good to see it wasn't all completely ruined. a sigh of relief lol. I need a space to work so I can tear my renesis down. Believe I have a control ring dying. Been smoking a bit during pulls, but its random which is confusing lol.
Your bedroom is an option….I’m building a turbo2 bridgeport 13b in my room as we speak. I did the disassembly and cleaning outside and brought the parts inside cleaned and ready to go. Once I get the rotor bearings pressed in, (they came in today) I’m putting it together.
Big g clamp to hold housing down on front iron.. Make a slide puller to pull Dowell's..rx8 engine mount to block bolt is same thread as the dowel.. Cut the head off wind into a spare dowel, put one in other end and fix something to it as the puller
I think the 10mm stud debate is taught by people who don't know rotaries brake. 1/2" 12mm studs or extra dowels are the real fix. Rotaries don't need to be clamped harder they need to stop the twisting.
Don't run a bearing with copper showing mate..they are $50 haha.. especially with rx8 cranks and boost, they flex easier, check it for run out with a dial indicator..if its more than 0.10 bin it.. But please don't run any copper showing bearings..the copper will expand more, catch you crank and grab it again
@@subifudriftkings there is plenty of differences the part numbers correspond to a colour you will see on the bearing h bearings internal diameter is different I would measure your crankshaft lobe then measure the internal diameter of you bearing you are going to find the difference between the two will tell you which bearing you need. Basically the bearing with green or yellow on them have a bigger tolerance the auto bearing while it has the same internal diameter as some of the manual bearings only has one hole to disperse the oil but you can drill more holes that's easy don't have the tools to measure and your crankshaft is second-hand maybe look at red bearing nearest heaps of factors to do it if you're crank is slightly bent also they will make your bearings wear faster so that's why you need a bigger bearing clearance
good to see it wasn't all completely ruined. a sigh of relief lol. I need a space to work so I can tear my renesis down. Believe I have a control ring dying. Been smoking a bit during pulls, but its random which is confusing lol.
Your bedroom is an option….I’m building a turbo2 bridgeport 13b in my room as we speak. I did the disassembly and cleaning outside and brought the parts inside cleaned and ready to go. Once I get the rotor bearings pressed in, (they came in today) I’m putting it together.
Don't chunk the shaft. Make a lamp out of it or a night stand
I agreed, that's gonna be cool lamp or night stand.
It can also be a Decoration or display on the wall for commemorating what happened😂
Glad the damage was minimal. I'm sure you'll have it ripping again soon.
Not that bad, you were lucky with this one.
Nice thumbnail!
Big g clamp to hold housing down on front iron..
Make a slide puller to pull Dowell's..rx8 engine mount to block bolt is same thread as the dowel..
Cut the head off wind into a spare dowel, put one in other end and fix something to it as the puller
I think the 10mm stud debate is taught by people who don't know rotaries brake.
1/2" 12mm studs or extra dowels are the real fix. Rotaries don't need to be clamped harder they need to stop the twisting.
Any updates on the yellow RX8?
Going to the dyno next week.
cool work
Have you considered running an air oil separator instead of a catch can?
I have a pretty trick radium catch can coming for the car, I am excited to test it out
Don't run a bearing with copper showing mate..they are $50 haha.. especially with rx8 cranks and boost, they flex easier, check it for run out with a dial indicator..if its more than 0.10 bin it..
But please don't run any copper showing bearings..the copper will expand more, catch you crank and grab it again
I just got my bearings in the mail. 200 bucks for all four. Not a bad deal. Now is there a difference between auto and manual rx7/8 bearings?
@@subifudriftkings there is plenty of differences the part numbers correspond to a colour you will see on the bearing h bearings internal diameter is different I would measure your crankshaft lobe then measure the internal diameter of you bearing you are going to find the difference between the two will tell you which bearing you need. Basically the bearing with green or yellow on them have a bigger tolerance the auto bearing while it has the same internal diameter as some of the manual bearings only has one hole to disperse the oil but you can drill more holes that's easy don't have the tools to measure and your crankshaft is second-hand maybe look at red bearing nearest heaps of factors to do it if you're crank is slightly bent also they will make your bearings wear faster so that's why you need a bigger bearing clearance