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The best form of teaching will engage the audience, so that's why this kind of active puzzle is absolutely GREAT. I could watch and learn from this kind of seminar all day long. Thank you Duane, for putting the effort in.
I drive an almost identical minivan ('97 Voyager SE) as the one in this vid. And with the same problem. I was about to take it to the shop for diagnostics- at $80/ hr. for labor. After watching this, I realize that this is probably the fix that is needed. Tomorrow morning, I am going to disconnect the hatch wiring, to see if it's the hatch lock mechanism. If it's not in the hatch, I will just have to go and disconnect the hotwires for each door separately. This video just saved me a bunch of $$!
Thank you so much for your help with this! My 2015 Honda has been having these problems, and couldn't fathom it being something as simple as a bad ground.
@@rodneyjohnson2064 I replaced the entire door latch mechanism with a used one from the scrapyard. It was $25, only an hour or two to take the door panel off and replace the latch mechanism, and the problem completely went away! Still good 2 years later!
The lift gate lock cylinder switch must be partially shorting the 5V from the BCM to ground intermittently. Voltage only drops to 2.2V, but the toggling from 5V-2.2V must be causing the BCM to see the switch activating, thereby causing it to actuate the door locks.
Nice old video. I came from cloning rke fobs. My mother had a Chrysler version of this van. We got held hostage by that van, a couple times. Had to crawl out of the windows.
@michaelovitch Michael, my apologies to you. I'm sorry to have disappointed you. Please be assured that I do read all the comments. I also read all the emails I receive every day as well. I only wish I had the time to answer each one directly. My whole reason for doing any of this is to do what I can, to share what I can, so those who want to learn have some real time examples. My "answer" to the comments is not as valuable as the viewers comments. Duane
WAVETUBE84 the Liftgate is not showing a voltage drop from 5 v to close to zero just like you said. I also believe that the body control module logic is noticing that discrepancy and since the vehicle speed is above 15 mph the module is interpreting that as not closed and is repeatedly sending impulses to close the tailgate [liftgate] door
I thought it was a bad wire but now looks like it's the tailgate switch. I'd try running a ground through that connector to trigger the lock to see if it works as expected. that labscope makes the job way easier than using a multi meter though
The rear door latch maybe loose. If it is able to move enough to open the switch enough to break the contact...the BCM will be triggered. The latch should hold the door firmly closed. Maybe a minor adjustment. Otherwise, it's a bad switch, loose connection, improper ground bonding of the circuit. Inspect the wiring harness routing to see if it is secure to the door and where it passes from the chassis to the door.
May I know what Scan Tool you are using @3:15? Thank you for this great film. I experienced a similar problem yesterday on 2001 Saturn SL2 and very happy that came across your films. I have Innova FixAssist 3160 RS scanner. Can I use it for a similar test performed in this film?
could be the mechanical keylock in the tailgate if there is one. Something inside the lock could be making an intermittent connection, albeit a poor one.
I would say that corrosion from road dirt and water make it into the rear gate and by unplugging the wire the system seems to work properly. I would try and clean the switch if possible and retest ,if not cleanable I would just go ahead and replace the switch.
all 4 door locks jump up and down when trying to open and go to a locked position then I have to use key to get in drivers side manually ? pain in the ass
The liftgate circuit is not indicating the full 5volt drop. It drops form 5v to ~2.4v. So the liftgate switch, contacts, or wire connections are not conducting(making contact). Since the erratic lock/unlock symptom disappeared when the liftgate connector/circuit was disconnected...that isolates the problem to it. So(I speculate) that the lift gate switch contacts are bad or not making 100% continuity. Hmmm, it continues intermittently...while driving Maybe the liftgate switch is bouncing?
I have a similar problem with my Chevy hhr and at the same time it has problems shifting to next gear and cruise control sometimes work, any idea? Thanks
@happy543210 I would go along with that if the problem persisted when the tailgate lock switch was unplugged. Since it didn't stay shorted, I still think the problem is in the switch. Good thinking, though. I hadn't thought of that.
I did a look up on Amazon and Ebay... HOLD ON TO YOUR BRITCHES !!! These are "USED" Snap On Verus touch screen Scan Tool and Scope tools. The "Buy It Now" price ranges from $2400 to $6500. The Auction prices are from about $895 and up. In both cases units may or may not need batteries replaced, also possibly need a firmware update which is only available from Snap-On so expect to pay big time for the upgrade to the latest, as per the on line catalog, software ver. 16.2 . As usual these are only available from the "Snap-On" dealers in the trucks. A lot of the pricing based on paying for the "Snap-On" name.
Tater Digger - I found the pricing for software upgrade is like $500 or more. The poster of that info was pleased so much to call Snap-On... "Strap-On". There are other manufacturers of this type of diagnostic equipment that will not require a second mortgage plus your first born.
In my case, it ended up being a relay in the fuse box My original issue was slightly different tho. When i would unlock the door with the key, it would lock and unlock rapidly, at the same time, my wipers did not have any intermediate settings, only the last 2 settings worked (constant on, slow / constant on fast. The last 2 clicks on the wiper switch.). So i started by trying to fix the wiper issues, i replace the "Wiper ON" relay, and the wipers were fixed, but for some reason this also fixed my lock issue, so yay! tl:dr if you are having lock issues, try your relays first, they are only $10-$20 and are very easy to swap, located in the fuse box. in my case it was the "Wiper ON" relay.
@mobilemechman I don't think it's the gate lock. I think it's a broken wire on the harness at the point where the lift gate hinges on the car's body...that's were constant movement (lifting and lowering the gate) will cause the wires to break and either short out on each other or on a body ground.
Most likely rear hatch switch. But I would still check the circuit to rear hatch due to, as Duane pointed out, that circuit never voltage dropped close to zero volts. Ensure the circuit itself is ok. If so, replace rear latch
i have a ford crown victoria 2002 which has a similar problem , i want you to tell me what may be the problem in it and how to fix it as well. my car all of a sudden has all the lock only lock by remote and dont unlock but by the button they driver side switch isnt workin and the passenger side only unlock . whats the problem in here????
I have an 08 Suzuki Forenza. The locks keep going crazy while driving and or while parked. I don't have a scope/scan tool. Any suggestions on trouble shooting it?
I have a 98 Dodge Caravan. The door locks go up and down after turning off ignition and exiting car. Any idea what could be causing this problem and how to fix?
My car is 27 years old and has central door locking as a standard. i installed a remote control which works just fine. but since a half year i already killed two solenoids. those are pretty expensive. and no i am wondering if those are just worn out or if i did something wrong by installing.
Wiring harness leading trigger mechanism that actuates the lift-gate lock is faulty. Insulation could be stripped in a spot causing intermittent grounding giving a false ground signal
Well I just watched the video 8 years after it has been posted - however sine the voltage was drawn down on the offending circuit to about 1.5 volts without being activated and returned to 5 volts when unplugged - I'd venture to say that the switch in the rear is partially grounded causing erratic operation of the lock circuit.... So now it's off to watch the 3rd installment...
i had the same problem on my jeep liberty kk,i went to jeep they said i had a bad door actuator i replaced that and now its still doing it my dash just chimes and says door doesnt even lock them any ideas?
Damn I need you here to do my locks. They doing the same thing. And my remote don't lock my doors but it unlocks them. Pain in the ass to go around and lock all doors. But my tail gate door can't be locked without remote.
2:55 "The three wires that correspond to the three grounds going into the BCM" These are not grounds. They are the signals from three of the five switches. Each of those switches has three positions, which can be seen poorly at 6:09. The positions are : Normally open (signal to BCM pulled high to 5V by pull-up resistor in BCM),; and the up and down positions which connect to two different values of resistor to ground, thus pulling down the signal to the BCM to different low voltages, distinguishing up/down (and which switch for the pairs that share a wire) . If the red scope trace is the liftgate lock switch, and disconnecting it solves the problem, then apparently there's either a fault in that switch, or the wiring to that switch, or the mechanism that activates that switch.
My '05 Tucson does that but not at certain speeds. Just random sometimes I can hear them clicking in the back. Then sometimes the door lock thingie in the door will stick halfway and I have to manually push the button til it unsticks and clears and it workable with the remote. Then sometimes my remote won't work. And then...sometimes it will just "CLICK" and lock itself and that really sucks when I have just closed the door and the keys are still in the ignition!!!!! GRRRRR Then... my brand new battery went dead 3 times in the past month and I KNOW this is the problem!! There is a short somewhere... So I took it to an electrical shop and the door lock switch thingie has to be shipped from the East Coast to Portland Or and it costs $240. And total cost will be $650. I want to drive the Tuscon into a lake. With ME in it cuz I am such a PUTZ for paying that much!!!!! GRRRRRR Thank you so much for your helpful videos!!! Appreciate it very much.
What the point to make written comments if you never answer to them but only with the video in wich the problem is resolved yet ? Is it just only for the adsense program ?
What if your car is doing this and the interior lights are coming on as well? Plus the auto headlight feature is not working. 2002 Ford Taurus SEL. The alarm will also go off for no reason after its parked and locked with the key fob. What should be checked and in what order?
I sometimes lock my car manually to keep it running and locked but this sometimes throws it off kilter. My locked car kept unlocking by itself and lights were draining my battery. Ugh. I want this auto lock removed and just use my keys.
@michaelovitch Just be greatful that Dwayne is spending his time helping to educate people for NO return. Most answers will be answered if you CAREFULLY LISTEN
Oddly I like this form of entertainment. Getting good use out of your Verus, as you definitely should for how much it costs. Snap-on should give you a cutback for promoting it so heavily, I feel like I gotta get me one but lest I'm not a shop mechanic but just a DIYer on the weekend and electronics technician during the week.
@realfixesrealfast Thank you for your answer. You don't have to apologize you did nothing bad at all. i'm not disappointed too but just curious. I understand you have a lot of emails and a work and only 24 h in a day. i just wanted to know why you ask people to guess the problem if you resolved it yet and if it was only to have more comments in your vids ? I 've learned a lot watching your vids and i thank you for that. But don't lost what made your channel what it is now with adsense program.
PT Cruiser with haunted tailgate. I'm just going to disconnect in. Otherwise, what's the fix? Thought maybe the fault was in the driver's door latch, but I'm over it, unless you have a simple solution. It's an '05 , but has a keylock on the tailgate, so what am I losing? Nice little car, but this has been doing my head in. Cheers, Andy
Well, hete we are in vid #2 and to your answer.....'s to vid #1, if I was a Eectrical Mechanic with the guages I wouldn't be in Residential Construction.
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The best form of teaching will engage the audience, so that's why this kind of active puzzle is absolutely GREAT. I could watch and learn from this kind of seminar all day long. Thank you Duane, for putting the effort in.
One of the best automotive videos I have ever seen on TH-cam. An excellent mechanic and an excellent teacher. Well Done!!!
Thank you for being so thorough and technical yet clear. Your professional expertise is greatly appreciated.
You are welcome, thanks for your comments
I like learning, it makes my customers feel good. Keep it up Duane, great job.
Great video, I love when someone speaks clearly. Simplifying electrical.
Now that is quality troubleshooting. Good job.
I drive an almost identical minivan ('97 Voyager SE) as the one in this vid. And with the same problem. I was about to take it to the shop for diagnostics- at $80/ hr. for labor. After watching this, I realize that this is probably the fix that is needed. Tomorrow morning, I am going to disconnect the hatch wiring, to see if it's the hatch lock mechanism. If it's not in the hatch, I will just have to go and disconnect the hotwires for each door separately. This video just saved me a bunch of $$!
Thorough study .... thank you
Thank you so much for your help with this!
My 2015 Honda has been having these problems, and couldn't fathom it being something as simple as a bad ground.
Thanks, I appreciate your comments. A good ground is vital to anything electric
How do you fix the ground
@@rodneyjohnson2064 I replaced the entire door latch mechanism with a used one from the scrapyard.
It was $25, only an hour or two to take the door panel off and replace the latch mechanism, and the problem completely went away!
Still good 2 years later!
The problem with mine was a bad key fob. It was apparently sending signals to lock the doors constantly.
Great job, nice video. Thanks
The lift gate lock cylinder switch must be partially shorting the 5V from the BCM to ground intermittently. Voltage only drops to 2.2V, but the toggling from 5V-2.2V must be causing the BCM to see the switch activating, thereby causing it to actuate the door locks.
Nice old video. I came from cloning rke fobs. My mother had a Chrysler version of this van. We got held hostage by that van, a couple times. Had to crawl out of the windows.
Absolutely amazing teaching and professional service. Thank you creating such a great video.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for commenting
thank you!!
Wow, fantastic video. N basically the same model car im having the issue with. Thank you Sir
Now this is a good educational video! 🤘🏽🔥
On our 2005 Colorado it was a loose door latch .Make sure all door latches are tight.
@michaelovitch Michael, my apologies to you. I'm sorry to have disappointed you. Please be assured that I do read all the comments. I also read all the emails I receive every day as well. I only wish I had the time to answer each one directly. My whole reason for doing any of this is to do what I can, to share what I can, so those who want to learn have some real time examples. My "answer" to the comments is not as valuable as the viewers comments.
Duane
@mobilemechman You are correct, it was the door lock. Well done, Sir.
this man is a very smart mechanic he is the best
HE SURE IS MART N NOT LAZY LIKE TODAYS RIP OFF MECHANICS
WAVETUBE84 the Liftgate is not showing a voltage drop from 5 v to close to zero just like you said. I also believe that the body control module logic is noticing that discrepancy and since the vehicle speed is above 15 mph the module is interpreting that as not closed and is repeatedly sending impulses to close the tailgate [liftgate] door
I thought it was a bad wire but now looks like it's the tailgate switch. I'd try running a ground through that connector to trigger the lock to see if it works as expected. that labscope makes the job way easier than using a multi meter though
The rear door latch maybe loose. If it is able to move enough to open the switch enough to break the contact...the BCM will be triggered. The latch should hold the door firmly closed. Maybe a minor adjustment. Otherwise, it's a bad switch, loose connection, improper ground bonding of the circuit. Inspect the wiring harness routing to see if it is secure to the door and where it passes from the chassis to the door.
@spelunkerd your welcome, and thanks for the encouragement
Very Cool
May I know what Scan Tool you are using @3:15? Thank you for this great film. I experienced a similar problem yesterday on 2001 Saturn SL2 and very happy that came across your films. I have Innova FixAssist 3160 RS scanner. Can I use it for a similar test performed in this film?
could be the mechanical keylock in the tailgate if there is one. Something inside the lock could be making an intermittent connection, albeit a poor one.
I would say that corrosion from road dirt and water make it into the rear gate and by unplugging the wire the system seems to work properly. I would try and clean the switch if possible and retest ,if not cleanable I would just go ahead and replace the switch.
It's a Snap-On verus and when you see the price you might change your mind.
Can you tell me what scope your using?
@foxdmulder I've been getting that a lot as well.
all 4 door locks jump up and down when trying to open and go to a locked position then I have to use key to get in drivers side manually ? pain in the ass
I have the same problem 08 Jaguar S type
The liftgate circuit is not indicating the full 5volt drop. It drops form 5v to ~2.4v. So the liftgate switch, contacts, or wire connections are not conducting(making contact). Since the erratic lock/unlock symptom disappeared when the liftgate connector/circuit was disconnected...that isolates the problem to it. So(I speculate) that the lift gate switch contacts are bad or not making 100% continuity. Hmmm, it continues intermittently...while driving Maybe the liftgate switch is bouncing?
What's the sensor reader you're using?
I have a similar problem with my Chevy hhr and at the same time it has problems shifting to next gear and cruise control sometimes work, any idea? Thanks
Now i know how to pay attention while taking a class to which i wont bother to take a test .
@happy543210 I would go along with that if the problem persisted when the tailgate lock switch was unplugged. Since it didn't stay shorted, I still think the problem is in the switch. Good thinking, though. I hadn't thought of that.
im new to this but you conect blue yellow and green and where do you put the black ground wire ?
I think that’s COVID-19 symptoms. Your car has COVID-19
Awesome trouble shooting technique and demonstration. Thank You for posting. Now if I had a scope. LOL
Oh you bet, the scope can probably be had for the "modest" price of $2000 to $3000. Ain't technology wonderful? LOL
I did a look up on Amazon and Ebay... HOLD ON TO YOUR BRITCHES !!! These are "USED" Snap On Verus touch screen Scan Tool and Scope tools. The "Buy It Now" price ranges from $2400 to $6500. The Auction prices are from about $895 and up. In both cases units may or may not need batteries replaced, also possibly need a firmware update which is only available from Snap-On so expect to pay big time for the upgrade to the latest, as per the on line catalog, software ver. 16.2 . As usual these are only available from the "Snap-On" dealers in the trucks. A lot of the pricing based on paying for the "Snap-On" name.
Tater Digger - I found the pricing for software upgrade is like $500 or more. The poster of that info was pleased so much to call Snap-On... "Strap-On". There are other manufacturers of this type of diagnostic equipment that will not require a second mortgage plus your first born.
In my case, it ended up being a relay in the fuse box
My original issue was slightly different tho.
When i would unlock the door with the key, it would lock and unlock rapidly, at the same time, my wipers did not have any intermediate settings, only the last 2 settings worked (constant on, slow / constant on fast. The last 2 clicks on the wiper switch.). So i started by trying to fix the wiper issues, i replace the "Wiper ON" relay, and the wipers were fixed, but for some reason this also fixed my lock issue, so yay!
tl:dr if you are having lock issues, try your relays first, they are only $10-$20 and are very easy to swap, located in the fuse box.
in my case it was the "Wiper ON" relay.
How do you know which relay tho
@mobilemechman I don't think it's the gate lock. I think it's a broken wire on the harness at the point where the lift gate hinges on the car's body...that's were constant movement (lifting and lowering the gate) will cause the wires to break and either short out on each other or on a body ground.
Most likely rear hatch switch. But I would still check the circuit to rear hatch due to, as Duane pointed out, that circuit never voltage dropped close to zero volts. Ensure the circuit itself is ok. If so, replace rear latch
How did i miss that in auto mechanics school
When my truck does this I wanna hurt myself damn that’s annoying
I have this same problem and it drives me nuts!
Sarah DeRome
@foxdmulder I have been having the same issue I thought it was just me, I've missed a lot of new videos. Wonder what the problem is.
You are i f love you job i,
wish i could be closed.
so i could learn and help others.
great vid keep em coming
Good Evening Realfixesrealfast take care and have a great day Realfixesrealfast 👍
Great tutorial thanks 👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
i have a ford crown victoria 2002 which has a similar problem , i want you to tell me what may be the problem in it and how to fix it as well. my car all of a sudden has all the lock only lock by remote and dont unlock but by the button they driver side switch isnt workin and the passenger side only unlock . whats the problem in here????
I have an 08 Suzuki Forenza. The locks keep going crazy while driving and or while parked. I don't have a scope/scan tool. Any suggestions on trouble shooting it?
like wise - did you solve it?
This is a thorough video for a mechanic, but what about a Joe Schmo that doesn't have the fancy equipment to hook up to the vehicle?
Where is Fuse Box location for a 1989 Dodge Ram B350...thank you
The built in switch in the locking cylinder needs to be swapped.
I need to borrow 1000 dollars to get my doors windows and locks to be fixed on my ford escape!
I have a 98 Dodge Caravan. The door locks go up and down after turning off ignition and exiting car. Any idea what could be causing this problem and how to fix?
My car is 27 years old and has central door locking as a standard. i installed a remote control which works just fine. but since a half year i already killed two solenoids. those are pretty expensive. and no i am wondering if those are just worn out or if i did something wrong by installing.
My friends Honda Odyssey did this. They are getting a new car because it got totaled.
Screw that just buy another car
By the data.....the rear switch is the issue.
99% of time with electrical problems are a ground wiring problem, in this case I believe it’s a faulty lock switch on a door, or more than one.
Wiring harness leading trigger mechanism that actuates the lift-gate lock is faulty. Insulation could be stripped in a spot causing intermittent grounding giving a false ground signal
short in the plug going to the senser on the door lock
Well I just watched the video 8 years after it has been posted - however sine the voltage was drawn down on the offending circuit to about 1.5 volts without being activated and returned to 5 volts when unplugged - I'd venture to say that the switch in the rear is partially grounded causing erratic operation of the lock circuit.... So now it's off to watch the 3rd installment...
i had the same problem on my jeep liberty kk,i went to jeep they said i had a bad door actuator i replaced that and now its still doing it my dash just chimes and says door doesnt even lock them any ideas?
Damn I need you here to do my locks. They doing the same thing. And my remote don't lock my doors but it unlocks them. Pain in the ass to go around and lock all doors. But my tail gate door can't be locked without remote.
You are brilliant! You know your electrical ! I have a crown vic that sit parked and locks/unlocks by it self... any ideas?
Without knowing more it is just a guess. Does it have a key fob ? Could be the transponder
Can you Please tell me how i can fix the same problem on toyota camry 1999 the doors lock and unlock on their own and any time i start the care ?
awesome information. thank you
Its a chrysler, of course the BCM is shot, ha ha
I see why it pays to be ASE CERTIFIED
The switch ground
2:55 "The three wires that correspond to the three grounds going into the BCM" These are not grounds. They are the signals from three of the five switches. Each of those switches has three positions, which can be seen poorly at 6:09. The positions are : Normally open (signal to BCM pulled high to 5V by pull-up resistor in BCM),; and the up and down positions which connect to two different values of resistor to ground, thus pulling down the signal to the BCM to different low voltages, distinguishing up/down (and which switch for the pairs that share a wire) . If the red scope trace is the liftgate lock switch, and disconnecting it solves the problem, then apparently there's either a fault in that switch, or the wiring to that switch, or the mechanism that activates that switch.
... which turns out to be true in part 3.
My '05 Tucson does that but not at certain speeds. Just random sometimes I can hear them clicking in the back. Then sometimes the door lock thingie in the door will stick halfway and I have to manually push the button til it unsticks and clears and it workable with the remote. Then sometimes my remote won't work. And then...sometimes it will just "CLICK" and lock itself and that really sucks when I have just closed the door and the keys are still in the ignition!!!!! GRRRRR Then... my brand new battery went dead 3 times in the past month and I KNOW this is the problem!! There is a short somewhere... So I took it to an electrical shop and the door lock switch thingie has to be shipped from the East Coast to Portland Or and it costs $240. And total cost will be $650. I want to drive the Tuscon into a lake. With ME in it cuz I am such a PUTZ for paying that much!!!!! GRRRRRR
Thank you so much for your helpful videos!!! Appreciate it very much.
What the point to make written comments if you never answer to them but only with the video in wich the problem is resolved yet ?
Is it just only for the adsense program ?
LOL what were you smoking when you wrote thissssss
@@kongolobuluanda2169
Just frustraded i think.
I gave the video a thumb up 9 years ago,it's still there.
What if your car is doing this and the interior lights are coming on as well? Plus the auto headlight feature is not working. 2002 Ford Taurus SEL. The alarm will also go off for no reason after its parked and locked with the key fob. What should be checked and in what order?
Murphy Collinsworth I get same issue everything you said and it's a Ford taurus 2008. Did you figure this out?
I sometimes lock my car manually to keep it running and locked but this sometimes throws it off kilter. My locked car kept unlocking by itself and lights were draining my battery. Ugh. I want this auto lock removed and just use my keys.
My guess is that the wiring going to the lift gate is somehow picking up interference or something
I have door ajar on a liberty but in all 4 doors as read by the scanner...Could it be the bcm
Would love to get my hand on that scope
most of the time the problem is in the outside fuses box the wires comes green
The lift gate lock?
@michaelovitch Just be greatful that Dwayne is spending his time helping to educate people for NO return. Most answers will be answered if you CAREFULLY LISTEN
How would it cost to fix this problem
would that body control module cause the headlights to flash when started and when you lock the doors and the back door to lock back imediately?
Anything is possible with computers but I would not think so. Most likely a wiring problem,.
Oddly I like this form of entertainment. Getting good use out of your Verus, as you definitely should for how much it costs. Snap-on should give you a cutback for promoting it so heavily, I feel like I gotta get me one but lest I'm not a shop mechanic but just a DIYer on the weekend and electronics technician during the week.
@realfixesrealfast
Thank you for your answer.
You don't have to apologize you did nothing bad at all.
i'm not disappointed too but just curious.
I understand you have a lot of emails and a work and only 24 h in a day.
i just wanted to know why you ask people to guess the problem if you resolved it yet and if it was only to have more comments in your vids ?
I 've learned a lot watching your vids and i thank you for that.
But don't lost what made your channel what it is now with adsense program.
Lift gate lock actuator
What causing it to drain the battery
short in stop light bulbs contact
You probably have water in a molix plug
Real fast? No thanks, don't have 10 minutes for college course.
PT Cruiser with haunted tailgate.
I'm just going to disconnect in.
Otherwise, what's the fix?
Thought maybe the fault was in the driver's door latch, but I'm over it, unless you have a simple solution.
It's an '05 , but has a keylock on the tailgate, so what am I losing?
Nice little car, but this has been doing my head in.
Cheers, Andy
@precopster1
HIS answer would be more interesting.
Input input more input
Well, hete we are in vid #2 and to your answer.....'s to vid #1, if I was a Eectrical Mechanic with the guages I wouldn't be in Residential Construction.
My car is doing it just sitting there or any time the key is out of the ignition. Killed the battery overnight.
Mine too
@@jasonjones7540 I put a new battery in the fob and it seems to have helped.
I still don’t know what you said the problem is
@CoolasIce2 tony????
Thenks for the reply though, lol