BUiLDiNG the WPL C34 KM (Metal Edition) Step 7: Front Axle!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มี.ค. 2020
- Welcome to the step-by-step-build of the WPL C-34KM (Metal Edition Kit) 4WD RC Car/Truck with the highly detailed Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 Hard Body. No rush, no waffling, no time lapse, (almost) no music ... just pure and raw RC Car building ... in 4K.
Note to Step 7: To be fair, the problem with the axle isn't that bad. It's just a matter of too tight a gear mesh and working on a solution. Sadly, I became too focused on the ring gear, trying to move it to the right. After that effort failed to solve the problem, I turned my attention to the pinion gear and 'solved' the problem with not tightening the cover too much. A better solution would be too shim the whole cover, moving the pinion back, creating a permanent good mesh. I might do that later.
The WPL C-34KM was kindly provided by Banggood, free for review and tests. You can check out prices and specifications with these (non-affiliate!) links:
WPL C-34KM (Metal Edition Kit/DIY):
www.banggood.com/WPL-C34KM-11...
WPL C-34 Standard Kit/DIY:
www.banggood.com/WPL-C34-116-...
WPL C-34 RTR/Ready to Run:
www.banggood.com/WPL-C34-116-...
The links where provided by Banggood. I receive no money/pay/commission.
Thank you for watching!
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Notes (for those who care):
- This series is not intended as 'high entertainment' or as a 'bullet-proof build guide'. Just my personal build including all mistakes and mishaps.
- I hope that people will join the build and especially share their experiences here with their current or past build and the individual steps of the WPL C-34KM. If you notice any mistakes, wrong screws or have any tips please share in the comment section! - With the minimal instructions provided by WPL, it is my hope that somebody, including me, will benefit from these videos and the comments from you!
- I might be forcing the parts too hard or/and in the wrong order. Please be more careful with your own kit or the plastic parts might break during assembly.
- If you want to paint the body - the easiest way is to paint the parts (exterior as well as interior) individually before the assembly. Also: Small amounts of glue could secure some of the smaller parts on the body better. I left mine un-glued, so I always can go back and easily disassemble the body again (if I want to paint it).
- The raw video form with minimal editing/music and no time lapse is very intentional. Let's just build, without hurrying along and with enough time for you to see what is going on, make up your own mind about the kit, maybe join in on the build ... or just enjoy some pure RC Car building with no endless talking (trust me, I have been known for that). Remember, you can always pause/rewind the video to inspect the parts used more closely. Also, if it get's too quiet, please feel free to put on your own favorite music while watching.
- I have divided the series into the 12 steps according to the official manual, so it will be easy for you to find the exact steps you are interested in. If there is any interest, I will also include the necessary steps not included in the manual (wheel weights, tires, electronics).
- Let me know in the comment section what you think of this build video format. First time I've tried it. I just needed to try it out. For previous build video series with loads of music, editing and time lapse - check out the video-lists and playlists in my channel. For endless RC talks and RC waffling, check out my secondary channel.
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Music (TH-cam Audio Library):
'Web Weaver's Dance' by Asher Fulero
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#NordicRCVisions Statement:
This video features homemade footage of my own #RCCar #WPLC34 send to me personally for review and tests by #Banggood. All rights reserved.
All RC cars and RC parts in this video are hobby-grade and intended for ages +14 years. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I had the same problem, solving is simple, you have to mount the driveshaft in order to keep the pinion to move freely against the crown. No filing needed. It fact, filing the housing is bad, the crown will move sideways eventually.
Yeah, as shown in the video series, I did discover the solution, adding a spacer.
I had to shim the ring gear with 2 shims to take the side to side play out and keep it from rubbing the axle housing. I also had to shim the input cover with some gasket paper for the rear axle to get a good mesh. Had to do the same with my front axle...but used a gasket made of that flexible plastic 3 ring binder material. The gasket paper was too thick for the front axle. They are super smooth now! I actually enjoy the fact that these kits require some custom tinkering and dont just slap together. Makes the build more fun and involving in my opinion.
Sounds like some good solutions and better than mine. Super cool. Thanks for sharing the tip, Ben.
And thank you, I'm an old RC guy and I have to say this front axle is the biggest challenge I've ever seen. Can't tell you how many times I assembled and disassembled. Finally I got it turning smooth as silk more thanks to you.
Thank you for watching, Edward! Yeah, it puzzled me too. I think I got a tip from a TH-cam video as well to figure it out ☺️
If you're building 1/1 scale axles (on a real car or truck), the same considerations come into play. Two settings that need to be done/measured correctly to ensure proper gear setup and long gear life. These settings are:
* Pinion depth (how close the pinion is to the ring gear)
* Backlash (how close the ring gear is to the pinion).
I had to chuckle at 5:43 but knew you would overcome the problem so when I get this kit you will keep me from throwing the stupid axle against the wall lol... really enjoying this series 👍
Bill C Ha ha, yeah, after filing and filing with zero results, I needed a break. It helped 😅 Changed the focus from the ring gear to the pinion gear, and 10 minutes later it was solved. Wish they would just have written ‘do not tighten the cover all the way’. Could have saved dummies like me from a lot of hazzle 😅 Hope this video saves other builders ☺️ Thanks a lot for watching and your comment, Bill
Cardboard between the black cover and the main housing before you screw the red cover on it😆😆. Had no problem on my km kit since i bought it after the realesed
Great build,nice video
Thanks, bro!
Fantastic build Video mate, it looks Really good, great quality 👍😎😍👍
Thanks a lot, Tony!
That gift was a nightmare.
Wish I had discovered the solution a bit sooner. Could have saved a lot of time m, he he ☺️ Thanks a lot for watching, Brad.
Nice job Mikael! The metal axles really look great! Have a great week and stay safe buddy! 👍
Thanks, Charlie! Once I figured it out it seems to be smooth 🙂
Stay safe too, Charlie. Best to you and your family.
Nice and metally! 😁👍
Hi, Steve. Yeah, took some time for me to get it to work, but hopefully it will be fine now ☺️
Looks great. Man I really needs to get my hands on a WPL C14 / C24 or the C34 truck. Only downside now is that the shipping from China is virtaully non exisiting. Great video!
Thanks, bro! It is? Uhh. I can imagine. Hope things will clear up. Ther are great little trucks.
The axle looks pretty nice
Void X RC Thanks for watching, Michael!
Amazing nice!!
Thanks a lot for watching!
@@NordicRC You are very welcome!!
Bridge (pumpkin) gaskets! Are the solution....
Yeah!
I'm glad mine came with absolutely no instructions!
Huh? Absolutely no instructions? Weird.
@@NordicRC yep. So your video is gonna get a bunch of views from me alone. 😂
Thanks for posting it! 👍🏽
Perfeito,,,,,,,,,,
Hi, nice video.
I had the same issue and the problem is that there is no clearance between the input gear and the differential gear, if you put a paper gasket between the axle cover and the differential you gain the clearance you need, about 0,5mm.
Yeah, I used some tape (see the step with the next axle)
all you need is to move front gear on shaft further from rear gear
My friend, you'll be so happy when you will build a new Tamiya car with its detailed instructions... 'hope everything's good for you and your family. it's hard to take it here, it seems my family is starting to get the virus. Protect yourself, Mikael, protect your family, that thing is a piece of shit. Gud holder dig.
Yeah, definitly looking forward for the next Tamiya build ☺️ Hope you will be good too, my friend. A lot of people will catch the virus, but a lot of people will be able to recover from it too. Don’t lose hope. Stay as safe as possible.
Do you like those axles? Have you seen the other full titanium ones they look a little more bulky and heavier. I think the weight would help this thing crawl better. Do these perform well and do you think the weight helped or would you prefer something that's heavier ?
Not sure of I like these. The paint is very thick and the parts do not go well together. And coupled with the wheel weights for this kit, the truck is getting too heavy for the little motor.
Like 😀👍
Manufalket Thanks, bro!
Hey bro,That looked like a chore for sure... But I noticed something odd in the video. But it looks like the steering arms are on the wrong way. The red diff cover the front so shouldn't the arm face back? Also like on a friend's real truck of mine a old International Harvester 4x4 try not to over tighten the diff cover it can create rubbing on the diff housing which will cause bidding and it to warp. Hope you and the family are good bro have a great night :)
Hi Chris. Yeah, started focusing on the wrong gear by chance. If I had focused on the pinion it would have taken up less of my time 😅 These types of front axles actually have the steering linkage in the front, so the uprights should be facing forwards. I remember the first of these types I build, finding it very weird. But I have also seen guys that are used to these, finding the double wishbone etc systems very weird. About the diff cover it’s a bit hard to see here in the video. When planning this build video series and the ‘silent format’ I didn’t think of encountering things that deserved an explanation. I was so close providing some explanatory text in the vid. Well, what is hard to see is that it’s not a matter of over-tightening the diff cover, but a matter of tightening them. When tightening the axle cover normally the mesh becomes too tight. So in the beginning I didn’t think of that as a problem (as I am used to tightening covers properly so dirt etc has a hard time getting inside). What is hard to see in the end of the video, is that the screws aren’t tightened all the way. There is actually a little gap between the cover and the screw heads. So it’s more like a ‘don’t tighten the screws’ than ‘don’t over-tighten the screws’. Something I have never tried before with my Tamiya builds, so I was unable to imagine it in the beginning 😁☺️ But it seems to work now. After filming/building this I saw other guys actually shimming the rear black cover, moving the pinion backwards a bit, and allowing the cover to be tightened normally.
Hope you and your family are doing good in these times, Chris. Wish you the best 🙂
Hi it looks like you could put the ball bearings and staring.
That axle is why I would never buy one. I did have a earlier plastic kit I put some of there upgrade parts in it. But after so many issues it ended up in the bin.
Bas Boy RC Ha ha, yeah, this is definitely not Tamiya standards 😅 After this I am looking forward building a Tamiya with real instructions and parts that fit 😅 Thanks a lot for watching, Mal.
Is the whole disk made out of metal be outside pumpkin and everything?
Yeah, everything is metal (with a thick layer of paint), except for the top-mount (can’t remember the correct English term) where the links will be mounted.
Its just a piece of cardboard between the black cover and the axle housing.. i cant imagine why are you piling those parts😆😆😆
I've had this problem. It really is a case of not tightening the axle cover too much. Also, another problem could be not positioning the bearings correctly and the steering joints on the axle correctly so that the housing doesn't fit on correctly. It happened to my MN99 metal upgrade axle housing and I filed the parts where the bearings would rest thus making it all too loose and the axle slips with the two gears not meshing correctly. I have since sorted the problem out by fitting the wheel joints onto the axle correctly but also by habing to buy another set of metal axle housings. It's really down to how one positions parts and how you loosen the (red) axle cover screws once everything is fitted together.
I wish I had talked to you before assembling this 🙂 I became too focused on the ring gear immediately (trying to move it to the one side as much as possible to make room for a mesh), filing, and too focused on wanting the axle cover to be a tight correct fit. But yes, after a break, I had to realize it was just a matter of not tightening the cover all the way 😅 Luckily I was very focused too on fitting the universal axles properly, as I remember seeing a video pointing out that problem, but yeah, wish I had seen a video about the axle cover too, he he. Super you got yours fixed again. Pure luck for me, my unnessacary filing at the beginning isn’t a problem. Maybe it will weaken the Pumpkin a bit, but I think it will be fine. Thanks a lot for the comment and for watching, bro.
@@NordicRC No worries. What's "Pumpkin?"
Ahh, isn’t it called that in English? The ‘pumpkin house’ of the axle? (The middle with the gears and gear cover)? Hmm, maybe not ...
@@NordicRC Haven't a clue .
instruction pls pdf