Starting with a 454 gives you the advantage of not having to swap or modify the ac/heater hoses and windshield washer reservoir like you would if your truck had the 6.5l. However, already having a diesel cluster arguably makes it easier to get your tach to work since you don't have to utilize a Dakota digital tachometer conversion box to convert the signal from your alternator to be readable by the gas cluster. You can also add a W terminal to the stock denso dodge alternator and hook it up directly to a diesel version cluster that also already has the wait to start light, but the reading won't be entirely accurate. To hook up the speedometer and US-Shift trans controller, find the two pairs of braided wires (purple/white and green/black) coming from the transfer case output shaft (on 4wds, on 2wd it's on left rear of trans), splice them into the US Shift without disconnecting them from the vehicle speed sensor buffer so as to not interfere with ABS, and then take the speedometer output from the US Shift and connect that to the dark green wire (#14) going to the speedo on your cluster, making sure to disconnect it from the VSSB. After removing the 454 and its motor mounts, cut the bottom lip portion of the motor mount area off on each side and drill the 1/2-9/16 holes in the exact spots for the conversion motor mounts (1.1" right from center of existing top left mount hole, 2.73" down). You will also need to cut off two small "support" bars near the core support (they make a v shape directly in front of the motor mounts) as well as replace the top bolts in your front diff with recessed ones that will allow for more room (not required with 6 inch lift or if 2wd). The lip between the trans tunnel/bottom of the firewall will need to be beat back with a hammer if you are not using a significantly sized body lift. Save both the coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor from the old motor (if 454, there are two coolant temp sensors, the one you need is the one for the gauge cluster which has only one wire going to it) to install on the 12V with adapters that allow them to screw into existing tapped holes on the block. The coolant temp sensor can be installed on the front of the block where the vent tube for the p-pump used to go with a 1/2" MPT male thread to 3/8" MPT female thread bushing if you're using a high mount ac kit and smaller thermostat that doesn't require the vent tube (vertical water outlet). The oil pressure sensor can be installed on the Cummins block with a 1/8" male MPT to 1/4" MPT female adapter between the p-pump and motor mount where there is an existing tap into oil passage or on top of the oil filter housing. If using the old 4l80e, the transmission crossmember needs to be moved backwards roughly 1.5-2 inches due to the additional length of the motor and you will need to use the correct flex plate/adapter as well as a US-Shift trans controller. Obviously, since the transmission moves back the rear driveshaft needs to be shortened and if you have 4wd the front needs to be lengthened. The old throttle pedal cable and cruise control can be modified to connect directly to the cummins throttle linkage. Some people throw on the work truck grill with thinner lights beneath the upper headlights that allow for the intercooler piping to snake through, but it is not all that difficult to modify the stock turn/marker lights by cutting them down to a thinner depth and reinstalling the bulbs. A stock dodge radiator hose can be bent and adapted to the upper radiator with rubber 90° elbows. The old ac condenser can be utilized directly behind the FMIC if you build some mounting brackets and clear the core support a bit for the lines. The bottom of the hood latch support needs to be cut off and reinforced differently while the radiator mounts on top are slightly relocated from the original position in order to move the radiator and allow more room up front. The intercooler piping should come out of the turbo into the passenger fender well, through the front core support (hole must be cut), into the FMIC, back through the same area on the drivers side of the core support, using nothing but 45 and 90 mandrel bends and one 180 u bend 3" exhaust tubing. Coming from the turbo on the passenger side, the piping can be ran by staring with a 90, going into two 45's, then another 90 directly into the intercooler. From the intercooler, it starts with a 180 u bend, then goes to a 90 mandrel bend, straight up to the stock cummins intercooler pipe just before the intake. The top half of the dodge fan shroud can be utilized behind the radiator, but the bottom half will not fit. Hook up your fuel, ac/heater lines, 12v in, run, fuel shutoff, and start to your ignition/batteries/relays accordingly and enjoy your new truck!
Starting with a 454 gives you the advantage of not having to swap or modify the ac/heater hoses and windshield washer reservoir like you would if your truck had the 6.5l. However, already having a diesel cluster arguably makes it easier to get your tach to work since you don't have to utilize a Dakota digital tachometer conversion box to convert the signal from your alternator to be readable by the gas cluster. You can also add a W terminal to the stock denso dodge alternator and hook it up directly to a diesel version cluster that also already has the wait to start light, but the reading won't be entirely accurate. To hook up the speedometer and US-Shift trans controller, find the two pairs of braided wires (purple/white and green/black) coming from the transfer case output shaft (on 4wds, on 2wd it's on left rear of trans), splice them into the US Shift without disconnecting them from the vehicle speed sensor buffer so as to not interfere with ABS, and then take the speedometer output from the US Shift and connect that to the dark green wire (#14) going to the speedo on your cluster, making sure to disconnect it from the VSSB. After removing the 454 and its motor mounts, cut the bottom lip portion of the motor mount area off on each side and drill the 1/2-9/16 holes in the exact spots for the conversion motor mounts (1.1" right from center of existing top left mount hole, 2.73" down). You will also need to cut off two small "support" bars near the core support (they make a v shape directly in front of the motor mounts) as well as replace the top bolts in your front diff with recessed ones that will allow for more room (not required with 6 inch lift or if 2wd). The lip between the trans tunnel/bottom of the firewall will need to be beat back with a hammer if you are not using a significantly sized body lift. Save both the coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor from the old motor (if 454, there are two coolant temp sensors, the one you need is the one for the gauge cluster which has only one wire going to it) to install on the 12V with adapters that allow them to screw into existing tapped holes on the block. The coolant temp sensor can be installed on the front of the block where the vent tube for the p-pump used to go with a 1/2" MPT male thread to 3/8" MPT female thread bushing if you're using a high mount ac kit and smaller thermostat that doesn't require the vent tube (vertical water outlet). The oil pressure sensor can be installed on the Cummins block with a 1/8" male MPT to 1/4" MPT female adapter between the p-pump and motor mount where there is an existing tap into oil passage or on top of the oil filter housing. If using the old 4l80e, the transmission crossmember needs to be moved backwards roughly 1.5-2 inches due to the additional length of the motor and you will need to use the correct flex plate/adapter as well as a US-Shift trans controller. Obviously, since the transmission moves back the rear driveshaft needs to be shortened and if you have 4wd the front needs to be lengthened. The old throttle pedal cable and cruise control can be modified to connect directly to the cummins throttle linkage. Some people throw on the work truck grill with thinner lights beneath the upper headlights that allow for the intercooler piping to snake through, but it is not all that difficult to modify the stock turn/marker lights by cutting them down to a thinner depth and reinstalling the bulbs. A stock dodge radiator hose can be bent and adapted to the upper radiator with rubber 90° elbows. The old ac condenser can be utilized directly behind the FMIC if you build some mounting brackets and clear the core support a bit for the lines. The bottom of the hood latch support needs to be cut off and reinforced differently while the radiator mounts on top are slightly relocated from the original position in order to move the radiator and allow more room up front. The intercooler piping should come out of the turbo into the passenger fender well, through the front core support (hole must be cut), into the FMIC, back through the same area on the drivers side of the core support, using nothing but 45 and 90 mandrel bends and one 180 u bend 3" exhaust tubing. Coming from the turbo on the passenger side, the piping can be ran by staring with a 90, going into two 45's, then another 90 directly into the intercooler. From the intercooler, it starts with a 180 u bend, then goes to a 90 mandrel bend, straight up to the stock cummins intercooler pipe just before the intake. The top half of the dodge fan shroud can be utilized behind the radiator, but the bottom half will not fit. Hook up your fuel, ac/heater lines, 12v in, run, fuel shutoff, and start to your ignition/batteries/relays accordingly and enjoy your new truck!
Looks good. The more documentation, the better. Thanks
Chummins!
Towing?