the road surface more than with narrower tires.
interesting, i ride a Harley among the others, but it is an FXDX with much narrower tyres than most cruisers, but i have a Laverda with old school skinny tyres on too, actually, i would say that dependent on tyre pressure, the narrow tyres jolt more, but you dont hit so many lumps and bumps lol, a bigger tyre can float over bumps a narrow one will feel more, but it is a complex one
Wide tires like to stay upright but with counter steering it will will be easier to corner when the tire doesn't really want to. I have ridden both cruisers, a victory hammer and the vegas jackpot and both have wide rear tires but when you get used to its handling, and not having a vast technical knowledge about tire widths, they do the job for me.
you didn't mention though as with wider tyre contact patch increases but pressure to the ground decreases so it's all compromise.
as is all life 🙂 and yep, there are many many interactions
Angel GT was pretty good on my XR but the Diablo II with a slightly wider tire made it much better at point and shoot which is what I like.😎
Honestly, with me its about using what the bike has as best i can, With the Daytona it was just better at late braking and early on the power, whereas the grey EXUP does better if you accelerate through the corners more gradually.increasing the power. The Naked EXUP is more YZF750 than FZR now and front is lower profile and it turns in faster, none compare to the 750S Laverda I had to be fair though, that thing just handled like nothing I have ever ridden before. The older one Im riding now is still a learning curve. but it does track cleanly through the corners
@barebonesmc The problem I am having now is dragging the kickstand.
_THAT_ can give a guy a heart attack.😳
the Diablo is good on a decent surface, we just dont have many roads they would suit around me now lol, you need an ADV bike with big block tyres to get to the end of the road now 🙂
@@sadwingsraging3044 PMSL 🙂
I believe the biggest size one can go (without noticeable handling changes from OEM S/S) is 240mm.
Now with production bikes you can get OEM sized rubber in 17” (240/50/17 Pirelli) compared to “Touring tread tires” in 240/40/18. The Ducati Diavel is to blame. The added weight doesn’t help tho.
280/300/360 rear’s are for “trailer queens” and “bar hoppers”…
On the other hand, going from a 190 to 180 rear (GSXR K1) will SHARPEN the handling even MORE than SWB with 190 rear (OEM size).
outside of the FASHION factor, rim size against tyre size is key, moving one size up or down as long as its within range of rim size is where it gets personal, but sounds like youve come to similar conclusions to me really 🙂
Thick tires look cool, which is why I think they're so popular. The problem is a lot of the big bikes that were built to use these tires tend to be really expensive.
each to their own mate, personally, i dont give a damn what looks cool, i want what works best
@@barebonesmc as long as they do what they were designed to is cool.
@@williambuchanan77 yep, but that depends how far you push them and how easy or hard you want to make the process of turning
@barebonesmc if you're pushing your bike too hard you're probably speeding. You'll have fans chasing you, you'll notice them with those blue flashing lights and the smell of rotten bacon 😂
@@williambuchanan77 true, except i dont always ride on the roads 🙂 on the roads im quite a steady rider, and even on track im not so quick nowadays 🙂
very true, a small bike with skinny tyres will handle and corner better than a big heavy bike for sure. but the bike is designed and set up for a particular tyre/wheel size. I remember riding a mates CB750 which had as was the fad at the time of a 16" 'Fat' rear, it was horrible. like wise I wouldn't put an 120x18" on the back of my 916! However 'modern' sports bikes with 120x17 - 180x17 tyres have grip and handling far above almost any other combination IMHO.
true words, but re "have grip and handling far above almost any other combination" i would say that is perfectly true, however, i would add that even tyres on most 100x18 -120x18 combinations have more grip than most riders will ever use now too. 🙂
Excellent, good thought out discussion, on a complex subject. Thanks
glad you enjoyed it mate 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching. Ride Free 🙂
Tyre pressure is more important than size.. most people run to high of psi.. the diagram of tyre size was of a tyre running 100psi as it had zero degree of tyre flex.
Weight of bike, weight of person, on my road racing bikes I ran what people would call very low psi .. 24 rear 26 psi front. Even down to 22 and 24.. the tyre needs to flex, if your running high or manufacturer psi its maybe not a good thing. Suspension also plays a massive part.
On my road bike, it has a much larger tyre on the rear for looks, but it barely gets leaned over so has pretty much no affect.
indeed there are many factors involved. and i guess i tend to run lower than rated pressure unless im carrying a heavy load, but that is just where it gets personal for me, finding the right combination for you and your bikes is the key, cheers for watching
You start low with road racing because you’re expecting to get the tires hot so the pressure will increase on its own. When riding on the street you don’t typically get the tires that hot so you need to start with a little higher pressures.
There’s normally a plate on the bike that lists recommended tire pressures, but it’s often for when loaded.
Not quite myfriend, when you use nitrogen to fill tyres it does not expand. Its constant. I understand not all have access to such air..
But even without that, people use to much psi in tyres. You can tell even with the youtube wantabe road racers who crash alot in their videos its down to wrong pressure, too much psi combined with poor suspension set up does not allow tyre to bend or flex, its rock hard. Take a drag bike or car, when the trye squats under load its for grip, if they were too high psi, it has no grip.
People think tyres need to be hard as nails, my custom bobber runs 20 and 22 psi where harly riders run near 40 psi so when you brake hard, the front wheel skids as it cant grip the road.@NBSV1
@@evelghostrider Nitrogen still expands and contratcs with temperature. Regular air is about 70% nitrogen anyway. One of the main problems is moisture in the air from a regular compressor. That will cause it to expand a lot more as it heats up. With nitrogen it’s been processed and had the moisture removed which is the biggest difference. I’ve dealt with a lot of vehicles running nitrogen and regular air. As long as the regular air is really dry the difference is maybe 1-2 psi when hot.
Running the tires at a lower pressure doesn’t always mean more grip. There’s an optimal range. Drag tires are designed to work at lower pressure so more tire is in contact with the ground. Regular car or bike tires don’t respond the same at low pressure and you’ll actually get less grip if the pressure is too low.
As you have dealt with air vrs nitrogen you should understand the pros and cons.
I am well into my very late years, i started racing motorcycles aged 5, at 15 years old id left school and had a successful business. Building and preping race bikes for motocross, road and tracks, by 18 i was into doing the same for road cars then race cars. I am not going into every tiny detail that helps people achieve grip my friend as its endless.
My point still stands, the normal rider would achieve much better feel from lower tyre pressure than the standard pressure all manufacturers suggest.
But most riders still add more air... of course if a tyre has to low psi it affects grip. But do you know how low ? You cant as it depends on set up. But low tyre pressure gives more grip than high tyre pressure.
To be quick you find the sweet spot between too soft and to firm for your weight and set up.
Less air is better than more air... as hard tyres cant fold as much as softer ones. Just as a hard compound does not stick aswell as a super aoft compound. @NBSV1
Harley riders (I am one, for the record, 2021 Sport Glide), often make me laugh.
Those super wide tyres (such as on the POS Breakout) cause terrible and dangerous understeer. I rode a Breakout and couldn’t believe how badly/dangerously it pushed the front in corners.😳
i have an FXDX and on many occasion have been asked why i dont put a wider tyre on the back lol
Lowering hurts your cornering more than these tires. Two of my bikes run a 300 and 360 kit. You can season yourself to them.
sort of, if you mean the sort of Harley lowering that means there is no lean angle, but then if you are talking the sort of lowering that the old Guzzi Fallcone S and Aermacchi's used to lower the frontal area and centre of gravity, thats a different story 🙂 cheers for watching and adding your bit mate
Great vid, i think tyres are personal preference, i think we all find our faves but i would not change sizes, if honda fit a 180 section for example, everything has been designed around it. You can have any of the best big sticky boots money can buy but a yam 350LC with avon roadrunners beats them all😂
as long as you stick with tyres that fit the rim size you can change sizes a little without any issues. and sometimes it does work better, but it is all very personal for sure, ill take the LC but you can keep the roadrunners lol
@@barebonesmc my tyre shop used to get really soft compound roadrunners, used to get the rubber scrubbed up the sides up like the GP riders. Lol
@@cbrboy76 sticky isnt a word i would associate with roadrunners lol
Used to run roadrunners on my 400/4
@@Mr-ue2ul I think most of us did, they were in many ways the best of a bad bunch, rubber just wasnt as grippy then
I’ve had quite a few what are called ‘superbikes’ and most had 190 rears but they actually turned quicker with a 180 and that’s what I stuck with
Thanks, i agree with most of your video, i ask people this question, which would you rather have step on your foot a 99lb woman or 175lb guy, most people say the 99lb woman, then i tell them how wrong they are, 99lbs on your foot in a high heel is 99lbs in about onehalf inch square ,comes down to pounds per square inch , maybe that will help you explain to people, :)
true words. in the end there are so many interactions and effects that as i said, it would be many years of work to truly understand it all
Wide tires are for “POWER” and big power or TQ. They are for looks and style. If its on a Ducati its to put down power in a straight line.
i do sort of agree. having said that, suspension can play just as big a role in getting the power down as tyres do. narrow tyres with a well set up suspension may well get the power down better than wide tyres with poorly set up suspension :-) in a different vein, you could minimise the comment and say wide tyres are for power in a straight line lol, all are equally true :-) have a great weekend mate, cheers for adding your bit
Very interesting video. Thanks.
glad you enjoyed it mate it is a complex issue but hope this cleared some of it up 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching.Hope you will climb aboard. Ride Free 🙂
Have a great night, my friend! Wonderful information. The good old tire debate, 😁
Hope I added something useful to it 🙂 cheers for the support
Fat tires don’t like corners, it’s that simple!
lol, sort of, but that is relative. and things are rarely that simple unfortunately. If you are talking to someone on a bike with VERY narrow tyres, a SLIGHTLY wider tyre may be the solution 🙂Cheers for watching and for the comment mate. Ride Free 🙂
@@barebonesmc not talking about skinny tyres but the big fat things some fools think look good. A 180 rear will handle better than a 200 on my Super Sport when racing. 🇦🇺🏍
@@MICHAEL-ys3pu I have had similar, and in general, i would say the manufacturers tend to go bigger than they should these days, the reality, i'm not Casey Stoner, John McGuiness or Joey Dunlop 🙂 and I ride on nasty roads full of potholes too lol
After returning to riding tyre pressures i dont really understand,why are recommended pressures higher than on older bikes
maybe in part because they can be, because the rubber is better. but i will be honest and say i hadnt really thought much about it, the weight of modern bikes might be part of the reason too, cheers for adding
I have to be honest, I have always just ridden my bike to suit itself ,myself , the road and the weather. Regardless of the performance of the bike engine, I would guess that I have rarely actually used much more than 40 BHP. Tyres....again , my view is perhaps different to most.I am simply not interested in superior corner speed and sure footed side grip, I am interested in how the tyre and the bike stops in an emergency... does the bike just give up and dump me on the road or does the bike stand itself up or will the bike simply allow me to lose speed and attain a controlable drift. The tyre is just part of the package of weight distribution, rider, suspension, temperature, air pressure. Tremendously complicated as pointed out in this article. Also pointed out in this article is how the rider has to ride different machines with different tyres in different ways. I am not the most skilled rider and so I ride very much taking the sort of lines whereby if I have to brake suddenly , I have the room to stand the bike up. This doesnt always work since reflex panic reaction often takes over and I end up dumping the whole thing onto the road... how many times have we heard the "hero" tale " I had to lay the bike down"....total rubbish!Panic takes over and we mostly all do it! On one occasion as I was sliding down the road, I found that my sledging experience came in very handy.!The worst tyres I have ever encountered have , perhaps coincidentally, always been standard fitment.
Some good points well put mate 🙂Cheers for the comment. Ride Free 🙂
Hi, yes the BEST is the Size the bike came with new, we cannot play with the designed geometry. I will always use the Original size.. Cheers Chris
You might be surprised. I would say it is definitely the place to start, small profile and width changes CAN improve things at times on some bikes though, the key is small, and not without careful consideration. On the Vstrom I use a more agressive 80 section front than the standard 90, purely and simply because it cuts through the dirt better. remember, the bikes are designed around people who are smaller nd lighter than me in general, and are designed and fittted with tyres that might not suit my particular riding style. there are always nuances. but you are right in general, at least to a certain extent. The lower profile front on the naked EXUP made it far better too. it turns in faster and holds its line better. there are always exceptions, cheers for the comment, have a great weekend
No worries,,, safe riding please!! ENJOY !!!
@@chrispulham4779 you too mate
Cheers, im still learning but sure enjoying my bike.
@@chrispulham4779 and thats the key mate, have a great day
Is the contact patch really that much larger, or just a different shape?
The tire wants to be round and weight presses it flat, creating the contact patch.
So 40psi with 120lbs of weight is 3 inches of contact regardless your tire size... so the geometry of the tire and ratio of diameter or distance from axel is creating the ride profile.
My guess understanding is wider over longer contact patch better transmits torque to the ground, thus big cruisers and sport bikes have wide tires at the cost of heavier lean in and less overall lean angle and why Moto GP throws out a knee while Moto3 and street keeps the knees in to maintain control and not add additional and unnecessary instability by peacocking the knee out.
lol, big questions 🙂It will be larger in general yes, but there are always exceptions, pressure applied to a smaller area will create more distortion than if the same pressure is applied to a larger area so yes the smaller tyre will distort more, but that isnt likely to make as much difference as the width, profile and the engineered in distortion pattern. Pressure changes within a bigger tyre from heat are also different, so the pressure change dure to heat is more with a narrower tyre as the tyre and air heats up faster. I hadnt thought about wider v longer in relation to torque in all honesty. but yes the wider tyre is harder to lean and requires more lean angle for the same turning radius. as to knee/elbows, out/down much of that is very personal, Jaarno Saarinen hung off narrow tyres, John McGuinness rides much more perpendicular to the bike, just as Mick Grant, Mike Hailwood and many others did. this is where it gets endless lol, every time you think you considered everything, you remember something you forgot 🙂 cheers for adding the comment mate 🙂
I meed yo get me a set of 140/17-17 for yhe back of a bike i want/cant name, ots a lot like rhe cbx250, looking t pilot streets, b46 and changing the back to 150/60 to te
where are you? i would need rim widths and ideally bike to make a guess
Ok. That all made a lot of sense. So " Throwing the cat among the Pigeons " what is your opinion on Car tyres on the rear of big touring bikes?
lol, I bought a Harley, that was a move far enough to the Darkside for me :-) I cant imagine they would work well on British roads, we dont have so many straight bits :-)
Yeah, that explains why Moto GP bikes run a 120 section rear tyre...
There's much, much more to this; like the fact that all of the talk about the relevant sizes of front and rear tyres here assumes that the front and rear wheels take the same line, which they don't exactly. There's also the ever changing weight distribution in three planes, slip angle, and a whole bunch of other stuff to take into account.
Indeed, as i said, there are many forces at play, some that work with and some that work against each other, it is a very complex subject. and to be clear, i wasnt assuming anything, i was trying to illustate a certain point, and that is just 1 aspect of the whole issue.
I read a cool story of how Yamaha had developed the fzr around the Dunlop k591 and it made sense. It was the profile of the tires that was important. If the engineers didn't design the bike around it seems like it's a guessing game
interesting. i was never a fan of Dunlop tyres to be honest, I found the EXUP's ran much better on Conti's. whereas my Daytona hated the Conti's and wants S20 Bridgestones or Michelin 2CT's. the EXUP really didnt like the S20, but was ok on the 2CT's, so Michelin won as the best general use i would say. but it shows how much difference tyre choice can make, the 2CT has a sharper turn in, the S20 has more feel when it starts to slide, and with the Conti's on the EXUP, it just never seemed to let go. 🙂Cheers for adding your bit mate. Ride Free 🙂
@barebonesmc had to do with the arc the front and rear tire chosen by the engineers and the way the frame worked with them. Was a pretty cool story if you can find the original. Cool post , take care.
@@seanokeefe703 interesting stuff, i will have a look when i get chance 🙂
I have found it is more the weight of the bike than anything. I have around 50 years of riding experience, on a bike that is 200 lbs. the tires are about the same, if you are over 1000 lbs. you need 2.5 to 1 rear tire, this will help the bike turn, if you go bigger like 4 to 1 you have a harder time turning at slow speed. and yes, the wife and I and the bike is around 1400 lbs. loaded.
I reckon we were close to half a ton rolling on the last 6K mile European tour on the Vstrom and it has barely a 1.5 to 1 ratio on the tyres with a (relatively) skinny tyre set up with semi off road tyres and it did everything i asked and kept us both smiling. As with most things, no one size fits all, cheers for adding your bit mate
@@barebonesmc WOW, I bet that was beautiful ride.
@@craigg4925 it was, some amazing roads and out of the way places, i did start to edit the footage and got about 5 episodes in, but other videos took over. i have recently been doing bits of editing again, but im off again soon, so bike maintenance takes priority 🙂
@@barebonesmc Well hell I guess I need to subscribe to your channel. 😀
@@craigg4925 welcome aboard mate, we do have a great bunch of subscribers, and there are some very interesting conversations in the comments too, surprisingly, we get very little in the way of stupid or insulting comments, and i dont delete any so what you see is what you get 🙂
Help : i really like the 80/20 ..road tire - cause i live on 1mile dirt road ... then i stay on pavement! yet im crazy about -want last looong time before needsreplaced. any ideas ?
there is always a compromise somewhere lol, I use Mitas E07's and E10's, good mileage and good on dirt but easy on the road too
If you care about handling wide tires stink. Had a 240 on one of my Harley’s - that combined with a slightly longer rake than some bikes it was horrible in parking lots and slow speed turns - which is a large percentage of most peoples riding.
i wont argue 🙂
Bobbed heirloom basketcase '79 shovel; staying under 88 In. displacement, trimming a few lbs. off the flywheel, 4×4(ish) w/offset wrist pins, mild stroke...19" mags, 140 in front 180 in back. Mid controls as well
I get so much stick for the mid controls on my FXDX I thought i was the only person that preferred them lol
Due to all the conflicting info I go with what the bike manufacturer recommends, because I am not a motorcycle engineer.
id say thats always the best place to start, at least size wise, branding is irrelevent on that point tthough, id have never been able to take the Vstrom so far off road if i had always stuck with the original road tyres 🙂
Choppers with 300 series tires on the rear handle like shit at low speeds but choppers are choppers and fat tires are cool! A 300 on the back of a sport bike looks cool but eats up allot of power and is harder on chains but sometimes we do things for fun not because they are particle. When doing 23 26 or 30 inch front wheels the tires don't seem to get the best life but those wheels are all heavy and the extra weight dose make for a better ride especially on the highway. I have never been fond of the 23 and up wheels myself but everyone has different taste I do like the new trend of running a 180 series front wheel on the HD street glides because not only do they look cool but the tires last forever and you are probably tripling the weight of the OEM combo and they ride better than stock at any speed. When racing we go the other way with with the lightest wheel and tire combo possible like carbon fiber wheels or magnesium so we don't waste HP.
Fyi this channel is about motorcycles, not obsolete farm equipment.
@@Emily-ou6lq cruel lol
honestly, a 23 inch wheel is a bit silly to me, and i guess if looking cool was my priority then i wouldnt still be riding a Vstrom most 🙂 to me, the priority is that it does everything i want it to without breaking, but if we all thought the same it would be a boring world 🙂
I put a lot of miles on k70 Dunlap tires they lasted longer than round tires .
long lasting and good grip are 2 different criteria though 🙂 the old Avon Speedmasters lasted forever, but there were sacrifices lol
For long enough Dunlop triangular's were order of the day a profile no longer seen?
Maybe not quite as extreme, but there are some examples of a more triangular profile about, just not as extreme :-)
Only ridden once with triangular tyres on a Aermacchi 350 racer. What I noted was that the very narrow centre section made it difficult to go a straight line. When at the leaning angle with most contact patch it was very stable resulting in that it was hard to change turning radius. Making overtaking more difficult.
@@Mike40M I too rode on triangulars mainly because those that knew better used them. I must admit the tyres were a major but for the clubman getting every last HP out of the engine seemed to be de rigueur de day with scant regard to how all this is transmitted to the road!
Good vid...I run a 260 on rear, cruiser, felt like a whale at first after 1k never think about it, get used to like all bikes, 85k now, but you can have some fun with your mates riding behind you in the rain lol as in rooster tail...ride safe...
as long as you have fun thats all that matters mate, enjoy the ride
The truth is, it depends. It depends on the goals of the rider and the bike. Examples, dark side on a Goldwing (using a car tire) is a great solution for cost effectiveness and durability. If optimal performance on track is your goal, then stick to the manufacturer suggestions. There is not one single answer to this question.
indeed 🙂 i did say a lifetimes work to take every aspect into consideration 🙂
. Roadrace tires w/ low aspect ratios are great. Huge truck size rear tires on a fat boy make the bike want to fight you in a turn, and go straight off the road!
of course it depends what and how you are riding :-) Road race tyres are no good on gnarly single tracks, they need a good surface. but i get what you are saying :-)
@@barebonesmc know what you mean, got caught on a flooded road yesterday, on my RC390 W/ CONTI SPORT ATTACKS. Took me an hour to get the mud out of my fairings! 😆 reminded me of the Paul Simon song, " slip sliding away!"
@@hatchetjack1031 lol the joys eh 🙂
@@barebonesmc 😆 👍
We were on 170s on 600 super bike and 180s on the 750 super bike this was in 96
and? as I said in the video, there is always a personal preference and riding style factor. no one solution is always best for every environment
There absolutely is one simple answer for the best road tyre profile; the answer is MotoGP (WSBK) in the wet!
depends on use, no use on useless potholed roads really, more of a pain, and as i said, different tyres suit different bikes and riders. there is no hard and fast rule in reality
2 advantages of narrower tires (esp 150 vs 140) , less rotational mass and less lean angle needed for a same corner...
Yep, pretty much bang on
Polar moment of inertia grows quickly with heavier wheels.
Suspension works badly when adding non suspended weight. One extra kilogram is bad at the wheels but is almost nothing on top of the seat.
@@josemariatrueba4568 wise words 🙂
It isn't mentioned here, but a basic criterial of tire selection is LOOKING COOL....... Sorry about the science....But that's how it is.....
Most of us believe a sliderule is the authority of a tire exiting a corner. So much for our engineering acumen......
Here's to skinny women and fat tires!
lol
And the current fashion of putting fat knob lies on the front wheel of custom bobbers
lol, yep, although the places ive taken it i wish i had knobblies on the FXDX a few times lol
I find wide tires give a false feeling of center, making the central weight of the bike offset and I wasn't feeling comfortable once I tried wider tires, hard to explain but I don't think they are better for handling corners etc.
I think you hit the nail on the head there, but it does seem to work for some bikes in a certain way. a good designer can find solutions, but i prefer to stick to keeping the basic principles as right as possible so you dont need to design the flaws out afterwards
I think in general larger bikes have wider tyres ninja 400 looks about right with a 150. A ninja 1000 probably needs a 180 to looks the same.
i wasnt thinking of looks at all here to be honest. and there are many things that go into the decision, especially as i said, what tyres suit the bike, looks and performance are very different ideas though, cheers for the comment mate, a complex subject as i said
No. These a point where the width just makes it impossible to turn... Which I guess some Americans is fine as they seem to not care about turning (from watching some of their car and bike shows)
Much as i would agree in some ways, we shouldnt generalise or people might think we still walk around with a knotted handkerchief on our heads in the summer lol. glad you enjoyed the video mate 🙂 Theres plenty more on the channel, hope you will look around and find something your interested in. there is more on the website too. and there will be more to come. Cheers for watching.Hope you will climb aboard. Ride Free 🙂
for your bike to handle the width + diameter of the front and rear tyre have to be the same.
sort of, if only it were that simple, but in many ways yes, that is true 🙂Cheers for watching and for the comment mate. Ride Free 🙂
going bigger with out moding anything is pointless unless its for looks but it can be done i have a Yamaha 1998 Fazer 600 stock is 110~160 i now run 120 ~190/55 and it is way better BUT i have also changed all the suspension to Aprilla 2000 RSV mille with rsvr magnesium wheels a Yamaha R1 2000 rear subframe and have lost 40kg
sounds like an interesting build 🙂
Nice
cheers mate, if i could ask, in future, youtube values comments of 4 words or more so it helps if you say a few more 🙂
i put a ten milmeter wider on my gsxr1100 on the rear from a 160 to 170it slowed down the handling in the cornersi did not like iti could corner harder with narrow tire
A good point well put mate 🙂Cheers for the comment. Ride Free 🙂
I'm to hear about all this knowledge he received from engineers, journalists, and tire manufacturers. Okay, he starts sharing this after 6 minutes into the video
patience is a virtue.....................:-)
@barebonesmc Absolutely agree. Time is precious...(^.^) There are too many content creators that stretch their videos out to increase revenue , but I admit that I'm thankful that those who do that are least thinking about what's be seen. I appreciate the video it is ABSOLUTELY the most informative motorcycle road tire video that I've seen (more likely anyone has seen). Thank you for your time and positive reply. P.S. My struggle with ADHD doesn't help, and I refuse to take medicine for this..(^-^)v
@@barebonesmc Absolutely subscribed
@@antlee1579 welcome aboard mate, i do my best, and im glad you found it informative
IF THEY'RE NOT BETTER THEY'RE STILL COOL AS SHIT! 😁😁😁
if we all thought the same it would be a boring world mate, 🙂Cheers for watching. Ride Free 🙂