This is ABSOLUTELY the BEST VIDEO you've ever done. I am SUPER SUPER IMPRESSED. There's a drama story here. There's an incredible narrative. And, the visuals are ALL ABOUT WHAT'S HAPPENING versus a talking head (even though you're narrating the video). WELL DONE, NATHAN!!!!! (On getting a job, you should CONSULT! That way you can define your compensation to whatever YOU want. I would suggest $500 per hour to consult with companies seeking help with their already released products. Well Done, Sir!
@@NathanBuildsRobots Here's an update on my Hurakan. You know that I fried the entire control board, right? At this point I have a LOT of parts coming from BIQU. But if that wasn't enough, I have ANOTHER HURAKAN on order. Why? Because I didn't take enough pictures of the wiring on my first Hurakan before I ROASTED the wiring harness. BIQU finally agreed to send me a FREE WIRING HARNESS. I think someone from China is rowing over to the US to deliver it to me, though. I'm still debating about keeping the second Hurakan. Or sending it back. I'll be reconnecting with your Patreon page laster today. QUESTION, could I use your MODDER BOARD to replace the POW board on the Hurakan?
No, The connectors are similar but it won't wor, uless you installed a sprite upgrade kit on the hurakan (the one that comes with a new carriage and 24-pin ribbon cable).
@@NathanBuildsRobots I tried installing a Revo in my Hurakan. That’s how I fried the ribbon cable and the board. But I’m willing to try anything to have the printer deliver on the Klipper promise that came with it. Send me a link to that print head so I can buy it from your connection to Amazon.
@@corlissmedia2.0 Here is an affiliate link: amzn.to/3yhPafa If you check my "Ender 2 S1" video I go over the installation. It's worth watching because creality did some rather irresponsible wiring on the 24-pin cable. Just make sure not to plug it in wrong and you'll be fine. In the video I mention "shorted connectors" that you want to avoid plugging in to anything.
My solution for resolving all of the issues with a "first generation" Ender 5 S1 was to return it for a new unit. The second generation (no Z-axis limit switch + injection molded fan duct) works flawlessly. No soldering required. They pushed out some really bad units in the first couple of containers that left the factory. Bad design.
That is very interesting. No doubt they were in a rush to get ahead of the competition (Bambu Lab) and may have cut some corners as a result. Funny enough, the P1P I bought may be the victim of the save "get it out as fast as possible" mentality. I'm curious what these new changes are. When I reached out to Creality about the issues I fixed here, they said the same thing, that they came out with a 2nd edition that fixed some of the issues from the first batch. Would be really interested to learn more about what is different on these 2nd edition printers. In any case, mine is working great now, and I've documented all the steps I've taken to get it to this point.
Wait?! That's actually a thing? Interesting that they did such changes after release. I guess the rushed production run is why the grub screw on my heater was so tight it crushed the heater tube and why my X-axis idler was bent WAY too far causing the belt to rub on the gantry. I will add to it that Creality has been very helpful with replacement parts when contacted so maybe they are aware of the issues in quality
@@SweHam Idk, most of the people I have talked to have said creality is very forthcoming about sending out replacement parts (I know of several people that fried their motherboards due to inadvertent shorts on the fan pins while installing the Modder Board, and they got replacements sent to them right away. Don't tell Creality about it tho because I'm pretty sure I've cost them a couple hundred....).
@@NathanBuildsRobots I will say that I contacted creality and was on the first 500 orders of the ender 5 s1 and creality would not send replacement parts. I could not use the mesh leveling otherwise I would get an extreme issue to the one that you showed here. I spent 15 hours troubleshooting and they refused to believe it was anything except a firmware issue that would "eventually" be fixed. Like literally my first mesh bed level scraped my nozzle so deep it left a scare in the build plate. At the end of the day since they refused to send new parts for me to try, I requested a return which they accepted. But I secretly still wish it had worked because I like the mod-ability of creality machines. Anyways just wanted to say that this person was not alone in the initial batch issue.
@@RandomDudeWorkshop Yeah, I actually had a meeting with the Creality engineers to help them figure out what was going on in early December. But I ended up sleeping in and missed the meeting, because it was late at night due to the time-zone difference. I think they were really concerned about all the issues because that was the first time a company had reached out like that. Maybe if they were PAYING ME *errhrrm* I would have showed up and saved their bacon 3 months ago. Too many of these 3D companies expect free labor (from influencers, etc.) in exchange for printers. Not how it works. If you want top quality engineering you gotta pay for it.
You're spot on about the bambu community and toxicity, i bought an x1c as a stop gap measure between machines and holy crap the facebook groups are so bad, nobody can raise a concern or ask for help without being scalded for hurting the brand. Prusa does get a bad rap for their community being snobby but at least they're friendly by comparison.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I'm waiting for Bambu to send me a refund on my X1 Carbon. I have to pay shipping to get a refund, I guess. That's going to hurt big time.
I do design and re-engineering. The z probe was "behind" the tip for a reason. The bed is lowered from the 2 rear screws only. This offsets the bed vs a 4 screw Z unit that won't tilt when moved up or down.
the problem with changing the x-offset though is that you're leaving a pretty significant part of the bed unmeshed. Given that you have more room to work with on the left side, consider basically flipping your design so the crtouch is mounted on the right side instead of the left. This would allow you to have a more accurate probe of the entire bed as opposed to not being able to calibrate nearly 1/4 of the bed on the right side.
I’ll check on this. I chose the left side because the right side has The stock design doesn’t mesh the front of the bed, so no either way, a portion is being left out. When it comes to fabricating anything there is a concept of “close enough”. Nothing is perfect, but my solution is close enough to get a perfect first layer, so as long as it works, no further optimization needs to be done on my part. Close enough (aka tolerances) landed men on the moon. And the deviation allowed depends on the application. However, the design could be mirrored and slightly modified if you wanted to try this out. If on the right side, you miss out on some of the mess on the right side of the bed and have to worry about the hotend wires interfering with the cr-touch. Neither is that big of a problem
@@NathanBuildsRobots I see your point. I hadn’t considered those things. Sadly, I won’t be any help testing as I’ve completely gutted and rebuilt my ender 5 s1 into a zero-g mercury one and hydra setup. The only thing creality at this stage is the frame lol. Hats off to ya for coming up with these low cost, easy to implement improvements because the road I went down certainly wasn’t either of those things haha. Have you run into any issues with z position accuracy? What led me down the path of gutting the entire bed system was the fact my z-position was consistently inconsistent. One print it would be too high, the next it would be too low. This was with our without using abl.
Cool! Hope it works. Only issue you might have is the CR-touch cable creality supplies is super short and doesnt reach to the new location. I can send you a longer one if that ends up being an issue for you. You can actually use the old CR-touch mount location with the new fan duct if you feel like it. But for mine I definitely needed to reposition the CR-touch due to the bed leveling issues I was having. As far as I understand, the bed leveling issue doesnt affect everyone, the actual misalignment is caused by tolerance stack up from a number of parts coming together.
By releasing the tension on the y connector rod, it's possible your x and y are no longer perpendicular, so your prints become slightly skewed and v wheels may not be perfectly aligned. That was the case with my printer. I needed the tension. The root cause is the gantry not being perfectly square but haven't been able to fix that by realigning parts.
I stepped down the creality rabbit hole, and 3 for 3 orders. Faulty and weeks of bits being sent out to fix 3 brand new items myself. lol. One of the printers clearly could never be assembled. They really need to get their QC together. Having to send out parts for three orders in a row! If that is a snapshot of the wider picture they're done lol.
Your right, creality makes sub par designs with bad quality control. But at least they can be fixed outside of the factory. Bambu wants me to send my machine back to them to repair. I said no because I have never sent a machine back after starting a review. Should I just give every company infinite tries to be able to get a “good one”? And what about my video production schedule? Should I just put off making videos to accommodate the fact that they sent out a faulty, nearly unserviceable printer?
Apparently there is a 2nd revision of printers that have the CR-touch placed a little differently. Also some extra attention to detail during assembly and flatter heated beds could play a role
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah, can confirm. I got both version at home. Ordered them only 2 weeks apart. I probably got one the last V1 versions. The 1.06 firmware doesn't work for V1 because of the changed CR Touch position. Sensor is outside the bed and head bores into the bed when leveling :( Took me some time to figure out that only 1.05 firmware works for V1. The V2 comes shipped with 1.06 installed.
This is copy-pasted from a community post on the topic. I could explain it with some charts and analysis a lot more clearly, but I don't get paid enough for this shit :P The issue is not with the bed. The bed could be tipped 5 degrees at an angle and the ABL should measure accurately and compensate. Do describe it in mathematical terms, ideally you want an identity matrix to convert inputs to outputs. Meaning, 100mm of movement on X translates to 100 mm movement on X What we have is some weird interplay between axes So when commanding 100mm on X, you end up with something like 101mm on X, 0.1mm on Y, and -0.3mm on Z If you are probing with the nozzle itself, you end up being able to compensate for all of this perfectly. However, if you probe with an offset, the Z coordinate ends up being off by the amount of z error introduced by the offset travel. With the current stock design with a 45mm Y offset, it causes big issues. With my new design, which has 0 Y offset, and ~32mm X offset, everything works great. Y offset introduces much more error than X offset in most printer designs, just due to how they are built. Moving a lightweight carriage along a single extrusion (as is the case on the X-axis) is much less complicated than moving 2 carriages along 2 extrusions, that might not be perfectly aligned with eachother, with 2 belts, and a coupler that might not be working perfectly... There's a lot to unpack. Best bet is to just watch my next episode which will come out today or tomorrow.
If you mean, why did it run off the end and have an error during the first try at making the mesh, it just has to do with the way Klipper does its bed leveling. It wanted to mesh the whole surface, but since the probe is not coincident with the nozzle, the nozzle ends up being able to reach all points on the bed, but the ABL can't. It is unable to mesh the rightmost portion of the bed due to the offset (x carriage can only move to the right so far)
I found the the only reliable way to tram the bed on ender 5 S1 is removing the magnetic layer for the bed, putting glass bed over the bare metal and printing one 0.2mm 210x210 layer after z offset, bed level and bed mesh calibration and manually fine tuning the corner screws to get perfect lines across the whole bed - takes some time, but the results are worth it. Tho my benchy does not look as close as good to yours when printing at 250mm/s at 5000mm/s^2 :/
I'm planning on doing a teardown. Wouldn't feel right about selling it afterwards, because it may require some "destructive disassembly" methods. I have done a teardown of everything except for the COREXY stage. I've seen a couple videos of people taking that apart, but mine appears to be glued together. Regardless, even if it was pretty much scrap afterwards, I'd try to redesign/reassemble enough parts to get it back up and running (possibly on Klipper)
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would love love love to see that teardown, as well as any mods or DIY replacement parts. I love my P1Ps but we all know they aren't perfect and I don't want to have to replace them if I can fix them one day when something happens.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I'd def sub to your Patreon if you make one, and help you test it. Someone maden spacers for the CRTouch and fan cowling to work with the K1 block, but with the increased flow comes increased cooling needs and I doubt just adding spacers to my existing setup is goign to work out
On your short circuit, it looks like you may have just shorted 24v to gnd, which probably put the power supply into fault mode which was cleared upon power cycling?
The fan duct is available on my patreon (in video description). It’s still in a beta release awaiting some feedback on tolerances before I know it’s 100% good
Man, your reviews are really funny, but I like it😁 I bought myself an ender 5 s1 2 weeks ago, the printer prints amazingly at high speeds and is super quiet, my friend has a raven 2.4 and it's damn loud...the print quality is no better. I have a printer of the 2nd version, without a Z limit switch and with molded plastic airflow. I also want to say that my bad is perfectly even, the spread is only + -0.02
Nice. I want to learn more about this 2nd version. Doesn't seem to be much info online. If you could share some pictures on the Discord it would be much appreciated!
@Nathan Builds Robots I appreciate the reply. What is the purpose of the nuts. I guess the volcano threads are too long ? Mind sharing the volcano nozzle link with me and / or the nuts ? Keep up the awesome work. Thanks
I'm having trouble saving the settings when i change them. It just causes trouble. Can you give me a run down on how to do that part. I can change the settings and i can try and save and restart. But then it doesn't want to do anything afterwards
It works for both, but the connector is slightly different for the thermistor on the Ender 5 S1, so requires some work to get it running, but technically it is compatible with both.
Final comment: i feel like you got some really good instruction prior to making this video about story-telling. Maybe you've got someone advising you. If that's correct, they've done a great job of helping you get to where you belong.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I think of you as a worthy investment. That's why I reconnected with your Patreon page. Your previous videos (to this one), have all been interesting and entertaining. The rough edges are actually part of your schtict, I think. Personally, I hope you don't start saying "Let's get started" at the beginning of your videos. That seems to be what Google wants, however. But I encourage you to come up with your own slogan. Question: The Ender 5 Plus. Could one install the Sprite Pro on that non-core xy printer?
@@NathanBuildsRobots I’ve got it in the cart. Just debating about putting it in the Ender 5-Plus, or not. I need a big machine to print a future Rook on.
I had similar issues on my p1p, to solve them I slightly moved the table so it doesnt collide with the wall, I think what is happening is that at the speeds it is moving when it does the resonance calibration are not enough to collide with the wall so when printing the resonance calibration doesnt work.
creality has sold far too many printers whiel doing very little to think through their designs. cant wait for more episodes of the podcast. you should do an experimental video with a high flow scara arm printer
They have been benchmarking against PRUSA since their foundation. Maybe now that Bambu has shown them that a high performance machine CAN be made on a budget, they’ll get off their rear and start improving their designs!
@@NathanBuildsRobots i wouldn't be so optimistic lol if they will, it sure as heck wont be this year as they still got the ender 5 s1 pro and s1 plus to finish up and release, and these 2 alone already take longer than the ender 3 s1 series, they likely will start with something competing with the p1p at least by q3 or q4 of this year which is my most optimistic guess but nothing released till past q1 2024. unless they paused the s1 pro and plus after seeing bambu lab their machine and soiled their pants that is after delivering this printer in this state. to their credit they did respond somewhat well with the higher demand for klipper and the lack of pi's, but like, that too took about 3-4 months response time for them and released it along side the ender 5 s1. personally i just really want the s1 plus to release already so ppl can review it and give me an idea if it's worth the wait since my prints require a bigger bed than the s1 and the ender 3 s1 plus isn't an option for me since i specifically want a coreXY this time around.
Hello, I own a 5 S1 printer with a sound pad, but I'm encountering an issue with the top layer. Similar to what was shown in a video, the printer is extruding excessive filament near the edges, except in the video it was with the first layer. Do any of you have any suggestions on how to resolve this problem?
Hello! Thank you for sharing your experience with problem solving and equipment improvement, and with a subtle sense of humor! After all this trouble, would you still recommend the Ender 5s1 as the best printer under $500? I also want to order him, but too many problems worry me. Maybe just take the Ender 3s1 pro and not think about higher speed?
It’s a good printer. Would only really consider this over the render 3 if you plan on using the sonic pad with it and doing some upgrades to it over time
Hello, that is a great question. I’ll bring it up during the next episode of my podcast at Perfectfirstlayer.com The short answer is: shaking is bad, but sometimes it is ok. It’s all relative - if the whole printer was floating in space, and it was shaking twitching around due to the tool head movement, that wouldn’t be a problem. The issue is when there is relative movement between parts. That is, If you have a frame mounted camera looking at the print area, if things are shaking from that perspective you have a problem. If everything is shaking together that is fine. If parts are shaking relative to each other, not fine.
I'm too broke to support you on patreo but great work and video, thanks, its great to be able to see something a little more advanced than setup and print. the points you make helped me try and diagnose all the weird sounds on my ender 5 s1. although mostly it was realizing that whovere assembled it went too happy on the torque and everything was under stress, mostly loosening and retightening everything carefully helped both with the noise, and also printe quality.... just hope nothing comes back to bite me later. also, I love the ender 5 s1, mostly because I like to tinker, modify and mostly I like to feel that something i own is truly mine, which is kind of hard whith something like a bambu where everyhing is proprietary so no thinking outside what they offer
I just bought an ender-5 s1 + sonic pad, and I am now just seeing this video. It's makes me happy that you like this printer, which confirms I made a good choice. I was actually looking for silence upgrades and saw you made a video on it, so this is perfect! I couldn't find a silent squirrel blower though, so perhaps I will be going the double noctua setup on my part cooling fans like yours. I also wanted to develop an interface board, but you beat me to it. Nice work Nate!
Great video since I'm having first layer issues too. Do you have a file for just the CR Touch relocation mount, or is it only available with the duct fans?
always fire..i am having a similar issue I think with my e3S1..its reading .5 hikgh on 1 side..think the cr touch might be off or broke..it doesn't trigger sometimes
It should definitely trigger 100% of the time, if its being pressed. Have you tried talking to the mfg? Also you can get replacement CR-touches for about $15 on aliexpress
Hi, I'm about to upgrade to Sonic Pad + CHT nozzle. How is this modded printer holding up about a year after? Would you reccommend getting a newer Creality model over this? Any tips at this stage before moving onto upgrading fans as well?
Great video man, I just got my s1 in today. I don’t have the sonic pad yet, and I did notice a couple minor bed problems that I fixed with the level screws. Going to implement the fan shroud and the fan upgrade and the cr touch placement as soon as I can. Thanks for the information!
Mine works perfectly with no modifications. I've just printed a complete RC model aircraft that flies fantastically. The printer is in my hobby room and I have no problem with noise. It's never failed a print. Maybe you are too picky or have just been unlucky with it. No need to upgrade anything in my opinion it just works out of the box.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I don't know man... Just received one Ender-5 S1 to review and I'm getting this weird first layer issue :( The right side of the bed is always too close to the nozzle, but all 4 corners are perfectly leveled!
If you had skewness on x and y you couldn't have any calibrate printing also if you do good manual bed leveling and after that run auto bed leveling you won't be face on kind of issue
i have the ender 5s1 but its been down for weeks after the print head kept on clogging i didn't secure the heat since taking the tip out broke the heat sink but they don't have parts yet ps im in canada
It was just a random print that I had laying around, and I stopped it manually before it finished the rest of the print. If you're in prusaslicer you can place a bunch of cylinders into the print area manually and do pretty much the same print
@@NathanBuildsRobots No, no... I mean YOU are having to manually make adjustements to the bed corners by raising/lowering, how hard would it be to do your 10-point inspection of the bed, then have those corners automatically adjust exactly thebright amount to make sure that bed is 100% level? 🙂
@@907-q7u There are printers that do that, but you need a minimum of 3 stepper motors to make that happen. Check out some videos on the voron trident bed leveling for an example. th-cam.com/video/cz3V2HYF1Pc/w-d-xo.html
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks for letting me know. Right now I use a dedicated laptop for the printer so I can "remote" print. That is through the Creality slicer, everything is stock. From my understanding I need to switch the printer firmware to Klipper, which also means I need to hook up a Raspberry Pi, install stuff on there, I'll lose the display on the printer (not a big deal), and I have to install some kind of web-interface on the Raspberry Pi to interact with the printer from there and the laptop will be of no use anymore, does that sound about right?
K1 is faster and has klipper built in, so better in a lot of ways, but some have extruder issues and overall print quality is higher on the E5S1. Neither are perfect yet
The FB group I follow has had Ender 5 S1 owners trying to find spare parts for it without success, a ribbon cable and a silicon sock upto press, spares are non existant for this machine.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The author of the post about the faulty ribbon cable is Nathan Quick posting on 3D Printing UK, and the guy trying to find replacement silicon socks I cant find, it might have been on Reddit, I will try and search, unfortunetly I installed an app to stop Microsoft mining my data and deleted my history by mistake, I have a save point that I can go back to though.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Creality have really played an ace this time, who in their right mind would release a printer with non standard parts and then not provide any spares for it, I believe he is sending the machine back, and so would I, not that I would have bought this machine in the first place, a P1P is only a little more expensive than the E5S1 and it has professionals running the company!
I love my modder board that I put on my V2 Neo with a sprite. I have an E5S1 coming this week hopefully, so I'll probably buy another one. I thought your hair was a hat.
We have a X1 carbon where I work. There are issues, it is not perfect. I also question the durability. It is impressive but disappointing at the same time.
DO NOT losen the screws on the x rod connector and jiggle it! it puts the y gantry on an angle and ur Prints are not square anymore (the angles are not 90 degrees). i did that what you said in the video and only 5 Month later i foung out that über 20 gears that i have printed where not round and more oval. Not much but enough to not make a clock work. you need the y achses exactly in a 90 degree angle to the x achses or you get deformed prints. calibration cubes wont detect it unless you measure diagonal. please fix this in the video or many get bad print results!
i guess this would be a good printer if i spent all this time and did all these mods. since i don't have time my ender 5 s1 will just have to continue to suck. btw. i'm having the exact same issue where the nozzle is too far on the left side and too close on the right side. no matter what i do, this keeps happening and the result is that i can't use the whole area of the printer.
Incorrect. It is faster than the P1P in silent mode. The benchy shown in this video finished in under 40 minutes If you look at the screenshot of babmbu slicer at 10:18 You will notice that the predicted time is around 48 minutes using the standard profile at normal speed.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I honestly couldn't tell u have x1 carbon its 24 min with all calibration or 17 min without in standard figured p1p was close to that
@@NathanBuildsRobots have ender 3 s1 can get down to 31 min on klipper but running into cooling issues that ender 5 fans set up u have would he nice on 3s1
Interesting. Maybe Bambu Lab should send me an X1C to review so I can try that out. The Benchy shown on the video is the Creality sliced Boat running at 200% speed, 5000mm^2/s accelerations, and 0.2mm layer height. In Bambuslicer, if I I set it to the fastest print profile (super draft 0.28mm layers, 1. wall) it finishes in 37 with preparation time or 31 without. I wonder if Bambulab can cut down on the preparation time with a firmware update. The bed leveling and initial setup is a bit slow.
I have some cooling duct designs for the Ender 3 S1, which I'd gladly reccommend (I've made videos on them). But this other design might be better than mine. I'm very curious about it and will try it out when I have the time: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5511666
PS I want to buy your modder board for my Ender 3 S1 (I managed to short out the part cooling fan circuit on the OG board grrr) but shipping to the UK is CRAZY! Comes to 51GBP, and starts to cut into the 220GBP I bought my 3 S1 for, and 108GBP I paid for my Sonic Pad. Please bring your shipping prices down mate!
I will petition the post office to lower their prices XD I have heard of other shipping options that gather a bunch of shipments together, then ship it and split it into smaller packages. I'll look into that as it could provide a cheaper option.
But in your Bambu lab review you said that it’s print quality is good. I almost bought one based on your review, …. not really, but anyway misleading 😅
I had only heard overwhelmingly positive things about the Bambu Lab printer. There were some minor print quality issues visible though, but I didn’t bother digging too far into it because I assumed it was probably fine. I have a 2nd P1P to test, will see if it’s presenting the same issues or if the first one was just a lemon
bambu showed us the way for z probing. piezo sensors under the bed! crtouch and similar probes are needlessly rube goldberg and still have offset errors. i suspect the reason why so many people have such great success with the bambu printers compared to others is because of this. with the bambu there's no adjusting the touch sensor or z offsets, it uses the actual nozzle to probe.
Not really a Rube Goldberg machine. It’s 2 functions, deploy and detect. It has 1 moving part. Is a ball point pe a Rube Goldberg machine? I do like the bambu solution though. Gets rid of weight on the tool head. There are other printers in the market that use load cell based leveling, but putting it in the bed really is a good idea
@@NathanBuildsRobots compared to piezo sensors, mechanical touch sensors are dinosaurs. they are an order of magnitude more complex than piezos. put them under the bed like bambu, or in the extruder as some others do. bambu showed how lazy and complacent the industry has become. prusa mk3s+ kit for 799 or p1p for 699? lol.
Yes but you want a little springiness in the drive train as possible. Zeroing out the preload between the belts is the best option, along with tensioning the belts
I don't get the silent mod craze on 3d printers but I guess people can customize their machines as they wish. And Prusa vs Bambu fanboys? I need more data to make a call but both are insufferable and condescending to be sure.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The influencers marketing bambulab as "no work; fastest printer" really should be liable for the numerous people buying them and not having an experience even remotely close to that. I've got yt premium but I go to a private window with adblock on when I'm watching any slice/bambu shills' videos. It's sad to see people that are otherwise good creators handing in their trustworthiness and reputability in exchange for the bag.
Odd companies pay for the type of testing and feedback you do. You would think they would send more product for Nathan Torture Testing. Think of the marketing "survived NathanBuildRobots" stamp of approval could deliver.
@@ballbous Yeah, slice pays good affiliate rates. So you won't hear much bad about them. Bambu is a new company and everyone wants to get in on the ground level as one of Bambu's nomba won inflshilluencers.
I already applied boron nitride paste to the nozzle last episode, but you’re right. I should have put a fresh layer down. Also it was negligent to not spread some some under the spring steel sheet with a butter knife.
Apple fanboy here, my Mac is better for 90% of what I need to do on a computer. But I still use Windows and Linux for engineery stuff. And if you disagree YOU ARE WRONG!!! REEEEEEE
is the zero y offset crtouch probe mount a thing for the ender 3 s1? i have problems getting my bed level perfect almost like yours but not quite as bad, i cant get it perfect like my ender 3 v2 with a bltouch. i have silicone bed spacers on both. btw i agree with you bambu guys are hilarious i laugh at them while they have to wait for over a month for a single part hahah
@@NathanBuildsRobots good to know thanks! i plan on putting a different fan duct on my s1 since part cooling sucks on it stock and probably picking up one of your modder boards. you got great content man keep it up!!
It is much better for a product that is released in a finished state. Having to slap improvements on in the aftermarket to meet its design intent is fun for me, but makes the company seem unprofessional.
@@NathanBuildsRobots also, your material on TH-cam is copyright. Creatlity can't use your work without compensating you. The tie-in to the Modder Board (Nathan's Miracle Modder Board, I call it), brings income to Nathan, so that's nice. Maybe Creatility will order 1000's of them????? That would be nice too!
For some reason, large companies have a hard time switching out old designs. Also if the new part is even a penny more expensive than the old one it's a hard sell to management.
Indeed. I told Bambu if they want to send a machine for me to test, they are welcome to, and I will use it in all future comparisons. Just need to make sure they grab it from the "influencer" bin this time.
I though I was crazy when I have tried to tighten screws on the print head during a print. Soldering on a circuit board while printing is next level.
Lol
Bruuuuuh im literally not able to solder cables together, imagine on a moving shit
This is ABSOLUTELY the BEST VIDEO you've ever done. I am SUPER SUPER IMPRESSED. There's a drama story here. There's an incredible narrative. And, the visuals are ALL ABOUT WHAT'S HAPPENING versus a talking head (even though you're narrating the video). WELL DONE, NATHAN!!!!! (On getting a job, you should CONSULT! That way you can define your compensation to whatever YOU want. I would suggest $500 per hour to consult with companies seeking help with their already released products. Well Done, Sir!
Wow, thank you! Now I just need to get back to that Biqu Hurakan issue...
@@NathanBuildsRobots Here's an update on my Hurakan. You know that I fried the entire control board, right? At this point I have a LOT of parts coming from BIQU. But if that wasn't enough, I have ANOTHER HURAKAN on order. Why? Because I didn't take enough pictures of the wiring on my first Hurakan before I ROASTED the wiring harness. BIQU finally agreed to send me a FREE WIRING HARNESS. I think someone from China is rowing over to the US to deliver it to me, though. I'm still debating about keeping the second Hurakan. Or sending it back. I'll be reconnecting with your Patreon page laster today. QUESTION, could I use your MODDER BOARD to replace the POW board on the Hurakan?
No, The connectors are similar but it won't wor, uless you installed a sprite upgrade kit on the hurakan (the one that comes with a new carriage and 24-pin ribbon cable).
@@NathanBuildsRobots I tried installing a Revo in my Hurakan. That’s how I fried the ribbon cable and the board. But I’m willing to try anything to have the printer deliver on the Klipper promise that came with it. Send me a link to that print head so I can buy it from your connection to Amazon.
@@corlissmedia2.0 Here is an affiliate link: amzn.to/3yhPafa
If you check my "Ender 2 S1" video I go over the installation. It's worth watching because creality did some rather irresponsible wiring on the 24-pin cable. Just make sure not to plug it in wrong and you'll be fine. In the video I mention "shorted connectors" that you want to avoid plugging in to anything.
An absolute must watch for new S1 owners, thanks a bunch!
My solution for resolving all of the issues with a "first generation" Ender 5 S1 was to return it for a new unit. The second generation (no Z-axis limit switch + injection molded fan duct) works flawlessly. No soldering required. They pushed out some really bad units in the first couple of containers that left the factory. Bad design.
That is very interesting. No doubt they were in a rush to get ahead of the competition (Bambu Lab) and may have cut some corners as a result. Funny enough, the P1P I bought may be the victim of the save "get it out as fast as possible" mentality.
I'm curious what these new changes are. When I reached out to Creality about the issues I fixed here, they said the same thing, that they came out with a 2nd edition that fixed some of the issues from the first batch. Would be really interested to learn more about what is different on these 2nd edition printers.
In any case, mine is working great now, and I've documented all the steps I've taken to get it to this point.
Wait?! That's actually a thing? Interesting that they did such changes after release. I guess the rushed production run is why the grub screw on my heater was so tight it crushed the heater tube and why my X-axis idler was bent WAY too far causing the belt to rub on the gantry. I will add to it that Creality has been very helpful with replacement parts when contacted so maybe they are aware of the issues in quality
@@SweHam Idk, most of the people I have talked to have said creality is very forthcoming about sending out replacement parts (I know of several people that fried their motherboards due to inadvertent shorts on the fan pins while installing the Modder Board, and they got replacements sent to them right away. Don't tell Creality about it tho because I'm pretty sure I've cost them a couple hundred....).
@@NathanBuildsRobots I will say that I contacted creality and was on the first 500 orders of the ender 5 s1 and creality would not send replacement parts. I could not use the mesh leveling otherwise I would get an extreme issue to the one that you showed here. I spent 15 hours troubleshooting and they refused to believe it was anything except a firmware issue that would "eventually" be fixed. Like literally my first mesh bed level scraped my nozzle so deep it left a scare in the build plate. At the end of the day since they refused to send new parts for me to try, I requested a return which they accepted. But I secretly still wish it had worked because I like the mod-ability of creality machines. Anyways just wanted to say that this person was not alone in the initial batch issue.
@@RandomDudeWorkshop Yeah, I actually had a meeting with the Creality engineers to help them figure out what was going on in early December.
But I ended up sleeping in and missed the meeting, because it was late at night due to the time-zone difference. I think they were really concerned about all the issues because that was the first time a company had reached out like that.
Maybe if they were PAYING ME *errhrrm* I would have showed up and saved their bacon 3 months ago.
Too many of these 3D companies expect free labor (from influencers, etc.) in exchange for printers. Not how it works. If you want top quality engineering you gotta pay for it.
You're spot on about the bambu community and toxicity, i bought an x1c as a stop gap measure between machines and holy crap the facebook groups are so bad, nobody can raise a concern or ask for help without being scalded for hurting the brand. Prusa does get a bad rap for their community being snobby but at least they're friendly by comparison.
Pretty sure the BL groups actually used will you be a total fanboy as a prerequisite, to be an early member, mod, or admin.
Great spike about the comparision of the S1 and the P1P!!!!!
Waiting on them to send me a new one.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I'm waiting for Bambu to send me a refund on my X1 Carbon. I have to pay shipping to get a refund, I guess. That's going to hurt big time.
I do design and re-engineering. The z probe was "behind" the tip for a reason. The bed is lowered from the 2 rear screws only. This offsets the bed vs a 4 screw Z unit that won't tilt when moved up or down.
the problem with changing the x-offset though is that you're leaving a pretty significant part of the bed unmeshed. Given that you have more room to work with on the left side, consider basically flipping your design so the crtouch is mounted on the right side instead of the left. This would allow you to have a more accurate probe of the entire bed as opposed to not being able to calibrate nearly 1/4 of the bed on the right side.
I’ll check on this. I chose the left side because the right side has
The stock design doesn’t mesh the front of the bed, so no either way, a portion is being left out.
When it comes to fabricating anything there is a concept of “close enough”. Nothing is perfect, but my solution is close enough to get a perfect first layer, so as long as it works, no further optimization needs to be done on my part.
Close enough (aka tolerances) landed men on the moon. And the deviation allowed depends on the application.
However, the design could be mirrored and slightly modified if you wanted to try this out.
If on the right side, you miss out on some of the mess on the right side of the bed and have to worry about the hotend wires interfering with the cr-touch. Neither is that big of a problem
@@NathanBuildsRobots I see your point. I hadn’t considered those things.
Sadly, I won’t be any help testing as I’ve completely gutted and rebuilt my ender 5 s1 into a zero-g mercury one and hydra setup. The only thing creality at this stage is the frame lol.
Hats off to ya for coming up with these low cost, easy to implement improvements because the road I went down certainly wasn’t either of those things haha.
Have you run into any issues with z position accuracy? What led me down the path of gutting the entire bed system was the fact my z-position was consistently inconsistent. One print it would be too high, the next it would be too low. This was with our without using abl.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Dual CR touch mod? Opportunity knocking maybe? Lol
Nice. I printed the new shroud yesterday. Just waiting for the fans to arrive
Cool! Hope it works. Only issue you might have is the CR-touch cable creality supplies is super short and doesnt reach to the new location. I can send you a longer one if that ends up being an issue for you.
You can actually use the old CR-touch mount location with the new fan duct if you feel like it. But for mine I definitely needed to reposition the CR-touch due to the bed leveling issues I was having.
As far as I understand, the bed leveling issue doesnt affect everyone, the actual misalignment is caused by tolerance stack up from a number of parts coming together.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks. I have a couiple cables here that I can use or adapt.
By releasing the tension on the y connector rod, it's possible your x and y are no longer perpendicular, so your prints become slightly skewed and v wheels may not be perfectly aligned. That was the case with my printer. I needed the tension. The root cause is the gantry not being perfectly square but haven't been able to fix that by realigning parts.
That is fascinating, hadn’t considered the x axis alignment. Maybe I need to reintroduce some skew
That's some great results! What was the time on that upgraded benchy?
40 minutes. I could go faster, but I need to calibrate input shaper and I lost the accelerometer that comes with the sonic pad
@@NathanBuildsRobots That's a great 40 minute Benchy!
Where is everyone finding the CR Touch offset mount. It's not listed in the catalog.
It’s on my patreon
I stepped down the creality rabbit hole, and 3 for 3 orders. Faulty and weeks of bits being sent out to fix 3 brand new items myself. lol. One of the printers clearly could never be assembled. They really need to get their QC together. Having to send out parts for three orders in a row! If that is a snapshot of the wider picture they're done lol.
Your right, creality makes sub par designs with bad quality control.
But at least they can be fixed outside of the factory. Bambu wants me to send my machine back to them to repair. I said no because I have never sent a machine back after starting a review.
Should I just give every company infinite tries to be able to get a “good one”? And what about my video production schedule? Should I just put off making videos to accommodate the fact that they sent out a faulty, nearly unserviceable printer?
Checked my Ender 5 S1 printers, they didn't have this defect, might have been only yours affected or a bad batch?
Apparently there is a 2nd revision of printers that have the CR-touch placed a little differently. Also some extra attention to detail during assembly and flatter heated beds could play a role
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah, can confirm. I got both version at home. Ordered them only 2 weeks apart. I probably got one the last V1 versions. The 1.06 firmware doesn't work for V1 because of the changed CR Touch position. Sensor is outside the bed and head bores into the bed when leveling :( Took me some time to figure out that only 1.05 firmware works for V1. The V2 comes shipped with 1.06 installed.
If you have the probe offsets set correctly, why was your mesh not correct?
This is copy-pasted from a community post on the topic. I could explain it with some charts and analysis a lot more clearly, but I don't get paid enough for this shit :P
The issue is not with the bed. The bed could be tipped 5 degrees at an angle and the ABL should measure accurately and compensate.
Do describe it in mathematical terms, ideally you want an identity matrix to convert inputs to outputs.
Meaning, 100mm of movement on X translates to 100 mm movement on X
What we have is some weird interplay between axes
So when commanding 100mm on X, you end up with something like 101mm on X, 0.1mm on Y, and -0.3mm on Z
If you are probing with the nozzle itself, you end up being able to compensate for all of this perfectly.
However, if you probe with an offset, the Z coordinate ends up being off by the amount of z error introduced by the offset travel.
With the current stock design with a 45mm Y offset, it causes big issues.
With my new design, which has 0 Y offset, and ~32mm X offset, everything works great.
Y offset introduces much more error than X offset in most printer designs, just due to how they are built.
Moving a lightweight carriage along a single extrusion (as is the case on the X-axis) is much less complicated than moving 2 carriages along 2 extrusions, that might not be perfectly aligned with eachother, with 2 belts, and a coupler that might not be working perfectly... There's a lot to unpack. Best bet is to just watch my next episode which will come out today or tomorrow.
If you mean, why did it run off the end and have an error during the first try at making the mesh, it just has to do with the way Klipper does its bed leveling. It wanted to mesh the whole surface, but since the probe is not coincident with the nozzle, the nozzle ends up being able to reach all points on the bed, but the ABL can't. It is unable to mesh the rightmost portion of the bed due to the offset (x carriage can only move to the right so far)
That Bambu lab print looks like it was made out of bamboo. It's gotta be a feature 👍
I found the the only reliable way to tram the bed on ender 5 S1 is removing the magnetic layer for the bed, putting glass bed over the bare metal and printing one 0.2mm 210x210 layer after z offset, bed level and bed mesh calibration and manually fine tuning the corner screws to get perfect lines across the whole bed - takes some time, but the results are worth it. Tho my benchy does not look as close as good to yours when printing at 250mm/s at 5000mm/s^2 :/
Not sure if it matters but your left front frame extrusion is upside down? The red sticker is supposed to be at the bottom.
Picked up a ender 5 s1 and sonic pad from Microcenter for 535 I'm excited to print
Nathan, would you tear your P1P apart if someone agreed to buy it from you (reassembed afterwards?)?
I'm planning on doing a teardown. Wouldn't feel right about selling it afterwards, because it may require some "destructive disassembly" methods.
I have done a teardown of everything except for the COREXY stage. I've seen a couple videos of people taking that apart, but mine appears to be glued together.
Regardless, even if it was pretty much scrap afterwards, I'd try to redesign/reassemble enough parts to get it back up and running (possibly on Klipper)
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would love love love to see that teardown, as well as any mods or DIY replacement parts. I love my P1Ps but we all know they aren't perfect and I don't want to have to replace them if I can fix them one day when something happens.
Do you have a version of these mods that would incorporate the longer k1 heater block?
Not yet but I like that idea
@@NathanBuildsRobots I'd def sub to your Patreon if you make one, and help you test it. Someone maden spacers for the CRTouch and fan cowling to work with the K1 block, but with the increased flow comes increased cooling needs and I doubt just adding spacers to my existing setup is goign to work out
On your short circuit, it looks like you may have just shorted 24v to gnd, which probably put the power supply into fault mode which was cleared upon power cycling?
You seem to have set your Hakko to arc soldering by accident.
And it only requires 4 AA batteries to do this!
So that is how the first layer is supposed to look all scraggly at the edges?
Awesome video! Will you cover the custom fan duct and the shortage device you installed?
The fan duct is available on my patreon (in video description). It’s still in a beta release awaiting some feedback on tolerances before I know it’s 100% good
Man, your reviews are really funny, but I like it😁
I bought myself an ender 5 s1 2 weeks ago, the printer prints amazingly at high speeds and is super quiet, my friend has a raven 2.4 and it's damn loud...the print quality is no better.
I have a printer of the 2nd version, without a Z limit switch and with molded plastic airflow. I also want to say that my bad is perfectly even, the spread is only + -0.02
Nice. I want to learn more about this 2nd version. Doesn't seem to be much info online. If you could share some pictures on the Discord it would be much appreciated!
@@NathanBuildsRobots ok 👌
Nice video, What nozzle setup did you end up buy or implementing, some sort of volcano? THanks
Volcano CHT with some brass spacer nuts. Works great up to very high flow rates
@Nathan Builds Robots I appreciate the reply. What is the purpose of the nuts. I guess the volcano threads are too long ? Mind sharing the volcano nozzle link with me and / or the nuts ?
Keep up the awesome work. Thanks
I'm having trouble saving the settings when i change them. It just causes trouble. Can you give me a run down on how to do that part. I can change the settings and i can try and save and restart. But then it doesn't want to do anything afterwards
What you suggest. Ender 3 s1 Plus vs Anycubic Kobra Plus.
Haven't tried the Anycubic so it's difficult to say. Maybe if they would send me a machine to test I could share. *Cough*
Use the belt tension gauge on thingiverse. Better than flicking the belts.
Slappa da bass 👋
Exactly what board are you using on your site I see the E3 Modder board but this is an E5 s1
It works for both, but the connector is slightly different for the thermistor on the Ender 5 S1, so requires some work to get it running, but technically it is compatible with both.
I have Ender 5s1 too i haven't faced any first layer issue which you showed on your video.
Final comment: i feel like you got some really good instruction prior to making this video about story-telling. Maybe you've got someone advising you. If that's correct, they've done a great job of helping you get to where you belong.
Haha you keep dissing my old videos. It's ok I know it's a compliment. Definitely have been working on the fundamentals of filmmaking.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I think of you as a worthy investment. That's why I reconnected with your Patreon page. Your previous videos (to this one), have all been interesting and entertaining. The rough edges are actually part of your schtict, I think. Personally, I hope you don't start saying "Let's get started" at the beginning of your videos. That seems to be what Google wants, however. But I encourage you to come up with your own slogan. Question: The Ender 5 Plus. Could one install the Sprite Pro on that non-core xy printer?
@@corlissmedia2.0 You probably could, you need to buy the sprite upgrade kit, it's about $110
@@NathanBuildsRobots I’ve got it in the cart. Just debating about putting it in the Ender 5-Plus, or not. I need a big machine to print a future Rook on.
I had similar issues on my p1p, to solve them I slightly moved the table so it doesnt collide with the wall, I think what is happening is that at the speeds it is moving when it does the resonance calibration are not enough to collide with the wall so when printing the resonance calibration doesnt work.
Thank you for the advice, I’ll try putting it on the floor and rerunning the calibration.
How you put those fan plz tell me i want better cooling system
Print out the fan duct and put it on! My previous Ender 5 S1 modding videos would probably help.
creality has sold far too many printers whiel doing very little to think through their designs. cant wait for more episodes of the podcast. you should do an experimental video with a high flow scara arm printer
They have been benchmarking against PRUSA since their foundation. Maybe now that Bambu has shown them that a high performance machine CAN be made on a budget, they’ll get off their rear and start improving their designs!
@@NathanBuildsRobots i wouldn't be so optimistic lol
if they will, it sure as heck wont be this year as they still got the ender 5 s1 pro and s1 plus to finish up and release, and these 2 alone already take longer than the ender 3 s1 series, they likely will start with something competing with the p1p at least by q3 or q4 of this year which is my most optimistic guess but nothing released till past q1 2024.
unless they paused the s1 pro and plus after seeing bambu lab their machine and soiled their pants that is after delivering this printer in this state.
to their credit they did respond somewhat well with the higher demand for klipper and the lack of pi's, but like, that too took about 3-4 months response time for them and released it along side the ender 5 s1.
personally i just really want the s1 plus to release already so ppl can review it and give me an idea if it's worth the wait since my prints require a bigger bed than the s1 and the ender 3 s1 plus isn't an option for me since i specifically want a coreXY this time around.
Great videos as always!
Hello, I own a 5 S1 printer with a sound pad, but I'm encountering an issue with the top layer. Similar to what was shown in a video, the printer is extruding excessive filament near the edges, except in the video it was with the first layer. Do any of you have any suggestions on how to resolve this problem?
I’d hop on the discord and post some pictures of it
Is there any guide to installing these upgrades😢
Just wing it! It’ll be fine! Or join the discord!
Isn't the Noctua 4010 fan underpowered for the hotend? My ender 3 kept clogging since It had an 4010 noctua fan installed.
Hello! Thank you for sharing your experience with problem solving and equipment improvement, and with a subtle sense of humor! After all this trouble, would you still recommend the Ender 5s1 as the best printer under $500? I also want to order him, but too many problems worry me. Maybe just take the Ender 3s1 pro and not think about higher speed?
It’s a good printer. Would only really consider this over the render 3 if you plan on using the sonic pad with it and doing some upgrades to it over time
cr touch misses the whole right side like that when probing..it goes all the way out to the left on the bed but misses alot on the right.
It misses the front of the bed on the stock profile. It’s not causing any problems though.
Hello again! When printing at high speed, the printer shakes a lot, should it be? Does it affect the quality, especially when printing something tall?
Hello, that is a great question. I’ll bring it up during the next episode of my podcast at
Perfectfirstlayer.com
The short answer is: shaking is bad, but sometimes it is ok.
It’s all relative - if the whole printer was floating in space, and it was shaking twitching around due to the tool head movement, that wouldn’t be a problem. The issue is when there is relative movement between parts. That is, If you have a frame mounted camera looking at the print area, if things are shaking from that perspective you have a problem.
If everything is shaking together that is fine. If parts are shaking relative to each other, not fine.
I'm too broke to support you on patreo but great work and video, thanks, its great to be able to see something a little more advanced than setup and print. the points you make helped me try and diagnose all the weird sounds on my ender 5 s1. although mostly it was realizing that whovere assembled it went too happy on the torque and everything was under stress, mostly loosening and retightening everything carefully helped both with the noise, and also printe quality.... just hope nothing comes back to bite me later.
also, I love the ender 5 s1, mostly because I like to tinker, modify and mostly I like to feel that something i own is truly mine, which is kind of hard whith something like a bambu where everyhing is proprietary so no thinking outside what they offer
Yeah, its fun to work on. Creality printers are odd in that they pretty much require mods to get them printing well.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah, it's most of the fun though. And it gives a sense of fulfilment to finally get them where youre happy with them
I just bought an ender-5 s1 + sonic pad, and I am now just seeing this video. It's makes me happy that you like this printer, which confirms I made a good choice.
I was actually looking for silence upgrades and saw you made a video on it, so this is perfect!
I couldn't find a silent squirrel blower though, so perhaps I will be going the double noctua setup on my part cooling fans like yours.
I also wanted to develop an interface board, but you beat me to it.
Nice work Nate!
Great video since I'm having first layer issues too. Do you have a file for just the CR Touch relocation mount, or is it only available with the duct fans?
What kind of nozzle is that on your Ender 5 S1 ?
It is a CHT volcano nozzle with 0.4mm nozzle diameter. If you check my Sonic Pad/Ender 5S1 video I cover the install.
always fire..i am having a similar issue I think with my e3S1..its reading .5 hikgh on 1 side..think the cr touch might be off or broke..it doesn't trigger sometimes
It should definitely trigger 100% of the time, if its being pressed. Have you tried talking to the mfg? Also you can get replacement CR-touches for about $15 on aliexpress
Hi, I'm about to upgrade to Sonic Pad + CHT nozzle.
How is this modded printer holding up about a year after?
Would you reccommend getting a newer Creality model over this?
Any tips at this stage before moving onto upgrading fans as well?
K1C is better in pretty much every way, except you can’t mod it
K1 SE is a cheaper version without an enclosure, it’s $360
Great video man, I just got my s1 in today. I don’t have the sonic pad yet, and I did notice a couple minor bed problems that I fixed with the level screws. Going to implement the fan shroud and the fan upgrade and the cr touch placement as soon as I can. Thanks for the information!
Mine works perfectly with no modifications. I've just printed a complete RC model aircraft that flies fantastically. The printer is in my hobby room and I have no problem with noise. It's never failed a print. Maybe you are too picky or have just been unlucky with it. No need to upgrade anything in my opinion it just works out of the box.
They revised the design after the first month of 2 of production to fix some of the issues I was having.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I don't know man...
Just received one Ender-5 S1 to review and I'm getting this weird first layer issue :(
The right side of the bed is always too close to the nozzle, but all 4 corners are perfectly leveled!
If your machine is working properly you can have horibly unlevel bed and with automatic leveling it will compensate when its printing
If you had skewness on x and y you couldn't have any calibrate printing also if you do good manual bed leveling and after that run auto bed leveling you won't be face on kind of issue
i have the ender 5s1 but its been down for weeks after the print head kept on clogging i didn't secure the heat since taking the tip out broke the heat sink but they don't have parts yet ps im in canada
How did you break the heatsink?
I have heard the same thing about lack of spare parts availability
Could you post the stl file for that test file?
Which test file? the flat circles?
@@NathanBuildsRobots exactly
It was just a random print that I had laying around, and I stopped it manually before it finished the rest of the print.
If you're in prusaslicer you can place a bunch of cylinders into the print area manually and do pretty much the same print
@@NathanBuildsRobots I can barely use Cura 522. But I’ll figure something out. Thank you.
How hard would it be to automatically micro adjust corners after running the 10-point?
Why do you need a micro adjustment? Automatic should be automatical
@@NathanBuildsRobots No, no... I mean YOU are having to manually make adjustements to the bed corners by raising/lowering, how hard would it be to do your 10-point inspection of the bed, then have those corners automatically adjust exactly thebright amount to make sure that bed is 100% level? 🙂
@@907-q7u There are printers that do that, but you need a minimum of 3 stepper motors to make that happen. Check out some videos on the voron trident bed leveling for an example.
th-cam.com/video/cz3V2HYF1Pc/w-d-xo.html
I tried this but the probe now moves off the bed during auto level. Do I have to use Klipper with this? I'm using the stock FW.
Yes, you would have to recompile the firmware with new bed offsets
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks for letting me know. Right now I use a dedicated laptop for the printer so I can "remote" print. That is through the Creality slicer, everything is stock. From my understanding I need to switch the printer firmware to Klipper, which also means I need to hook up a Raspberry Pi, install stuff on there, I'll lose the display on the printer (not a big deal), and I have to install some kind of web-interface on the Raspberry Pi to interact with the printer from there and the laptop will be of no use anymore, does that sound about right?
Is the K1 better ?
K1 is faster and has klipper built in, so better in a lot of ways, but some have extruder issues and overall print quality is higher on the E5S1.
Neither are perfect yet
The FB group I follow has had Ender 5 S1 owners trying to find spare parts for it without success, a ribbon cable and a silicon sock upto press, spares are non existant for this machine.
Very interesting. I'd like to learn more about this. Do you have any links that I could use to see what the trouble is?
@@NathanBuildsRobots The author of the post about the faulty ribbon cable is Nathan Quick posting on 3D Printing UK, and the guy trying to find replacement silicon socks I cant find, it might have been on Reddit, I will try and search, unfortunetly I installed an app to stop Microsoft mining my data and deleted my history by mistake, I have a save point that I can go back to though.
Dang. Well, seems like its tough info to track down.
Personally, I'd just switch to a ceramic heater for the hotend. They are much better and safer.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Creality have really played an ace this time, who in their right mind would release a printer with non standard parts and then not provide any spares for it, I believe he is sending the machine back, and so would I, not that I would have bought this machine in the first place, a P1P is only a little more expensive than the E5S1 and it has professionals running the company!
Bro. You're a legend. Subscrubed.
I dont know why you would want all that extra weight on the nozzle the s1 is great stock. Maybe upgrade to a kswiss k1 hot end then thats all gravy
Very cool video 🙏
How do you view the bed mesh?
I love my modder board that I put on my V2 Neo with a sprite. I have an E5S1 coming this week hopefully, so I'll probably buy another one. I thought your hair was a hat.
what nozzle size do you use?
We have a X1 carbon where I work. There are issues, it is not perfect. I also question the durability. It is impressive but disappointing at the same time.
DO NOT losen the screws on the x rod connector and jiggle it! it puts the y gantry on an angle and ur Prints are not square anymore (the angles are not 90 degrees). i did that what you said in the video and only 5 Month later i foung out that über 20 gears that i have printed where not round and more oval. Not much but enough to not make a clock work. you need the y achses exactly in a 90 degree angle to the x achses or you get deformed prints. calibration cubes wont detect it unless you measure diagonal. please fix this in the video or many get bad print results!
i guess this would be a good printer if i spent all this time and did all these mods. since i don't have time my ender 5 s1 will just have to continue to suck. btw. i'm having the exact same issue where the nozzle is too far on the left side and too close on the right side. no matter what i do, this keeps happening and the result is that i can't use the whole area of the printer.
it might be as fast as p1p in silent mode
Incorrect. It is faster than the P1P in silent mode.
The benchy shown in this video finished in under 40 minutes
If you look at the screenshot of babmbu slicer at 10:18
You will notice that the predicted time is around 48 minutes using the standard profile at normal speed.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I honestly couldn't tell u have x1 carbon its 24 min with all calibration or 17 min without in standard figured p1p was close to that
@@NathanBuildsRobots have ender 3 s1 can get down to 31 min on klipper but running into cooling issues that ender 5 fans set up u have would he nice on 3s1
Interesting. Maybe Bambu Lab should send me an X1C to review so I can try that out.
The Benchy shown on the video is the Creality sliced Boat running at 200% speed, 5000mm^2/s accelerations, and 0.2mm layer height.
In Bambuslicer, if I I set it to the fastest print profile (super draft 0.28mm layers, 1. wall) it finishes in 37 with preparation time or 31 without. I wonder if Bambulab can cut down on the preparation time with a firmware update. The bed leveling and initial setup is a bit slow.
I have some cooling duct designs for the Ender 3 S1, which I'd gladly reccommend (I've made videos on them).
But this other design might be better than mine. I'm very curious about it and will try it out when I have the time:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5511666
PS I want to buy your modder board for my Ender 3 S1 (I managed to short out the part cooling fan circuit on the OG board grrr) but shipping to the UK is CRAZY! Comes to 51GBP, and starts to cut into the 220GBP I bought my 3 S1 for, and 108GBP I paid for my Sonic Pad. Please bring your shipping prices down mate!
I will petition the post office to lower their prices XD
I have heard of other shipping options that gather a bunch of shipments together, then ship it and split it into smaller packages. I'll look into that as it could provide a cheaper option.
Same here
@@NathanBuildsRobots Will be visiting Canada in the spring time... might ship it to my family instead. Really want to get your board!
Nice, though I hate to tell you canadian shipping isn't much better. I'll look into those alternate shipping options. One is called PirateShip.
@@wyattutz I have reached out to several resellers but have not heard back from them.
shocking there still nocking out crap quality aiming it at new users
Quality is the #2 priority!
But in your Bambu lab review you said that it’s print quality is good. I almost bought one based on your review, …. not really, but anyway misleading 😅
I had only heard overwhelmingly positive things about the Bambu Lab printer. There were some minor print quality issues visible though, but I didn’t bother digging too far into it because I assumed it was probably fine.
I have a 2nd P1P to test, will see if it’s presenting the same issues or if the first one was just a lemon
0:20 i just love to see it
bambu showed us the way for z probing. piezo sensors under the bed! crtouch and similar probes are needlessly rube goldberg and still have offset errors. i suspect the reason why so many people have such great success with the bambu printers compared to others is because of this. with the bambu there's no adjusting the touch sensor or z offsets, it uses the actual nozzle to probe.
Not really a Rube Goldberg machine. It’s 2 functions, deploy and detect. It has 1 moving part. Is a ball point pe a Rube Goldberg machine?
I do like the bambu solution though. Gets rid of weight on the tool head. There are other printers in the market that use load cell based leveling, but putting it in the bed really is a good idea
@@NathanBuildsRobots compared to piezo sensors, mechanical touch sensors are dinosaurs. they are an order of magnitude more complex than piezos. put them under the bed like bambu, or in the extruder as some others do. bambu showed how lazy and complacent the industry has become. prusa mk3s+ kit for 799 or p1p for 699? lol.
I miss the S1 OG love
Xometry are 4 times more expensive than any other service.
If you use a spring coupler, it will be more forgiving towards errors like that.
Yes but you want a little springiness in the drive train as possible. Zeroing out the preload between the belts is the best option, along with tensioning the belts
I don't get the silent mod craze on 3d printers but I guess people can customize their machines as they wish. And Prusa vs Bambu fanboys? I need more data to make a call but both are insufferable and condescending to be sure.
Apparently my last video got shared on the Bambu Lab Facebook group. I think they felt personally attacked.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The influencers marketing bambulab as "no work; fastest printer" really should be liable for the numerous people buying them and not having an experience even remotely close to that.
I've got yt premium but I go to a private window with adblock on when I'm watching any slice/bambu shills' videos. It's sad to see people that are otherwise good creators handing in their trustworthiness and reputability in exchange for the bag.
Odd companies pay for the type of testing and feedback you do. You would think they would send more product for Nathan Torture Testing. Think of the marketing "survived NathanBuildRobots" stamp of approval could deliver.
@@ballbous Yeah, slice pays good affiliate rates. So you won't hear much bad about them.
Bambu is a new company and everyone wants to get in on the ground level as one of Bambu's nomba won inflshilluencers.
Wow yea I feel alot smarter aleady watching your videos lol
Huh.
Adds "zero Y offset" to the list.
Video is a 0/10 from me though, you clearly didn't apply enough boron nitride paste. Would have solved all your levelling issues.
I already applied boron nitride paste to the nozzle last episode, but you’re right. I should have put a fresh layer down.
Also it was negligent to not spread some some under the spring steel sheet with a butter knife.
Live soldering 😂😂
Hahhaha Bamboo and Prusa, yep, they are like apple fans. Oh I got a great deal on that 2000$ iPhone Max Pro.
Are Bambu Fanboys worse than Apple Fanboys? Asking for a friend 🙂
Apple fanboy here, my Mac is better for 90% of what I need to do on a computer. But I still use Windows and Linux for engineery stuff. And if you disagree YOU ARE WRONG!!! REEEEEEE
@@NathanBuildsRobots LOL
is the zero y offset crtouch probe mount a thing for the ender 3 s1? i have problems getting my bed level perfect almost like yours but not quite as bad, i cant get it perfect like my ender 3 v2 with a bltouch. i have silicone bed spacers on both. btw i agree with you bambu guys are hilarious i laugh at them while they have to wait for over a month for a single part hahah
Yeah, there are some zero Y-offset mounts for the Ender 3 S1. That is where I got the idea for this, but it applies there too!
@@NathanBuildsRobots good to know thanks! i plan on putting a different fan duct on my s1 since part cooling sucks on it stock and probably picking up one of your modder boards. you got great content man keep it up!!
No need for them to pay you 😁
You just put it on the plate for them 😉
It is much better for a product that is released in a finished state. Having to slap improvements on in the aftermarket to meet its design intent is fun for me, but makes the company seem unprofessional.
@@NathanBuildsRobots also, your material on TH-cam is copyright. Creatlity can't use your work without compensating you. The tie-in to the Modder Board (Nathan's Miracle Modder Board, I call it), brings income to Nathan, so that's nice. Maybe Creatility will order 1000's of them????? That would be nice too!
For some reason, large companies have a hard time switching out old designs. Also if the new part is even a penny more expensive than the old one it's a hard sell to management.
no wai dood
bumboo neverfixTM iz da bessssss
i lufs lokt down ecosysss
-shizposted from my iphone, boi
Indeed. I told Bambu if they want to send a machine for me to test, they are welcome to, and I will use it in all future comparisons.
Just need to make sure they grab it from the "influencer" bin this time.