1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
GS to GS-T:
To turbo an NA 4G63, the least you need is the exhaust, manifold, turbo, intercooler and piping, BOV, and an SAFC, but you can and probably should go as far as adding a turbo ECU (with extra wires), knock sensor, turbo MAF, injectors, fuel pump, turbo oil pan, turbo intake cam, FPR, and turbo pistons. This all depends on your future intentions for the car, if you do a very basic install with NA pistons, NA ECU, and an SAFC, you can handle roughly 8psi without breaking things and should set the BOV accordingly. If you plan on modifying the car to be similar to a more heavily modified DSM you'll definitely need the stronger turbo pistons, knock sensor, and other components listed above including fuel and you'll have to remember that the NA blocks do not have oil squirters so you should really only go to around 14psi max. If you install a turbo ECU you will have to manually wire both the knock sensor (the NA block is already tapped for the sensor) and the MAF up using the diagram to adhere the wires to the correct pin locations on the connector (use turbo MAF connector and manually run extra wire to correct spot on ECU). You can drill into your N/A oil pan and fabricate a connection for the oil return or simply source a turbo oil pan for this. For anyone just wanting low boost on their DSM, it is actually very easy to do a GS-T conversion all things considered.
GS-T to GSX:
Firstly the only piece of sheet metal that needs to be modified is the floor pan in the trunk which is not all that bad you can just cut out the well for the spare tire and put in a new flat piece in its place. You can get a rear end from an AWD and cut the mounts off of the AWD car and put them on your swap or make your own mounts which would give you the option of using a straight axle out of a ford or something if you so desired. You can make a crossmember that welds into the rear frame rails and floor pan since the rear subframe mounts are already there. Now, you can cut the AWD fuel tank mounts out and install them on your Swap or fabricate your own. The rear driveshaft mount can be cut out of an AWD but it is not difficult to fabricate one of your own. After you cut the front driveshaft mounts out of an AWD, including the very front crossmember mounts, all that's left is putting in the AWD front cross member, spindles, and steering half shaft. In other words, most everything can be sourced directly from an AWD donor, including the x-member mounts, rear driveshaft mounts, and trunk floor, or you can fabricate your own.
Most of this job is literally directly transplanting the center diff/carrier bearing mounts and then fabricating simple mounts for the rear.
There's no need to cut a tunnel for the driveshaft and you can make a one piece driveshaft work. Didn't even have to relocate shock mounts. Ford straight 8.8" and 9" axles with 3.55 gears are close enough to the 3.545 ratio DSMs have and they have been used in several AWD swaps handling over 800hp unlike the stock rear suspension. The '95+ explorer 8.8s are equipped with a 3.55 gear ratio, 31spline axles, LSD, disc breaks, and it's 1.75" wider than the track width on a DSM, whereas the 8.8s from a ranger and fox are closer to the same width as a stock DSM.
Finally, I'd like to extend a formal F-U to everyone that said it wasn't possible. I will be doing the same conversion on a 2G as well.
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Music:
Chris Haugen Snowy Peaks