The problem you ran into with that front screw was also an issue for my YCS1 Bonanza. If it had been in the manual, it would have saved both of us a lot of time. Great video. Thanks for posting.
Never mind the last comment about the oiler. The oiler deletes where a common practice with racers who had to pre-mix all their gas. The regulation of the oiler was controlled by the cable that went through the hole in the top of the case, feeding un-mixed gasoline with oil from the reservoir to the right of the seat. The blanked hole was the cable access from the carb to the oiler which regulated just how much oil was fed into the fuel. The oiler and the cables were never much of problem initially, but if left unserviced by the user, they could cause possible seizures of the engine. If your always pre-mixing your fuel, all the mechanisms that served the oiler can be deleted as well. Just didn't want to see you blow the engine sky high by starving the lubrication to the cylinder. Best wishes.
In initial start video,we thought vry same dat front sprocket is moving wid torque r engine vibrations,but it had more consistent rotation,vry Wonderful fix by cleaning clutchdiscs
Not a certified anything, but the two holes in the right half of the case serve the oiler for the engine (right in front of that stripped screw you found). The one hole feeds the hose from the oil reservoir, and the other a line that goes into the back of the head to inject oil through the reed valve into the cylinder head. Find which ones been deleted, as you'll want to return it back the way it was. It shouldn't be plugged at all. Its for two stroke operation and is necessary.
What type brand of oil do you use in your CT-2 ? Ive got one with 900 miles on it that the clutch is slipping real bad in 3rd & 4th gear. I used Torco 4 cycle10w-30 T4. but before that I was using Valoline 10-40 4 cycle oil both in the transmission case not the engine oiler. Any help would be appreciated .
what i did was i started the engine, lifted the back wheel up, held the clutch in, put it in first, and slammed the wheel down and the clutch broke free after a few attempts
I have the exact same bike that I am trying to get running after 30 or so years sitting idle. After cleaning the carb and doing other small maintenance work (replacing the hoses, cleaning the tank, oil change, etc.) I can get the bike running fine, but it will not shift into gear without it being in motion. Any ideas on where the problem may lie? I was thinking it could be an issue with the clutch, but I am unsure. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
@@dirtbikemonday4826 I'll take a look at the shift forks. I had first thought the cable may have rusted somewhere so we were working to replace that and found that that was not the problem. Thanks for the help!
Muddy Fences Thanks for the reply! I'm a first time rider trying to get a yamaha 74 dt125 running and your videos have been amazingly helpful! Getting that clutch cover off was not easy
5:37 never jam screwdrivers or lever whatever in between cases.........just use a rubber mallet or lever against something else apart from the gasket edges like for instance that tac drive area in your instance.
sorry i missed that bit , i see you used a scraper too break the seal........mmm .....mallet still works best in most cases, in hindsight it was the hidden screw that made removal dificult
jerry horbal If your clutch seems to work freely, it could be an issue with the shift lever shaft or pawl. It could be bent, or missing teeth. It makes sense that upshifting works, because you can upshift without using the clutch. You may need to pull the cover to see if something is loose, bent, or broken. Good luck.
+wyatt martin I have seen a ton of parts on ebay and other web sites, which you probably already knew. I am lucky enough to have a couple of old bike salvage yards near me that I can salvage parts from. I would check your area to see if any salvage yards exist. They are a gold mine. Good luck.
wyatt martin hey the none electric start at1 125s are a parts source for a CT1 175 they use the exact same bottom end and transmission and the case's are a match and many of the other parts from and At1 will work on a ct1
Good tip take a hammer with a proper fitting Phillips screw driver smack it kinda hard and remove spray some loosening before hand but 90% of the time it worked for me
no need in putting any gear oil on them, those plates are well soaked in oil by now. no need in over thinking this stuff. I have only been working on bikes for 43 years now and you did just fine. Yes, when I started working on bikes you could still buy Honda 305 Dreams off the showroom floor.
![[FINALE] มีคนคิดแค้นลักพาตัวเด็กไป🔪หญิงชราใช้ชีวิตตัวเองเข้าแลก👩🦳 #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C_BPHPoZFOg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video! This fixed my seized clutch on my CT1B.
Awesome. That's the best news I have had today.
The problem you ran into with that front screw was also an issue for my YCS1 Bonanza. If it had been in the manual, it would have saved both of us a lot of time. Great video. Thanks for posting.
Millbarge01 Sorry to hear about that. It sure created a mess. Thanks for the feedback.
I also have a YCS1 Bonanza and didnt notice it right away. Lucky me someone stripped the entire set of bolts on this engine!
Never mind the last comment about the oiler. The oiler deletes where a common practice with racers who had to pre-mix all their gas. The regulation of the oiler was controlled by the cable that went through the hole in the top of the case, feeding un-mixed gasoline with oil from the reservoir to the right of the seat. The blanked hole was the cable access from the carb to the oiler which regulated just how much oil was fed into the fuel. The oiler and the cables were never much of problem initially, but if left unserviced by the user, they could cause possible seizures of the engine. If your always pre-mixing your fuel, all the mechanisms that served the oiler can be deleted as well. Just didn't want to see you blow the engine sky high by starving the lubrication to the cylinder. Best wishes.
In initial start video,we thought vry same dat front sprocket is moving wid torque r engine vibrations,but it had more consistent rotation,vry Wonderful fix by cleaning clutchdiscs
That was definitely my least favorite part of the rebuild. I am glad is wasn't anything worse.
@@muddyfences5559 yes where is will dere will b a solution4sure,though sumtym bkums bit cumbersome
Not a certified anything, but the two holes in the right half of the case serve the oiler for the engine (right in front of that stripped screw you found). The one hole feeds the hose from the oil reservoir, and the other a line that goes into the back of the head to inject oil through the reed valve into the cylinder head. Find which ones been deleted, as you'll want to return it back the way it was. It shouldn't be plugged at all. Its for two stroke operation and is necessary.
Rebuild a clutch on a DT400 and it was clutch plate on the two outer sides not the steel plates.
Good tip when loosing or tightening clutch plate always go in a star pattern loosing and tightening dont do one all the way out its asking for trouble
What type brand of oil do you use in your CT-2 ? Ive got one with 900 miles on it that the clutch is slipping real bad in 3rd & 4th gear. I used Torco 4 cycle10w-30 T4. but before that I was using Valoline 10-40 4 cycle oil both in the transmission case not the engine oiler. Any help would be appreciated .
I'm not sure what I used, but I would definitely stay away from synthetic oils.
I’m also having shifting issues it’s an AG175 any tips
what i did was i started the engine, lifted the back wheel up, held the clutch in, put it in first, and slammed the wheel down and the clutch broke free after a few attempts
Nice! If I tried that, it would have driven through the garage door...haha.
What’s the torque specs on the pressure plate screws?
I have the exact same bike that I am trying to get running after 30 or so years sitting idle. After cleaning the carb and doing other small maintenance work (replacing the hoses, cleaning the tank, oil change, etc.) I can get the bike running fine, but it will not shift into gear without it being in motion. Any ideas on where the problem may lie? I was thinking it could be an issue with the clutch, but I am unsure. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
have you looked at the shift forks? if that didn't work you might have to pull out the shift Assembly
Also make sure the clutch handle, cable, and clutch rod move freely and are adjusted correctly.
@@dirtbikemonday4826 I'll take a look at the shift forks. I had first thought the cable may have rusted somewhere so we were working to replace that and found that that was not the problem. Thanks for the help!
Could you get replacement clutch disks instead of repairing them like you did?
You could, if you could find them and afford them. It can be tough to find new OEM parts for these old bikes.
Muddy Fences Thanks for the reply! I'm a first time rider trying to get a yamaha 74 dt125 running and your videos have been amazingly helpful! Getting that clutch cover off was not easy
That's great. These are good bikes, and pretty simple to work on.
5:37 never jam screwdrivers or lever whatever in between cases.........just use a rubber mallet or lever against something else apart from the gasket edges like for instance that tac drive area in your instance.
Martin Parker The screwdrivers aren't being used to lever the cover. They are used as spacers to keep the gap open as I work around the cover. Thanks
sorry i missed that bit , i see you used a scraper too break the seal........mmm .....mallet still works best in most cases, in hindsight it was the hidden screw that made removal dificult
Martin Parker That bolt was a nightmare. It prevented me from doing anything right. Thanks for the tip. Take care.
impact driver is essential
I have a1971 175, it up shifts fine but does not want to downshift, any ideas. Thanks for any help
jerry horbal If your clutch seems to work freely, it could be an issue with the shift lever shaft or pawl. It could be bent, or missing teeth. It makes sense that upshifting works, because you can upshift without using the clutch. You may need to pull the cover to see if something is loose, bent, or broken. Good luck.
Thanks, I will try that I have no idea what to look for but I will see if I can find something that looks wrong
Thanks, that was awesome...
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Hey i have a 1971 ct1 175, any places good for parts?
+wyatt martin I have seen a ton of parts on ebay and other web sites, which you probably already knew. I am lucky enough to have a couple of old bike salvage yards near me that I can salvage parts from. I would check your area to see if any salvage yards exist. They are a gold mine. Good luck.
wyatt martin hey the none electric start at1 125s are a parts source for a CT1 175 they use the exact same bottom end and transmission and the case's are a match and many of the other parts from and At1 will work on a ct1
Good tip take a hammer with a proper fitting Phillips screw driver smack it kinda hard and remove spray some loosening before hand but 90% of the time it worked for me
Oh, and don't forget to cross your fingers.
Just in seized my clutch the idiot you put Phillips on the clutch was the worst engineer ever
bfor trying to separate d cover first hit it verticaly to lossen d gaskets hold...
but dont hit too much
Not a bad tip. If it hadn't been for the hidden bolt, this would have been a much smoother job.
Muddy Fences
well yeah d one hidden on d front
@@muddyfences5559 It's not hidden. It's right there.
@@megankelly9438 I know, right there. Haha.
23:44 should really resoak those plates in gear oil before refitting ?
Martin Parker That couldn't hurt. I don't know if it's necessary on this bike.
no need in putting any gear oil on them, those plates are well soaked in oil by now. no need in over thinking this stuff. I have only been working on bikes for 43 years now and you did just fine. Yes, when I started working on bikes you could still buy Honda 305 Dreams off the showroom floor.
You put the clutch plates in the wrong order metal one goes first
Yet it works perfectly. Go figure.
@@muddyfences5559 yes sorry think I got it wrong is different to my 175 ct3