Job Shop Work on the HAAS VM3!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- Making Ford Focus RS gas pedal spacers on the HAAS VM3! Using four stations in the Orange Vises with Fusion 360 CAM!
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Look at the constant smiling. If only every job brought this much joy.
I really enjoy watching you work, screw up, learn, fix, and succeed. It really demonstrates that you don't always get it right the first time, and that being open to changing your processes to make it work is the key to making good parts reliably. Thanks for sharing!
one tip, when you are facing and profiling a part that hasn't been milled parallel don't tap it down in the vise on the first side. any bow in the stock will be taken out by tapping it down then when you mill and face it and open the vise the bow springs back. if you don't tap it down you face off the bow and when you flip it over then you tap it down on the milled face and it stays parallel if that makes sense? love the channel and have learned alot about fusion from you, you are a natural teacher
I remember reading this and started that practice of just clamping, definitely has made a difference in the part sitting flat on parallels for the 2nd op. Thanks !
Another tip, is to use round rod instead of square bar if possible as it is more stable. So it doesn’t bow much at all.
Yup you’re right
🔥🔥🔥
Dang man. Wish I would have read this years ago. Good tip!
Its amazing how you are willing to share even your stupid mistakes. We all make them but only few would be honest enough to share they messed up that way. Big props
Owning and showing your mistakes makes you so much more believable and even more important... a adorable human being. Thank you so much for that... all power to you!
I cheered when you put the locating geometry on the fixed jaw. Your process is likely going to help me remember and retain the lessons you learned. You may have saved me many hours.
Awsome job, I was one of the people yelling "just change the offset". Just this Friday I helped our plant manager with our CNC stone machine by manually typing in G code to get the right offset.
Thank God! John is human! And putting chamfers on modeled chamfered parts takes some extra attention. I'm a OneCnc addict for 15 years now which works like a charm, but you still have to lift the real edge of the part to z=0 before chamfering. This is why I don't put any chamfers on in CAD if I'm drawing my own parts.. I'm a one man show and I like easy chamfers in the Haas so I know they get there in the end. Thank you John! Great channel with great content. Businesswise and hands-on. Respect and best regards, Job, Delft, the Netherlands.
Hi John, I'm a Designer Engineer from Brazil, and allways get impressed by the whim that you have when manufacturing your parts! Congratulations! Love your videos!
As someone who has been a manual Tool Maker for over 30 years, I'm looking forward to the CNC way of doing work. Thanks for the great videos!
never used or run a CNC machine in my life but still watched the entire video. can't resist a bit of awesome engineering and machining
Man, this is just a treat watching this man go.....wow. I'm really enjoying what you do fella and have to say your enthusiasm is infectious. Its a real tonic. Thanks a bunch for sharing this work.
More of this content.
You nailed my interest with this one.
this is what I do everyday, just not with CNC machines, with people and equipment.
Logistics and process management.
John, I liked your effort and work ethic, it’s smart and productive
Love how you're incorporating lean production methodologies. Great to see them in action, and your videos make for a really good training tool. Looking forward to watching more!
Great information and advice. I would like to see more videos like this one and include the mistakes and retrys so we can all learn how to improve. Thanks.
Dude, I'm a blacksmith and physician...who knows which order. LOL...but after I saw the referral from AvE.....I signed up sight unseen...and I love your approach to it all....THANKS...DocChuck
Two Months Before i saw one of your Videos, Where you made a cnc pen plotter type machine. I was deeply influenced with your work. That day i decided to built my own CNC milling+plotter+Engraver Machine. I have almost completed it( just facing some problems with milling part, I am not able to find a perfect motor for my Spindle). But I will soon Upload finish the work.
Greetings from India..
Show the fails! Watching you work through cam problems has helped me immensely. Although it has the rigidity of a 3D printer, I was able to hit the ground running with my Xcarve and Fusion 360 and I'm making great parts. Thanks!
John, one thing you can do when you control your parts. Since it's a new job, and the first time for your Haas, do like it's done in aerospace, on a new setup & new machine, the first 25 parts are checked 100% and the following are checked at every number of parts depending on the number total of parts to be machined. And the next time you do these parts, you do a first off (F/O) and you check the rest at every number dépending on the size of the batch.
I think I've bought this exact spacer. Just love your energy man. Inspiring really. Keep things up!!!
John, very cool to watch this whole process. Thanks for sharing !
Great video! Its videos like these thats are amazing. It shows the ins and outs, and the failing, or issues that one comes across. Real world video.
A good way to speed up the program is to only move up the z about 5 inches between different work offsets instead of a full z retract. Great video as always and keep up the hard work!
Hey John, i just finished my education to and CNC Milling guy here in germany, i love your Videos! Even if it is hard for me with your Inch System etc. sometimes :D Keep the good work up!
love your videos man you give me hope of one day to open a nice shop like yours and keeps me motivated to become a better Machinist
Enjoyed John!!
Great video. Liked it a lot. It's cool to see the process of finding problems and fixing them. That's very humble and I think that makes you a great teacher. In my shop it's hard to do that sometimes (and I often don't), but when I share my mistakes with others it really helps them learn and avoid the same mistake. IDK if it's just me but I got a little nauseous from watching this video in full screen and had to make it smaller. My unsolicited advice would be somehow reduce shakiness in your videos if it bothers people other than myself.
i watch all the videos but these are my favorite. great work.
The inside Haas camera worked well...cool stuff
John, until you get your visiport built try taking an air nozzle , mounting it out of shot, and pointing it at your GoPro lens. An air blast should help keep the lens clear.
Love the way you made this video, get to see all the intricacies.
Afternoon John,
I liked you're video and the vises Orange!
Would you consider doing a video on the setup of 4 pieces
What I'd love to see is how you adjust the vises to clamp different
Work pieces at the same time.
Cheers!
I always either use a part feature for location, or mill a locating hold in the softjaw to pick up on. Prevents the issue you had with chamfer.
I never trust using something I didn't mill for a locating position. I also use the bottom of the softjaw pocket as the Z location. Just in case.
Nice pieces and lessons learned along with setting up small production runs.
Let me share one practical thing about soft jaws. At 14:53 we can see probing the original surfaces of the solid jaw. It involves two potentially dangerous assumptions:
- a newly machined surface is perfectly aligned with the original ones;
- moving jaw is perfectly aligned with a back jaw.
At the same time, back jaw only locates Y- and Z-axis, but not X-axis of a part. This isn't a good practice at all. When possible, back (solid) jaw should locate X, Y, and Z together while moving jaw should be "floating" - allowing a part to be aligned with a solid one only. So, in this particular case, it is better to flip them. Another important thing is to probe newly machined surfaces and to have part zero planes located on them or on an additional feature (edge), machined on a back jaw with the same tool. This strategy eliminates an error related to these two assumptions and increases an accuracy by using a solid (non-moving) jaw to locate a part. Again, in this particular case, assuming you've already got jaws flipped (so, the curved one is on the back), I'd add top side facing (for Z) and left side cleanup (for X) operations to the soft jaw cutting program.
it does locate x y and z on the profile . you must be a engineer so go drive your train . let the machinist work.
Oh, yes, let's touch tools up with a piece of paper and use an edgefinder for everything else. It's enough for every job, isn't it?
Very good points, sciloj. In fact, he does flip the soft jaws around at 21:13, which should help locate X as well. Though I can't tell for sure if he measures the Z off the machined surface of the soft jaw.
sciloj I'm with you mate. locating features on the fixed jaw, and something you can probe off on the fixed jaw (i often put a small hole 2mm deep)
I mean, always doing it the way I've explained above costs virtually nothing, so it makes a perfect sense to turn it into a habit. I'm not suggesting anything expensive like, say, always using a 4-jaw chuck (and indicating everything) instead of 3-jaw on a lathe.
You should use the part registration feature on the fixed jaw, because the movable jaw does not repeat the exact same spot every time, meaning your chamfers on the second op will not be perfectly centered on your edges. After the first second-op is done, probe the clamped part to reset your part zero to a more precise point, instead of relying on the soft-jaw geometry. This is where a first article will help you in setting up subsequent operations so they are more precise.
Hey. Thanks. Snapped that one down in my notes.
Nice Lean reference! Totally agree.. small batch FTW!
As always thank you Judd! 😃
Beautiful mod for any Focus RS. Nice work.
Nice shop, and man, you are having WAY too much fun! You will go far in this biz :0)
Excellent video John! This addresses some things I've been wanting to do.
Outstanding! I have learned a ton from your videos - Thank you!
That's so cool to watch the whole process!
Just a thought, on keeping the windows clear on your enclosure,
would something like RainX and an air blower
make it easier to see through all that coolant hitting the glass? Just thought I'd toss that out there!
Thanks for showing how awesome this can be!
Yea that’s what I’ve always done. First and second op in one program Run a tool abs let it do all the work it has to do and then that tools done for the rest of the program. In production of repetitive parts I always had “pie jaws”. Micro centric air chucks. Sooo easy Soooooooo easy.
your lucky you have all this equipment and tooling.worked in engineering shop in mid to late 90s on emco vmc 3axis.normal vice, bed was very limited in x y and z.all programmed by hand.
Thank you for the tool numbering tip...Oh and, absolutely on the 2 and 2 flip part idea...I am doing that with the production nylon parts now and that gives me way more ability to track tolerance drift without scrapping too much material. Please do a class on basics of gcode...I need a reason to ask my company to send me back out to Zanesville.
Hi John, in fusion you can run a quick interference check in the inspect drop down. Hope that saves you some soft jaws!
Seems like fun when there is no boss jumping up and down behind you.
Love the videos, fun when you figure it out and thinking of the same thing.
we like your work in such a way ....regards
I can't even turn this off. I'm in the last couple years of my life and I always wanted to be a machinist so I bought an old lathe and old Logan lathe and I rebuilt it really nice everything's nice and tight and I taught myself how to use a manual lathe in the last couple years and I have a lot of fun. I got to cheap piece of crap Chinese manual Mill that I play with which helps but leaves me wanting. A local Aerospace company gave me call hardinge speed lathe so I told it up I got some really good deals on a turret not the size of the most tool holding Solutions. I still can't believe that they gave me that lathe. If i can even find a used tormach I will be the happiest person in the world. I have to learn this I have to. I'm really good with 3D programs I think and see 3D I was a graphic illustrator before I got sick.
I have to accomplish this it's my bucket list.
How did you do?
Use your thru the spindle coolant. Use a ER-16 or ER-32, coolant comes out the the slits. Works great.
Great video John! Can you do more of this jop shop videos?
Mani am glad I stumbled upon this channel
Well, you learn something every day. At 6:07, I was wondering what the heck you were doing with the calipers, then I went and checked mine - I never realised that end of them is ground for use as a depth/height gauge! Pretty neat. Also, great to see parts piling up, no better feeling ;-)
nick f lol
And you can add a tee bar to the caliper to give you a 3” wide base for measering accuracy. You can also push the zero button for fun :)
Another awesome video! It also awesome to see how much you have progressed and grown im sure someone on the way said dont do this or you cant do that. A big raspberry to them. I know you have a million better things to worry about but some shelves in the office ahh its bugging me. If i was there i would do it for ya! Hope that didn't sound mean.
Nice, but I'm a bit surprised you referenced your part on an unrelated set of elements and not on the milled features of the soft jaws, especially the Z0 which heavily impacts the "thickness" of your finished part. Well, I guess everyone has their own methods :)
Cool job!👍
if you did a larger run you should make a whole sheet out of a single piece of plate stock. band saw them apart and deck the back and cham on a tormach. a modest sized generic vacuum plate would hold a piece of sheet large enough to make 6-10 of those. the run time on that would be long enough you could actually get some other work done.
Going to go out on a limb and say these are Focus RS throttle pedal spacers to help with that heel toe action!
BDGRanger you are right, found this exact part on a RS forum
Awe man just checked the video description, low'n behold the first sentence revealed the same info as my comment...guess I should read a little closer next time.
I think it must be a part to prevent the engine from blowing up as they are prone to doing.
A high quality video, enjoyed it!
"Go Lean ... it probably will be slower" - and this is the video recommended to me after seeing "Reduce Cycle Time with a Multi-Part Fixture on the Haas UMC-750P" from Haas 😂
I'm curious to try myself to see what will be faster. I have a lot of machine idle time because I'm busy doing some CAM work, topping up personal coolant and caffeine levels and more. Having a few seconds more machining time with the extra tool changes is less than that ...
I'm even more curious as to how your Lang cleaning fan is holding out after 2 years. Out new VF2ss is arriving in two weeks time and I'm tempted to install one of those things.
Damn, 10 mins. later, and I see you figured that out!
When using the auto non-rotating tool touch off, on a nextgen controller, you do not need to add approximate gauge length. Here's what I do. Memory - Edit - Probing - Tool offsets - Visually confirm that the right too number is displayed - Cycle start. The machine should select tool type 4 "endmill" by default. You can use it for endmills, drill, reamers, ect.
I really like this style of video. It looks like that you ran thru each stage of each part seperate. Wouldn't it be much faster to run each op on each pair to cut the number of tool changes in half? I went back and re watched that part maybe that is what you did but the way the footage is edited it makes it hard to tell.
These un-edited videos are fire!
Fun fact I learned today. Non rotating tools don't need length or dia. Just tool number and tool type.
Maybe install some windshield wipers? :) You could probably machine a bracket to hold a stepper motor (driven by an Arduino), and mount the motor to the inside above the door frame (so that it moves with it); the trick will be finding a weatherproof enclosure for the motor, Arduino, and driver board(s)! Then a simple program could make the wipers (attached to the stepper motor) turn back-and-forth. :)
William Squires or use a windshield wiper motor
I normally trim the foot on side 2 to match the outer contour leaving .2mm around the contour then face the part to the correct thickness.
Understand the desire to pull off finished parts, John - but what is your tool change time? If you were using one tool 4X, then then next tool 4X, etc. - wouldn't it be faster than only using one tool 2X, for eash set of parts?
It is just an idea, with the camera inside, could you make a fast compressed airstream blowing along the camera lens.the idea is that steam blows the majority of cooling compound away before it his the camera. And cleans of any that do hit.
Great video John!
ATB, Robin
Good job man but since one soft job is just a straight edge maybe bring your custom jaw down to the same level as a parallel and use that on the solid jaw side and the contoured soft jaw on the moveable jaw. Saving money is making money.
Hi John! What happens to the cooling fluid used? Does it go to waste, or is it recycled somehow, via a pump and a floor-level sump (like the oil in you car engine?) I love the sight of a nicely machined piece of metal! Keep up the good work!
Whats about mounting your gopro to your spindle at one side? I did this in the past and liked the view. and also there is not that much coolant hitting it :)
Dialed in after two parts without breaking anything sounds pretty efficient to me.
The tool changer is good, pre load the tool for programs, and type in the specific tool manually, not forward increments
Awesome video
John, why not just use your air gun with the last tool still in the spindle at a clearance height to blow the part off? Run it 300 IPM around the part and drop the spindle to something lower so it stops faster before the retract. We have a fan too but for small parts it's overkill, and an air blast does a great job. (Or maybe that's MQL and not just air? Hard to tell.)
Also man, Extend Before Retract on that face mill, the deflection difference can be seen on the left side of the part @21:20 in the face finish, left side.
What do you mean by Extend Before Retract?
This means to retract z after the tool completely clears the part, rather than retracting when the center of the tool is at the edge of the part (ie: setting x to go an extra -1.5" + ~ .020" further with a 3" face mill, before retract).
Got it and agreed. Although it would be nice to have the option of going short when roughing with the face cutter and extending on the final pass. Can't stand cutting air on roughing passes. I could create a second operation or code it manually but I generally don't do enough production work to make it worth while.
On the Linking tab for the Face operation there is a checkbox with the label Extend Before Retract which extends the toolpath by the radius of the tool past the stock boundaries. IMO this should always be used since machines are rarely perfectly square, and deflection issues mean that large facing tools - even flycutters - have some deflection cut on the "back" of the tool. I've always known it as backcutting.
i came up with an interesring idea to have a spinning glass lens (shield) for cameras for situations like this. unfirtunately someone already patented the idea in 94:( i looked but it seems like they havent done anything with it. i think i would be pretty easy to do
Do R/C! Patents issued in 1994 have already expired, so go for it.
Why do you bolt the soft-jaws in when cutting them? You could simply clamp them into the vise, as long as they are reasonably registered to each other.
eformance I've always bolted them in myself too. Habit I guess. If it has holes to bolt with, I'm bolting it 😆
Doesn't the spindle reach far enough so that the parts cleaner can clean the windows? 😀
Good to see you considering the part stiffness and machining sequence.
I was a bit surprised to see you go back to Fusion for the additional work offsets. Maybe you should try hacking the gcode by hand as it might be quicker depending on the code generated for the first part.
Muito legal. Obrigado. Brasil
How did you get to do that? In fusion, you had the shortcuts to switch to wireframe/shaded right in the navigation bar!! How did you add it?? :D Awesome videos by the way!! We actually have classes on CNC machines and I thought it was boring until I found your channel! thanks so much
So what do you do with old soft jaws after the job is over? If it's a one-off job, do you just chuck them? If you're hoping to run the same job again, how do you catalog and store them?
i was wondering why would you not use a torque wrench when you tighten the vice jaw ? would it not prolong the life of the tool.
Great work!!
Thus is too cool, great video
Would it be better to machine the soft jaws on the same machine and same vice that you will be using to the cut the parts?
Thank you for this lesson
Could you make something on your bass machine and your tormach and compare the end product?
Nice video John. It seems to me that it would have been more consistent if each vise was set up with op1 on the front and op2 on the back. The way you set it up looks like you have to rotate the parts differently when moving to op2. Did you have to zero your offsets on different corners of the soft jaws? Also why did you cut the soft jaws on the 1100 originally? Wouldn't it add some minor error to the parts when you moved the soft jaws to the Haas?
Is he making these parts for a Focus RS?
Great videos all around, but what's with all the inches?
Where can I order that fan that blows the coolant away John? that was cool!
Frank IRAQVETUSMC1-7
From Lang Technik. Just FYI. They aren't cheap.
www.lang-technik.de/en/produkte/clean-tec.html
I can see the DiResta influence in this video :)
Even though it comes down to 5 mins a part, there's plenty of time and skill involved programming and setting up the machine, plus overhead and paying for equipment. Not just the price to run a part! The real profit comes in on reorders because you just throw on fixtures and run it
Does anyone stick magnets to the parallels to keep them in place and keep them from falling down when you release the part from the vice when working with alumnium?
You should make a box with a visa-port and put the camera in that so you don't have to cut or replace the window
It's a gas pedal spacer for heel toe shifting.