All Ice & Water Seal should be applied directly to the bare wood roof deck, not on top of the the roofing underlayment. The underlayment can be trimmed back 6" - 12" and the Ice & Water Seal can be placed from the top of the curb down onto the bare wood and then transition onto the underlayment. Using the method shown, any water that gets under the underlayment above the skylight will run down the roof under the Ice & Water Seal as well if installed this way. The underlayment can be trimmed back 6" - 12" and the Ice & Water Seal can be placed from the top of the curb down onto the bare wood and then transition onto the underlayment.
CSTAT I'm down in south east Florida, which has some if not The strictest code enforcement probably in the whole US from the hurricanes we get, But I said the same thing! From a logical standpoint, if you're going to use peel n stick, and apply it over synthetic, or felt etc. Then you're peel n stick is then only as strong/good/watertight, as your first layer of underlayment... But surprisingly nah they're trying to make it happen on all residential.. Because of how difficult and downright fckn expensive it is to repair a roof 20 yrs later u basically need to redeck your whole roof @ that point...🤨🤨
Skylight flashing looks good except I was always taught never to Nail so close to the curb of the skylight one nail on the outside will work even better near all the shingle that goes over it instead of nailing to the metal but everybody has their own way of doing things I live in Southern California where it never gets colder than 40° in the winter so I don’t know if I should be using that peel and stick instead I use30 pound felt underlayment and wrap it around the skylight curbs. Every piece of metal I use is minimum 26 gauge
Peel and stick is definitely better. That's why new construction always uses that sort of stuff for windows. 30lb felt tears so easily, wouldn't be able to get a tight fit at the curb without damaging the felt. Peel and stick doesn't tear easily when it's bent and it seals around the nail holes. Felt does too but only to a point.
Two nails on the roof deck at the top of your step flashing is going to be exposed to water will it migrates under the shingle weather from the corner of the flashing or the possible penetration point somewhere else on the roof and that is going to cause a leak . Continuous flashing Across the bottom with the nail 4 inches past each corner and continuous flashing on the side overlapping that nail with a nail high covered by the top flashing and keeping all nails minimum 3” away from the pan flashing is how i was taught
Good job, these are skills that are being forgotten. Corners are done correctly leaving kickers on back corners to push water away from corners and front corners are cut to divert water downward past corners. One problem I see is the placement of nails at bottom corners of front apron are where water normally travels under shingle. It might be overkill but I like 12" of flashing on roof on back flashing but that also depends on slope of roof.
I keep my nail closest to the edge of the step flash and only 1 nail thats all the step flash need if im flashin a skylight i nail the curb and not the deck plus i wrap my membrane over top and when i put my back pan on behind the curb i angle it a lil bit for water runoff juss givin a lil bit of advice
I never nail to the curb or at walls. Makes it a pain in the ass for the next roofers. Especially at walls, cause then they either have to nail the step flashing down and go overtop or take the siding off to take the nails out of the wall. Usually just put two nails in the top corner furthest out from the skylight. One typically doesn't give it enough pressure to hold it and keep it from just swinging outward. Then I don't nail within a few inches of that on the shingle.
VELUX sells a Flashing Kit for tile, they are not cheap but they work, not for a DIY person, professionals are the ones that know how to install these correctly.
Almost Right. Why would use Silver. And why so tight at the stepflashing. You made nice water diverters now where is a space for the water to Run? It's tight that's wrong.
One piece of continuous flashing will leak. If the horizontal (the on the deck) part of that one piece of flashing is placed UNDER the shingles on the deck, then what is stopping the water from hitting the vertical part of this continuous flashing and then simply following where this flashing is leading the water to go - directly UNDER the shingles = leak. If the on the deck part of that continuous piece of flashing is placed ON TOP OF the shingles on the deck, then what is stopping the water from simply blowing under the exposed edge of that flashing. The water is now under the flashing and reaches the skylight and runs under the shingles there = leak.
Wii U step flashing here in the Washington metropolitan area because our Winters have ice... When I moved in Florida for a couple of years the method is she meant paper cement galvanized L flashing in Step cement each shingle rounding off the corner
That's just not the way you do it. If you have a continuous metal L flashing along a wall, the water will eventually curl its way under/off the metal flashing and then run in between the shingle runs and underneath them, so it won't have anyway to go but to catch the top lip of a shingle and sit there. When you use step flashing, if water gets underneath the step flashing, it will run off the shingle underneath it, then continue run off that shingle, and because of the overlap, it will be running off overtop of the shingles as usual. Hope that makes sense.
@@ScoutSniper3124 my thoughts exactly. i'm looking at supplies right now for my tear-off this summer. i have 4 sky lights and i don't want to fork out $400 for those Velux kits. will probably just do something similar to this video (except i'll put the ice/water shield directly on the deck and not on top of the underlayment).
Eso esta mal lo de los clavos y El ice and water siempre tiene k ponerce en El plywood no sobre El papel Creo k ustedes son una compañia grande haci k agan un travajo bien no estafen Al cliente k pone su confiansa en ustedes por ser compañia grande
@@AnnasRevenge187 I don't mind doing steep roofs, but it sure does get annoying trying to keep the shingle in place with one hand and nailing it with the other while being almost vertical haha
Your approach is well, the first mistake is your wooden box it should have at least 8 inches in height because of the storms with lots of waterFor the rest your technique is good!
That is correct. I think we mentioned that in the video that this was only a demonstration at our training facility. Skyline Skylight manufacturer and others recommend a minimum height of 6". Thank you for your comment.
ok here we go again 1 hope the pop can metal was just for the mock up. on real house use thicker gage metal it will not dint an will hold up to strong wind. bottom an sides where done ok. but at the top you put a shingle down then metal over top of it hum. think about it water runs down hill. I know its a display but flashing goes under shingles on top I really don't think I need to explain that but I will be glad to if need be.
Clearly this is not the proper way to flash a skylight or curb.One should never nail step flashing that close to the bend and lastly, all self-adhering membrane is to be installed directly to the substrate, not over an underlayment. I did not watch the whole video since I saw in the first minute that this individual has no clue to what he is doing.
THOUSANDS and thousands of SKYLIGHTS. (True, a lot of VELUX with OK flashing kits), mostly Curbs with copper flashings (I made), with flat tempered UV glass sealed to top of curb. All this is a LITTLE bit different on a 120 degree roof, that might be 10 / 12 pitch. ..that bounces like a trampoline. Skylight install NOT for shinglers. Nor metal roof system installers.
Some good roofing technique. Some good craftsmanship. But not everything looked almost perfect. If you show a demo , everything should be perfect. The cuts on the metal is slightly sloppy. You should never see the laminate line.
![[FULL] Skylight Flashing Tutorial | Headwall, Step Flashing, Saddle Flashing, Counter Flashing](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cWpXa-PL-Pw/mqdefault.jpg)
![[FULL] Skylight Flashing Tutorial | Headwall, Step Flashing, Saddle Flashing, Counter Flashing](/img/tr.png)
I Appreciate the time and effort you put in to show us apprentices how to roof 🙌🏽😁😎
All Ice & Water Seal should be applied directly to the bare wood roof deck, not on top of the the roofing underlayment. The underlayment can be trimmed back 6" - 12" and the Ice & Water Seal can be placed from the top of the curb down onto the bare wood and then transition onto the underlayment. Using the method shown, any water that gets under the underlayment above the skylight will run down the roof under the Ice & Water Seal as well if installed this way. The underlayment can be trimmed back 6" - 12" and the Ice & Water Seal can be placed from the top of the curb down onto the bare wood and then transition onto the underlayment.
CSTAT I'm down in south east Florida, which has some if not The strictest code enforcement probably in the whole US from the hurricanes we get, But I said the same thing! From a logical standpoint, if you're going to use peel n stick, and apply it over synthetic, or felt etc. Then you're peel n stick is then only as strong/good/watertight, as your first layer of underlayment... But surprisingly nah they're trying to make it happen on all residential.. Because of how difficult and downright fckn expensive it is to repair a roof 20 yrs later u basically need to redeck your whole roof @ that point...🤨🤨
Is apron flashing aluminum or galvanized?
Bless your hardworking hands Sir
Skylight flashing looks good except I was always taught never to Nail so close to the curb of the skylight one nail on the outside will work even better near all the shingle that goes over it instead of nailing to the metal but everybody has their own way of doing things I live in Southern California where it never gets colder than 40° in the winter so I don’t know if I should be using that peel and stick instead I use30 pound felt underlayment and wrap it around the skylight curbs.
Every piece of metal I use is minimum 26 gauge
Peel and stick is definitely better. That's why new construction always uses that sort of stuff for windows. 30lb felt tears so easily, wouldn't be able to get a tight fit at the curb without damaging the felt. Peel and stick doesn't tear easily when it's bent and it seals around the nail holes. Felt does too but only to a point.
Lost me at nailing in to the skylight
Excellent video teacher 👏
Excellent video. Thank you.
Two nails on the roof deck at the top of your step flashing is going to be exposed to water will it migrates under the shingle weather from the corner of the flashing or the possible penetration point somewhere else on the roof and that is going to cause a leak . Continuous flashing Across the bottom with the nail 4 inches past each corner and continuous flashing on the side overlapping that nail with a nail high covered by the top flashing and keeping all nails minimum 3” away from the pan flashing is how i was taught
Dont you need a 1/4 inch gap between shingles and the wall for expansion?
Good job, these are skills that are being forgotten. Corners are done correctly leaving kickers on back corners to push water away from corners and front corners are cut to divert water downward past corners. One problem I see is the placement of nails at bottom corners of front apron are where water normally travels under shingle. It might be overkill but I like 12" of flashing on roof on back flashing but that also depends on slope of roof.
Is there any reason you aren't using lead .It can be bossed round corners no cutting no silicone or mastics required.
I keep my nail closest to the edge of the step flash and only 1 nail thats all the step flash need if im flashin a skylight i nail the curb and not the deck plus i wrap my membrane over top and when i put my back pan on behind the curb i angle it a lil bit for water runoff juss givin a lil bit of advice
I never nail to the curb or at walls. Makes it a pain in the ass for the next roofers. Especially at walls, cause then they either have to nail the step flashing down and go overtop or take the siding off to take the nails out of the wall. Usually just put two nails in the top corner furthest out from the skylight. One typically doesn't give it enough pressure to hold it and keep it from just swinging outward. Then I don't nail within a few inches of that on the shingle.
Do you have any idea how many skylights you flashed that developed leaks?? They need some better way to make skylights from leaking. Its 2018
VELUX max there own Skylight Flashing Kits that won't leak, plus they make really good skylights also.
It's a beautiful job!!!
Thankful🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸❤
R U using steel flashing-cladding in lieu of aluminum?"
Where can I get tin shingles?
What about fortiflash? I'm sure there is other names I don't know but we seal them extra with the fortiflash that comes in the velux kit.
Great video! Any idea how to apply the technique to a tile roof?
VELUX sells a Flashing Kit for tile, they are not cheap but they work, not for a DIY person, professionals are the ones that know how to install these correctly.
Almost Right. Why would use Silver. And why so tight at the stepflashing. You made nice water diverters now where is a space for the water to Run? It's tight that's wrong.
Self-adhesive waterproof membrane easy to construct,no need torch flame and spray costing
QUESTION... WHY CANT ONE PIECE OF CONTINUOUS FLASHING BE USED ON THE SIDES VERSUS THE STEP FLASHING?
Cuz that's how a fucking jack of all trades does it. Roofers do it the say it won't leak
One piece of continuous flashing will leak. If the horizontal (the on the deck) part of that one piece of flashing is placed UNDER the shingles on the deck, then what is stopping the water from hitting the vertical part of this continuous flashing and then simply following where this flashing is leading the water to go - directly UNDER the shingles = leak. If the on the deck part of that continuous piece of flashing is placed ON TOP OF the shingles on the deck, then what is stopping the water from simply blowing under the exposed edge of that flashing. The water is now under the flashing and reaches the skylight and runs under the shingles there = leak.
Wii U step flashing here in the Washington metropolitan area because our Winters have ice... When I moved in Florida for a couple of years the method is she meant paper cement galvanized L flashing in Step cement each shingle rounding off the corner
Read between the lines I don't edit
That's just not the way you do it. If you have a continuous metal L flashing along a wall, the water will eventually curl its way under/off the metal flashing and then run in between the shingle runs and underneath them, so it won't have anyway to go but to catch the top lip of a shingle and sit there.
When you use step flashing, if water gets underneath the step flashing, it will run off the shingle underneath it, then continue run off that shingle, and because of the overlap, it will be running off overtop of the shingles as usual. Hope that makes sense.
You put flashing on strip,so how is the heat gonna seal other shingles.not suppose to.step flashing should be above glue on shingle
The shingle/tar strip will glue down to the stepflashing, so no problem there
Thank you sir and God bless you for taking the time to make this video.
Outstanding!!! Truly masterful job! (I'm sorry for all the dumb-ass negative comments from absolutely idiots).
Why not use a VELUX Flashing Kit?
$100+ for a VELUX kit, versus under $10 for some flashing.... now multiple that times 3 or 4 skylights on a single job.
@@ScoutSniper3124 my thoughts exactly. i'm looking at supplies right now for my tear-off this summer. i have 4 sky lights and i don't want to fork out $400 for those Velux kits. will probably just do something similar to this video (except i'll put the ice/water shield directly on the deck and not on top of the underlayment).
To all you young roofers the tool he's using is called a hammer...
Hammer
Lololol
Actually the hammer is called an AJC hammer , which serves very minimum purpose.
I've eeen a lot of different hammers, but never one like that.
To all you boomers, the device you're using right now is a computer.
Computer.
That is why you set your step flashing first after you've weather guarded and dried the Roof Inn
Looks good but I prefer the 45 degree cuts over the water diverters
OK and that's why your jobs leak
So we put ice and water shield on the underlayment... k..
Exelente
I'm just wondering why he's nailing the shingles through the glue strip.
thats where the nails go on that brand of shingle
You're right. I must have been tired! Sorry!
Eso esta mal lo de los clavos y El ice and water siempre tiene k ponerce en El plywood no sobre El papel Creo k ustedes son una compañia grande haci k agan un travajo bien no estafen Al cliente k pone su confiansa en ustedes por ser compañia grande
Now thats how you do a skylight
Give RCC FLAT ROOF GLASS SKYLIGHT MAKING PROCEDURE.
😎
Why don’t you try doing that on a house that 12/12 steep.
Steep is funner not harder
@@AnnasRevenge187 I don't mind doing steep roofs, but it sure does get annoying trying to keep the shingle in place with one hand and nailing it with the other while being almost vertical haha
Your approach is well, the first mistake is your wooden box it should have at least 8 inches in height because of the storms with lots of waterFor the rest your technique is good!
That is correct. I think we mentioned that in the video that this was only a demonstration at our training facility. Skyline Skylight manufacturer and others recommend a minimum height of 6". Thank you for your comment.
DEPENDS WHAT REGION YOURE IN
@@Bonehead2024 tu callate
I have a better way to flash the corners
You left out too many little details and your hands were hiding what you did show!
ok here we go again 1 hope the pop can metal was just for the mock up. on real house use thicker gage metal it will not dint an will hold up to strong wind. bottom an sides where done ok. but at the top you put a shingle down then metal over top of it hum. think about it water runs down hill. I know its a display but flashing goes under shingles on top I really don't think I need to explain that but I will be glad to if need be.
The next shingle will go over back flashing he just didn't show that in video
not watertight job here
Where did he go wrong?
Clearly this is not the proper way to flash a skylight or curb.One should never nail step flashing that close to the bend and lastly, all self-adhering membrane is to be installed directly to the substrate, not over an underlayment. I did not watch the whole video since I saw in the first minute that this individual has no clue to what he is doing.
THOUSANDS and thousands of SKYLIGHTS. (True, a lot of VELUX with OK flashing kits), mostly Curbs with copper flashings (I made), with flat tempered UV glass sealed to top of curb. All this is a LITTLE bit different on a 120 degree roof, that might be 10 / 12 pitch. ..that bounces like a trampoline. Skylight install NOT for shinglers. Nor metal roof system installers.
Some good roofing technique.
Some good craftsmanship.
But not everything looked almost perfect.
If you show a demo , everything should be perfect.
The cuts on the metal is slightly sloppy.
You should never see the laminate line.
the thickness of the metal is thin AF
Mașini.de.vinzare
doesnt look like that stuff sticks for shit lol
weird ass background music...
Bad
my way is a lot better
Bush league