Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Ive spent much time and research on this. Theres a difference between cards printed at the Japanese factory and the north American one. Japan cards weigh around 1.61 show less light through them and have a much glossier feel.
Some of pre-release kits have separate printing from the main set. My Theros beyond death and Strixheaven pre-relase boosters had darker ink than the main set
Allow me, the Japanese cards are stickers. Go rip a collector booster common foil and you will see. Just a sticker slapped onto a stock mtg backed card. The Japanese cards aren't better. They're completely different. No print company appears to be able to do consistent quality on cards while using ink.
Like some others already said: The first one at ~3:50 is probably no fake due to printing quality. The rosette pattern is right, the flat edges of the outline of the black dot are there, and so on. I own several cards with only 3 red dots, that are definitely no fake...
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
For the "Green Dot Test"...I've noticed that some cards that I've open packs for have "3 Red Dots" instead of the "4 Red Dots", so the first fake green dot test (~ 3:50) might have been real?
I came to say the same thing. I feel like the picture on the right at 3:49 is real. I've seen this sort of pattern on real cards before. The 4th red dot may even be visible (if very slight).
@@tumultuoustempus I was actually thinking the same thing, some cards don't even show the red dots at all.. but the rest checks out, solid black contour lines, two straight cuts, the position of the 'volcano' shaped yellow, the 8 dots over the volcano, the clear sausage figure.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Card at 3:50 is almost certainly not fake. And is bad information. The red dot test is not a reliable test. Everything about that green dot is correct.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
The section at 3:50 about the 4 Red L dots is not correct. If it has the 4 red L dots, it’s definitely real (unless it’s a reback) but many sets are missing the 4 red L dots and are very real, including your first example which you say is fake, it is not fake it is 100% real. The second ‘fake’ example is correctly attributed as fake but you really need to correct that part of the video.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
The info in this video is not entirely true. The “L” can be partially missing or missing completely. If there is a problem in the magenta printing on a back sheet, the “L” might not be printed correctly. Never label a card fake solely due to one irregular feature. When you suspect a card to be fake, compare it to other cards you own from the same set, language and printing facility. I’d hate to see someone tossing out their alt 4th’s, jumpstart staples, or any misprints due to false information they got from a source that should be reliable (like 3for1T). Then again, someone owning something special, probably knows better than this.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Your first example of the green dot test appears to show two legit cards. The "4 red dots in an L" is more of a commonality than a hard and fast rule. The border of the green dot is far more accurate, and that looks like a real card.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
About the weight test: Between Urzas block era and stronghold there is cardstock that can be up to 1.85 gram and is real so saying that everything beyond 1.80 grams is fake is not true. The card stock of these cards will show tin vertical lines in the light test. Btw japanese card stock of for example Battlebond set will be below 1.7 grams. As for the light test: If your copy is japanese card stock it will automatically fail the comparison compared to non japanese card stock. I find this video quite misleading that it does not mention the important nuances. If you dont believe me compare battlebond with reprints of battlebond cards of non japanese card stock and you will see. I also need to shake my head about the showcased black light test. If it does not reflect any black light its an indicator (if not japanese card stock) but reflecting black light slightly different does not tell ANYTHING. LMAO the first greendot comparison (3:51) shows literally two real cards. This video is among the worst for identifying fakes that i have seen so far.
the "print layer" test is what led me to suspect that my promo old border Bolas's Citadel was fake, but turns out they're all like this. unfortunately wotc printing is just all over the place nowadays. also for the green dot test it's important to realize that the back might have been sourced from a real card while the front was changed.
@@ColossusCo Just dismissing it without thinking isn't them "not knowing what they are talking about," The Misprint Guy years ago had obtained an entire counterfeit BOOSTER BOX, so yeah an arbitrary price point doesn't necessarily stop something from being faked.
@@ColossusCo You disagree =/= "he doesn't know what he's talking about," PROVING it does (which again, just aserting it's false without argument or even consideration as to what he is saying isn't).
The most important thing is and always stays the comparison to a real card, either the same of if you have, or at least of the same set. Also note, foils obviously weigh more due to the added foil. Modern cards (M15 and newer) also have the holo stamp at the bottom to check, again with the magnifying glass if you know what to look for.
This is without a doubt, the very best video on this subject I’ve seen. I already feel confident in spotting the difference, and it took less than 5 minutes to teach these methods.
As others have already mentioned, the first "fake" dot, missing _1_ of those 4 (least important) red "L" dots actually shows a real green dot... These dots are around the 1-2 percent halftone mark and there's plenty of legit reasons, one or _all_ of these tiny dots might be missing, caused bu various issues _before_ and during print! If the rest of the green dot composition is correct = card back is authentic.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Good, but I wonder if now that counterfeiters know, that they'll try to copy these methods/techniques on their cards. Will it be a see-saw battle, until a perfect forgery is made? If you have a real MTG card, and don't want to play with it, get it graded/rated inside a plastic case.
Too bad new cards made in japen are ticker, light test doesnt go through, and feel like plastic not paper, anf they are original from collectors boxes ..
"the print quality is tricky because after 30 years WOTC still can't get a single company to do a decent job except for Japan which people will one day realize are just stickers and not ink."
I’ve been buying tons of Chinese proxies that are extremely hard even for me to tell, I will never sell or trade them though, I hope more people get educated on these topics! I’ve saved my family literally thousands of dollars by buying proxies.
you could save even more by printing them locally, it would also allow you to use modified art to express yourself AND avoid any temptation/mistake of selling them in the future
@@voltcorp Playing with the proxies that don’t look real just don’t give me enjoyment, then people know they aren’t real. If your moral standards put into question the ability to retain or sell fakes, you probably shouldn’t buy them.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Ive spent much time and research on this. Theres a difference between cards printed at the Japanese factory and the north American one. Japan cards weigh around 1.61 show less light through them and have a much glossier feel.
Some of pre-release kits have separate printing from the main set. My Theros beyond death and Strixheaven pre-relase boosters had darker ink than the main set
Japanese print runs also use black core paper, compared to the white core paper for EU and US print runs.
@@Raijimura yes and i believe thats why less light shows through
Allow me, the Japanese cards are stickers. Go rip a collector booster common foil and you will see. Just a sticker slapped onto a stock mtg backed card. The Japanese cards aren't better. They're completely different. No print company appears to be able to do consistent quality on cards while using ink.
@@anthonycatania5613 If they were just a sticker they would fail the fold test everytime and they dont.
Like some others already said:
The first one at ~3:50 is probably no fake due to printing quality. The rosette pattern is right, the flat edges of the outline of the black dot are there, and so on. I own several cards with only 3 red dots, that are definitely no fake...
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Was just gonna write that would 100% have fooled me...
For the "Green Dot Test"...I've noticed that some cards that I've open packs for have "3 Red Dots" instead of the "4 Red Dots", so the first fake green dot test (~ 3:50) might have been real?
I came to say the same thing. I feel like the picture on the right at 3:49 is real. I've seen this sort of pattern on real cards before. The 4th red dot may even be visible (if very slight).
@@tumultuoustempus I was actually thinking the same thing, some cards don't even show the red dots at all.. but the rest checks out, solid black contour lines, two straight cuts, the position of the 'volcano' shaped yellow, the 8 dots over the volcano, the clear sausage figure.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
If the card bends and curls, it's an original. Fake magic cards are way higher quality than actual WOTC product.
Why would you sell something higher quality at a lower price? 😂 are you okay? 😅
caus its easier and safer than banknotes
Card at 3:50 is almost certainly not fake. And is bad information. The red dot test is not a reliable test. Everything about that green dot is correct.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
The section at 3:50 about the 4 Red L dots is not correct. If it has the 4 red L dots, it’s definitely real (unless it’s a reback) but many sets are missing the 4 red L dots and are very real, including your first example which you say is fake, it is not fake it is 100% real. The second ‘fake’ example is correctly attributed as fake but you really need to correct that part of the video.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
The info in this video is not entirely true. The “L” can be partially missing or missing completely. If there is a problem in the magenta printing on a back sheet, the “L” might not be printed correctly.
Never label a card fake solely due to one irregular feature. When you suspect a card to be fake, compare it to other cards you own from the same set, language and printing facility.
I’d hate to see someone tossing out their alt 4th’s, jumpstart staples, or any misprints due to false information they got from a source that should be reliable (like 3for1T). Then again, someone owning something special, probably knows better than this.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Your first example of the green dot test appears to show two legit cards. The "4 red dots in an L" is more of a commonality than a hard and fast rule. The border of the green dot is far more accurate, and that looks like a real card.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
About the weight test: Between Urzas block era and stronghold there is cardstock that can be up to 1.85 gram and is real so saying that everything beyond 1.80 grams is fake is not true. The card stock of these cards will show tin vertical lines in the light test. Btw japanese card stock of for example Battlebond set will be below 1.7 grams.
As for the light test: If your copy is japanese card stock it will automatically fail the comparison compared to non japanese card stock. I find this video quite misleading that it does not mention the important nuances. If you dont believe me compare battlebond with reprints of battlebond cards of non japanese card stock and you will see. I also need to shake my head about the showcased black light test. If it does not reflect any black light its an indicator (if not japanese card stock) but reflecting black light slightly different does not tell ANYTHING.
LMAO the first greendot comparison (3:51) shows literally two real cards. This video is among the worst for identifying fakes that i have seen so far.
the "print layer" test is what led me to suspect that my promo old border Bolas's Citadel was fake, but turns out they're all like this.
unfortunately wotc printing is just all over the place nowadays.
also for the green dot test it's important to realize that the back might have been sourced from a real card while the front was changed.
Why would anyone fake a $3 card
@@ColossusCo Fake one $40-100 card, Sell One, Fake 50 $3 Cards, Sell in Bulk? Which ones going to look less suspicious to have a lot of?
@@Saiden31 you have no clue what you are talking about lmao
@@ColossusCo Just dismissing it without thinking isn't them "not knowing what they are talking about," The Misprint Guy years ago had obtained an entire counterfeit BOOSTER BOX, so yeah an arbitrary price point doesn't necessarily stop something from being faked.
@@ColossusCo You disagree =/= "he doesn't know what he's talking about," PROVING it does (which again, just aserting it's false without argument or even consideration as to what he is saying isn't).
The most important thing is and always stays the comparison to a real card, either the same of if you have, or at least of the same set. Also note, foils obviously weigh more due to the added foil.
Modern cards (M15 and newer) also have the holo stamp at the bottom to check, again with the magnifying glass if you know what to look for.
This is without a doubt, the very best video on this subject I’ve seen. I already feel confident in spotting the difference, and it took less than 5 minutes to teach these methods.
Happy this helped, and thank you for the kind words!
As others have already mentioned, the first "fake" dot, missing _1_ of those 4 (least important) red "L" dots actually shows a real green dot...
These dots are around the 1-2 percent halftone mark and there's plenty of legit reasons, one or _all_ of these tiny dots might be missing, caused bu various issues _before_ and during print!
If the rest of the green dot composition is correct = card back is authentic.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
I am wondering does the light test show somewhat different results with foil cards? The card appears to be a little less tranlucent.
Card at 3:50 is real, please fix your video.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
Good, but I wonder if now that counterfeiters know, that they'll try to copy these methods/techniques on their cards. Will it be a see-saw battle, until a perfect forgery is made? If you have a real MTG card, and don't want to play with it, get it graded/rated inside a plastic case.
This is why reprints are needed since word of mouth isn’t proof of anything.
Sounds good on paper… WOTC QC has been garbage since the 90s. What they tell the psa doesn’t check out if you have opened enough packs, you know.
Too bad new cards made in japen are ticker, light test doesnt go through, and feel like plastic not paper, anf they are original from collectors boxes ..
Nice presentation.
what if my card is good in green dot test but fake in light test ?
Call the Pinkertons, obviously.
Great explanation.
i jist rip test all my cards, and duck tape them back together
Most people don’t know this but taping your cards together actually unlocks their extra ability
@Gabriel Brennan no I'm serious. real magic cards have a blue adhesive in the middle.
Thanks for making this video
You're welcome. Glad you enjoy it.
"the print quality is tricky because after 30 years WOTC still can't get a single company to do a decent job except for Japan which people will one day realize are just stickers and not ink."
I’ve been buying tons of Chinese proxies that are extremely hard even for me to tell, I will never sell or trade them though, I hope more people get educated on these topics!
I’ve saved my family literally thousands of dollars by buying proxies.
you could save even more by printing them locally, it would also allow you to use modified art to express yourself AND avoid any temptation/mistake of selling them in the future
@@voltcorp You also don't support an economy-industry that's intentionally trying to scam the market. MPC is the way to go.
How did you save thousands of dolars by buying piece of useless cardboard?
@@greenheart5334 I didn’t buy the expensive version, obviously. $2.60 foil mana Crypts that are exactly like the real ones.
@@voltcorp Playing with the proxies that don’t look real just don’t give me enjoyment, then people know they aren’t real. If your moral standards put into question the ability to retain or sell fakes, you probably shouldn’t buy them.
That first fake at the green dot test (~ 3:50 ) should be quite convincing without magnification.
Thank you for the many comments regarding a Green Dot Test example. In the comparison at minute 3:50 of the video, it looks very much like we made a mistake and may be calling a card that could be authentic a “fake”. As mentioned on various occasions in the video it is of utmost importance to always apply more than one test, use a known authentic card for comparison and if in doubt consult with an expert on the topic.
fake magic cards are better
green dot test is all you really need
Feedback. The real and fake side keep switching throught the video. Would be better if it was consistent all throughout
who cares? this is all about playing and having fun