Maine U.S. here Andy. I've used the PFERD ( also Stihl 2in1 ) system on my 2 chain types ( 4 saws ). It does both edge and raker with each pass. Look up PFERD . Good tutorial BTW.
Ah yes, I did a video about those a few years ago, all good but in my opinion for the occasional user and novice they make the chain too aggressive, taking the depth gauges down to 0.9mm, cheers
@@TheInfoworks Hey, I use a chain to cut aggressive. For many of us cutting for heat, for blowdowns, for active forestry the PFERD system WITHOUT POWER works extremely well.
The bigger the cutter, the bigger the file, 3/8P is 4mm file, 3/8 super is 5.5 file, 325 is 4.8mm file, 1/4 is 3.2mm file all with the 20% above the cutter top plate, sounds like another video, cheers
Excellent tutorial, thank you. I got in the habit of over-tensioning the chain somewhat while sharpening so the links don't lift/tilt as much with the filing. My thinking was if they are more stable during filing, I can get a more consistent grind on each tooth or raker. I was wondering if you had an opinion on whether or not that is a good idea.
It's very important for the tension to be correct for sharpening and cutting. As long as the cutters stay still that's grand, too tight however leads to excessive bar and chain wear, cheers
Pretty informative tutorial, yes. Thanks, Mr. Reynolds. I always clamp my bar in the vice during sharpening AND tighten my chain MUCH tighter than what I normally run with to reduce / eliminate chain wobble / tilt. When the chain has been sharpened, I flop and dress the bar, inspect the drive sprocket for normal / excessive wear, install the SECOND previously sharpened chain, and THEN adjust the chain tension back to normal cutting tension.
Clearly explained as always Andy. I guess i really should use a depth gauge. I tend to wait until the cutter is about 1/3 sharpened back, then give each depth gauge 2 sleightly angled file strokes with the full length of a chainsaw flat file. Whic🎉h does tend to make it a bit harsh on full chisel .325 chain, but fine on 3/8. Just watched an American video on square filing, but looks difficult to get right. Heres one to throw into the mix, do your viewers find 3/8 holds an edge longer than .325 chain? I dont use semi chisel, but people seem to think it requires less sharpening?
Ben, I would think that a 3/8 cutter has a longer cutting edge and they are on larger saws with more power. A combination of the 2 might give that impression, however you can't beat a saw that pulls into the work, cheers
Thanks great info's.
That's grand, cheers
Maine U.S. here Andy. I've used the PFERD ( also Stihl 2in1 ) system on my 2 chain types ( 4 saws ). It does both edge and raker with each pass. Look up PFERD . Good tutorial BTW.
Ah yes, I did a video about those a few years ago, all good but in my opinion for the occasional user and novice they make the chain too aggressive, taking the depth gauges down to 0.9mm, cheers
@@TheInfoworks Hey, I use a chain to cut aggressive. For many of us cutting for heat, for blowdowns, for active forestry the PFERD system WITHOUT POWER works extremely well.
Great,thanks for your educational information %
No worries, hope you are a subscriber, more up soon, cheers
Finally, a clear explanation. Now if someone will explain why there are so many sizes of the gullet and why the files never seem to match.
The bigger the cutter, the bigger the file, 3/8P is 4mm file, 3/8 super is 5.5 file, 325 is 4.8mm file, 1/4 is 3.2mm file all with the 20% above the cutter top plate, sounds like another video, cheers
Excellent tutorial, thank you. I got in the habit of over-tensioning the chain somewhat while sharpening so the links don't lift/tilt as much with the filing. My thinking was if they are more stable during filing, I can get a more consistent grind on each tooth or raker. I was wondering if you had an opinion on whether or not that is a good idea.
It's very important for the tension to be correct for sharpening and cutting. As long as the cutters stay still that's grand, too tight however leads to excessive bar and chain wear, cheers
Pretty informative tutorial, yes. Thanks, Mr. Reynolds.
I always clamp my bar in the vice during sharpening AND tighten my chain MUCH tighter than what I normally run with to reduce / eliminate chain wobble / tilt. When the chain has been sharpened, I flop and dress the bar, inspect the drive sprocket for normal / excessive wear, install the SECOND previously sharpened chain, and THEN adjust the chain tension back to normal cutting tension.
@@petermarshall3393 Thank you for that, I do similar.
Clearly explained as always Andy. I guess i really should use a depth gauge. I tend to wait until the cutter is about 1/3 sharpened back, then give each depth gauge 2 sleightly angled file strokes with the full length of a chainsaw flat file. Whic🎉h does tend to make it a bit harsh on full chisel .325 chain, but fine on 3/8. Just watched an American video on square filing, but looks difficult to get right. Heres one to throw into the mix, do your viewers find 3/8 holds an edge longer than .325 chain? I dont use semi chisel, but people seem to think it requires less sharpening?
Ben, I would think that a 3/8 cutter has a longer cutting edge and they are on larger saws with more power. A combination of the 2 might give that impression, however you can't beat a saw that pulls into the work, cheers
@TheInfoworks sharp when they do. 👍
La traduction automatique est aussi bonne que celle d'une vache espagnole. Arrêtez d'utiliser cette IA qui n'est pas au point !
Hi, that's a comment for Google, I don't know how these things work, cheers
@@TheInfoworks You are right, automatic translation was on, don't know why, after remove it, it was better.
@@pierreparraud Good to hear from you, cheers